Vegetable gardening with heirlooms

Page 1

Vegetable Gardening With Heirloom Varieties

Dennis Morgeson Agent for Horticulture Washington County


Heirloom Plants What is an heirloom variety: An open-pollinated variety having some considerable ancestry and history of use.


Definitions, cont. Open-pollinated: not a hybrid variety; seeds from OP plants will grow plants that exhibit the desired varietal characteristics (provided proper care has been taken to prevent out-crossing with other varieties).


Definitions, cont. When plant breeders create a hybrid variety, they cross two lines and come out with progeny exhibiting desired characters. This hybrid generation is termed the F1 generation, and it has a very uniform set of characters. However, when the F1 is allowed to set seed, the resulting F2 generation exhibits a very wide and unpredictable set of characters.


Genotype? Phenotype? • Genotype is the

total genetic makeup seen and unseen…

• Phenotype is the

observable genetic makeup such as yellow or green seeds etc.


Definitions, cont. Variety: a named “typeâ€? of a vegetable species, having certain distinguishing characteristics (taste, shape, color, size, length of season, etc.), being adapted to certain climates and soils, being resistant (or not!) to certain pests/diseases‌ A variety can be OP or hybrid.


Definitions, cont. Considerable ancestry and history of use: decades or centuries of use. Often, long history in limited geographic area before becoming more widely available. Often, cultural connection with human society of origin.


Flour corn: Hopi Yellow Tarahumara Maiz Rojo

Vadito Blue

Mayo Tosabatchi Images courtesy of Native Seeds/SEARCH


How are heirloom varieties different? From hybrids: these are specific crosses of two distinct lines, having very uniform characteristics. Seed from the F1 generation, when grown out, exhibit wide variability and few come true to the F1 “type”. Often bred for high performance under optimum conditions, may not handle stress well. From newer open-pollinated varieties: these don’t (yet) have a history, a record of use and approval, a connection to a group of people…however, from today’s new open pollinated varieties come tomorrow’s heirloom varieties.


Why grow heirloom varieties? Good question since most hybrids when grown at home taste fine, are disease resistant, come in many colors sizes and shapes, and yield well‌.


TASTE! There is no denying the flavor of an heirloom tomato compared to a hybrid….we won’t even mention shipping tomatoes…YUCK!

Pink Brandywine Tomato

Hillbilly Potato Leaf Tomato


1. Taste • Modern breeding programs for hybrids

concentrate on ability to grow in commercial production practices, appearance, firmness and the ability to be picked green and gas ripened. Taste has been an after thought.

• Heirloom varieties were selected for

generations for taste and their ability to grow in particular locations.


2. The variety of varieties Many gardeners like to grow multiple types of certain crops, to revel in the variety. Different colors, shapes, tastes, uses‌it’s easy to get lost in the bounty! Market gardeners benefit from offering their clientele a nice range of choices.

Red Core Chantenay, Japanese Imperial Long, Dragon, and Oxheart carrots. Images courtesy of Seeds of Change.


3. The biodiversity (this is the scary part) The greater the range of genes available in a crop plant species, the more secure the future of that crop. Just a few large corporations control the majority of crop seeds, and they offer relatively few choices. Basically saving seeds may save humanity from starvation someday!


3. Biodiversity • Smaller, independent seed companies,

certain non-profit organizations and backyard gardeners are vitally important to the maintenance of the incredible genetic diversity that humanity has fostered in our cultivated plants.


4. To be able to save seeds Many gardeners like to save seeds from their own gardens, to plant again next year and to share with friends. Seed saving is a fun hobby and a useful art. Depending on the species, seed saving is relatively easy (beans, tomatoes, flowers) or it may require considerable planning and care (squash, peppers).


