issue-21

ISSUE #21

Maya Ali

She’s Off to great places!

touring kp’s middle earth with Atif Khan

3 Anniversary rd

special

Stories From Across Pakistan

contents.

ISSUE #21 On the cover

p.44

A WALK in the

CLOUDS VISIONARY 30

Touring KP’s Middle Earth with Honourable Minister Atif Khan

STORIES FROM ACROSS PAKISTAN

p. 66

HUNZA What You Need To Know,

Before You Go

44 A Walk In The Clouds 60 This Is How We Roll 66 Hunza: What You Need To Know

Before You Go 74 How Not To Fail At Hiking 84 An Insider’s Guide To Nathiagali 90 Baisakhi: Celebrating The Colours Of Punjab 104 Kartarpur: The Corridor Of Hope 114 Unveiling Balochistan 126 Exploring The Sounds Of Karachi’s Underground

p. 114

Unveiling

BALOCHISTAN

HOME IS WHERE

THE ART IS

with p. 136

A

FOOD

p. 152

Pashmina Ahmed’s

CRAWL

through

Old Lahore

p. 160

Sarah Najmi Bilgrami

NEAR & AFAR 18 20 22

Dream Destinations Destinations Desires How to Travel Like A Fashionista

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

136

Home Is Where The Art Is With Sarah Najmi Bilgrami

The FASHION FIX 108 146

ISLAMABAD

A Royal Odyssey Mogra Malti

LET’S DISH

152 168

A Food Crawl Through Old Lahore Eating Your Way Through Chi-Town

MY SQUARE MILE 160

Pashmina Ahmed’s Islamabad

ART SPEAKS

176 180

p. 180

From Manora To Venice BNU - SVAD: The Annual Trio

BNU - SVAD

THE ANNUAL TRIO

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : MARIAM MUSHTAQ EXECUTIVE EDITOR : ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER : SHEHAB FARRUKH NIAZI DESIGN & LAYOUT : OBAID-UL-MOHSIN WALI AKHTER SEEMAB UL HASSAN PUBLISHED BY : Daewoo Pakistan Express Bus Service Ltd. 231, Ferozepur Road, Kalma Chowk, Lahore, Pakistan +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : SHERIAR HASSAN MEDIA SALES : UMAIR ASIF CIRCULATION INCHARGE : SHAHRAIZ BILAL DEPUTY GENERAL MANAGER, MIS (DAEWOO) : AMIR MEHMOOD LEGAL ADVISOR : BASIT WAHEED WATTOO CONTACT (SALES) : +92 306 284 6038 (UMAIR ASIF) +92 333 488 8203 (KHAWAJA AMMAR) khawaja.ammar@daewoo.com.pk DISTRIBUTORS: NATIONAL NEWS AGENCY PRINTERS : TOPICAL PRINTERS

destinationspk

destinations.com.pk www.destinations.com.pk

destinationspk

contributors Sidra Haque

Omair Alavi

Yusra Askari

Madeeha Syed

Eating Your Way Through Chi-Town p.168

This is How We Roll p. 60

Home is Where The Art is p.136 Kartarpur: The Corridor of Hope p.104

Unveiling Balochistan p. 114

A Public Administration graduate, Sidrah Haque works in government administration, and spends her free time reading, baking and planning her next travel destination.

Omair Alavi has been writing for different publications since the ‘90s. A bookworm and superhero fanatic (DC Universe bias declared!), he loves to watch, talk and explore films, be it Indian, English or Pakistani. He also follows cricket, hockey, and tennis religiously, and in that order. He can be contacted at omair78@gmail.com and tweets at @omair78.

With a degree in textile design from the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture, Yusra Askari is a print and electronic media journalist, based in Karachi. Having begun her professional career teaching Art History at her alma mater, Yusra is now NDTV’s Pakistan correspondent, doing her bit for better cross border ties, one story at time.

Madeeha Syed is a journalist, an awardwinning documentary filmmaker and radio correspondent constantly looking for excuses to travel. She hates heights but loves mountains; is a long-distance cyclist and certified one-star CMAS diver. And by the end of most trips, a broke backpacker.

Baisakhi, Celebrating the colours of Punjab Mobeen Ansari p. 90

editors note from the

Celebrations! It is our third anniversary issue. What an absolute joy it has been and continues to be journeying across Pakistan. From bringing old wonders to new light, and uncovering hidden gems, we have come a long way in our quest to highlight the best of Pakistan.

Our Peshawar special issue focusing on one of Asia’s oldest living cities - with its indigenous culture, warm people and incredible heritage, enthralled the readers with its unique content showcasing a side of the town rarely seen or talked about anymore.

We followed it up with an edition spotlighting Takht Bahi, a long forgotten Buddhist sanctuary located in Mardan, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. Again, the response was unprecedented. All those who saw it were hooked and they couldn’t get enough of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa- home to the ancient Gandhara civilization.

ASMA CHISHTY

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

It seems the land of many wonders never ceases to amaze. In this issue, we sit down with Mr Atif Khan - Provincial Minister for Tourism, Culture, Archeology, Sports and Youth Affairs, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa - and as he takes us on a visual tour of KP’s dramatic scenery featuring towering mountains, enchanting valleys and rolling plains, he reveals his plans to create a more accessible and sustainable model for tourism across his home province.

Our cover features the screen diva of the hour, the dazzling Maya Ali as she shoots for her upcoming rom-com Parey Hut Love, amongst the majestic mountains of Azad Jammu and Kashmir. However, this edition is not limited to one area alone.

As you flip the pages, you will find incredulous imagery and powerful stories from all across Pakistan. Balochistan with its unseen oasis and orchards; Punjab in celebration of its religious and regional heritage; Sindh defined by the sounds of Karachi’s underground music scene and Gilgit Baltistan has been showcased via Hunza’s breathtaking terrain.

The long and short of it all is that, this season we are off to great places! Love that you are always part of our adventures.

ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH EXECUTIVE EDITOR

MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR

NEAR & AFAR

ELQUI VALLEY, CHILE Witness a total solar eclipse this summer, July 2nd to be exact, in Chile’s beautiful Elqui Valley, considered one of the top astronomical observation destinations in the world. The remote region is home to over a dozen observatories, making it a magnet for both scientists and stargazers and is expected to receive half a million visitors in July to observe the spectacular eclipse. The lush valley is also hailed for its Andes-flanked nature trails and vineyard-covered slopes.

Whether you’re craving a domestic getaway or eyeing a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels.

How to get there: Travel to Santiago, the capital of Chile, from Pakistan via Emirates, with two stop-overs, one in Dubai and one in Brazil, reaching your destination in a little over 24 hours. To reach Elqui from Santiago, you first need to travel to La Serena via bus, a 7-hour journey. Buses from La Serena to Elqui leave every hour and take about 2.5 hours.

What to do: On 2 July, 2019, eclipse-chasers will converge on Vicuña, the main gateway to the region, a 90 minutes’ drive east of the city of La Serena. However, there’s a lot more to the region than the eclipse, such as going on an astronomy tour, visiting the Museo Gabriela Mistral (dedicated to Chile’s first Nobel Prize-winning poet) hiking and horse riding in the secluded valley of Cochiguaz, going on a guided trek around Pisco Elqui, sampling Chile’s finest pisco, and browsing for locally made arts and crafts in the market in Horcón.

Where to stay: Elqui Valley Santiago

How to get there:

Photography: Obaid-ul-Mohsin

LULUSAR

Lulusar is group of mountain peaks and a lake in the Kaghan Valley in the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan. The name Lulusar is derived from the word ‘sar’ meaning ‘lake’. The highest peak has a height of 11,200 ft (3,410 m) above sea level.

The lake is renowned for its crystal clear waters and makes an ideal picnic spot on the way to Gilgit and onwards to Hunza.

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Lulusar Lake is 48 km from Naran Valley on the Naran-Babusar Road, one of the highest roads in the world, taking travellers through Babusar Pass and onto Gilgit. It takes a 1.5 hours’ drive from Naran Bazaar to reach the lake, and it is accessible by any kind of vehicle.

Where to stay: A pit-stop at Lulusar Lake is the ideal break on the journey to Gilgit. Expect to spend about 3 to 4 hours here. If you’re staying in Naran, you can reach the lake in 1 hour and 30 minutes by road.

Get a front row seat at nature’s spectacular show with Outpost Elqui’s pop-up glamping tents. Each tent is furnished and equipped with lighting, hotel bedding and amenities.

What to do: Lulusar Lake is much bigger than other lakes around the valley, and is surrounded by snowcapped hills, making it a natural tourist attraction. From Gittidas, the Naran-Babusar road, one of the highest in the world, goes through the Babusar Pass to Gilgit. In the summer, when the water reflects its surroundings like a mirror, a large number of both domestic and international visitors make the lake a destination stop on their way to Gilgit.

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NEAR & AFAR

3

Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

YOSHI’S Looking for something different to tickle your taste buds this summer? Head over to the newly opened Yoshi’s, which bills itself as an Asian comfort food bar and serves up an explosion of flavours. From Korean fried chicken to rock shrimp tempura, unami fries to Vietnamese coffee, there are myriad options to satisfy your love for Asian food. Not to be missed: the okonomiyaki, which is a Japanese savoury pancake topped with beef, prawn or veggies.

desires 1

COLABS Pakistan’s largest collaborative workspace has recently opened its doors in Lahore, providing coworking desks, private offices and a meeting/event space.

Designed to foster connections, Colabs provides an opportunity to share new ideas and overcome challenges with like-minded people, whether you take a formal approach and network in the communal spaces or casually, over a game of table tennis.

Address: 50-N Gurumangat Road, Gulberg II, Lahore Phone: 0300 8496079

Address: Stadium Lane 2, Phase V Stadium Commercial Area DHA, Karachi Phone: (021) 35248898

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HOPSCOTCH Leading kids wear brand Hopscotch has launched its first flagship store in Karachi at Lucky One Mall.

Catering to 0-14 year olds, the brand’s offers fun, vibrant and trendy clothes and accessories that are comfortable and durable.

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NOBBY Nobby, the latest eatery that has Karachiites buzzing, offers the perfect hang-out spot for a relaxed time out with friends and family.

A project of the dynamic Jerjees Seja, CEO, ARY Digital Network, and his wife, the café features an extensive menu offering breakfast favourites such as blueberry pancakes and waffles, comfort food such as cheesy pastas and succulent burgers, classic steaks and irresistible desserts.

Address: Plot 22-C, Lane 10, Bukhari Commercial, Karachi Phone: 0322 2884961

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5

WRONG NO. 2

The most anticipated Pakistani rom-com to release this Eid, Wrong No. 2 is a rollercoaster ride of great humor, epic romance and upbeat musiWc. Directed by Yasir Nawaz, the film stars Neelum Munir and Sami Khan in the lead roles, along with Javed Sheikh, Danish and Yasir Nawaz, Ahmed Hassan, Ashraf Khan, Shafqat Cheema, Sana Fakhar and Irfan Khoosat.

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NEAR & AFAR

HOW TO TRAVEL LIKE A

FASHIONISTA Cityscapes or the great outdoors – what’s your travel vibe? Whether you seek urban adventures or an escape into nature, our favourite celebrities show you how to do it in style.

Natasha Saigol in Brighton Beach, Melbourne

Sadaf Kanwal in London 22

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NEAR & AFAR

Maya Ali in Europe

Kamiar Rokni in Yazd, Iran

Ayesha Omar in New York

Mahwish Hayat at Lahore Airport

Wasim Akram in San Francisco

Hareem Farooq in Barcelona 24

Shahzad Noor in Shoreditch, London 25

NEAR & AFAR

Mahira Khan and Bilal Ashraf in Nathiagali

Hamza Ali Abbasi in Balochistan

Atif Aslam in Vancouver, Canada

Nina J. Khan in Lake Como, Italy

Sajal Aly in Canada

Anoushay Ashraf in Kashmir 26

Imran Abbas in Turkey

Nida Azwer and Tabesh Khoja in Kashmir 27

VISIONARY

Touring KP’s MiddlewithEarth

Honourable Minister

ATIF KHAN

Senior Minister Atif Khan sits down for a tete-a-tete with DESTINATIONS to reveal his plans to create an accessible and sustainable model for tourism across his home province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. KP’s dramatic scenery – made up of towering mountains, enchanting valleys and rolling plains – is yet to be explored in its entirety and hence is nothing short of being the mythical world of Middle Earth compared to Pakistan’s more popular tourism sites. Dynamic and driven to create a difference, Atif Khan is on a mission to inject new life into the province.

