Washington County Cooperative Extension Service
HORTICULTURE March 2019 Volume 15
Incorporating Edible Plants into the Landscape
Inside this issue:
A nice landscape of a few trees and shrubs, some flowers and well-tended turf has value. Our landscapes help define our outdoor living space, provide shade and help screen unwanted views. A well-maintained landscape may add as much as 5 to 10 perStarting Seeds Indoors 3 cent to the value of our property. But landscapes can provide another resource that we don’t often consider–food. What if it were possible to introduce edible plants to your Save The Date 3 landscape? Black Gum 4 Growing your own food has some obvious benefits such as fresh and flavorful fruits and vegetaSpring Vegetable Garden 5 bles. Many food-producing plants can fill the roles that we usually assign to other plants in our landMarch Starts Mowing 5 scape. Spring Vegetable 5 Trellised blackberries, for example, make a great hedge or screen. Using thorny types can also To Do’s March 6 provide some measure of security. Many retain some of their leaves throughout the winter to provide some March Starts Mowing 6 screening. Trellising the blackberries will help define the planting Wheelbarrow Calendar 7 and promote more upright growth. The time needed Recipe Of The Month 8 to prune and thin blackberries is comparable to many other hedge-type plantings. Also, blackberries have relatively few problem insects or diseases. In flower beds, you can plant fancy-leafed lettuce in early spring. Lettuce is finished by mid-May, just around the time you are adding annual flowers. In summer, try a few rainbow chard plants, colored peppers and purple or variegated basil. All are relatively pest free and are a good contrast to flowering annuals and perennials. Also, consider containers. Cherry tomatoes grow well in hanging baskets where vines are allowed to droop over the edge of the pot. Several herbs are well suitFollow Us at ed to containers and provide savory flavoring for your salads and meals. The next time you are looking to add plants to your landscape, don’t overlook Washington County herbs and food producing plants. Some may provide what you need and more. Starting Seeds Indoors
2
Extension Service
Submitted by Rick Durham, Horticulture Specialist, University of Kentucky
Keys To Starting Seeds Indoors Have you been looking through the ton of seed catalogs that have been popping up in your mail box since late fall? Do you look through them and make notes about varieties you want and admire the new exotic looking plants? Do you think, oh, I can just buy one or two of those this spring at the garden center? Think back to last spring, were you disappointed when you went to buy those new and different varieties and the garden center had the same old petunias, geraniums, zinnias, and whatever else you can think of? I have got the answer for you. Start your own plants at home. You can save money and get the varieties you want and it’s really not that hard. You simply need to follow a few simple rules and have patience and a nurturing attitude. I am going to give you ten tips to starting plants at home.
(1.) Buy quality seed from a reputable dealer. Look on the back of the packets of seeds, somewhere usually at the bottom it will have a packed by date. It should have the current years date which would be 2007 for this years growing season. If you save seeds or have seeds from previous years, storage is the key to longevity. Many seeds can be viable for up to 10 years if stored properly. Contrary to popular belief the freezer is not he best place to store seeds. Actually, the refrigerator is the best place. Seeds need a cool (not cold) dark place with low humidity. If you have old seed it’s easy to do a germination test. Simply dampen a paper towel, place ten seeds on the towel, fold it and put it in a zip lock bag and place it on the top of the refrigerator. Seeds should sprout in a few days. Count the number that sprouted, if 6 out of ten germinated then you have a 60% viability rate and you should increase the number of seeds you sow accordingly. (2.) Only use a high quality germination mix. Ideally it should be fine and not clumpy or hard. This is one area where cheaper is not better. Many of the name brands such as jiffy mix etc. are good enough. If you have larger seeds such as tomato the jiffy pellets work great. (3.) It’s always a good idea to use wide flat containers for seed starting. It reduces the amount of soil you will have to use and it will be a little more forgiving if you over water. Regular trays you buy plants in are fine but be sure to wash them with a 10% bleach solution and rinse them well before using. Peat pellets will relieve some Keys of the issues with containers but they will dry out much faster. (4.) Firm seeds in after sowing. It is imperative that they make good contact with the soil. Dry pockets can dry out newly emerged roots quickly thus killing a seedling before it really gets started. Be sure to mist them in well. Maintain moisture but be sure not to have the media dry or soggy, just moist. (5.) Cover trays with plastic wrap or a humidity dome sold at a large department store, you can guess which one. Keep in mind not to put these in direct sun and don’t make it air tight. With a cover the sun can heat up the flat too much and if the wrap is sealed down it can lock in too much moisture. Just leave the corner unsealed or if you are using a humidity dome turn it to one side or the other to allow some air exchange. (6.) Keep seed warm to encourage germination. The top of the refrigerator is a good place but remember the plants will stretch quickly upon germination, so just as soon as you see one starting to come up move the flat to light. Another way to warm the flat is to place it on a heating mat for germinating. There are several to choose from but the cheapest one is for one flat and keeps the temperature of the flat around 70 degrees which is adequate for most seeds. Remember if you are going to place your flats somewhere to keep them warmer than the
