ISSUE 2 | SEPTEMBER 2014
www.btpb.co.id
FEEL THE GLITTERING
PARIJS VAN JAVA
ONE DAY IN BRAGA
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THE DISTRO, MERCHANDISE FROM BANDUNG
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GOD SMILED AND TRAVELED IN THE LAND OF THE GODS
The City of Art Bandung, capital of West Java, is a great place to visit any time of the year as it’s not only renowned for its picturesque open vista, but the town also offers many attractions well worth a visit.
EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL
B
raga is the name of the street in downtown Bandung, extending only about 1 kilometer from the northern part of the city to the city square. It is a small street compared to Jalan Malioboro in Yogyakarta, or Kayutanam road in Malang, or Champs Elysees boulevard in Paris or Beverly Hills, New York. But believe me, the people of Bandung are very proud of this street.
This small street has witnessed the growth and development of Bandung as a modern city during the early 19th century. This road came along with the presence of Westerners in Bandung. It was originally just a dirt road but gradually grew into a modern shopping center like we know today. The street is crowded with Art Deco buildings, which are still neatly maintained. There are restaurants, bakeries, bookstores, billiard houses, souvenir shops and even lodging. Braga street is now very crowded. Young people spend their time hanging out at the cafes along the street. Life slows down at Braga street. Nowadays, Braga continues to make improvement. Local authorities are trying to revitalize the classic buildings along the street. Their activities drive creative business in line with the strengthening city that is also known as Parijs van Java. There are Braga Festival, Braga Culinary Night, and various other events, which are really worth enjoying. In this edition, we invite you to get familiar with the life in Braga street. There is Chez Bon Hostel which has just recently opened for backpackers, the restaurants that open upright Braga Permai with its unwavering retro atmosphere over time and there is also a highprofile nightlife with disco lights and thumping music all night. So, when you visit Bandung, it feels incomplete if you don’t come to Braga street. Happy reading.
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CONTENT
CONTENT
ISSUE 2 | SEPTEMBER 2014 CONDESCENDENT Wali Kota Bandung TECHNICAL ADVISORY Dinas Pariwisata Kota Bandung, Badan Promosi Pariwisata Kota Bandung THE ADVISORY BOARD Ketua Asosiasi ASITA Jabar, Ketua Asosiasi PHRI Jabar, Ketua Asosiasi INCCA Jabar, Ketua Asosiasi HPI Jabar, Ketua Asosiasi HIPHI Jabar, Para Direktur Eksekutif BP2KB GENERAL MANAGER CHIEF/EDITOR Wachjudiat Ludimara DEPUTY GENERAL MAGAGER/ CHIEF EDITOR Barli Iskandar EDITORIAL EXECUTIVE Mahpudi, Tofan VA. EDITORIAL BOARD Mahpudi, Arie Chandra, Ongki, Leni Prestiani, , Nanang, Zacky MSR, Teddy Tardiana, Ardy DESIGNERS Hidayat Abubakar, A. Saeroji MARKETING & DISTRIBUTION Firman Hidayat, Djaiman Ismail, Deden Nursal, D. Syarifudin Y DIVISION OF TECHNOLOGY Tofan VA, Fredi Hartanto
PUBLISHED BY: BANDUNG TOURISM PROMOTION BOARD Address: Jl. Indramayu 66 Antapani - Bandung 40291 Phone: +62.22.61591010 , + 62.22.7207335 Fax: + 62.22.7207335 Email : tourismpromotion@btpb.co.id info@voyagearchipelago.com Web : www.btpb.co.id www.voyagearchipelago.com INDONESIA
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ROUND UP
ONE DAY IN
BRAGA
CONTENT ITINERARY
12 | GOD SMILED AND TRAVELED IN THE LAND OF THE GODS
GIFT FROM BANDUNG
SPOTLIGHT
THE SCENERY
64 | IR. H. DJUANDA FORET PARK ENJOYING A PIECE OF THE REMAINING FOREST
20 | XIE TIAN GONG TEMPLE AND CHINESE PEOPLE IN BANDUNG
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HERITAGE
CHARM OF THE COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE
FEEL THE GLITTERING
22 | THE DISTRO, MERCHANDISE FROM BANDUNG
PARIJS VAN JAVA
RESTAURANT AND CAFE
60 | BRAGA PERMAI RESTAURANT SAVORING THE TASTE OF FRANCE IN THE HEART OF PARIJS VAN JAVA
CULTURE
ON STAGE
56 | BUJANGGAMANIK, TRAVELER OF THE ARCHIPELAGO If the West had legendary traveller Marco Polo, the East offered Admiral Zhang He, and the Islamic world boasted Ibn Battuta, the people of the Archipelago countered with Sundanese traveller Bujanggamanik.
62 | LET'S DANCE JAIPONG
OLEH-OLEH
68 | ROPIH AND MOOI INDIE OF JALAN BRAGA
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"SIBAYAK" CRAFTS STORE
TRADITIONAL DANCER MASK
TRADITIONAL NECKLACE
CHEZ BON HOSTEL Since the sunshine rushed to the backpacker hostel window, the cold air of Bandung cannot go from my bones and I wrapped my body in a bed priced at Rp 165,000, - per night. With roommates from different countries occupying 16 beds, we greet each other "good morning." I did not realize their presence in the beds next to me last night because I had to fly to dreamland. At Chez Bon, I had breakfast with toast and a cup of coffee on the 4th floor of this tiny building. Good morning, Bandung. Good morning, Braga.
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I spent time at the craft store displaying many types of handmade items at very affordable prices. The souvenirs are very appropriate for friends in my town: wooden puppet, batik, angklung, key chains, bracelets, necklaces, ethnic accessories and other trinkets and even the traditional Sundanese weapon: kujang. The craft shop is located right next to Braga Permai Restauran and still firmly maintains the original interior and exterior design of the Dutch colonial era. The store is run by a family for generations since 1950.
ROUND UP
KUJANG (THE TRADITIONAL SUNDANESE WEAPON)
BUSKER In the 80s, Braga had a very famous blind musician. Although sometimes he performed at parties masterfully playing Sundanese harp, he is more known for playing the songs of the Rolling Stones in one corner of Braga street. Yes, he is the "Braga Stone", who always entertained pedestrians passing there. And now many other musicians follow his legendary path. Violinist and other artists are also trying to write their own history at Braga street.
BRAGA CITY WALK The mall is integrated with Aston Hotel and Fave Hotel. Braga City Walk presents the concept of a cozy place to hang out and to enjoy international culinary flavors. The exterior decorative elements are taken from the Art Deco style in accordance with the peculiar style of the heritage area of Braga in Bandung.
"SUMBER HIDANGAN" PATISSERIE As a connoisseur of Colonial era special pastries, do not forget to stop at the pastry shop "Sumber Hidangan." It serves pastries with original recipes since 1926. The interior of the store is still preserved, a reminder of the days before Indonesia's independence. ISSUE 2 | SEPTEMBER 2014
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KOPI OEY CAFE
BRAGA PERMAI RESTAURANT
Right downstairs chez bond hostel, Mr. Bondan Winarno, Indonesian culinary expert opened a coffee shop, which is simple yet rich in flavor. Kopi Oey interior’s concept is "old fashioned" and it serves simplicity, turning back our era into the past. It serves a variety of food that reminds us of grandma's dishes at home; toast, bread with srikaya jam and also regular tea and tea tarik talua. The food is, like pak Bondan says, Maknyoos!
The restaurant which has been established since 1920 is still maintaining its legacy until today. The restaurant used to be visited by the Dutch meneers. Now 90% of its foreign connoisseurs are still the Dutch tourists whose knowledge of this restaurant’s cuisine recipes was inherited from the previous generations who visited the restaurant in the past. I had the most delicious beef steak there. Shops in Art Deco style were built in the colonial period. At that time Braga was the fashion center of this tropical country. Braga’s elegance makes the city of Bandung called "Parijs van Java." Now Braga street has been filled with shopping centers, cafes and restaurants. There is a Starbucks, Japanese restaurants, fast-food restaurants, but the fashion stores have moved to other places. Yet, Braga now is still busy for 24 hours.
PAINTING GALLERY Artists displaying their paintings line up along the sidewalk of Braga street. They have been doing this for a long time. The paintings usually illustrate a typical rice field of Tatar Parahyangan or koi fish. In the right corner of an alley, there is a small gallery established since 1950 owned by Mang Ade. The gallery was inherited from his father. Paintings with prices ranging from Rp. 350,000, - to Rp 1,500,000, - may provide good options for collectors of the Braga painting style.
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NIGHT LIFE Live music and billiards attract visitors with their charm at night, another breath of life in the classic buildings along Braga Street.
WIKI CAFÉ Unique and cozy, visited by many young people because it is convenient and affordable, making it the perfect place for them to meet and to talk about when the sun begins to set.
IBU JUMINTEN'S SATAY Right in front of the art store Tatarah, we were greeted by a friendly old lady selling satays. The plump middle-aged woman wearing traditional kebaya is Ibu Juminten. The taste of Ibu Juminten’s satays are unforgettable. We will definitely return to Braga street for the sake of enjoying Ibu Juminten’s satays.*** (TT) ISSUE 2 | SEPTEMBER 2014
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ITINERARY
GOD SMILED AND TRAVELED IN THE LAND OF THE GODS “Parahyangan was created when God was smiling,” said M. A.W Brouwer, a Dutch Priest, who was also known as a writer on social and cultural life in Indonesia. It is an expression that combines a deep understanding, awe and sense of humor about nature and Sundanese people.
P
erhaps it is not too much to say so because when you go to every corner of the land, whether to the north, east, south, west, or to the mountain, the ocean, to the town or village, you will find nothing but the endless natural beauty and friendly people who will greet you and say : “Hi..... How are you? What’s your name?”
