ISSUE #07
On the cover
p. 44
contents. ISSUE #07
A
FASHION
affair
p. 34
Ozzy Shah
Trailblazer IMRAN QURESHI
&
AISHA KHALID in
PLACES
they call their
OWN
MAN ON THE SCENE 34
The Trailblazer - Ozzy Shah
VISIONARY 60
Imran Qureshi & Aisha Khalid in Places They Call Their Own
74
Dreaming Beyond the Edge
STYLE RULES 106 114
p. 60
From the Suitcase of Haiya Bokhari Fashion’s Ultimate Tastemakers
DESTINATIONS DIARY 122
#MyPerfectDubai
p. 106
from the
suitcaseof
HAIYA BOKHARI
p. 154
NEAR & AFAR The
28 30
Destinations Desires Dream Destinations
CAIRO
160
Heal, Pray, Love - with Saba Rana
KEYto OFF THE BEATEN TRACK ART SPEAKS 84 182
196
Cityscape - Why Public Art Matters Pakistan Through the Lens - Mobeen Ansari Faisalabad Literary Festival
TRAVELISTA Before
sunset with
p. 100
MIRA SETHI
100
Before Sunset with Mira Sethi
LET’S DISH 168
The Deli - A Triumph of Taste
A LIFE WORTH LIVING 138
How to Travel Like a Backpacker
WANDERER 154
The Key to Cairo
REFLECTIONS 92
Suitcase of Memories
MY SPACE 144
p. 122
Paradise Found
perfect
#MyDUBAI
PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : FEATURES & COMMISSIONING EDITOR : DESIGN & LAYOUT : OFFICIAL PHOTOGRAPHER : CIRCULATION : MEDIA SALES : KARACHI CORRESPONDENT: PUBLISHED BY :
LEGAL ADVISOR : GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER (DAEWOO) : CONTACT (SALES) :
CONTACT (EDITORIAL) : DISTRIBUTORS: PRINTERS :
destinationspk
MARIAM MUSHTAQ ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH USMAN MUNIR ZOHAIB AKHTAR UBAID-UR-REHMAN ALI TARIQ NAEEM ULLAH YASMEEN HASHMI Daewoo Pakistan Express Bus Service Ltd. 231, Ferozepur Road, Kalma CHOWK, LAHORE, PAKISTAN +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 BASIT WAHEED WATTOO SHERIAR HASSAN USMAN HAYAT +92 334 423 4681 (NAEEM ULLAH) naeem.ullah@daewoo.com.pk +92 333 488 8203 (KHAWAJA AMMAR) khawaja.ammar@daewoo.com.pk +92 335 455 5764 (ALI TARIQ) NATIONAL NEWS AGENCY TOPICAL PRINTERS
destinations.com.pk www.destinations.com.pk
destinationspk
Hira Ali How to Travel Like a Backpacker p.138
contributors Fifi Haroon
Maliha Rehman
Sona Datta
Zarmina Rafi
Suitcase of Memories p.92
Fashion’s Ultimate Tastemakers p.114
Dreaming Beyond the Edge p.74
Cityscape Why Public Art Matters? p.84
Fifi Haroon has been a leading journalist and media producer for over 20 years. She earned degrees in politics (Bryn Mawr), law (Cambridge University) and Media Anthropology (SOAS, London University), the last as a Chevening Scholar. She has written extensively on travel, film and pop culture for many publications and websites including The Independent and Newsweek Pakistan. Haroon works as a senior broadcast journalist and presenter for the BBC World Service in London in both Urdu and English. She has sung with Junoon and tweets to over 55,000 followers as @fifiharoon.
Maliha Rehman has been a leading fashion and lifestyle journalist in Pakistan for more than a decade. She is currently a fashion correspondent for the country’s most widely-read English daily, Dawn and for the online portal dawn.com. In addition, her work features frequently in local and international magazines. Her critiques and analysis have made her an authority on Pakistan’s nascent fashion industry and her forte also lies in writing detailed profiles on some of the most sought-after celebrities in the horizon, sketching them into life with her words.
Sona Datta is an art historian and cultural collaborator. Her work extends across museums, biennials and television. As Head of South Asian art at the Peabody Essex Museum in Massachusetts, she has extended the purview of that museum’s worldrenowned Modern Indian Art Collection to now include the best contemporary art that references all of South Asia. She previously worked at the British Museum for 8 years where she redefined the British Museum’s engagement with modern collecting through the acquisition of contemporary art from Pakistan that linked to the historical past. She lives in London with her husband, two boys (and no dog).
Zarmina Rafi is coauthor of the monograph Shurooq Amin (Ayyam, 2014), on the work of the first Kuwaiti female artist to exhibit at the Venice Biennale. Rafi has worked with leading contemporary Arab artists including Abdulnasser Gharem Ajlan, Thaier Helal, Tammam Azzam and Rashed Al Shashai. She has worked at Ayyam Gallery, Al Serkal Avenue, Dubai, the Lahore Biennale Foundation and at the Berlin Biennale #9.
20
editors note from the
F
DESTINATIONS’ second cover is no less spectacular, for it features the power couple of the art world, Aisha Khalid and Imran Qureshi. Internationally renowned for their thought-provoking works of art, these contemporary miniature artists talk to us about inspiration, their new home, their collective love for Pakistan and a recent trip to the mesmerizing Hunza Valley. Meanwhile, art historian and museum curator Sona Datta weaves a compelling tale of retrospection based on the works of both Khalid and Qureshi, chronicling how their life and art are inextricably intertwined.
For many, the start of a brand new year is a time of reflection. A time to look back at the year gone by, ponder over lessons learnt, adventures undertaken and journeys completed. As we at DESTINATIONS look back at our year, one that marked the launch of the magazine and saw it establish itself as the definitive voice on travel and lifestyle, we are filled with gratitude at the overwhelming response from our readers and resolved to continue on our mission to bring you the best of Pakistan and abroad. That’s a promise that is executed masterfully in our cover shoot for our New Year Special Edition. Featuring the sublime Sadaf Kanwal and shot by the maestro himself, photographer Abdullah Haris, our editorial shoot creates history by bringing the best of international couture to Pakistan. Feast your eyes on divine creations by Christian Dior, Valentino, Oscar de la Renta, Reem Juan and Roland Mouret, styled under the skilful eye of top international stylist Ozzy Shah. In a complementing feature, the London-based Shah, stylist to the stars, discusses his Pakistani heritage, his rise to fame from a Vogue intern to styling shoots for leading international publications such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar and dressing divas such as Monica Bellucci.
ASMA CHISHTY
PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
In yet another nod to DESTINATIONS’ position as one of the country’s leading magazines, we were amongst the select few handpicked by the Dubai Tourism Board last month for a chance to discover the real Dubai, beyond the swanky malls and the glitzy high-rises. Read all about the 4-day trip in our special Dubai segment, and open your eyes to a side of the city rarely seen by tourists, one that is marked by true Emirati hospitality and culture. Meanwhile in Pakistan, leading journalist and media producer Fifi Haroon provides a rare personal insight into the life of one of the most prominent families of the country, as she remembers the Karachi and Hyderabad of her cherished childhood. Also in this issue, journalist and actor Mira Sethi writes an engaging account of her recent Parisian sojourn, while designer Hira Ali gives us tried and tested tips for backpacking across the USA. Yoga practitioners Saba Rana and Azmat Alibhai discover the pristine coast of Gawadar and the chaos of Cairo respectively; while architect Fatima Zaheer Khan takes us on a tour of an idyllic country retreat nestled in the heart of rural Punjab. For all these tales of travel, exploration, cutting-edge fashion and lifestyle, turn the pages of our New Year Special and feast your senses.
ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH
FEATURES & COMMISSIONING EDITOR
MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR
NEAR & AFAR Our guide to what we’re currently loving.
1
The Crown Based on an award-winning play (“The Audience”) by showrunner Peter Morgan, this grand saga chronicles the life of Queen Elizabeth II from the 1940s to modern times. The series begins with an inside look at the early reign of the queen, who ascended the throne at age 25 after the death of her father, King George VI. As the decades pass, personal intrigues, romances, and political rivalries are revealed that played a big role in events that shaped the later years of the 20th century. Billed as Netflix’s most expensive show to date, the lavish period drama is a riveting watch.
2
Café Latch The latest addition to Lahore’s hippest new food street is Café Latch. Located in Mall 94, Gulberg (close to Mocca Coffee), the swanky new restaurant combines an eclectic décor and varied menu. From comfort food such as broccoli soup and hearty carbonara pasta to delectable bites in the form of wasabi prawns and fried calamari, there’s something to appeal to all tastes. Make sure you save room for dessert, for chef extraordinaire Muneeze Khalid’s sweet offerings will leave you craving for more. 28
myfashionfix.com Retail therapy just got more exciting – the new online store myfashionfix.com, a labour of love by renowned fashion journalist Andleeb Rana, promises a fun and eclectic shopping experience unlike any you’ve had at a local e-store. Its pull – some of top names in the fashion industry have created capsule collections for the store that you won’t find anywhere else, and everything is available for less than $200. This your chance to grab exclusive outfits by the likes of Ali Xeeshan, Shehla Chatoor, Wardha Saleem, Sania Maskatiya and Sara Shahid to name a few, all from the comfort of your favourite couch.
3
4
Fendi Bag Straps If there’s one trend that’s been ruling the style circuit in recent years, it is that of customization. And Fendi’s Strap You line lets you bag the trend in the most fashionable manner ever. The label’s collection of bag straps is designed to let you personalize your handbag to suit your mood and your personality. From leather to studs, exotic colours to luxe textures, there is no shortage of options to choose from. This season, let you strap not your bag do the talking!
5
Snapchat Spectacles Looking for a fun gadget to gift your techie friend this holiday season? It’s time you jumped aboard the Snapchat Spectacle bandwagon, for it’s a craze that’s taking the world by storm. Snapchat Spectacles might look like ordinary sunglasses but in actuality, they are camera-enabled to record videos and let you upload directly to Snapchat. Because you’re not waving a camera or a smartphone in anybody’s face, the Spectacles allow you to capture precious moments without being intrusive or obvious. In fact, the usefulness of the gadget goes much beyond the realm of entertainment, for it was used recently by a UK teaching surgeon to livestream an operation to students. While it’s not easy to get your hands on the Spectacles (people have reported waiting in queue for up to 10 hours!), they’re definitely worth the hassle.
29
NEAR & AFAR
Abbottabad
Whether you’re craving a domestic getaway or eyeing a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels.
Abbottabad
How to get there: Located 110km north of Islamabad, it’s easy to access the hill station through a picturesque drive on the Karakoram Highway in about 3 hours.
Where to stay: Hotel One Abbottabad is situated on Mansehra Road which passes right through the heart of the city.
30
What to do: As the gateway to the formidable Karakorams, the enchanting Himalayas and the deadly Hindukush, Abbottabad is dotted with stunning views and exciting hiking/walking trails. The pine-clad Shimla Hills provide a rejuvenating experience for the whole family, with their easy trails and numerous open-air restaurants peddling hot snacks. The Central Church and the Lady Garden Park are beautiful remnants of the town’s colonial past. The Ilyasi Mosque, with its fresh-water springs, is another must-see monument. Most visitors to Abbottabad include a visit to the nearby town of Thandiani to literally take a walk amongst the clouds.
Abbottabad is a quaint city located in Pakistan’s north. It was founded as a British garrison town in the 1850s, and the shady gardens, church bells and wide streets in the Cantonment evoke the colonial era.
How to get there:
Megève
Megeve, Franceost
One of world’s m iconic ski destinations, Megeve was created by a Baroness of the famous Rothschild family a century ago as a French answer to St Moritz and since then, it has always been synonymous with the best of everything. With its cobbled streets surrounded by enticing restaurants and boutiques, it oozes Gallic charm.
Megève is located just one hour from Geneva. Your best option is to book a transfer car from Geneva airport directly to the ski resort. Since it’s close to Sallanches railway station, just 12km away, it’s also easy to access Megève by rail from London, Paris, and other major European cities.
Where to stay: Les Fermes de Marie is a super-chic, rustic retreat offering romantic bedrooms, a stylish spa, ski shop, children’s programme, good restaurants and a relaxed, woodsmoke-scented atmosphere. The nine mountain chalet-style buildings are made of reclaimed timber and clustered in four acres of Alpine garden on the outskirts of Megève.
What to do: Megève offers downhill runs, snow parks and cross-country trails. Its pedestrian center has cobbled medieval streets dating back to the 13th century and with an open-air ice rink, horse-drawn sleighs, and a grand church, it makes for a great walking route. Lots of smart clothing, jewellery and antique shops add to the chic atmosphere. A Mecca for foodies, Megève is also home to the only three-Michelin starred chef in the Alps. The surrounding slopes, located within the Mont Blanc massif – and extending to 445km thanks to connections to neighbouring ski areas – are some of the most scenically attractive in the skiing world.
31
MAN ON THE SCENE
34
THE TRAILBLAZER By Mariam Mushtaq
International stylist and fashion director Ozzy Shah’s client list boasts of iconic names such as Vogue, Tatler and Nike. Recently in Lahore for DESTINATIONS’ cover shoot, he opened up about his life and his work.
MAN ON THE SCENE
L
ondon-based stylist and fashion director Ozzy Shah is known for creating beautiful style statements for A-list celebs and top publications across the globe. From Monica Bellucci and Nargis Fakhri to Vogue, Tatler and Harper’s Bazaar, Shah’s list of clients reads like a who’s who of international fashion. In his spare time, he likes to frow at fashion weeks, lunch with Pakistan’s Prime Minister when in his country of origin or let himself loose in a Gucci store. DESTINATIONS caught up with the international stylist during his recent trip to Lahore to talk about his inspiring rise to fame. Tell us about your childhood. Where did you grow up and how did you develop an interest in fashion? I was born and raised in Bradford, Yorkshire and I come from a very traditional Pakistani household. Fashion wasn’t ever an option for someone growing up like me, in a closed set-up. In our culture, however, clothes and dressing up are essential to most events and celebrations so I think I was always influenced by fashion.
36
DESTINATIONS
What’s your earliest fashion-related memory?
When did a career in fashion become an option?
It’s actually quite a funny story. For my 6th birthday, my mother bought me a Thomas the Tank Engine playsuit to wear to my party. When I saw the outfit, I just cried my eyes out, because what I really wanted to wear was a gold frock! I think my mother was horrified but my dad is the one who always took my side and never suppressed my creativity. He took me shopping and I bought myself a bright gold lame dress that I wore to my party with white tights from Marks & Spencer.
I came to London to pursue a degree in Media Studies. I hated the course because it was very academic, and that wasn’t me at all. One day my teacher sat me down and asked if I had ever considered a career in fashion since I always looked personable. That was the push I needed to switch to London College of Fashion. I didn’t tell my family right away but broke it to them gradually over the course of a year. My mother’s first reaction was, “Kya darzi ban rahay ho?” 37
MAN ON THE SCENE
What was your first styling job? During my stint at Vogue after college, I was assisting one of the fashion editors on a shoot and she told me that I should stop assisting and branch out on my own. I was mortified and scared at the thought initially but then she paired me with Mario Testino’s first assistant. You have to understand, in the West the industry is very hierarchical – an assistant only ever speaks to the assistant so for me to land a shoot with Mario’s assistant was a huge deal. The shoot we did together was for a German magazine called Interview. How did you gravitate towards styling, and not the more mainstream branches of fashion such as designing or photography?
What are the three most important traits that someone wishing to pursue a career as a stylist must possess?
While in college, I landed an internship at British Vogue. At a publication like Vogue, the fashion departments are all about styling since all magazine editors are involved in putting together looks for editorial shoots. I was deeply influenced by that. The internship was temporary but once I finished my degree, Vogue called me back and offered me a position.
Firstly be patient, because in this industry you are going to suffer a lot of knock backs. Secondly, be a go-getter. And lastly, have common sense. Yes it’s important to have knowledge of fashion but it’s equally, if not more, important to know right from wrong. So many young people these days unfortunately don’t have that sense.
You’re a graduate of the London College of Fashion. Do you think an academic degree is essential for one to pursue a career in fashion? How far did your studies prepare you for the professional world? Education in fashion is a waste of time and money. You only need a degree if you want to become a designer because you need to build your portfolio and your graduate collection is the start of that. But for a stylist or a make up artist or a photographer, a degree means nothing. What matters is your experience and your contacts. I have a friend who used to be a scientist and he hung up his white coat to become a stylist! In my 8 years of working professionally, no one has ever asked me where I studied; but they do want to know where I interned. My advice to those aspiring to take up a career in fashion (other than designing) would be to save the tuition money and focus on getting a good internship. 38
You’ve worked with some of the top international brands and publications; when you look back at your career, what do you think has been your proudest or most memorable moment? There was a moment just over a year ago, when I stood back and thought, “Yes, I’ve made it.” I was on a shoot that I just didn’t want to do but couldn’t get out off; I had told my assistant to make up an excuse and get me out of there. As fate would have it, my agent, completely out of the blue, called and told me that she was sending a car to pick me up right away. Turned out Monica Bellucci was in town for a shoot. Her team had fired the stylist in charge and had requested for me instead. This was 10am and Monica had a flight to catch at 1pm, giving me only a couple of hours to grab some outfits and reach the set. When I did, I realized the shoot was actually part of the Bond film Spectre campaign. That was an OMG moment for me.
