Special
Capital Zoning District
Design Guidelines
FRANKFORT, KENTUCKY
ADOPTED SEPTEMBER 2024
Introduction
WHAT IS THE SPECIAL CAPITAL DISTRICT?
The Special Capital District is a historic district established by the City of Frankfort to preserve and protect historic buildings, including homes, in the South Frankfort neighborhood.
WHAT MAKES THIS DISTRICT “SPECIAL”?
The entire neighborhood was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1982. It is significant because of its diverse collection of architecture — from simple cottages to ornate Victorian homes — as well as its evolving history.
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF THESE DESIGN GUIDELINES?
The guidelines exist to provide property owners and the Architectural Review Board (ARB) guidance on exterior changes to buildings within the Special Capital District. They apply to any project that affects the exterior of a property within the Special Capital District, including repair or replacement, additions, new construction, and demolition.
THE GUIDELINES DO:
Create minimum standards to help maintain the historic character of the South Frankfort neighborhood
Include flexibly in the use of materials
Help you understand what is required vs what is recommended
Promote consistent, easily understandable standards for property owners and the ARB
THE GUIDELINES DON’T:
Require involuntary rehabilitation or restoration
Regulate the use of a property
Regulate or make recommendations for building interiors
Require specific paint color
Require specific products
WHY DO WE CARE ABOUT PRESERVING THIS NEIGHBORHOOD?
Preservation is one of several ways to guide change over time, along with other planning and zoning tools. We want to preserve the unique character of the Special Capital District because it is meaningful, it makes Frankfort distinct and it connects us with our past and each other, as well as our future.
This neighborhood includes properties with recognized significance to our state and our nation:
1.
2.
The Kentucky State Capitol & Governor’s Mansion, 700 Capital Avenue
The Barracks Historic District, 600 block of Shelby Street and Woodland Avenue
3. The Gov. Charles S. Morehead House, 217 Shelby Street
4. The Rev. Jesse R. Ziegler House, 509 Shelby Street
Design Review Process Overview
WHAT ARE THE FIRST STEPS IN THE PROCESS?
The first steps in the design review process go hand-in-hand: reviewing the design guidelines and developing your project. By reviewing applicable sections of the guidelines, you should be able to understand how you can alter your property and what will be approved by Staff or the Architectural Review Board (ARB).
WHAT IS STAFF APPROVAL VS ARB REVIEW?
The vast majority of potential changes to properties in the Special Capital District can be approved by staff rather than needing review and approval by the ARB. This is relatively unusual for historic districts and makes the review process quicker and easier, as long as the guidelines are being followed.
WHAT IS A “CERTIFICATE OF APPROPRIATENESS”?
A certificate of appropriateness is an approval issued by the Historic Preservation Officer to proceed with new construction or alterations to property within the Special Capital District.
1,026
Design Review Process Overview
REVIEW DESIGN GUIDELINES
DEVELOP PROJECT
MEET WITH STAFF TO DISCUSS PROJECT
SUBMIT MATERIALS TO STAFF FOR REVIEW
APPLICATION REVIEWED BY STAFF AND/OR ARB
APPLICATION APPROVED BY STAFF AND/OR ARB
CERTIFICATE OF APPROPRIATENESS ISSUED
UNDERTAKE CITY PERMITTING PROCESS
PROJECT CONSTRUCTED AS APPROVED
Best Practices for Historic Preservation
Credit: Vince Michael, Ph.D., Executive Director, San Antonio Conservation Society, vincemichael.com/about www.traditionalbuilding.com/opinions/historic-building-guidelines-process www.traditionalbuilding.com/opinions/authenticity-of-materials
Kentucky Historic Rehabilitation Tax Credits
WHAT IS A HISTORIC REHABILITATION TAX CREDIT?
The Historic Rehabilitation Tax Credit programs (also known as “historic tax credits”) are meant to offset additional costs that a historic property owner may incur by rehabilitating a historic property.
WHY SHOULD I CARE ABOUT HISTORIC TAX CREDITS?
If your home is historic and located in the Special Capital District, you likely qualify to apply for the fully refundable Kentucky Historic Tax Credit. If you own an income-producing property, you likely qualify to apply for both the Kentucky and the Federal Historic Tax Credit.
HOW DO I GET THE CREDIT FOR MY HOME?
If you own and live in your home and spend at least $20,000 in renovations, you can apply for the Kentucky Historic Tax Credit. You’ll have to commit to rehabbing your property according to federal standards. The State Historic Preservation Office (located within the Kentucky Heritage Council right here in Frankfort) will review your project to ensure that you will maintain your home’s character-defining features while allowing compatible, contemporary updates for modern-day use.
ARE THERE OTHER BENEFITS TO THE TAX CREDIT?
Yes! If you apply for the Kentucky or Federal Historic Tax Credit and your project is approved by the State Historic Preservation Office (Kentucky Heritage Council), your project qualifies for an expedited approval process by the Architectural Review Board.
Section 1
Renovation Guidelines
Within the Special Capital District, wood siding is the most common historic cladding material. Wood-framed residential buildings within the district likely had wood siding even if they do not today.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 The best approach is to retain and repair existing wood siding.
2 Replacement of siding can be approved administratively if the replacement material and treatment meets design requirements.
3 New siding should attempt to match the dimensions of historic siding.
4 If existing siding is replaced, existing historic features must be retained (ex: trim).
5 New siding should follow the direction and pattern of historic siding.
ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES
VINYL GUIDELINES
This is an example of an appropriate application of vinyl siding. Historic features are left in place and remain visible, and the siding follows a typical pattern.
(1.1.10 Vinyl, Composite, or Engineered Guidelines)
BRACKET
SOFFIT FASCIA
CORNER BOARD
SIDING (VINYL)
TRIM
CORNICE
EAVE
Detailed Siding Guidelines
O1.1.1 Repair Preferred
The repair of existing wood siding is the best practice for siding. Existing siding may be consolidated if portions are damaged and new wood siding is installed that matches the dimensions of the existing siding.
O1.1.2 New Wood Siding Preferred
New wood clapboard siding is highly preferred as the repair or replacement material on wood frame buildings. New wood siding should match the dimensions of the existing siding. If no historic siding exists, other historic buildings of a similar type, style, and date of construction should be referenced to determine the appropriate profile/dimensions of new siding.
O1.1.3 Fiber Cement
If artificial siding is desired, fiber cement siding is the most perfected alternative to wood on wood frame buildings. New fiber cement siding should match the dimensions of the existing siding. If no historic siding exists, other historic buildings of a similar type, style, and date of construction should be referenced to determine the appropriate profile/dimensions of new siding.
O ARB 1.1.4 Vinyl, Composite, or Engineered
Vinyl, composite, or engineered siding, such as Boral TruExterior, is not the most preferred treatment but is acceptable to be used on wood frame buildings. New vinyl, composite, or engineered siding must follow the guidelines on the following page and its application must be reviewed by the Architectural Review Board.
X 1.1.5 Non-Acceptable Materials
The following materials are not acceptable to be used as siding within the district:
Ҍ Aluminum
Ҍ Rough-sawn wood*
Ҍ Plywood*
Ҍ Any material not specifically mentioned in the previous paragraphs
X 1.1.6 Non-Acceptable Installation Techniques
The following installation techniques are not acceptable within the district:
Ҍ Siding should not be installed vertically unless there is historic documentation to support its use on the specific building.
Ҍ Enclosing or “boxing in” the eaves is not an acceptable treatment unless there is historic documentation to support its use on the specific building.
O *1.1.7 Non-historic Accessory Structures
Rough-sawn wood, diagonally-oriented wood, or plywood siding (i.e. T-111) is permitted on accessory structures less than 200 sq.ft. in size. See section 2 for more information on accessory structures.
X 1.1.8 Covering Existing Masonry
It is never acceptable to cover existing masonry with siding.