4. Being Able To Save Seeds • Saves money! • Even purchased heirloom seeds are

cheaper than hybrids to buy • You can select plants that did best to save seeds from and eventually even develop your own variety that does well in your garden, (locally adapted variety) • Fun, teaches a good lesson to children


5. Nostalgia • This is a big one for me!

• •

German Tomatoes, cleome, zinnias, marigolds, etc. remind me of my Great and Grand Parents Heirloom flowers are “Grandmas Garden” especially tall annuals. Most varieties that were saved have stories of were and who they came from etc. This makes them even more special!


6. Less Uniformity • This is a negative for commercial

production but for home gardeners variety is the spice of life, most fruit and flowers will not grow in the same shapes and sizes • Heirlooms don’t ripen uniformly like many hybrids were bred to do which means it extends the harvest


Variety!!!!!!!


Arikara Yellow

Dragon’s Tongue Mayflower

Brittle Wax

True Red Cranberry

Brockton Horticultural

Swedish Brown

Hidatsa Shield Figure

Cherokee Trail of Tears

Courtesy Seed Savers Exchange

Jacob’s Cattle Gasless


Dwarf Gray Sugar Edible Podded British Wonder

Little Marvel

Amish Snap

Courtesy Seed Savers Exchange

Tom Thumb

Aquadulce

Green Arrow

Broad Windsor

Courtesy Territorial Seed Company


Chimayo

Alcalde

Lemon Drop

Alma Paprika

Jimmy Nardello’s

Ancho Gigantea

Isleta

Bulgarian Carrot

Courtesy Seed Savers Exchange, Native Seeds/SEARCH


Dixie Golden Giant

Druzba

Indische Fleish

Hazel Mae

Lemony

Courtesy Tomatofest

Peacevine Cherry

Costoluto Genovesee Evergreen Martino’s Roma

Orange Russian

Hillbilly

Oregon Spring


Applegreen

FL High Bush

Listada de Gandia

Ping Tung Long

All Blue

Russian Banana

Cranberry Red

Yukon Gold

Courtesy Seed Savers Exchange (Next Class is on Growing Potatoes and Onions)


Pusa Asita Black Oxheart

Snow White

Scarlet Nantes

Courtesy Seeds of Change


Golden Bataam Improved Painted Mountain Stowell’s Evergreen

Bloody Butcher

Manzano Yellow Santo Domingo Posole

Courtesy Native Seeds/SEARCH; Seed Savers Exchange


Basic Vegetable Culture • Light • • • •

≥6 hours

Soil Access Air Drainage Proximity to Trees & Shrubs


Access • Near the house. – Easy to get to when harvesting. – Accessible for weeding, cultivating, & staking plants.

• Close to water. • May deter vermin.


Air Drainage • Low-lying areas are subject to

unseasonable frosts & water-logged soils. • South-facing slopes warm more quickly. • Protected sites with reasonably good air flow is best • Shield from damaging thunderstorm winds • Air flow dries foliage to help control diseases


Proximity To Trees & Shrubs • Unwanted shade. • Competition for

water and nutrients. • Juglone toxicity. • Site the garden at least 10 feet from any tree or shrub.


Weed Control • Compete with plants for sunlight, water, nutrients, & •

• •

space. Reduce perennial weeds before planting. – Solarization with black plastic – Herbicides (Roundup, Preen) – Tillage Hoe regularly to keep annual weeds under control. Once actively growing vining crops compete well against weeds


Soil • Well-drained. Solutions for clay soils:

– Add organic matter – Raised beds?

• Work soils down to 6-7 •

inches. Remove large stones, clods, or plant debris. Particularly important with root crops.


Soil

• Soil test – Best done the fall before planting and every 3 years thereafter. – Sample 6-7 inches deep in 5 areas of the garden randomly. • pH – 6.0-6.8 • Phosphorus • Potassium • Nitrogen • Organic matter • If you did not do a soil test apply 10-10-10 at 25lbs per 1000 square feet.