Keys To Starting Seeds Indoors actual temperature they will dry out faster than they would otherwise. (7.) The most important aspect of starting seeds indoors is light. Most people get disgusted with starting seeds indoors because their plants stretch from lack of adequate lighting. Once your plants germinate they are going to need the sunniest window you can provide and that may not be enough. You can provide additional light by hanging a fluorescent light or grow tube over them to increase wave length. Using grow lights is another way to grow plants if you don’t have adequate window space or exposure. The lights should be hung as close to the plants as possible without touching them. Usually 14-16 hours a day is adequate but it won’t hurt if you leave them on all the time. Plants don’t need to sleep. (8.) Another problem many people have are spindly or weak plants. While this usually is from lack of light there are a few things you can do to strength the plants. If you are growing in a window turn the plants a quarter turn each day to keep them upright. Rub your hands across the tops of the plants a couple of times per week. This will simulate wind and cause the stems to become more rigid and less likely to stretch as much. You should do this even if you are growing under grow lights. (9.) Feed your plants. Proper nutrition is key to developing good transplants. Most seed starting mixes contain a small amount of fertilize to get the plants started but its not enough to really get them growing well. Once the first set of true leaves emerges its time to give them half strength water soluble fertilize on a once or twice weekly basis. (10.) How many of you started plants indoors only to watch them cook as soon as they went outdoors. Remember, if not acclimated plants will sunburn just like people. To harden off your plants place them in direct sun for a couple of hours one morning and gradually increase their exposure form 1-2 hours to 2-4 hours and so on. After about a week your plants will be hardened off and ready for the garden.
Save The Date!!!! Springfield Green Festival April 26, 2019
Stunning Black Gum for Home Landscapes As a horticulture nerd, I am always a bit perplexed why we get stuck in tree and shrub ruts. Maples, pears, dogwoods…that’s the tree rut I’m talking about. There are so many other trees worthy of a spot in our yards and landscapes. Here’s one very much worth it. Black gum (Nyssa sylvatica) displays all the things desirable in a tree for home landscapes: clean, glossy foliage, brilliant fall color, unique thick bark, and few insect and disease problems. Out of the Nyssaceae family, only this genus, Nyssa, is native to North America and to Kentucky. The specific epithet, sylvatica, means ‘of the woods’. There are two common names for this tree: black gum, which refers to its dark leaves, and tupelo, which is derived from the Creek Indian name for the tree (ito opilwa). With age, black gums decay from the top down and the tree becomes hollowed out. Hollow trees used to be cut down and then cut into short sections and used for bee hives thus the term bee gum. Black gum is one of the best honey-producing trees in the world. The tree enjoys acidic soils, will adapt to extreme climates, tolerates wet conditions, and is resistant to drought. Although it will grow in full sun or partial shade, fall color is enhanced by sunny conditions. Fall color is earlier than many trees and it colors up nicely in shades of yellow, orange, scarlet, and maroon. The growth habit of black gum is distinctly pyramidal when young and may keep that habit into old age. It may become rounded or flat-topped with age. It is a slow-growing tree that will attain a height of 30 to 50’ and a width of 20 to 30’. The flowers of black gum are small and insignificant. The fruits are favored by wildlife but are not particularly ornamental. It should be planted in the early spring. It is hardy to USDA Zone 4. Black gum was also bestowed with the honor of being a Theodore Klein Plant Award Winner in 2006. Besides the straight species, there are several noteworthy selections that you might consider planting. Red Rage® (‘Hayman Red’) has superb fall color, high leaf spot resistance and is one of the best new introductions. ‘Autumn Cascades’ is a semi-weeping form with dark, shiny leaves turning orangered in the fall. Note semi-weeping…it can look a bit disheveled and unruly, but some people like that. Green Gable (‘NSUHH’) is a fairly new introduction with lustrous dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Foliage is leaf spot resistant. Branches are upswept, creating a tighter, denser habit at a young age. Fire Master™ was selected for its resistance to insects and diseases and improved hardiness. ‘Wildfire’ is attractive in the spring for its reddish-purple new shoots. As the foliage matures, it changes back to dark, glossy, green. ‘Zydeco Twist’ has contorted stems. It makes a great conversation starter. Submitted by Beth Wilson Agent for Horticulture Pulaski County.
