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J U L Y CONTENTS 2015 • VOLUME 12 • NO. 7
features 50 Outdoor Living Kitchens, pools, patios and more
64 Hello, Cuba! Traveling the unknown jewel
58 Neshoba County Fair Get your chair ready...
departments 14 Living Well Unraveling dry eye disease
42 A Day Away Midtown Memphis
18 Notables Northwest’s President Spears
46 Greater Goods 70 Homegrown Fat Mama Tamales
22 Exploring Art Covered in textiles
72 Southern Harmony Catch Mason Jar Fireflies
26 Exploring Books The journey with “Fed, White & Blue”
74 Table Talk Moon Lake’s beloved Kathryn’s
30 Into the Wild Ducks Unlimited’s Bass Pro presence
76 In Good Spirits Just say Sangria
34 Exploring Cuisine Following the fried chicken
78 Exploring Events
38 Exploring Destinations The Beach Club
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80 Reflections A Quiet White
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editor’s note }
july
I’m afraid July refuses to spoil us any longer with cool weather, so our only option is simply to have fun--either near or far. We’re hearing more and more folks are choosing the exotic locale of their backyard for summer. We open this month with amazing outdoor living spaces, enticing families to gather close to home for year-round celebrations. Or, if you’re like our writers who can’t sit still, get out your passport for an amazing look into Cuba. Mary Ann brings us a personal account of her own journey into the land of cigars and cars. Closer to home, The Beach Club in Gulf Shores redefines family vacations, transforming the normal into the exceptional. Even better? Take an afternoon off to explore Memphis’ Bass Pro now open in the downtown Pyramid. It matters very little if you hunt or fish, especially when you walk through the doors of the Ducks Unlimited Waterfowling Heritage Center. With interactive displays and storyboards, the story of the South’s love of ducks, land and conservation unfolds-and teaches. And speaking of heritage, I caught up with Dr. Gary Spears, president of Northwest Community College, despite his busy schedule. When mobility seems to rank high in the marketplace, it’s an unusual day to find
July 2015 • Vol. 12 No.7
PUBLISHER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Adam Mitchell
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER & ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Paula Mitchell
EDITOR Karen Ott Mayer
someone who has been at the same place for 40 years. Listen to his story on page 18. If your beach time or poolside cabana lacks some tunes, then look no further than Memphis’ Mason Jar Fireflies whose foot tapping earthy tunes are as catchy as their name. I don’t know about anyone else, but nothing says midsummer in my world like fried chicken and fireflies. Catch one or another before the calendar page turns yet again. Happy 4th!
Karen
CONTRIBUTORS Chere Coen Robin Gallaher Branch Mary Ann De Santis Devin Greaney Andrea Ross Eric Eckerd Corey Latta Paula Mitchell Charlene Oldham Jill Gleeson
PUBLISHED BY DeSoto Media Co.
2375 Memphis St. Ste 205 Hernando, MS 38632 662.429.4617 Fax 662.449.5813
DeSotoMagazine.com Get social with us!
on the cover The rodeo is one of many events at the Neshoba County Fair®. Established in 1889 the Neshoba County Fair® fosters political, agricultural, and social exchanges of knowledge and ideas. Home of the state’s only licensed horse track since 1922 and the nation’s largest campground fair, the fair is “Mississippi’s Giant Houseparty®” and was entered on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980.
© 2015 DeSoto Media Co. DeSoto Magazine must give permission for any material contained herein to be reproduced in any manner. Any advertisements published in DeSoto Magazine do not constitute an endorsement of the advertiser’s services or products. DeSoto Magazine is published monthly by DeSoto Media Co. Parties interested in advertising should email paula@desotomag.com or call 662.429.4617. Visit us online at desotomagazine.com. DeSoto 9
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living well }
dry eyes
Hope for Dry Eyes By Devin Greaney. Photography courtesy of duneslasik.com
Say “dry eyes� to many people and they may think of that annoying time they spent 30 minutes chasing Visine while on a trip. For Alesa Rottersman Grant of Knoxville (formerly of Memphis), however, dry eyes goes beyond an annoyance and Visine does nothing.
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“It’s like having a contact lens that is folded, creased or in backwards,” she said. Going through the day “is like asking someone with two blown knees to run a marathon,” she added. It all started when Grant was a student at the University of Tennessee at Knoxville. “My body never got tired but my eyes did. No one knew what was wrong or even where to send me next.” In 1990 at age 25, she was diagnosed with dry eye disease, which at the time was a new diagnosis. “All you want to do is shut your eyes and they still hurt.” Dr. Whitney Hauser, clinical development consultant with the TearWell Clinic at the Southern College of Optometry in Memphis that opened July 2014, often sees the disease. “The clinic is unique in that it only treats dry eye disease. We are exclusively dedicated to dry eye disease. This is the only one I know of in the area.” Current estimates indicate five million people in the nation are dealing with this condition. “More and more baby boomers are suffering,” she said. The lacrimal glands, or tear glands, constantly flow with the fluid that not only moistens the eyes, but works as an antibacterial solution. The cornea is sensitive to all stimuli, which it interprets as pain, making eyes instinctively blink or tear. In a tear, there are three layers: an oil layer, a water layer and mucin layer. “If one layer is insufficient in quantity or quality that throws the balance off. If the balance is off the patient is going to have irritated eyes,” Hauser said. Grant can relate. A standard test for moisture known as the Schirmer’s test revealed almost no eye moisture. “Not only am I having a very difficult time working, but I’m also unable to enjoy ordinary personal activities. Each wedding anniversary has been ruined. Multiple vacations have been and will be ruined. I can’t ride my bicycle anymore because I can’t have the air hitting my eyes.” Even hiking with the dust and dirt is out of the question for Grant.
“My raw, sticky feeling eyes are “photosensitive” to sunlight and artificial light. I must vigorously avoid about 20 substances and environmental conditions. But even avoiding all those things most do for fun still does not guarantee a pain- free day. As for treatments, she had the punctal ducts (which in most people drain about one cc of fluid a day from the eyes to the nose) plugged to prevent what fluid she has in her eyes from draining. Like many patients, she is frustrated. The most common palliative care is a warm compress. “How stupid is that? We’re in a new millennium and they are still telling me to use a warm compress.” Hauser explained more. “We offer a new treatment called LipiFlo that’s just about three years old. It’s been used on roughly 40,000 patients. We are constantly evolving.” And in the big picture since they treat only dry eye disease she sees that as a plus in advancing knowledge about treatment of the condition. Terri LeBorgne’s former job as a Memphis police dispatcher had enough challenges without her dry eye condition; but combined with odd hours and working in front of a computer screen turned annoyances into steep hurdles. Waking up was the most painful. “I tried Restasis but the drops hurt too much and it would’ve taken up to six months for me to see results, so I stopped using them. I use a lot of drops” she said. At work, from which she retired a few months ago, she did her best to remember the condition. “I tried to remember to rest my eyes from the screen as often as I could.” As for the person who can be best helped by TearWell, Hauser sees hope for the moderate to severe sufferer. “Those who say ‘I’ve tried everything and no one is listening to me’ those are the patients that we are going to serve best.”
For help with dry eye conditions, contact TearWell Advanced Dry Eye Treatment Center. 901-722-3263. www.tearwell.com
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notables }
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dr. gary lee spears
Never Say Never By Karen Ott Mayer. Photography courtesy of Northwest Community College
Sitting in his office at Northwest Community College in Senatobia, Mississippi, President Dr. Gary L. Spears pauses a moment to think. “Never say never,” he said with a smile. “I never dreamed I’d be President but I love this college.” As president, Spears is, in short, responsible for everything from the 8,000-student population to the 700 employees and all matters in between. Covering 11 counties in northwest Mississippi, Northwest covers the largest district in Mississippi and is ranked the third largest community college in the state. Impressively, the college is sixth largest of all colleges and universities in the state. DeSoto County provides a third of all the financial support and one third of all students hail from DeSoto County as well. Slightly road-weary from a recent trip, Spears reflects on his own path. Not many people anywhere today can say they have spent 40 years with one institution, literally growing up in its shadow. But that’s the case with Spears. When talking legacy,
he brings the conversation down a notch, focusing instead on what he views simply as dedicated work. Long before he assumed his current role, Spears spent his youth in Eudora, Mississippi completing his early education in Eudora and Hernando. “The road to Hernando was gravel at that time. I think they paved it in 1961.” The world was different for students. “If we missed the bus home, we’d just hitchhike. People would pick us up.” As a young man leaving high school, he felt much like his students who arrive on campus today who are simply searching for their destinies. He worked a few years as an apprentice with the Boilmakers Union, following in his father’s footsteps. DeSoto 21
“It was dangerous hard work and I really wasn’t strong enough for it. I guess I felt like I could do better.” He left and pursued a job in a government program but once again was waylaid-by a young woman. “I met my wife Marilyn and we decided I’d go back to school.” Years later, Marilyn herself would end up teaching early education at Northwest for 25 years, retiring when he became president. Looking back, those words now hold particular irony since he did go to school--and essentially never left. Earning a bachelors in social sciences and a masters in guidance counseling, he was the first one in his family to earn a college degree and his first job took him to Northwest. “They hired me on as a counselor and I was excited, both to be at Northwest and to return closer to home after being at Delta State in the Mississippi Delta.” Over decades, his roles changed and grew. He served as a counselor, Vice President of Student Development and Registrar. In 2004 when former president Dr. David M. Haraway retired, Spears decided to consider the position, despite the fact he was 59. “I knew that I certainly knew the organization,” he said with a laugh. Humble though, he never really thought he’d be sitting in the seat. “This has been an opportunity of a lifetime.” Under his tenure, Northwest has experienced significant changes on campus, specifically with buildings and architecture. In fact, his focus on aesthetics became his stated priority with the board and the community. “I told everyone from the start that I would concentrate on upgrading the campus and facilities.” Spears initiated and named the “Building on Tradition” program that led to a new early childhood education facility, a building dedicated for associate degree 22 DeSoto
nursing, e-learning building, a mechanical technology building and renovations to McLendon Union and administration buildings. The architecture speaks to another time, and Spears also focused on landscaping, hiring a professional to design the green spaces. “We want our students to have a nice, safe, clean place to study. In fact, we have one person whose only job is to keep the campus clean.” In 2015, Spears says Northwest will break ground on a new health sciences building which will house the EMT-paramedic, physical therapy assistant program, and medical assistant program. On the other end of the spectrum, construction on a new football field house will also begin in 2015. Beyond bricks and mortar, the college has also dedicated funds and efforts to increasing the college’s e-learning programs. Named the Northwest Alumnus of the Year in 2007, Spears also garnered the 2014 Alumnus of the Year award from the University of Mississippi School of Education where he completed his doctorate. “This has been my life. I’ve just finished 40 years here.” When not at Northwest, Spears enjoys reading history, particularly Civil War history and spending time with family. He knows the next chapter. When he retires, the Spears may move closer to their kids and grandkids. Given his dedication to the many students and kids who have passed through his doors over the years, it seems only natural he return home to family--once more.