Add Compost! • Benefits: – – – –

Improves water retention Promotes soil structure Increases fertility Increases cation exchange (nutrient availability) – Reduces fertilizer requirements up to 50% – Enhanced microbial activity • Suppresses pathogens • Accelerates the breakdown of pesticides & other synthetic compounds


Temperature • Cool season crops

– Develop best <50°F – Tolerate frost. – Quality deteriorates under warm conditions. – Peas

• Warm season crops

– Develop best at temps >50°F. – Killed by frost. – Cucurbits (cucumbers, muskmelon/cantaloupe, pumpkins, summer squash, winter squash, and gourds (cucurbit type gourds aren’t generally edible)


Water • For optimum

growth vegetables need at least 1” of water per week….However?


Peas

Cool Season Vegetables

• Family Fabaceae • • • •

(Leguminoseae) Native to middle Asia. Became popular as a vegetable in the 1700s. Cool season, herbaceous annual. Classified by growth habit, pod appearance, seed color, and starch/sugar content.


Pea Culture • Plant as early as March 1st • Preparing the planting site the previous fall • • • • •

will prevent planting delays. Sandy, well-drained soils are best. Soak seeds for 1 hour prior to planting to speed germination. Space 1-2 inches apart in the row. Support with a trellis or twine. Very few


Harvesting Peas • Harvest peas 3

weeks after full bloom. • Plump enough to shell garden peas easily. • Don’t allow to get over ripe. • Store at 35-40°F under high humidity.


Cabbage Culture

• Start seeds indoors •

6-8 weeks before the last frost. Slowly acclimate transplants before setting outside permanently. Sow seed directly for fall crops 10-12 weeks before killing frost.


Harvesting Cabbage • Harvest when heads are • • •

firm and before they split. Cut with a sharp knife just above the root crown. Don’t wash prior to storage. Store in refrigerator with or without a plastic bag.


Broccoli Culture • Relatively tolerant to • • • • • •

environmental stress. Temperatures below 40°F will cause chilling injury. Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Sow seed directly for fall crops 10-12 weeks before killing frost. Browning of florets due to boron deficiency. Button heads due to temperature extremes or nitrogen deficiency. Spray plants during the growing season with Sevin to control cabbage looper


Harvesting Broccoli • Harvest when heads are • • • •

firm and florets haven’t begun to open. Retain 2-4 inches of stem when cutting. Cut sprouting broccoli just below the floret to stimulate new shoots. Cool immediately after harvest. Don’t wash prior to refrigeration.


Cauliflower Culture • Start seeds indoors 6-8

• Prolonged temperatures

weeks before the last frost. Needs a long, cool growing season. Sow seed directly for fall crops 10-12 weeks before killing frost.

below 50°F will induce bolting. Hot summer temps will cause poor curd quality. Tie cauliflower leaves together to blanch the curds when heads are 23”. Heads develop in 3-14 days after tying depending on the temperature so check every other day.


Cauliflower Problems • Browning of the curds is caused by boron • • •

deficiency or unavailability in high pH soils. Ricing is when curds become velvety and is caused by high nitrogen and temperatures that result in rapid head formation. Blindness is when no curd is formed due to poor fertility, insect damage, disease, heredity, or cold. Stressed plants may form small, “button” heads.


Harvesting Cauliflower • Harvest when curds are compact and surrounded by • •

leaves. Retain enough wrapper leaves to hold heads intact. Wrap in a damp cloth and refrigerate immediately.


Brussels Sprouts Culture • Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. • Needs a long, cool growing season: 90100 days. • Sow seed directly for fall crops 10-12 weeks before killing frost. • Bitter sprouts caused by heat or drought.


Harvesting Brussels Sprouts • Best flavor develops • • •

after frost. Sprouts harvested before frost are loose and bitter. Top 3 weeks before harvest. Don’t have to remove lower leaves.


Other Cole Crops

• Kale—

B. oleracae var. acephala

• Kohlrabi—

B. oleracea var. gongyloides

• Chinese Cabbage—

B. oleracea var. pekinensis

• Bok Choy—

B. rapa var. chinensis


Carrot Culture • Sow ¼ inch deep in • • • •

loose soil free of debris & rocks. Thin to 1-3 inches apart in the row. Well-drained soil. Replant mid-summer for extra sweet fall carrots. Will produce a flower stalk if exposed to temps of 50°F for 6-8 weeks particularly under long days.