When you go to West Java for the first time, Bandung should be your first destination. It is located 140 kilometers southeast from Jakarta, the capital city of Indonesia. Located at an attiitude of 768-1050 meters above sea level, surrounded by mountains, crossed by rivers, and covered with forest and vast rice fields, you will agree with Brouwer when you come to this city. In addition, various forms of Sundanese culture and architecture of the Dutch Colonial heritage will make you love this city more and more. Following is a variety of tour packages that you can choose to prove Brouwer’s statement. Some packages are specifically designed for you to explore the enchanting city of Bandung. The other packages give you the experience of exploring other areas of West Java. Enjoy the smile of God.*** 12
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ITINERARY
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BANDUNG CULTURAL TOUR 5 days / 4 nights
TOUR CODE BTB/B&B27
TOUR CONDITIONS PACKAGE NOT INCLUDED
- Deluxe Accomodation with twin or double - Recreation pass - Breakfast, lunch, & dinner - Professional guide - Refrence books - Mini van transportation
DAY 1 ARRIVAL BANDUNG Arrive in railway station Bandung and transfer to your hotel. Free for leisure.
DAY 2 COURSE CLASS ( B – L – D ) After breakfast you are visiting Art Studio, where you can watching and learn Sundanese dance and traditional music. You may choose which courses will take.
DAY 3 COURSE CLASS ( B – L – D ) Course at 09.00 – 12.00 you could enjoy your time by travel round Bandung such as Merdeka Building, Braga Street and Shopping Mall.
DAY 4 COURSE CLASS ( B – L – D ) After course and lunch you will visit a show Traditional Angklung music of West Java, where you can play by guidance of children.
DAY 5 TANGKUBAN PARAHU – CIATER ( B – L – D ) Today is trip to Tangkuban Parahu crater at North of Bandung, in this area you can trek tropical rain forest to reach main crater of Kawah Ratu. Continue to Ciater hot spring resort, where you may enjoy swim or just soak in sulfur hot water. Afterward then back for your last course.
DAY 6 BANDUNG – NEXT DESTINATION ( B ) After breakfast to railway station for your departure to next destination.
Address: Jl. Indramayu 66 Antapani - Bandung 40291 Phone: +62.22.61591010 , + 62.22.7207335 Fax: + 62.22.7207335 Email : tourismpromotion@btpb.co.id info@voyagearchipelago.com Web : www.btpb.co.id www.voyagearchipelago.com INDONESIA
Smile of
Bandung
3 days 2 nights
TOUR CODE BTB/B&B14
TOUR CONDITIONS PACKAGE INCLUDED
- Deluxe Accomodation with twin or double - Recreation pass - Breakfast, lunch, & dinner - Professional guide - refrence books - Mini van transportation
West Java (Indonesian: Jawa Barat) is a province of Indonesia. It is located in the western part of the island of Java and its capital and largest urban center is Bandung. Bandung also known as Paris van Java. This city has something that makes it more stylish rather than other cities in Indonesia. In Bandung, the people have more space to express themselves and show their personality. If we had a walk in Bandung we felt like we were not walking in Indonesia. It just felt different. Being creative is well accepted in Bandung, as I said previously it is expressed in the way the people dress, which is very dramatically. You just don’t find a person that is not stylish in Bandung. Simply said, they all seem to dress-up. Besides clothes, they are also well known for being very creative in the kitchen. DAY 1 JAKARTA - BANDUNG Upon arrival at Soekarno – Hatta Airport meeting sevice by our guide then transfer to Bandung via Bogor stop over at “Bogor Botanical Garden”. S tay for overnight at hotel in Bandung.
Address: Jl. Indramayu 66 Antapani - Bandung 40291 Phone: +62.22.61591010 , + 62.22.7207335 Fax: + 62.22.7207335 Email : tourismpromotion@btpb.co.id info@voyagearchipelago.com Web : www.btpb.co.id www.voyagearchipelago.com INDONESIA
DAY 2 BANDUNG COUNTRYSIDE After breakfast visit Mt. Tangkuban Parahu Volcano and Ciater Hot Spring, some 28 kilometers from the city center. There is a whole series of craters to walk around and even down into, where sulfurous steam gurgles out of muddy fissures in the earth.
Nearby Ciater Hot Spring Restaurant, afterward back to Bandung then visit “Cihampelas Jeans Street” offering you dress made from jeans. The next destination watching Saung Angklung Mang Udjo at Padasuka Village is a workshop where you can enjoy performances angklung, a traditional music of West Java played by children and wayang golek or wood puppet plays. DAY 3 BANDUNG - YOGYAKARTA Morning breakfast then transfer to Yogyakarta via Rajapolah Tasikmalaya “Traditional Handicraft Center”. Evening arrive Yogyakarta, overnight at hotel in Malioboro the most famous shop.
A Variety of
Bandung 4 days 3 nights
TOUR CODE BTB/B&B16
TOUR CONDITIONS PACKAGE INCLUDED West Java (Indonesian: Jawa Barat) is a province of Indonesia. It is located in the western part of the island of Java and its capital and largest urban center is Bandung. Bandung also known as Paris van Java. This city has something that makes it more stylish rather than other cities in Indonesia. In Bandung, the people have more space to express themselves and show their personality. If we had a walk in Bandung we felt like we were not walking in Indonesia. It just felt different.
- Deluxe Accomodation with twin or double - Recreation pass - Breakfast, lunch, & dinner - Professional guide - refrence books - Mini van transportation
Being creative is well accepted in Bandung, as I said previously it is expressed in the way the people dress, which is very dramatically. You just don’t find a person that is not stylish in Bandung. Simply said, they all seem to dress-up. Besides clothes, they are also well known for being very creative in the kitchen. DAY 1 BANDUNG Upon arrival at airport meeting service by our guide then transfer to Ciater and over night at suite bungalow at Ciater hot spring resort. Enjoy with natural sulfur hot spring water. DAY 2 T. PERAHU TOUR After breakfast drive to Mt. Tangkuban Parahu is a type of volcano rises 2084 m above the sea level on the eastern part of Sunda Caldera. Following tea walk activities until time for lunch at Ciater Hot Spring restaurant while relax and swimming at natural hot spring water.
DAY 3 CIATER - BANDUNG SHOPPING After breakfast check out hotel Ciater, drive to Bandung following Bandung Shopping Area of interest special price such as Cihampelas Jeans and Cibaduyut you buy a variety of well design shoes and leather goods. Factory outlet is a shopping area which offering branded item with special price. Check in hotel Bandung. DAY 4 NEXT DESTINATION After breakfast check out and free program until time to departure to next destination.
Address: Jl. Indramayu 66 Antapani - Bandung 40291 Phone: +62.22.61591010 , + 62.22.7207335 Fax: + 62.22.7207335 Email : tourismpromotion@btpb.co.id info@voyagearchipelago.com Web : www.btpb.co.id www.voyagearchipelago.com INDONESIA
PEARL SOUTH OF PARAHYANGAN Bandung Regency 3 days / 2 nights
TOUR CODE BTB/B&B35
TOUR CONDITIONS PACKAGE NOT INCLUDED
- Deluxe Accomodation with twin or double - Recreation pass - Breakfast, lunch, & dinner - Professional guide - Refrence books - Mini van transportation
DAY 1 ARRIVAL BANDUNG ( D ) Arrive at Railway station / Airport Bandung. Meeting service and directly transfer to South of Bandung is Cimanggu Natural Tourism Park on slope of Mount Patuha, located 1700 meters above sea level with temperatures of 15-22 C free and overnight at simple cottage.
DAY 2 CIMANGGU ( B – L – D ) After breakfast various activities to enjoy easy boredom are held here such as swimming, submerging in hot water pool and Tacking over a path through the forest change from the daily routines. The coldness of the mountainous air and the panoramic magnificence of Rasamala and Eucalyptus forest are unique offering of Cimanggu’s natural enchanment.
Address: Jl. Indramayu 66 Antapani - Bandung 40291 Phone: +62.22.61591010 , + 62.22.7207335 Fax: + 62.22.7207335 Email : tourismpromotion@btpb.co.id info@voyagearchipelago.com Web : www.btpb.co.id www.voyagearchipelago.com INDONESIA
DAY 3 CIMANGGU - KAWAH PUTIH - BANDUNG ( B – L ) After breakfast the rip will visit Kawah Putih or White Crater is 2434 m above sea level. Staying a while is s a great opportunity to share one of Parahyangan Pearl string of beauty. The uniqueness of this White Crater is that the color of water on the surface of crater always changes into white, light brown or light green. Afterward going back to Bandung for your next destination. End of service.
BANDUNG EXCLUSIVE TOUR 2 days / 1 nights
TOUR CODE BTB/B&B24
TOUR CONDITIONS PACKAGE NOT INCLUDED
- Deluxe Accomodation with twin or double - Recreation pass - Breakfast, lunch, & dinner - Professional guide - Refrence books - Mini van transportation
DAY 1 BANDUNG CITY TOUR ( L – D ) Arrive in Bandung and transfer to your hotel. Tour will be start by visiting Runi Palar silver handicraft. Kelom Geulis (wooden sandal) at Cihampelas, Dago Tea House. Continue to Padasuka village for show traditional music angklung of West Java. Played by a group of children.
DAY 2 BANDUNG SCIENCE TOUR ( B ) After breakfast the tour will Omni Theatre Sasana Budaya Ganesha Science Center, Technology and Art of Bandung Institute where tourist will be enjoy performing for 45 minutes. Workshop Wayang Golek center afterward transfer to railway station for your next destination.