O 1.1.9 Existing Non-acceptable Siding
Buildings that already have artificial stone, asbestos, asphalt shingles, or other similar non-acceptable materials are permitted to use similar materials in resurfacing or repairing these existing materials.
O 1.1.10 Vinyl, Composite, or Engineered Guidelines
The following guidelines must be followed when installing vinyl, composite, or engineered siding in the district. See page 21 for an appropriate application of these guidelines.
1. Corner boards for artificial siding must be the same size as the existing corner boards.
2. All new window and door trim must be the same width as the historic trim.
3. Architectural features must be covered
in a manner that will allow for the same proportion after coverage as before coverage.
4. New siding must run in the same direction as the historic siding.
5. Frieze and soffit boards must be covered in the same widths as exists on the building.
6. All detailing that is not flush with the siding or surface must show the same proportion after siding is installed as before it was installed.
7. All exterior facade shingles must remain and must not be covered or altered.
8. All exposed eaves, decorative porch posts, railings, brackets, cornices, and cornice trim must remain uncovered.
9. Existing historic shutters consistent with the style of the building must be returned to the historic location after the siding is applied.
10. All masonry must remain uncovered.
11. The width of new siding must have approximately the same width and shape as the historic (typically 4” to 6” wide).
12. New siding must not be installed over rotted wood — all historic siding, trim, fascia, and drip items must be repaired or replaced.
13. Siding materials should be smooth, unless a stamped or molded design is necessary to match existing. Siding with raised wood grain is not an appropriate choice for historic buildings in this district.
Windows are one of the most important features of historic homes and buildings, and their design and materials greatly impact the overall character of the Special Capital District.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 The best approach is to retain and repair historic wood windows.
2 New wood windows of the same size and proportions can be installed.
3 New clad wood windows with aluminum, fiberglass, or vinyl can be installed that are the same proportions as the existing.
4 New wood or aluminum storm windows can be installed.
5 The dimensions of existing windows should not be altered.
WINDOW COMPONENTS
HEAD TOP OF THE FRAME
SASH
ENTIRE FRAME THAT HOLDS GLASS
PANE
INDIVIDUAL PIECE OF GLASS
MUNTIN
PIECE THAT DIVIDES THE PANES OF GLASS
RAIL TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE SASH
STILE EITHER SIDE OF THE SASH
MULLION
PIECE THAT CONNECTS TWO WINDOWS
SILL BOTTOM OF THE WINDOW FRAME
Describing Your Windows
Windows are typically described by the number of panes in the top sash over the number of panes in the bottom sash. In this case, the windows would be described as “4-over-4.”
1.2
Detailed Window Guidelines
O 1.2.1 Repair Preferred
Existing historic windows must be retained when possible, and repaired as needed.
O1.2.2 Replacement Wood & Clad Wood Windows
When replacement windows are used, they must match the historic windows in size, design, and dimensions. Wood or wood with vinyl-, fiberglass-, or aluminum-clad exteriors are acceptable.
X 1.2.3 Vinyl, Fiberglass, or Other Non-wood Windows
Only wood or clad wood windows are acceptable in the district, unless the proposed material can be documented historically or is already in place. If a proposed nonwood window material can be documented historically, or is the existing condition, the new window must match the historic in size, design, and dimensions.
O 1.2.4 Storm Windows
New storm windows that are wood or anodized aluminum with a painted finish are acceptable.
X 1.2.5 Style & Era of Windows
Windows of a style or era different than the house must not be used.
O1.2.6 Replacement of Multi-pane Windows
Existing 6-over-6, 4-over-4, or 2-over-2 window sash may be replaced with 1-over-1 window sashes only if:
Ҍ The existing window(s) are non-historic replacement windows
Ҍ The existing windows are located in a location that is not visible from any public right of way
X
1.2.7 New Simulated Multi-pane Windows
Snap-in grids (from inside) or grids between panels of glass that give a false appearance of a multi-pane sash are not acceptable. Raised grids on the outside that match historic windows are acceptable.
X 1.2.8 Altering the Overall Historic Window Pattern
The historic pattern of window openings and their shape and configuration must not be altered.
X 1.2.9 Altering Window Openings: StreetFacing
Window openings may not be reduced, enlarged, or filled in on street-facing facades.
O ARB 1.2.10 Altering Window Openings: Non-street-facing
Minor alterations may be made to non-streetfacing elevations but must be approved by ARB. If historic openings are filled in on the
non-street-facing facades, the outline of the historic opening must remain apparent by setting infill material back from the surface and leaving historic sills and lintels in place. Historic openings on non-street facing facades may be blocked by attaching shutters in a closed position to maintain the appearance of a window.
X 1.2.11 New Window Openings: Street-facing
New window openings are not recommended on primary or street-facing elevations. If a new window opening is proposed, it should match the existing window openings as much as possible and must be in keeping with the existing window pattern.
O 1.2.12 New Window Openings: Nonstreet-facing
If there is no visibility from any public right of way, a new window may be installed. New windows should match the existing window openings as much as possible.
O 1.2.13 Altering Non-historic Window Openings
If a window opening is non-historic, it may either be altered to match the existing historic windows and openings or be a similar but simplified version. Non-historic openings may also be removed and infilled.
O 1.2.14
Altering Low-to-the-floor Historic Window Openings Due to Code Requirements
If the building code requires window openings to be altered for safety reasons, because they are too close to floor level, the preferred solution is to replace the existing glass with safety (tempered) glass. If this does not meet code, staff will work with the applicant and building code officials to find a solution that may then be staff-approved.
X 1.2.15 Replacement of Stained Glass or Art Glass Windows
Historic windows containing stained glass or art glass that are historic to the building may not be replaced.
O 1.2.16
Privacy Glass
Privacy glass may be utilized within a historic window opening or new window if located on a secondary elevation for an interior bathroom.
O 1.2.17
Opaque Film
Opaque film does not need approval and should be applied to the interior of windows.
X 1.2.18
Glass Block
Glass block is not an acceptable treatment in any window opening.
O 1.2.19
Awnings
Canvas awnings may be approved by staff if they do not obscure significant features and are compatible with the style and character of the building.
Roofs are a highly visible feature of all homes and buildings. Roof shape and materials are the key contributers to a roof’s character and, as such, a heightened level of importance is placed on these features.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 The historic roof shape of homes in the district must be preserved.
2 Existing historic roof material must be repaired unless proven necessary to replace.
3 Existing asphalt roofs can be replaced with appropriate shingles.
4 Large dormers that greatly alter the roof shape are not acceptable.
5 Added elements that don’t visibly alter the roof from the primary elevation are generally acceptable.
GABLED ROOF HIPPED ROOF
1.3
Detailed Roof Guidelines
O 1.3.1
Retaining Historic Roofing Material
Whenever possible, historic roofing materials must be retained. Standing seam metal and asphalt were the materials most commonly used on roofs within the district; however, there are instances of other materials being use as well, such as terracotta tiles and slate.
X 1.3.2 Full Replacement of Historic Roofing Materials
Full replacement of the roof with material other than existing historic material must be approved by the ARB after the applicant has submitted documentation and evidence of why the existing roof material cannot be repaired and/or replaced with the same material.
O 1.3.3 New Roofing Material
Existing asphalt shingles may be replaced with new three-tab or architectural dimensional asphalt shingles. O 1.3.4
Retaining Architectural Features
Retain, repair, or replace, where necessary, all historic architectural features that give the roof its essential character, such as dormers, dormer windows, cupolas, cornices, brackets, chimneys, cresting, and weather vanes.
O 1.3.5
Roof Shape Preserved
The historic roof shape must be preserved on historic buildings.
X 1.3.6
Changing the Roof Shape & Dormers
Changes to the historic roof shape or adding features inappropriate to the character of the roof, such as oversized dormer windows, is discouraged, particularly when visible from the street.