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exploring art }
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weaving quilts
By Andrea Brown Ross. Photography courtesy of Karen Ott Mayer
While smothering southern summers make a quilt or textile coverlet the furthest thought from a person’s mind, both weaving and quilting do come to mind when remembering America’s history during this month of celebration. Roddy Moore, co-director of the Blue Ridge Institute and Museum in Ferrum, Virginia, explained the role of quilting and weaving in the nation’s past. “We typically think of weaving during Colonial times.
Every piece of clothing had to be woven. Linen, wool, and cotton were used to weave by hand. There were a few automatic looms by the 19th century in America, but not many. During the 18th and 19th centuries, men were typically employed as DeSoto 25
weavers. They would travel from town to town, staying in each town a couple of weeks to weave clothing for the townspeople. Then they would move on. In time, weaving became less popular.” As manufactured cloth became more available, there was decline in weaving. However, the Civil War brought back a resurgence in the South. “The South began weaving again for a time. Following the Civil War, their money had no value. Clothing, draperies, and other materials had been donated to help the war effort. So, following the war, they had to resort to weaving for making clothes. By the 18th century, weaving began to die out again”, explained Moore. While no longer considered a necessity, many people enjoy the craft of weaving. Modern-day weaver, Sharon Williams, of Independence, Mississippi, has been weaving for almost 40 years. Her pieces are shown at the Craftmen’s Guild of Mississippi Craft Center in Ridgeland, Miss. Williams described what initially sparked her interest in weaving. “A short weaving course was required my first year while attending Memphis College of Art. We used a small 10x12 inch frame loom. I fell in love. I was a painting major and didn’t know anything about weaving. After waiting another 26 DeSoto
year, I switched my major to fiber,” said Williams. “I weave scarves, shawls, ruanas (a type of cape) and yardage to cut and sew. Over the years, I have had commissions for drapery fabric. As far as types of fiber I use, it’s mostly silk, cotton, and rayon. Lately, I have been using bamboo and tencel, which is a fiber extracted from raw material wood, “ elaborated Williams. “The process of weaving has not changed dramatically since those days, with the exception of some of the materials used. The southern Appalachian region saw a revival in weaving during the turn of the 20th century, particularly in regard to rugs and coverlets. But by the 1920s, quilting came back into popularity,” said Moore. Today, Moore believes quilting is as much a part of the social fabric of American society as it was an integral part of the daily lives of the country’s forefathers. “Every culture in the world has traditions, and these traditions were brought to America, including quilting. During the 18th century, fancy whole cloth quilting was happening. Quilting was not just for the bed, there was quilting on various types of clothing, such as coats,” said Moore. Everyday quilts were typically made from materials in the rag bag and were sometimes called crazy quilts. “The ‘show
quilts’ typically had fancy appliqués on them, and were only used when company came. After company left, these quilts were removed from the beds,” he explained. Quilting trends evolved with popular culture. During the 1830s and 1840s, magazines had quilting patterns in them and suggested pattern colors. Moore explained why quilting had women accompanying their husbands to buy animal feed. “Feed sack quilts were a very popular fad. When women planned their quilts, the print pattern was an important component. Hence, they went with their husbands to pick out a particular desired print pattern on a feed sack. In fact, there has been some reprinting of those print patterns today.” The passing down of traditions is a common thread in cultural preservation. Quilting is no different, as Moore described. “It is believed that the white historical quilts we see were most often wedding gifts. Often, we see significance in quilts as they are passed down as heirlooms within familial groups. Or perhaps each child, or grandchild, is given a quilt that has been created and designed specifically with them in mind.” Proper care of these precious and delicate heirlooms is important. With over 6,000 pieces in their textile collection, and approximately 280 pieces being quilts, Kim Ivey, curator of Textiles and Historic Interiors for the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation in Williamsburg, Virginia, offered the following suggestions. “Most of our quilts are stored flat. If we do have to fold a quilt, we will use padded acid free tissue paper between the folds. We also rotate our exhibits, so none of our quilts are on permanent display. When we display a quilt, it is not hanging by its own weight. Instead, it is fully backed on a slanting mounted board behind glass. In addition, we control environmental conditions such as light level, temperature, humidity, and dust level.” Wi t h a m y r i a d o f q u i l t i n g classes and groups available across the country, the art of quilting continues to sew the pieces of the country’s social fabric together, one stitch at a time.
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exploring books} fed, white & blue
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Order Up, America! By J. Eric Eckard. Photography courtesy of Karen Ott Mayer
Hot dogs, hamburgers and apple pie are staples for Americans celebrating Independence Day. Across the nation, families flock to parks and backyards to fire up the grill for a holiday cookout. And each part of the country puts its own unique touch to the July 4 activities. To be sure, there are the basics – fireworks, parades and music. But when it comes to food, dogs and burgers make way for salmon in New England and papaya wedges and banana poi in Hawaii. DeSoto 29
Two years ago, when 4 was researching his latest book, “Fed, White and Blue,” he found himself in a small Minnesota town for July 4. At the Pequot Lakes’ Stars and Stripes Days, Majumdar, a celebrity chef who appears regularly on the Food Network’s “Cutthroat Kitchen,” immersed himself in the local Independence Day festivities. He participated in a bed push race; sampled a tater tot hot dish and apple pie; and mingled with the locals. “There was an old gentleman cooking on an Army cot,” said Majumdar, the former Brit who recently became a United States citizen. “He had made a barbecue (cooker) out of his old Army cot, and he was cooking ‘Army ribs.’” Majumdar spent most of 2013 traveling the United States, making stops along the way to get to know the country’s culinary bounty. From eating tater tots in Minnesota and peanuts in Mississippi to fishing for salmon in Alaska and judging a kosher barbecue contest in Kansas City, Majumdar crisscrossed the country in search of the best meals in the land. Majumdar is in the midst of a nationwide promotional tour for “Fed, White and Blue,” his third book that chronicles his 2013 food trek across the nation. 30 DeSoto
“I’ve been able to meet some great chefs in the United States,” he said. “I’ve also been able to develop more skills, and I think my cooking has definitely improved.” Majumdar’s draw to the kitchen started at a young age, and even during his time in book publishing, cooking and food still remained important to him. So much so, he credits food with saving his life. In 2004, he turned 40, and his mother died. He said he had a nervous breakdown of sorts thanks to the pressures of life and the daily grind of work. Then he discovered a notebook with journal entries from his younger days. One scribbled entry read, “Go everywhere, eat everything.” He said he doesn’t remember writing it, but he embraced it regardless. “I quit my job and started traveling,” Majumdar said. “It was my excuse to use food to find people.” Thirty-one countries and thousands of meals later, he wrote “Eat My Globe.” He followed that book with “Eating For Britain,” paying homage to his home country. During his research for “Eat My Globe,” he met his future wife, Sybil, who was on vacation in Brazil. They kept in touch, and after a few years of long-distance courting, they married in 2010, and Majumdar moved to Los Angeles. It was
then the idea of “Fed, White and Blue” blossomed. “I think we’re on the edge of great American food explosion,” Majumdar said. “Many great chefs have moved out of the big cities … moving back home and imposing their skills in smaller towns and using so many local ingredients. “Some of the best meals I’ve had are from outside big cities.” He cites his trip to Mississippi in 2013 as an amazing food experience, when he helped cook just-caught fish, smoked fish eggs and sampled rice grits and Mississippi peanuts. He returned in 2015 to join up with Chef Miles McMath and Home Place Pastures for a real down-home dinner on the farm. “Mississippi gets a bad rap from a food point of view because people think everything down there is fried,” Majumdar said. “And the state often finds itself at the bottom of certain lists, but we need to tell people what they’re good at. There’s a huge amount of passion for food, and I saw that passion. The food is very good there. If it hasn’t been already, Mississippi will be known as a terrific food destination.” And said found an overwhelming show of hospitality, not just in the South, which is known for welcoming strangers with open arms, but throughout the entire country. And Majumdar acknowledges food as the key ingredient. “That’s the beauty of the U.S. – we’re all allowed to have different ideas, and food makes it OK,” Majumdar said. “It’s hard to have an argument with a mouth full of ribs. You’re not going to say ‘I hate your guts for what you believe in. Now, pass the potatoes, please.’” “Fed, White and Blue” was released in April, and Majumdar and his wife already have driven from Massachusetts to Mississippi and the Carolinas to California, conducting book signings, cooking clinics and getting to know his new countrymen one bite at a time. This July 4 will be his first as an American citizen, and Majumdar said, he expects it to be special. He’ll be in Los Angeles, filming “Cutthroat Kitchen.” But he said he also expects to find some time to enjoy the holiday. After that, it’s back on the road to promote the book. “The journey is still going on,” Majumdar said. “We’re going to places we didn’t even know were places.” DeSoto 31
into the wild } ducks unlimited waterfowling heritage center
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T h e W i ld, I ns i d e Story and Photography by Karen Ott Mayer
It’s possible to meet the wild inside--and even dig in the dirt without bugs or July heat. At the Ducks Unlimited Waterfowling Heritage Center now open in the Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid in Memphis, Tennessee, even those with no experience wading into waters to hunt ducks can truly appreciate the longstanding hunting traditions so strongly associated with the region. More importantly, the 4,600-square-foot space tells the conservation story of how sportsmen and volunteers have worked for decades