Address: Jl. Indramayu 66 Antapani - Bandung 40291 Phone: +62.22.61591010 , + 62.22.7207335 Fax: + 62.22.7207335 Email : tourismpromotion@btpb.co.id info@voyagearchipelago.com Web : www.btpb.co.id www.voyagearchipelago.com INDONESIA
SPOTLIGHT
LIKE MANY OTHER CITIES IN INDONESIA, BANDUNG IS ALSO INHABITED BY THE ETHNIC CHINESE. THEY PLAY A GREAT ROLE IN URBAN LIFE, ESPECIALLY IN ECONOMY. MANY BUSINESS SECTORS, MAINLY TRADING AND INDUSTRY, ARE CONTROLLED BY THESE PEOPLE.
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SPOTLIGHT
X I E
T I A N
G O N G
TEMPLE A N D
CHINESE PEOPLE IN BANDUNG
I
t is estimated that Chinese people entered Bandung in the early 19th century. This can be traced from the colonial policy known as Wijkenstelsel, which regulated the placement of people from East Asia in a particular settlement with certain borders. This policy was then followed by another policy called Passenstelsel, which obliged Chinese people to have a license if they want to get out of the border. The policy intended to limit the number of Chinese people in West Java so that they would not be able to get involved in the business monopoly the colonial government was running. However, the policy did not work very effectively in a long term. When Governor General Herman W. Daendels issued Besluit van den Zommermand in 1810, Chinese people were placed in some areas in West Java, such as Cianjur, Bandung, and Sumedang in order to stimulate the growth of farming. But, it turned out that Chinese people preferred to reside in Batavia and Cirebon than in remote areas. Rumor has it, Daendels had to move them from Cirebon to Priangan area by force. The majority of Chinese people worked as merchant, labor, carpenter, or railway worker. Not surprisingly, most of them resided around market and Bandung train station, which in turn gave birth to Bandung's Chinatown. Like their ancestors, they also practiced various traditions and embraced
Confucianism. Cultural and religious practices of the Chinese, such as Chinese New Year, ceng beng and the like are centered in religious buildings. Therefore, Chinese people in Bandung built temples (bio) in a number of locations. According to records, Xie Tian Gong Temple is the first temple in Bandung. It was established in 1885 under the name of Sheng di Miao. The temple was then rebuilt in 1917 and renamed as Xie Tian Gong. The term klenteng itself is a native Indonesian term for offerings for the goddess Kwan Im (Kwan Im Teng). It is believed that the word klenteng was derived from Kwan Im Teng. The architectural design of the temple is of course of traditional Chinese temple, mainly influenced by the values of Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism. Xie Tian Gong temple is also known by the name of Satya Budhi monastery, located at Jalan Kelenteng no. 223A, not far from Bandung Train Station and Pasar Baru. In the vicinity of this temple you can see a number of traditional Chinese community buildings. Some of the buildings are still well maintained and used for trade and as the place for people to live. Not only you can find the charm of traditional Chinese architecture at the Chinatown area, but you can also enjoy a variety of Chinese cuisines. There are many restaurants and cafes serving Chinese food in Bandung, ready to pamper your tongue with a distinctive taste of mainland China.***
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GIFT FROM BANDUNG
THE DISTRO, MERCHANDISE FROM BANDUNG THE TERM DISTRO IS ACTUALLY DERIVED FROM DISTRIBUTION OUTLET. USUALLY YOUNG PEOPLE WHO ARE IN INDEPENDENT MUSIC BANDS ENTRUST THE SALE OF TAPES, CDS AND MERCHANDISE TO THE DISTRO. IN ITS LATER DEVELOPMENT, LOCAL FASHION DESIGNERS ALSO PARTICIPATED IN THE BUSINESS. EVENTUALLY, THE LOCAL CLOTHING BUSINESS IS ACTUALLY MORE DEVELOPED. THE MEANING OF THE WORD DISTRO HAS THEREFORE BEEN DISTORTED. 22
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GIFT FROM BANDUNG
T
he distro began to appear in the late 90s, and it could be found anywhere. It could be in a music studio, hangout cafe, pavilion, boarding house, etc. Most importantly, it does not need to rent a place, and if any, it must be at a low price.
REVERSE is the first distro in Bandung. It was originally a music studio located in Sukasenang, Bandung. Meanwhile, Hobbies Skateshop that sells skateboard equipment opened its shop in the living room of a house at Durman street. In its turn, the two distros inspired their customers to open the same store like theirs. After the consumers of the distro (usually young people) have been able to open their own shops, the market widened out of town. It can be said that if you want a particular item, then you have to go to Bandung to get it. In the early 2000s distro’s products throughout Indonesia had to be transported from Bandung. Now similar items can also be made in Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Surabaya, Medan and even small cities or towns in Indonesia. But in terms of design and quality, the products of Bandung have always been a trend-setter. Sustaining business distribution is very dependent on the strength of the brand itself and on how much effort the brand owner put to maintain the existing trend. They are immersed in the brand because it does not follow the trends, particularly the dynamic trend of young people. Distros in Bandung can be found around Trunojoyo and Sultan Agung. There are also some distros outside the region, such as in Parahyangn Plaza, which usually offer goods at a lower price. Bandung has a number of distro brands, which could reach 500 brands and continue to grow every year. Some of the headliners are 347, badger, Cosmic, Maternal, Ouval, Nolabel, among many others. Thus, distro is the result of the creativity of young people in Bandung and their products could go international. The distros characterizes the fashions from Bandung and give it character, in contrast to the young people of Jakarta who always dress in well-known international brands. So, make sure you go shopping at the distros when you visit Bandung. It is certain you will not buy one item only. ***
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HERITAGE
C H AR M O F THE C O LO NIA L A RC HITEC TU RE
FEEL THE GLITTERING
PARIJS VAN JAVA Urban planner and author of Semerbak Bunga di Bandung Raya (Fragrant Flowers in Greater Bandung - 1986) Haryoto Kunto said that during colonial times, the Gemeente van Bandoeng had ambitions to build the area into an ideal city in a tropical backdrop. 24
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HERITAGE
T
here were at least three Gemeente activities that evidenced such ambitions, namely: (a) they designed the city as a Colonial Stad, (b) organizing and greening the region in order to create a Tuin Stad, or City Park, and (c) prepare Bandung as the capital of the archipelago. Haryoto Kunto added that the terms Colonial Stad refers to design, model, style, shape, and tune of Western architecture applied while planning a city. Thus in the 1930s Bandung had a very “European� visage.
But that was more than 80 years ago. The Indonesian people are no longer within the confines of Dutch colonialism. Colonial atmosphere has vanished decades ago from the corners of the country. But believe me, if you go to Bandung traces of the Colonial Stad are still to stay in various parts of the city. And recently, there is the renewed passion of both the people and Municipality of Bandung to revitalize the beautiful works of the colonial architectural geniuses. The result? You can now see with amazement architecture unseen of in other countries: architecture combining "in
Harmonia progreesio" between Western technology and Eastern elegance. According to a Bandung Heritage Society report, there are no less than 2500 colonial-era buildings in 1970 in Parijs van Java. Generally, the buildings were built between 1913 and 1930. But that number rapidly declined and in the 1990s only 495 buildings were left. In 2009, the Municipality of Bandung established 50 high-value buildings as heritage sites. Of these, 20 buildings are well worth your visit. When visiting each building, you will feel how the Bandung is full with the glitters of a civilization past.
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HERITAGE
This is the landmark of Bandung. It is called Gedung Sate (Satay Building) because the top of its tower is equipped with a lightning rod whose structure reminds the locals of satay, beef skewers cooked over ember. That said, the number of “beef� skewered on the lightning rod represented the amount of Guldens spent to construct the building.
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HERITAGE
1
GEDUNG SATE
B
uilding the Gedung Sate is part of a plan to transfer the capital of the Dutch East Indies from Batavia (now Jakarta) to Bandung. Located in the interior with the cool mountain air, Bandung was considered very suitable as the capital and residence of the colonials. The idea was first proposed by H.F. Tillema, former East Indies health official in Semarang, to Governor-General J.P. Graaf van Limbung Stirum in 1916 but was only given serious attention two years later in 1918, in line with the hidden policy of the Dutch military which had moved its headquarters from Batavia in 1898. The a first step taken by the Government was to move a number of important institutions and agreed to build a Gouvernments Bedrijven, including a Centrale Regeering where the Governor
General of the Dutch East Indies sat. There were 20 buildings planned, whose construction were overseen by Lieutenant Engineers V.L. Slors. Gedung Sate occupies an area of 27 acres in the North Bandung. It was designed as an office complex for the Verkeer en Waterstraat Department as well as a number of other government offices. Construction was carried out in 19201924 following plans drafted by architect J. Gerber. Construction was done along with the construction of the Post Office, Telegraph and Telephone (PTT) building to the east. Unfortunately, Malaise (economic crisis) stuck the world, including the Dutch East Indies. The plan to move the capital had subsided and was lost in the current economic problems that wrapped it. Fortunately, several government buildings had been completed, especially the Gedung Sate. The building was later used by the Government of the Netherlands East Indies before being finally taken over by the Japanese Occupation (1942-1945). The Gedung Sate was later taken over by the Freedom Fighters in the struggle for independence in 1945. Since 1980, it became the office of Governor of West Java province until now.