O ARB
1.3.7 Adding Non-visible Skylights
Skylights that are non-visible from the street may be approved but will be reviewed by ARB to ensure they do not dramatically alter the overall look of the roof.
O
ARB 1.3.8 Adding Dormers
In some cases dormers may be acceptable, but they must be in keeping with the historic style of the building and should be kept to a minimal size. Other similar-style buildings should be referenced when designing the new dormer.
X 1.3.9 Adding Visible Roof Elements
Roof decks, roof gardens, skylights, or other roof elements are discouraged and may only permitted by ARB if they have minimal visibly from the street and do not detract from the architectural integrity of the building.
Solar Panels & Detailed Guidelines
Solar panels are an important opportunity for property owners to offset energy costs and positively impact the environment. The potential negative impact of solar panels on historic character must be balanced with the positive impact for property owners and the environment.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 The efficiency of solar panel locations should be considered alongside their visual impacts.
2 Locations with limited or no visibility from the street are ideal.
3 Accessory buildings like garages and carriage houses are ideal for rooftop solar.
4 Ground-based systems located in the rear of the property are acceptable.
5 Staff can approve placement on accessory buildings and areas with limited visibility.
O
1.4.1 Placement on Accessory Buildings
Accessory buildings, such as garages or carriage houses, are the best practice for placement due to their limited visibility from the street.
O 1.4.2 Placement on Limited-visibility Locations
If placement on accessory buildings is not possible or ideal, the next best locations are non-street-facing roof elevations or rear portions of street-facing elevations with limited visibility. A sun study should be submitted to demonstrate the reasoning for placement.
O ARB 1.4.3 Placement on Visible Locations
If visible or highly visible locations are the only feasible options, placement must be reviewed by ARB. If possible, panels should be kept back from the front edge of the roof. A sun study must be submitted that shows this is the only feasible placement.
O ARB 1.4.4 Ground-based Placement
Ground-based systems may be an alternate option buildings where panels are only feasible in highly visible locations. Ground-based systems should be located in the rear of the property and must be review by ARB if there is visibility from the public right of way.
SOLAR PANEL FUNCTION
Solar panels function best when located facing south, with less efficiency when placed facing east or west and little efficiency when facing north. Therefore, the most efficient location will differ based on the siting of any individual home.
From an architectural design standpoint, the ideal location for solar panels within the district is atop accessory buildings such as garage or carriage houses, since these have limited visibility from the street. The next-best option for locating solar panels is non-street-facing roof elevations. The least ideal location would be a streetfacing elevation.
Masonry is the second most common material used in the district, and it is used primarily for wall surfaces. Other uses include cornices, pediments, window lintels and sills, and other decorative building elements.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 Repointing is often the ideal way to repair issues with historic masonry.
2 Masonry can be washed with mild detergents.
3 Masonry should never be sandblasted.
4 Historic masonry should never be painted unless already painted.
5 Sealants should not be applied to historic masonry.
KENTUCKY MARBLE
BRICK
1.5 Detailed Masonry Guidelines
O
1.5.1
Architectural Features Preserved
Existing decorative masonry elements or designs that give buildings their character, such as decorative brickwork, stone or brick columns, stone veneer elements, cast stone elements, hand-tooled stone, and terra cotta must be retained, repaired, or replicated in most circumstances. Of particular importance is the preservation of “Kentucky Marble” limestone, which is further described on page 45.
O 1.5.2 Repair Required
Historic masonry materials must not be removed or covered. Where necessary, missing or deteriorated masonry must be replaced with appropriate salvaged or new materials that match the original as closely as possible. When the exterior masonry of a structure must be repaired, the color, texture, pattern (where applicable), and composition of the masonry, and the composition, color, and tooling of the mortar must duplicate the historic condition.
X
1.5.3
The Addition of Non-historic Features
Adding new masonry features on a historic building that cannot be documented as existing previously is not acceptable.
O 1.5.4 Replacement of Missing or Damaged Features
If a historic masonry detail is missing or deteriorated beyond repair, it must be replaced with a newly designed detail that matches the existing or missing feature as much as possible.
O
1.5.5
Cleaning Masonry
Cleaning masonry must be done by the least damaging method available, ranging from washing at a low PSI with a mild detergent and soft bristle brushes to chemical cleaning.
X
1.5.6
Sandblasting Masonry
Sandblasting is not an acceptable method for cleaning and must not be permitted because it destroys brick and reduces the life of buildings.
X
1.5.7
Sealing Masonry
Sealants are generally not recommended for use on historic masonry, as it was designed to breathe; masonry walls are designed to allow moisture to work its way to the outside. Sealants also may change the appearance of the masonry. If there are water infiltration issues, the best practice it to repair the masonry or repoint.
Your Notes:
X 1.5.9 Painting Historic Masonry
Painting historic masonry walls that have never been painted is generally not acceptable. In very few instances, painting may be appropriate when the exposed brick is compromised (very soft and porous), but the paint should be breathable and permeable. Limewash was historically used on 19th century soft brick not meant to be exposed.
O1.5.10 Painting Non-historic Masonry
Painting non-historic masonry is acceptable.
O1.5.11 Repointing
Repointing on 19th century buildings and older must be completed with a soft mortar, simulating the old lime and sand mortars in appearance and composition. A mixture consisting of one part lime, and seven to nine parts of the smallest available mesh sand (to match the historic sand) is recommended. The use of this mortar will ensure that expansion and contraction characteristics of the brick and mortar will be approximated.
Repointing on some 20th century buildings may be able to be completed with mortar that includes some amount of Portland cement. In all cases, the mortar composition must result in a material softer than the brick, or there is
risk of damage to the brick wall over time.
For all buildings, we recommend property owners complete an analysis of the existing mortar to ensure a good match.
The historic joint type must be matched by new repointing. In general, the mortar joint must be concave because this allows for the greatest bond of mortar to brick.
Ҍ The mortar must be tinted to match the color of the historic materials as closely as possible.
Ҍ If brick needs to be replaced, it must match the historic as closely as possible.
X 1.5.12 Removing Historic Chimneys
Removal of primary, decorative, or highly visible chimneys is not acceptable.
O1.5.13 Retaining & Repairing Historic Chimneys
Historic chimneys should be retained and repaired as needed. Chimney caps or crowns are encouraged to protect historic masonry and may be staff approved.
Gutters and Downspouts
On many historic homes, gutters were constructed differently than they are now installed. Both historic and new gutters are a important feature to the overall character of the home.
1.6 *
1 The best approach is to retain and repair existing box gutters.
2 Box gutters on street-facing elevations must be retained or replaced in-kind.
3 Non-street-facing elevations can be replaced with k-style or half-round gutters.
4 PVC or other style gutters are not acceptable.
5 Non-copper gutters and downspouts should be painted to match.
BOX GUTTER
LIMITED VISIBILITY
DETAILED COMPONENTS
PRESERVATION PREFERRED
INTEGRATED INTO ROOF LINE K-STYLE GUTTER
K-STYLE vs BOX GUTTER
GUTTER
WHY SAVE BOX GUTTERS?
Though their use may be unremarkable, box gutters often are key architectural features. They are integrated into the roof line and often include important architectural details.
Detailed Gutters and Downspouts Guidelines
O1.6.1 Preference for Preservation of Box Gutters
Box gutters should be preserved and repaired whenever possible.
O1.6.2 Replacement of Box Gutters on Street-facing Elevation
Box gutters on all street-facing elevations may be replaced in-kind if they are beyond repair.
O1.6.3 Replacement of Box Gutters on Nonstreet-facing Elevation
On non-street-facing elevations, box gutters may be replaced with k-style or half-round hanging gutters and round downspouts.
O1.6.4 In-kind Replacement of K-style & Half-round Gutters
All existing K-style and half-round gutters may be replaced in-kind.