Nargis Fakhri
39
MAN ON THE SCENE
GQ UK 40
Tell us about your other celebrity clients.
How would you describe your personal style?
Other than Monica, I’ve styled the band Girls Aloud, actress Margot Robbie and I’ve just started working with Amara Karan from The Night Of. The show has done really well internationally and Amara, who is originally from Sri Lanka, has been nominated for the Golden Globes. I’m looking forward to dressing her for the red carpet.
You’ll often find me in a baggy top and skinny jeans. I’m not the tallest of men so I feel slim pants elongate my legs. I also love statement jackets; I have a Christopher Kane leopard print one and one from Alexander McQueen that’s encrusted with Swarovski crystals.
What’s the best part about your job? That no two days are the same. One day I’m working on a campaign, the next day it could be a photoshoot and the day after a styling job for a celebrity. It never gets boring and repetitive. And the most challenging? When you’re styling a celeb and they don’t fit into the clothes! Most sample sizes are a 6 and most celebrities don’t have a model-size figure. I remember this one time, I was styling an actress and
What do you love about Pakistan the most? I visited Pakistan this year after about a decade and what I appreciated was how much the women enjoy fashion, and looking good. Pakistani women are very classy and chic; I don’t know if it’s to do with our colonial past but there’s something very regal about their style, even in a simple shalwar kameez. Hina Rabbani Khar is the epitome of that.
No two days are the same. One day I’m working on a campaign, the next day it could be a photoshoot and the day after a styling job for a celebrity. It never gets boring and repetitive.
NOTHING fit her. In the end, I got rolls of cling film and wrapped her in it. I put duct tape over that, oiled the tape and pushed her into a dress. It was a live recording and the minute she sat down, the dress ripped in half from the back! Luckily no one saw and she kept her cool and carried on.
Your family is from Pakistan. Does your heritage influence your work? A hundred percent! It’s something that’s an integral part of who I am. Growing up in a traditional Pakistani family as I did, I was surrounded by clothes. My mother and my aunts have influenced me a lot. Even though my own style is quite dark, I love anything that’s gold or red when it comes to work. That definitely comes from my heritage.
There’s a downside also that I see, especially when I flip through the society pages of magazines. Pakistani women will wear a Zara dress but feel the need to pair it with a Birkin or a Chanel or Valentino rockstuds. They won’t think to go to Chanel and buy a beautiful but discreet dress that’s half the price of the bag; they’ll want to spend money only on something that ’s blatantly from a designer label.
You were recently in Lahore to style DESTINATIONS’ cover shoot. Tell us about that. It was such an incredible experience. Shooting with the Badshahi Mosque as a backdrop was magical and surreal. In Britain, we get to hear of such a warped side of Pakistan but seeing this beautiful shoot happening right in front of my eyes made me so proud. It made me see how innovative Pakistanis are; they have this hunger to create.
41
MAN ON THE SCENE
GRAZIA CHINA What trends should fashionistas be looking to incorporate into their wardrobes this season? The focus this season is on big arms. Everyone from Dior to Givenchy is doing statement arms, whether it’s a frill or a pouffy sleeve. The vibe this season is very boho; the normcore trend of the past few seasons, with its focus on clean and unpretentious pieces as symbolized by white sneakers, is on its way out. Who are your style icons? Carine Roitfeld, the former editor-in-chief of French Vogue. She epitomizes Parisian chic and just oozes glamour. Then there’s Victoria Beckham, who is just so London, so cool, such a fashion-forward working woman. Their styles are poles apart but they both do it so well. Who are your favourite designers?
TATLER HONG KONG
I am absolutely loving Gucci at the moment. I think I’ve bought 80 percent of their current collection. I love the fact that in this age of doom and gloom, Gucci has the ability to transport you into a fantasy and create a fairytale moment. It’s one of the very few labels that’s done commerciality well - the pieces not only sell but are able to invoke an emotional response in the viewer as well. They make you feel beautiful and take you to a magical place.
CITY A.M. BESPOKE MAGAZINE 42
ELLE SINGAPORE
43
A
FASHION
affair
44
Feast your senses on luxe gowns from Oscar de la Renta, Christian Dior, Valentino, Roland Mouret and Reem Juan styled by internationally acclaimed stylist Ozzy Shah. Against the backdrop of the majestic Badshahi Mosque, the sublime Sadaf Kanwal is shot by fashion photographer extraordinaire Abdullah Haris.
PHOTOGRAPHER : STYLING : MODEL : HAIR & MAKE-UP : JEWELLERY : TRANSPORTATION : COORDINATION :
ABDULLAH HARIS OZZY SHAH SADAF KANWAL HANNAN SIDDIQUE SOLITAIRE DESIGNER JEWELLERY DAEWOO CAB PRIVATE LIMITED ZAINAB MALIK
A FASHION AFFAIR
46
Dress: Roland Mouret
A FASHION AFFAIR
48
Dress: Valentino
A FASHION AFFAIR
Dress: Reem Juan
Dress: Dress: Reem Reem Juan Juan
A FASHION AFFAIR
Dress: Valentino Shoes: Christian Louboutin Location: The Nishat Hotel
53
A FASHION AFFAIR
54
Dress: Christian Dior
A FASHION AFFAIR
Behind
Scenes the
with Ozzy Shah, Abdullah Haris, Sadaf Kanwal, Hannan Siddique and Team DESTINATIONS.
56
57
58
59
VISIONARY
Photography: Ubaid-ur-Rehman
IMRAN & AISHA QURESHI KHALID
PLACES they call their in
OWN By Zahra Hidayatullah
61
A VISIONARY
isha Khalid and Imran Qureshi are the power couple of the art world. Internationally renowned for their thought-provoking works of art, these contemporary miniature artists talk to us about inspiration, the importance of space, their new home, their collective love for Pakistan and a recent trip to the Hunza Valley.
On a crisp winter afternoon, the kind of day when the sky is a hazy grey and the sun is a blurry yellow shielded by thick cloud cover, we make our way towards the house of Aisha Khalid and Imran Qureshi. It is rush hour as school traffic blocks off most of the roads leading to their area. As our car weaves through side roads and navigates through short-cuts lesser known, we soon find ourselves on a leafy street in a peaceful neighbourhood. Branching off the main avenue, this dreamy lane is an anomaly as its quiet aura belies its central location, remaining unaffected by the city noise of our rapidly-expanding metropolis, Lahore. As the gates slide open, we find ourselves facing a stark white Santorini-inspired modern Greek structure defined mainly its large Swedish-styled wooden door. A bright coloured Vespa strategically parked outside hints at the life we are to find inside in contrast to its minimalistic exterior. The aforementioned symbolic door swings open and we are warmly greeted by the lady of the house, Aisha Khalid. One of Pakistan’s leading contemporary artists, Khalid’s work falls under the umbrella of the “Neo Miniature” art form and through the use of intricate and repetitive geometric patterns and floral motifs, she explores Pakistan through reflections on its social and political issues, cultural stereotypes, and focuses on the complex relationship between East and West. The creative impact of her art has earned her great renown both at home and abroad and her works have been displayed in celebrated exhibitions across the world and are also part of the permanent collections of M+ Museum (Hong Kong), Victoria and Albert Museum (London, UK), Fukuoka Asian Art Museum (Japan), World Bank (Washington DC, USA) and the Aga Khan Museum (Toronto) amongst others.
62
As one enters the house, we meet the master of the house, Imran Qureshi. An award-winning contemporary miniature artist, Qureshi’s work juxtaposes seemingly serene compositions with grave imagery. While frequently using the floral design discipline, he uses his brush to reflect on the troubled past and certain disturbing events of a present-day Pakistan. His work has been displayed in solo exhibitions at Corvi-Mora (London), Pao Gallery, Hong Kong Art Center (Hong Kong), Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac (Paris) and is represented as part of permanent collections at major institutions including The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York and the Victoria & Albert Museum, London. While the works of this power couple of the art world are most original in approach, subject matter, technique and rendition, there are certain elements that seem to inspire both husband and wife. Both are part of the Neo Miniature Art Movement. Both use repetition as a style of artistic expression and both seem to employ the floral design discipline from time to time. And the most common factor between the two is that the underlying theme of the works of both artists remains Pakistan. A sense of peace and calm pervades the house as one walks inside. There are no fat couches and no big screen TV substituting conversation in the living room. It has instead been replaced by rare books on art, priceless art work adorning the walls, artifacts from around the world, customized furniture requiring only prompt seating and an open space kitchen that joins the living room, hence enabling an environment that allows the free flow of ideas and discussion; in total, there’s much to inspire the ordinary mind.
63
VISIONARY
We sit and talk to them about inspiration, the importance of space, their new home, their collective love for Pakistan and a recent trip to the Hunza Valley. A magical place famed not only for its scenic landscapes but also the warm hospitality of its people, it is located in the fabled northern areas of Pakistan and peopled with a population that is widely educated, very progressive and habitually unprejudiced. Congratulations on your new home! It’s lovely. Who were the chief constructive and design forces behind this project? AK: Thank you! Well, Raza Ali Dada was the chief design architect and then being artists ourselves, we had our design input too. From the exterior to the interiors, it seems to have all been planned out beautifully and methodically, in clean symmetrical lines. Everything from the art work to the colour palette, to the furniture and the layout of the house is in perfect sync with each other. Tell us about the creative process that led to the construction and decoration of this house. And how would you describe your design aesthetic? AK: To begin with, we had a few initial ideas that we discussed with Dada. We wanted our home to have a minimalistic design aesthetic but be homey and warm at the same time. The kitchen also holds great significance for us as we always like to invite people over and serve them food. Imran and I along with our children all like to cook. Therefore, we felt the kitchen should be part of our house, not a separate entity existing in isolation. In fact, our main home window is through the kitchen.
64
Our key concern was that no part of the house should be shut off to any of us. It is thus that our living room, drawing room space is common, and interestingly the kitchen is also part of it. The furniture, designed by us, is tailor-made to suit this house. IQ: Designing and putting this house all together was an organic rather than a deliberate process. Since we have spent much time in our lives traveling and collecting things, we felt that our new home should welcome all those things so in a way it also serves as a museum curating all our travels and special moments. Architecturally speaking, it is an open plan house with no extra walls and no unnecessary barriers within. Large windows make sure we have abundant natural light during the day. What role do surroundings and space play in the life of an artist? AK: Surroundings are a defining element in the work of an artist. Space matters. You know if I look at my earlier works, I realize that when I used to sit and draw in the corner of my old bedroom, I was painting small-scale miniatures. With time, as my space has grown, so has the size of my canvas. So I would say it matters a great deal where you’re working and where you’re living.
65
VISIONARY
66
67
VISIONARY What are the primary sources of your inspiration? AK: I would say the best part about travelling is it fills you with inspiration and motivates you to begin new work. I always have my sketchbook with me when I travel. I use it to doodle, take notes and write down impressions. But on a recent trip to Hunza, I experimented with new mediums of expression. I met and interacted with so many people whom I photographed and made short videos of. IQ: Travel. It gives the mind the space to think of new thoughts. You recently made a trip to Hunza, Gilgit Baltistan. Was this your first time up north? How would you describe your initial impression? AK: Technically, it is not my first time up north, rather the third or the fourth. I’ve been to Kalam, Kaghan, Naran and Swat in previous trips. But it was my first time in Hunza, Gilgit Baltistan. Although Imran had travelled here before, I had not. And I am so glad I finally did. The skies are so clear, the air so crisp and the rolling hills so green. The mountains, they were not only high but huge in size. The whole experience has left me in great awe. I had never seen apple trees before. To see them hung low with ripe fruit, gosh! The whole scene felt like it was heaven. And just when you think you’ve seen it all, you come across the marvel that is the Attabad Lake. As we were driving from Hunza towards the Khunjerab Pass, we crossed a 17 km long tunnel and came out on the other side to see the bluest lake one could ever see that held a clear mirror reflection of the skies above. It was all so surreal, like fantasy! No matter how high-tech the camera lens, it simply cannot capture the beauty of this place. The sky was so clear and the mountains, they were not brown or any other colour but the most unprecedented shade of ochre one could ever come across, and the water! The water was the most sparkling turquoise ever. How did you get there? Was it an arduous journey? AK: Not at all. We flew from Islamabad to Gilgit and then we drove up to Hunza and from there, another two and a half hours to the Khunjerab Pass. It was a smooth drive on the carpeted road leading all the way to the Pak-China border. In fact at 16000 ft, it is the highest paved road in the world.
68
“Travel. It gives the
mind the space to think of new thoughts.�
69
VISIONARY
“The best part about travelling is it fills you with inspiration and motivates you to begin new work. �
70
71
VISIONARY
Aisha, your work features a significant number of social and cultural stereotypes revolving around women. How do you feel about the people in Northern Pakistan and their attitude towards women?
AK: The wedding was a lovely affair. The old women sat around sporting their traditional cap and cheering on the men who were dancing in the centre of the room where the bride and groom were. It was truly joyful watching these people live their lives to the fullest. They live well and eat well.
AK: The people of Hunza strongly believe in empowering their women through education and work. We ate at a local dhaba (food joint) run by two women. It is a small place where they serve freshly cooked food. It’s lovely. They prepare the food in front of you and serve it fresh off the stove. It feels like home.
In Hunza, apricots are in abundance. I remember a breakfast we had at Cafe de Hunza which serves excellent food including, dry apricot juice, fiti – a local bread to be eaten with plenty of butter, dawdoo soup, hand made noodles and chapshoro – a pizza style bread with chicken filling.
We started conversing with Chand Bibi, one of the owners (since the other was away) and were inspired by what we learnt. Both the women support their families and fund their children’s higher education. Bibi’s daughter is a student of Masters in Information Technology and her son is doing his Masters in Business Administration. The people of Hunza are strongly determined about educating their children. These two, like countless others from the region, work very hard to ensure their children are able to complete their education. In fact sometimes they end up working even at odd hours but feel perfectly safe going home late and returning back to work early.
The hospitality is also unmatched. Chand Bibi, who runs the dhaba (food joint), confirmed our booking for breakfast the next morning and made sure she was there early the next day to serve us our promised meal despite her previous late-night shift. She served us like a host, not like a restaurateur. There were no fixed servings. She insisted we have more and wondered if we had liked her food or not, since we couldn’t eat more. There was excellent yak-meat and hand made noodles all for only PKR. 100/ per person, and even that she felt shy charging us. Breakfast included some of the best pancakes in the world, fresh omelettes, home-made butter, pure honey and apricot jam. We ordered some goat milk tea. The quality of food, the atmosphere, her warm hospitality, it was the perfect morning.
The people of Hunza are a sophisticated and hospitable lot. This year, 1.3 million tourists visited Hunza. The hotels ran short of space and the locals extended their homes to the visitors.
Sounds amazing. Tell us more about the local hospitality, culture, people and food. IQ: The people of Hunza are a sophisticated and hospitable lot. This year, 1.3 million tourists visited Hunza. The hotels ran short of space and the locals extended their homes to the visitors. The people of Hunza are also quite particular about principles such as cleanliness and regard for their elders and guests. We were invited to the valley for a dinner by one of my students who belongs to the area. He then took us to a local wedding. We were glad to be part of such a wholesome atmosphere. There was no segregation. The men and women interacted freely as one unit. 72
What impression has this trip made on you all as a family unit? AK: It’s been one of the best trips of our lives. Our children are at the perfect age to travel along with us. We hiked together, walked around, enjoyed the sites, learnt fascinating facts and details about the two historical forts we visited, Altit and Baltit. Imran and I travel a lot together for work but traveling as a family always brings us closer. As we share new sights and new information, we grow together and that is a beautiful thing. Next year we plan to explore more of northern Pakistan and hope to go see Skardu. Fingers crossed!
73
VISIONARY
Dreaming Beyond the Edge
The painted poetry of Imran Qureshi and Aisha Khalid By Sona Dutta
London-based art historian and museum curator Sona Datta weaves a compelling tale of retrospection based on the works of art couple, Aisha Khalid and Imran Qureshi. A poetic narrative, her piece draws upon their artistic expression and creative drive, and chronicles how their life and art are inextricably intertwined. It lists the spirit behind their emotional motivation, which is at the core of their very being, in the shape of the beating heart of their beloved country, Pakistan.
75
VISIONARY
I
n 2011, when I visited Lahore as a curator at the British Museum, I had the good fortune of being hosted by Imran Qureshi and Aisha Khalid. It was a rich and revelatory trip but as I write this now and think back fondly to my first visit to Pakistan, and as I think about artists and their creative drive, one moment has really stayed with me.