Special thanks to: Usman Khan and Zarak Khan Photography: Amir Khan (Creatve Wing TCKP)

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VISIONARY

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VISIONARY

Y

oung, dynamic, and driven to create a difference, Atif Khan is the new face of hope and change in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. Currently serving as Provincial Minister of Tourism, Sports, Culture, Archaeology and Youth Affairs, the man is on a mission to inject new life in his home province.

Drawing his inspiration for hard work and perseverance from party leader and current Prime Minister, Imran Khan, and in line with the vision of Special Assistant to the Prime Minister on Tourism, Zulfiqar Hussain Bukhari, Atif Khan and his pro-active initiatives on reviving the lacklustre tourism industry of Pakistan are building a new reality for the land and its people.

Given DESTINATIONS extensive coverage of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and its unexplored tourist wonders in the past few months, a common friend, Usman Khan, strongly recommended we meet the honourable minister to see if we could work together for promoting our shared goal.

It was on a warm summer evening at Serena Hotel Islamabad’s swanky coffee shop, Rakaposhi, when DESTINATIONS caught up with Atif Khan. Contrary to our expectations, there were no ministerial delays and no suits in play. He arrived right on the designated hour without any security detail trailing him.

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Dressed in athletic attire, he explained he had returned from completing his daily walk and just like that, the meeting hit off the bat. We launched into an animated discussion where he was very interested in hearing about our journey towards promoting the best of Pakistan.

Our goals and plans resonated with Mr Khan, who being a man of action himself has been traveling extensively throughout the province to unearth some of the world’s most pristine and picturesque valleys and plains.

However, in his quest to create sustainable and eco-friendly tourism, Mr Khan emphasized the need for respecting the land and its people. “It cannot happen without getting to know the local host communities, creating new bonds and making personal connections with them.

I feel it’s important to share their stories with the world and becoming integrated with their lives.”

With these objectives in mind, the minister and his team have initiated some practical measures in order to keep the growing domestic tourism mission on track, such as the following.

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VISIONARY

Integrated Tourism Zones Given the increased interest in tourism over the last few years, and the over-crowding of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa’s most popular holiday destinations, the provincial tourism ministry under Atif Khan has proposed the establishment of 11 Integrated Tourism Zones (ITZ) in the province. These areas will not only serve to showcase the tourist potential of the region but also ensure the preservation of natural beauty, biodiversity, forest cover and promotion of eco-tourism.

The concept of an ITZ, explains Atif Khan, is a completely novel one and is based on international models such as Sentosa Island in Singapore and Nusa Dua in Bali, Indonesia, aimed at creating self-contained tourist destinations in a sustained manner. The areas that have been identified so far include 1) Mankyal, Swat 2) Gabin Jabba, Swat 3) Bayon, Swat 4) Bir Mughalasht, Chitral 5) Golain, Chitral 6) Qaqlasht, Chitral 7) Burwai, Naran 8) Mahaban, Buner.

Shinkiari Hut, Mansehra

Gabin Jabba One of the primary examples of the Integrated Tourism Zones is Gabin Jabba where installation of camping pods has already started. The site that borrows its name from Pushto for honey marshes is located approximately 65 km from Mingora on the Matta Sakhra Road in Swat Valley. It is renowned for its green meadows, thick forests, snow-clad mountains, mineral springs and high peaks.

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VISIONARY

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VISIONARY

Waste Management To curb the environmental impact of a large number of tourists visiting these pristine destinations, the local government has set up an initiative of fining tourists found to be littering in the valleys and mountains of KP. Moreover, a massive awareness campaign is underway involving social welfare organizations, students and community elders to educate locals and visitors about the importance of proper waste disposal. Dust bins have been installed throughout the region and the local district administration has deployed staff to hand out garbage bags to ensure that no litter is left behind.

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VISIONARY

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Tourism Police

Medical Services

One of the most important initiatives taken by the KP government has been the introduction of a tourist police force, which is tasked with providing security and guidance to visitors. During the recent Eid holidays, when almost 2 million people flocked to Swat, Kaghan, Naran and the Galiyat to enjoy the week-long break, 690 newly inducted members of the tourist police were in charge to ensure safety as well as traffic management and control. In addition, according to Atif Khan, the officers, who are well versed in local history and culture, were able to provide proper assistance and support to tourists. In the following months, the tourist police force is set to expand.

In order to deal with emergencies, medical points have been set up at popular tourists spots in KPK and Rescue 1122 teams have been deployed across the province to handle any crisis situation. There are also mobile medical teams on duty 24/7 to facilitate tourists and provide first-aid when necessary.

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AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

A WALK in the

CLOUDS Located at the ancient crossroads of three river valleys, Rivers Neelum, Kunhar and Jehlum, Muzaffarabad is the capital of Azad Kashmir and a place of sublime beauty. It is little wonder then that ace director Asim Raza chose it as the backdrop to kick off his highly anticipated new project, Parey Hut Love. Starring Maya Ali and Sheheryar Munawar in the lead roles, the film promises to be a visual treat. DESTINATIONS was present on set during the film’s first spell in Muzaffarabad to capture all the excitement, the off-camera moments and the breathtaking landscape of this mountain wonderland.

Photography: Jaffer Hasan

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AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

DidYOU

Know

Red Fort, Muzaffarabad Muzaffarabad’s Red Fort was built during the 16th century (1559) by the Chak rulers of Kashmir to guard against potential threats from Mughal Emperor Akbar. It is located strategically atop a cliff surrounded on three sides by the River Neelum. Built on three levels, the main gate opens on the eastern side of the upper level while the lower level once had steps that descended directly into the river.

When Kashmir was annexed by the Mughal Empire in 1587, the fort lost its strategic importance for a time, until Sultan Muzaffar Khan of the Bomba Dynasty, the founder of Muzaffarabad city, repaired and completed it in 1646 for use as a military base.

In 1846, Maharaja Gulab Singh of the Dogra Dynasty began repairs on the fort once again, and his successor Maharaja Ranbeer Singh completed its extensions, giving it the shape in which it exists today. It remained in full military service till 1958, when a new cantonment was built in the area and the fort was abandoned.

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AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

Behindthe

Scenes

Muzaffarabad City

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What are the five essential travel items you always carry?

Maya:

UP CLOSE &PERSONAL

My portable charger Backpack A small dairy with my to-do lists

Read on as we get up close and personal with Parey Hut Love’s lead pair, Maya Ali and Sheheryar Munawar, about their jet-setting lifestyles, favourite destinations and travel styles, in a round of quick questions.

My phone A perfume

What’s your favourite destination in Pakistan?

Maya: It’s really difficult to answer this one because there are so many beautiful places to see in Pakistan. However, whenever I get time off I try to go to Islamabad or travel to the north. I am in love with Gilgit and Skardu, there is peace and serenity to be found there.

Sheheryar: During the shoot of Parey Hut Love I got to visit Muzaffarabad and I have to say it’s my current favourite.

Do you have a travel quirk?

Maya: I’m one of those people who have to unpack completely as soon as they reach their destination, even if I’m staying only for a day. It helps me feel at home; and given that I’m away from home so often, I cherish that feeling.

Sheheryar: I have all kinds of hats and I love wearing them when I travel. So the weirdo at the airport with the big straw hat and scarf you saw was probably me!

How was the experience of visiting Muzaffarabad for the shooting of Parey Hut Love?

Maya: I had a great time with Asim, Sheheryar and the rest of the cast. This was the first spell of the movie and I made a lot of beautiful memories, as well as some terrifying ones!

I’m deathly afraid of heights and some of the shooting locations were atop high cliffs; I was a sight to behold on those days, much to the amusement of the team!

Sheheryar: Like I said it’s my new favourite place to visit in Pakistan. It’s a scenic location with vibrant colours, rich culture and history. The people are warm and approachable and one can indulge in outdoorsy stuff such as trekking, along with the usual tourist-y activities.

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Sheheryar: What’s on your playlist?

Maya: A mix of sounds, including No Sleep by Martin Garrix and Jo Tu Na Mila by Asim Azhar.

Sheheryar: Classic rock from the 50s through to the 70s; 80s and early 90s pop; old school and contemporary jazz (along with house-y mixes); and new stuff ranging from contemporary Bollywood to British hip-hop. So basically, a bit of everything.

Camera, or my phone that doubles up as my camera.

Comfortable shoes/sneakers (I love walking and exploring on my own).

A personal grooming kit (that includes a nail cutter and scissors).

A small notebook to note down ideas or even random thoughts (the feeling of ink on paper is so much better than typing it out on your phone).

Information/literature on the place I’m about to travel to.

What’s your go-to travel outfit or signature holiday style?

Maya: I always wear comfortable yet stylish stuff while travelling – tracks pants, a t-shirt and a scarf.

Sheheryar: Depends on the place honestly. I usually like being comfortable, so a whole lot of linen in the summers but at the same time I can clean up pretty good when I want to.

Adventure bug or comfort puppy, what do you like to do while on holiday?

Maya: Given my hectic schedule, I rarely get the chance to take time off so when I do end up taking a vacation, I want to try new adventures and experience new things.

Sheheryar: Adventure bug in terms of the sort of stuff I will do but I like coming back to a nice clean bed.

What’s the favourite souvenir that you’ve collected during your travels?

Maya: I love collecting fridge magnets and key rings from each country that I visit.

Sheheryar: I like searching for and collecting antiques when I travel. Sometimes it’s just old stuff that I find interesting. For example, an antique pair of opera glasses or a very tiny, century-old sewing machine.

What’s the most exotic food you’ve had while travelling?

Maya: I’m not a foodie so I am not very adventurous with trying new types of food. However, this time in London I experimented with molecular gastronomy and had the most succulent and tender lamb chops.

Sheheryar: Recently, this hole-in-the-wall/grease spoon serving Japanese food joint in Manhattan. It mostly had street and bar food on the menu. It was very different from the usual sort of Japanese food one finds when travelling.

What advice would you give to someone visiting Pakistan for the first time and what food item would you recommend that they must try?

Maya: I would tell them that if they want to experience great culture and meet people with golden hearts, they should come to Pakistan. With regards to food, every city has its own speciality and local delicacies – don’t miss the biryani and nihari in Karachi and the karahi in Punjab.

Sheheryar: I would advice people to travel without any apprehensions and be open to accepting hospitality.

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This is

HOW WE

ROLL

By Omair Alavi

Colourful, contemporary and boasting an all-star cast, Parey Hut Love has been making waves since the film went on the floors last year. Directed by Asim Raza and produced by Sheheryar Munawar, who also plays the lead opposite Maya Ali, the romantic comedy additionally features Ahmed Ali Butt, Zara Noor Abbas, Meera, Nadeem Baig, Sonya Jehan and cameos by Mahira Khan and Fawad Khan. Journalist Omair Alavi discovers what happens offcamera when so many big names come together to travel, film and hang out for weeks on end.

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I

Sheheryar Munawar Producer/Actor

t sounds like a difficult, if not impossible, task to take a bunch of popular actors to a distinct location for a film shoot and return without tales of infighting, tantrums and disharmony. However, Asim Raza’s Parey Hut Love has made the impossible possible by bringing together a cast that loved working alongside each other as they filmed across some of the most picturesque places in the world – historically rich Istanbul, scenic Muzaffarabad, and culturally exquisite Bahawalpur. DESTINATIONS recently caught up with the lead actors and director of the film to talk about their experiences of working on the upcoming rom-com.

Asim Raza Director

Asim Raza chose to travel abroad for what would be his second feature film after Ho Mann Jahaan. “We shot in different places because the storyline demanded that.

One stint of the film demanded Europe so we went to Istanbul, there were some scenes to be shot in Azad Kashmir so we went to Muzaffarabad and since we wanted to show to the world that Pakistan has a gem within its borders, we chose to go to Bahawalpur. I must say that what Jaipur is to India, Bahawalpur is to Pakistan and it has no match if you are looking for beautiful palaces and historical buildings,” Asim explains when asked the reason behind the globe-trotting.

Not many know that Asim is also a renowned architect, so working in Istanbul and Bahawalpur must have been a big deal for him. “Yes, it definitely was!” The acclaimed director says as he talks about the two places with happiness visible in his eyes. “Architecture is my first love and comes naturally to me. Everywhere we went, we knew about that place’s importance, relevance and how we would be able to shoot it in a film. I have always used architecture in more than one way in my films and trust me, architecturally, it is going to be a visual treat for the audience. I am very hopeful that the Turkey we have captured is going to be different from what they have seen in other films.”

He also mentions that it was a lot of fun working with the star cast. “The best part about my cast was that they are all understanding actors who know the importance of building the industry rather than getting into ego issues. There were no reservations as they all were very supportive and that helped me a lot as a director and Sheheryar Munawar as a producer. He was the host of the entire trip and the cast had a great time. We were lucky enough to work with veteran actor Nadeem Baig who also loved the place where we were shooting the film.”