Spring Vegetable Gardening Mid to late March is an ideal time to plant your cool season or spring garden. Potatoes, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, onions, peas, and many other crops can be planted this month. Lettuce can also be planted, however you will want to cover it with remay fabric (tobacco canvas). If you haven’t started cole crop (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower etc.) seedlings yet you should just buy the plants in a few weeks from a trustworthy nursery. This will save you time and trouble unless you are growing a great deal of it.
and quality of your produce. Cool season crops planted too late may bolt, become bitter, and have a poor texture.
better. A black plastic mulch will help warm the soil, however it will have to be removed later in the spring because it will become too Spring vegetables should be planted hot for cool weather plants. as soon as the soil can be worked in You should plant cool season the spring. A light frost will not plants together so you can use the harm most cool season plants after same place later. This will make they have become acclimated to the working the soil in the summer for garden. your fall garden much easier. Most When working the soil in the spring spring garden crops can be “double make sure it is dry enough. If the soil cropped” in Kentucky, credit our long growing season and the fact is too wet will become cloddy and that we have relatively mild spring hard. This could change the soil structure and cause you problems for and fall seasons. If you are going to If you haven’t had your soil tested several years. If you squeeze a hand plant a spring and fall garden and are you still have time to get it back going to “double crop” be sure not full of soil and it crumbles easily before it is too late for your spring when you let go then the soil is dry to plant closely related crops in the garden. It generally takes only a same area. This will increase the enough to work. couple of weeks to return. chances of disease and insect Generally organic mulch is a very carryover problems. Vegetables for a spring garden good idea in a garden, however not grow best at relatively cool t For more information on in a spring garden. Mulch will shade emperatures (55-65 degrees). These the soil and keep it cool; in the growing vegetables in Kentucky stop plants produce their vegetative spring however it is better to let the by the Washington County Extengrowth during springs short cool sion Office and pick up booklet IDsun reach the soil. The soil will days. If they are planted too late, 128 Home Vegetable Gardening in warm faster and your crops will do summer heat will reduce the quantity Kentucky.
Mowing Starts In March The smell of fresh cut grass wafting through the neighborhood is one of the surest signs of spring. You should already be thinking about lawn care since it’s time to clip the grass for the first time. Your most important annual lawn duties begin with that first mowing. The first mowing makes the lawn look spring-like and attractive and can improve the aesthetics and value of your property. Subsequent regular mowing hardens the grass for drought and heat stresses that may occure later on. So when the first clump of grass grows above the mowing height, mow -- even if a lot of the yard doesn’t need to be mowed yet. Not all grasses start growing at the same time. Grass on northern slopes, or in heavy clay soil, will start growing several days later than others. Grass that wasn’t fertilized in the fall or early spring also has a delayed growth. Following recommendations for mowing height and frequency will make your lawn-care duties easier and result in a more attractive yard. If your mower has a fixed, all-year height, set it at two and one-half inches.