We were returning by nightfall from a day-trip to the Rohtas Fort, a little outside of the city of Lahore, and stopped at a roadside dhaba (the traditional Punjabi equivalent of a service station). It was November and the night air was cold. As we sat wrapped in shawls, huddled on chairs around steaming cups of tea, a Pakistani painted truck illuminated with iridescent lights turned into the parking lot, the outlines of the juggernaut incandescent with neon blue and green as if some strange creature from the deep ocean had floated into our vision. But it was Qureshi’s reaction that has stayed with me. “Wow” came a quiet, slow and impassioned expression of wonder. Like a magnet Qureshi was pulled towards the spectacle as the slow moving beast came to a standstill some twenty feet away from us. With eyes transfixed, he pulled out his camera and attempted to commit the vision to memory. The playful, innocent wonder of a small child was a gift to behold. Imran Qureshi and Aisha Khalid are leading contemporary artists from Lahore. They are also married and have recently built a new home where they work and live with their two young sons. Life and art are inextricably intertwined and at the core of their very being is the beating heart of their beloved Pakistan: a new country with an old (and important) history. Both studied Mughal miniature painting at the National College of Arts in Lahore in the early 1990s at a time when the expansion of what a modern miniature might be was yet to be determined. Both have had a profound impact on this process of self-determination. Indeed, both students under the tutelage of visionary educators like Zahoor ul Akhlaq and Salima Hashmi found themselves at a moment when tradition and innovation were to collide in new and unexpected ways. This was a time when the burden of growing up under General Zia’s military dictatorship weighed heavily on creative and impressionable minds. At every turn there were conduits and dead ends as the NCA administration found itself playing cat and mouse with the military junta in a bid to fulfil its pedagogic duty. During his time at NCA, Qureshi ran the student puppet society and found himself deeply embedded in all manner of dramatic arts. Performance has been a source of inspiration for many of Qureshi’s experimental ideas. While the hanging of pictures within frames on walls was never really part of the South Asian tradition, the performative has always been deeply embedded in the Indo-Pak psyche. These early activities were Qureshi’s introduction into expressing contemporary issues within traditional formats. The arts of South Asia have also always been about a rollicking good yarn and Qureshi’s pull towards story-telling started as early as the bedtime stories he listened to from his beloved grandfather, which made an indelible impression on the boy Imran’s mind.
76
“Moderate Enlightenment”
Today, Qureshi aspires to disrupt the illusion of the performative frame by the framing of stage, which later translated to the framing of narrative within his painted works, most notably his diminutive but mighty series entitled “Moderate Enlightenment.” “I… represent bodies in a more abstract and performance-based way; at times there is no literal presence of a body but a strong sense of ‘someone’ in these works… the way I transform and stylize the figure and its background completely changes the original meaning. I am surprised when people describe me as a ‘figurative painter’. I would never categorize myself in that way. What is important for me is that the work has some kind of narrative, even if the imagery is completely abstract and non-figurative. I think perhaps this is due to my strong affiliation with miniature painting, in which storytelling is an essential element.”
77
VISIONARY “Every morning, since childhood, as soon as I wake up I read the newspaper. I have always been interested in my country and its politics and it’s a habit that has influenced my art practice. In 1990, on my first day at art school, there was a pile of chairs in the middle of the studio. Our professor, Salima Hashmi, asked us to draw it as a still life. Instead of choosing a white sheet of paper, like my classmates, I chose that day’s newspaper, which was full of news about unrest and agitations, and drew the piles of chairs on that.” Qureshi’s approach to performance is almost Shakespearean: for him “all the world’s a stage” and it is this stage he presents, deconstructs, drops you into and then propels you to the edge of to consider larger narratives at play – most often in his sense of the birth and growth of this young country. Talking about his shift in palette, Qureshi describes how “In 2009 and 2010, Lahore, where I live, was a main target for Al-Qaeda. There were bomb attacks almost twice a week. They destroyed the city. There was a blast near my house. I had very nostalgic connection to one place I used to go to with my wife, Aisha – a market that had been full of life. After this blast it was transformed into a bloody landscape. That was when I switched to using a blood-red tone.”
78
“And They Still Seek the Traces of Blood”
“The Roof Garden Commission” at Metropolitan Museum, New York
Eleanor Nairne of The Barbican described Qureshi’s recent show as an “epic distillation of labour… The works themselves speak of hours bent over an easel, executing tiny strokes with the customary squirrelhair brush.” Amid the quiet labour, blood-red pigment and chaotic streaks intervene in otherwise serene compositions. Tiny, meticulous strokes of paint are applied with a gesture of magnitude. And as Qureshi’s mark-making spills out of the borders of pictorial space, onto the walls and the floor, we are surrounded by and immersed in the theatre of his painted world. After winning the 2011 Sharjah Biennale for his breathtaking installation “Blessings Upon the Land of My Love,” Qureshi’s practice shifted in scale to a larger forum, beyond the borders of wasli. Any place became his ‘canvas’, from the rooftop of the Metropolitan Museum in New York to the nave of Truro Cathedral in England to a stone tower in medieval Sienna. The expanded canvas was both delicate and strident as opposites became reconciled in his work: violence and beauty, life and death, darkness and light. From the poetry of violence with its emotional scarring come the seeds of new life, of hope and a sense of boyhood wonder at beauty and the possibility of growth. In this way, Qureshi confronts people’s expectations of the jewel-like traditional Indian miniature, disrupting its visual field as people enter the work emotionally and physically and, walking on it, become embedded in the performance themselves. “Blessings Upon the Land of My Love”
79
VISIONARY
A
isha Khalid’s work is a celebration of beauty through the marriage of craft and concept. Her training in the miniature department at the NCA is similarly parsed with her traditional upbringing and an early encounter working with textiles as an activity that was solely the preserve of women at home. Khalid still works at home but home today is a state of the art minimalist space, replete with the old and the new, the traditional and the modern constantly at play with one another and designed by celebrated architect, Raza Ali Dada. Khalid’s traditional upbringing has informed her reflections on the position of women in Pakistani society. The thing that constantly draws me to Khalid’s practice is the way in which I am seduced by beauty, by pattern and its satisfying symmetry. Yet the final statement is never declarative. Khalid upsets the apple cart by not subscribing to any one view. For me as a British-born Hindu woman of Indian descent, I find the ambiguity and nuance in Khalid’s hand utterly beguiling, full of sensitivity, complexity and richly riven with multiple layers of meaning. In Khalid’s painted world, the claustrophobia of an interior space is met with the unseen eyes of the veiled or camouflaged woman. Within her painted box, which has the illusions of a mathematical construction by Escher, a hidden female form is submerged becoming part of the fabric itself. There is comfort in the order and symmetry of geometric patterning in Islamic art and at every turn, Khalid plays with pattern and with the social ordering of ritual. Ritual is in training the eye on pattern. Khalid finds refuge in this but even as she does, there is always an underlying narrative that serves to disrupt.
80
“Pattern to Follow”
“Kashmiri Shawl”
Aisha Khalid’s breath-taking 2009 “Kashmiri Shawl” is a seventy-foot hanging. The intricately hand-made traditional paisley pattern constructed with 300,000 gold-plated pins is suspended in a way that one can walk around it. For Khalid, the sharp pins symbolise the pain of the people in occupied Kashmir, from where her own ancestral roots originate. She took this process to a new scale with the 2015 work “Your Way Begins on the Other Side” created for the Agha Khan Museum in Toronto, a massive six metre long tapestry of 1.2million pins used to create an intricate pattern. On one side the pins protrude to form a silken carpet. On the other is a Persian carpet as the pinheads create outlines of a garden filled with animals. But we are beckoned not only to be seduced by the magnificent reference to the Mughal Garden, a recreation of Paradise on Earth, but to what lies behind, beneath and beyond.
81
VISIONARY The 2009 work “Name, Class, Subject” is a trompe-l’oeil artist’s book inspired by the teaching aids used by government schools in Pakistan to teach writing in Urdu and English. Khalid meticulously crafted each one of the hundreds of pages to look exactly like a ruled exercise book. But there are ‘errors’ in the Urdu pages, reminders of the faults Khalid used to find in her own printed text-books as a girl, such as missing text and lines or badly cut margins. In the middle of the book both English and Urdu lines overlap and blur, a reference perhaps to Pakistan’s complex relationship with its own past and present. Everywhere in Khalid’s gentle oeuvre is the play between perception and reality. Few ancient civilisations have so tenaciously preserved their traditions and an original facet of South Asian art is its conservative nature. Unlike the rejection of tradition at seminal moments in European modernism, South Asia’s modernist project was forged through a highly specific negotiation of its historic traditions, and not through the outright rejection of them. So what is the relationship to tradition and innovation, between the old and the new? Where does creative output find its best expression if not in the rejection of the past but rather in simultaneously accommodating and transforming it?
82
“Name, Class, Subject”
What is celebrated in both Khalid and Qureshi’s work is the act of making, its endeavour. The production itself is like a slow performance and our engagement with it is also part of the performance and life of the work. This is the brilliant marriage of craft and concept; two aspects often understood as diametrically opposed in the western world-view are, under the watchful guidance of these two, given an entirely new edge. Qureshi and Khalid are not noisy and yet their work is pervaded with deep emotion, managing to carry powerful ideas without polemic. This is a kind of painted poetry and both have reclaimed (and transcended) the original function of Mughal miniatures as chronicles of contemporary social issues. The fact that Zahoor ul Akhlaq’s ‘revision’ of miniature painting came about as a result of his encounter with the collections of Indian painting held in the hallowed halls of the Victoria & Albert Museum and the British Museum, speaks to an East-West encounter that is still being explored and celebrated at the hands of both Khalid and Qureshi. For me, Khalid and Qureshis’ worlds are replete with mirrors, whose reflection and refraction create a portal through which my emotions can travel, arrive, resonate and reverberate. They play with the edges, the borders and the frame of possibilities. They understand rasa. It’s fashionable in museum circles of today to talk about the emotional landscape of the artwork like it is some kind of modern neuro-scientific discovery. But the landscape of emotion has always been integral to the arts of South Asia, which has postulated that the aesthetic experience rests not with the work of art, nor with the artist who created it but with the viewer. And it is the viewer that both Qureshi and Khalid place at the centre of their work creating intimate, proximate and intense exchanges.
83
ART SPEAKS
84
Cityscape Why Public Art Matters By Zarmina Rafi
In an effort to enable a broad audience to engage with contemporary art, Goethe-Institut Pakistan, in collaboration with the Lahore Biennale Foundation and VASL, Karachi, presented its yearlong project titled Urbanities – Art and Public Space in Pakistan. A critical exploration of urban space, its complexities and possibilities, with special reference to Pakistan’s controversial and contested urban space, the project brought together a global consort of academics, artists and creative practitioners in a series of events that included artist residencies, exhibitions, talks and workshops.
85
W
ART SPEAKS
hy is it important to create art that engages with the public? How does the resident of a city interact with his or her space? What defines a contested space? Answers to these, and many more, questions were found at Urbanities – Art and Public Space in Pakistan, a year-long collaborative project of the Goethe-Institut Pakistan with partners Lahore Biennale Foundation and VASL, Karachi. Comprising several elements that came to fruition beginning Dec 1st, 2016, the project included two eight-week artist residencies and a two-day programme of panels, talks and workshops contained within the Lahore Biennale Foundation’s fourday symposium, “City in Context.” Opening remarks by Chairman of the Board, LBF, Osman Khalid Waheed and Director of the Goethe-Institut Pakistan, Stefan Winkler, set the tone for the conference. Urbanities invoked insightful conversations and group discussions. The theme for all of these of course was the urban, i.e. having to do with city. Which city, one might ask? To be specific, the cities of Lahore and Karachi, but to open it up, perhaps many of the cities of the Global South (i.e. in Africa, Asia and Latin America), as well as cities the international speakers live and work out of, such as Berlin, Hamburg, Pristina, Cairo and Detroit among
akistan Institut P
thector Goe kler, Dire
in Stefan W
Sara-Duana Meyer, coordin ato
r Goethe-Institut Pakistan
86
others. In this regard, Lahore then served as both focal point, and backdrop, to a truly global consort of academics, artists and creative practitioners. This multiplicity of expertise came through in the line-up of events open for participation and display, notably the exhibition Urbanities which featured the work of resident artists Miro Craemer, Honi Ryan, Inteligencias Colectivas, as well as an opening night lecture-performance on the consequences of unchecked urban development by the Karachi-based duo Shahana Rajani and Zahra Malkani. The exhibition was curated by German cultural producer and writer Sara-Duana Meyer. For this initiative, Meyer also served as project manager for the Goethe-Institut. For Meyer, public space is an important area of consideration. “I am interested in projects that have a social resonance. It was about ten years ago that I first worked on a public art project in Germany. I have not been as excited about working in the arts for a long time as I have been with Urbanities.”
Panel discussions on day one focused on urban creative practices, ranging from presentations on informal construction in small-scale industries to creative techniques as practiced by local artists. On a different panel Miro Craemer, Marvi Mazhar, Adeela Suleman, Kai Vockler and Attiq Ahmed reflected on “contested space” – any space upon which multiple stake-holders have an interest or claim. Such spaces are found world over, and especially so in Pakistan. Environmental lawyer and LBF Board Member Rafay Alam elaborates, “In urban planning, a lack of interaction between stakeholders often means that, when they meet, differing backgrounds and discourse do not allow them to properly understand each other’s points of view.” Interestingly, on day two of Urbanities, speaker Matthias Einhoff gave a workshop on this very subject where local educators, artists and students came together to participate in a mock Town Hall style meeting between different stakeholders – the workshop and subsequent performance was so popular it lasted roughly twelve hours!
Why is it important for us to talk about public space? I ask Meyer. “Space is never only architecture – it encompasses thinking and culture inside itself and its structures,” she explains. And that, I think, is the answer as to why the Goethe -Institut is interested in creating dialogue and art that engages with the public. It is the public that must shape the space it inhabits, and recognize its right to provide input on how its various environments function.
The above mentioned conversations, whether difficult or enlightening, ask us to become invested in our immediate surroundings. Moreover, cultural exchange fostered through Urbanities allowed international visitors to experience Pakistan firsthand. The success of Urbanities can be gauged by the fact that “possibly three future collaborations are in the works between Pakistan, Germany, and Cairo,” reports a representative of the Goethe-Institut, Karachi.
Bernd Kniess, Christopher Dell, Gulraiz Khan, Juan, David and Farida Batool
87
ART SPEAKS
ARTISTS IN RESIDENCE: LITERAL AND CREATIVE JOURNEYS In July 2016, a jury comprised of representatives from all partner organizations met and chose Honi Ryan and Miro Cramer as Germany-based artists who would come to live and work in Pakistan. Pakistan is a “challenging” country, says Meyer. “Often a problematic image of the country has been perpetuated in the media – we wanted our artists to understand the situation on ground, and we wanted to get good people here.” The requirements of the residency were that artists would have a research component to their work, and a cross-disciplinary focus, as well that they would make a right match for the city. Regarding the selection of performance and installation artist Honi Ryan, Qudsia Rahim, Vice Chair and Co-Founder of the Lahore Biennale Foundation says, “It was the emphasis on mundane and everyday activities that one engages in – which are transformed in Honi Ryan’s practice – that drew us towards her project. The mere act of stopping and thinking can be enough to reflect and appreciate the opportunities in our lives.” In Lahore, Ryan’s research methodology included one-on-one walks with locals to different areas of the city, including to Gulberg, Anarkali, Ichra and Model Town (Subjective Geographies). Two Silent Walking Performances took place in the months of November and December, and a 1200ft footpath was developed and placed along Kasuri Road in collaboration with Attiq Ahmed of OCCO. A final piece created for the Urbanities exhibition brought a section of the footpath, complete with dirt and rubble, right into the pristine gallery space. “Simple changes in the city’s urban character, like a demarcated footpath may bring about a change in behaviour, as well as in how we perceive the immediate urban environment while engaged in the act of navigating city streets when walking,” says the artist. The Footpath Intervention was also a chance for the artist to stir up relevant conversations with residents and community in the area, including with commuters, fruit vendors and retail establishment owners from the vicinity. Displaying true Lahori hospitality, during the production phase residents of the neighbourhood invited the artist in for cups of tea while others praised her installation as providing a safe and clean space for pedestrian use. Karachi artist in residence, Miro Craemer is a fashion designer who runs an eponymous design house; at the same time he is also a social designer. As a social designer, Craemer uses fashion not only for aesthetic value, but to bring up questions of how the garment trade operates. In his own fashion studio on Munich’s busy Maximillianstrasse, Craemer incorporates principles of fair trade that ensure all workers are treated fairly.
88
89
ART SPEAKS
Cord of Desires, a social sculpture that the artist created for Urbanities, was situated right outside Alhamra Gallery 1, a garland of flags that hung between two flagpoles. Denim twill formed the frame of each flag, while the inner part was dyed in colours typical to the Indus region. This sculpture was produced with the support and input of art students in Karachi. For the research aspect of his residency, Craemer interviewed Karachi’s textile workers, including the families of those affected by the deadly Baldia factory fire of 2012. Dedicated to the wishes and ideas of the textile workers who are “seemingly the weakest links in the production chain of the global textile industry, this project speaks exactly the same language that the workers are known to speak with high precision: the language of textiles,” explains the artist. Cord of Desires then represents the desires of Pakistani textile workers, and of those who have been disadvantaged within the global garment industry. Having had the opportunity to work with a broad cross-section of the fashion industry here, ranging from high fashion to local craft, Craemer was all praise for the high degree of skill Pakistanis possess in traditional arts such as embroidery. Truly collaborative in nature, both resident art projects encapsulate the spirit of the Goethe-Institut’s mission, which is to facilitate “a real exchange between artists, researchers, curators and practitioners from Pakistan and from abroad. To incite meaningful and relevant projects, to engage the audience and to inspire conversations.”