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This may be his first feature film shot abroad, but Sheheryar Munawar has worked as a producer and actor for various ad films that have been filmed outside Pakistan.

He recalls the Turkey experience fondly, mainly because of a wonderful local production team who handled the extravagant sequences without breaking a sweat. “The Turkish crew really pulled through with resilience and working hard was something we shared; it acted as a common denominator between the film crews of both the countries. We had to shoot at multiple locations, sometimes with 300 and 400 extras and thankfully we managed to get the job done seamlessly.”

He adds that travelling with a huge team was great fun because they gelled as a family. “We all stayed at the same hotel; some of us would work out after the day’s shoot wrapped up and later make plans for dinner. It was just like one big family on a 15-20 day trip to some destination.”

The actor-turned-producer was quite surprised at the amazing response of the locals in Muzaffarabad and Bahawalpur. “The people of Muzaffarabad were not only hospitable, they seemed very happy generally in life. Every day, they somehow knew where we would be filming and would welcome us. Due to their presence on the set, the outdoor shoot was like working on stage with a live audience in front of us, and that was a different experience. Similarly, in Bahawalpur, people from surrounding towns would drop by the location and I was surprised to know of the huge fan base in the region. It was an event for them and we were lucky to have such patient and well-behaved people around us as they waited till early morning to take selfies with us without disturbing us during the shoot.”

He nominates Ahmad Ali Butt and Maya Ali as the two cast members with whom he would like to hang out again, given the chance. “Butt sahab has amazing energy and is a wonderful person to be with. I would love to work with him in the future and the same goes for Maya Ali with whom I was also working for the first time. We shared a respectful relationship and I am sure people will appreciate our onscreen chemistry.”

Sheheryar proved to be a support for his co-star off-screen as well; he recalls one incident particularly well. “While shooting at the Muzaffarabad Fort, Maya and I sat on a ledge that was over 500 feet above the ground and I didn’t realize she was afraid of heights.

Throughout the scene I had to keep reassuring her that we wouldn’t fall off, because every time she looked down she would forget her lines in panic! She sat there for four hours and got the scene done. I had newfound respect for her that day.” As for choosing one location out of the three as his favourite, he has the perfect answer: “Istanbul for the food, Muzaffarabad for the scenery and Bahawalpur for the tea.”

AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

Maya Ali Actor

Following her fantastic big screen debut in Teefa in Trouble, Maya Ali is arguably one of the most recognizable faces in Pakistan today. Did she get mobbed during the film’s shooting spell, I ask her? “I wouldn’t say that I got mobbed or that it was an issue, as I love my fans and whenever someone approaches me for a picture, I make sure to oblige. Istanbul was relatively easy; but yes I did get recognized in Muzaffarabad and Bahawalpur and I enjoyed the time I got to spend with my fans.”

When asked to share the most interesting moment from the set, she recalls, “You’d be surprised to know that Sheheryar’s scared of birds! There was this one scene in which a pigeon had to fly between us and even though he didn’t make his fear obvious, I could see it on his face… to top it all, it took 10/15 retakes to get it right. Regardless of his phobia, he didn’t make his fear apparent, so you can imagine what a brilliant actor he must be!”

What makes the film extra special for her is that it gave her the chance to discover Bahawalpur and Muzaffarabad as two of Pakistan’s most fabulous destinations. “There is nothing better than my own country, there is so much beauty here,” she sums it up.

Ahmad Ali Butt Actor

For Ahmad Ali Butt, both Istanbul and Bahawalpur were familiar territories as he was part of the blockbusters Punjab Nahi Jaungi and Jawani Phir Nahi Ani 2 that were shot in Bahawalpur and Istanbul, respectively. However, this was his first film away from the Six Sigma Team, and that added a little pressure on him as he admits to going the extra mile to impress Asim Raza. “Since Asim is such a big name in the industry, I tried to create a good impression. It was amazing to find him to be a very down-to-earth director and Sherry an amazing producer; so for me, it was very easy to get settled and comfortable with them.”

With rain playing havoc in Istanbul and not much was required out him in terms of shooting in Muzaffarabad, the actor says that he had the best time in Bahawalpur where they shot at night and slept during the day. “It was like Game of Thrones’ Battle of Winterfell if you ask me –we shot at night and only got free early in the morning. Our clocks were running backward, as we went to the locations in the evenings and worked till the sun told us to leave and this continued for 11 days. It was a great experience considering I got to shoot a song with Sonya Jehan and share the screen with Mahira Khan, with whom I had never worked before despite knowing her for a long time.” The actors fondly recalls Bahawalpur as, “an extremely peaceful, beautiful and historically and culturally rich town.”

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HUNZA What You Need To Know,

Before You Go Nestled in the shadow of three great mountain ranges, the Himalayas, Hindukush and Karakoram, the valley of Hunza is known for its spectacular views, unforgettable outdoor experiences and the warm hospitality of its people. This summer, head north to experience the perennial beauty of this enchanted land, but before you go, read on to get the lowdown on the how, what, where and when of Hunza.

Photography: Obaid-ul-Mohsin

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Getting There

By Air The quickest way to reach Hunza is to take a flight from Islamabad to Gilgit. From Gilgit airport, you can reach Hunza by car in about 2 hours.

By Road Alternately, you can make a road trip out of it, especially if you’re travelling as a large group, and drive from Islamabad to Hunza on the KKH, a journey of over 14 hours.

Photo: Uzair Aziz

TOUR PROVIDERS

DISTANCE FROM ISLAMABAD

Khaplu Fort Chaqchan Mosque Manthokha Waterfall Kunjerab Pass Shigar Valley Sust Border Shigar Fort Satpara Lake Passu Glacier Gojal Valley Rush Lake Rakaposhi Viewpoint Hussaini Hanging Bridge Hoper Glacier Eagle Nest Hunza Altit Fort Nagar Baltit fort Karimabad Village Ganish Aliabad Juglote Tunnel Sultanabad Attabad Lake Deosai planes Giglit Airport Naltar Lake

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756km 754km 720km 720km 693km 692km 686km 665km 656km 644km 637km 634km 632km 625km 619km 615km 615km 613km 612km 612km 607km 479km 523km 582km 593km 525km 575km

17h 11m 17h 19m 16h 24m 16h 22m 15h 53m 15h 51m 15h 36m 15h 17m 15h 6m 14h 58m 14h 30m 13h 5m 14h 13m 14h 10m 14h 11m 14h 6m 13h 45m 14h 13h 56m 13h 44m 13h 34m 11h 19m 11h 59m 14h 37m 14h 10m 12h 8m 13h 13m

TACTACK One of the most credible tour providers in the country, TACTACK offers bespoke tours up north that cater to all types of holidays – educational, recreational or corporate. www.tactack.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Lots of sunscreen, because the sun gets pretty strong during the day.

Adventure Travel Pakistan Pakistan’s leading travel and tours company, with a wealth of experience in organizing trips. www.adventuretravelpakistan.com Baydaar Travels This Islamabad-based travel company is run by young, energetic organizers who make sure that you get the most out of your time.

Great for solo travellers as well as large groups. www.baydaartravels.com/ Northern Tours Operated by a Hunza native, you can expect the best local perspective when booking with Northern Tours. www.facebook.com/northerntourpk/

Music and books, because you want to take a break from technology to soak in your beautiful surroundings.

Cover-ups and wraps because the weather can get unpredictable, especially if you are travelling up to Khunjerab Pass where temperatures drop drastically.

Packaged food items such as biscuits, cereal, ready-to-cook noodles etc to keep handy, especially if travelling with kids.

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STAY AT In Karimabad

Hunza Serena Inn

In Gulmit

LUXURY

Zero Point, Hunza, Karimabad Phone: (058134) 57660 Bright, richly patterned fabrics and simple décor share the space with elegant, traditional furnishings, which enfold guests in the spirit of a colonial-era Kashmiri home. Guests may choose from among 17 standard rooms, two deluxe rooms and seven luxury tents, all of which are appointed with modern amenities, including free wireless Internet, flat-screen TVs with cable and satellite programming and luxurious bathrooms. The luxury tents also feature a private veranda overlooking the Ganesh village, Nagar valley, Rakaposhi and Diran Mountains.

Hunza Embassy Hotel

MID-RANGE

Karimabad, Gilgit-Baltistan 15700 Phone: (058134) 57001 Hotel Hunza Embassy, nestled in an amphitheater of peaks in the heart of Hunza, is known for its decent service, well-quipped rooms and central location.

Eagles Nest Hotel

MID-RANGE

Hunza Chowk, Hunza, Gilgit Phone: (058134) 57583 Whether you choose to stay at this iconic Hunza establishment or not, a visit to the region won’t be complete without soaking in panoramic views of the Rakaposhi and other surrounding peaks from the hotel’s well-placed viewpoint area. The rooms have seen better days, but still remain in popular demand.

Old Hunza Inn

BACKPACKERS

Zero Point, Hunza Pakistan Phone: 0312 9755467 One of the oldest hotels in the area, it is more of a hostel with great views of the Rakaposhi from all rooms. It is located in a quiet area and staff will organize tours to meet any budget.

Gulmit Continental Hotel

MID-RANGE

Village Gulmit Gojal, Hunza Phone: 0343 5451298 A quaint family-run hotel in Gulmit, which will give you the opportunity to explore the picturesque village itself. The accommodating staff will ensure all your needs are met.

Gulmit Tourist Inn

MID-RANGE

Gulmit Gojal Hunza, Gulmit Phone: 0346 0030255 Highly recommended local hotel in Gulmit, renowned for the hospitality of its staff, the mesmerizing views from its rooms and the delicious local food.

DESTINATIONS RECOMMENDS

Book the best homes, vacation rentals and experiences in GilgitBaltistan via www.chkar.com, a website that is run by a local couple and one that offers a unique local perspective of the area.

View of the sunrise from Eagle’s Nest

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Eat At

Khan Café on the lane leading to Altit Fort for the best mamtos

See/Experience Attabad Lake Created in 2010 as a result of the Attabad Disaster, the lake is renowned for its crystal clear blue waters. Enjoy a boat ride with spectacular views all around as well as water sports.

Altit Fort Originally home to the hereditary rulers of the Hunza state who carried the title Mir, Altit Fort and in particular the Shikari tower is around 1100 years old, which makes it the oldest monument in the Gilgit-Baltistan.

@abdulwaahab

The roadside dhabas in Thole for chapsuro

Ganesh Village It is the oldest and first settlement on the ancient Silk Road in the Hunza Valley, and is the site of various ancient watchtowers, traditional mosques, religious centers, and a reservoir.

Hunza Food Pavilion on the street leading to Baltit Fort for chammus Karimabad Take a day hike around Karimabad along the water channel paths. The two paths offer different, but equally mesmerizing, views of the valley. Don’t forget to visit Karimabad Bazaar to get your hands on some local handicrafts as well as indigenous specialities such as dried fruit and herbs as well as oils of apricot and walnut etc.

Hidden Paradise Café in Karimabad Bazaar for burututz berikutz

@zbhutta

Café de Hunza, Karimabad for the popular walnut cake and rosti Glacier Breeze Restaurant in Passu for its apricot cake 72

Baltit Fort Once the former seat of the Hunza kingdom, Baltit Fort is now one of the Hunza Valley’s most iconic sights.

Gulmit Gulmit is the gateway of the Upper Hunza Valley and an ideal stopover for visiting the Khunjerab Pass. The picturesque, centuries-old historic town is surrounded by peaks and glaciers and has its own museum.

Hussaini Bridge Up the adventure ante of your vacation and take a walk along the rickety wooden suspension bridge of Hussaini.

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By Wali Akhter With a variety of hiking trails to suit everyone, the mountain resort of Nathiagali is a favoured destination for adventure seekers and nature enthusiasts. The picturesque trails, however, can be treacherous unless undertaken at the right time of the year, as one member of Team Destinations, Wali Akhter, has learnt during his numerous attempts to complete the Miranjani trek. Read on as he shares the how, why and when of hiking in Nathiagali, as well as the lessons learnt to make sure you do it right.

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KHYBER PAKHTUNKHWA HOW TO GET THERE

It takes 2.5 hours from Islamabad, and 7 hours from Lahore to reach Nathiagali. There is clear signage at the start of the track and you cannot miss it. Getting to Miranjani top without a guide is easy. But from there on, the track cannot be attempted without a guide.