March To Do’s
Now is a good time to plan your flower and vegetable garden layout. Look through garden catalogs and landscaping books. Plan on using plants that you have experience with and new varieties, and always try to buy plants that are disease resistant. Check local nurseries for cultivar availability. Generally locally grown plants are better and you get to look at the plants before you buy them. March and April are good months for planting fruit crops. When planting apples choose more than one variety for pollination and fruit set. There are several apples that are good and disease resistant in Kentucky, such as Liberty, Redfree, Enterprise, Jonafree, and my personal favorite Pristine. For a more complete
list call me at the office.
on peach and plum trees anytime before the buds start to swell. This single spray will almost completely control peach leaf curl and plum pocket. Two diseases that cause premature defoliation each year and can weaken trees over time.
It is also a good time to plant thornless blackberries (Apache, Arapaho, Triple Crown), raspberries (Heritage, Autumn Bliss, Fallgold, Brandywine, Royalty) March and April are also good months for planting trees and shrubs. Early March is a good time to prune summer-flowering trees and shrubs such as clethra, beautyberry, butterfly bush, golden raintree, mimosa, and only the following hydrangeas (Annabelle, Hills of Snow, Peegee). Do not prune other hydrangeas or they will not bloom this year.
You can also spray raspberry and blackberry with a liquid lime-sulphur spray to help control anthracnose. This will not control it completely, however it will help and additional sprays during the growing season will be needed.
A dormant spray of copper sulfate should be applied to apple and pear trees by the first of April to improve control of fireblight. Be sure to spray the entire tree. A streptomycin sulfate spray (if available) during the growing season will also help.
It’s a good idea to start spraying fruit trees for diseases as well. Apply liquid lime-sulfur spray
Mowing Starts In March However, if you can easily vary the height, set it at 1.5 to two inches for the first several times you mow this spring. The shorter mowing height will help remove a lot of the winter-burned, brown leaves. Exposing more dark green growth will transfigure your lawn into the most uniform, attractive one in the neighborhood. Move the height up to 2.5 inches after you mow the grass several times. To protect your grass from summer heat and drought injury, when summer arrives raise the mower height to three or 3.5 inches. However, remember that extra high grass, especially tall fescue, tends to fall over and mat down during hot summer weather causing increased summer disease problems. Once you get the mowing under way, you should mow often enough to remove no more than one-third to one-half of the grass height. If your mower is set for two inches, mow again when grass height reaches approximately three inches. Be sure not to scalp the lawn by mowing off most of the green leaves. For tall fescue lawns, a rule of thumb is to mow at five-day intervals during the spring, and at seven-day intervals the rest of the year. If you have a Kentucky bluegrass lawn, a seven-day interval usually is sufficient at a mowing height of 2.5 inches. That interval can probably be expanded during hot, dry weather. For more information on lawn care, check out the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food and Environment’s Turfgrass Science lawn care information website at http://www.uky.edu/Ag/ukturf/ lawns.html or contact the Washington Cooperative Extension Service. Article by Greg Munshaw UK Turf Specialist
Gardeners Wheelbarrow Series 2019 Fill Out Registration Return To The Extension Office February
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AM or PM Lasagna Gardening
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AM or PM Growing Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplants
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Washington County Cooperative Extension Service 245 Corporate Drive Springfield KY, 40069 Office 859-336-7741 Fax 859-336-7445 Email dennis.morgeson@uky.edu
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Red Potato Salad with Creamy Pesto Dressing
In-
Directions: Wash potatoes, Directions chop into 1 inch cubes. In a saucepan, boil potatoes in salted water until just tender, about 10-15 minutes. Drain and cool. Place eggs in a small saucepan. Cover eggs by 1 inch cold water. Bring eggs to boil over high heat. Remove saucepan from burner and cover. Let eggs stand in the water for 12 minutes. Drain, run under cool water and peel. Slice eggs and set aside. In a small bowl, whisk yogurt, pesto, lemon juice and zest. Season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, combine potatoes, eggs, diced tomato and onion. Gently stir in yogurt mixture. Chill several hours and serve.
Ingredients: 2 pounds new potatoes 2 large eggs 3/4 cup nonfat Greek yogurt, plain 1/2 cup prepared pesto 1/2 lemon, juice and zest Salt and pepper to taste 1 medium tomato, diced 1 medium red onion, diced