Harvesting Carrots • Harvest when they are sweet • • • •

and before they become woody. Carrots with large shoulders are often woody. Wash well before storing in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Sugar content increases while in cold storage. Ethylene will cause bitterness – don’t store with apples, melons, or bananas.


Radish Culture • Plant before the last frost in

spring and sow every 10-14 days to extend the harvest. • Plant 1 inch apart in the row with rows 1 foot apart for spring radishes and 2 inches apart in the row for winter radishes. • Raised beds will promote rapid development of spring radishes • Consider interplanting spring radishes with other, later maturing crops.


Harvesting Radishes

• Spring radishes are harvested 20-25 days •

after seeding when <¾ inch diameter. Winter radishes are harvested 50-60 days after planting.


Beet Culture

• Temperatures of 55-70°F produce rapid growth and • •

good flavor. Space seed 2-4 inches apart in double rows with rows 15-30 inches apart. Sow every 2-3 weeks apart to extend the season.


Harvesting Beets • Harvest when beets

• •

are round, tender, & 2” diameter. Old, large roots can be fibrous. 50-60 days after planting. May store for up to 6 months in the refrigerator.


Other Root Crops • Turnip – Brassica rapa subsp. rapifera • Rutabaga – Brassica napus var. napobrassica • Parsnip – Pastinaca sativa • Celariac – Apium graveolens var. rapaceum


Lettuce Culture • Seed at ¼ inch depth •

• • •

or use transplants. Cool season – temps above 70° with long days cause lettuce to bolt. Moist, well-drained soil—shallow rooted and drought susceptible. Bitterness comes from high temperatures & mature plants. Harvest in ~50 days


Harvesting Lettuce • Harvest individual leaves or •

• • •

bunches of leaves by cutting them with a sharp knife or shears. Harvest lettuce heads by cutting them with a sharp knife below the lowest leaf and remove any damaged leaves. Harvest Romaine lettuce when heads are smaller to avoid bitterness. Place in a perforated plastic bag and refrigerate immediately. Don’t wash until just prior to use.


Spinach Culture • • •

– Temps of 55-65°F. Spring and fall crop. Can sow seeds late in fall for fall & spring crop. Direct seed in rows or broadcast. – ¾ apart in rows 2-4 inches wide – Plant ½-¾ inches deep – Slow to emerge – up to 3 weeks – Clip to thin to 1 inch apart


Harvesting Spinach • • • • •

35-50 days after planting. 5-7 leaves per plant. Remove outer leaves first. Continued harvest until seed stalk forms. Store at 32°F.


Tomato Culture • Self fertile, wind-pollinated • • • •

flowers. Start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost Plant transplants 18-24 inches apart in rows 3-4 feet apart Night temperature critical: 60 70ºF Temps < 50 will cause blossom abortion, poor fruit set & catfacing


Determinate vs. Indeterminate • Determinate

– 3 to 4 ft tall – Plant ends in flower bud

• Indeterminate

– 7 to 15 ft tall – Plant “never ends”, remains vegetative – Forms flowers in leaf axils – Cherry and pear tomatoes

• 1 plant can produce 1050 lb fruit/season


Staking or Trellising


Harvesting Tomatoes • Ripe, well-formed, • • • •

blemish free Heirloom & beefsteak tomatoes will be irregular in shape Never refrigerate tomatoes – won’t fully develop flavor after harvest Ripen unripe fruit in a paper bag out of direct sunlight Freeze, dehydrate, or can to preserve the summer flavor


Tomato Problems • Blossom End Rot- Caused by

lack of calcium from inconsistant moisture, control by giving adequate moisture and liming if soil test requires.