X 1.6.5 PVC or Other Style Gutters
PVC-style gutters or any other gutters not specifically named in this section are not acceptable, even if they are an existing condition that is being replaced. K-style or half-round gutters should be used to replace non-acceptable gutters.
O1.6.2 Finish Treatment
Hanging gutters and downspouts, unless made of copper, must be painted the same color as the house or trim. To prevent the paint from flaking and peeling within a short period of time, new non-galvanized metal, or aluminum gutters or downspouts, must be coated with a galvanized steel primer before applying the finishing coats of paint.
BOX GUTTER
HALF ROUND GUTTER
K-STYLE GUTTER
K-STYLE GUTTERS
K-style gutters were invented in the 1940s; therefore, they are recommended for historic homes built after 1940, but they are acceptable for other historic homes as well.
Some historic buildings within the district feature historic shutters. These are not a primary feature, but they do impact a home’s facade and generally must either work or appear to work.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 The best approach is to retain and repair historic shutters.
2 New shutters should only be added if they appear to work.
3 Vinyl shutters should only be installed on vinyl siding.
Detailed Shutters Guidelines
O
1.7.1 Repairing Historic Shutters
Historic shutters must be retained or repaired.
O1.7.2 New Shutters
New shutters must match the old in composition, size, shape, color, and texture. Vinyl shutters are acceptable when vinyl siding exists on the same elevation.
X 1.7.3 Shutters with Non-working Appearance
Shutters that detract from the character and appearance of the building must not be installed. Shutters must look as if they could work. They must be big enough to cover the entire window when closed, and they must not overlap when open.
1.8
Doors are not only central to the circulation of homes in the district, but also a key marker of historic architectural styles.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 The best approach is to retain and repair existing doors and trim.
2 Street-facing door openings must not be altered.
3 Historic doors may be fixed in place if needed for interior functionality.
4 New doors in new openings should match historic doors or be similar but simplified.
O
1.8
Detailed Doors Guidelines
1.8.1 Retain & Repair
Whenever possible, the building’s historic door(s) and door trim must be retained and/or repaired. Any historic hardware on the door must also be repaired or retained whenever possible.
O 1.8.2 New Matching Doors in Historic Openings
If a new replacement door is required in an historic opening, the size, proportion, shape, and configuration of the historic door must be duplicated as closely as possible. If no historic door is present, historic buildings of a similar type, style, and date of construction should be referenced to determine the appropriate style.
X 1.8.3 Changes to Street-facing Historic Door Openings
Historic door openings must not be reduced, enlarged, or filled in on street-facing facades. Historic transoms must be retained.
O 1.8.4 Fixing Historic Doors in Place
If interior design changes dictate the need to close a historic door openings, the door may be fixed in place so as to retain the historic appearance.
O 1.8.5 Changes to Non-street-facing Historic Door Openings
Historic openings on non-street-facing elevations may be infilled, though it is not recommended. When infilling a non-streetfacing door, the outline of the historic opening must remain apparent by setting infill material back from the surface and leaving historic sills and lintels in place.
O 1.8.6 New Openings & New Doors
In instances where new doors are proposed where there are no existing openings, the new doors may either match the existing historic doors or be similar but simplified versions of the existing historic doors. If no historic door is present, historic buildings of a similar type, style, and date of construction should be referenced to determine the appropriate style of door. New openings must be of the same size and at the same height as existing openings.
O 1.8.7 Altering Non-historic
Openings
If a door opening is non-historic, it may either be altered to match the existing historic doors and openings or be a similar but simplified version. Non-historic openings may also be removed and infilled.
Porches and Decks
Porches are central and distinctive features that have a large impact on the appearance of historic homes. Decks are often non-historic features that are important, useful features for today’s homeowners.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 The best approach is to retain and repair existing porches and porch components.
2 New code compliant railings may be added; historic must be left in place.
3 New porches must reference existing historic porches from similar homes.
4 New ADA-accessible ramps should use the same materials as existing porches.
5 New decks can be added on non-streetfacing elevations.
Detailed Porches and Decks Guidelines
O 1.9.1 Historic Porches Must be Retained
Historic porches, including their components such as railings and posts, must be retained and repaired. If individual components are deteriorated beyond repair, they must be replaced to match.
O 1.9.2 Code-compliant Railings
If existing historic railings are not codecompliant, the existing historic railings should remain in place and new compliant railings added behind or above. New compliant railings should either match the historic railings or be simplified, and materials should be compatible.
O ARB 1.9.3 Adding New Porches
When a new porch is added where one does not exist, the porch must be compatible with the architectural character of the building. The size, scale, and materials, as well as the detailing of the components of the porch — including roofs, railings, and trim — must be compatible with the existing building and should reference historic buildings of a similar type, style, and date of construction.
O 1.9.4 New Deck on Non-street-facing Elevations
Decks on the rear and side elevations of a structure are permissible.
X 1.9.5 New Deck on Street Facing Elevation
New decks are not acceptable on streetfacing elevations.
O 1.9.6 ADA-accessible Ramps
The material and design of new exterior ADA-accessible ramps must be as compatible with the existing building as possible. New ramps should match existing materials, such as wood or concrete, and should create as little visual impact as possible.
O 1.9.7 Altering Previously Altered Historic Porches
Historic porches that have been altered with non-historic components may be changed to reflect a more compatible design. Historic porches of a similar type, style, or date of construction should be referenced for guidance.
The site features of properties within the Special Capital District may have significance that is important to preserve.
1 The best approach is to retain and repair historic features like walls and fences.
2 New front yard fencing must be 4 ft. or less.
3 New side- and rear-yard fencing must be 6 feet or less.
4 Small scale planting changes do not require review.
5 The removal of large healthy trees is discouraged.
Unique Feature: “Kentucky Marble”
One of the most distinctive physical features of the Special Capital District is the use of “Kentucky Marble” that can be found in foundations and retaining walls throughout. The term “Kentucky Marble” or “Kentucky River Marble” refers to two distinctive local materials that have been used throughout the district and in several prominent buildings within Frankfort.
Most Common: Tyrone Limestone (Lower Birdseye)
This type of limestone is found in the Inner Bluegrass region along the Kentucky River. Its appearance is a dense light gray to gray with crystalline calcite scattered throughout. Importantly, it weathers white, giving it a distinctive appearance. The darker calcite gives it the “birdseye” moniker.
Secondary: Oregon Limestone
This type of limestone is also found in the Inner Bluegrass region along the Kentucky River. It is a finegrained gray to cream-colored limestone generally quarried in Fayette County. The stone does not weather white to the same extent as the Tyrone Limestone and does not have as distinctive of an appearance.
Locations Used: Ҍ Old State House Walls Ҍ Old Capitol Hotel
Old Penitentiary
Distilleries along the river
Residences (foundations, walls, and landscaping)
Locations Used: Ҍ Old State House columns
Boone Monument at Frankfort Cemetery
*Source: Kentucky Paleontological Society via University of Kentucky
Old State Capital “Kentucky Marble”
“Kentucky Marble” Foundation & Porch Columns
1.10 Detailed Site Features Guidelines
O1.10.1 Retain Existing Historic Walls & Fences
Existing wrought iron or cast iron fences and masonry walls must be repaired and retained whenever possible. It is particularly important to maintain limestone walls known locally as “Kentucky Marble” (see previous page) due to their unique local character.
O 1.10.2 New Front-yard Fences
In front yards, new fence materials must be masonry (stone or brick), decorative metal, wood, or vinyl, and must be no more than 4 ft. in height. Picket fencing must have no more than a 4” separation between pickets.
O1.10.3 New Side- and Rear-Yard Fences
Side yards begin adjacent to the front wall of the building and continue to the back wall of the building. New fencing for side yards must be no more than 4ft. in height from the front wall for the first 20 ft., and then it may be a maximum of 6 ft. in height. All side- and rearlot fencing must be masonry (stone or brick), decorative metal, wood, or vinyl. Fencing in the rear yard (behind the back wall of the building) must be no more than 6 ft. in height. Picket fencing must have no more than a 4” separation between pickets. Chain link fencing is only acceptable in rear yards.