Spain for windows, and then mixed with overlapping roofs of buildings typical of the Balinese Meru, and supplemented with a number of aesthetic elements that remind us of the Julang Ngapak of traditional Sundanese buildings. Another charm of the Gedung Sate is that faces exactly perpendicular to Gunung Tangkuban Perahu. Just across to Jalan Diponegoro lies Lapang Gasibu, serving as the main plaza to the tune of daily hustle and bustle. Gedung Sate is also equipped with a garden full of enchanting flowers and trees. It’s not surprising when Dr. Ruhl in his Bandoeng en haar Hoogvlakte (1952) wrote: "Gedung Sate is the most beautiful building in Indonesia." ***
J. Gerber is a graduate of Delft who successfully combined Eastern and Western architectural styles harmoniously known in architecture as IndoEuropeeschen architectuur Stijl. Here, Gerber imported Italian Renaissance style in the main structure, combined the aesthetic elements of the Moors from
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Gedung Merdeka (Freedom House) is located in the street right in the heart of the Asian-African Bandung, has a high historical significance for international politics. Imagine, in 1955 dozens of leaders of the nations of Asia and Africa to gather and hold a meeting titled AsianAfrican Conference (KAA).
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GEDUNG MERDEKA
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edung Merdeka (Freedom House) on Jalan Asia-Afrika in the heart of Bandung boasts a historic significance for international politics. Imagine, in 1955 dozens of leaders of the nations of Asia and Africa gathered and met in the Asian-African Conference (KAA). The Conference formulated the Bandung Spirit Declaration or Dasa Sila Bandung (Ten Principles of Bandung) whose contents reflected the spirit of the peoples of Asia and Africa to escape the shackles of colonialism and remove themselves from the cold war between the Western Bloc (United States and allies) and Eastern Bloc (Soviet Union and its allies). It is said that a number of the nations’ attending finally managed to proclaim their respective independence following the conference. It was President Soekarno who in 1955 inaugurated the name “Gedung Merdeka” on the building formerly known as Societeit Concordia. The history of Gedung Merdeka is not separated from the history of Bandung. In 18101812 GovernorGeneral Herman Willem Daendels consolidated power in the archipelago by building de Groote Postweg (Post Road). This
road connects Anyer on the western tip to Panarukan at the eastern end of Java. The 1000 km road was intended to strengthen both economic and military infrastructures. When the construction entered Tatar Parahiangan, Daendels was so impressed with a location that was once known as Tatar Ukur. It is said that Daendels planted his staff, saying: “Zorg dat terug kom ik hier als een stad is gebouwd" (make sure that when I return, this place has been built into a city). It was not clear, however, whether this city was built due to his words or other considerations. Daendels was known to have sent a letter to the bupati (regents) around Parahyangan to move their seats of government closer to the Great Post Road. The bupati of Bandung later moved his seat from Krapyak (approximately 20 kilometres south of present-day Bandung) to Alun-Alun area (present-day downtown) not far from the Post Office Bandung. Later, the fertile Tatar Parahiangan, especially around Bandung, became a centre of agro-industry development during the Cultuurstelsel era (18301870). The Dutch authority opened opportunities to investors from Europe to open a tea, quinine, rubber, coffee, and similar plantations in the area. The Planters arrived by the dozen and opened plantations in West Java. Gradually, Bandung grew into a city to provide the needs of the Planters, including as a weekend getaway for them to unwind after days of managing their plantations. This is when a number of establishments intended to meet the needs sprang, from groceries to hotels and lodgings to drinking and dancing. For that the latter, Societeit
Concordia (SC) was established on the banks of the Sungai Cikapundung in 1895. In 1921, the Societeit Concordia was renovated to facilitate the Planters who loved drinking, dancing, and entertainment on the weekends. Completion of the design was done by Charles Prosper Wolff Schoemaker. Wolff Schoemaker is an architect and professor at the Technische Hogeschool Bandoeng or THS (now ITB). He implemented the then popular European Art Deco style. Soon, Societeit Concordia was transformed into one of the super clubs in the Archipelago. The Planters’ weekends in Bandung were not complete if none were spent in the festive evenings of Societeit Concordia. The Japanese Occupation took control of the Gedung Merdeka in 1942 when the Second World War was in full swing. The building was transformed into Dai Toa Kaman – a cultural centre. And when Indonesia finally gained independence in 1945, the building was transferred into the hands of the Indonesian people, having been used as the headquarters of the fighters in the Independence Revolution. Societeid Concordia was then used as the building where the Indonesian parliament convenes. In 1955 this building stood to witness the history of furious debate between Indonesian politicians belonging to the Dewan Konstituante (Constitution Council) to formulate a new constitution. Political deadlock threatened the survival of the country. President Sukarno broke the deadlock with the Presidential Decree dated July 5, 1959, instructing to revert the constitution to the 1945 Constitution.***
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Not far from Gedung Merdeka there is a remarkable piece of architecture charming: Hotel Savoy Homann.
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SAVOY HOMANN HOTEL
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s well as Gedung Merdeka, the Savoy Homann is very closely related to the growth and development of Bandung. It was established by the Homann family from Germany in 1870 and named Post Road Hotel. But in time, the hotel is better known as the Homann. As the city grows, Albert F. Aalbers and R. DeWall were entrusted to renovate the hotel into a graceful and majestic lodging in 1939. The project then gave rise to the Homann Hotel by presenting International Style in the Art Deco flavour which was popular at that time. To reaffirm the architectural novelty, Savoy was added to its name.
mimicking the ocean waves with a tall vertical tower. The interior of the hotel is filled with decorative arts ornaments, from the walls to the furniture and to the bedding. It is no wonder that the Savoy Homann Hotel was the most luxurious hotels in the city at the time. It is said that the world famous artists such as Charlie Chaplin once spent his holiday at this hotel. Not to mention the prominent world leaders such as Zou En Lai of China, Gammal Abdul Nasser of Egypt, and Yasser Arafat of Palestine who chose to stay at this hotel during the Asian-African Conference. The hotel has undergone several improvements but the classic feel of colonial times can still be enjoyed in the Savoy Homann Hotel. ***
A distinguishing feature of the Savoy Homan Hotel is its streamlined design
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The Bandung Institute of Technology (Institut Teknologi Bandung-ITB) is one of the leading universities in Indonesia.
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ITB CAMPUS
T
he campus located on Jalan Ganesha 10 Bandung have borne tens of thousands of engineers and scientists, including Indonesian national leaders such as Ir. Sukarno, the first President of the Republic of Indonesia and Ir. H. Juanda, Prime Minister of the Republic of Indonesia. But that is not the only reason to make your visit worthy. A pair of the building known as the West Hall and East Hall will make your visit worthwhile. Imagine, the pair of buildings is a forerunner to the presence of THS (Technische Hogeschool te Bandoeng). It was architect Henry Maclaine Pont who was commissioned by the Koninklijk Instituut voor Hooger Technisch Onderwijs in NederlandschIndiĂŤ to design the THS complex on a 30 acre plot. Construction was entrusted to Colonel Engineer V.L. Slors and Captain Engineer M.T. van Staveren. The first phase of the construction saw the erection of barakgebouw A and B as the main lecture halls.
What made the two of these amazing buildings were the architect's adroitness in taking inspiration from the roofs of the Sundanese Julang Ngapak and Minangkabau’s begonjong. The structure of the building, on the other hand, used modern Western aesthetic ideas where the frame was made entirely of wooden construction making use of the padded bow technique and knotted together with an iron ring. The result is astounding; both buildings have been transformed into an architectural masterpiece of the Archipelago totally different from its origins and no longer East or West architecture. If you are visiting Bandung, both buildings are still standing and are landmarks of the ITB Campus. ***
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Still on higher education institutions in Bandung. If you are travelling from downtown Bandung to Tangkuban Parahu in the north, stop by Universitas Pendidikan Indonesia (UPI).
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VILLA ISOLA
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ts location is on Jalan Dr. Setiabudhi 229, not far from Lembang. The most prominent feature of the campus formerly known as the Bandung Teacher Training Institute is a colonial-style building towering among the lush foliage of the hills. This is Villa Isola or popularly known as Bumi Siliwangi. The villa was designed to be as luxurious as a villa can be by C.P. Wolff Schoemaker and commissioned by media tycoon Dominique Willem Barrety. Schoemaker was very fond of Art Deco values and was not hesitant to apply the style to his designs. This was the case when in 1933 he was tasked by the owner of the influential Aneta news agen-
cy in Batavia to design a luxury retreat on top of a hill in the middle of a vast land in northern Bandung, Schoemaker design called for circular structures. The main building is laid out similar to a symmetrical drum set. Since structures on hilltops are susceptible to high winds or tornadoes, the symmetrical circular design counters the effects of the strong winds and protects the building and its contents. Villa Isola is perpendicular to Tangkuban Parahu with two gardens on opposite sides. At the time, the European-styled gardens were filled with a variety of
flowers such as roses, orchids, and even vineyards. Some parts of the garden had clear water ponds complete with fountains and lotus flowers blooming. The circular interior serves as staircase support on either side, wide windows provide ample perspective to anyone to enjoy the breath-taking scenery of Bandung down below. In one of the rooms, Barrety had a credo carved in Italian (Barrety was of Italian and Javanese descent): M'ISOLO E VIVO (I isolate and I survive). Unfortunately, Barrety enjoyed his luxurious retreat for less than a year. The leading commercial news wire service pioneer was a victim on a disastrous KLM flight that crashed in the Syria-Iraq in December 1934. Villa Isola later became part of Homann. During the Japanese occupation, General Hitoshi Imamura took Villa Isola as a place of residence. Villa Isola was handed to the Ministry of Education by then Minister of Foreign Affairs Ali Sastroamidjodjo for use as a Teacher Training School (PTPG) in 1954. PTPG later became Teachers' Training College (IKIP) Bandung and is now turned Universitas Pendidikan Indonesia (UPI). This campus gave rise to great educators working to further national education. ***
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An architecture that you should not miss when visiting Bandung is the Bank of Indonesia (BI) Building. Located across the City Hall between Jalan Braga and Jalan Perintis Kemerdekaan, this neoclassical building was originally the 15th branch of the de Javasche Bank, based in Batavia (now Jakarta).