• Early Blight-Caused by a

fungus, maintain proper fertility and use fungicides such as maneb, mancozeb, fixed copper, or chlorothanil weekly during hot humid weather when.


Tomato Problems • Fusarium and

Verticillium WiltCaused by a fungus, use resistant cultivars (VFN).

• Late Blight/Septoria

Leaf Spot-Caused by a fungus, use fungicides such as for early blight.


Pepper Culture • Start seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost • Harden off transplants before setting out. • Plant 18-24 inches apart in the row. • Warm season

– Grow best 70-80°F day & 65-70°F night. – Blossom abortion, poor fruit set, shortened fruit, lack of color.

• Capsanthin – chemical that causes peppers to ripen

– <56°F inhibit capsanthin production.

• Moist soil - mulch is beneficial.


Harvesting Peppers • Harvest immature or • • •

mature. Chili or cayenne peppers can be dried. Avoid harvesting peppers with sunken brown spots. Store fresh peppers in the vegetable crisper section of the refrigerator.


Pepper Problems • Bacterial Spot-Caused

•

by bacteria. Spread by seed contamination. Control by 10% bleach solution soak of seeds or buy disease free transplants. Fruit Soft Rot-Caused by bacteria. Control by controlling fruitfeeding insects and


Eggplant Culture • Indeterminate, erect • • •

bush Flowers borne singly or in clusters in leaf axils Start seed indoors 1012 weeks before last frost Very susceptible to chilling – 75-85°F day & 65-75°F night

• Best if planted on black plastic mulch


Harvesting Eggplant

• Harvest eggplant approximately 25-40 days after pollination. • Fruit should be glossy and deeply colored and feel heavy for its size. • Mature fruit will have a dull skin and flesh will be bitter. • No such thing as male and female fruit!

– Fruit with oval dimples on the blossom end will have fewer seeds and are less meaty but this is not related to gender.

• Clip fruit from the plant to avoid damage


Bean Culture • Plant beans after the last • • • • • • •

expected frost in warm soil, 50ºF. Plant last or fall crop no later than August 15 Soak seed for an hour before planting to enhance germination. May need inoculum in new gardens. Plant seed 1 to 2 inches deep. Well-drained soils. Little or no nitrogen fertilizer required. Pole beans will require staking or some form of support.


Harvesting Beans • Harvest beans 14-18 • •

days after full bloom. Should be sweet, tender and uniform size. Store in the refrigerator under high humidity.


Sex in the Garden • Cucurbit flowers may be perfect

• • • •

(have male and female parts) or imperfect (have only one or the other). Male flowers produced early in the season (daylength >14 hrs.) Female flowers begin to show up along with the males around the summer solstice And male flowers predominate in August until frost Genetics, day length, and temperature determine what gender of flowers are produced


Melon Culture • Require 90-125 days to • • • • • • • •

produce a crop. Seed at ½ to 1 inch depth, 5 ft centers. Don’t transplant well. Chilling sensitive. Require warm, sunny weather to produce sweet fruit. Moist, well-drained soil. Best grown on plastic mulch. Bees essential for good fruit set. Only allow 1-2 fruits to develop per plant.


Harvesting Melons • Harvest muskmelons at • •

full-slip. 30-35 days after pollination. Cool immediately to prevent deterioration. Observe the “ground patch” on watermelon to determine when to harvest – it will become white to creamy yellow. Wipe watermelon clean with a damp cloth and store in a cool location.


Cucumber Culture • Plant seeds 1-1½ • • •

inches deep and 812 inches apart. Require soil temperatures of 60°F. Don’t transplant well. Trellis on strong wire mesh to save space.


Harvesting Cucumbers • Harvest slicing cucumbers

when they are 6-8 inches long (typically 12 days after pollination). • Oversized (yellow) fruit left on the plant will prevent subsequent fruit from developing & will have large seeds. • Wipe clean with a damp cloth and store uncut in the refrigerator.