to conserve wildlife habitat and educate. Located within Bass Pro, the center is completely free to visitors. “We wanted to reach new audiences and we are very excited about being here,” said Katie Burke, manager of the museum. Originally from Charleston, Miss., Burke has been a lifelong Duck’s Unlimited member and duck hunter. With DeSoto 33
a masters in museum management, Burke is equally excited about her current role. “It’s a perfect fit.” The Ducks Unlimited Waterfowling Heritage Center became a reality through the strong working partnership between Ducks Unlimited and Bass Pro. “Our CEO Dale Hall has had a longstanding relationship and friendship with Johnny Morris, Bass Pro CEO,” said Tom Fulgham, chief communications officer for Ducks Unlimited. It is precisely that natural fit that allowed the concept to flourish. At Ducks Unlimited, eight teams worked on the project. “We visited all the top-notch, cutting-edge museums in the country to learn more,” said Fulgham. And learn they did. Today, the space located on the second floor boasts a series of galleries divided by glass displays filled with collections. The Duck Lodge represents an upscale lodge and backdrop for the Paul Tudor Jones decoy collection, some dating to the 1800s. In another case, the Howard Harlan duck call collection, dates to as early at the 1850s. Harlan, originally from Nashville, Tennessee, is well known for both his collection of handcrafted Heavy Duty duck calls and now as author of “Duck Calls, An Enduring American Folk Art”. His book is considered to be the most complete inventory of calls. Perhaps one of the most sentimental interactive displays tells the story of King Buck, one of the nation’s leading field retrievers in 1953 and 1954. A short video captures the 34 DeSoto
essence of this dog and all his accomplishments, especially when his painted image graced the 1959 Federal duck stamp. To date, King Buck’s image marked the only time a dog face appeared on a migratory waterfowl stamp. Another gallery highlights the history of Ducks Unlimited, its origins and all the countless sportsmen, conservationists and volunteers who have carried this organization successfully for a century. Ironically, it wasn’t wetlands that drew attention to conservation; it was the Dust Bowl winds of the 1930s that concerned a small group of citizens as they witnessed the waterfowl habitat diminish greatly. Ducks Unlimited officially formed in 1937. “We have thousands of volunteers who have dedicated time and money from all over the country,” said Burke. Since opening, she has had the pleasure of welcoming an endless stream of visitors. “The diversity is amazing. We’ve hosted school trips, scouts and held informal classes which involve crafts and science experiments.” Kids can learn everything from how to use a duck call to discovering what happens in a wetlands environment. “If the July heat is too much, you can come inside and dig in the mud,” offered Burke. While Ducks Unlimited hopes to raise awareness about waterfowl wetland conservation, rivers and wetlands, Fulgham points out an important, often misunderstood, fact. “We want
to shine a spotlight on our hunters who aren’t often viewed as conservationists, when in fact, the reverse is often true.” Hunters will enjoy browsing the rare and vintage firearm displays. Walking through the Ducks Unlimited Waterfowling Heritage Center in either minutes or hours, it’s easy to leave with a new appreciation and respect for the South’s waterfowling legacies and traditions. And as Fulgham adds, it’s simply about the outdoors. “We want people to leave with a good feeling and benefit from our outdoors.” Or in this case, the indoors.
Ducks Unlimited Waterfowling Heritage Center Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid Memphis, Tennessee www.ducks.org
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exploring cuisine } chicken fried
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Old Country Store’s Fried Chicken
E V O D L E I R F By Corey Latta. Photography courtesy of Gus’s and Old Country Store
What makes the South, “The South”? Two words: fried chicken. Of course, there is the hospitable culture, welcoming people, and unparalleled history, but let’s be honest, one reason the South is what so many know and love also has to do with the food.
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Gus’s Fried Chicken
In search of the South’s best chicken, I had the pleasure of talking to, and more importantly, eating at a couple of famed fried chicken joints in Tennessee and Mississippi. While there, I asked one question: What makes for good southern fried chicken? For anyone who lives around the Mid-south, the very mention of the words fried chicken around Memphis immediately conjures up the name Gus. With its multiple locations, understated façade, and incredibly personal feel, Gus’s has become Memphis’ signature fried chicken. Zach, one of Gus’s welcoming managers, proudly told me that Gus’s is the number one fried chicken spot in the country. When I asked why, he simply said, “It’s spicy, cooked to perfection, and not too crunchy and not too soft.” Then he added, “We just do it perfect!” I’m afraid that’s about as much detail Gus’s crew will reveal. Their fried chicken recipe is famously secret; but the taste, well known! It’s not just the fried chicken that Gus’s offers. To answer the question of what makes for good chicken, I quickly discovered I had to go beyond the chicken. I had to consider the sides. At Gus’s some of the customer favorites are the mac & cheese, French fries, and homemade fried pies. Clearly, the chicken stands on its own but with so many sides, it’s just that much better. Gus’s isn’t the only chicken shack serving delicious 38 DeSoto
chicken. I also paid a visit to the Old Country Store in Lorman, Mississippi where I asked Little D–the son of owner Mr. D.– what makes southern chicken so irresistible. “We put a lot of love in our chicken!” He continued. “We marinate our chicken for at least eight to 10 hours. We serve fresh and never frozen. Our recipe has been passed down for generations.” Like Gus’s, any talk of the recipe is slim. Also like Gus’s, the old southern ambience and famous sides help make your dining experience special. At the Old Country Store, you can eat your mac & cheese and homemade cornbread in the old country store dating back to 1875. More than the hushed recipes and heaping piles of macaroni and cheese, I discovered the answer to my question of what makes for great fried chicken not in the food, but in the people. Great fried chicken, just like any other great southern staple, tradition, or more, means all that it means because of the people to which it belongs. I sat and ate chicken in places built by hard working families. These quiet chicken joints are landmarks of southern heritage. I’ve come to realize, and the common ingredient that Gus’s and Old Country Store and so many other little dives use, is invested tradition. Simply put, the Zachs and the two Ds care about chicken because they care about their food heritage. They care about the South.
To create a little homemade stovetop South, give this Paula Deen recipe a “fry”. 3 eggs 1 cup hot red pepper sauce 2 cups self-rising flour 2 1/2 pounds chicken, cut into pieces Oil, for frying, preferably peanut oil House seasoning
*To make the house seasoning, mix 1 cup salt, 1/4 cup pepper, 1/4 cup garlic powder together and store in an air-tight container for up to 6 months. Using a deep pot, heat the oil to 350 degrees. Do not fill the pot more than half full with oil. In a medium size bowl, beat
the eggs. Add enough hot sauce (about 1 cup) to the egg mixture so that it turns bright orange. Season the chicken with the 1 cup of salt, ¼ cup of pepper, and ¼ cup of garlic powder. Dip the seasoned chicken in the egg, and then coat well in the flour. Place the chicken in the preheated oil and fry the chicken in the oil until each piece is brown and crisp. Note that dark meat takes longer than white meat. Approximate cooking time is 13 to 14 minutes for dark meat and 8 to 10 minutes for white meat. This recipe serves 6 to 8 people.
Enjoy y’all!
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exploring destinations } the beach club
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an UNDER
EXCLUSIVE SUN
Story by Paula Mitchell. Photography coutesy of The Beach Club
Summer is in full swing and crowded beaches seem as common as the summer heat. But is there an alternative for those families planning a latesummer vacation?
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Voted recently as one of TripAdvisors Top 10 Familyfriendly resorts, The Beach Club can be found between the white sandy beaches of the Gulf of Mexico and Mobile Bay. Alabama’s only full-service resort, The Beach Club allows families and friends to enjoy beach time together--without ever leaving the resort or dealing with crowds. “When you stay at a Spectrum Resorts property, you are getting more than a place to stay, you are getting an experience”, said Veronica Petkov, community and communication outreach director for Spectrum. Spectrum, which manages 500 luxury resort rentals, serves as the exclusive on-site managers for The Beach Club, ensuring families can take advantage of every beach moment. “Our motto is ‘perfection, served beachside’, and we want you and your family leaving relaxed and connected after your stay with us. We hope to make your time with us more than a vacation, but memories that you will continue to talk about and share for years,” said Petkov.
the Clubhouse houses an indoor heated pool, fitness center, complimentary DVD rental kiosk, arcade and spa. Speaking of the spa, the full service spa and salon offer massages, facials and more to wash away any trace of stress.
The Resort
Accommodations
The beautiful white sand beaches are just one reason guests choose The Beach Club. The private beach stretches the length of nearly five football fields. Jet skis, parasailing, volleyball, kayaking, paddleboarding and flyboarding are just the ticket for active vacationers. Beach chairs and umbrellas can be rented by the day or week. Or rent a cabana by the Clubhouse pool, the hub of the resort. Each cabana has a mini refrigerator, TV, ceiling fans and padded loungers. In addition to the outdoor pool 42 DeSoto
Just for the Kids
Exclusivity at The Beach Club doesn’t mean kids aren’t as welcome as their parents. In fact, this resort is not just sandcastles and kite flying; kids can play at the arcade, playground, sand island or activity court. “Arts and crafts, water games, beach games, and sports are available throughout the day,” said Petkov. “Toby the Turtle, the mascot of the Beach Club, can be found participating with the children during various activities as well. A full list can be found under the activities link on the Beach Club website, thebeachclub.spectrumresorts.com. And once the day is done, parents can treat the whole family to a cool treat at the Village Creamery. The Beach Club offers one to five-bedroom condominiums in four gulf-front highrise towers. Each condo has spacious living areas, fully-equipped kitchens, free WiFi and flat screen TVs with DVD players. If traveling with a big family or group, one of the five bedroom cottages works well. These are like a home away from home. Surrounded by beautiful lakes, gardens and wetlands, each cottage has comfortable and large living spaces, gourmet kitchens as well as individual, private outdoor spaces.