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BANK OF INDONESA BUILDING
D
awam Rahardjo in his Bank Indonesia dalam Kilasan Sejarah Bangsa (Bank Indonesia in the History of the Nation (1995) mentioned that De Javasche Bank - Bandung was not directly related to economic activities in contrast with branch offices in other cities, which did.. At that time, the Dutch were fighting the Boer War (1899-1902) in South Africa. The leaders of that time were worried that the war could spread to the Dutch East Indies, and at times invade Batavia where assets were kept in the de Javasche Bank. J. Reysenbach, President of de Javasche Bank proposed the idea to move the bank he led from the beach to a sheltered place in the interior. Of course, Bandung is an ideal city for this purpose.
was completed in 1918 using designs by Hulswit, Fermont & E. Cuypers boasting airtight security and a secure area known as "Repertoire of War ". This is seen from the form of a very large building with very thick walls, well-protected windows and doors, and has emphasis on tight security on the inside. That said, tonnes of gold bullion belonging to de Javasche Bank were transferred and deposited into this building. The Boer War did not end up spreading to the East Indies. In World War II, the Japanese occupation army seized the city and searched the de Javasche Bank building in Jalan Braga to look for the gold. Apparently, the Bank had it removed from the building, purportedly to Australia or elsewhere outside the Dutch East Indies. Some still believe that the gold is still in the country.***
The plan to establish a branch office in Bandung was penned in 1906 and construction began in 1915. The branch
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The colonials in the city undoubtedly brought along their religious beliefs. Most were devout Christians. it was unsurprising to see Christian values implemented in the daily routines of Bandung. A number of churches for the benefit of each community were then built. The churches’ architectural designs certainly conforms their devotee’s country.
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SAINT PETER'S CATHEDRAL
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ne of the churches still in use today is the St. Peter’s Cathedral. It is located on Jalan Merdeka, just across the new Bank Indonesia building and adjacent to the City Hall Park. Plans to build a church began in 1884 when the Western people in Bandung agreed to the name of St. Fransiscus Regis. In 1906, Bandung was established as a gementee, in that is became a municipality, which sparked a series of development to meet the needs of its citizens, including practicing religion. In this regard it was agreed to build a new church which can accommodate a large congregation. The location chosen was on Merdikaweg (present-day Jalan Merdeka), not far from the old church. Construction of the new church was carried out in 1921 and inaugurated as St. Peter by Mgr. Luypen in 1922. The church was designed by C.P. Wolff Schoemaker who adopted Neo-Gothic architecture with its typical form of pointed arch, ribbed vault, high towers, high walls with huge glass windows, and an overall slim structure. Krismanto Kusbiantoro in the paper Apakah Tropikalitas dalam Arsitektur Kolonial Kota Bandung Estetis (2008) stated that the building adapted to the tropical climate by use of unique compositions, resulting in an aesthetically appealing façade. Kusbiantoro exemplified by the use of rain gutters surrounding the structure wherein original Neo Gothic churches does not employ such gutters.
The gutters are allegedly inspired by the profile of the many temples Schoemaker found in the Archipelago and as a response to high rainfall. It was aesthetic as it splits the soaring structure into three sections: lower, middle, and upper.
the work of architecture that does not slavishly use Western architecture, but harmoniously mixes and matches the values of the East, often creates something completely new and sometimes not unexpected beauty. ***
Kusbiantoro added that another element supplementing the aesthetic facade is the curved moulding on the walls. Skilful use of moulding produces a shadow effect, volume and lines are characteristic of Schoemaker, a technique he used in every design. In the case of the moulding in St. Peter's cathedral, its considerations are the large windows and high ceilings similar to that of the original Neo-gothic architecture which provide ample sunlight with the risk of raising ambient temperature. Thick and layered moulding to shift the windows to the inside and produce shadows prevents raising ambient temperature but guarantees ample sunlight.. There are many other things that you can enjoy while visiting this church. As with other heritage buildings around the city, St. Peter's Cathedral is
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People remember the Museum of Geology on Jalan Diponegoro thanks to the magnificent dinosaur skeletons displayed in the main hall. Although not the original, it draws the attention of both children and adult visitors alike. Along with the skeletons of ancient animals, including early humans, dinosaur skeletons are among the media to learn geology.
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8 MUSEUM OF GEOLOGY
T
here is much to see when visiting the museum located not far from Gedung Sate.. There are at least three exhibit categories you can see: the history of Life, Indonesian Geology, and Geology for Human Life. The History of Life presented exhibits of geological evidences of life on earth millions of years ago to the present day, including human presence and ancient animals such as dinosaurs. The Indonesian Geology exhibit exposes a range of exhibits on the Indonesian Earth, from simulating volcanoes forming the Ring of Fire throughout the Archipelago to natural resources found throughout. Finally in the Geology for Life exhibit, you will see how the technology developed to explore natural resources such as petroleum, coal, and the precious stones. An interesting titbit from the museum
now managed by the Ministry of Energy and Mineral Resources is its architecture, built between the years 1928-1929. Menalda van Schouwenburg applied extensive the then popular Art Deco style. The building was initially intended for the Geologisch Laboratory. Its presence is a reminder of the development of science and technology in Indonesian geology. The Dutch rulers are well aware of the abundance of natural resources in the Archipelago and in 1850 they formed Dienst van het Mijnwezen, charged to explore geology and mineral resources. Results of the explorations were generally in the form of samples of rocks, minerals, fossils and reports and maps in large quantities. The sheer amount of samples and documents demanded the construction of the Geologisch Laboratory in 1928.. The inauguration coincided with the 4th Pacific Science Congress on 18 to 24 May 1929 in Bandung.
renovated without changing its original visage. Improvements were made both in the presentation of the collection and creation of a comfortable atmosphere for visitors. The renovations also equipped the museum with additional exhibits to enhance visitors’ learning experience. ***
Like the other buildings fusing the East and the West under the Indo-Europeesche Architectuur Stijl style, the Museum of Geology building was also designed with tropical climate in mind. In this case, the façade of the building is symmetric with equally strong horizontal and vertical lines and made use of spacious halls, high ceilings, and thick walls. The use of marble flooring made the room cooler while vents allow air to circulate more freely through colourful window typical of Art Deco. In 1999 with the assistance of JICA, the building was
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The post office was vital in the social life of the Dutch East Indies. Through the post office messages and goods were sent to and received from distant places.
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POST OFFICE
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eople travelled to other cities using the services of the Post stagecoach. Due to its importance, Governor-General Herman W. Daendels (18081811) built the Great Post Road (de Groote Postweg) stretches from the ends of Java, Anyer to the west and Panarukan to the east. The road was some 1000 kilometres by utilizing roads that has been around since the days of the Sultanate of Mataram attack on Batavia. The roads were then used by stagecoaches and horses passing to deliver letters, documents, goods, and people from one city to another. Post offices and wayfarer’s rests were constructed at several points along the road for people and their steed to rest when darkness came. This is the case of the post office on Jalan Asia-Afrika 47. Originally a stopover point it was built alongside the Great Post Road going into the Tatar Ukur. The location was supposedly chosen due to the springs nearby. Thus the location was perfect to supply water needs for the post
horses exhausted after a long journey. Banceuy (stables) was built on site to rest and replace horses. There was a change when Daendels sent a letter to the regent of Bandung Dalem. He ordered for the seat of the administration to be moved to Bandung near the Great Post Road. Thus the birth of Bandung is closely associated with the Great Post Road and the Post Office. The Post Office is a witness to the birth of Bandung. The building still stands today. It should, however, be noted that the current building is not actually the precursor post office building. The current Post building was built in 1928-1931 by J. Van Gendt. He incorporated a more functional Indo-Europeesche Architectuur Stijl in his design. As a public service centre, the Post Office was built with a spacious floor space and high ceilings. Interestingly, the spring used to water the horses is still flowing. The spring water is very cool and now used for ablution (wudhu’) by the employees.***
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Your visit to the Savoy Homann Hotel is incomplete if you don’t stop by the hotel across the street, the Grand Hotel Preanger. Yes, the hotel located on Jalan Asia Afrika No. 85 is equally luring both in terms of architecture and its history.
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GRAND HOTEL PREANGER
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rand Hotel Preanger is one of the best works of C.P. Wolff Schoemaker. He redesigned the hotel at the request of the owner W.H.C. Deeterkom in 1929. The architect applied symmetrical straight lines in the design. Schoemaker also incorporated various elements such as art deco moulding, colourful stained glass, as well as various forms of decorative art. The rejuvenated Grand Hotel Preanger thus complemented the Savoy Homann Hotel across the street. Interestingly, while redesigning the Grand Hotel Preanger, Schoemaker was assisted by one of his students at THS (now ITB) named Ir. Sukarno as a draftsman. Later in 1945, Sukarno proclaimed independence and became the first president of the Republic of Indonesia.