Squash Culture • Seed early and plant 1 • • • • • •

inch deep 4 feet apart. Moist soil Warm season 65-75°F. Mulch. Reflective mulch may repel insects. Bees essential. Bush-type or vining plants. Shallow roots – irrigate.


Harvesting Squash • Harvest the first summer • • • • • • •

squash 7-8 weeks after seeding when fruit are 2-3 inches in diameter and 7 inches long. Handle summer squash gently as it bruises easily. Refrigerate for up to 1 week. Winter squash is harvested 3-4 months after planting. Harvest winter squash before a hard frost. Outer skin of winter squash should resist fingernail pressure. Cure winter squash by exposing them to 80°F temps for 7-10 days. Store at 40-45°F for up to 2-3 months.


Pumpkin Culture

• Don’t plant before May 20 in southern WI and up to 2 weeks later in • • • • • • • •

the north. Plant 1-1 ½inches deep 3-5 feet apart in the row with rows 4-6 feet apart . Moist soil. Warm season 65-75°F. Mulch. Bees essential. Shallow roots – irrigate. Hand pollinate giant pumpkins so they set fruit early. Only allow 2 fruit per plant to develop.


Harvesting Pumpkins • Harvest 3-4 months • • • • •

after planting. Outer skin should resist fingernail pressure. Leave a 3” handle. Cure by exposing them to temps of 80°F for 710 days. Store at 40-45°F for up to 2-3 months. Store better if not exposed to hard frost.


Common Pests Flea Beetle


Aphids


Colorado Potato Beetle


Cabbage Insects • Cabbage Looper • Diamond Back Moth • Imported Cabbage Worm • Cross Striped Cabbage Worm • Beet Armyworm


Squash Vine Borer


Squash Bug


Cucumber Beetle


Corn Earworm


Mexican Bean Beetle


Stink Bugs


Good Guys!


What You Are Taking Home? From Seed Saver’s Exchange Bean, Kentucky Wonder Bush Catalog #0205 (Phaseolus vulgaris) (aka Improved Commodore) Selected from Kentucky Wonder pole bean. A standard for the home and market gardener. Tender, stringless, round, fleshy 8" pods have fine quality and excellent flavor. Heavy yields over an extended period. Bush habit, snap, 65 days.

Bean, Jacob's Cattle Gasless Catalog #1174 (Phaseolus vulgaris) The result of a cross between Jacob's Cattle and Mexican Black Turtle by Sumner Pike of Lubec, Maine in the 1950s. Reported to have half the flatulence of regular Jacob's Cattle. Excellent flavor, originally obtained by Wanigan Associates. Bush habit, 70-75 days.


Watermelon, Moon & Stars (Van Doren) Organic Catalog #0266A (Citrullus lanatus) (aka Sun, Moon & Stars) Created a sensation when Seed Savers Exchange disseminated this legendary longlost variety. Kent Whealy searched for years before rediscovering it on Merle Van Doren’s farm near Macon, Missouri. The 15" dark green oval fruits are covered with pea-sized bright yellow “stars” and usually one larger “moon.” Foliage is also spotted. The fruits have sweet pink flesh and brown seeds. 88–90 days.

Watermelon, Mountain Sweet Yellow Catalog #0881 (Citrullus lanatus) Introduced into the 1991 SSE Yearbook by Dr. Larry Woods from Georgia. Oblong 20-35 pound fruits with dark and light green stripes. Extra firm deep yellow flesh and black seeds. Quite productive, very high sugar content. 95-100 days.

Tomato, Amish Paste Catalog #0107 (Solanum lycopersicum) First listed in the 1987 SSE Yearbook by Thane Earle of Whitewater, Wisconsin. Commercialized by Tom Hauch of Heirloom Seeds, who acquired it from the Amish near Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Bright red 8-12 ounce fruits vary in shape from oxheart to rounded plum. Delicious flesh is juicy and meaty, excellent for sauce or fresh eating. One of Slow Food USA’s Ark of Taste varieties. Indeterminate, 85 days from transplant.