90
REFLECTIONS
Karachi Photos: From Hameed Haroon’s Personal Archives at White Star Hyderabad Photos & Photo Collage Courtesy: Emaan Rana
92
REFLECTIONS
W
here I live was once the sea.
Apparently waves lapped the shores where my house was later built sometime in the 1930s. That’s why it was aptly named Seafield. But enterprising as humans can sometimes be, we managed to wrestle the waters and claim a home. And so my story began… on a land we won back from the sea and my newly adopted countrymen, the British. Coming “home” to Pakistan is always a journey of mixed emotions and mind wars; a flight that separates fantasy from home truths and defensive rants from fresh misgivings. I drag along my suitcase of memories with me through long airport corridors. It has uneven wheels and bulges at the seams. If it was real rather than imagined, the airline would tag on little alerts on it. Karachi is now my second home. Once a cold, distant destination across the seas, London is now my first. The distance between one and two is traversed by a flight that stutters through Dubai or Doha. I am not one of those that likes to jet back to Karachi on a heaving PIA plane. It’s all too soon and sudden. An abbreviated version of the worst of Pakistan with squealing children, overflowing toilets and aging flight attendants. I’d rather wait till the oven heat of Karachi hits me square between the eyes as I make my way across the immigration barriers to reluctantly join the NICOP queue. I loathe that little laminated piece of “foreignness” I have to use as an invite to return. After all, wherever our fortunes take us, it’s still Dil Dil Pakistan. But am I a woman of the heart or the mind?
94
There is so much to remember about Pakistan. Some of it experienced second-hand through my parents but it lives in my mind as personal history. In the 1940s my home apparently became a hub of passionate resistance to foreign rule. My grandfather, Sir Abdullah Haroon, and Mr Jinnah had been to school together at the Sindh Madrassa and their friendship matured into political strategizing for a new country to be named Pakistan. I had of course not opened my eyes to the world then. But my childhood was filled with stories of the freedom struggle as it played out in the lives of my family. The first emblem of this burgeoning nation was hoisted atop the flag pole on our roof. It seems the tailor stitched the moon and stars together for its first sky and brought the prototype for the Quaid’s approval. Alas for the poor man, Mr Jinnah was not satisfied. He wanted the white of the flag – the part that encompassed the dreams of the future country’s minorities – to be extended, to be fair to all Pakistanis of any ilk of belief. Only then was my uncle, Yusuf Haroon instructed to raise the first Pakistani flag on Seafield. It is a lesson many have forgotten, but to me this is the Pakistan I believe in. When Mr Jinnah became the first Governor-General of a free Pakistan in 1947 my father Saeed Haroon, who was one of the young Turks of the freedom movement, became his aide-de-camp. In my home in Chelsea in London a photograph of my handsome uniformed father standing stoutly by Mr Jinnah is among the memorable frames that dot the side table. Remembrance of things past; the fabric of my life intertwined with many lives and entangled in the history of a new nation – Pakistan.
The Quaid e Azam with his ADCs: My father Saeed Haroon and Mumtaz H. Hidayatullah
95
REFLECTIONS
But isn’t our life always split between places with heart strings tugging in every direction? Mine certainly has been. As a child my two grandmothers, Lady Nusrat Haroon and Shahjehan Khan, embodied pillars of strength in Karachi and Hyderabad – and my life changed gear depending on which grandmother’s roof covered my head. In the main it was Lady Haroon – my Persian grandmother whose word was law in Seafield. A woman that could make Margaret Thatcher look like she was made out of cotton wool not iron. It was whispered she once gave one of my uncles a sound thrashing with her slipper witnessed by his staff when he was a high official in the Ayub Khan government because he didn’t respond quickly enough to her call. Both matriarchs ruled their caboodles like empresses but Amma as we all called my maternal grandmother was perhaps less intimidating to me because her throne was a relatively modest khaat (camp bed) in the main room of the Hyderabad house and the multiple doors to that room were always open. As kids we would eagerly climb on top of her bed and survey the world from her vantage point. Amma would continue to smoke half-cigarettes nonchalantly and yield to our pleas to tell us yet again about Adi Sonal, a Sindhi folk heroine of much wonder. Amma wasn’t surrounded by the stellar political cast of the Haroon home, nor were the historical questions that plagued Pakistan played out at her dinner table. Mind you, she was still queen of her own castle. I come from a family of strong, bossy women on both sides. Women who always got their way. Women who led their men and their children through familial battlefields. It is an inheritance I treasure. The Haroon girls before me went to jail in the freedom movement, joined the country’s first women’s National Guard, learnt how to do a lathi (baton) charge and also managed to attend tea parties at Buckingham palace. They were proverbial wonder women who married well and bore many children. The career woman amongst them was Shaukat Haroon – or Doctor-Aunty as she was called - whose day job consisted of helping Karachi’s women grow their clan at Lady Dufferin Hospital. Doctor-Aunty moonlighted as a central member of Pakistan’s equivalent of the Bloomsbury set. A circle of friends who included the erstwhile educationist “Baji” Majeed Malik (who went on to form the PECHS Women’s College), the artist Sadequain and the poet Faiz Ahmed Faiz. She soon became the latter’s muse and he devoted many lines to profess his ardour including some say the iconic “Gulon mein rung bharrey,” immortalised by Mehdi Hasan. A treasured recording of Faiz reading to Dr. Shaukat Haroon under the shade of a banyan tree at her Karachi residence remains in the family. When she died suddenly from a heart attack, Faiz reportedly locked himself in his room at the Flashman’s Hotel in Lahore for two days. He emerged with an elegy in
96
hand which was was sung soulfully many years later by Farida Khanum: “Chand nikle kisi jaanib teri zebayi ka Rang badle kissi surat shab-e-tanhai ka.” I recall finding first signed editions of Faiz’s poems around the house and later, much later, wondered if a man would ever mourn my passing with such literary finesse. Pitiably, the men of today do not have the poetic passion of a Faiz or Faraz and I am probably destined to die unsung. In the winter months we abandoned the more sophisticated environs of Seafield for the small-town pleasures of Sindh’s second city. This dichotomy embraced the two extremes of my growing years in Pakistan – the political and the personal. In the early years, until I turned ten or so, we used to take the train. I think it was called the Tezgam though it took around three hours to transport us to our temporary home away from home. In later years my father bought a Dodge Dart that he fondly named Rosanna. Rosanna’s speedometer was pushed to the limit to achieve the same feat in an hour while we kids squealed in delight at the back. Surely we had the bravest father in the world? No one could outrun him at the wheel of his old faithful. The Tezgam of the 1970s had uniformed bearers who would bring us grubby breakfast menus – though I am not sure if this is something which actually was or I concocted with the passing of time. What I do remember is that I looked forward to the morning meal for days. Two fried eggs, sunny side up, toast and butter. Nothing particularly different from what we could have had at home but these eggs tasted of adventure and discovery. As the train moved slowly out of the confines of the Cantonment railway station and chugged along the open fields of Sindh I looked out to my Pakistan unfolding before me. There I was, racing towards freedom in the Tezgam. Further and further away from the urban finesse and political circus of Karachi. I could walk, I could run, I would not be scolded. There were no dignitaries to stumble over. My mother’s old home, 55 Afghan Manzil, was a cluster of little abodes around a central courtyard that was always full of hustle and bustle. Innumerable grand aunts and uncles entered and left from a multitude of doors. Everyone was much heartier than in Karachi. Whereas Karachi was a seductive, grander passion, Hyderabad was all tenderness in my mind. It was honeyed romance. The topographical equivalent of my mother, Parveen. My maternal family was of Pakhtun stock softened by Sindh’s sweetness and encapsulated in a fragrant embrace. In Karachi we walked tall and held our head high in high society. In Hyderabad we were held. Kisses were planted on our cheeks by endless relatives. I could choose my lunch from half a dozen kitchens; everyone was eager to pamper and feed the city cousins.
The Haroon girls before me went to jail in the freedom movement, joined the country’s first women’s National Guard, learnt how to do a lathi (baton) charge and also managed to attend tea parties at Buckingham palace. They were proverbial wonder women who married well and bore many children.
The Haroon ladies and children - original photo taken by American photographer Margaret Bourke-White for her Life magazine cover feature on Pakistan and the Quaid e Azam
97
REFLECTIONS Equally I could wander into the lanes that radiated from the house and visit the more humble homes of common folk and play with Akhtari, who was a similar age to me. I would sit on a small wooden stool near the makeshift clay stove while Akhtari’s mother would knead some dough freshly and make us ghee laden bread to share. On the way back I would stop by the small neighbourhood store to pick up toffees with the one rupee a day Amma used to give me as pocket money. It was bliss to be alive and to be young was very heaven. At night we would sleep in the courtyard under heavy razayis (duvets) and mosquito nets. Peering through the filigree of the net at the open starlit sky, a chorus of families huddled together and told stories of the past until we fell asleep in happy repose.
cinema kiosk. Today back in Karachi and several decades older, it’s popcorn and nacho chips in the new, posh cineplexes. A little less shiny and more woebegone since Deepika’s slender charms and Ranveer’s six-pack were banished for a few months. These days the cinema owners are trying to shrug off their self-imposed exile but who knows how it will go. Alongside progress, much of my childhood has been erased from the city. For me the most devastating change has been the sidelining of Jahangir Kothari Parade, once the architectural high point of Karachi now robbed of its pre-eminence by criss-crossing flyovers and rude commercial ambitions. As kids we used to savour our afternoon trips to the Parade, mostly spent trying to climb the pavilion before inevitably slipping down. Today most people slip by the promenade.
Like the bifurcation of my childhood, I am split in two yet again between London and Karachi.
There was also dashing young Aftab, a distant cousin in his late teenage years who had a motorbike, a curled moustache and RayBan glasses. As an eight or nine year old I would sit on the back seat and be driven around the dusty streets of the neighbourhood. This was as close as I got to seeing the real Pakistan as a child – in fast motion on the pillion seat.
Most of our time in Hyderabad was occupied by watching movies again and again and again. My grandfather, Allahnawaz Khan owned a cinema called New Majestic which was run mainly by my uncle, Jahangir. If seats were free we could fit ourselves in every day and stare wide-eyed at Waheed Murad serenading Zeba while sharing newspaper-wrapped pakoray (fritters) from the
So here I am visiting the ghosts of my life. Like the bifurcation of my childhood, I am split in two yet again between London and Karachi. Afghan Manzil was sold off, my mother’s family disintegrated into thin air and different corners of the world. Yet the Hyderabad of my past is packed tenderly into my suitcase of memories. And among the folds is purana (old) Karachi and Seafield. I try desperately to keep these two halves whole in my imagination. The past is my journey to myself. My father’s family taught me the ways of the world, my mother’s family taught me the ways of the heart. Without either I would be incomplete.
The Hyderabad of my past is packed tenderly into my suitcase of memories. And among the folds is purana Karachi and Seafield. 98
Photo collage of my grandmother Shahjehan Khan and grand aunt Zebunissa Khan in Hyderabad
99
TRAVELISTA
100
Before SUNSET with
MIRA SETHI
A former books editor at the prestigious Wall Street Journal, Mira Sethi has made her mark as an actress on our TV screens in the past year. As her acting career soars, so do her literary pursuits, with her debut collection of short stories having just been picked up by international publishing giants Knopf and Bloomsbury. While you’ll have to wait till 2018 to get your hands on that book, for now turn the page to read Mira’s engaging account of her recent trip to Paris.
101
TRAVELISTA
1
2
Time out
In Paris
1. Mira with Daniel, Roxy and Zohra. 2. A cosy bookshop. 3. A scrumptious Chinese Sichuan meal. 4. View from the Victor Hugo Museum. 5. The ultimate “best-selleur!”. 6. Mira’s gorgeous Patchouli perfume. 7. Spoilt for choice! An array of desserts. 8. Strong coffee to start the day!
3
102
4
5
8
7
6
103
TRAVELISTA
T
en years ago, I lived in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. That’s right: my apartment in Paris was a minute’s walk from Madame Eiffel herself. I had gone to Paris to learn French and spent six months in the company of a motley crew of international students. Since my six-month stint in Paris a decade ago, I have visited the city as much as I can — most recently in October of this year.
One of the best Chinese Sichuan restaurants was just round the corner, we were told. A point of note: just because you’re in Paris doesn’t mean you eat only French food. Off we went to “Deux Fois Plus de Piment.” We had been advised to make a reservation, but since it was just Zohra and myself, we decided to test our luck. A grumpy-looking waitress waved us inside a packed restaurant — tiny, just one room! — at 1:50 pm, saying we had ten minutes to choose our dishes. It’s never difficult for me to choose. Within ten minutes, a plate of steaming eggplant in a Sichuan sauce had arrived, along with dry beef with thinly-chopped chillies, two bowls of rice, a bowl of garlic broccoli. The meal was polished in a matter of minutes, with Zohra and myself barely making conversation. Silence is, as you know, the best compliment. The rest of the day was spent strolling in the Marias, stopping by boutiques new and old, vintage and modern. I stopped by the shop of the legendary perfumer Frederic Malle. Malle was born in Paris in 1962 to a family in the perfume industry (Malle’s grandfather, Serge Heftler, founded Christian Dior perfumes, and his mother worked as an art director for the same perfume house). I asked, innocently wide-eyed, what their bestseller was. The saleswoman shot me a dark look: “We are not into best-selleurrr. We do not believe in bestselleurrr. We do not promote zis theory of best-selleurrr.” Chastened, I nodded. She continued: “Whatever iz smelling nice on you is best for you! As simple as zat.” I smiled politely, and walked around the store, wondering, from a range of a dozen scents, what would be nice for me. I sprayed some delicioussmelling Carnal Flower (with top notes of tuberose) on my wrist, and bid farewell to this Angry French Lady who, no doubt, has her heart – or nose – in the right place.
One of the great things about the French is that, like us Punjabis, they take their food very seriously.
I had gone with a friend from Lahore, the jewellery designer Zohra Rahman. We were staying on the periphery of the Marais, home to some of Paris’s hippest art galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. My trip was short: six days. And because I had seen most of the museums and galleries, I decided this was to be a purely hedonistic trip: food, leisure, long strolls through autumn-sprinkled parks. One of the great things about the French is that, like us Punjabis, they take their food very seriously. If you chance upon a reasonably busy café, the likelihood of the food being good is high. On our first day, we tried our local bistro. I opted for scrambled eggs, thickly-sliced chips, and salad. I have to confess: I devoured the chips first, eggs second, and salad last. You can never go wrong with French fries in Paris. A strong coffee followed our breakfast food. And another strong coffee. And another. When in France… 104
As it so happened, we befriended, on our trip, a perfumer from India, now settled in Paris. (The search for the right perfume had become a hilarious topic of conversation). Jahnvi Dameron took us to Nicolai — a small, understated shop of immense charm in the heart of left-bank Paris. (The small stores are the real gems). There, a salesman gave us free reign to spray, sniff, and ask as many questions as we liked. Unusual scents, such as “Vie
de Chateau,” which means “life of a chateau,” were sampled. The scent was all cut grass and tobacco, with top notes of bergamot, grapefruit and even thyme! In the end, I settled on the brilliant and beautiful “Patchouli” which leaves one awash with geranium and orange, with background notes of vanilla and amber. Just delicious — perfect for winter in Lahore. More food was consumed — oysters, steaks, crepes — as the week progressed. Usually one for welldone steaks, I ventured into bloody territory for the first time, and was happily surprised. The French attitude to food is inspirational because they eat everything — in sensible portions. There is always room for dessert, and coffee. Lots of coffee.
Taking the metro seeped me in nostalgia. The names of the metro stops, from my student days in Paris, came rushing back. Paris is a small city. Unlike New York, where the distance from one stop to the next can be as long as fifteen minutes, in Paris you can whiz through five or six stops within ten minutes. It was appropriate, then, that I made my way to Madame Eiffel on the last day, to look at her lit up, surrounded by tourists and locals alike, glittering and glamorous on a cool Parisian night.
The French attitude to food is inspirational because they eat everything — in sensible portions.
105
STYLE RULES
from the
suitcaseof
HAIYA BOKHARI
The top stylist shares her travel tales, tips for nailing airport style and packing right.
Photography: Imran Fareed
107
STYLE RULES
108
F
rom fashion journalist to magazine editor to stylist, Haiya Bokhari has filled the various roles that have marked her professional career with an individualistic streak that has created waves.
Her quirky red carpet style perpetually lands her on bestdressed lists – a flair that she is keen to translate into her role as a stylist. “You’ll never see me plugging a big international brand, whether I’m dressing myself or a client. It’s easy to take beautiful pieces from established brands and make them look good,” she says. “For me, the thrill is to take a blouse from Anarkali and pair it with Asos pants in such a way that the eventual look is diva material and red-carpet worthy.”