X 1.10.4 Chain Link Fencing
Chain link fencing is not acceptable in any location.
O 1.10.5 Tree Maintenance & Removal
Large trees on private property along the streets and sidewalks contribute to an “avenue” effect. The continuation of this precedent is encouraged. Periodic maintenance must be carried out to ensure the proper health and appearance of landscaping. The removal of trees where they contribute to the continuity of street trees is discouraged unless they are dying or unsafe.
O 1.10.6 Landscaping & Plantings
Whenever possible, existing historic walkways or garden ornaments must be retained and repaired. Landscaping consistent with the historic area and compatible with the architecture is encouraged. Small-scale changes such as new plantings do not need review or approval. Large-scale changes such as new walkways, patios, or a major overhaul to over half of the landscaped area of the property must be submitted for approval.
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1.10.7 Ground Surfaces
Ground surface materials, such as paving, ground cover planting, terraces, etc., must be compatible with the existing and adjacent
Historic Retaining Wall
“Kentucky Marble” Walls
sites, existing site conditions, and the character of the building. Use of materials compatible with the existing public sidewalks is encouraged.
The use of ground surfaces that vary significantly from the surrounding conditions, that do not fit the site configuration, or that detract from the character of the building are discouraged. For example, front yards that have extensive paving materials with little grass or plantings should be avoided. Hard-surfaced paving, such as sidewalks, should not conflict in character with adjacent sidewalk materials.
O1.10.8 Preserving Historic Driveways
The district has a number of early ribbon driveways composed of two strips of concrete separated by grass that remains. Their preservation is encouraged.
O 1.10.9 New Driveways
The district is primarily served by off-street parking. New curb cuts and driveways have the potential to negatively impact the overall character of the block and are discouraged. Factors that impact whether new curb cuts should be approved include whether or not
there is alley access to a property and how they might impact historic features. All new driveways must be reviewed by the ARB.
If approved, permeable materials and permeable designs, such as ribbon style, are encouraged. Large paved areas for multiple vehicles are generally not appropriate for single-family dwellings.
Your Notes:
Section 2
45 Accessory Structure Guidelines
Historic Accessory Structures
Historic accessory structures in the Special Capital District include garages, carriage houses, outbuildings, sheds, and other secondary structures.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 The best approach is to retain and repair existing historic accessory structures.
2 When altering historic accessory structures, applicants should follow the rehabilitation guidelines.
3 Existing historic accessory structures may be incorporated into additions.
4 Demolitions of historic accessory structures are not acceptable.
Historic Accessory Structure Guidelines
O2.1.1 Maintain Existing Historic Accessory Structures
Historic accessory structures should be maintained in their original locations. Removing historic secondary structures should be avoided if possible.
O
2.1.2 Follow the Rehabilitation Guidelines
When altering an existing historic accessory structure, the rehabilitation guidelines should be followed.
O2.1.3 Incorporating Historic Accessory Structures Into Additions
Historic accessory structures may be incorporated into new additions. All new additions will be reviewed by the Architectural Review Board.
X
2.1.4 Demolition of Historic Accessory Structures
It is not acceptable to demolish a historic accessory structure that contributes to the historic significance and character of the district. All demolitions will be reviewed by the Architectural Review Board.
New Accessory Structures
This section applies new accessory structures within the Special Capital District that are more than 200 sq. ft. New accessory structures should not detract from the existing historic building.
1 All new construction must be reviewed by the ARB.
2 New accessory structures should be located on alleys if possible.
3 If there is no alley access, accessory structures should be located in the rear yard.
4 New accessory structures should be visually compatible with the primary structure.
5 New accessory structures should follow the new construction guidelines.
LOCATE ON ALLEYS IF POSSIBLE SITING
DETACHED IS PREFERRED
SECONDARY TO MAIN STRUCTURE
AVOID NEW CURB CUTS
DESIGN
SHORTER THAN MAIN BUILDING
FIBER CEMENT PREFERRED
SINGLE DOORS PREFERRED
COMPATIBLE WITH MAIN BUILDING
New Accessory Structure Guidelines
2.2.1 Location Off of Alleys Preferred
New accessory structures should be located along alleys if there is alley access to the property.
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2.2.2 New Curb Cuts: Existing Alley Access
New curb cuts on primary streets are not acceptable where alley access exists.
O2.2.3 Location in Rear Yard if No Alley Access
If there is no alley access, new accessory structures should be located in the rear yard.
O2.2.4 New Curb Cuts: No Alley Access
Where no alley access exists, curb cuts may be introduced if necessary, though the impact of these should be minimized. If on a corner lot with no alley, curb cuts should be on the secondary street off the secondary elevation, rather than the primary elevation. See 1.10.9 for additional guidance.
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2.2.3 Single Car Garage Door Openings Preferred
For new accessory structures, single car garage door entrances are preferred for both single- and multi-car garages. These more closely match the scale of historic garage openings.
O2.2.3 Multi-car Garage Door Openings
Multi-car garage door openings are not preferred because they do not match the scale of historic garage door openings; however, they are acceptable.
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2.2.5 Visually Compatible with Surrounding Properties
New accessory structures should be visually compatible with the property and the district in terms of scale, size, design, and materials. Simplified designs are preferred.
Accessory structures should not visually compete with the primary building. Designs shall utilize a roof shape and pitch that is consistent with secondary structures historically found in the area, or with that of the primary building.
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2.2.5 Accessory Structure Height: Singlestory Primary Structures
For single story primary structures, accessory structures should also be one story and equivalent to or shorter in height than the primary structure.
O2.2.5 Accessory Structure Height: Two+ Story Primary Structures
For primary structures that are more than one story, the accessory structures should
generally be a half-story shorter than the primary structure, as well as slightly shorter in height as a maximum height.
O 2.2.5 Accessory Dwelling Units (ADUs)
Accessory Dwelling Units are acceptable in the district; however, they should be designed to conform with the height guidelines described above. Dormers, ground-level living spaces, or other features may be utilized in order to accommodate living space within the accessory structures.
O 2.2.6 Sheds
Sheds less than 200 sq. ft. in size are permitted without review. Rough-sawn wood, diagonally-oriented wood, or plywood siding (i.e., T-111) is permitted on these accessory structures, but not recommended.
O 2.2.7 Follow the New Construction Guidelines
New accessory structures should utilize materials consistent with the new construction guidelines.
O 2.2.8 Follow the Garage Door Guidelines
New accessory structures should follow the Garage Door Guidelines detailed in Section 2.3.
Garage doors are a key feature of accessory structures. Added traditional details greatly improve the look and compatibility of garage doors.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 New doors on new-build garages will be subject to ARB approval.
2 Repair of historic garage doors is preferred.
3 New doors that include traditional detailing are preferred.
4 New wood garage doors are the best practice.
5 Flush metal and vinyl doors are acceptable but not preferred.
2.3 Detailed Garage Door Guidelines
O2.3.1 Historic Doors: Repair Preferred
The repair of existing historic garage doors is the best practice.
O2.3.2 Traditional Design Elements on New Doors
New or replacement doors that include traditional detailing like panels, windows, and hardware are preferred.
O2.3.3 New Wood Doors
New wood garage doors are the best practice.
O2.3.4 Prefab Flush Metal or Vinyl Doors
Off-the-shelf flush metal and vinyl doors are acceptable, but generally not preferred. If these doors are used, consider a wood-look finish or a color that corresponds with the trim or siding color.
Section 3
55 Addition Guidelines
Design & Placement
The design and placement of additions is key to ensuring they fit within the historic context of the district. Additions should be located to the rear of buildings and have as limited visibility as possible.