Grand Hotel Preanger was established in 1884 when Dutchman W.H.C. Deeterkom converted a grocery store on the Great Post Road (de Groote Postweg) into a hotel called Hotel Preanger. The name is said to refer to the Priangan People, a Dutch term for the natives of West Java. Later, after many improvements, the hotel in 1929 changed its name to Grand Hotel Preanger. Ownership of the hotel is currently held by Aerowisata following numerous owner changes. Addition of rooms and modernization of facilities made the Grand Hotel Preanger among the many five-star hotels in `Bandung. You can still enjoy the atmosphere and beauty of the typical colonial hotel, especially if you are taking the time to visit the small museum specially built in the hotel. it’s like a blast to the past. ***
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As a person, CP Wolff Schoemaker is phenomenal. He not only shaped the faรงade of Bandung but also involved with the life of this city on a personal level. His meeting with a diverse range of people, interactions with the architectural features of the Archipelago, and recognition of Eastern values has led Schoemaker convert to Islam in 1934. 46
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GREATMOSQUE CIPAGANTI
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his is especially so since he was acquainted with Muhammad Natsir (who later became one of the leaders of Indonesia) and later co-authored a book entitled Cultuur Islam (1936). Schoemaker then went on a pilgrimage to Mecca and added Kemal to his name upon returning, thus becoming Kemal CP Wolff Schoemaker. Moreover, Schoemaker took an active role in Islamic organizations in the Netherlands East Indies. He went on to become the Deputy Chairman of the Western Islamic Association in Bandung and adviser to the Partai Oemat Islam (Muslim Party).
Mesjid Raya Cipaganti (Cipaganti Great Mosque) is one of Schoemaker’s legacies as a Muslim. This mosque adopted typical architectural features of mosques in Java and combined it with art deco style, creating a blend later known to be its distinguishing feature. The mosque was built between 1933 and 1934. The Mesjid Raya Cipaganti still stand proud and well-maintained though later expansion tapered some of its original features. Nonetheless, Schoemaker’s distinctive style can still be enjoyed when visiting the mosque. ***
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This is where each successive superintendents and residents of West Java reside. It is located on Jalan Otto Iskandar Dinata No.1, only a few dozen meters from Bandung Railway Station. 48
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GEDUNG PAKUAN
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ince its initial construction in 1864, this building was intended as the residence of the current resident. Since the eruption of Mount Gede destroying of the much of the residential capital of Cianjur, Governor-General Ch. F. Pahud ordered the Priangan Residence to move its capital to Bandung. The project began in 1864 marked with the construction of the Residential Palace called Gedung Pakuan. The architectural design of Gedung Pakuan follows the Indische Empire Stijl style similar to that of the Merdeka Palace and
the National Museum in Jakarta. During its golden years, the Gedung Pakuan was used by the East Indies government to host foreign dignitaries. The tradition was maintained during the Asian-African Conference, where the building was used to entertain national leaders attending the conference. Currently, the Gedung Pakuan is official residence of the Governor of West Java. The grace and elegance of the bygone days can still be enjoyed today.***
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Stop for a moment at the Balai Kota (City Hall). The gardens are lush surrounded by a high fence. But believe me, the friendly guards will welcome you.
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CITY HALL
O
n weekdays, the Balai Kota is always busy with daily administration routines. I suggest you to visit on Saturdays and Sundays, where it is often used by the people for sports and recreation. You can walk around in the beautiful garden, equipped with an ornate fountain statue of a white rhino and the statue of Raden Dewi Sartika, a female National Hero hailing from Bandung. But you should not miss the architectural beauty of the Balai Kota itself. The buildings located on the north side of the complex are called
Gedong Papak, a name bestowed by the public because of its flat roof or papak in Sundanese. Balai Kota was built in 1927 to meet the needs of the municipality (von Gementee Bandoeng) established earlier. Architect E.H. de Roo was commissioned to draft the design. Under the shadow of the Indische Empire Stijl, Roo designed the Gementee Huis with a large yard, a flat roof (papak), creating a grandiose monument. In addition, Roo incorporated distinctive Art Deco elements such as geometric mouldings and stained glass. The Gedung Papak currently serves as the centre of administration of the Municipality of Bandung. The fountain at the front yard bears the inscriptions of Bandung’s a sister cities, such as Fort Worth, Texas, United States and Braunschweig, Germany. ***
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Visiting Bandung is incomplete if you haven’t seen the military complex on Aceh Street. Indeed, before the government moved the capital from Batavia (now Jakarta) to Bandung, the Dutch military leaders had apparently moved in advance.
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MILITARY COMPLEX OF ACEH STREET
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he first transfer was recorded in 1898, when the War Department transferred its garrison to Bandung, specifically to Cimahi to the west. In addition, they also build office complexes for the Department van Oorlog (DVO). This complex is known as the Jalan Aceh Military Complex, located right in front of the Hilton Hotel or behind of Bandung Indah Plasa. a feature of the road names here is the use of the names of provinces of the Archipelago, such as Aceh, Sumatra, Jawa, Kalimantan, Maluku, and Seram. In this area, you will see a number of buildings that will remind you of similar buildings in Europe. Among which is the Paleis van de Legercomandant (Palace
of the Supreme Commander of the Military). As the name implies, the Paleis is where the Dutch military commander carried out his daily duties. This was where the command seated during wartime. The building was inaugurated in 1918 following designs by C.P. Wolff Schoemaker, who worked with his brother Rudolf Schoemaker. Here, he implemented Romantic architectural styles often found in the European military complexes, evident from the many tall windows. But unlike other buildings he had designed, Schoemaker incorporated little to no aesthetic elements, considering that military pragmatism severely restricted such things. Currently, magnificent complex is the headquarters of the 3rd Command Siliwangi.
On the right side of the front of the Paleis is a structure no less magnificent, known by the locals as Gedong Sabau. The name is derived from the plot of land it occupied – seven acres or satubau (sabau) by the Sundanese. Gedong Sabau was the headquarters of the DVO since 1916 although construction was completed in 1913. The Jalan Kalimantan facing building is now used by the 3rd Military Command Detachment Siliwangi. Still in the surrounding area of Aceh Street is the Jaarberus Building. So called because in its time the building was used as an annual exhibition hall (jaarbeurs). As a centre of the agro-industry, Bandung organizes an annual trade fair. In the event cutting-edge products from around the world and commodity from around the Archipelago are displayed. For that purpose, Gementee von Bandoeng cooperated with Bandoeng Vooruit to build a Jaarbeur complex on Jalan Aceh. The design is done by CP Wolff Schoemaker. He applied the style of Art Deco architecture. In the main building are three statues mounted Atlas. The statue is still visible when you visit there. And now the building has been used as the Kanto Logistics Military Command III / Siliwangi. Even so, you can enter it and see the beauty of its architecture. ***
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Go to the eastern part of the city Bandung and you will find a prison no less exotic than similar buildings throughout the world. You have visited the Sukamiskin Prison.
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SUKAMISKIN PRISON
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.urrently used as a prison, Sukamiskin is used to detain those who were found guilty of corruption. In the past, Sukamiskin prison was where Indonesian freedom fighters were held, including one Ir. Sukarno, who later became the Proclaimers of Independence and the first president of the Republic of Indonesia. You can visit this prison built in 1918 since the Ministry of Justice and Human Rights has opened Sukamiskin for correctional tours. Throughout the tour, you will see the historic buildings from up-close, including most of the daily routines of the prison.
As the architect, CP Wolff Schoemaker took into consideration a plethora of items, such as security, drainage and waste disposal, and facilities for the hundreds of would-be occupants. Schoemaker even incorporated “magic�-proof countermeasures into this rectangle-shaped prison. It is said that he chose the floor to be made of certain types of wood to ward off a variety of supernatural powers possessed common criminals ancient times. Similarly, the septic tanks are designed in such a way that it could still be used without having to be emptied. In a touch of irony, the architect and builder of this prison was at one time imprisoned in Sukamiskin Prison. ***
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CULTURE
Bujanggamanik, TRAVELER OF THE ARCHIPELAGO If the West had legendary traveller Marco Polo, the East offered Admiral Zhang He, and the Islamic world boasted Ibn Battuta, the people of the Archipelago countered with Sundanese traveller Bujanggamanik.
M
arco Polo reveals the story of his journey along the silk trade route from the Italian city of Venice to China from 1276-1279. His journey was written by Rusticellho da Pisa as The Travels of Marco Polo. Zheng He, on the other hand, explored the oceans of Southeast Asia, the archipelago, to the Near East and the East Coast of Africa from 14051433. His exploits were written by Liang Qichiao in the Biography of Our Homeland's Great Navigator, Zheng He first published in 1903. Ibn Battuta was a Berber Muslim who visited several countries in Asia, Africa from his home country of Morocco. The account of his travels was published in Rihlah (lit. Journey) – regarded as one of the most extensive books on foreign lands from the 14th century. How does Bujanggamanik stack to these greats?
PRINCE OF PAKUAN – WEST JAVA Bujanggamanik is believed to have lived in the 16th century. His existence is made known through an ancient manuscript written in Classic Sundanese on palm leaves. The codex was brought to England by Richard James on his return from a trip to the archipelago in the early 17th century. Furthermore, his brother Andrew James presented the manuscript to the Bodleian Library, Oxford, England in 1627. The document contains a travelogue of a Sundanese known as Bujanggamanik, who lived in Pakuan, a region in the western part of Java, who made trips to eastern part Java and made as far as the island of Bali. The story is in the form of octosyllabic prosaic poetry to the tune of 1785 lines. This method of writing in was typical in Sundanese literature of time. Bujanggamanik’s real name is Pakuan Jaya, a Tohaan (prince) of Pakuan who choose an ascetic life by becoming a Hindu monk. The account written by Bujanggamanik is actually
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a pilgrimage to explore himself spiritually. This is revealed through his narration of the trip. He did not just visit places, but also met gurus, learnt range of knowledge, including learning Javanese, built sacred sites, and meditate absolve himself. In a paper entitled Bujanggamanik dan Studi Sunda (Bujanggamanik and Sundanese Studies), Hawe Setiawan affirms Bujanggamanik’s existence through a research by Dutchman J. Noordyn published in the journal Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land-, en Volkenkunde Number 138 1982. A. Teeuw continued the research in collaboration with Undang Darsa and Edi S. Ekadjati from Universitas Padjadjaran, Bandung. The findings were published in the Three Old Sundanese Poems (2006) by J. Noorduyn (posthumous) and A. Teeuw. According to Hawe Setiawan, one of the conclusions of the book stated that Bujanggamanik’s travels were written during a time when the Sultanate of Malacca controlled trade lanes of the Malay Archipelago before falling to the Portuguese in 1511.