It’s an approach that’s worked well, for Haiya’s list of clients reads like a who’s who of the fashion and entertainment worlds – from Mahira Khan, Aaminah Sheikh and Humaima Mallick to Ayesha Omar, Aisha Khan and Urwa Hocane. She’s also styled campaigns for brands such as retail giants Sapphire and Nishat Linen.
109
STYLE RULES
DESTINATIONS recently caught up with the journalist/ stylist to talk about her work, travel and styling tips. What are your favourite trends this season? HB: I’m in love with glitter lips and all things metallic. I’m also pretty thrilled with the return of velvet. What trend would you like to see disappear? HB: Ball skirts. There seems to be no escaping them. Valentino rock studs. Sophia Webster winged heels. Tightly tonged curls. The list is endless. What is your go-to travel outfit? HB: Something extremely comfortable (read presentable track pants or pyjamas) that is also covered since airplanes tend to get cold. I also like to carry a stole or oversized scarf since you never know how clean the blankets provided by the airline are.
Travel
Tips
Compartmentalize your packing. Roll your clothes as opposed to folding. Pack small souvenirs and stuff them in your shoes. Keep a good book and/or an excellent playlist for long transits at airports. 110
The nature of your job is such that you are constantly travelling. What’s your tip for instantly transforming a comfy airport look into a work-chic one? HB: Accessories. The right shoes, a belt or jacket can elevate an ordinary outfit into chic territory . You’re a self-confessed beauty junkie. How do you decide which beauty/make up items to pack and which to leave behind when travelling? HB: Over time I’ve realized that as much as I love collecting makeup I don’t use it as such, particularly when I’m on vacation. I’ll pack my makeup according to what I’m travelling for; bright lipsticks, highlighters, cream blush and coloured mascara for a beach holiday, coloured eye pencils and cream shadows for a city-oriented sojourn and if I’m travelling for work then I pretty much just transfer the contents of my dresser in several different pouches. Better safe than sorry! Name the top three items in your styling kit that you never leave home without. HB: Safety pins, hair pins and a versatile lip colour. If you could choose any person in the world to style, who would you pick? HB: So many people. I’d love to style Kate Bosworth or January Jones or Diane Kruger, not that they need styling. Also Florence Welsh of Florence and the Machines, who’s flaming red hair is the stuff of dreams.
Travel Essentials Perfumes
(Two, a 50 ml bottle and another smaller carry-on that you can dab directly on pulse points)
Hand Cream Body Shop Vitamin E Moisturizer Dior Lip Glow Eye mask My Rings Sunglasses Book Charger and Hair Clip.
111
STYLE RULES What was the last trip you took? HB: I went to Nepal for a week for work. We were shooting a winter campaign which took us to Kathmandu and Pokhara, with the latter being the city we enjoyed more. Kathmandu had a very Islamabad-meetsMurree vibe that kind of didn’t feel like we had stepped out of the country at all and since everyone there understood Hindi, we could communicate with them in our mother tongue. What do you like to buy during your trips abroad? HB: At least one household and jewellery item that are local and reflect the culture/ aesthetics of the destination. What holiday destination are you currently dreaming of? HB: Perpetually dreaming of South America. Brazil and Argentina are my ultimate holiday wish-list. What’s the first thing you do when you check into a hotel? HB: Check if the bathrooms are Muslim shower equipped! What’s the most outlandish request you’ve ever made to the concierge/housekeeping? HB: Probably something extremely mundane like safety pins or plastic bags. I’ve never had a reason to be particularly high maintenance yet on a holiday. What’s your holiday playlist? HB: Depends on the vibe, the country and the company. Aye Rah-e-Haq Kay Shaheedon was strangely the song our entire film crew listened to for 17 days in Sri Lanka recently. What’s your trick for braving long transits at airports? HB: A good book and/or an excellent playlist. Any tips for packing wisely? HB: Compartmentalize your packing. Roll your clothes as opposed to folding them for more space. If you’ve picked up small souvenirs and are worried they’ll break during shipping, stuff them in your shoes.
112
STYLE RULES
Shamoon S
ultan
az
Sana Safin
Khadijah Shah
Faraz Manan
Fashion’s Ultimate
TASTEMAKERS & the Evolution of the Retail Landscape By Maliha Rehman 114
T
here was a time when one had to search high and low for designer-wear in Pakistan. A smattering of ateliers spread out far and wide, catering only to a small exclusive niche. Business was slow, bona fide fashion had only just taken its first fledgling steps while the common milieu generally turned to erstwhile tailors for their sartorial needs. The high street was yet to spiral into the profit-wielding, all-pervasive behemoth that it is today. Back in the ‘60’s and ‘70’s, Sughra Kazmi exported apparel and some of it would be bought by aficionados in Pakistan. Mrs. Kazmi, in fact, stumbled into fashion designing purely by accident. She was involved in exporting rag dolls by dressing them in bridal finery replete with minute embellishments and the dolls’ impeccable dressing got noticed. Suddenly, she began getting orders for life-size versions of her designs leading to the birth of a business that continues to reign over Pakistan’s bridal couture. Maheen Khan, meanwhile, operated from within her home in Lahore and was known as ‘The Seamstress’. Sehyr Saigol’s label Libas took birth in Lahore in the ’80’s and was stocked in Lahore at The Art Centre. Around the same time, Teejays stepped into the periphery, revolutionizing retail by setting up multiple branches across the country and popularizing designs through rampant advertising and by creating wardrobes for TV dramas like “Kiran Kahani” and “Tanhaiyaan.” Also in the early ’80’s, Generation got retail rolling in Lahore, establishing a footing that would enable it to become a powerhouse in the future. These were, however, humble beginnings and the contenders in the market were very few. In contrast, fashion today is a veritable force, with potential viability and a customer-base that is perpetually expanding. 115
STYLE RULES
Today’s retail landscape is littered with multiple options, all clamouring for a slice of pret’s lucrative pie. Fashion, Present Day To a large extent, lawn can be credited for creating a bridge between high-end luxury wear and apparel for the masses. Boasting prestigious designer names, strong aesthetics and the promise of great quality, it was a fabric that instigated mass hysteria more than a decade ago. Traffic jams ensued and a great deal of elbowing, shoving and man-handling would be witnessed at lawn exhibitions, as crowds gathered to buy the latest limited edition collection by coveted designers like Sana Safinaz. The unstitched suits – veritable jigsaw puzzles with swathes of cloth, embroidered necklines and borders galore – would then be handed over to tailors and worn at places where one sees and is seen. And on any given day, at any ‘it’ restaurant across the country, there were likely to be two women eating in the location, wearing the same lawn. Today, though, it is equally possible for said women to be wearing prêt, bought right-off-the-racks from a high street store. Where at one time there was just a Teejays or a Generation, today’s retail landscape is littered with multiple options, all clamouring for a slice of prêt’s lucrative pie. These brands cater to a growing diaspora of working women and others, who can no longer be bothered with errant tailors. Ready-to-wear, in fact, has been spiralling breakneck, literally cannonballing into a retail market that’s getting more and more clustered.
116
Steamrolling into Prêt - Khaadi “There is no denying that the demand for unstitched fabric is still huge and is incomparable to that of prêt. It’s a hobby for women to buy unstitched cloth, design it for themselves by adding in details like buttons and laces and then make umpteen trips to the tailor to get it stitched. Prêt, meanwhile, is particularly popular in urban cities amongst working women,” observes Shamoon Sultan, CEO of Khaadi, a brand that launched in 1998 and has since mushroomed into a retail giant. Khaadi started its journey with basic androgynous tunics created from hand-loomed cotton. Today, its umbrella has widened to include unstitched lawn fabric, home accessories, handbags, jewellery as well as ready-to-wear for men, women and children. The driving force popularizing Khaadi has been the competitive pricing of its products. Other labels have followed suit, resulting in a consistent high-street price war that ensures affordability for customers. At Cross-Stitch, lawn tunic prices dive as low as Rs. 1600 and Satrangi by Bonanza has similarly won its clientele largely on the basis of its extremely economical prices, usually around Rs. 2000. To make things more enticing, seasonal sales take place regularly, sometimes even offering flat 50% off discounts that drive shoppers into a frenzy. Case in point: the notorious Sapphire sales videos that ran rampant on social media last year.
117
STYLE RULES
Sartorial Aspirations But aside from convenience and affordability, another factor that enamours customers is the aspirational value that designer-created ready-to-wear offers. It’s a paradigm that exists the world over; one may not be able to afford bona fide haute couture by an acclaimed designer but one can certainly buy into a whiff of it at a high-street store spearheaded by the same atelier. It’s the reason why Armani has an Armani Exchange line and Alexander McQueen diffuses itself to an McQ. In India, there is an affordable Balance line helmed by Rohit Bal and Manish Malhotra has a diffusion store. Following the same pattern, within Pakistan umpteen designers have now traipsed onto the high-street; among them, Faraz Manan playing Creative Director for Crescent, Khadijah Shah designing for Sapphire, Maria B. with her eponymous label, Sana Safinaz with their high-street stores and Zara Shahjahan with her Coco line. “I am actively involved in the designing process at Crescent just as I am with all my work,” agrees Faraz Manan. “Right now, the price ranges of my designs vary from crores, in the case of my jewellery line, down to under Rs. 5000 in the case of the prêt available at Crescent. Many people can’t afford the former but they buy a sliver of the same signature from the high-street.” Khadijah Shah, the Creative Director at Sapphire, explains how the phenomenal demand for lawn was an indicator that the market was ripe for a prêt invasion. “Lawn’s popularity made it evident that women wanted to buy clothes with a designer
118
aesthetic, given that it was at a reasonable price,” she points out. “At the time, Khaadi dominated ready-to-wear while other smaller stores only took out sporadic collections. It just made sense for Sapphire to launch into the high street. As a textile mill, it was already weaving fabric in-house, printing the fabric in-house and with a business based on exports, stringent quality control was observed. These factors particularly augmented Sapphire’s success when it launched about two years ago. As Creative Director I also made sure that the brand had a distinctive designer ethos – something that I think our customers really appreciate.” Sahar Ghanchi, Product Head at Ideas Prêt by Gul Ahmed further adds, “As a high street brand, we try to interpret local and international trends at affordable price points. It could be a subtle change to the way the sleeve is cut or a capsule collection of custom-made prints. Some of the more modern designs are usually just limited edition collections restricted to our flagship stores but our modern changes to the kurta are rolled out to our over 75 stores dotted countrywide.” One thing that remains common across the board, though, is that fashion retail brands continue to pander to the market for unstitched fabric while simultaneously wooing the prêt aficionado. “Sapphire’s unstitched fabric generally has a pleasing aesthetic and is very comfortable which is why it has a very varied clientele,” says Shah. “However, old women appreciate it more since they aren’t comfortable in the set sizing of ready-to-wear. The younger college girls or professionals generally prefer the ready-to-wear. And because there is new stock in the store every month, they can literally buy affordable wardrobe options every few weeks.”
Prêt, All the Way: Generation An exception to this rule is Generation, a brand that launched in 1983 and has ever since only retailed stitched apparel. “We seriously identify ourselves as a fashion company and thrive on cut and texture,” says Generation’s Creative Director Khadija Rahman. “We love what we do and going into lawn would just undermine our ethos. There are lots of textile companies that can delve into lawn while we continue our focus on innovative fashion that hums a South Asian tune.” Even though Generation has always had a regular, loyal clientele, there was a time when the brand’s popularity fluctuated, affected by the large number of apparel labels popping into the market. This may have been the reason why Generation went through a reinvention of sorts, accentuating its image by taking part in local fashion weeks, putting out unique conceptual fashion shoots and veering its aesthetic into funkier territory.
A booming market for pret is indicative of greater buying power and a stronger economy.
“Our company has evolved to become more inclusive,” says Rahman. “It doesn’t have a controlled atmosphere and designers’ ideas are allowed to thrive. We have a number of lines that cater to unique customer types,
running the gamut from classic, timeless cuts to funky fusion-wear, an indigenously hand-worked line and formals for wed dings and dinners.”
Most other brands try to provide similar variety. Menswear is usually an ignored avenue, although the recently launched Sapphire Man may up the ante. In the realm of womenswear, options vary from unstitched lawn collections to a range of prêt: basic work-wear, modern formals and a smattering of embellished, relatively affordable designs that can work well at weddings. A Khaadi has a Khaadi Khaas, a Sana Safinaz store has a section dedicated to silks and heavy embroideries and Sapphire’s printed silk designs with slight detailings teeter towards evening-wear. Cross Stitch and Threads and Motifz, labels that have long been associated with embroidered chiffon formal cloth, now translate similar aesthetics onto luxury ready-to-wear as well as more economical printed tunics. It all looks promising; a booming market for prêt is indicative of greater buying power and a stronger economy. Then again, there’s always the other side to the story.
119
STYLE RULES
The Ethical Angle “Why are we in such a hurry to ape the West and launch ourselves onto the high-street bandwagon?” veteran designer Rizwan Beyg has been known to question. “They don’t have a traditional history of indigenous craft which is why they rely on machinery to create their ready-to-wear. It is unfathomable to me why we choose to do the same when we have such a vast reservoir of handicraft available to us. Who would want to wear a generic digitally printed kurta when they could wear a tunic painstakingly hand-embroidered in Bahawalpur? People are buying into hype surrounding a brand as opposed to true fashion.” Rizwan’s arguments lead to a debate into throwaway fashion. According to Simon Cipriani, founder of the Ethical Fashion Initiative, fashion is the most polluting industry in the world, after oil. The high-street boom across the globe has allowed women the option to buy affordable on-trend ready-to-wear. On the flip side, the economical pricing has allowed them to wear a design merely a few times before throwing it away and replacing it with other more equally affordable options. “The planet is burdened by 200 billion tones of textile that nobody wears,” says Beyg, “and nobody stops to ask why. They just abide by their herd mentality and keep on buying clothes that are being hyped up on social media. We never stop to ask why or consider that an affordable tunic may be the result of child labour or may use up a large amount of the world’s resources. It’s high time that we become more ethical about what we do in our lives and this includes decisions about what we want to wear.” Internationally, a number of high-street brands have initiated the practice of offering to ‘take back’ or even, ‘buy back’ used clothing from consumers, propagating that clothes should be recycled. One saw Levi’s Pakistan follow suit recently, taking back old jeans and in exchange, offering discounts on new products. Perhaps the local high street, now that it’s on a roll, should abide by similar measures? Beyond the hype created by social media, the buzz generated by advertising and the high of a sold-out collection, brands need to begin thinking ecologically. The high street is undoubtedly responsible for a betterdressed Pakistan; it can also work towards a better Pakistan, overall.
120
Internationally, a number of high-street brands have initiated the practice of offering to ‘take back’ or even, ‘buy back’ used clothing from consumers.
DESTINATIONS DIARY
122
perfect
#MyDUBAI By Yasmeen Hashmi
If you look beyond the high-rises and the glitzy malls, you’ll find Dubai to be a multi-dimensional travel destination with something to appeal to all tastes and ages.
123
DESTINATIONS DIARY
F
or a typical tourist, Dubai’s appeal lies in its man-made architectural leviathan and unparalleled consumerism. It takes a native touch to steer one towards a side of the city that shows the real, honest and simple beauty of Emirati culture. I, along with four other journalists from Pakistan, had the wonderful opportunity to be invited by the Dubai Tourism Board on a mission to discover the true Dubai - “My Dubai” as the residents and locals call it home to the most generous hosts who treated us like royalty! #mydubai experience was a journey of heritage, benevolence and grandeur. It opened my eyes to the fact that beyond the desert safaris and swanky shops, there exist myriad opportunities for any and everybody to have a truly great time. Here are some of my recommendations for discovering Dubai off the beaten track:
124
125
DESTINATIONS DIARY It takes a few ingredients to create my perfect memory.
Hot Air Balloon/ Conservation Safari
The day needs to start early, very early. Eyes starry, in a dream-like haze. The air cool, crisp and clean. Breathe. Inhale. Exist. The focus: an activity, an outdoor activity that exhilarates; I crave adrenaline - fight or flight. The backdrop: nature, virgin nature untouched by man, unstudied by science, with a sense of distance from technology, from social constructs, from the unnatural. Fly, far and away, in a wicker basket like a magic carpet ride over the desert. A hot air balloon ride by Balloon Adventures Dubai is one of the “ultimate things to do in Dubai� and was a much-anticipated event on our itinerary. The renowned company has teamed with the finest falcon trainers enabling them to host a falcon show whilst airborne.
Stunning falcons (that are also incredibly essential to the heritage of the region) have been taught to fly from the hot air balloon across from the distant sunset over the Hajar Mountains in a breathtaking spectacle.
In-flight, one can spot below the ecology of the region - powerful Arabian Onyx, gentle gazelles and curious camels roam their natural habitat with pride. This is an ecofriendly way to view the wild animals that does not harm the creatures.
126
Upon landing, members of the management drive guests in beautifully maintained, vintage 1950s Land Rovers, transporting them from the private desert conservation reserve to an authentic Bedouin camp for breakfast. The Gourmet Breakfast menu includes eggs Benedict, smoked salmon, a range of caviars, freshly squeezed juices, fruits, coffees and teas.