Dining
No one ever worries about food while spending time at the The Beach Club resort. With dining options ranging from casual to elegant, mom and dad can dress up or stay in shorts. While lounging by the pool order a sandwich, salad or refreshing beverage from the Gulf Side Grill & Bar. For a laid-back experience filled with entertainment visit The Village Hideaway. Enjoy a delicious meal and craft beer while playing pool, shuffleboard or video games. And for the golf enthusiast play top courses like Pebble Beach on the high definition golf simulator. The menu is extensive serving up everything from pizza and burgers to grilled seafood and steaks. For an amazing sunset over the Gulf dine outside at Coast. Award-winning Executive Chef Brody Olive serves up bonein pork chops, Panko herb gulf Grouper or grilled shrimp and grits. Kid-friendly menus are offered at all the resort’s restaurants. One visit to The Beach Club makes it hard not to return year after year. Jennifer Gaudin of Baton Rouge, Louisiana has been coming to the beach side paradise for three years now. Her words perhaps say it all. “This place is amazing!”
For more information or to make reservations: 866-348-9112 thebeachclub.spectrumresorts.com
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a day away } midtown memphis
Midt own Memphis, TN
reen, a Nat ional Hist oric 9:00 a.m. Start your day in Memphis’ Volli ntine-Everg wiches and homemade District. At Cafe Eclectic, delicious coffee, breakfast essand . breads and pastries are served all day. Vegetari an dish are also avai lable are, full of clot hing 10:00 a.m. Str oll and shop the newl y-revived Over ton Squ bout iques, health and fitness, dining, live entertai nment and more. craze straight from 11:00 a.m. Take a class at Card io Bar re, the latest fitness combining barre work and Holl ywood. The class is a high energy/n o impact workoutweek light weights. C lasses can be purchased per session or ly. e lunch menus span the 12:30 p.m. - Time for lunch! Explore Over ton Square wher Japan. Over at Bel ly globe, including f lavors from Ger many, Indi a, Mexico andmet, signature burger is Acres, the mott o is “citified farm fresh” where the gour the burger, try the chicken made from 100% grass-fed beef. If you’re not up for with and waff les or the gril led cheese on sourdough made six different cheeses. s and home to 3,500 1:30 p.m. Discover the Memphis Zoo. Spread over 70 acre a animals, this is one of the top zoos in the country. Highlights include the pand and polar bear exhi bits and cat country. rict. Park and get ready 4:00 p.m. Take a shor t drive over to the C ooper-Young dist d to shop! The area is known for eclectic stores, delicious dining and one-of-a-kin antiques. over the locals with his 6:00 p.m. Dinner at Tsunami. Chef Ben Smith has woncrus sea award-winning Pacific Rim cuisine. Dishes like Spice ted tuna, roasted bass and seared sea scal lops are sure to please. DKDC and Alchemy 7:00 p.m. Save room for dessert or after dinner cocktails32. Bar self-ser ve wines paired mix up refreshi ng cocktails, or try one of Green cork’s m, stic ky walnuts and with their fried pound cake with butter pecan ice crea caramel sauce.
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Overton Square
The Memphis Zoo
cafeeclectic.net overtonsqaure.com cardiobarre.com bellyacres901.com memphiszoo.org cooper-young.com tsunamimemphis.com bardkdc.com alchemymemphis.com greencorkwine.com Other Midtown Memphis spots worth the visit: Memphis Brooks Museum of Art brooksmuseum.org The Children’s Museum cmom.com Playhouse on the Square playhousesquare.org The Cooper Young Festival cooperyoungfestival.com DeSoto 45
46 DeSoto
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greater goods } for the back yard
For the Back Yard Fish grilling plate The Other Side Gifts 122 Norfleet Drive Senatobia, MS 662-562-7349
MS Pitcher - $24 MS Glasses - $26 Mimi’s On Main 432 W Main Street Senatobia, MS 662-562-8261
Indoor/Outdoor Rocker Available in 5 Colors $219.95 Wicker N More 5270 Hacks Cross Road Olive Branch, MS 662-890-5950
Big Green Eggs by Weber Complete Home Center 32 E Commerce St Hernando, MS 662-429-0400
Floating Ping Pong Table $81.99 www.amazon.com 48 DeSoto
greater goods } for the beach
For the Beach Dolce Vita Sandals - $78 Upstairs Closet 101 South Front Street Senatobia, MS 662-562-4294
Scout Signature Classic Tote $39 Paisley Pineapple 6515 Goodman Road,Suite 2 Olive Branch, MS 662-895-2111
Vera Bradley Beach Towel in Palm Feathers - $35 The Pink Zinnia 134 West Commerce Street Hernando, MS 662-449-5533
Lauren James T-Shirt - $32 Articles of Society Shorts - $48 Stella Ivy Boutique 4850 Goodman Road E, Suite 103 Olive Branch, MS 662-874-5208
Beach cup holders The Blue Olive 210 E Commerce St # 4 Hernando, MS 662-449-1520
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greater goods } for the lake
For the Lake
Lauren James trucker hats - $32 Merry Magnolia 194 E Military Rd. Marion, AR 870-739-5579 Coton Colors Platter with At the Lake attachment Paisley Pineapple 6515 Goodman Road, Suite 2 Olive Branch, MS 662-895-2111
Scout Coolers $28 Mimi’s On Main 432 W Main Street Senatobia, MS 662-562-8261
Mary Sol straw totesSmall blue stripe - $100 Large MultiStripe - $105 The Pink Zinnia 134 West Commerce Street Hernando, MS 662-449-5533
Flip Flops - $12.95 The Blue Olive 210 E Commerce St # 4 Hernando, MS 662-449-1520 50 DeSoto
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52 DeSoto
Memphis TN. Pavilion by MorGreen
Outside Living By Robin Gallaher Branch. Photography courtesy of MorGreen and Butler Pool & Spa
Steve and Blandy Lawrence started building a 1,200-square-foot outdoor living area in their backyard in anticipation of Steve’s retirement from Morgan Keegan Raymond James. The project was completed shortly before his retirement in December and is in constant use this summer. “I do a lot of canning, and we do a lot of cooking,” he said. “I’d say we use it three to four times a week.” DeSoto 53
Olive Branch, MS. Outdoor Dining area by MorGreen
The Lawrences reflect a big Mid-South trend: Outdoor living and outdoor entertaining. Backyards are definitely the place to be and a prime place for homeowners to invest their money. The Lawrences live in Memphis but also have a farm in Marshall County, Mississippi. They love their large garden. They also love entertaining their extended family of four daughters, their husbands, and six grandchildren. The backyard addition matches the English style of their home. It contains a wood-fired pizza oven. “My son-in-law, Justin Burks, is a foodie. He and I cook pizza together,” Lawrence said. The area also has a large wood fireplace, a gas grill, and numerous burners for what Lawrence calls “kettle opportunities”. A breezeway to a sitting area makes the unit flow between outdoor and indoor living spaces. The outdoor facility combines a reddish, buff-colored brick, rough cedar, and two or three different kinds of stone, he said. The couple built a rectangular pool along with the main house 11 years ago. Lawrence thinks the outdoor addition by MorGreen Landscape/Teton Stone was so well done that it looks as if everything were done at the same time. The addition’s outdoor lighting in particular pleases him. “It looks as if moonlight is coming through the oak trees,” he said. Does he think the outdoor area is a good re-sale investment? Lawrence answered that he believes any prospective buyer would expect an outdoor 54 DeSoto
living area because of the size of the home and property. The lot is one and a quarter acres; the home has six bedrooms, and six and a half baths. Mike Omar, owner of MorGreen Landscape/Teton Stone, knows the Lawrences’ decisions reflect a number of Mid-South backyard trends. Not only is formal entertaining in a dining room not necessarily the norm nowadays, but also “more men are involved in cooking outdoors,” Omar said. A lot of people like the Lawrences want an outdoor kitchen. They like entertaining outside. It’s more informal. Guests feel at ease. Kitchens are now focal points of entertaining. Cleanup outside is relatively easy. “We do a lot of bar space. People belly up to the bar, so we make bar height counters and stools. People want to take part in the cooking,” Omar said. Outdoor living areas can contain gas grills, sinks, ovens, fire pits, fireplaces, pergolas, refrigerators, water heaters, and pools. Landscaping and outdoor furnishings provide a finishing touch. Homeowners want to tie in outdoor living with the house, Omar said. They want cooking, living, entertaining, and exercise areas to flow freely from one to the other. They want to make use of their whole property. After all, they’ve paid for it! They follow the existing patterns of the house and landscaping. “We want an addition to look like it was built
when the house was built,” Omar said. Yet another trend Omar sees is that people are not moving up from, say, a $300,000 home to a $600,000 home the way they did 15 years or more ago. Instead, many choose to invest their money right where they are, in the home they have. “A client with a $350,000 house is putting $125,000 in the backyard. That person tells me, ‘I want a cool place to hang out. I don’t care about the resale,’” Omar said. Omar thinks outdoor living is becoming the norm. The Great Recession certainly brought a change in his business. “We went into outdoor landscaping in 2008. It’s really taken off and has become our standard,” he said. Omar gives this suggestion to homeowners about` landscaping. “Instead of having six pots, do one pot with a knockout plant,” he said. A windmill palm surrounded by flowers with a lot of color represents one such eye-stopper ensemble. Joe Butler, Jr., owner of Butler Pool and Spa, agrees that people are using their DeSoto 55
Coldwater MS. Bar Stools and Sunken Kitchen by Butler Pool & Spa Coldwater MS. Pavilion by Butler Pool & Spa
backyards more efficiently and more frequently than they did in earlier decades. Many homeowners like a tropical setting with palm trees. An outdoor package can include outdoor amenities like a changing area and showers. Butler likewise sees new trends in his business. One is pool lounge chairs with a convenient umbrella sleeve nearby. “People can move around in their lounge chairs in the water and come under the shade, too,” he said. Yet another emphasis is LED, outdoor lighting. Although easily 25 different colors are available, people usually stick with shades of blue and purple for the pool. “They like seeing a pool at night. The lights can be connected to an iPad,” Butler said. A major trend over the last 10 years has been away from chlorine pools and toward the use of salt water. “Ninety56 DeSoto