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DAGRI BUNGALOW

have a very adventurous group of friends; some might even call us foolhardy. Fear is something that is unknown to us, which is why we only need the seed of a wild idea to plan a new escapade. Our latest adventure involved attempting the MiranjaniBeringali trail in Nathiagali, one of the longest and most scenic trails in the Galiyat area.

Nathiagali is known to adventure junkies across the country, with three hiking trails to suit all needs. The pipeline track is flat and easy, the Mushkpuri track is relatively challenging but not as long as the Miranjani one. It might take you 2 hours to reach the top of the Mushkpuri peak but will take you 2 days to complete the MiranjaniBeringali trail.

This is the story of how, after four tries (three failed, and one successful), we perfected a camping plan for the benefit on anyone looking to go up north to the Galiyat trails this summer.

ATTEMPT #1 (2017)

We had camped on Miranjani, the highest peak in the Galiyat at a height of 9,816 ft, before but never on a moonless night, which is when the best views are visible. My friends Shams and Hassan, and I reached the top in 5 hours from Nathiagali.

After enjoying a beautiful sunset and lighting up a bonfire, we had dinner under the open sky.

The night grew dark and the nearby villages and Abbottabad lit up to create a surreal experience.

We could see the Milky Way merge into the city lights of Abbottabad, a 360-degree experience of a starry night. The next morning, we continued our hike towards Dagri Bangla despite rainfall, but eventually had to turn back as we realized that our food rations were running out.

Lesson learnt:

Bring the right type of tinned, ready-to-eat food, carry a raincoat and travel super light.

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TOWARDS BERIN GALI

MIRANJANI

START

TOWARDS NATHIAGALI

THE TRACK Nathiagali-Miranjani Top It takes roughly 5 hours to reach the top of the Miranjani peak. The viewpoint is not as impressive as Mushkpuri (except on a moonless night when one can see the surrounding areas lit up) but the track itself is very picturesque.

Miranjani-Dagri Bangla This stretch takes 3 hours on a mostly flat track.

Dagri Bangla is the halfway mark of the track, and there is a proper shelter where you can camp. There is also a stream nearby from where you can fill up on water.

Dagri Bangla-Beringali The Dagri Bangla to Beringali stretch is the most scenic part of the track. It is a 7-hour hike to reach Beringali, but as its downhill, it is relatively easy to attempt. From Beringali, you can hire a taxi/jeep to take you back to Nathiagali.

ATTEMPT #2 (2018)

The second time around, we tried the track from the other side (Thandiani). We began hiking one hour before sunset, and after 3 hours of walking, camped by the side of the trail. In the morning it started to rain and visibility was adversely affected. We were de-tracked and lost 2 hours of sunlight. By midday, we had crossed Beringali, but unfortunately we got de-tracked again. Remember I said earlier that we are very adventurous – we don’t believe in getting a guide.

By 6pm, we were on the right track but after sunset it started raining again. After hiking in heavy rain we got de-tracked for the third time. We were in a forest, lost, and the rain had turned into a storm, bringing the visibility down by 50 percent. Luckily, we found a pipe leading towards a small one-man

trail. We followed that and the sound of the azaan from a nearby mosque and eventually came upon an abandoned building. Glad to finally find some shelter, we huddled inside and spent the night there. In the morning, we managed to find our bearing and realized we were on the outskirts of Beringali, which meant we still had to ascend up Dagri Bangla and all the way to Miranjani top. We turned back from there.

Lesson learnt:

Buy a raincoat already. You can’t get lost in the Galiyat if you stick to a path. Never leave a path, even if you are lost. Paths lead to civilisation. Hire a guide. The locals aren’t lying about leopards.

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ATTEMPT #3 (2019)

In October of 2018 we had completed the track for the first time and we felt bold enough to try it again in the summer – without a guide, of course (you should know that by now).

We were a group of 8 people, so obviously we were going to be late. We left from Islamabad in the evening of April 20th and reached the starting point of the track in Nathiagali by 8pm. After mentally preparing everyone that it was going to be a night hike, we started walking around 9pm. Thanks to the moon, we didn’t need torch lights. Bathed in moonlight, the track looked really pretty – we were off to a great start! By 12am, we decided to set up camp at the only campsite before the top, which is midway to Miranjani.

Morale was high in the morning, plus there was less carry-on weight since we’d used up some supplies for dinner and breakfast. By 3pm, we reached the top of Miranjani, only to discover that the entire way forward was completely covered in snow.

A long debate ensued amongst the group members, by the end of which 4 people decided to turn back while Lala, Uswa, Shams and I (the pros) marched on. It was turning dark, but there was no stopping us. We were the first ones to hike the Dagri Bangla track this season and it was obvious why – walking over the snow-covered path was extremely tough.

We abandoned our plan to keep moving and camped by the side of the track for the night.

In the morning we turned back.

My intention had been to hike the track in spring and take photos to show how beautiful the place was. But spring comes to the Galiyat in June whereas we had gone up in April. Conclusion: We are not pros.

Top: Bilal, Saqib and Zona Mid: Babrek Bottom: Uswa, Shams, Ahsan and Wali

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The PERFECT Plan The window for this hike is between June and October. Do it in June when it’s spring, before the monsoons arrive or its gets too cold to camp on Miranjani top.

Start from Nathiagali instead of Thandiani, as it’s mostly downhill this way.

Camp on Miranjani top the first day, stay at Dagri on the second and then hike all the way down to Beringali on the third.

Skip the Beringali to Thandiani leg of the track, it’s not that interesting.

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Initially, invest in a good tent and walking shoes, and if you are serious about hiking, investing in equipment like sleeping bags and cooking utensils etc is a good idea.

Carry ready-made food (preferably tinned).

Don’t trust the forecast; it rains almost every day here, which is why it is imperative to bring a raincoat.

The Dagri Bangla to Beringali part can’t be done without a guide.

The rest is easy.

Deodorants don’t work, not even sports deodorants. Carry not more than one change of clothes.

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HRS

An insider’s Guide to

Nathiagali

By Sidrah Haque

By the foothills of the Himalayas, amongst many other charming valleys and villages, lies the scenic hamlet of Nathiagali. Boasting picturesque views, magnificent panoramas and deep forests of oak, cedar and pine, it’s rightfully one of the most popular mountain resorts in Pakistan. Many have been, many others want to go, and many many others want to keep going back. Travel enthusiast Sidrah Haque is a frequent visitor as she shares an insider’s guide on how to get there, where to stay, what to do and what you could eat there. So pack your bags for one last trip this year, before it gets too cold to visit!

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M

y love affair with Nathiagali began the moment I first heard the deafening rattle of the cicadas in the summer of 2014.

The fat summer beetle can be found on nearly every tree in the area delivering a chorus that is now synonymous with a trip to the Galiyat – the strip of land in between Abbottabad and Murree where the country’s most popular resort towns lie.

But if you ask me, there is no place in the Galiyat quite like Nathiagali: great for a day trip, a weekend getaway, or spending your entire summer vacations like the residents. Here’s your all-you-need-to-know guide on Nathiagali.

How To Get There You can either take the route through Abbottabad, cut shorter by the newly-constructed Hazara Motorway. But that’ll mean battling the bumperto-bumper Abbottabadi city traffic on its singular main road, and it would take a little over an hour’s car ride exiting the city limits to reach Nathiagali.

The more scenic and less stressful route is via Murree Expressway, passing through Murree and driving a further hour and twenty minutes to reach Nathiagali.

The roads are winding and there are sharp turns city drivers aren’t accustomed to, so it is advised to reach during daylight hours, whichever route you choose.

Where to stay Resting high above the residential homes, and the main Nathia bazaar, zigzag your way to Summer Retreat and/or Greens Retreat; the customary choice of visitors to Nathiagali. The Retreat Hotel chain has the advantage of constantly being maintained, and offering a more secluded taste of Nathiagali.

Alpine Hotel is the younger brother on the Retreats block, and the more luxurious option. There’s more attention paid to details and better fittings and furnishings, and in turn, a heftier price tag.

Hotel Elites is a popular option for its price, but is run down by general standards. The place feels like one big Hogwarts, with so many guests staying under one roof, and can get ghastly noisy during peak season, but remains friendly on the pocket.

If you want to get away far from the maddening crowd, Gali’s End is an upmarket resort that lends a homely touch. It has hosted artist retreats, gives a private den-like feel, and is perfect for larger parties.

Bonus: Sweet Tooth Mukshpuri is just a five-minute drive from the main Nathiagali Bazaar, and has three freshly furnished rooms for lodging atop the café. The rooms and furnishings are brand spanking new and rates are still introductory.

Miranjani Hiking Trail Governor’s House Na

thiagali

What to do

Hotel

Rates

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St. Matthews Church

Summer Retreat

Vista Wing Rs 16,000 plus tax (March to September) Vista Wing Rs 10,000 plus tax (rest of the months)

Greens Retreat

Rs. 12,500 plus taxes (March to September) Rs. 7,000 plus taxes (rest of the months)

Alpine Hotel

Rates start at Rs. 18,000 plus tax in peak season

Hotel Elites

Rates start at Rs. 7,500 plus tax for a standard room

Galis End

Rates start at Rs. 15,000 for a one-bedroom apartment

Take the Mukshpuri hiking trail and visit the Lalazar Wildlife Park at the end of the nearly one-hour track. The park features a small handful of animals accessed by a rickety path.

The Miranjani trail is for advanced hikers, but is worth it for the sights, sounds and bragging rights.

Drive down to Dungagali and take the Pipeline Walk, a well-constructed 3.5 kilometre trail that ends at Ayubia. Don’t miss the breathtaking views and historical markers as you walk over the pipeline that supplies Murree its entire water.

The Nathiagali Bazaar is always bustling with activity till the wee hours of the night. Look hard and put your bargaining foot forward to buy premium quality shawls and hand-knotted carpets. Or just trinkets if you’re on a budget.

Visit the St. Matthews Church, a remnant from the days of the British, and don’t forget to donate what you can.

Walk the road from the church to the Governor House and enjoy the scenic mountains landscaping your view.

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Karnak House

Head over to Abshaar for a piping hot desi chicken karahi over the roaring stream.

Take the mini-trail behind Karnak House and walk amongst the sky-hugging pines. You can catch a peek of the lawns of the Governor House in between the trees.

Visit the nearby Kalabagh base for a short hike through its monkey-lined trails, or for ziplining and archery atop the lush Green Spot.

End your visit there with piping hot coffee and French fries.

However you go about it, it’s best to take in Nathiagali at a slow pace

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Take a leisurely stroll from Club Road onwards and have fun checking out the quirky homes and the architecture.

There are two parks with slides and rides for the children, but choose an earlier hour to avoid the rush.

However you go about it, it’s best to take in Nathiagali at a slow pace. The beauty of the small town lies in the familiarity of the homes and the easy-to-remember trails. So much so that you can look past what’s around you to actually soak in the cries of the ravens, the scurrying of the insects and the sounds of the songbirds.

What to Eat There are few things as classic as Taj Hotel’s Pathakha Chicken. Served with fried chilli flakes, maash daal, hot naans (baked dough) and raita (yogurt dip) on the side, your visit just isn’t complete without it. Say hello to the staff who have been running the joint for decades and never get a meal wrong.

The main bazaar offers vendors who dole out piping hot pakoras (fritters), samosas (a savory snack with vegetarian or non-vegetarian fillings served fried), jalebis (coils of batter fried and steeped in sugar syrup) and coffee or ice-cream depending on the season. Nothing is worth writing home about, but all are a must-have.

A visit to Greens Retreat and outdoor coffee on the patio is a visitor’s tradition.

The main bazaar has a number of restaurants, but don’t expect anything near the standards back home: play it safe with pizza, soup or barbecued meats.

Make a dessert run to Sweet Tooth just outside the Nathiagali Bazaar for the young crowd and warm skillet brownies.

Best time to visit The months between April and October are the best time to visit Nathiagali. The daytime weather is pleasant and you might require just a light shawl, while the nights are considerably cold, requiring heavy-duty blankets and heaters. However, contrary to popular opinion, long weekends and Eid holidays are the worst times to visit: travellers have been known to be stuck in Abbottabad’s traffic for hours in the Eid madness, there are throngs of day visitors heading to the Galiyat or further north, followed

The main bazaar offers vendors who dole out piping hot pakoras, samosas, jalebis and coffee or icecream depending on the season. Nothing is worth writing home about, but all are a must-have. by littering and loud music till the wee hours of the night. Choose an insignificant weekend to answer the call of the mountains, and get the most out of your trip!