Suitable for all ages (with the obvious exception of babies, the sick and the very elderly), families with children, honeymooners, friends, tour groups and solo travellers have the opportunity to feel the Arabian magic aboard a historical mode of transportation, creating an unforgettable experience. #DestinationsGirl #PerfectMemory!
127
DESTINATIONS DIARY
Food Crawl
128
Dress like Dubai. Work like Dubai. Eat like Dubai! In a country that boasts a deep-rooted culture of sharing sustenance, it came as no surprise that we were continually served hot Arabic tea and offered fresh, juicy dates. Our hosts intelligently planned an international variety of foods throughout our itinerary, and ensured that our palates got a taste of the “global�, the essential spice of Dubai. These restaurants stole the spotlight:
The Artisan by Enoteca Pinchiorri As the manager proudly claimed, “We are not just a restaurant, we are yet another chapter in a rich culinary history, an institution of gourmet excellence… A feast for the senses!” Classic Italian fare served in a cozy setting, the menu includes delights such as refreshing sweet beetroot salad tossed in yoghurt and hazelnut, creamy pumpkin soup, and beautifully seasoned lamb chops. I loved the lamb chops and I do not eat lamb! (Word of caution: these were on the special menu but one can call in and inquire their availability; the staff is delightfully Italian and charmingly engaging!) #fangirl.
Gaucho Ask for Kesha on the wait staff to wait your table; she will guide you through the Argentinean experience in a fun, quirky way. 8.5 only because by the time our steak arrived, I was too full to enjoy my main!
Raffles Hotel & Solo Italian Restaurant & Bar During the first half of our trip, we stayed at the Raffles Dubai Hotel and what a delight it was! The hotel, built in the style of the pyramids in Giza, offers its respect to the grand and luxurious personality of Dubai. Dinner on our first night (after a relaxing afternoon in our wonderful accommodations) was scheduled at the homegrown Solo Italian Restaurant and Bar. The chef prides himself for bringing a modern twist to classic cuisine at this Italian fusion restaurant. Each course was served family style and all guests had the chance to sample each plate. The Diavola Pizza with tomatoes, mozzarella, spicy beef soppressata salami, roasted red peppers and chilli oil sauce was a unanimous favourite
Thiptara, Palace Hotel “Thiptara” which means “magic by the water” specializes in Thai cuisine, especially Bangkokstyle seafood. The views at the restaurant, located by the Burj Lake, facing the iconic Burj Khalifa, give the restaurant’s dinner service some serious pressure to perform. The various seafood appetizers are phenomenal. I also highly recommend giving the miso soup a try. After dinner, ask the staff to direct you to the single bench outside: the Voilà! It’s the perfect spot for proposals and honeymooners, right under the vibrant sparkle of the Burj and gentle splashing of the fountain show. True to its name, there is magic by the water at Thiptara. 129
DESTINATIONS DIARY
Dubai Parks & Resorts Theme Park
130
Accompanied by over 1,500 members of the global media, UAE dignitaries and celebrities, we had the chance to attend the Dubai Parks and Resorts (DPR) inauguration and closing galas. The festive occasion celebrated the official opening of Dubai’s largest theme park destination.
The event showcased the three individual parks (Motiongate, Legoland, and Bollywood Park) in phenomenal performances by the actors and dancers from DPR’s live entertainment team. The occasion marked a milestone in UAE’s history. His Royal Highness Sheikh Mohammad, who was in attendance, applauded the first-ever collaboration between three of Hollywood’s most renowned studios, Columbia Pictures, DreamWorks and Lionsgate, to create the Hollywood-inspired Motiongate. Moreover, Dubai has become home to the first Legoland in the Middle East; and to Bollywood Parks, a first-of-its-kind amusement park that showcases rides and attractions based on some of Bollywood’s biggest superstars and hottest blockbusters. The music celebrated the evolution of Bollywood’s music industry - grandparents, parents, teens and tweens all swayed under its glory.
Additionally, the parks will also host the Legoland Water Park, the region’s first water park accommodating families with young children between the ages of 2-12. The complete destination is interconnected by Riverland Dubai – a distinctively themed retail and dining destination, and guests will be able to stay at the Lapita Hotel, a Polynesian themed family hotel part of the Marriott chain. Our favourite, no surprise, was the Bollywood Park for the #win! The entertainers break out in dance at different spots throughout the parks and the Bollywood-themed souvenirs are well worth the acclaim for their ingenuity.
131
DESTINATIONS DIARY
Dubai Shopping Festival 2017 at the Dubai Mall
Inaugurating on the 26th of December 2016 and closing on the 28th of January 2017, this year the Dubai Shopping Festival has been specially organized to entertain landmark sales and be an unprecedented shopping experiences for all ages. Our last day in Dubai was spent testing out our shopping potential at the Dubai Mall. The mall, which prides itself for being the home of the Dubai Shopping Festival, is one of the world’s largest shopping malls, offering a diverse range of retail, dining and entertainment options. It is so big that I would advice wearing some comfy kicks from Zara, carrying all your valuables in a strappy leather backpack from Mango, and sporting leather camouflage jogger pants from Berksha. It’s best to keep your style sporty chic as to allow maximum movement and visual appeal. Remember, when in Dubai, dress the part! The morning of, I sat down on my hotel bed and worked out a game plan. I believe that shopping abroad, like travelling, requires a high level of discipline. I matched everything I needed with a shortlist of stores that provided those commodities. My extensive list included fashionable sportswear, formal footwear, gifts for younger siblings and grandparents, chocolates and candy. I was in a state of zen as I proceeded to step 2: downloading the Dubai Mall app and marking a shopping route within the mall, minimizing emotional stress and physical exhaustion. As a super tech-savvy millennial, I pride myself for the maximum utilization of my trusty iPhone, and this was a proud moment. Getting to know your bearings before heading to Dubai Mall can help narrow the chances of aimlessly wandering, wasting time, or getting intimidated by one’s surroundings. 132
133
DESTINATIONS DIARY
134
135
DESTINATIONS DIARY
Dubai DESTINATIONS presents a few more must-haves to indulge in while in the city, especially when you need a break from exhausting mall treks.
136
Spas Margaret Dabbs Sole Lounge Dubai Mall
Located at Level Shoes District, Sole Lounge by the acclaimed UK-based foot expert to the stars is a luxurious space for both men and women offering bespoke mani-pedis and consultations with medical podiatrists who address all aspects of foot health.
Retail The cARTel
Al Quoz District Head to this unique showroom to grab that unique, one-off fashion find. Defining itself as a gallery showcasing wearable art, The cARTel brings together avant-garde local and international designers, presenting collections against a backdrop of fashion-themed art.
The Dollhouse
Shop 1, Aswaaq Center, Al Barsha South Founded by popular beauty blogger Huda Kattan’s younger sister Mona, The Dollhouse boasts a glitzy and vibrant décor and topnotch beauty services
One & Only Royal Mirage Spa King Salman bin Abdulaziz Al Saud St., Jumeirah Beach
Located within the most stylish resort in Dubai, the spa is the ultimate haven for those looking for a spot of relaxation. From facials to massages to body wraps, the list of services is endless. The Oriental Hammam is the spa’s crowning glory.
Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa Al Qudra Road, Opposite Endurance City
An oasis of calm set amidst sloping sand dunes, this spa is a welcome break from the madness of the bustling city.
Restaurants Villa Beach
Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Jumeirah Road Looking for a romantic setting far from the madding crowd? Dine by candlelight at this beachside restaurant that offers an innovative seafood menu
Reflets Par Pierre Gagnaire InterContinental Hotel, Dubai Festival City
A fancy, chandelier-lit eatery serving artful French cuisine and cocktails. The eye-watering prices are well worth the lavish experience.
Al Nafoorah
Jumeirah Emirates Tower, Sheikh Zayed Road Al Nafoorah has long enjoyed a reputation for serving the finest Lebanese food in Dubai.
Boutique 1
The Walk, Jumeirah Beach Residence This divine shrine to labels ranging from Proenza Schouler and Peter Pilotto to Roksanda and Alaia offers a personal stylist and beauty consultant for a truly one-of-a-kind shopping experience. 137
A LIFE WORTH LIVING
Downtown Vegas
138
By Hira Ali and Humza Zafar
Want to travel around the world without breaking the bank? DESTINATIONS presents a guide to travelling on a budget and experiencing a city like a true local.
139
E
A LIFE WORTH LIVING
ver get the urge to just pack your things and step out to discover the world? Most of us experience that feeling frequently but the thought of huge travel expenses more often than not nips such plans in the bud. On a recent trip around the United States of America with a group of friends, we discovered that once you look beyond the 5-star hotels, swanky restaurants and expensive shops, a whole new world of adventure and discovery awaits, one that even the most financially conservative traveller can afford. For three weeks, we traversed the breadth of America, covering cities along the west coast as well as the east coast. Our stops included New Jersey, New York, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Long Beach. Travelling on a budget taught us to enjoy these cities like the locals do, overlook the small things that may stress one out on a holiday and most of all, it fuelled our curiosity and allowed us to look beyond our comfort zone. Here’s how you can do it too:
1
TRAVEL LIGHT It’s the best advice that we can give you. Let’s just say we learnt our lesson. Learn it from us!
Buses will allow you only one piece of luggage and one personal bag. Domestic flights will charge extra for checked-in luggage. It will save you the hassle of dragging two pieces of luggage across roads/subways if you plan on using those but of course, you can also Uber or Lyft. We liked to switch between the two, since they offer very similar services.
Brooklyn Bridge
140
6
Subways in New York are open 24 hours.
2
BUY A SIM CARD The first thing you should do as soon as you land at the airport is buy a SIM card. Google Maps and you are BFFs. Your guide to restaurants, bars, parks etc. is all inside one
3
Downtown Vegas
DOWNLOAD APPLICATIONS Download applications like Uber/Lyft on your phone beforehand. If you are lost, these guys will save you.
7
Los Angeles street art
4
CREDIT CARDS Credit cards are your best friends while you travel. Some public transport only charges on credit cards as do your Uber and Lyft apps. Those of you who don’t have it, it’s time to get your hands on one.
Brooklyn New York
SHARING A RIDE Those who want to save an extra buck or two can use UberPOOL, which allows you to split the cost of the ride with other people headed in the same direction. Just keep in mind that sharing a ride means having a flexible schedule since you will be stopping to pick and drop others on the way.
KEEP CHANGE If you plan on using public transport, always keep change especially if you are going to take a bus. Some buses don’t have ticket machines that give you change for your bills. If there is nothing that you can do, however, don’t be afraid to ask someone on the bus to help you out.
In the flight to New York
141
11
A LIFE WORTH LIVING
USE AIRBNB
When it came to accommodation, we picked B&Bs (Bed&Breakfasts) over hotels since they let you use the entire house (almost). You can do your laundry, use the kitchen to cook and even make yourself comfortable in the living room. All our hosts were extremely helpful. Just be careful to follow the rules of the house so you are respectful to the host family and everyone is comfortable. Airbnb is your best bet for landing a great place to stay at. For the uninitiated, Airbnb is a homestay network that allows travellers to rent out rooms or entire apartments/houses/villas directly from owners almost anywhere in the world. You just need to sign up, enter your criteria and hit search. The list of options is endless. Here’s why we love Airbnb:
8
Making bookings on Airbnb is the easiest and most convenient method of booking a place to stay. The best part is you can find accommodation starting from as low as $30 and going all the way up to $100. Sometimes you can even rent couches for as low as $7 a night. Most hosts are very helpful and hospitable. It’s their job to be, as they work quite hard for a good review on the website.
Airbnb is your best bet for landing a great place to stay at.
COST OF THE TRIP To estimate the costs of your trip, visit the website www.rome2rio. com. It will calculate the maximum amount that it will cost you to travel between cities as well as the minimum. Whatever your budget allows, the website will give you options for that.
9
FOOD AT YOUR DOORSTEP The application UberEATS will get you food in bed when you are too broken to step outside.
10
KEEP BATTERY PACKS Since you are doing most of your navigation on your phone, keep battery packs on you at all times.
142
It lets you interact with locals and it’s the closest you can get to “Living like a local”.
MY SPACE
Photography: Ubaid-ur-Rehman
Paradise Found
By Mariam Mushtaq
Fatima Zaheer Khan, senior architect at ZASA, takes us on a tour of an idyllic country retreat nestled in the heart of rural Punjab, one of the many interesting projects she has spearheaded.
145
MY SPACE
I
t’s not easy driving from Lahore to the town of Kamalia in the heart of Punjab. If you’re lucky enough to know your way and don’t need to stop and ask for directions every thirty minutes or so, you still need to navigate the small roads congested with traffic of all kinds – trucks, bicycles, donkey carts and cattle. The four-hour journey can leave even the most adventurous traveller bone-tired but for architect Fatima Zaheer Khan, who made the trek more times than she can remember in the past one year, the final destination always proved well worth the effort.
For one, there’s the breath-taking landscape surrounding Kamalia, a quintessentially rural Punjabi town dotted with rolling green fields and rustic scenes straight out of a Khalid Iqbal painting. Watching the sun rise in a pristine sky over fields of gold is a strangely haunting experience for those used to a purely urban existence. Kamalia is a town whose mention can be found through ancient history. The city, which is now famous for its handwoven khaddar, is linked to Alexander’s legendary Indian campaign of 326 BCE. On this connection, writes renowned travel writer Salman Rashid: “On the homeward march down the Jhelum, Alexander reached the confluence of this river with the Chenab. Here, instead of continuing on down the river to reach Multan as he was intending to do, he chose the difficult route through the waterless desert that we today know as the Thal. At the end of the first day’s march he reached a town where he found a large number of Multani people taking refuge. Believing that Alexander would come by river, they had left their hometown and marched north through difficult country to reach this unnamed town to remain safe. Alexander cordoned the town’s defensive wall. The natives put up stiff resistance, but there being only (on Greek authority) 2000 fighting men (surely an exaggeration), the town capitulated when the entire lot of soldiers were killed. Historians and classical geographers agree that this unnamed town at the east edge of the desert was none other than Kamalia.” Under British rule, the area benefitted from the development of a canal system and the desert town gave way to rich farmland. Fast-forward to modern day, and it is one particular private farm in Kamalia that has been Fatima’s destination – her first major project in Pakistan since her move back from Istanbul over a year ago. Time seems to stand still at this idyllic country retreat, owned by Asma Ramday of Polo Lounge and The Pantry, that not only serves as the perfect
146
weekend getaway for the family but also the site for her polo stables. Fatima, who undertook the design and construction of the acres of outdoor area that include the stables, has created an oasis that seamlessly harmonizes design and nature. A rustic-looking paddock, fenced in with real tree branches, provides the striking focal point as soon you walk inside. To the left is an open courtyard furnished with charpoys decorated with colourful pillows, the perfect place to laze upon and soak up the winter sun as you watch the beautiful horses gallop in the paddocks in front. To the right are the stables themselves, fronted by a magnificent stable door and topped by a charming thatched roof reminiscent of traditional village houses. Interesting details, such as discarded horse shoes to pattern the bolts and locks on the door, and upside down karahis (woks) hung on chains as light fixtures, give it a contemporary twist. “The client wanted to maintain a rustic, village feel and reuse materials from the previous site. For me, the challenge was to design in such a way that I could make use of most of what was already available. It’s easy to design when you have a blank canvas but to do it within a confined area and with predetermined materials takes painstaking thought and effort,” says Fatima. It’s a challenge that the architect has risen to admirably, for in the stunning space, very little seems to have gone to waste. Even old discarded tree logs have been fashioned into benches near the outdoor kitchen, ideal for enjoying a traditional breakfast cooked over wood-fire (there is no gas in the farmhouse). A similar concept of conservation has been applied to the swimming pool, currently under construction, which will be filled with water straight from the tube well that will ultimately be used for irrigation. “The idea was to make sure that the water is recycled, not wasted. The swimming pool is designed to pull fresh water straight from the tube well. From the pool, it flows into a pond and then to the fields,” explains Fatima.
“ It’s easy to design when you
have a blank canvas but to do it within a confined area and with predetermined materials takes painstaking thought and effort.”
147
MY SPACE
During a walk down the cobbled pathway around the paddocks and the stables, stopping every so often to take in the heady scent of citrus emanating from the lush orange trees, DESTINATIONS got to know the talented architect better. How did you develop an interest in architecture?
How would you describe your signature style?
FZ: My father Zaheer Alam Sheikh is an architect. As a child, my playground was his table and I never imagined being anything but an architect when I grew up. I studied at NCA and graduated with distinction in 1998 and began working at my father’s firm. I love what I do; I am one of those lucky few who look forward to Mondays so they can begin the work week.
FZ: While I have an inclination towards straight lines and clean, minimal design, I don’t like to confine myself to a style. The house has to reflect the client and I’m flexible enough to incorporate their wishes into my design. Having said that, you’ll never find a project of mine being ostentatious.
What’s your earliest memory related to what you do? FZ: My father had his office at home when I was growing up and his rule was that come 5pm, no matter how important a project or a meeting, my sister and I could go play at his desk. His setsquares, rulers and architectural scales were my toys and my inspiration. There were no computers back then and drawing boards surrounded his office. I can trace my love for sketching back to this time. I don’t like giving clients 3D drawings, preferring instead to sketch by hand. It has more life, more feeling, especially when it comes to showing the client what I have envisioned for their home.