1 All new construction must be reviewed by the ARB.
2 Additions should be located to the rear of the building.
3 Additions should be subservient to the existing building.
4 Additions should have simplified design details.
5 Additions should be differentiated from the historic building.
MINIMAL IMPACT DESIGN DOES NOT CONCEAL FEATURES SUBORDINATE SCALE
SIMPLIFIED DESIGN
1/3 OF EXISTING BUILDING FOOTPRINT OR LESS
LIMITED VISIBILITY FROM PRIMARY STREET
PLACEMENT
LOCATED TO THE REAR
DOES NOT REORIENT ENTRY
VISUALLY SUBORDINATE
RETAINS OPEN SPACE
3.1
Detailed Design & Placement Guidelines
O 3.1.1 Differentiated from Historic Building
Additions should be designed so that they are compatible with the historic building, but stand as a product of their own time. It should be clear what is historic and what is new. Subtle changes in setback, material, and architectural details are appropriate to distinguish additions from the historic building.
O 3.1.2 Simplified Details
Simplified details that reference the character of the historic building are appropriate.
X 3.1.3 Duplicating Details
Duplicating details found in the historic building, thus creating a false sense of history, is not appropriate.
O 3.1.4 Doors & Window Openings
Door and window openings should be similar to the proportion, size, and rhythm of those on the historic building.
O 3.1.5 Foundation
Exposed foundation lines shall be generally consistent with those on the original building, differentiated with only a minor jog.
X 3.1.6 Concealing Historic Features
Additions should be located so that they do not conceal, destroy, or require removal of important historic features of the historic building. Additions that require removal of character-defining features, such as a stained glass windows or chimneys, are not acceptable.
O 3.1.7 Located on the Rear
Additions should be located on the rear elevation or at the rear quarter of a side elevation to ensure minimal visibility from the street.
O 3.1.8 Subordinate to the Historic Building
Additions should be subordinate to the historic building so as not to visually detract from the building or streetscape.
O 3.1.9 Size: Subservient to the Existing Building
The size of an addition should be limited so that it does not diminish or visually detract from the existing building or streetscape. Additions should be less than the building’s original footprint.
O 3.1.10 Limited Visibility
The addition should have limited visibility from the primary street.
O 3.1.11 Designed for Future Removal
Additions should be located so that they can be removed in the future without causing damage to the historic features of the historic building.
O 3.1.12 Utilize Connectors or Hyphens
Connectors or hyphens are small additions that connect a historic building to an accessory structure or new addition. They can be a good way to approach adding additional space with minimal impact and are encouraged.
X 3.1.13 Replaces the Primary Entry
A new addition that replaces or changes the orientation of the primary entry is not acceptable.
X 3.1.14 Dramatically Altering Open Space
Additions should be designed so that they do not dramatically alter the relationship of open to occupied space on a property.
Addition materials are flexible within the district but should align with the historic building. New windows and doors should be simple versions of existing historic windows and doors.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 Wood or fiber cement siding are preferred.
2 New windows should be simple versions of historic windows.
3 New doors should be simple versions of historic doors.
4 All addition materials must be approved by ARB.
Detailed Addition Materials Guidelines
O3.2.1 Siding: Existing Frame Structure
On an existing frame structure, new siding should match the existing siding, including materials, dimensions, and color.
O3.2.2 Wood or Fiber Cement Siding:
Existing Masonry Structure
For an addition on a masonry structure, new wood or fiber cement siding is preferred.
O3.2.3 Vinyl, Composite, or Engineered:
Existing Masonry Structure
For an addition on a masonry structure, new vinyl, composite, or engineered siding is not preferred but is acceptable.
O3.2.4 Masonry
New masonry is generally only appropriate when being added to an existing masonry structure. New masonry should be compatible with the existing masonry but may be differentiated.
O 3.2.5 New Windows
Wood or wood with vinyl, fiberglass, or aluminum clad exteriors are acceptable. New windows should generally be simple. Simulated divided lite windows are discouraged and, if used, should utilize raised grids on the outside.
O 3.2.6 New Doors
New doors should be similar but simplified versions of the existing historic doors. If no historic door is present, historic buildings of a similar type, style, and date of construction should be referenced to determine the appropriate style. New openings should be a similar size as other existing openings.
Section 4
New Build Guidelines
63
New buildings in the Special Capital District should have a consistent scale and proportion to other buildings in the area. The massing, height, and width should relate to other adjacent buildings.
4.1
Detailed Scale
ARB 4.1.1 Height
The height of new buildings in the district should be relatively consistent with adjacent existing historic buildings. Exceptions may be made for larger buildings on corners; however, they should generally not be more than one story taller than nearby historic buildings.
ARB 4.1.2 Width
The width of new buildings should be relatively consistent with nearby historic buildings, as well as with historic lot sizes.
ARB 4.1.3 Massing
The existing relationship between the width and height of the street front elevation(s) of the building(s) in the immediate area should be maintained.
ARB 4.1.4 Rhythm
In architecture, rhythm refers to the repetition of patterns, shapes, forms, elements, and colors. The overall rhythm of a block should be maintained.
4.2 Form & Features
The form and features of new buildings in the Special Capital District should be compatible with existing historic buildings in the area. Existing historic buildings should be referenced.
Detailed Form & Features
ARB 4.2.1 Overall Form
Designs should use a building form that has a similar complexity to those within its immediate vicinity. Simplicity in design is preferred over complex designs using nonhistoric features.
ARB 4.2.2
Ratio of Solid Wall to Openings
Traditional ratios of solid wall space to openings should be maintained, particularly on the primary elevation. Historic buildings within the district should be referenced to ensure compatibility.
ARB 4.2.3 Window & Doors Opening
Window and door openings should be compatible with those on surrounding buildings in placement, spacing, scale, proportion, and size. Windows with vertical emphasis are preferred.
ARB 4.2.4 Roof Forms
Roof forms similar to historic buildings present in the area should be used. The roof pitch and shape shall be appropriately scaled to the building and neighboring structures.
ARB 4.2.5 Other Elements
Historic buildings in the area should be referenced for elements such as porches, which help define the overall aesthetic of the district.
Within the Special Capital District, new construction can generally use contemporary materials within a traditional scale and form. The following section defines the appropriate materials for new builds.
1 The best approach is to utilize traditional materials and forms.
2 New wood or fiber cement siding or masonry is preferred.
3 New materials should attempt to match traditional dimensions.
4 New windows must be wood or wood clad with aluminum, fiberglass, or vinyl.
5 New roofing should be asphalt shingles or standing seam metal.
4.3 Detailed Materials
O3.2.1 New Siding Dimensions
New siding should generally follow the dimensions of historic sidings within the district.
O3.2.2 Wood or Fiber Cement Siding
Preferred
New wood or fiber cement siding is preferred.
O
3.2.3 Vinyl, Composite, or Engineered:
Existing Masonry Structure
New vinyl, composite, or engineered siding is acceptable, but not preferred.
O 3.2.4 Masonry
New masonry, such as brick or stone, is a preferred. New masonry should be compatible with the historic masonry, but may be differentiated.
O3.2.5 New Wood or Clad Wood Windows
New windows of wood or wood with vinyl, fiberglass, or aluminum-clad exteriors are acceptable. New windows should generally be simple. Simulated divided lite windows are discouraged and, if used, should utilize raised grids on the outside.
X 3.2.6 New Vinyl, Aluminum, or Fiberglass
Windows
Vinyl, fiberglass, or aluminum windows are not acceptable.
O 3.2.7 Simulated Divided Lite Windows
Simulated divided lite windows are discouraged and, if used, should utilize raised grids on the outside.
O 3.2.8 New Doors with Traditional Forms
New doors should be similar but simplified versions of the existing historic doors. If no historic door is present, historic buildings of a similar type, style, and date of construction should be referenced to determine the appropriate style. New openings should be of a similar size as other existing openings.
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3.2.9
New Asphalt Roofing
New asphalt shingles, either three-tab or architectural dimensional, are acceptable.