And when you do visit, be a caring guest. Whether it’s respecting the wares of Mother Nature, or tipping the locals well who have to find work out of town in the winters. Or whether it’s picking up litter or listening with some semblance of belief when told the local folklore of phantom cheetahs. Or whether it’s letting the monkeys move about at their pace or just giving someone else their way. This happy town deserves the very happiest of visitors!

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PUNJAB

BAISAKHI Celebrating the

Colours of Punjab Photography: Mobeen Ansari

Every year in April, thousands of Sikh devotees congregate within the city of Hasanabdal, 40km northwest of Islamabad, home to one of the oldest and holiest Sikh shrines in the region, Gurdwara Panja Sahib, on the occasion of Baisakhi. Prayers and festivities, rituals and colours mark the festival where pilgrims and devotees throng the shrine to herald the birth of the Sikh faith and the start of the Punjabi New Year. This year, acclaimed travel photographer Mobeen Ansari travelled to the gurdwara exclusively on assignment for DESTINATIONS to capture the essence of the festive, yet sacred, Baisakhi mela.

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PUNJAB How would you describe the atmosphere at the gurdwara (shrine) during Baisakhi?

The atmosphere was ethereal and peaceful. One would think that with over 2,200 pilgrims from all over the world, it would be chaotic, but it was very tranquil. It was a surreal sight, with a sea of multi-coloured turbans, to feel the energy of prayers being recited from every pilgrim. In every nook and cranny of the gurdwara, there were pilgrims camped out. There was volunteer work everywhere as well. Inside the gurdwara, where the Granth Sahib (the holy book of Sikh scriptures) is kept, there was a nonstop flow of pilgrims and it was so peaceful, that some were even sleeping there. It was the quietest place I had been to.

What are some of the rituals associated with the festival that you got to witness?

There were many rituals and festivities of Sikhism involved, such as the recitation of the scripture and bathing in the holy water of the shrine. But what really caught my eye was the Panj Pyare (Beloved Five), leading a procession around the temple. The other, which you will always see in every gurdwara, is seva (selfless service). This involved langar (free food), and volunteers working around the clock to keep the temple clean.

You are known for your work photographing minorities, which culminated in the publication of your book White in the Flag. Yet would you say that covering Baisakhi was a unique experience for you?

I think this was a unique experience for me for many reasons. One is that the only Sikh festival I had been able to attend and photograph before this was Guru Nanak’s birthday, which is held in Gurdwara Janam Asthaan in Nankana Sahib.

While that gurdwara is sacred for being Guru Nanak’s birthplace, it is vast, and celebrations and pilgrims are spread out, inside and outside.

What is beautiful about Gurdwara Panja Sahib is that it is very centric with residential buildings circling it, so you have a full view from the top, and you can actually see the volume of people.

Moreover, the gurdwara is built on top of a pond, 98

which shows the pilgrims’ special relationship with water. There’s the history of Guru Nanak’s handprint imprinted on a rock at the shrine as well. Everything from pilgrims’ movement to the functions and volunteer work runs like clockwork in harmony.

Did you get to interact with the visiting pilgrims?

How did they feel about being in Pakistan?

I got to interact with a few, but my interaction was mostly limited to capturing them, and immersing myself in peace with them. Each soul was truly happy and content to be there, and said that they felt safe, and well cared for. They showed appreciation for the itinerary arranged for the Sikh yatris, to take them to gurdwaras across Punjab, on a schedule revolving around this festival. Many had travelled far and wide to come to Baisakhi, so this was a spiritual and an emotional experience for many.

What was the most moving aspect of the festival for you personally?

There was an elderly couple who had come from Amritsar. The man had difficulty walking, and he wished to touch the handprint of Guru Nanak.

To reach there, you have to walk down a marble staircase which is partially underwater, so it is very slippery.

There were Rescue 1122 officers there who saw him, took their shoes off, and carried him to the rock (where the handprint is), and waited while he prayed, then brought him back to higher ground once he was done. His wife was so appreciative that she told the officers that they are like sons to them. I was moved to tears.

How involved was the local community in the event?

As it is, the caretakers of the gurdwara are Muslims. Due to the sheer number of pilgrims, obviously there were security forces deployed to ensure protection of the pilgrims. They were very respectful, and when an officer’s shift would end, he would come inside the gurdwara, take his shoes off and pay his respects, or join in the festivities. There was an absolute sense of religious harmony.

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KThe Corridor

ARTARPUR:

of hope

By Yusra Askari

With over 300 plus gurdwaras dotted across the length and the breadth of its terrain, Pakistan has long been the bastion of the Sikh faith. One of its most revered sites, Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur Sahib in the village of Kartarpur, is now in the spotlight after a groundbreaking ceremony for a pilgrim corridor leading from here to Dera Baba Nanak Sahib in Gurdusapur, India will enable devotees from the Indian side to pay their respects unhindered and visa free. Journalist Yusra Askari narrates the significance of the Kartarpur Corridor and all other details related to this ambitious project.

Special thanks: Sardar Ramesh Singh Arora

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CHINA

PUNJAB

ISLAMABAD

JAMMU & KASHMIR

KARTARPUR NANKANA SAHIB

LAHORE

FAISALABAD

QUETTA MULTAN

Around 1522 AD, at the age of 52, it was in Kartarpur that the first Guru of Sikhism, Guru Nanak Dev Ji chose to conclude his missionary travels across the world. And it was also here that he settled and assembled the first Sikh commune of Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur Sahib and spent the last 18 years of his life preaching the message of God. Guru Nanak’s message was one of love, tolerance, harmony and humanity, and his followers hail to perform his last rites. guru nanak’s samadhi sahib within the gurdwara, and the mazar sahib or mausoleum in the courtyard, serve as a reminder of that very discord.

The Nanak Naam Lewa, as they are called, wanted to as per tradition cremate his remains, while his Muslim followers wanted a burial. It was suggested, that even in absentia, the Guru should be the one to decide.

It is said that upon raising the shroud under which the Guru’s body lay at rest – only the flowers placed by his followers were found. The Sikhs and Hindus cremated one half, whereas the Muslims buried the other.

Despite the Guru’s last ditch efforts to prevent dispute, centuries later, over 70 years after the partition of the sub-continent, most often tense if not volatile conditions along the border, made the

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No more long distance darshan required by our friends across the border, as the under-construction 4.5 kilometer-long corridor will connect the revered Sikh shrines of Dera Baba Nanak Sahib in Gurdusapur, India and Gurudwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur Sahib in Kartarpur, Pakistan. The muchanticipated project, will also make possible the impossible, and allow for devotees from across to make the pilgrimage to the final resting place of Guru Nanank, visa-free.

Proposed in 1999 by then prime-ministers Atal Bihari Vajpayee and Mian Muhammad Nawaz Sharif, the project is now due to be completed in time for Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s 550th birth anniversary on the 29th of November of this year.

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ust 4.7 kilometers short of the border with India, located on the right bank of the glorious Ravi, the small village of Kartarpur in Punjab’s Narowal District is among the Sikh community’s most revered sites globally.

At the swearing in ceremony of PM Imran Khan in August 2018, a commitment by COAS General Qamar Javed Bajwa to cricketer turned politician Navjot Singh Sidhu to facilitate the long-planned opening of the Kartarpur Corridor, set the tone for its inaugural last November.

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Even though it is a mere stone’s throw away from the Indian border, until a few weeks ago, Sikh pilgrims from the Indian side were only able to pay their respects from atop a 3.5 metre-high concrete darshan sthal or vantage point constructed 11 years ago, via binoculars provided by India’s Border Security Force. However, last August, one hug changed everything!

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situation such that pilgrims from India have found it difficult to pay their respects at the gurudwara in person.

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With over 300 plus gurdwaras dotted across the length and the breadth of its terrain, Pakistan has long been the bastion of the Sikh faith. For years, the country has seen a steady footfall of yatris or pilgirms from across the globe, including India. But the numbers of devotees expected to make their way to Pakistan post the opening of the corridor are unmatched. The boost in religious tourism will not only serve well Pakistan’s soft image, internationally, but will also make for increased opportunities.

Work on the project is underway on a war footing and all concerned authorities are working overtime to have it completed as per schedule.

As end of the year nears, the drashan sthal across the border too has been demolished to make way for planned construction works.

This means pilgrims in India will no longer be able to pay their respects to one of the holiest sites in Sikh religion until the corridor between becomes operational. May the dreams of millions, that have taken two decades in the making, come true.

Photo credit: AFP

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THE FASHION FIX

A Royal

Odyssey

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THE FASHION FIX

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THE FASHION FIX

Styling, Concept & Photography: Khawar Riaz Designer: Naushemian by Nauman Arfeen Jewellery: Noor Jehan Jewels

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Unveiling

BALOCHISTAN

By Madeeha Syed Photography: Amna Zuberi

Journalist and travel enthusiast Madeeha Syed travels to what is generally considered the “Wild West” of Pakistan.

As she digs her heels deeper into the unknown terrain, she delights in discovering quaint bazaars, authentic handicrafts, local delicacies and heightened sensibilities that make her keenly aware of the untainted, raw beauty of the landscape that surrounds her. In this insightful piece, she shares some great tips for those willing to explore this largely uncharted region.

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hey appear brown and barren, but revisit them at the right time – the golden hours of sunrise or sunset – and the mountains of Balochistan, especially those surrounding the Quetta valley, come to life.

Sunlight dances on the rocks as they change colour from a light brown, dark grey, cream to a deep ember. In the evenings, the sky turns a bright shade of beautiful blue, purple and then finally grey and black as the night takes over.

It’s the kind of beauty that takes you by surprise because it’s where you least expect it – Balochistan.

Far from being as popular as the often-talked about and photographed mountains in Pakistan’s north, Balochistan is an explorer’s paradise. You get the sense that everything is new and a lot is waiting to be discovered.

Quetta is the kind of city that reveals itself to you when you step out of your comfort zone and walk about its neighbourhoods and have conversations with the locals. It’s still deeply traditional, so I would recommend dressing conservatively. The people themselves are quite friendly and curious about any visitors from outside the province.

You’ll find perfectly preserved and functional British-era buildings in quite a few places which lend the city a quaintness missing from most others in the country. There’s the occasional mall or two, but people still prefer to go to the main markets

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such as the Mezan Chowk Market or Prince Road Market that have been around for a very long time.

How to get there Flights leave from Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad once or twice a week. Other than PIA, Serene Air also operates flights to the city. There are a variety of bus networks that connect Quetta to the rest of the country as well, if you fancy travelling slowly. And for those who are feeling even more adventurous: take the train. The journey, especially the last half, is gorgeous as you’re treated to sights of wild, untouched mountains as the tracks lead you from under British-era tunnels in a network established around a century ago. You’ll arrive at the station, tired and dusty, but it’s worth experiencing at least once.

Where to stay For those that don’t have a problem burning a hole through their wallets, there is always the Serena which is probably the only ‘finer’ establishment in the city. Then there are moderately priced guest houses which offer large clean rooms and a basic breakfast. We stayed at the Gardenia Hotel close to the airport. My accommodations came with two living rooms and a fluffy cat who had made its home outside my window.

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What to buy Gorgeous hand-woven carpets and shawls depicting impeccable craftsmanship and traditional designs. There’s also the jewellery – some of which is handmade from precious stones from Quetta (such as emeralds, red coral, lapiz and turquoise) and Iran.

And finally, no trip to Quetta is complete without buying nuts and dried fruit. The prices might make your eyes water and burn a hole through your wallet, but they’re still considerably cheaper than what you’ll find in Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad.

Ask the shopkeepers for samples and they’ll teach you how to tell older quality nuts and dried fruit from the fresher ones. And if you’re lucky, you might end up with a mixed goody bag as a gift to munch on for the rest of the trip.

What to eat One of my favourite places is the Hazaradominated neighbourhood of Mari Abad. After paying our respects to those who lost their lives in various targeted terrorist incidents in the famous martyrs’ graveyard we discovered that Maria Abad is also home to a uniquely Hazara cuisine.

We started off with individual servings of aash at the Punjtan Restaurant. It’s quite simple. It’s made up of thick boiled watery noodles which are later paired with red beans, white cholay (garbanzo beans), spinach and minced meat. “The topping is what we call ‘qurut’ in our language,” says our chef Abdul Qudoos. “It’s dried yogurt.” Abdul Qudoos is not his real name. When he’s not making aash in his family restaurant in Quetta, he’s in in Lahore where he’s currently going to art school.

Close to the Punjtan Restaurant is an even smaller establishment – you’d easily miss the nook-in-the-wall seating area that’s hidden behind the little stall kitchen up front.

Their area of specialty? Mantu, the Hazara version of dumplings. Anyone who knows me knows I am a dumpling fiend and I will travel the world looking for them.