You’ve worked in cities such as Dubai and Istanbul. Tell us about the experience of practicing architecture internationally. What impact has that had on your work? FZ: The international exposure has helped broaden my understanding of the profession. In Dubai, I worked for a firm called Danway Interiors. My projects included the Malaysian embassy and the office of Karl Mehta, editor of the magazine Cine Blitz. The latter was an amazing learning experience; Mehta is a staunch follower of feng shui and wanted his space designed in accordance to this ancient system. I met with his feng shui master who guided me about yin and yang and principles of good energy.
After that I spent five years in Istanbul; and it was there that I learnt about the retail part of architecture as I worked primarily on restaurant and shops. Language was a huge barrier in Turkey; more often than not, the labour couldn’t understand what I said and I resorted to drawing on walls with chalk and charcoal to explain what What’s the best part about the job? I wanted. My father always told me, ‘if you are technically sound and know what you want, your FZ: The feeling that something that began in my work becomes your language.’ I realized that imagination one day stands before my eyes. It’s been was true after my stint in Turkey. Despite the 18 years since I started work but even now when I see challenges I cherish that time. I got to work on a completed project for the first time, I get as excited exciting projects such as Jamie Oliver’s restaurant as a kid. It’s exhilarating to know that even when I leave in Istanbul. this world, there is something of mine that will remain. 148
149
MY SPACE
150
151
MY SPACE
152
Given that Jamie Oliver is quite the celebrity worldwide, how did it feel to work on a project for him? FZ: The restaurant is called Jamie’s Italian and I was one of the project architects for it. Jamie wanted a rustic feel to the place and while I didn’t get to meet him personally, the experience itself was interesting to say the least. As I said before, communicating with labour was a challenge in Turkey and there were moments when I panicked and thought it would never be completed! If you ever go to the restaurant and see the tiled floor – well, those I have laid piece by piece myself because the intricate pattern couldn’t be understood by the workers. It was nerve-wracking then, but now that I look back at the time, I realize that it’s challenges like these that help you grow and innovate. What interests you other than architecture? FZ: I love photography and I like to pursue it when I have the time. I love photographing faces. I actually used to do it professionally while studying at NCA but when I realized that my grades were being affected, I stopped. I also have an interest in sculpture and painting and would love to take classes some day, when I can find the time.
the farmhouse in Kamalia, I’ve designed a few residences and am working on the Lahore Stock Exchange building with my father. He designed the first tower and is now in the process of making the second one. I was also the architect for the recently opened Jeem store in Emporium Mall and am working on two branches of The Pantry, one in Emporium Mall and one in the upcoming Packages Mall. How is retail architecture different from architecture in its traditional form? FZ: Retail architecture is quite specialized as it combines elements of architecture, interior design and even advertising. In retail, every square inch of space is money and every second that is not used to sell a product is money lost; hence there is a lot of pressure to meet deadlines and to stay true to a brand’s image. This is an exciting time for retail in Pakistan as mall culture is finally picking up. Clients are realizing the importance of welldesigned spaces and of visual merchandising.
I love travelling, I feel it really opens up the mind.
Are you an avid traveller? Does travel influence your work? FZ: I love travelling, I feel it really opens up the mind. The places on my wish list are Morocco, Egypt because I want to see the pyramids, Santorini and Mykonos in Greece, and Cyprus. What’s the best thing about living in Lahore? FZ: My work. When I was away from home, I realized how much I missed working for myself. Nothing beats being your own boss. Yes, its stressful and there is a lot of pressure but at the end of the day, it’s your baby. What projects have you worked on since you moved back? FZ: It’s just been over a year but I’ve been lucky enough to have worked with clients who are on the same wavelength as I am. Other than
Coming back to the farmhouse, what appealed to you about that particular project?
FZ: I had never designed stables before and while it seemed quite challenging, I was deeply interested. I spent hours doing my homework, researching the psyche of animals and the conditions of an ideal stable. My real clients were the horses and the space I designed had to be technically sound and comfortable for them; not just aesthetically pleasing. Whose work do you look up to? FZ: My father, for starters. He’s my mentor and has taught me everything I know today. I’m also an admirer of Kamil Khan Mumtaz for his work in sustainable architecture and Shahid Abdulla for his rustic style. Amongst the new generation of architects, I like the work of Rima Bokhari and Rashid Rasheed. What’s your favourite city in the world and why? FZ: Istanbul. It’s the kind of city that grows on you. I have so many beautiful memories of the place. Architecturally also, it’s a perfect blend of contemporary and vernacular styles.
153
WANDERER
The
KEYto
CAIRO By Azmat Alibhai
Heeding the advice of her yoga guru, Azmat Alibhai discovers how a simple change in attitude made a trip to Egypt, the ancient land of the pyramids, more fulfilling.
155
WANDERER
I
t started off like any other flight. But right after take-off, I switched on my laptop and got the message that changed my life: “Your password has expired, please select a new password.” Changing passwords may not sound like a big deal but on that particular morning, I felt like the computer, my work and the entire world were conspiring against me. You see, we had got caught in traffic, making us super late to catch our flight. I was harassed and the kids and husband were not cooperating. To top it all, we were flying to Egypt to attend a family reunion. We were to meet the “in-laws” I had never seen in my 15 years of marriage. These in-laws were my mother-in-law’s family and quite a colourful bunch, ranging from African, American and South American to European and South East Asian. For some unknown reason the mother-in-law relationship, for many, is amongst the most complicated and precarious relationships ever experienced. Some of the contributing factors may be jealousy, or perhaps it’s the uncomfortable feeling on part of the mother of no longer being needed. Or perhaps it’s just the imagination of the
156
son/daughter in-law who constantly fear that the parents think they are not good enough. I sat there for quite a while and stared at the screen. I thought of a bunch of silly passwords that I was likely to forget the next day and I just couldn’t take it anymore. Why couldn’t life be simple? Suddenly I remembered the advice of my yoga guru: “Choose a password that will change your life.” I didn’t understand what he was talking about then. But just like that – it all became clear. My new password would be my new mantra. With a decisiveness that had escaped me for several weeks I typed in: “flashasmile.” Now whenever I logged on to my computer, I could remind myself to smile. The good thing about smiling is that it is contagious. There was a woman sitting beside me who seemed agitated. She returned my smile and we exchanged a few words, with her commenting that I exuded positive vibes. It turned out she was on her way to an important board meeting and couldn’t get any sleep because of the turbulence. I taught her an alternate breathing technique and a few yoga poses.
Alternate Nostril Breathing This simple, yet ancient alternate nostril breathing exercise is designed to calm your mind, no matter what state it’s in. So take a seat or ideally, get into Lotus position (Padmasana) or sit cross-legged.
1 2 3
4 5 6
Place a fingertip lightly on your right nostril and inhale through the left. Hold for as long as possible. Release fingertip and place on left nostril while you exhale through the right nostril. Inhale slowly through the right nostril. Hold for as long as possible. Release fingertip and place on right nostril while you exhale through the left.
Repeat this process for at least four to five times. Never rush yourself on the inhale or exhale. Always remember to switch nostrils from the one you inhaled with, to the one you exhale from. You’ll be surprised how quickly you’ll clear out your nasal passages.
In this method, you should find your mind steadily grounding itself. It’s quite a simple exercise, really, but has an immense effect on your physiology. You breathe much easier through your nose than you do with your mouth, and forcing air in and out in the manner will rhythmically ensure that your body has well-regulated oxygen flow. I looked around the cabin and everybody seemed to be agitated and restless, just not smiling. Why don’t people smile more often? I got talking again to my neighbour and this time she asked me how I managed to remain so calm. I suppose she had not spoken to my husband or kids who would definitely disagree! I pondered and then immediately realised the power of a smile. She looked sceptically at me as I explained. I listed a few benefits of a smile that popped into my head. Firstly neurotransmitters called endorphins are released when you smile. Endorphins make us feel happier and less stressed. When the release of endorphins is increased, the stress hormone cortisol is reduced. Laughing expands the lungs, stretches the muscles in the body and stimulates
homeostasis. A good laugh can be an effective way to release emotions. Smiling is an attractive expression. We were going to Egypt and that in itself was reason enough to smile! Exploring Cairo reminded me of being back in Karachi. It’s shocking similar in many ways. The prices are generally the same, the streets are just as hectic and dirty, and the chaos is unbearable in both places. Little kids will try to sell you things and beg you for money, pedestrians are seen weaving in and out of passing cars, and the hot sun will make you sweat through all layers of clothing. The only major differences between Karachi and Cairo are that Karachi has a higher population, a higher level of poverty and the people are much friendlier. Sadly, the fascinating history of Cairo and the people of Cairo didn’t seem to correlate with each other. I didn’t feel comfortable walking around this city. Not one bit. That’s why my password became my greatest blessing, an important tool that helped me stick to my goals every single day... SMILE! 157
WANDERER
5
S G N I H T TOP O R I A C N I TO DO 1
Pyramids of Giza it Cairo without
vis You simply cannot wonders of the 7 e th of seeing one in my opinion). world (the best one ids with your eyes Seeing these pyram just can’t explain. is something that I it. And take the You just need to do ound the desert, 2-hour camel tour ar it’s worth it.
2
Cairo Citadeesls
amic fortr This is a medieval Isl a hill in the on ed that’s locat famous for heart of the city. It’s ohammad its landmarks (the M has really it d an Ali Mosque) y. It’s now nice views of the cit site with a preserved historic es. museums and mosqu
3
t Hussein iteDplaiscettoric hang
This was my favour o the location out in Cairo! It’s als li market – a of the Khan el-Khali souvenirs and great place to buy e streets here handmade goods. Th s, restaurants and are lined with shop ve the best vibe shisha cafes and ha in the city.
4
Egypt MuseofuCam iro,
useum Also known as the M nsive collection te ex an s this place ha antiques. I love of ancient Egyptian s one of the museums and this wa es that I’ve ever most fascinating on 120,000 items been to. It has over nt times. It’s the dating back to ancie ated in the main big pink building loc miss iT. square so you can’t
5
ars hatoB Shis m is home so e of
Cairo isha the world’s finest sh e lik (hookah). It seems day, all it people are doing ry ve every day and it’s ing cheap ($1-$3 depend er ov on the place). Head sit d an to Hussein District for ce pla down at a shisha e. the best experienc
159
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Heal, Pray,
LOVE Saba Rana of SOUL Yoga on how yoga transformed her life.
161
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
T
he ancient practice of yoga has been used to aid health and wellbeing for centuries. While much has been written and said about its numerous benefits, it often takes a deeply personal experience rather than a medical fact sheet to bring home its value, especially in today’s fastpaced world. Yoga practitioner Saba Rana, of the Lahore-based studio SOUL Yoga, opens up about how the practice helped her through the turbulences life brought her way and allowed her to discover her soul and live from the heart. What does yoga mean to you? SR: It’s about connecting the dots along my soul journey. I have always been drawn to body movement of some kind or the other. Once I discovered yoga, I felt like my soul was home. Yoga has been a part of my life on and off since many years, but it’s only very recently that it completely transformed my life.
162
How and why did you start it? SR: I used to be a gymnast in my elementary years and had an intense passion for it. I became a gold medallist by the age of 13, but had to give that up as my father was moving countries due to his work every 2 to 3 years. My life took many different turns and my soul felt lost for the most part but I always found myself coming back to some form of body movement. I set up a dance studio in Lahore that promoted yoga, dance, theatre, Muay Thai kickboxing etc. But I couldn’t sustain it due to practical reasons. An on-going battle of being realistic and practical in life versus just simply having the courage to follow my passion went on in my head for some time until I succumbed to the latter. Once I took that leap of faith, there was no turning back. Who was your mentor/teacher? SR: I’ve had several teachers but the one who had the most influence on me is yogi Steve Hall. He is originally from New Zealand and is now settled in Bali, where I underwent my training and teaching experience. His approach
to teaching and his philosophy of life has stayed with me. He was compassionate, kind and always had a wholehearted smile on his face. To always impart knowledge with commitment and to prioritize the spiritual, emotional and physical health of each student was something he instilled in me. To be trusting and compassionate first and foremost; to laugh and spread joy whilst teaching and to offer a space where your students can feel safe and secure – these are the ideals I walked away with. Tell us about your practice style. How did you choose your yoga method? SR: I’m certified in Ashtanga Vinyasa yoga. I chose this style after some research and decided I like it more than the others because it was the closest to dance and flow. Currently my classes are a mix of Ashtanga, Vinyasa Flow, Yin Yang and Restorative Yoga. I like adding new elements to my sessions. Kundalini meditation and the 5-rhythm therapy are some other techniques that I’ve used. What obstacles has yoga helped you overcome? SR: I have had a very difficult struggle with anxiety, insomnia, depression and chronic dependency. My relationship with God led me to yoga. And they are the two main reasons I overcame these battles.
163
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Tell us about SOUL Yoga. Are your classes designed for a specific level or proficiency or can beginners join them also? SR: My classes target both beginners and those at an intermediate level. I take group classes as well as individual sessions. I also design classes/workshops targeting the corporate sector. Employers the world over are now recognizing the importance of yoga as a means of relieving stress, increasing productivity and improving the overall wellbeing of their employees.
Each country holds its own fascination. The connecting factor is mingling with people from all over the globe and the realization that our souls are the same.
What is the most rewarding part of being a yoga teacher? SR: Being able to become a vessel for somebody’s connection to the universe. Facilitating that one meditation or breath that takes you into your vortex. Making that tiny difference in someone’s health or happiness.
sunshine, the ocean and the deeply spiritual nature of the place were all unforgettable. Sri Lanka, where I participated in various yoga style classes and received my Reiki certification, was a completely different experience. Each country holds its own fascination. The connecting factor is mingling with people from all over the globe and the realization that our souls are the same. That’s a very humbling truth. The places currently on my list for yoga retreats are Morocco, Greece, Cambodia, Vietnam and Africa. Tell us about your recent trip to Gwadar. Considering it’s an unusual tourist destination within Pakistan, what was the place like and how did it feel to be able to practice yoga on the pristine coast?
What are your favourite places around the world for practicing yoga?
SR: I am truly amazed at the beauty we have in Pakistan. As we drove away from Karachi and approached Hingol Park just as the sun was setting, we were mesmerized by the scene. Before us lay a long stretch of a single road, vast fields on both sides and the sun setting in the horizon. We stopped the car and simply sat in silence watching the sky turn into an array of purple hues. From there on, it was a voyage of constant discovery of the various treasures hidden in Pakistan. We stayed at the naval base at Ormara and had the beach to ourselves, with not a person in sight for miles on end. The sand was soft as powder, the beach so clean and the water an amazingly warm temperature. It was surreal. I’ll never forget the experience.
SR: Indonesia holds the magic for me. Once I completed my training in Bali, I spent two months in Gili Islands teaching. My daily routine consisted of sunrise and sunset yoga. It was a dream. The eternal
I would like to explore more of Pakistan’s hidden treasures. There are so many historical sites that are worth seeing. I will continue my journey called, “Let’s Yoga Pakistan.”
Do you often combine yoga and travel?
SR: I love travelling and learning/ practicing yoga all over the globe. I’m a wanderlust soul and strongly believe that travelling makes one grow. Connecting through yoga with different cultures and people and learning their views on life is an inspiring and humbling experience.
164
We stopped the car and simply sat in silence watching the sky turn into an array of purple hues.
165
LET’S DISH
The Deli a
Triumph
Taste of
By Yusra Askari
Recently revamped as a fine-dining establishment, The Deli takes you on a gastronomical journey to discover flavours from around the world, dished out with a unique and contemporary take that has remained the restaurant’s signature since its days as a small sandwich shop.
168
Photography: Kashif Rafiq
LET’S DISH
C
ome December, The Deli made a very welcome and longawaited return to Karachi’s ever-increasing list of eateries. Having recently shifted from its home of several years tucked deep into one of Zamzama’s many lanes, following a brief closure the restaurant now neighbours Café Aylanto just off the city’s latest food hub, E-Street. The Deli in its new avatar, revised menu and all, is bigger and better than its quaint former self – the one constant, taste remains king. Tina Mehdi is the inimitable force behind The Deli. A veteran in the business for almost 20 years now, she has recently found a new partner-in-arms in her aunt-in-law, Zari Beg – her long-time mentor who has joined the team as a food consultant. Together the duo promises you “a journey of flavours” and with each course being able to transport you to a different corner of the world, that’s exactly what you get. The menu has been designed so that all in the matter of a single meal service, between aperitif and dessert, you can enjoy a myriad of tastes and gastronomies. “People enjoy good food, be it any cuisine. Over the years, I have come to understand that a good meal is one where flavours are beautifully balanced and amalgamate to perfection,” says Tina who believes in pushing the envelope as far as she can but at a slow and steady pace. The choices are aplenty. There’s something on offer for everyone. You might want to consider a shot of chilled Gazpacho and the bite-sized goodness of the Tortilla with Smoked Salmon and Mango Serrano Crema or Deep Fried Prawns with Mun & Nan River Dressing to open your meal that will effortlessly transition into a wide selection of entrees, boasting a variety of cuisines. Among a host of choices, the menu brings forth some of the finest flavours of the Orient, tastes of the Mediterranean and rustic Italian fare. My favourites, the Zaatir Fish with Citrus Spiked Relish and the Homemade Ravioli with Gorgonzola Cream and Burnt Butter, are complex preparations with simple flavours. And if your appetite allows, you can top all this off with a serving of the decedent Chocolate Roulade or a bowl of Feta & Honey Cheese on a Kadaif Pastry – a strawberry-topped deconstructed baklava sandwiched between the chef’s own version of Turkish ice-cream. Delicious.