O 3.2.10 New Standing Seam Metal Roofing
New standing seam metal roofing may be used, with 15” wide panels at minimum.
X 3.2.11 Other Roofing Materials
Other materials, such as corrugated roofing, are not acceptable.
O 3.2.12 Design Elements
Contemporary interpretations of traditional features, such as cornices, rake boards, and chimneys, are recommended to establish visual interest.
Section 5
Demolition & Utilities
Perhaps the most important feature of the Special Capital District is the preservation of historic buildings. Demolition of historic buildings — particularly those that are structurally sound — is not appropriate.
1 All demolition requests are reviewed by the Architectural Review Board.
2 Demolition of contributing historic buildings is not acceptable.
3 Non-contributing buildings or additions may be demolished once approved by ARB.
4 Vacant buildings should be stabilized and secured.
Detailed Demolition Guidelines
X 5.1.1 Demolishing Historic Buildings is Not Appropriate
Historic buildings are to be maintained and preserved. Demolition of contributing buildings — particularly those that are structurally sound — is not appropriate and will not be approved.
Buildings with conditions that have substantially deteriorated, undermining the structural integrity, may have more lean thresholds for approval of demolition at the discretion of the Architectural Review Board.
O5.1.2 Stabilizing & Securing Vacant Buildings
Existing historic buildings should be stabilized and secured to prevent damage from inclement conditions, pests, and vandalism. Vacant structures should be made weather tight by any means necessary.
O5.1.3 Non-Contributing Buildings May Be Demolished
Buildings and additions constructed outside the district’s period of significance are non-contributing and may be demolished. Buildings that have undergone significant alteration and no longer reflect their historic character are likely non-contributing and may be demolished if determined to be non-
contributing by the Architectural Review Board.
O 5.1.4 Steps to Follow if Demo is Approved
In the rare instance where the demolition of a historic building is approved, the following should be undertaken:
1. A package should be submitted documenting the building existing conditions through photography and/or drawings.
2. Salvaging of intact and significant architectural materials and features such as windows, doors, hardware, masonry, and siding that could be reused is encouraged.
3. Quickly clear the site of all debris following demolition.
4. Submit a proposed redevelopment plan that aligns with the guidelines for new construction.
LIKELY QUESTIONS IF DEMO IS PROPOSED
Demolitions of historic buildings are rarely approved, and if proposed are likely to be intensely questioned by the Architectural Review Board. Possible questions include:
Ҍ Have all efforts been exhausted in considering alternatives to demolition?
Ҍ Is the building structurally sound?
Ҍ Does the building lack architectural or historic integrity? If so, please demonstrate why.
Ҍ Has the building been highly altered?
Ҍ What effects will the demolition have on neighboring properties, the streetscape, and the overall area?
Ҍ Is new development planned for the site?
Adding modern systems to historic buildings is crucial to ensuring their continued use. When adding new systems, it is important to ensure they have limited visibility and impacts to historic features.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
1 The visual impact of any new systems should be minimized.
2 Ground-mounted units should be located in the rear or on secondary elevations.
3 Historic fabric should not be damaged during the installation process.
4 Utility meters should be located in the rear or on secondary elevations.
5 Systems should be installed with removability in mind.
Detailed Utility Guidelines
O5.2.1 Place Modern Systems & Equipment in Locations that Minimize Visual Impacts
Generally speaking, new modern mechanical systems should be placed in locations that minimize impacts. Additionally, if possible, systems and equipment should be painted to blend in with the house or landscape.
X 5.2.2 Do Not Damage Historic Fabric
When installing new systems, use methods that do not damage historic fabric or require removal of character-defining features.
O5.2.3 Install for Removability
Equipment shall be installed in such a way that it can be easily removed in the future without damaging historic fabric. Cutting holes in masonry, or features such as decorative cornices or rake boards, shall be avoided.
X 5.2.4 Installing Ducts, Pipes, or Cables on Exterior
Installing runs of ducts, pipes, or cables on the exterior of a building is not appropriate.
O 5.2.5 Ground Mounted Units at Rear & Secondary Elevations
Placing ground-mounted equipment, such as air-conditioning units, at the rear of
secondary elevations or at the rear of a building is encouraged.
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5.2.6 Screening Ground Mounted Units
Screening ground-mounted equipment from view along the public right of way with appropriately scaled landscaping or fencing is appropriate.
O 5.2.7 Locating Utility Meters at Rear
Locating new utility systems such as water, gas, and electric meters at the rear of the property is encouraged.
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5.2.8 Antennae & Satellite Dishes
Antennae and satellite dishes shall be located at the rear of secondary roof slopes, or on the rear roof slope. Installation on a front-facing slope shall be avoided. Consider screening antennae and satellite dishes from view by placing behind chimneys or dormers.
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5.2.9 5G & Other Communication Towers
When 5G or other communication towers must be installed within the district, poles using historically appropriate designs should be used.
X 5.2.10 Covering Interior Windows
Installing interior mechanical systems in a way that requires the installation of drop ceilings and the partial filling in or covering over of historic window openings perceivable from the exterior is not acceptable.
Accessibility
Ensuring accessibility to historic buildings for all people is of the utmost importance. It is possible to provide appropriate access and ensure that new elements do not diminish architectural character or historic features.
1 Accessibility features should be located in the least visible location possible.
2 New handrails and balusters should be simple in design.
3 New ramps should be made of concrete or wood.
4 New elements should be designed to be removable.
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Detailed Utility Guidelines
5.3.1 Designed with Minimal Impacts
New accessibility elements should have as little impact on the historic fabric of the building as possible. They should be designed and installed so that they do not require removal of character-defining features. It is not appropriate to install ramps or other means of access that require changes to the original entry or porch.
O 5.3.2 Locate in Least Visible Location
Possible
Ramps and other accessibility features should be placed in a location with the least visibility from the street.
O5.3.3 Designed to be Removable
New elements should be designed and installed so that they can be removed in the future without damaging historic fabric. In instances where installation of new elements requires construction over an existing stoop or porch, the existing stoop or porch shall be retained below.
O 5.3.4 Wood or Concrete Ramps
Wood or concrete ramps that have simple, non-intrusive detailing are most appropriate. Wood ramps should be stained or painted to better blend into the landscape.
X 5.3.5 Metal Ramps or Other Materials
Metal ramps or ramps of other materials are not acceptable.
O 5.3.6 Simple Handrails & Balusters
Handrails, balusters, and other elements shall be of metal or wood and simple in character and finish. Finishes that blend with a building’s trim are most appropriate. Wire and cable handrails are not appropriate.
O 5.3.7 Lifts
Lifts should be located and installed in the location with the least amount of visibility from the street. To the extent feasible, lifts should recede into the ground or be built into a landscape feature that partially screens it from view.
O 5.3.7 Screening Using Landscaping
Consider using landscaping to screen new elements.
O 5.3.8 Widen Doors on Secondary Elevation When Necessary
Where original entry doors must be widened to accommodate access, entries or openings on the secondary elevations or rear should be used rather than on the primary elevation.
Section 6
Glossary & Resources
Key Definitions
O Best Practice
The best possible design solution or treatment for your structure. This will always be the preference when it is proposed.
O Good
The treatment or design solution is desired, but may not be the best possible solution or highest preference.
O Acceptable
The treatment or design solution is not desired or preferred but will be acceptable if proposed.
X Not Acceptable
The treatment or design solution is not acceptable and is highly unlikely to be approved if proposed. All non-acceptable treatments will go to ARB if proposed.