It’s like the dumpling version of aash. Instead of noodles, we have spinach stuffed inside the dumplings which are topped with minced meat, red beans and dried yogurt. You get the slight oiliness of the moderately-spicy meat married to 118

the tanginess of the yogurt tempered by the pasta, beans and spinach. This makes it an interestingtasting and very healthy meal.

And finally, my favourite part of going on a little food tour of Quetta: shiryakh. It’s traditional, handmade ice cream but without the guilt – it’s actually quite healthy to have! We went to an establishment simply titled Juice Point.

Right outside, you’ll find the ice cream chef, Nowroze Ali hard at work constantly churning fresh shiryakh in a long cylindrical steel container which is nestled in the middle of crushed ice cream. The constant churning, which looks like quite a hard job, slowly freezes and thickens the ice cream.

Once it’s ready, it’s either stored in the freezer or scooped out in a bowl for waiting customers. It’s topped with a bit of creamy milk and some Rooh Afza (sweet red sherbet) or chocolate — whatever your preference. I preferred having it plain. It’s like having gola ganda but a very light, fluffy, creamy version of it. The flavour we were served was gulabi or rose, made by incorporating rosewater with a slight ilaichi (cardamom) aroma. Instead of heavy and somewhat guilty, having shiryakh leaves you feeling quite refreshed.

Nowroze is 40-something years old and brought the recipe and technique of shiryakh from Kabul, Afghanistan where he migrated from some 20-25 odd years ago. He tells me the main ingrediants are milk, some sugar, powder, and some dried milk. “Iss ko milaye ga aur thora khwari bhi hoga iss pe,” he says. “Phir baraf add karay ga aur zoar lagaye ga.” [You mix the ingredients, knead them together, add ice and then use your strength to churn the mix.]

He assures me having shiryakh won’t make me fat.

When in season, they add fresh fruit flavours such as strawberry, mango and sometimes, even chocolate.

This is something I definitely recommend having after doing the epic trek up the mountains at the Mari Abad side to get a breath-taking view of the city below. Best time to go: right before sunset so you make it in time to watch the city glow under the sun’s golden rays and watch it come to twinkling life after the sun goes down.

Pro tip: Do take lots of water and a flashlight for the way back.

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Step outside the city into paradise: There’s a whole world waiting to be explored outside Quetta. We headed deep into the rocky mountains of Bolan. It’s a drive that spans several hours and goes over paved road, dirt and stone pathways over dried river beds. The rocks keep changing face and they might not be as massive as in the north, but they are magnificent! In a lot of ways driving through this terrain reminded me very much of going between different countries in the Balkans – the scenery had kept me captivated throughout the journey and it was the same here.

You might come across a rare oasis – tall date palm trees growing in a group in the middle of nowhere.

The stark difference in total barrenness and growing life is almost poetic. By the time you reach a certain distance up in the mountains, you’re close to your destination.

There’s a shrine that is located next to the Pir Ghaib Falls that visitors have to pass through. The caretakers have pitched a little tent for them in the shrine themselves.

Another quick trip to make in Quetta: To see the copies of the Quran in Jabal-e-Noor, a location in the mountains, near the outskirts of Quetta, which overlooks the city itself. There’s a long winding cave with small rooms on either side. The copies are displayed in glass cases and it’s fascinating to see the various editions and languages, as old as more than a decade ago on display like that. The little rooms are used for prayer, separately by men and women. In some spots you’ll find names of those who want you know they were there, carved on the walls. Flash a light inside some of the darker rooms and you’ll see sacks filled with more copies. The whole trip takes about 20-30 minutes and can be a bit worrying for those with claustrophobia. But it’s worth doing for the history lesson.

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Pir Ghaib, it turned out, is popular with the locals.

The ‘waterfall’ part of it is an underground stream bursting into the first of three major pools, the last of which is on the edge of the mountain with a breath-taking view below. We saw small groups always congregated around a barbecue pit. Some had even brought their own portable speakers.

You can climb up rocks from pool #2 to pool #1, it’s possible, tricky and fun, but it’s easier to take the side path from the shrine that leads to pool #1.

There was a group that was doing an informal diving competition to see who had the courage to take a very steep plunge into the middle pool. We had one ‘expert’ contender. He jumped off the edge and we could not see him surface. Just as I started to panic, I heard “Woh raha!” [He’s there!] being shouted next to me. Indeed, the contender surfaced from the far side of the pool. Gutsy.

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Coming back for more: To go to the majestic Wali Tangi Waterfall. If you go at the right time, you’ll encounter the most magical apricot, apple and cherry blossom orchards on the way as you head deeper and deeper into the Orak Valley. In spring, they are in full bloom with flowers ranging from a stark white to deep pink dotting the trees across our journey. Some of them were so stunning in their beauty that the orchards would look almost ethereal.

We went during the rains and that resulted in floods and landslides. After passing the orchards, if you manage to make it across the river, your journey begins at a law enforcement authority checkpost a few hours from Quetta deep in the Orak Valley. We drove 10-15 minutes past the check-post and encountered a landslide. The rest of our trek continued via this pathway that led from down and across the length of the river.

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The trek from that point until our next major hurdle took another 20-30 minutes. That walk alone next to the river is breathtakingly beautiful. It reminded me of the treks that go through a valley in Cappadocia, Turkey. There was a peace and calm that came from being one with nature and completely immersing yourself in it.

A part of the next crossroads that would lead us to the waterfall, the path was immersed inside a shallow but fast flowing river. I took the plunge and crossed it – the water was icy cold – only to come back. The rest of the journey would take us three hours one way. It would be past nightfall by the time we’d be making our way back and none of us were prepared for that.

So, I took a moment to take the scenery in and made a little promise to myself and to Balochistan: We’re not done yet. I will be back.

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SINDH

Exploring the Sounds of

Karachi’s Underground

By Mahira Jamshed In the bustling metropolis of over 20 million, there is no shortage of talent in Karachi. Serving as a real-life soundtrack to the denizens of the city, from being played at food eateries to family functions of varying degrees of size and significance, music is woven into the fabric of Pakistan’s most populated city -- which has birthed many popular music artists. However, tucked away in the alternate subterranean is another dimension within this music universe.

Writer Mahira Jamshed goes out in search of the sounds that remain untainted by commercialism and corporate interests, and introduces us to 10 music artists/bands that are making waves in the underground scene.

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vibrant metropolis of over 20 million, there is no shortage of talent in Karachi. From dhabas to dawads, music is woven into the fabric of Pakistan’s most populated city. The city that birthed household names like Nazia and Zohaib, Strings and Shehzad Roy, Karachi has been home to some of Pakistan’s most celebrated musical talent and continues to draws in artists searching for opportunities from across the country. Yet, despite a plethora of hardworking musicians, opportunities for artists to actually “make it” in Karachi are hard to come by.

Accessibility is key From a global perspective, the music scene in Karachi is, in many ways, small, underdeveloped and particularly difficult to access -- especially in comparison to other megacities like New York and London. The act of having to seek out out the underground is an intrinsic part of what makes it underground, but in a city like Karachi, it’s especially difficult to swim deeper than the mainstream.

From ever-growing public safety concerns to increasingly expensive set-ups, sophisticated venues for emerging artists to perform are hard to come by and the creative underground community has long suffered as a result. With a lack of physical venues to nourish the development of artists’ work and audiences taste, accessibility to musical diversity is extremely limited. The lack of sophisticated performance spaces has also influenced the organic evolution of Pakistan’s mainstream music industry, meaning elite industry connections are all the more important and the concept of community building is all the more compromised.

What makes up the mainstream?

Despite a relative lack of funds and available venues, many talented, popular and extraordinary musicians persevere and thrive in Karachi’s underground scene. A snapshot of some of the exceptional talent the city has to offer, here are 10 artists making moves in Karachi to keep an eye - and ear - out for:

In order for the industry to thrive, it needs sustenance. With multinational corporations like Coke, Pepsi, Nescafe and Cornetto privately funding the industry’s largest nationally broadcasted music television series and competitions, the mainstream is largely shaped by by these massive commercial corporations.

Even the likes of iconic Pakistani band, Junoon were reunited largely thanks to sponsorship from Sooper biscuits, “Pakistan’s no. 1 selling biscuit brand.” When audiences don’t have physical venues to seek out new music by local artists, big brands have stepped in with big budgets and considerable access to the masses. The result is a murky distinction between what is mainstream music and what are essentially cleverly packaged commercials. For some emerging artists, competitions like Pepsi’s Battle of the Bands align with their target audience perfectly, but for many others, these massive platforms are constricting, conventional and unapologetically commercial.

Underground musicians are increasingly being recognised on platforms like Pepsi’s Battle of Bands and Coke Studio as, in its eleventh season, the series attempted to address audiences demands for diversity. Yet, opportunities remain limited and at risk of being watered down and repackaged to suit the interests of “the suits.” When it comes down to it, if the commercial big wolves in the industry feel artists aren’t speaking to their brand’s audiences directly, artists are left with very few platforms that are able to support them in sharing their work with the right audience for them.

Dyno Man

Alien Panda Jury

Music producer and co-director of DIY-driven musical initiative, Sine Valley, Daniel Arthur Panjwaneey, who performs under the moniker Alien Panda Jury, is a longstanding artist in Karachi’s underground music community. Some of his recent endeavours include Anaasir - Mandal EP, a collaborative EP between Alien Panda Jury and Nepalese producer, Phatcowlee, as well as Teeth, a track he released this year. After nearly five years, Alien Panda Jury released his latest EP with a Berlin-based label, Noland this March.

Now located in busy New York, the influence of Haamid Rahim’s efforts in Karachi’s underground music scene continue to impact the evolution of the community today. An early pioneer of community building in the digital realm, Haamid, who performs as Dynoman, is the co-founder of Karachi-based electronic music netlabel, Forever South and Founder of the Electronic Music Pak Facebook group.

Today, Haamid is a resident at Brooklyn-based station, Halfmoon Radio; you can listen to his show Ascending w. Dynoman at http://halfmoonbk.com/ index.php/artist/dyno-man/

TollCrane

Talha Asim Wynne aka Tollcrane is a DJ, producer and designer born and bred in Karachi. Alumni of world-touring cross-cultural music initiative Red Bull Music Academy, Talha has, and continues to represent underground Pakistani artists at home and abroad.

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Ali Suhail Biryani Brothers

Biryani Brothers is comprised of two underground musical powerhouses and founders of music festival Lahore Music Meet -- Natasha Noorani and Zahra Paracha, who is also a member of bands Sikander Ka Mandar and Passivefruit. Having met in college in Lahore, the pair later moved to Karachi, where Zahra was born and raised, and where the pair wrote the music for Biryani Brothers. Until 2018, Biryani Brothers had only performed in Karachi, but today their musical journeys have led them back to Lahore where the duo first met.

This April, Biryani Brothers released their new single Sab Theek Ho Jaye Ga, a track “inspired by ideas of friendship and nostalgia while celebrating the idiosyncratic.”

Lyari Underground (L.U.G)

Comprised of 7 members, DJ Khalifa, DJ AKA 100, Anxiously, M4 Jin, Slipknot Denna, Danger and Desert Eagle, Lyari Underground is a rap group from what is considered to be one of Karachi’s most dangerous and most densely populated neighbourhoods. Connected by a passion for music, the collective has successfully worked towards providing a platform for the often unheard voices of Lyari. The collective is finally being acknowledged in the mainstream scene after being selected to perform on the 11th season of Coke Studio.

Earlier this year, Lyari Underground released their latest track, Rap e Badshah.

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Jasir Abro

Musician, filmmaker and entrepreneur, Jasir Abro has not only contributed to Karachi’s underground scene, but also elevated it - on a national and global platform with the launch of the music networking app he co-founded, Jambro. As a musician, Jasir is associated with several bands including Spoonful, Shenanigun, Beo Cheo Experiment and most recently Cosmic Fluid. Other known artists he has played and recorded with include Mooroo, Ali Gul Pir, Rachel Viccaji, Chand Taara Orchestra, Aamir Zaki, Talha Anjum, Aabid Brohi, Modu Tourre (Senegal), Aahad Nayani, Jor El Alter (Berlin).

Rudoh

One of the co-founders of Forever South, Bilal Nasir a.k.a Rudoh is an audio engineer, producer and musician who also runs post production sound studio, Box in a Box, where he works on sound projects with various clients and agencies. Earlier this year, Rudoh released his latest EP, Saudade.