nine percent of the pools we build are salt water pools,” Butler said. A popular pool is called the Mountain Lake. “It has a lot of shape to it and looks more natural in a yard than a traditional, rectangular pool,” Butler said. Over the last decade, custom-made pool covers have become more affordable. “Customers can decide between an iron fence or an automatic pool cover. They’re pretty close to the same price, within a couple of thousand dollars,” Butler said. Butler favors an automatic pool cover because of its energy efficiency and safety features. A covered pool needs fewer chemicals to keep it clean. Children can play safely in the backyard and the adult supervisor does not have to be constantly vigilant regarding drowning. “You turn on a switch and a cover rolls out over the pool. You turn on a switch and
have peace of mind,� Butler said. Another trend is generational buying. Butler finds that those who grew up with pools want them for their families now. He sells pools to grandparents who want to provide a go-to place for their grandchildren. Sometimes grandparents fund a pool at the children’s home for the grandchildren. Butler agrees that extra outdoor landscaping and additions like a pool or outdoor cooking area do not necessarily add monetary re-sale value to a house. “However, they give more curb appeal; they can help you in the negotiations to get top DeSoto 57
dollar for the house on resale,” he said. The price of a pool and installation and other features can range from $50,000 to over $100,000, Butler said. Homebuyers traditionally look at the kitchen, bathrooms, and outdoor areas, Butler said. “Those are the three items that sell.” Butler follows what he practices. After a hard day at work, he goes home and heads toward his outdoor living area off the living room. He settles in an outdoor recliner and watches TV on a 60inch screen. “I love living outside,” he said. Louie Bishop of Bishop Hearth and Home laughs, adding that since everybody watches cooking shows that make gourmet cooking look so easy, everybody wants a backyard cooking area. “And this is true whether they know how to cook or not!” he said. However, a homeowner’s ability to cook may not matter, simply because a homeowner can always invite a good cook as a guest. MidSouth entertaining tends to be with large groups. Indeed, a guest may want to show off and take charge outside! Prices vary for an outside cooking area. Bishop said ballpark figures range from $40,000 to $250,000. Hardscape involves brick, flagstone, and various kinds of pavers. Landscaping is the plant material around the hardscape. “It’s all part of the grand scheme of the overall touch of finishing the picture,” Bishop said. He also believes people are not moving up to larger homes. “They’re doing great with their existing room space,” he said. They’re moving outside. Noting that the Mid-South has seven to eight months where people can live comfortably outside, Bishop said that it’s important to select weather-resilient outdoor furniture. Cast aluminum and teak are excellent. Choose upholstery that resists mildew and fading. Bishop recommends quality appliances, what he calls “big boy toys” that do not have to be replaced every four years. Bishop emphasized the importance of outdoor lighting. “It accentuates the outdoor details. It makes them noticeable, visible, and safe,” he said. People love to entertain, to have a drink, to watch a football game, and to eat. An outdoor living/cooking area by its nature invites mingling, shared cooking duties, a serve-yourself genre, and an easy familiarity--all hallmarks of Southern hospitality. As for Bishop? He follows his own advice. He comes home from work and cooks outside two or three times a week for 11 months of the year. 58 DeSoto
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Neshoba County Fair Rodeo
60 DeSoto
Colorful cabins line the streets of the Neshoba County Fair
By Cheré Coen. Photography courtesy of Neshoba County Fair
When the daily horse racing concludes at the Neshoba County Fair, the real race begins. That’s when visitors line up at four gates, armed with metal lawn chairs, and wait for the countdown. They are there to hear the nightly entertainment — which this year includes Eric Paslay, Ray Scott, Tyer Farr and Phil Vassar — and are itching for a good seat in front of the stage. So when the announcer counts down to one and the gates fly open, there’s a mad rush from all sides. DeSoto 61
Neshoba County Fair Ferris Wheel
“You may be running people over or knocking people down,” said Tracy Risher, a native of Philadelphia, Mississippi where the fair occurs every July. “The sound is incredible,” said Doug Johnson, this year’s Neshoba County Fair chairman. “That is the wildest sound I have ever heard — all those aluminum chairs.” Which is why so many people record the unusual event and post it on YouTube, where the videos get hits in the thousands. “There’s no way to imagine it if you’ve never been,” Risher said. People use the old-fashioned lawn chairs because they are easier to release once visitors get to their favored spot, Risher explained. If there’s a group of visitors, they put up several lawn chairs and string them together. For some, running the “Chair Race” and nabbing the right spot is more fun than watching the entertainment. “It’s more of a pride thing than about getting a good seat,” Risher added. “It’s a rite of passage.” The chair races may be unique, but the same can be said for the non-profit festival, labeled “Mississippi’s giant house party.” People come for the week, staying in “cabins” or campsites located on the fair grounds and enjoying family time as much as the many fair events held over eight days. The tall townhouse-style homes are built close to one another and consist of two to three stories each, said Johnson. The fair owns the property on which the 598 cabins sit, but individuals own the buildings. In addition, there are 530 Cathedral St John - The divine restoration program 62 DeSoto
campsites. “You can barely walk between cabins,” Risher said. “They are very close together. It’s like a made community.” Cabin owners may build and enjoy their cabins — some costing up to $350,000 — as long as they abide by the rules and regulations of the fair, Johnson explained. Many times several families will go in together on a home. Risher’s been attending the Neshoba County Fair since she was a teenager, staying with cousins at their cabins. Between family and friends, she’s seen her share of cabin life. Most of the homes have a first floor for kitchen and living space, she explained, while the second and third floors contain bedrooms. Sometimes, a floor would be dedicated for kids and contain nothing but bunk beds. Naturally, because this is the Deep South, many cabins include outside decks or porches with swings. Within the residential section of the fair grounds, there are smaller communities consisting of groups of cabins, Risher said, neighborhoods such as Happy Hollow, Sunset Strip, Founders Square and Lazy Acres. Many times visitors will pull outside tables together and enjoy a huge meal or folks will take the opportunity to hold a family or high school reunion during the fair run. And there don’t seem to be territorial issues. “In the mornings, there would be people laying on our (cabin) deck because they didn’t make it to their cabin the night before,” Risher said with a laugh. If you’re hoping to take in the fair as a tourist, a better
bet are the hotels in town and the Pearl River Resort casinos and hotels. There’s a long waiting list to either rent a cabin or purchase one, Johnson said. “The joke is when those cabins are in a divorce case, they decide who’s going to get the fair cabin before who’s going to get the kids,” he said.
Fair History
There were agricultural fairs and church meetings in Neshoba County for years but the first organized county event was the Coldwater Fair in 1889. In 1891 the event organized as the Neshoba County Stock and Agricultural Fair Association, moved to its present site and began charging admission to sustain the annual event. Since the fair attracted families who stayed for the week, a hotel was built and simple, one-story cabins constructed. Over the years, the racetrack, pavilion and other structures were built as well as the oak trees planted in Founder’s Square. Hundreds more cabins were built as the years wore on and the fair expanded. It was also in the 19th century that the tradition of politicos visiting to deliver DeSoto 63
Neshoba County Fair Chair Race
stump speeches began. Over the years, visiting dignitaries and politicians have included Ronald Reagan, Jack Kemp, Jimmy Carter and John Glenn. “Generally our attendance is a little higher during election years,” Johnson said, adding that this year should attract both politicians and additional visitors. The Neshoba County Fair continues to be a selfsupporting non-profit organization that operates on funds derived mainly from admissions and concessions.
Unlike anything
This year’s Neshoba County Fair will be July 24-31 on Highway 21 in Philadelphia and will include an arts and crafts show, carnival rides, rodeo, daytime horse racing, nighttime live entertainment and, of course, a beauty pageant. There are several hotels in Philadelphia and the Pearl River Resort casinos and hotels run shuttles every hour to and from the fair (the shuttle schedule is located on fair programs). It’s imperative to book as far in advance as possible due to the 64 DeSoto
popularity of the fair. “We get over 200,000 people to the fair,” said Twyla Lovern, Neshoba County tourism director. “It’s huge.” It’s also good to plan ahead. Because daytime temperatures can be sweltering in Mississippi, Risher takes in most of the fair activities at night. “You don’t do too much in the day because it’s so so hot,” she said. For Risher, there’s a method to her fair madness. She likes to enjoy the late-night music, which includes a headliner Tuesday through Friday nights, followed by late-night music, usually local bands. Friday and Saturday nights the rodeo takes over. “The Square” offers those century-old oak trees so there’s shade for activities such as the Saturday morning arts and craft fair, a nice respite from the heat. Overall, it’s a family event. “I love the Neshoba County Fair,” Risher gushed. “I try not to miss it. My children go to it. It’s a family tradition. It’s still old school — there’s no TV, it’s a time for kids to get out. You make friends. You just
can’t beat it in my eyes.” One thing you hear over and over, it’s unlike any other fair. “It’s different,” Lovern said. “That’s what attracts people to it. There’s nothing like it.” “If you’re from Mississippi,” Risher concluded, “it’s something you need to do in your lifetime.”
For more information and a schedule of events, visit www.neshobacountyfair.org. For a list of lodging and dining options, visit www.neshoba.org.