Squash, Black Beauty Zucchini Organic Catalog #1303A (Cucurbita pepo) The standard summer squash, introduced to U.S. markets in the 1920s. Compact everbearing bush plants are loaded with glossy green-black fruits with firm white flesh. Best eaten when under 8" long. Excellent variety for freezing. 1957 All America Selections. 45-65 days.

Soybean, Envy Organic Catalog #0860A (Glycine max) Developed by the late Professor Elwyn Meader at the University of New Hampshire. Upright 24" plants produce an abundance of all-green beans, excellent quality. Great shortseason variety. 75-85 days.

Pepper, Napoleon Sweet Organic Catalog #1043A (Capsicum annuum) Eight-inch elongated bells are as mild as apples. Fruits stand upright on 2' plants and ripen from green to red. Best used when green or just turning to red. Listed in 1923 by L. L. Olds Seed Company and described as “Possibly the most productive of all the large peppers, bears consistently until frost. Remarkably early for a large fruited pepper.� Best 70-90 days from transplant. SWEET


Pepper, Ancho Gigantea Catalog #1213 (Capsicum annuum) The standard Mexican variety for sauces and stuffing, excellent for chiles rellenos. Green-black heartshaped fruits measure 4" long. Referred to as poblanos when fresh and anchos when ripened to red and dried. Distinctive rich flavor. 90 days from transplant. MEDIUM HOT.

Collards, Vates Catalog #1562 (Brassica oleracea) (aka Blue Stem, Vates Non-Heading) Dark green leaves on upright 24-inch plants. Known for lack of purpling in veins and leaves. Excellent variety for boiling. Bolt and frost resistant. 60-80 days.

Carrot, Dragon Catalog #1190 (Daucus carota) The most refined purple carrot available; bred by John Navazio. Sure to be the best selling carrot at specialty and farmers’ markets. Beautiful red-purple exterior provides an amazing contrast with the yellow-orange interior when sliced. Sweet, almost spicy flavor. 90 days.


From Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds

Snowball Self-Blanching Cauliflower An old, white type; ivory heads, good size. The standard American favorite for over 100 years. Jumbo Pink Banana Squash (C. maxima) 105 days Large, pink, banana-shaped fruit can weigh 10-40 lbs. This variety is over 100 years old. We have grown this squash for many years. Fine flavored, dry, sweet, orange flesh that is superbly fine tasting, one of my favorites. Popular on the West Coast; large yields. Russian Red or Ragged Jack Kale 1 oz Very tender and mild, a pre-1885 heirloom variety. Oak type leaves have a red tinge, and stems are a purplish-red. One of our favorite kales. Great flavor.


Black Beauty Eggplant 1/8 oz 90 days. Standard old type, large black fruit of excellent quality. Very tasty but is lower yielding and much later than many types and needs a long season.

Long Island Improved Brussels Sprouts 100 days. The standard open-pollinated variety since the 1890’s. Heavy yields of delicious sprouts.

Early Scarlet Globe Radish 22 days. The classic, round red radish with crisp white flesh that is mild and tasty. Has better warm weather tolerance than many.


Romanesco Italia Broccoli The true and popular Italian heirloom with spiraling, apple-green heads that are so superbly flavored. This variety is widely grown in northern Italy. A must with many of the finest chefs.

Vegetable Spaghetti Squash 88 days. (C. pepo) This is the popular squash with stringy flesh that is used like spaghetti. Introduced by Sakata Seed Co. of Japan in 1934. May have originated in China.

Burgundy Okra - 55 days. Pods are a beautiful, deep red, and stems are also red. Very tender and delicious. Ornamental; tasty.


Little Gem Lettuce 50 days. Very small, green, romaine-type. One of the very besttasting lettuces. A superb heat-tolerant variety that is sure to please!