Musician and music producer, Ali Suhail plays the guitar, ukulele, bass, mandolin and sings for several different bands. Since 2011 the multi-talented artist has been involved in some capacity with acts like Jumbo Jutt, The Joomi Experience, Ali Suhail, Sikandar ka Mandar, Shajie, Natasha Noorani, Natasha Humera Ejaz, LussunTV and Umair Jaswal - to name a few! Ali Suhail’s recent work as an artist and producer includes Ali Suhail - Pursuit Of Irrelevance, Sikandar Ka Mandar - 36 and Natasha Noorani’s debut album titled Munaasib.

Natasha Humera Ejaz (Stupid Happiness Theory)

Performing under her name Natasha Humera Ejaz as well as moniker Stupid Happiness Theory, Natasha is an Islamabad-raised, Karachi-based singer, songwriter, producer, educator and actor.

An undeniably multi-talented artist, Natasha has made a name for herself at home in Pakistan and abroad.

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Accepting the reality Support can come in many ways, but emerging artists’ most pressing need for support is funding.

With rising costs of performance venues - many of which were not even built with venue acoustics in mind - good spaces to perform live are hard to come by and increasingly expensive. Forced to the confines of private parties amongst peers, many musicians are not only isolated from potential public audiences, who are eager to search for music beyond the cookie-cutter mainstream, but also from a own larger community of like-minded musicians.

Despite circumstance, thanks to a handful of cultural institutions, entrepreneurs, event planners and the immense reach of the Internet, Karachi’s expanding underground music community is evolving, with platforms popping up in physical and digital spaces for musicians to share their music with an ever-growing audience. The underground music scene is small, resilient and eager to expand beyond the realms of what the mainstream music scene has to offer.

The good news is, albeit limited, institutions do exist that offer public audiences a taste of the sights and sounds of Karachi’s underground, on-the-ground.

Goethe Institut The Second Floor (T2F)

A cafe and community space for open dialogue and creative expression, T2F is a cultural institution.

Other than providing a platform for artists to perform at their monthly Open Mic event, T2F regularly hosts concerts, talks and workshops that put underground artists on a platform. Following the tragic passing of its founder, Sabeen Mahmud, T2F and its team understandably endured a difficult period regaining the drive, support and ambition that Sabeen personified in developing T2F to what it is today. Now headed by Pakistani musical powerhouse Arieb Azhar, Karachiites can expect great performance opportunities in the pipeline for audiences and musicians alike.

The cultural institute of Germany, Goethe-Institut is a worldwide initiative that promotes the study of German abroad as well as promoting cross cultural exchange programs. Deeply connected to Karachi’s arts and culture community, Goethe-Institut hosts events, workshops and other music related programmes that put talented emerging artists in the spotlight. https://www.facebook.com/goetheinstitut.pakistan

@amnansari

Pakistan Chowk Community Centre (PCCC) Perched in a small room overlooking Karachi’s historic Saddar Town on Pakistan Chowk, PCCC is a cultural initiative that aims to rehabilitate the space and community in which it is situated - beyond the four walls by which its headquarters are confined. Only one year in, Pakistan Chowk Community Centre has hosted eleven open mics, five music performances and hosted nineteen music and art classes among many other cultural engagement and mapping programs. https://www.facebook.com/pakistanchowkcc/

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Salt Arts

Not a venue, but an agency, Salt Arts regularly hosts stellar artistic performances throughout the city, Pakistan and Southeast Asia. What began as a platform that elevated underground artists has grown into a gateway where even mainstream musicians are provided access to wider audiences. https://www.facebook.com/saltarts/

The Grid

Another multipurpose community platform for creatives in the city, The Grid is a performance venue where musicians regularly jam, connect and collaborate with like-minded patrons. https://www.facebook.com/TheGridClub/

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Whilst good venues in Karachi are still hard to come by, more and more digital spaces have popped up from within the city, providing localised platforms for the city’s underground artists online. Here are a few:

Sine Valley

Sine Valley is an annual South Asian music festival that plans collateral events and collaborations with DIY musicians in Karachi and throughout the region. Dedicated to creating and educating the community on alternative creative art and culture, Sine Valley hosted its first - incredibly successful - collateral event in Karachi last year at community space, Pi & Co. https://www.facebook.com/sinevalley/

Cafe Commune

Inspired by the model of T2F, Cafe Commune is a newly opened community space in North Nazimabad.

A safe space for artists and activists, Cafe Commune is an inclusive platform for art, culture and music and dialogue where you can sit back, relax and enjoy laidback jam sessions in one of Karachi’s lesser explored parts of town. https://www.facebook.com/CafeCommune

Third World Radio

A monthly podcast featuring DJs and producers in Karachi as well across the globe, Third World Radio and its growing roster of talented musicians is a collective that also plans and caters to private events in the city. https://www.facebook.com/ thirdworldradio/

Forever South

Founded in 2012, Forever South is one of the underground scene’s longest standing digital communities for electronic music talent in Karachi. What began as a collective of like-minded musicians that once regularly hosted events in the city has evolved into a netlabel. Forever South continues to regularly promote its artists and their releases on its online platforms. https://www.facebook.com/ForeverSouth/

Karachi Community Radio (KCR)

Spaces for electronic music are even harder to come by in Karachi.

Nevertheless, the team behind a live-streaming online radio, KCR turned their studio space into a digital venue for audiences to access the exceptional talent in the city from the comfort of their homes on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/ iheartkcr/

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING

HOME IS WHERE

THE ART IS

with Sarah Najmi Bilgrami

By Yusra Askari

Sarah Najmi Bilgrami is an architect, a designer and a mother of three. One of the four key pillars at the Najmi Bilgrami Collaborative, a prestigious architecture and design house based in Karachi, she is also a travel enthusiast and a bona fide art connoisseur. Here, she takes us on a tour of her beautiful home and talks about her work, travels, curated treasures and what inspires her design aesthetic.

Photography: Malika Abbas

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING only fields I ever saw myself in. It is also the very reason why I went on to pursue two degrees at RISD – a Bachelors of Architecture, and a Bachelors in Fine Arts. I would say genetics, my passion for design and my academic training collectively and cohesively enabled me take on my passion.

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eet Sarah Najmi Bilgrami -- architect, designer and mother of three. A graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design, Sarah began her professional career in Boston and has since come a long, long way.

Today she constitutes one-fourth of the Najmi Bilgrami Collaborative, a merger that boasts the legacy of two stalwart architectural design houses, Misbah Najmi and Associates and Bilgrami & Faruque, and the Creative Director at its sister concern, Yoca.

Within a decade of its inception, the Najmi Bilgrami Collaborative found itself a listing on the Architectural Digest 50 -- the 50 most influential names in Architecture and Design in 2015. With their work continuing to find acknowledgement internationally, last year, Sarah, her husband Zayd, brother Ahsan and their team at NBCL won the Golden A’ Design Award for the interior design of the Gul Ahmed office in Karachi, while Yoca was awarded the Silver A’ Design Award for the Unity Coffee Table. Previously in 2017, Yoca had also been awarded a Silver A’ Design Award for their infamous Amoeba Table.

Sarah’s own home in Karachi not only bears testament to her and her husband Zayd’s design sensibilities but is also defined by their collective creative aesthetic and the needs of their young children. On a warm afternoon, we catch up with Sarah over tumblers of chilled orange Tang to discuss all things style.

Q. You hail from a family of architects. What prompted you personally to take up architecture as a profession?

A. From a very young age, I knew I wanted to pursue a career in design and architecture -- the

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Q. At the Najmi Bilgrami Collaborative, your partners include your brother, husband and father-in-law – tell us about the work dynamic.

A. I’m one of those fortunate people who happens to be working with family. I consider it a privilege to be able to discuss ideas with like-minded individuals. But at the same time, none of us molly coddle each other professionally – as a team, we are very progressive when it comes to design and put it first and foremost. With abandon, we are able to tell each other what works and what doesn’t and play off each other’s strengths. I’m generally the one who’s behind the desk while Zayd and my brother Ahsan take on the field work.

I think each one of us has their own strengths and that is what makes the dynamic work. That and mutual respect goes a long, long way.

Q. With regard to design, how would you define your style?

A. I don’t personally go for stark minimalism. For me, minimalism is style that is extremely curated – it just doesn’t happen. There’s a lot of editing that minimalists need to do so that it can be done right. I also believe that you need to have the right climate and backdrop for a minimalist aesthetic.

It’s beautiful when it’s done surrounded by plush gardens, or near a water body, or even a simple skyline, then it lends itself to the environment. But when you’re in a dense urban network, minimalism loses its charm. Unless you go out of your way to curate that look by pushing its boundaries, and that’s when it works. I personally am a huge fan of rich luxurious materials, marbles, silks and high end metals. So, I love the luxurious aesthetic and that is what I recommend. Also, quality is timeless, there is no replacement for it.

Q. How in your view have your design sensibilities evolved over the years?

A. Design sensibilities constantly evolve. While the fundamentals remain constant, design sensibilities keep changing and maturing with the passage of time, when you travel and depending on who it caters to. At NBCL, we as designers, as architects like to keep on challenging ourselves with every project we take on.

Q. As an architect and designer, what inspires you or where do you seek inspiration?

A. My design inspiration is fluid and always has been. It can come from meeting someone interesting, or a piece of jewellery that I absolutely love, or something in nature or even a colour. A painting, a song and even my babies! I also travel extensively so that always inspires me.

A LIFE WORTH LIVING Q: Who is your role model when it comes to architecture?

A: I don’t have one role model per se. I am a fan of the great masters – Le Corbusier, Santiago Calatrava, Raphael, Frank Lloyd Wright, but then again, who isn’t? Closer to home, I love the work of my father, Misbah Najmi, my father-in- law, Akeel Bilgrami and Habib Fida Ali. But my ultimate favourite, a design sensibility that I aspire to come close to is that of the Japanese. I think they just rule the world when it comes to aesthetic.

Albeit when it comes to old school architecture, Europeans lead the way.

Q. With regard to interior spaces and architecture, how do you feel Pakistan as a market has changed since you began practicing?

A: I think people are a lot more aware now, and very open to spending on their homes. They’re very house proud and excited about where new design trends are taking them. I also feel a little sad seeing people doing replications, or settling for mediocrity. So, it’s always a Catch-22 situation.

I believe the market has definitely become larger and more saturated, which isn’t always a good thing.

Q. Which is your favourite piece/pieces in your living space and why?

A. Any piece that is designed well, my home is filled with them.

Q. Apart from your own designs, a number of pieces that find place in your home have been collected on your many travels – do you enjoy shopping for your home on trips abroad?

A: Other than our own designs and the heirlooms we have inherited from our family, our home is made up of a number of pieces we have collected on our travels. I’ve picked up pieces from the Marche in Paris, I’ve shopped at this quaint little shop in Florence, in the US, you name it - I’ve bought back up pieces from almost everywhere I have ever visited.

Q. Which trip/s would you say has/ have been your favourite with regard to shopping for your own home?

A. For me, Paris is an emotion! No matter where in the city I go, I feel free … I feel happy. The sheer joy of taking in the architecture, of taking in the sights – I love it.

Q: Who would you have entrusted with the responsibility of designing your home if you had not done it?

A: I don’t think I would have given the mandate to anyone else. I know what I want – this is who I am as a designer.

I would do it myself.

Everything in my house is about us as a family, and I identify with each piece individually.

Q. When it comes to buying pieces for your home, which place in the world is on your wish list to visit?

A. Japan!

Q. When designing interiors for others, is it easy or difficult to personalize their space? How do you combine the best of their wish list and your design aesthetic?

A. It has always been a curated process. Anyone 140

who comes to us has to have some research done since we deliver spaces that we would imagine being comfortable in. This way, the relationship of working with someone on their space is removed from the client vs designer friction. It’s more of a dialogue and we work on projects where we know the people are going to understand the language and trust us with their spaces.

Q: You are asked to identify one piece or a number of pieces in your home that personifies you, what might that be?

A: I think each piece that constitutes our home personifies a little bit of me – everything in some manner signifies who I am, who we are.

Everything in my house is about us as a family, and I identify with each piece, individually.

My children’s rooms, which I love. My dining table, too is very special. Also, I love my art acquisitions; to see them bring alive our walls make me so happy.

But if there is one piece I absolutely love, I would have to say it would be the Amoeba Table. I am delighted that it’s found a home in my room.

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING Q: Your art collection, part inherited and part acquired, brings alive the walls of your home – which piece/ pieces do you hold closest to your heart and why?

A: Undoubtedly, my Jamil Naqshs – it’s an instant emotional connect. I’ve grown up seeing them adorn the walls of my parent’s home and I consider myself very lucky to have inherited them. I also have a very beautiful autographed signature sketch by Bashir Mirza, which is inscribed by the artist to read: “For My Friend, Misbah”.