A SUMMARY OF BUJANGGAMANIK A Tohaan of the Pakuan Palace named Prabu Jaya Pakuan; he chose to pursue the religious life as a Hindu monk. Assuming the name Bujanggamanik, he left Pakancilan (a location in present day Bogor, West Java) to take on a spiritual journey to the east of Java. According to the text, Bujanggamanik’s trip took place twice, each visiting different locations. The first trip began with a dramatic release ceremony. "The whole palace was in tears. Every courtier roared loudly. The entire palace wailed. No doubt it happened in Pakancilan. A prince would leave, Prince Jaya Pakuan... " Bujanggamanik is a young man, strong bodied and of flawless charm. He travelled wearing an iket (a headgear made of cloth) and a bag made of woven root to carry a large book (Siksaguru) on his shoulders. He also carried a whip made of rattan. Travelling on foot, it is not known whether
he was alone or accompanied by others. He mentioned each of the places he visited, and some were described in glorious detail. "After arriving in Puncak, I sat on a flat stone, and fanned myself. There looks Bukit Ageung, the highest point in all of Pakuan..." After some time, Bujanggamanik reached the border between of the Pakuan Kingdom and Majapahit in Central Java. "Having reached the end of Sunda, I crossed the Cipamali and arrived in Java. I travelled through Majapahit and the plains of Demak. Upon arrival in Sari Jati, I went to Pamalang. There I was not long because I missed my mother, who I have left for too long. I have to return home." Bujanggamanik chose to return by sea. He went aboard a ship returning to Malacca from Pamalang. He was so impressed with the ship and wrote in great detail of the ship and its captain. So impressed with sailing, upon arrival in Kalapa (present day Sunda Kalapa, Jakarta) he immediately called himself Ameng Layaran (The man who traveled by sail).
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Arriving at home, Bujanggamanik not only met his mother but also a court servant named Jompong Larang. News Bujanggamanik’s return reached the ears of Princess Ajung Larang Sakean Kilat Bancana. She fell in love. The Princess sent Sugi (offerings) escorted by Jompong Larang to his mother. Unfortunately, it was rejected by Bujanggamanik despite his mother’s insistence otherwise. Bujanggamanik requested that the Sugi should be returned to the princess and to be done politely, without hurting the princess’ feelings. Following his rejection of Princess Ajung Larang’s proposal, Bujanggamanik decided to travel for the second time. As with his earlier travels, he mentioned the names
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of places he visited, such as Leuwi Nutug, Mupah Mali, Pasagi, Bala Indra, Paniis, up to Balungbungan on the eastern seaboard of Java. He crossed to Bali by sailboat. He did not spend long in Bali, decided to return to Java and to travel back west. On his return trip, Bujanggamanik visited many a hermitage sites on hill slopes and mountain tops, built meditation shrines, learnt the Javanese language, and grew crops. "Once Balangbungan, there I meditate whilist resting my body. Then I farmed, established a lingga (shrine), worshiped and devoted, praying for the strength of self. " At the end of his journey, (according to the manuscript, he never made the journey home): "After leaving Panenjoan, upon
CULTURE
Bujanggamanik decided to travel for the second time. As with his earlier travels, he mentioned the names of places he visited, such as Leuwi Nutug, Mupah Mali, Pasagi, Bala Indra, Paniis, up to Balungbungan on the eastern seaboard of Java. the Sundanese. Travelling, especially for spiritual purposes, was a tradition of his time and especially true for devout Hindus. They travelled to distant lands by foot or by vehicles to find esteemed gurus or to meditate or to study. The difference between Bujanggamanik’s travels and his contemporaries was that he wrote about his travels. The wellread Bujanggamanik was also diligent in writing his journey. Through the writings he bequeathed his memory to the next generation. Bujanggamanik is not the only author writing about the customs of the peoples of the archipelago. Negarakertagama, written in Javanese by Mpu Prapanca also recollected the travels of the King of Majapahit to the lands he conquered. It also shows that travel writing has its own place in classic Indonesian literature. arrival at Gunung Sembung which is source of the Sungai Citarum, where I stopped to meditate, while resting. I make offerings to worship, devote with confidence. Then I set up a lingga, sculpted an idol, then made a monument. These objects will show the peoples of days to come that I've fulfilled my duty. "
BUJANGGAMANIK AND TOURISM There are many lessons we can draw from the Bujanggamanik’s travels. For Indonesian tourism, Bujanggamanik is an icon who left a timeless legacy. His writings showed a glimpse of the peoples of his time, especially true of
Indonesian tourism also owed itself to Bujanggamanik. He left at least two timeless legacies : travel routes and the term traveller.
yet none tried to explore it into a tour package. We hope for the support of many, especially the government, to recreate Bujanggamanik’s journey. Of course, this is not just merely written words but also to that of photography and videography to enhance the legendary travel. Further, the travels could be packaged in a tour itinerary to include some or the entire travelled route. Second is the term for traveller. On his return journey home, Bujanggamanik arrived Kalapa port (present day Sunda Kalapa, Jakarta) from Pemalang by ship. Disembarking the boat with joy, he called himself Ameng Layaran. The term Ameng Layaran means to travel by ship. Its meaning can be further understood as a designation for those who travelled using vehicles, both air and sea. Thus we open ourselves to the opportunity to use an alternative term for tourism, not limited to using foreign terms. ***
First are the travel routes. As mentioned earlier, Bujanggamanik diligently and meticulously mentioned the names of the places he visited in his travels. Noorduyn recorded no less than 450 places, mountains, and rivers listed in his writings, some of which can still be identified today although others were lost to the annals of time. Noorduyn then tried to put the names of the places on a map of Java so that it becomes a journey map. Many have expressed interest in the route
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RESTAURANT AND CAFE
B R A G A P E R M A I R E S TAU R A N T
france SAVORING THE TASTE OF
IN THE HEART OF PARIS VAN JAVA
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RESTAURANT AND CAFE
Braga Street 15, Bandung, Jawa Barat 40111 T. +6222 42337788 www. bragapermai.com
Visiting Braga in the heart of Parijs van Java is considered perfect if we stop by one legendary restaurant. Established since the colonial period, the atmosphere and flavor of the food is heartily maintained. Braga Permai, the name of the restaurant, is located on Jalan Braga 15, Bandung.
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raga Permai started in 1918, occupying the east side of the Braga intersection. Since 1923 the restaurant moved to the center of Braga, its current location. The restaurant name is Maison Bogerijen. It is said that the opening is directly sanctioned by Queen Juliana of the Netherlands. The Maison Bogerijen advertisement proudly wrote: "Hofleverancier HM van der Nederlanden en de Koningen Zijne Exellentie GG van Ned.Indie. "message that informs even the Governor General of the Dutch East Indies was a frequent visitor of this restaurant. Most of the visitors are foreign tourists, especially Dutch. The restaurant is usually recommended to them by travel agencies in the Netherlands. A considerable number of domestic tourists also visit this restaurant.
Indonesian dishes like rendang. There are also a variety of snacks such as cakes, bread, chocolate and ice cream. At the beginning of the Maison Bogerijen, bread, pastry and chocolate were indeed the main menu. Uniquely, since then until now, the food menu is written in French. As if to say that you are not in Bandung, but at the heart of Parijs van Java. Looking at the photos of Maison Bogerijen atmosphere that has now changed its name to Braga Permai, you can look back at the glory of this restaurant; It all started with cakes with incredible flavors, like Tompoesjes, Ananas Gebak, Almond Speculaas, Ontbijkoek, and Booterstaf. ***
Not only is the captivating atmosphere of the past in this place reserves, but the food served are also very delicious and varied. The restaurant serves food from all over the world, ranging from Europeanstyle menu such as steak and pizza to
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ON STAGE
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ON STAGE
Let’s Dance Jaipong was created by Gugum Gumbira, a dance maestro who lives in the Bojongloa Street, Bandung. He led Jugala Group and has created dances so well known and spread throughout Indonesia mainly during the 80s.
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he Jaipong dance was created in the 60s to add to their repertoire of dances in West Java. It was inspired by the traditional dances that have been around since 1916, such as ketuktilu, kliningan and ronggeng, favorite dances of people of West Java. Gugum combined these into tari jaipong by giving touches of dynamics, loudness and slight eroticism. In fact, Jaipong is not only influenced by ketuk tilu, kliningan, and ronggeng, but also by pencak silat that enriches the Jaipong moves. This lends to the more dynamic nature of the dance. Doubtless, the songs that accompany the dances have also become popular. The tapes of these songs have sold over one million copies in Indonesia. "Daunpulus keserbojong" in particular became the anthem for jaipongan dancers. The dancers have likewise become very popular and have become celebrities. They, like Tati Saleh, Yeti Mamat, Eli Somali and Pepen, have danced in many venues and various occasions. The regular appearance of Gugum Gumbira on a television contributed to the "boom"
of this dance throughout the archipelago. However, this dance faces certain controversy. The erotic gestures are often skewed by a number of people. This becomes even more so since the dance is performed exclusively by female dancers in a graceful and seductive manner. However, its popularity is undeniable. This dance continues to evolve over time. A number of new dances such as toka toka, kawung Anten, sonteng prolong the existence of jaipongan throughout the country. New dancers emerge and perform internationally, such as Yuyum Yumiati Mandiri, Mira Tejaningrum and Mimin Mintarsih. They replaced the senior dancers in terms of popularity. Creativity in jaipong dance continues to grow. Starting with a very traditional touch and Sundanese gamelan accompaniment, Jaipong today is even accompanied by dangdut music. Thus was born the genre Pong Dut (Jaipong dangdut) initiated by Nur and Leni. Jaipong dance is very easy for you to learn. In a show, let’s join with the dancers and start dancing Jaipong together!***
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THE SCENERY
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I R . H . D J U A N D A F O R E S T PA R K
ENJOYING A PIECE OF THE REMAINING FOREST Ir. H. Juanda Forest Park, or often called the Dago Pakar, is a nature conservation area which combines secondary natural reserve with plantations and a variety of interesting tourism objects. Located in Kampung Pakar, Ciburial village, sub-district Cimenyan, Bandung - West Java. The geographical position of Forest Park is on the altitude between 770 masl to 1330 masl. Since it is located in the Bandung highland, this park is naturally known for its cool and fresh air.