Primary Elevation
The side of the building that has the main entry and typically (but not always) faces the primary street in the area
Street or Street-facing Elevation
Any side of the building that faces either a primary street or a secondary street; does not include a side that faces the rear or the lot or an alley
Secondary Elevation
The side(s) of the building that does not have the main entry and typically faces either adjacent buildings or, if on a corner, faces the alley or secondary street in the area
Rear Elevation
The side of the building that is opposite the primary elevation and does not face a street
Public Right of Way
Any publicly owned land, including streets and alleys
PUBLIC RIGHT OF WAY (ALLEY)
REAR ELEVATION
SECONDARY ELEVATION
SECONDARY TO MAIN STRUCTURE
STREET FACING/PRIMARY ELEVATION
PUBLIC RIGHT OF WAY (STREET)
Addition
Architectural Definitions
Construction that increases the existing size of a structure
Alteration
Any process that changes the exterior appearance of a building or individual feature
Asphalt Shingle
A composition shingle with an asphaltimpregnated felt base, surfaced with mineral granules
Awning
A roof-like cover that projects from a building and is designed to protect from weather or act as a decorative feature
Baluster
Vertical member under a railing that fills the opening between a handrail and the stair or floor; short pillars or other uprights that support a handrail, such as pickets or spindles
Balustrade
Series of balusters connected on top by a handrail, used on staircases, balconies, porches, etc.
Bay
Repetitive divisions into which a building is divided
Bracket
Projecting support member found under eaves or other overhangs; may be only decorative or may be used to support weight
Capital
The upper, decorated portion of a column or pilaster
Casement Window
A window that is hinged on one vertical edge
Cast Iron
Iron/carbon alloy that is poured as a hot liquid into molds to give it form; can easily be cast into almost any shape, but it is too hard and brittle to be shaped by hammering
Caulking
Method of filling with an elastic compound all of the small crevices, holes, and joints between different materials that cannot be sealed by any other method
Cement
Any material or mixture of materials (such as clay and limestone) that is allowed to harden
in place; often combined with an aggregate (such as sand or gravel) to form concrete
Certificate of Appropriateness
Permit to proceed with new construction or alterations to property within a historic district
Chamfer
A beveled edge on the corner of a porch post
Chimney
A vertical shaft of masonry that encloses a flue designed to remove combustion products
Cladding
Exterior, non-structural finish material on a building
Clapboard
Twelve- to fourteen-inch hand-split boards used as overlapping horizontal siding
Column
Pillar that may be square, truncated, patterned, or circular and serves as a support for something resting on its top
Concrete
Mixture of sand, gravel, crushed rock, or other aggregate held together by a paste of cement and water; when hardened, concrete has great structural strength
Cornice
Projecting decorative molding along the top of a building or wall; the upper section of an entablature
Cupola
Small structure built on top of a roof, originally providing ventilation
Demolition
Any process that destroys in part or in whole a portion of a building or feature
Dormer
Vertical window projecting from the slope of a roof, usually with its own roof
Double-hung Window
A window composed of two movable sashes set one above the other
Eaves
Lower part of a roof that overhangs a wall
Elevation
View of a vertical face of a building
Entablature
Horizontal construction above a classical column or set of columns; includes three parts — architrave, frieze, and cornice
Façade
Front or face of a building; the main view of a building
Fanlight
Semicircular or fan-shaped window set above a door or window
Fenestration
The arrangement of window and door openings on a building
Fiber Cement Siding
A lightweight material that is manufactured to simulate wood products; resistant to rot, termites, and fire, and dimensionally stable
Fixed Window
A non-operable framed window
Flashing
Thin, continuous sheet of metal, plastic, or waterproof paper used to prevent water
passing through a joint in a wall, roof, or chimney
Frieze
Middle part of the entablature between the cornice and architrave, often decorated
Gable
Triangular end of a wall under a roof, formed by two sloping sides
Glazing
Fitting glass into windows or doors
Gutters
A horizontal trough located near the bottom edge of a roof slope to collect rainwater
Hip
A roof with four sloped sides
Infill
Buildings that have been designed and built to replace missing structures or buildings so they fill gaps in the streetscape
In kind
Staying with the same material or items used originally
Joint
Junction at which two surfaces meet
Lite or Light
A glass pane in a window or door
Lime
Calcium oxide, which comes from burning limestone
Lintel
Horizontal structural member that supports a load over an opening; may be covered by ornamental or trim board
Massing
Physical volume or bulk of a building; the building’s arrangement and organization in relation to the physical site and other buildings
Molding
A linear decorative element
Mortar
Substance used in bricklaying to join masonry units; usually made of cement or lime mixed with sand and water and dries hard and firm
Mullion
The vertical bar between coupled windows or multiple windows
Muntin
Strips separating panes of glass in a window sash
Newel Post
A post supporting one end of a handrail at a flight of stairs
Oriel Window
A bay window located above the first floor level supported by brackets or corbels
Pane
A single piece of window glass
Patina
Mellowing of age on any material due to exposure to the elements. This causes the material to look different than the day it was installed.
Pediment
Triangular part of a gabled roof often used as a crowning element above doors or windows
Pier
A square masonry or concrete support for a building or porch
Pilaster
Flattened column attached to a wall for decoration
Pitch
Slope of a roof
Pointing
The process of removing deteriorated mortar from the joints of a masonry wall and replacing it with new mortar
Pressed Tin
Thin sheets of tin molded into decorative designs and used to cover interior walls and ceilings; sometimes used on exteriors in protected locations
Primers
First coatings that prepare the surface to accept other coatings such as paint
Rafter Tail
The exposed portion of a rafter that overhangs an exterior wall
Rail
When referring to a window, the horizontal members that meet in the center of two sashes
Railing
Top member of a balustrade
Rhythm
Sense of movement created by the regular recurrence of elements across the face of a building, as in the spacing of doors and windows
Roof
The part of the structure which covers and protects it from weather, together with decorative elements such as cresting, coverings, chimneys, and other elements
Sash
The framework into which window panes are set
Scale
Absolute height and width in relation or proportion to neighboring buildings
Setback
Distance from the front of any part of a building to the street right of way
Shadowline
Markings left from an original element that has been removed
Shed roof
A roof that is pitched in a single direction.
Shingle
Thin piece of wood, slate, or tin used in overlapping rows to form the surface of an exterior wall or roof; may be laid in patterns (imbricated)
Sidelight
Narrow, vertical windows on each side of a door
Sill
A horizontal member at the bottom of a window
Simulated Divided Light Window
A window in which a single, full-length piece glass is set behind affixed muntins to simulate a true divided light window
Soffit
The underside of a roof overhang
Streetscape
The characteristics of the street and features along it, as well as their arrangement and relationship to one another
Stucco
Plaster or cement applied to exterior walls; can be decoratively textured
Terra Cotta
Fine-grained, fired clay product used as exterior building ornamentation or as roofing tiles
Tooling
Finishing of a mortar joint by pressing and compacting it to create a particular profile
Transom
Small window or series of panes above a door
True Divided Light
A window in which the glass is installed as individual small panes
opening to seal against water and air penetration
Window
A glazed opening in a wall that provides an interior space with natural light and ventilation
Window Hood
Protective and sometimes decorative cover found over doors and windows
Wrought Iron
Almost pure iron that is soft and bendable, and can be forged or bent into many shapes
Sliding Window
Overlapping horizontally sliding sashes
Weatherboard
Wood siding for the exterior covering of a frame building
Weather Stripping
A narrow, compressible band used between the edge of a window or door and the
Your Notes:
Acknowledgments
ELECTED OFFICIALS
Mayor Layne Wilkerson
Commissioner Katrisha Waldridge
Commissioner Kelly May
Commissioner Leesa Unger
Commissioner Kyle Thompson
CITY OF FRANKFORT
Vicki Birenberg, Historic Preservation Officer
Eric Cockley, Director, Planning & Community Development
Jordan Miller, Senior Community Planner
PROJECT TEAM
Designing Local
Joshua Lapp, Principal
Matt Leasure, Principal
Amanda Golden, Managing Principal
Benjamin D. Rickey Co.
Nancy Recchie, Principal
Jeff Darbee, Principal