170
171
LET’S DISH
172
And The Deli loyalists need not worry if some of their favourites from the old menu failed to make the cut on the new. Be it the very popular Stir Fry Chicken Khousuey, Crab Spaghetti or Vietnamese Steam Rice Wrapper Rolls, there is a take-away kitchen within the premises of the new set-up dedicated to cooking up the restaurant’s signature specials. Having swung back into business with an introductory menu for dinner only during the first fortnight, The Deli will soon be plating up two meals a day. “In my understanding, diners are looking for different kinds of flavours suited to their palate,” explains Tina. “At The Deli, we have always worked towards creating seasonal menus putting to best use the choicest ingredients the different times of the year have to offer.” “To me personally it is of the utmost importance to remain true to my philosophy which in the case of The Deli, is simple and fresh food; hence our logo is green and fresh,” explains Tina who, with her space too, has worked with the same principle.
“In my understanding, diners are looking for different kinds of flavours suited to their palate.”
With its multiple dining areas, sans visual clutter, the restaurant successfully manages to bring the outside in and incorporate its very wellmanicured exterior into its interior. The net-roofed terrace and the courtyard give one the feel of dining under the open sky – an ideal setting for a pleasant Karachi evening. The space is warm, welcoming and not one that overpowers your sensibilities. At The Deli, it is left to the meals served to do all the talking. The restaurant is planned as an escape for the urban setting of hectic city life and translates into reality Tina’s vision, of creating a space that brings together the old and the young, one where a cross-section of generations can bond over a meal. The Deli is evidently a labour of love. Tina believes that whereas positive feedback is undoubtedly heartening, it is critique that she likes to keep an ear out for. “If there are shortcomings, I like to be told. I listen, ponder and think of ways I can better cater to my customers’ requirements. Learning is a never-ending process, it’s the only way to keep evolving.” What a journey it has been for The Deli – from a small sandwich bar to a fine dining experience, things have come a long, long way and there’s certainly no looking back. “This is only just the beginning,” promises Tina. “There’s lots more to come.” 173
176
178
179
180
ART SPEAKS
Bibi Kai, Ramboor Valley, Kalash 2012
PAKISTAN through the
LENS By Asma Rashid Khan
Ace landscape and portrait photographer Mobeen Ansari is a creative force to reckon with. In a candid conversation with Asma Rashid Khan, Founder and Director of Satrang Gallery in Islamabad, he shares his love for exploring Pakistan through pictures of people, places and glaciers that inspire. 183
ART SPEAKS
B
efore we discuss your work, let’s start from the start; tell us about your childhood and the early experiences that made you think of art.
Inar Begum, Shimshal Village , Gojal, Upper Hunza 2016
Well, I lost my hearing at a very young age. While growing up, I would spend most of my time lip-reading and studying people’s body language. This helped me cultivate my visual sense and I became fond of the idea of trying to understand people through art.
However, my interest in photography developed particularly after seeing this one specific photograph of Sir Syed Ahmed Khan where his son is sitting next to him and on his lap is seated his grandson, Sir Ross Masood, who happens to be my grandmother’s grandfather. This historic photo sparked an interest in me and made me want to capture memorable moments too. My grandmother was a very dynamic lady and far ahead of her times. It seems I’ve inherited the bug from her. In addition to being a talented painter, she was also into photography. There’s a lovely photograph of hers the family has preserved where she is seen taking a picture of herself and her three sisters in the mirror. I call it the subcontinent’s first ever selfie! You graduated as a painter from the prestigious National College of Arts, Lahore and later shifted gears to become a photographer. What led to the transition? When I was in college, I would look at a painting and would try to capture it through the camera. Photographs always fascinated me. Although I love painting too, photography is a medium that makes me understand people better, and has over time instilled a sense of deep confidence. I have the privilege of going off to uncharted territories where language can be a barrier, but the camera blurs that line and enables me to interact with new people. You showcase the best from all across Pakistan through its people and its natural beauty. Your book “Dharkan: Heartbeat of a Nation” features not only icons but also the common folk from different areas of the country. There’s much diversity that you’ve captured though the lens and now “Dharkan Part II” will be out soon. What inspired you to do this project? When I was in my final year of college, like almost every other student or person, I too was questioning myself on what I was going to do or how I was going to serve this country and contribute as an artist and photographer. One fine day, while walking through the college corridors, I heard a story about a 104-year-old wrestler, how well he trained throughout his youth and what a celebrated wrestler he was. This made me realize that people are interested in other people, they talk with pride about the great things other people do, hence, I decided to make this book about the people of Pakistan. In this regard, I consider myself very lucky to have photographed people from all walks of life and I make sure that everyone gets equal space in the book; whether it’s a famous person or not; whether it’s someone from up north or down south – they are all presented in equal measure. 185
ART SPEAKS That’s amazing. Tell us, are the people away from city centres forthcoming about themselves? Is it easy to convince them to share a glimpse of their lives through your camera? How do you manage?
In addition to people, we know that you also photograph places, heritage properties, fascinating doors, architectural beauties from a bygone era. How does that interest you?
As a photographer, I am always striving to understand and appreciate the human spirit more and more. It’s what I do! However, to be honest, there are many times when I am faced with a language barrier; that is when it gets difficult to make the subject comfortable. Since I do not speak the same language as most of the people in rural centres across different parts of the country, what I do is, I take someone with me who can speak the same language as them.
I find them fascinating because old places, buildings and doors have so many stories to tell. They give us an idea of different places around Pakistan. By the way they are maintained or not, by their design, by the purpose for which they were made, each of these elements has a way of speaking to you about things in the past and how they used to be, how many residents have passed through, whether it was a happy space or not and so on. I love indulging in history.
The other thing is, I also tend to revisit certain areas and once people trust me then that makes it easier to get the job done. For example, I photographed a lady named Khushal Begum in Wakhan, the corridor that connects Pakistan with Afghanistan, a while ago when I was there. This year when I got a chance to go back, I made sure to take a print of her portrait with me to give to her. She was very happy to see it and invited me over to her place to share a meal with her family. Then there was Bibi Kai in Kalash valley who had previously been photographed by National Geographic photographers. Since she had been photographed before, it was easier to work with her. In fact, her face can be found on Google as well!
186
You seem to be archiving the geographical, social and cultural spheres of Pakistan in a truly wonderful fashion by preserving this time in space through your photographs. How do you look at your work? I consider my work as a study of all three genres mentioned above. Travelling through Pakistan has taught me so much. I have observed a different door in every province, and let me tell you, each one has a fascinating story of its own. I get inspired by different things. There is this glacier in the Wakhan Corridor which really held me enthralled by its sheer scale and magnitude. It is a 1000 feet high. Through my work, I try to reflect on various aspects of our lives. I get to know new people when I am travelling; by trying to speak with them or merely sharing the journey in silence, we are sharing an experience and creating a memory together.
187
ART SPEAKS
Inner Peace, Data Darbar Shrine, Lahore 2014
188
“Travelling through Pakistan has taught me so much. I have observed a different door in every province, and let me tell you, each one has a fascinating story of its own.�
A Girl in Thatta, Thatta, Sindh 2012
189
ART SPEAKS Your latest project is also a labour of love – your first documentary, “Hellhole”. Selected by the New Orleans Film Festival for screening, it will also be travelling to other film festivals across the globe. Tell us more. “Hellhole” was one small part of me trying to celebrate humanity. The primary intention here is to recognize the best among us. Through this project, which is very close to my heart, I am trying to lend dignity to a people whom many look down upon socially – the sewerage cleaners.
These unsung heroes do what no other person would do. They jump down gutter holes full of filth, with all sorts of waste swimming around them – without any protective gear. So I decided to bring them to light and make a short film. I had no script, no storyboard; armed only with a sense of responsibility, I jumped headlong into it. I hope this project can garner enough attention to their plight so that corrective measures can be taken at some policy level.
190
194
195
ART SPEAKS
Photo Credit: Zohaib Akhtar
Literary festivals, with their ability to bring together literati, bibliophiles, or just about anyone looking for a stimulating experience, have gained prominence around the globe. From Edinburgh to Jaipur, Tokyo to Sydney, international lit fests provide a quick cultural fix that focuses not just on literature but on the arts in their various forms.
197
W ART SPEAKS
ithin Pakistan, literary festivals have become a staple on the social calendars of metropolitan cities such as Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad. Faisalabad, the country’s industrial hub, is now joining their ranks and emerging on the cultural map. The first Faisalabad Literary Festival was held in 2014. Organized by Sarah Hayat of First Steps School, Dr Asghar Nadeem Syed, Sheeba Alam and Tosheeba Sarwar, the festival was welcomed enthusiastically by the people of the city and is going strong two years on. This year’s FLF was held on the 25th and 26th of November and featured renowned literary and artistic names such as Bano Qudsia, Tehmina Durrani, Dr. Pervez Hoodbhoy, Kishwar Naheed, Dr. Salima Hashmi, Munno Bhai, Zeba Muhammad Ali, Dr Arfa Syeda, Dr Mubarak Ali, Irfan Khoosat, Sarmad Khoosat and Aftab Iqbal amongst others. The highlight of the festival was the tribute paid to Abdul Sattar Edhi by writer Tehmina Durrani. She presented her book “Edhi: A mirror to the blind” and narrated accounts from the great humanitarian’s life. Durrani explained Edhi’s philosophy and emphasized how he had led his life for the welfare of people. Renowned writers Kishwar Naheed and Dr. Asghar took a walk down memory lane, as they recounted times spent with the legendary Intezar Hussain, who was part of FLF’14 and FLF’15 and passed away earlier this year. Salima Hashmi presented the artworks of various artists while Irfan Khoosat, Sarmad Khoosat and Aftab Iqbal enthralled the audience with engaging accounts of their creative pursuits. Other than the illustrious lineup of speakers, what made the FLF truly special was the fact that its management team was made up solely of women. It is perhaps one of the very few events in Pakistan where females take the lead and a proud achievement for the city of Faisalabad.
Event Photography: Zakir Zaki
198
The Khoosats - Irfan and Sarmad
199
DESTINATIONS ART SPEAKS DIARY
Tehmina Durrani and Tosheeba Sarwar
Dr. Mubarak Ali and Arfa Syeda
Noor ul Hassan
Zeba Ali
Aftab Iqbal
Bano Qudsia
Asghar Nadeem Syed
Rabia, Bunty, Saima and Komal in the audience
Munnoo Bhai and Kishwer Naheed
Dr. Sheeba Alam
201
TALK OF THE TOWN LAHORE
City In Context
Hosted by the Goethe-Institut Pakistan, the Lahore Biennale Foundation (LBF), Beaconhouse National University and the Centre for Culture and Development (CKU), City in Context was a 4-day symposium with a mix of workshops, talks, performances, discussions and exhibitions bringing together poets and writers, theoreticians, artists and architects, musicians, activists, urbanists and various other practitioners from diverse fields of study.
Nazish Attaullah and Salima
Hashmi
Harris Syed, Romana Abdullah, Asma Chishty and
Aroosa Rana
Adnan Madani and Rashid Rana
202
Fatima Fazli
Mira Hashmi
Qudsia Rahim and Abdullah Qureishi
203
TALK OF THE TOWN
Mohsin Hamid
Risham Hosain Syed
Seher Tareen
Noor Aslam
Raza Dada
Ali Sethi Jugnu Mohsin and Najam Sethi
Saba Khan
Rehan Bashir
Nav Haq, H M Naqvi, Quddus Mirza, Risham Hosain Syed, Salima Hashmi, Raza Dada, Qmar Nagati and Haajra Haider Karrar
205
TALK OF THE TOWN NEW YORK
Pakistan Film Festival New York Pakistan’s film industry took New York by storm at the first-ever Pakistan Film Festival, held to celebrate and showcase the remarkable revival of local cinema. The two-day festival kicked off with a dazzling red carpet reception at the UN Headquarters in the presence of Pakistani stars, ambassadors accredited to the UN, community members, Frieha Altaf, Uzma media and movie buffs. Sarfraz Khan and Dr. Maleeha Lo
dhi
Nabeel and Anjum Shahzad
Mahira Khan
Jan Eliasson Deputy Secretary-General of the United Nations
206
Sheheryar Munawar
Sanam Saeed, Soofian Zub eri, Mahira Khan, Tooba Sid diqui, Yasir Hussain, Adeel ra Hocane, Saba Qamar, Hussain, MawDr. Maleeha Lodhi, Mehre en Jabbar, Saba Ansari, Wa Raza and Frieha Altaf jahat Rauf, Asim
207
TALK OF THE TOWN
Former permanent representative to UN for Pakistan Munir Akram and Kelly
Soofian and Fatima Zuberi
Tooba Siddiqui an
d Adeel Hussain
Sarish Khan and Sabiha Khanum
Saad Haroon
TALK OF THE TOWN ISLAMABAD
Art for Education Art for Education in aid of RS Foundation schools was hosted by the British High Commissioner Thomas Drew in the gardens of his residence. The exhibition displayed donated works of art by the following leading contemporary artists: Waseem Ahmed, Jimmy Engineer, Abdullah Qureshi, Ayesha Durrani, Amra Khan, Scheherazade Junejo, Shabir Baloch, Ali Karim, Heraa Khan, Raja Najm ul Hassan, Taha Khan, Shah Abdullah, Saqiba Suleman, Annem Zaidi, Hasnain Awais, Sara Khan and Ujala Khan. The beautiful collection was curated by MyArtWorld gallery and the event was sponsored by Millat Tractors.
British High Commissioner Thomas
Drew and Nuria Rafique-Iqbal
Hassan Gilani and Amann Omar
210
Anjum Alix
Noon and
Christina
Afridi
abjan
Zara Sajid and Zainab Omar Zain
Amina, Nuria, Mahbina Waheed , Shazia Bashir, Gillo Afridi and Gha zala
-ul-Mulk
211
TALK OF THE TOWN LAHORE
Lt. Gen. Shah Rafi Alam Memorial Polo Cup 2016 Polo enthusiasts came out in full force on a crisp winter afternoon to enjoy the final of the Lt. Gen. Shah Rafi Alam Memorial Polo Cup 2016, held at the sprawling grounds of the Lahore Polo Club.
Asim Buksh and Hassan Sheheryar Yasin
212
Saba Rana and Asma
Qudsia Rahim
Chishty
Mahlia, Noreen and Saira
Adnan Jalil Azam
Hissam Hyder and Major General Jehangir Karamat
Areeba, Saniya, Tasneem and Erum
Mrs. Major General The winning team with Mr. and
Jehangir Karamat, Captain
(r) Irfan Ali Hyder and Shamyl
Alam
213
TALK OF THE TOWN CALIFORNIA
Lean In Global Regional Leaders Conference Lean In Pakistan founder Tara Uzra Dawood represented Pakistan at the Lean In Global Regional Leaders Conference in Silicon Valley and was hosted by Lean In author Sheryl Sandberg at her residence. The group is powered by Ladies Fund in Pakistan and provides women opportunities for networking, career advancement and forming professional friendships.
214
T U Dawood and CO
O Facebook Sheryl Sa
ndberg
gner,
rana, Rena Suzuki Wa Abir Abdul Rahim, Sanya Khu Tan Sarah Chen and Virginia
Hanane Benkh allouk, T U D awood and Rachel Sc hall Thomas
215
TALK OF THE TOWN KARACHI
Shell V-Power Launch With the majestic Mohatta Palace serving as the backdrop, Shell unveiled its new global fuel offering, Shell V-Power, in Pakistan. The glitzy ceremony was hosted by Ayesha Omar and witnessed a riveting performance by Sounds of Kolachi.
r Petroleum and NR Federal Minister fo basi Shahid Khaqan Ab
Seemi Saad and Belinda Lewis, British Deputy High Commissioner
Aly Mustansir, Sara Koraishy and Imran Afzal
a and Syed Mohammed Ali
eem Imran Sheikh, Jawwad Ch
Ayesha Omar
216
Mehnaz Mohajir, Syed Haris and Beenish Rizvi
Abdul Basit Khan
Mazhar ud Deen , Nasser Jaffer
The Shell Team
and Jawwad Cheema
and Jam Kamal, Karim Chahpra, Ali Mandviwalla NR and Minister of State for Petroleum
Madiha Khalid
217
PARTING SHOT
A special thank-you to the legendary Abdullah Haris for these collages... what an unforgettable shoot day it was 220
Abdullah Haris
PARTING SHOT
222
Abdullah Haris
ISSUE #07