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any different species of plants, no less than 2500 species of plants classified into 40 orders and 112 families, grace this park. The spacious park area covers 590 hectares, extending from the Dago Pakar Bandung to Maribaya-Lembang. Dago Pakar is reputedly the largest park ever built by the Dutch East Indies colonial government, a natural conservation forest, initially called the Mount Pulosari Forest Conservation. Then, on January 14, 1985 the park was inaugurated as Taman Hutan Raya Ir. H. Djuanda, and was the first city Forest Park in Indonesia. Enjoying the cool air and panoramic views of lush greenery and the distant forest that grows lush and tall, the park is crowded with trees such as pines, kaliandra, bamboo and other trees that host smaller trees. The park also provides serene natural sounds that soothe the mind, very suitable for visitors who feel tired and saturated with the
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popular are the remnants of the Japanese army bunker cave and the Dutch East Indies bunker cave. In addition, visitors can also enjoy the freshness of the Omas, Lalay and Dago waterfall. There are also displays of ancient cultural artifacts found in Dago Pakar and the spot where the King of Thailand once meditated in this park. In the other parts of the park, you can visit the museum that displays many historical artifacts and records of the national hero of Bandung and the namesake of the park, Ir H. Juanda.
noise of the city. In the park area, we can hear only the voices of the wind rustling the leaves, the crackling sound of water as well as the chirping sound of wild birds on tree tops. Visitors can also enjoy the special fragrance of the pine forest as well as the flowers of various plants that grow inside the park. Aside from enjoying the cool air and the green forest, the visitors are also welcomed to other park attractions that bear highly historical values. The most
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THE MOST POPULAR ARE THE REMNANTS OF THE JAPANESE ARMY CAVE AND CAVE RELICS OF THE DUTCH EAST INDIES. IN ADDITION, VISITORS CAN ENJOY THE BEAUTY AND FRESHNESS OF WATERFALL OMAS, LALAY, AND DAGO.
EASY TO REACH AND NOT FAR FROM CITY CENTER Besides offering interesting attractions at low cost, the location of Forest Park Ir. H. Juanda is also very easy to access. It takes only tens of minutes from Bandung city center and just a few minutes from the Dago shopping area (Jl. Ir.H.Djuanda). This easy access makes the natural attraction a favorite with travelers, both domestic and foreign. All types of vehicles can pass through the gate of park. The park is even accessible by public transport, although this must be followed by a walk about 500 meters to reach the park gate. Forest Park is open for public every day from 08:00 AM to 06:00 PM. It is recommended for visitors to bring food or drinks during recreation or leisurely stroll around the park, because the garden area is quite extensive. Many interesting objects will make visitors feel at home. Roaming around the forest park area approximately takes two to three hours. For visitors who do not bring food and drink, do not worry because in the entrance area, there are many food and beverage vendors. Are you interested in enjoying the coolness and freshness of the forest greenery with panoramic views? Welcome to Ir. H. Djuanda Forest Park - Bandung.***
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OLEH-OLEH
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ROPIH & MOOI INDIE OF JALAN BRAGA
Jalan Braga tetep teu robah teu galider tahan sajarah gunta ganti henteu niru cara nu sejen tuh jalan nu paten hey jalan konsekwen Jalan Braga heurin ka gigir satengahna beak ku parkir pareng macet lalu lintas hese rek mundur duh baeud nu ngatur keun wayahna sabar (Braga Street remains unaltered Irreplaceable by history not imitating others This road is great, a consistent way Braga Street squeezed on its sides Half taken up by parking lot Traffic gets jammed up hard to retreat Oh the frowning traffic controller, please be patient) Quoted from “Jalan Braga� song, popular in the 1990s, sung by Hetty Koes Endang.
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long time ago, Braga Street was a considerably small street in a quiet residential area. Locals call it Jalan Culik, since those who crossed the road are frequently intercepted by a group of culik (lit. Kidnappers). In the 1900s, the street was known as the Carriage Road (Pedatiweg), due to the frequent usage of carriages (pedati) pulled by cows or bulls. At the time of Dutch Colonial Braga very lively because many businessmen who opened shops, bars and entertainment venues. It is interesting to note that this short road connects the residential areas in the north of Bandung to the downtown are. In the 1920s and 1930s, emerging shops and boutiques that sell fashion apparels inspired by fashion trends in Paris, France added to the already lively street of Braga. Now, the one-kilometer road is legendary. Most of the shops have changed business, but some still maintain their uniqueness, including their architecture, which maintains the style of Art Deco
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convince them to buy the puppets. It was a success. The tourists agreed to buy the puppets at Ropih’s asking price, the price that bought him a good meal that day.
architecture popular in the early twentieth century. Braga is a tourist destination, a Bandung tourism gem. Everything can be found there, from inns, hotels, entertainment venues to souvenirs. Unique souvenirs from all over West Java can be found in shops along this street. One of these is paintings that are displayed not only in galleries but are also on the sidewalks. This unique display makes the atmosphere of Braga more "artsy" than the other streets in the city.
SUCCESS STORY OF A PAINTING DEALER Painting trading business in Braga shows another side of Indonesian art history, particularly in the city. A paintings dealer, Ropih Amantubillah, remembered a sad memory that kickstarted his painting business in Braga. He remembered a time when he did not have moneynot have the money. Ropih, who lived in a village around Braga, saw two tourists walking around. Ropih suddenly had an idea. "Aha... there is a business opportunity," he thought. He immediately looked for something to sell. Not far from where he was standing, there was a wayang (wooden puppet) craftsman. Ropih took a pair of puppets from the craftsman, and he approached the tourists and spoke as fluent as possible to
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Since then, Ropih has focused on selling paintings in Braga. From the outset, Ropih’s attempts are focused on marketing the painting to tourists. He was supported by his father Mumu Mitra (1936-1994), a painter who was a member of the art group Jiva Mukti. Even his father's artistic talent was dripping to Ropih, who then learned to create his own paintings. Thus, it is quite easy for Ropih to provide the paintings to sell on the streets of Braga since he can also supply the demands with his own paintings. Nowadays, Ropih is one of the most succesful painting dealer in Braga. He is now pioneering the construction of the Braga Museum, which is planned to contain his paintings and work of others displayed along the historic Braga street.
MOOI INDIE PAINTINGS FROM JELEKONG Paintings sold in Braga are fairly typical. They are part of a style known as the Mooi Indie (the beautiful Indies). These
paintings generally depict the beauty of nature and country life in the archipelago. Landscapes are painted in a naturalistic style featuring bright blue mountain panorama, rice fields, cart path adorned with palm trees, and farmers in the middle of rice fields. There is also a view of a lake surrounded by dense forest and rocky river. In a more serious painting, you can find a mountain with a flat top, which is the legendary mount Tangkuban Parahu located in the north of Bandung. If the painting depicts a lake, the panorama is usually similar to Patengang lake, a beautiful lake in southern Bandung. If the painting describes human life, beautiful dancers or villagers in a market are usually the subject matters. The paintings are usually created on canvas using oil paints. Most are sold after being framed. However, you can choose to buy one without a frame that is, of course, so much cheaper. These paintings come from a village in southern Bandung that is very famous as a production center of art works from south of Bandung. The name of the village is Jelekong. In this village, do not expect to see a painter smoking a pipe and wearing a cap while sitting perplexed, stroking with a paint brush on canvas mounted on a tripod. Instead, you will see young people painting quickly on canvases laid out on the floor, sometimes while chatting or joking. The finished paintings are then immediately dried on the roof or on the floor. Then, these paintings are rolled along with dozens of other paintings. Afterwards, they are immediately taken to traders or dealers in Bandung or other cities, ready for you. Jelekong paintings complement the interior of living rooms in many family homes in Indonesia. The owner of the house is not yet proud of his house before he can display in the living room a painting of a beautiful natural scenery or of the mountains. This is the reason why Jelekong paintings are still produced, although in recent years they are in competition with stylized or decorative abstract paintings. Trust me, if you want to buy a typical painting in Jalan Braga, the painting from Jelekong should be your choice. ***
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Exploring Sunda Land
The charming and stunning land of Sunda stretches from the border of Banten in the west to the borders of Central Java in the east. West Java is not only Indonesia’s most populous province, but also its most productive - yielding more agricultural products and manufactured goods than any other part of the country. The region is primarily mountainous, with rich green valleys hugging lofty volcanic peaks, many of which surround the capital of the province, Bandung. The people of this region, the Sundanese, are soft-spoken and colorful, with a rich and fascinating history. Endowed with natural beauty and rich culture, tourism is also an important industry in West Java.
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