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Tobacco Farmer, Benito Camejo
66 DeSoto
The Wilson CafĂŠ
Vinales Tobacco Region
Cuba:
Pearl of theAntilles Story by Mary Ann DeSantis. Photography courtesy of Tony & Mary Ann DeSantis
Visiting Cuba has become more than a daydream for Americans since the current administration moved to restore relations with the Caribbean country last December. DeSoto 67
BelAir Taxi
Plaza Vieja
68 DeSoto
Bookings by Americans increased 36 percent by February and the number of American visitors continues to skyrocket. I also had been ‘Havana Daydreamin’ since 1991 when I last visited there on a journalist visa. I promised myself I would return someday to see if conditions had improved since that “special period,” a time following the Soviet Union’s departure when food shortages and poverty were rampant. This past May, I indeed returned when I joined a people-to-people cultural exchange (one of the few ways that Americans currently can visit Cuba). Cuba is definitely in transition as it gears up for the “Yanks” who are eager to visit the country that has been off limits for more than 50 years. As the most precious jewel in the island group known as the Greater Antilles, Cuba has an allure that is hard to describe. For many, the island is “forbidden fruit” because most Americans could not enter the country legally after the U.S. broke diplomatic relations and closed the U.S. Embassy in 1961. For others, stepping back in time where vintage American cars dominate the roads and Internet access is limited sounds like a dream vacation. For me, traveling to Cuba meant meeting the people and hearing in their own words just how they felt about their neighbors to the north. “You are American?,” an elderly man asked me as I took a photo of his shiny 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air on my second morning in Havana, the capital city of 2.2 million people. Before I could add anything other than “yes,” he grasped me in a bear hug and genuinely said, “Welcome to Cuba. We are so glad you are here.” The story was pretty much the same for everyone in our group. My husband, Tony, was shooting photos on Havana’s famous Malecón that borders the harbor when he struck up a conversation with a young man, who offered him two Cuban cigars and would not take any money in exchange. With a beaming smile and halting English, he said to Tony: “You are American. You are my friend.”
A Proud Culture
It’s easy for my Baby Boomer generation to forget that Cuba, often called “the pearl of the Antilles,” has a colorful and important history that began centuries before Fidel Castro established a revolutionary socialist state. The Spaniards DeSoto 69
Havana Street Scene
founded Havana in 1515 to be the “strongbox” for the gold they accumulated in the New Word, and the Spanish king made conquistador Hernando DeSoto the first Governor of Cuba in 1536. DeSoto even left his wife in Havana when he set sail for his exploration through the southern United States. DeSoto began building a fort in 1537 that is now the site for the El Castillo de la Fuerza, the oldest building in Havana and the second oldest stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere. DeSoto’s original structure was destroyed by French pirates and the Castillo, rebuilt in 1555, now houses a maritime museum. Havana was the principal port for Spain’s New World, and the city was designed following the Spanish “Law of the Indies,” which required a central plaza surrounded by public buildings with portales to shade inhabitants from the hot Caribbean sun. This urban grid is familiar to anyone who has spent time in St. Augustine or Savannah — cities that also were originally part of Spanish territory. Today, the Spanish Colonial buildings survive along side architectural influences from Great Britain, France, and Italy, all of which played a role in Cuban history. The people of Havana, called Habaneros, take pride in the exquisite architecture, which is a reminder that the nation once had considerable wealth. Unfortunately, that wealth evaporated after the revolution and many buildings fell into disrepair. Today, the pearl may lack its luster, but with the help of UNESCO many of the city’s historic gems are being restored.
Authentic Cuba: Cars, Cigars & Music
Since returning home, the question I’ve been asked the most is, “Did you ride in one of those classic American cars?” When the U.S. stopped all exports to Cuba in 1960, there were no more American cars or parts entering the country. The Cubans are quite ingenious when it comes to keeping the 70 DeSoto
pre-revolutionary cars in pristine shape. Our guide told us that about a decade ago, the Italians and Spaniards were buying many of the vintage cars, but Castro put a stop to it. Even he recognized how iconic those cars are to Cuban culture. And, yes, I did ride through the streets of Havana in a 1948 red convertible Chevy — a highlight of my trip. Owner Carlos Alberto inherited the car from his grandfather and now uses it as a tour taxi. His hour-long tour through Havana runs about $35, and he said that some days he chauffeurs four or five trips -- not bad income in a country where the average salary is only about $25 a month. The second most popular question usually centers around cigars: “Did you smoke one,” or more likely, “did you bring any home?” No, I didn’t actually smoke a cigar although I had plenty of invitations when I visited a tobacco farm in Vinales. Some friends were disappointed that we did not buy a box of Montecristos or Cohíbas, reportedly the two best varieties. Initially, we were told that Americans could not bring cigars or rum home; later, we learned that we were allowed to buy $100 worth. What I did bring home, however, was a new found appreciation for Cuban music. “Cuba is a musical society,” said our guide and that was true. From Afro-Cuban rhythms at the Callejón de Hamel art project in Old Havana to a modern jazz club in the Vedado District or at the Buena Vista Social Club inside the historic Hotel Nacional, music flows from every corner of the city. Small combos of musicians performed in every restaurant, even the small family-owned paladars. And if you are sitting on the front row of any venue, be assured that a Cuban will ask you to dance.
Cuba In Transition
As of June, U.S. visitors are not “tourists” in Cuba. The U.S. Department of Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets has issued general licenses within 12 categories of authorized travel to Cuba. Currently, visitors must travel with an OFAC -licensed tour agency on charter flights and stick to an itinerary. In other words, no trips to the beach on your own. My eight-day tour was an educational and cultural exchange that focused on visiting museums, schools, historic sites, and cultural institutions. OFAClicensed agencies can put together trips based on participants’ interests. For instance, Carlson-Maritime, the OFAC-licensed agency I used, is leading a cultural exchange to Havana’s International Film Festival in December for film lovers. When the U.S. lifts the embargo and eases travel restrictions, U. S. citizens may soon be able to explore on their own. However, Cuba is still in transition. Even Cubans on the street admitted there aren’t enough hotel rooms for the onslaught of Americans. Many of the historic sites are government-run and access can be difficult. And without an experienced guide, you would miss a lot of the history lessons and back stories that surround one of the world’s most legendary countries — and certainly a pearl about to regain its shine.
If You Go • U.S. Citizens traveling to Cuba need a valid passport and a visa. All travelers to Cuba, including religious workers, should contact the Cuban Interests Section in Washington to determine the appropriate type of visa required for their purpose of travel. In many cases, an OFAC-licensed agency will help you secure the appropriate visa. • Don’t be tempted to visit Cuba through a third country, such as Mexico or Canada. U.S. travelers who fail to comply with Department of the Treasury regulations may face civil penalties and criminal prosecution upon return to the U.S. • The currency system in Cuba is confusing. There are two types, but visitors must use Cuban Convertible Pesos, called CUCs. In May, the exchange rate was about 87 CUCs to $1. Supposedly, the Cuban government is working to unify its currencies this year. • Take cash because there are no U.S. banks in Cuba and certainly no ATMs. Cuba is also a tip society so plan to leave one or two CUCs at each meal and when you ask someone for permission to take a photo. We left our cash in the hotel safe and took only the amount of CUCs we thought we would need each day. • Pack all of the toiletries and medicines you will need, including toilet paper and hand sanitizer. Because such goods are in short supply, you may want to leave behind unused portions. • Carry a few small items for children you may meet. I had pencils, small erasers, and lots of peppermints which came in handy when requesting photos. • For more information about traveling to Cuba, see travel.state.gov/content/passports/english/country/cuba.html. DeSoto 71
homegrown } fat mama’s
Growing up with Fat Mama By Charlene Oldham. Photography courtesy of Fat Mama’s
David Gammill grew up at Fat Mama’s Tamales in more ways than one. “I remember, at one point, I had a cot in the back that I could take naps on as a kid,” he said of the 600-square-foot log cabin restaurant his parents, Jimmy and Britton, opened in June 1989. Gammill worked at the Natchez, Mississippi institution -- named for his and his sister’s prediction of what would happen if Britton didn’t perfect her tamale recipe sooner rather than later – through junior high and high school before attending Mississippi State University. After graduating in August 2005, Gammill was in the back of the house again, this time running day-to-day operations so his parents could retire. 72 DeSoto
“I had my last exam on Friday morning, and Friday afternoon, I was at Fat Mama’s,” he said. “School ended and six hours later – just enough time to pack up and drive home – I had to be at work.” Work he did, especially after Hurricane Katrina struck a few weeks later and an eminent domain case from the National Park Service prompted him to start looking for a new
location that fall. As one of the few restaurants in the area with electricity and ample supplies, Fat Mama’s accommodated many who had fled areas completely devastated by the storm. “We never lost power at the restaurant. We live about three blocks away and we didn’t have power at the house for almost 10 days. It was a difficult time. I quickly learned what was required, to say the least.” After opening in 2008 at the new 3,400 square-foot location across the street from the original cabin, Fat Mama’s was able to expand its dining area, menu and wholesale operation. For years, the wholesale business consisted of Gammill’s mother shipping bottles of “Knock You Naked” margarita mix to about 30 to 40 retailers who expressed interest, usually after sampling it themselves at Fat Mama’s. Working with the economic development organization Natchez Inc., Fat Mama’s products made an appearance at the Mississippi Market Wholesale Show in 2012, a move that doubled its number of clients almost overnight. “The response was phenomenal. And that kind of opened our eyes to the fact that there was a demand for our product,” he said. “Everything kind of lined up for us to say, ‘We should pursue this.’” Today, Fat Mama’s has about 600 wholesale customers and offers margarita mix, fire and ice pickles and even tamales to retailers who have freezer or refrigeration space. Gammill also launched a strawberry margarita mix at this year’s Mississippi Market show and is in the process of converting the lime recipe from high fructose corn syrup to real sugar. With the help of a co-packer, the restaurant now makes 10,000 units
of the margarita mix at a time. Although the mix has been tweaked to fit a larger scale production run, Gammill says the recipe’s roots grew in the family kitchen more than 25 years ago. “Really, the recipe for all three, the pickles, the margarita mix and the tamales, starts with the recipe you’d come up with in your kitchen,” he said. “Figuring out what works, what tastes good, what tastes better.” While he hopes Fat Mama’s will eventually become a regional brand and the “Knock You Naked” margarita mix expands to be a “serious consideration” for an increasing number of Southern consumers in the market for drink mix, Gammill says the wholesale business started as a way to let loyal customers take a piece of the Fat Mama’s experience home with them. He says customers have come to Fat Mama’s to mark births, engagements, divorces, deaths and everything in between since the restaurant opened more than a quarter century ago. And that core experience hasn’t really changed much, even as the restaurant evolved from a struggling momand-pop business in its first few years to a must-make stop for many tourists and locals alike. “And we’re fortunate that Fat Mama’s made its way on to that list. But, in large part, it happened because Jimmy and Britton, my parents, were here all the time,” Gammill said. “It was as much about asking ‘how’s your mama and them’ as it was eating the food and drinking the drinks. And, you know, that’s important to us.”