Brandywine Tomato - 80 days. The most popular heirloom vegetable! A favorite of many gardeners, large fruit with superb flavor. A great potato-leafed variety from 1885! Beautiful pink fruit up to 1½ lbs each! Japanese Minowase Daikon Radish Popular old Japanese favorite; the giant white roots grow to 24 inches long and 3 inches wide. Sweet and very crisp, this radish is a delight pickled, stir-fried, steamed or raw.


Pineapple Tomato 75-95 days. Very large, up to 2 lbs each. The yellow fruit has red marbling through the á´€esh and is one of the most beautiful tomatoes we sell. The flavor is very sweet and fruity; good yields!

Bloomsdale Long Standing Spinach - 50 days. The old standard since 1925, does better in hot weather than most. Glossy, deep green, delicious leaves.

Purple Top White Globe Turnip - A popular market variety, heirloom (pre-1880), productive, and easy to grow. Skin is purple-white.


Charentais Melon 85 days. A famous, superb heirloom. A French 2-3 lb. melon with light grey-green skin. The bright orange flesh is super sweet and very fragrant. This was my favorite melon in 2003. I just love the firm, sweet flesh. These are top sellers at high dollar markets. Calabrese Green Sprouting Broccoli An Italian heirloom brought to America in the 1880s; 5”-8” heads and many side shoots.

Marketmore 76 Cucumber 70 days. Dark green, 8”-9” fruit; great slicer! Good yields! Excellent flavor. A real standard for superb eating cukes.


Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage 70 days. Introduced in the 1840’s, with tasty, 2-lb, sweet and flavorful, conical heads. This very early variety was sold commercially by Peter Henderson in the late 1860’s. Red Wing Lettuce Mix Salad Blend The "All Red Formula Mix". At last a lettuce mix that contains a wide range of the best brilliant red (and red splashed) specialty types. Our growers love this beautiful mix and so do the chefs. Five Color Silverbeet Swiss Chard 60 days. A beautiful chard, its colors are brilliant (pink, yellow, orange, red and white). This chard originated in Australia. Very mild, ornamental, and tasty. Great for market growers and specialty markets. Pretty enough to plant in the ᴀower garden; so delicious; one of our favorite greens! (Sold in stores as “Bright Lights”)


Clemson Spineless Okra 60 days. Plant is spineless; tasty green pods, best picked small. Developed in 1939. Still a standard in many home gardens. Banana Melon 90 days. Banana-shaped fruit with smooth yellow skin and sweet, spicy salmon flesh. 16-24 inches long, 5-8 lbs. It was listed in 1885 by J. H. Gregory's Catalogue, which said, "When ripe it reminds one of a large, overgrown banana... It smells like one, having a remarkably powerful and delicious fragrance." This is one of my all- time favorites, being very sweet and great for specialty markets. Early Prolific Straightneck Squash 50 days. AAS Winner from 1938; uniform lemonyellow, club-shaped fruit; firm flesh is of excellent quality, tasty.


Detroit Dark Red Beet 55 days. The most popular, old standard, all-purpose red beet; uniform and smooth, blood red flesh that is sweet and tasty. 14” tops make good greens. Heirloom variety introduced 1892.

Henderson's Black Seeded Simpson Lettuce 60 days. Introduced in the 1870's by Peter Henderson & Co. Sweet and tender leaves, light yellow-green; very popular.

Danvers 126 Half Long Carrot 70 days. The original Danvers Half Long dates back to the 1870s. This strain “126” was improved in the 1940s. The old standard American carrot, adaptable and dependable. Thick 7” roots have good flavor. Productive.


Tall Telephone Garden Pea Long vines reach up to 6 feet with support, and large pods yield 8-10 peas each. The peas are large in size, being sweet and tender. This popular garden favorite was introduced in 1881 and is still a standard with many.

Bushel Basket Gourd Huge, round gourds, up to 24" across, can be used for all kinds of art work and as storage containers. Night flowering plants attract huge moths; very long vines. Fruit has a thick, hard shell. A best seller! Inedible Bonus!!!

Questions?


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.