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southern harmony } mason jar fireflies
Rhythm and Greens - Mason Jar Fireflies By Jill Gleeson. Photography courtesy of Mason Jar Fireflies
They’re an unlikely trio at first glance: a tall, wiry hipster-type sporting the de rigueur wooly cap and scruffy facial hair, a fresh-faced young woman from whose graceful neck hangs a horizontal cross pendant, and an older, soft-spoken gent who could be the young pair’s granddad. But take another look – no, a listen. Because if Adam Gowdy, Kyndle McMahan and Greg Carmack look like improbable bandmates, once they start playing they sound like they were born to make music 74 DeSoto
together. And if none are kin, they’re most definitely a family – a musical family known by the deeply appealing moniker Mason Jar Fireflies. It’s a great name, and a big one. A name that conjures up, according to McMahan, “sitting in a swing on the back porch. Drinking sweet tea in mason jars. Catching fireflies. It’s nostalgic. It’s southern.” It’s also a name, thanks to that lovely, slightly wistful vibe, made for marquees, for tours and albums
and just maybe the kind of success of which every musician dreams. If, that is. If, along with a lot of luck, there are chops to go with that great big name. Happily for Gowdy, McMahan, Carmack and the lucky Memphis locals who get to catch them live a couple nights every week, Mason Jar Fireflies has got chops. Mad chops. In fact when you hear them, the first thought that enters your mind, right after “Wow, these guys are really good,” is “Why aren’t they on a big label, opening for Lady Antebellum or something?” They’ve got a lot going for them. There are the carefully crafted songs, which tell, in timeless country music tradition, of love lost and love found, of hearts broken and hearts mended and hearts in every mixed-up condition in between. There are the guitars – Gowdy’s rhythm and Carmack’s lead – both usually acoustic and played with the kind of clean, unfussy showmanship that speaks of honest talent and years of dedication. And then there are McMahan’s vocals, by turns earthy or ethereal, exquisite on their own, when blending with Gowdy’s the aural equivalent of slipping into a cool bath on a hot night. “Church is where I started out,” explained McMahan of that incredible voice. “All the singers that I look up to started out in church, like Aretha Franklin. My mother sang gospel and I just latched on to that immediately. I like to think that the master genre I sing in is soul music because it really encompasses a whole spectrum, from country to rock to R&B…in all genres soul is just soul. And that’s what I bring to the band.” Mason Jar Fireflies came together slowly, organically, as if it were simply meant to be. McMahan, who is just 21, met Gowdy, 24, five years ago in Bolivar, Tennessee, where they were both raised. He was more or less a prodigy, recording rap albums and gigging as a spoken word artist in his early teens. When he put out word he was searching for a female singer, McMahan came knocking. Within a year they were a couple. After McMahan was accepted to the University of Memphis as a music business major the pair moved to the city and hooked up with Carmack, who Gowdy knew through a former bandmate. Carmack, a Bob Weir-loving Deadhead who adores classic country, began jamming with them and before long Mason Jar Fireflies was born.
Just three years old, the band released a self-titled 10song album last spring, which they recorded at the University of Memphis under the guidance of the music business program. They’ve played all over the city at venues including Lafayette’s Music Room, Otherlands Coffee Bar, the Levitt Shell summer concert series, Overton Square, Hard Rock Café, Minglewood Hall and the New Daisy Theater on Beale Street. They’ve amassed a dedicated following who come to hear what the band has dubbed “Rhythm and Greens” – their unique blend of roots-oriented country pop shot through with a heavy dose of soul that’s been likened by listeners to “Detroit meets Nashville.” Despite their rapid achievements and zealous fans, when Mason Jar Fireflies stepped into Ardent Studios this year to record their second album they found themselves messing a little too much with success. “We went through this phase where we were trying to be something that we’re not,” McMahan said. “So we’re backtracking and writing new material that is more fitting for us rather than trying to conform to something we think we should be. I think we’re in a good place…in the long run this will help.” Barring any further growing pains, Mason Jar Fireflies will release their album before summer’s end. They’ll continue to play Memphis, bringing Rhythm and Greens to a no doubt ever-widening legion of admirers. Catch them before Lady Antebellum comes calling. For more information or to purchase Mason Jar Fireflies’ debut album, visit www.masonjarfireflies.com
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table talk} kathryn’s on moon lake
Memories on Moon Lake By Andrea Brown Ross. Images Courtesy of John Mohead & Natalie Scaife
Kathryn’s on Moon Lake has been making memories for 75 years.
It seems all roads lead home for some people. And for John Mohead, chef and owner of Kathryn’s on Moon Lake, the road took him around the world and back to the Mississippi Delta. Formerly a singer/songwriter for several years in Nashville, Tenn., Mohead’s travels took him near and far. When he returned home, his intentions were to tear down the dated building known as Kathryn’s and invest in new real estate, specifically condos. Before demolition took place, he took one last stroll down memory lane. “ When I walked through the restaurant, it had not changed, even down to the knotty pine wood. I grew up at Moon Lake, and those memories from my childhood came 76 DeSoto
back. So, my wife and I discussed the possibility of reopening the restaurant. We agreed to give it one summer and then reassess our plans,” said Mohead. And the rest, as they say, is history. Now in his fourth year, Mohead admitted he initially had grand visions of an elaborate selection of culinary choices. “I wanted to serve haute cuisine. However, I quickly learned that in order to proficiently use our kitchen, I would need to adjust what I envisioned on the menu. We have now pared down our menu to what we can do really well,” he explained. “Some of our customer favorites include our steak,
shrimp, and catfish. We have our own special recipe for our steak marinade. We serve blackened catfish over succotash with a crawfish sauce. Customers also enjoy a fresh sliced tomato on their plate. We source locally when we can, from herbs in our herb garden, to corn and tomatoes, and catfish from Tunica.” While Mohead continues to make history with his culinary creations, the restaurant continues to serve two original recipes from the family that opened Kathryn’s some 75 years ago. Mohead explained its origins. “Frank Rossi, an Italian immigrant, and Kathryn Rossi, and Irish immigrant, started the restaurant back in 1939. Their home was in the back of the building and their family style restaurant occupied the front section. Of course, it was a private restaurant. During Prohibition, and actually up into the 1970’s, you had to know someone to get in. It’s now gone through a few hands before I purchased it.” While the Rossi family was apparently adept at keeping strangers out, they also kept their recipes under wraps as well. “The Rossis did not write down their recipes. So in order to serve the same salad and onion rings, we had to go through a process of trial and error. With the help of a frequent customer of the original Kathryn’s, a local man in his 90’s, who served as our taste tester, we tweaked the recipes until we thought we had them right. However, I kept thinking that the onion rings were missing something. When a friend of mine was visiting, who had been a chef in California to some of the stars, we worked in the kitchen on the onion rings. He asked me to get him a beer. I assumed he just wanted a beer to drink. Instead, he added it to the onion ring batter, and we discovered John Mohead
our missing ingredient,” described Mohead. With at least 30 years worth of Polaroid pictures donning the walls as testament, Kathryn’s has seen a few stars in their restaurant. “Conway Twitty and Loretta Lynn have eaten here. Conway’s mother lived at Moon Lake. It was not uncommon for Conway’s family to frequent the restaurant. In fact, Tennessee Williams has been here. His grandfather, Reverend Walter Dakin, was a priest in Clarksdale, Miss., not too far from here, “said Mohead. However, one does not need to be a celebrity these days to eat at Kathryn’s, Mohead explained. “We have customers who pull up in their boats and come in to eat. We have casual customers to others that are in jackets. Reservations are not required, but they are strongly recommended. We are open Thursday through Sunday evenings. We open at 6p.m., and the kitchen closes typically between 9-9:30p.m. We would hate to have to turn customers away.” According to Mohead, making reservations is well worth it. “What began as a hobby, has now become my employment. Kathryn’s offers that hard to find authentic southern comfort food that can’t be found in a restaurant chain.”
To see an updated seasonal menu or inquire about booking a private event, follow them on Facebook at facebook.com/KathrynsOnMoonLake. For reservations call (662) 337-0022.
Katryn’s Party Room
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in good spirits} sangria
“Why limit happy to an hour?” W.C. Fields
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Sunand Sangria By Cheré Coen. Photography courtesy of food-fire.com
Sangria hails from Spain, using wine as a base and incorporating fruit juices, soda, water and fresh fruit, preferably left to gel overnight and served the following day chilled and garnished with fruit. Typically sangria is made with red wine but white wine may be used for “sangria blanco.” And if you want to be very creative, add some interesting fruit flavors such as peach or nectarine. The Spanish party drink arrived in the United States via the 1964 World’s Fair in New York, so it’s apropos that The Beauty Shop in the hip Cooper-Young district of Memphis — its style harking back decades where visitors may dine beneath hooded Belvedere hair dryers — would be the perfect place to enjoy sangria cocktails. The Beauty Shop offers a red and white sangria, plus a unique blend called “Susangria,” a blend of champagne and sangria. “We sell quite a bit but especially the white sangria,” said Steven Lazich, the Beauty Shop’s manager and bartender. “The days about Schnapps are gone. It’s all about fresh juices now.” The restaurant creates its sangria in larger quantities than a person would at home, Lazich said, so fresh fruit is only used to garnish the cocktails at the Beauty Shop. Lazich recommends adding lots of fresh fruit for the overnight process, for those creating sangria to be enjoyed in one sitting. “Generally it’s half and half fruit juices with wine and you let it sit for a couple of days,” he explained. “I’d cut the fruit and let it sit in it as well.”
The following is an innovative recipe from Memphis natives Patrick and Gina Neely, proprietors of Neely’s Bar-BQue, hosts of the Food Network series “Down Home with the Neelys” and authors of several cookbooks.
Fresh Peach Sangria
From “Down Home with the Neelys: A Southern Family Cookbook”
2 bottles dry white wine (such as Pinot Grigio or sauvignon blanc), chilled 1/2 cup brandy 1 cup pineapple juice 1/2 cup superfine sugar 4 peaches, pitted and sliced 2 red or black plums, pitted and sliced 2 cups green grapes, halved 1 lemon, sliced into rounds
Directions:
Combine the wine, brandy, pineapple juice, sugar, peaches, plums, grapes and lemon slices in a large pitcher, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add ice cubes to fill and serve immediately, or refrigerate for up to one day in advance and add ice cubes before serving.
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exploring events } July Independence Day Events and Concerts Levitt Shell Concert Series: Patriotic Pops July 2 7:30PM Levitt Shell Memphis, TN Dust off your lawn chair and get out your picnic baskets. It’s time for Levitt Shell’s Concert Series. The Shell is nestled in the beautiful and expansive park – a green oasis where art and culture come together. Get comfortable and settled in for a night of music with Patriotic Pops. For more information call 901-272-2722 or visit levittshell.org. Fireworks Spectacular July 3 6:00PM - 10:00PM Latimer Lakes Park Horn Lake, MS Bring your picnics and blankets and enjoy children’s activities and entertainment by Colonial Hills Church. Free admission. Food vendors will be available. Entertainment begins at 6pm and fireworks at 9pm. For more information, call 662-342-3489 or visit www.hornlakeparks.com. 30th Annual Independency Day Celebration July 3 6:30PM H.W. Cox Park Collierville, TN Fireworks start at 9:45PM. Please call or email Sheila Moody at 901-457-2777 should you have any questions or need further information. Southaven July 4th Celebration July 4 6:30PM - 11:00PM BankPlus Amphitheater Southaven, MS The City of Southaven will host its annual July 4th Celebration this year at Snowden Grove Park Amphitheater. Free admission and picnics and coolers are welcome. The entertainment will begin at approximately 6:30 p.m. with the fireworks extravaganza beginning at approximately 9:00 p.m. For more information, contact Kristi Faulkner at 662-280-2489 or visit www.southaven.com. 80 DeSoto
16th Annual Celebrate Your Independence Fireworks & Festival July 4 6:00PM Olive Branch, MS Bring your blankets and lawn chairs to Olive Branch City Park for this free event. Enjoy Kids Zone, great food vendors and more. World class fireworks begin around 9pm. Entertainment begins at 6pm. For more information, call 662-892-9200 or visit www.obms.us. Celebration and Fireworks Display July 4 Mud Island River Park, Memphis, TN Spend the 4th of July on Mud Island - fireworks, food and family fun. Open all day and at nightfall, the best fireworks display you have ever seen will be on Mud Island River Park. For more information call 901-576-7241 or visit mudisland.com. Fireworks Extravaganza July 4 5:00PM Municipal Park, Germantown, TN Activities begin at 5 p.m., fireworks at 9:10 p.m. Celebrate the nation’s birthday with live music, moon bounces, games, crafts and refreshments. Then be amazed by a spectacular fireworks display. Concessions available for purchase. No rain date. In the event of inclement weather, call 751-5669 for details on event status. Carriage Crossing Movie Night Thru September The Shops at Carriage Crossing Houston Levee at 385 Collierville, TN July 10 - Annie, Rated PG July 24 - Sleeping Beauty, Rated G Movies will begin at dusk in Central Park. Weather permitting, schedule is subject to change. For more information visit shopcarriagecrossing.com/events. Balagan Theatrical Circus Sensation June 19 - July 12 Millenium Theatre Gold Strike Casino Tunica Resorts, MS Be amazed by the artistry, music and centuriesold European tradition of marketplace circus entertainment. For tickets visit www.ticketmaster.com or call 888-747-7711.
28th Annual Slugburger Festival July 9 - 11 Corinth, MS The 28th Annual Slugburger Festival will take place in Historic Downtown Corinth on July 9th-11th. Saturday will be an all day event! Green Slug Market will start at 8 am and the Miss Slugburger Pageant will start at 9. The WORLD SLUGBURGER EATING CHAMPIONSHIP will take place at 4 p.m. Each of these events are FREE admission. Entertainment gates open at 6 with the line up as follows: 6-6:40 - Kirk Chism, 7-8- Exit 94, 8:30-9:30- Dylan Scott, 10-1130- Corey Smith. Entertainment will include Slug Idol on Thursday Night with Trevor Harmon following. Friday night will include 6-6:40-Evan Adams, 7-8- Stonecoats, 8:30-9:30 Bonfire Orchestra, 10-11-30 Spunk Monkees. For more information call 662-287-1550 or visit facebook.com/slugburgerfestival. Imagine Dragons “Smoke and Mirrors” Tour July 13, 8:00 PM Grammy Award-winning rock band, Imagine Dragons, heads to FedExForum for their Smoke + Mirrors tour. In 2014, the band was nominated for a total of fourteen different Billboard Music Awards, including Top Artist of the Year and a Milestone Award, recognizing innovation and creativity of different artists across different genres. Purchase tickets at all Ticketmaster locations, Ticketmaster.com, the FedExForum Box Office or by phone at (800)745-3000. All tickets are subject to additional fees and service charges. Live at the Garden Summer Concert Series Rob Thomas July 17 Memphis Botanic Garden, Memphis, TN Gates open at 6:30 p.m. Come early and get your picnic spread on the lawn or purchase your food from vendors offering tempting Garden treats. Call ahead and pre-order food from one of the caterers. For tickets visit www.ticketmaster.com or call 901-576-4107. Loretta Lynn July 17 - 18 Gold Strike Casino 1010 Casino Center Drive, Tunica Resorts, MS Catch country legend Loretta Lynn at the Millennium Theatre at Gold Strike Casino. Tickets are $49.95, $59.95 and $69.95 plus tax and are on sale at the Gold Strike Gift Shop, ticketmaster.com or by calling 888.24K-PLAY.
Natchez Food & Wine Festival July 24-26 Natchez, MS The Natchez Food and Wine Festival has become one of the most anticipated events in the Natchez, Mississippi area. Experience one magnificent event after another with culinary enthusiasts from all over the region. You will find yourself constantly surrounded with some of the region’s most prominent chefs and restaurants, and indulged in the finest of food, wine, and entertainment. Make reservations right away to attend this unforgettable three-day event. For more information call 601-442-4895 or visit natchezfoodandwinefest.com. Harry Connick, Jr. July 27, 7:30PM The Orpheum Theatre, Memphis, TN Don’t miss your opportunity to see this multi-talented star. It is guaranteed to be “One Fine Thing.” Tickets can be purchased by calling (901)525-3000 | Fax (901)525-5499. Get your tickets at the Orpheum Theatre Box Office, 203 S. Main, Memphis, TN or Booksellers at Laurelwood (387 Perkins Rd, Memphis, TN), and all Ticketmaster ticket centers. Kenny Chesney Big Revival Tour July 29 7:00PM BankPlus Amphitheater, Southaven, MS Kenny Chesney’s “The Big Revival Tour” with special guests Jake Owen and Chase Rice will be at BankPlus Amphitheater at Snowden Grove on July 29. For tickets visit Ticketmaster.com or call 800-745-3000. The Neshoba County Fair July 24-31 It is called Mississippi’s Giant Houseparty, and it is just that. Neshoba County families gather from across the country every summer for a week long family reunion and house party like no other. For more info, visit www.neshobacountyfair.org. 46th Annual Watermelon Carnival July 31-August 1 City Park, Water Valley, MS Fun for the entire family including BBQ contest, music, arts & crafts, fireworks and children’s activities.
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reflections} a quiet white
A Quiet White Story and photography by Karen Ott Mayer
When I drove into the Vicksburg Military Park, I held no expectations other than the ever-present pressure of a tight schedule. In typical Murphy’s Law fashion, I arrived on the heels of a bus filled with elderly tourists, all smiling, bedecked in tennis shoes and moving way too slow. As I approached the gatehouse, a young woman hung her head out the window. “I’m sorry, but we’re on a shift change so I can’t take any money. You can go up to the welcome center and circle back in about ten minutes.” Slightly irritated that the universe hadn’t solved a shift-change detail that didn’t affect my schedule, I smiled back and took her suggestion. I joined the geriatric throng. Would I ever reach that point in life? They seemed so…unencumbered. At the center, I picked up a map and a few brochures. I tried to stand and listen to interactive screens, but felt like a three-year old who couldn’t sit still. Instead, I browsed souvenirs, observed the crowd and paced. Soon, I returned to my car, paid and entered the park. I glanced at the map and nearly panicked when I realized the size of the park. Sixteen miles? I glanced at the clock, feeling like I had just entered battle. Whatever came next would just have to wait as I still hadn’t acquired the ability to add more time to a day. I threw everything on the back seat and rolled down my windows to let the fresh spring air blow through the car. As I began winding around the park, stopping periodically to read markers, I myself began to unwind. Soon, I fell into a rhythm. A few joggers passed by as I read a placard. Later, when I came around a bend and saw the Illinois Memorial set high on a far hill, I felt…what? A sense of pride or disbelief ? 82 DeSoto
As monuments, a house, and placards filled my afternoon, that small incredulous feeling grew stronger. I remembered a distant fact that more men had died in the Civil War than any other war in our history. I also recalled a remark by another journalist, overhead while on a trip. “Why do they still talk about the Civil War in the South?” she asked. If only she knew how raw and untouched parts of the Southern landscape remained, many places with structures or fences or homes still dating to a time when we tore each other apart. When I arrived at the cemetery, I walked down a hill, among the white markers covering the hills. Far off, the river glistened and a boat sounded. Other than the whisper of the trees in the breeze, the world fell quiet. Too quiet. I picked up my brochure and read that 13,000 of the 17,000 markers were unidentified. I noticed pennies on top of many markers, remembering Jewish headstones often held small stones. Later, driving home, I called a friend. “Hey, what’s with all the pennies?” While I thought it symbolized a gratitude or respect, his theory circled around freedom. “Some say the dead have to pay to get into the next world. It’s kind of like saying thanks and making sure they can pay their way.” Whether it was true, I liked it. We can never say thanks to these unknown boys, to those who fought. We can never pay them enough for joining the ranks of the quiet white.
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