Having as part of my own collection, a piece of art that bears my father’s name, warms my heart.

Among my own acquisitions are the works of a number of contemporary artists. Among them the works of Adeeluz- Zafar and Irfan Hasan, to me are mind blowing.

I also have some amazing paintings which have been made by my children for me which I really love. Zayd and I just love collecting art – classic, contemporary, quirky, you name it. We have this huge one flanking the window of our dining room which has now become a signature item at the Najmi Bilgrami residence – everyone who comes to visit, first meets the horse and then meets us.

It’s quite funny.

Q: What is your most memorable trip?

A: I’ve had a number of memorable trips but the most memorable thus far would have to be my birthday celebrations in Barcelona. The trip was immaculately thought out by my husband Zayd who had rounded up all my friends and loved ones. He went way beyond what I could have ever imagined to make sure my likes and dislikes were taken care of and I was thoroughly indulged. The memories we made, and the way everything was planned to perfection is what makes it the most memorable for me. He went into so much detail to make sure everyone was taken care of and had a good time. It was a really fun, fun trip.

Other than that, my childhood trips with my family. When I had just started college, my parents came to visit me and I showed them around – it was one of the most beautiful moments that I cherish because you could see the pride and happiness in their eyes.

Q: Given a chance, who would you like to design a living or work space for?

A: I think the Obamas. I’m a huge fan of their rapport with each other, and I think they’re just a very cool couple who despite sitting on a seat of leadership seem to be very fun and approachable – I think it would be a really fun project to work on. Also, I would absolutely love to design for Ellen DeGeneres, because I would get to hang out with her - I think she’s super cool.

Q: Leyl, Eliyah, Zaire – in your view, which of your three children do you see as part of NBCL in the future?

A: Currently, none of my children are thinking of joining the field. They’re very happy doing gymnastics, and being little rock stars. I’m hoping that one day they will have a change of heart and find interest in their mother, father, uncle and grandfathers’ love for architecture. But I am happy with whatever they wish to do as long as they excel in it, so I’m not pushing anyone of them for anything.

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THE FASHION PLAYLISTFIX

Mogra Malti We at The PinkTree Company were at sea when it came to conceptualising our Eid 2019 collection. There were many factors to consider – a blistering summer, festive look, light, breezy materials and The PinkTree ethos to name a few. We found out that if there’s anything worse than writer’s block, it’s design block.

This mental block led us to another block. A chance meeting with Ghulam Abbas Soomro morphed the design block into something we have always been passionate about – block printing. You’d say what’s so special about block printing. In a way you are right. We have used the craft in our previous Eid collections too.

The special element in Mogra Malti, Eid 2019 collection is that it’s a collaboration between centuries-old artisans and contemporary design sensibility, a love child of The PinkTree’s passion for crafts, tradition and contemporary sense of design and the ancient heritage and labour of the Soomro family in Bhitshah and Hala, Sindh.

The craft of block printing has been running in the Soomro family for centuries, passed on from generation to generation, keeping the beautiful artisan shop alive and flourishing. The family prints ajraks in vegetable and natural dyes. Abbas Soomro also conducts teaching workshops on natural and vegetable dyeing at art schools for the young and the creative.

Beautiful traditional resist dyes and block prints are the signature textile of Sindh. A little progress in design and colour has been seen in the last two decades. Like the craft, refined, delicately hand-carved blocks are also passed from one generation to the next in the family. The sophistication of technique creates exceedingly beautiful and intricate patterns when printed.

We wanted to respect their craft, without making any fundamental changes to it. The PinkTree design team travelled to Bhitshah and spent days at Soomro’s workshop. We played with his blocks, our colours and created many designs.

Another trip resulted in producing prototypes with The PinkTree signature silhouettes and earlier designs. We fell in love with them. And Mogra Malti was born. We hope this Eid, you also experience similar love and envelope yourself in the fragrant Mogra Malti, a mix of passion and heritage that is a step towards a vibrant future. Now, design intervention is a part of The PinkTree repertoire.

Photography: Jaffer Hasan Personalities: Hareem Farooq & Kinza Razzaq Styling: Amal Fatima Qadri Hair & make up: Nabila’s N-Pro Jewellery: Ali Javeri Jewellers Footwear: Soma

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THE FASHION PLAYLISTFIX

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LET’S THE PLAYLIST DISH

A

FOOD

CRAWL through

Old Lahore

By Ali Rehman

Sample the best of Lahore’s traditional cuisine as food photographer and ultimate foodie Ali Rehman takes you on a tour of some of the most authentic places for street food within androon shehr (the inner city), a place renowned as much for its centuries-old history and culture as it is for its delectable flavours.

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3 Imam Din Halwa Poori

The Best Halwa Poori

Paisa Akhbaar, Anarkali

1 Butt Halwa Poori Royal Park

Hands down one of the best places for halwa poori in the city, with an extensive menu that also includes qeemay wala katlamma, meetha poora, lassi and doodh patti.

In my opinion, the best aatay ki pooris in Lahore are to be found here – small and crisp, served with a cocktail of chanay and aloo bhaaji. The potatoes are spiced just right and when scooped up with the fresh poori, the very first bite will leave you in awe.

Rating: 9/10 Price: Rs. 25 per poori (which comes with a small serving of halwa) Seating: On the street

Rating: 8/10 Price: My total bill was Rs. 610 for 5 poori, 2 lassi, 1 plate halwa, 1 meetha poora and 1 katlamma Seating: Street parking

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Taj Mahal Halwa Poori Taxali Gate

While this remains one of the most popular halwa poori joints in the city, I would hesitate to rate it as the best out there. Its popularity can be attributed mainly to its easy access and visibility on social media. The halwa is quite good but their poori and chanay are average.

Bonus: After breakfast, take an early morning walk to the nearby Badshahi Mosque for a splendid photo-op.

2 Meher Basheer Halwa Poori Mori Gate

This is a hidden jewel of the Walled City. The pooris are made from wholemeal flour (aata) and deep fried, and served with halwa cooked in desi ghee. What adds to the experience of the delicious food is the walk through the narrow alleys of Old Lahore, transporting you back in time.

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Rating: 7/10 Price: Rs. 25 per poori Seating: Very basic Parking: Your car has to be parked outside the Walled City, ideally near Urdu bazaar, and you’ll need to walk from there.

5 Zafar Halwa Poori

Rating: Overall 7/10; Halwa 9/10 Price: Rs. 25 per poori Seating: In the park right opposite the restaurant but not very clean generally Parking: Ample parking space around the shop and the park

Paisa Akhbaar, Anarkali

Another place that makes pooris from wholemeal flour (aata); these are very light and easy on the stomach, unlike the typical white flour pooris. The potatoes served on the side remind me of bhaajis made at home.

Rating: 8/10 Price: Rs. 25 per poori Seating: Outdoor, on the street.

Parking: Go on a Sunday and there is ample parking space in the streets outside the shop.

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LET’S DISH

The Best Nihari

The Best of The Rest

1 Waris Nihari

Paisa Akhbaar, Anarkali The best nihari in Lahore in my opinion, with tender pieces of meat cooked in mild spices that don’t overpower the flavour of the other ingredients. Not for you if you like your food to be very hot but I prefer this level of spice.

1 Lassi, Imran Shah Kheer Shop Faseel Road, Bhaati Gate

This place serves the best glass of lassi in the Walled City – a rich concoction with a thick layer of malai on top. To die for!

Rating: 9/10 Price: Rs. 60 Seating: Just one bench outside the shop, and you have to be really lucky to bag it, which I did. Otherwise, just chug the drink down while standing outside.

Rating: 9/10 Price: Rs. 1,000 approximately for the Special Nihari, which is served with machli ki boti (shank meat), maghaz (brain) and nali (marrow).

There are less expensive options here too but this one is definitely a notch above.

Seating: Spacious family seating hall. I personally prefer sitting outside on the footpath (it makes the food look a lot more instagrammable!)

2 Haji Nihari

2 Amritsari Dahi & Cream Bhallay Beadon Road

You will be hard pressed to find chaat like this anywhere else in the city – sweet, creamy bhallas served with spicy masala. The explosion of flavours is a treat for the taste buds.

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Rating: Price:

10/10 Rs. 70 per plate

Lohari Gate

One of the most popular nihari joints in Old Lahore. This is a slightly spicier version compared to the other wellknown nihari places. The meat is super tender and is served with whole-wheat khameeri roti. Sunday mornings are the best time to enjoy this Lahori delicacy and soak in the centuries-old culture along the streets of Lohari Gate.

Rating: 7/10 Price: Rs. 260 per half plate Seating: A seating hall suitable for families Parking: Cars have to be parked outside Lohari Gate. Weekdays are super busy in the area, hence it’s advisable to go with a driver or Careem/Uber it for convenience.

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3 Chikkar Cholay Mall Road

The most authentic chikkar cholay can be found at this cart near Masjid-eShuhada, right outside Sadiq Plaza on Mall Road. The dish is served cold with a generous serving of salad, raita and pickle.

Rating: Price:

9/10 Rs. 130 for 2 servings and 3 naan

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4 Arif Chatkhara

6 Bhatti Anday Wali Tikkiyan

Taxali Gate

Lakshmi Chowk

Undoubtedly the trendsetter for tawa chicken in Lahore and a treat for those who crave spicy street food. While its tawa chicken remains one of the most sought-after delicacies in the Walled City, a lesser known item on the menu, and one that is just as delicious, is the daal wali tikki (lentil kebab). Both dishes are served with rumaali roti.

Lakshmi Chowk is love… take your outof-town guests for a night of authentic Lahori cuisine here and you’ll be able to serve them a feast for under a 1000 rupees. The daal and anda tikkis with rumaali roti from Bhatti never fail to impress.

Rating: 8/10 Price: Rs. 628 for 4 people Seating: Roadside charpoys

Rating: 9/10 Price: Rs. 350 per tawa piece Seating: Decent seating area for women and families Parking: Street parking

5 Fruit Chaat Regal Chowk

The cold fruit chaat is served in earthen bowls and topped with almonds and dates – a treat for both the eyes and the taste buds. No wonder this is one of the most famous chaat places in Lahore.

Rating: Price:

8/10 Rs. 70

7 Samosas, Butt Sweets Lakshmi Chowk

These potato-filled samosas are absolute heaven, especially when dipped in the signature meethi chatni.

Rating: Price:

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10/10 Potato samosa Rs. 24; chicken samosa Rs. 50

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TRAVELISTA

my SQUARE

MILE

@thatsoplush Pashmina Ahmed’s

ISLAMABAD

Photography: Avaice Haider

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Lifestyle blogger Pashmina Ahmed grew up in London, where she graduated from the London College of Fashion.

Moving to Islamabad ten years ago, she instantly fell in love with the city and its peaceful vibe, choosing to make it her home permanently after marrying her high school sweetheart. As the mother of three-year-old Asher and a style influencer, she finds that Islamabad provides her with plenty of opportunities not only to indulge in some wholesome family fun but also satisfy the innate fashionista in her. Read on as Pashmina takes us on a tour of some of her favourite spots in the capital city.

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TRAVELISTA

Flower Market

1

I spend a lot of time here picking fresh flowers for my home. They have an amazing selection, and the best time to visit is early morning.

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2 District 6 District 6 in F-6 Markaz is one of my favourite places to eat at because their food is delicious and the ambience is a perfect representation of Islamabad – clean, minimal, calm.

Japanese Park The park is great fun for kids and the entry fee is next to nothing. Great for picnics too. Absolutely beautiful landscaping and it’s right at the foot of the Margalla Hills. My son loves the outdoors so I take him there often; it has safe swings and fun activity sets for kids to be wild and free.

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TRAVELISTA

Hotspot

Photo courtesy: 1947mag.com

Toni & Guy Toni & Guy Islamabad is a great place for every type of treatment, but why I love going there is because even though it’s an international chain, the Islamabad branch gives you a personalised feel. Senior stylists as well as Juju Haider herself treats every client like a friend.

There is a sense of familiarity that makes you want to go back again. And that’s a very Islamabad thing.

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Hotspot is the oldest and coolest spot for homemade ice-cream and now savoury food too. It’s a pit stop at least a few times a week for desserts and they do a mean burger too! The retro tin posters always keep us entertained.

The old train carriage is a city favourite and now a tourist destination for all Isloo newbies. Very instagrammable!

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TRAVELISTA

My style jo urney

y I have been in the fashion industr label Plush own my with for over ten years now, starting r and sold in wea tern igned wes

by Pashmina, under which I des , Oman and rain Bah , oss the UAE unique conceptual boutiques acr and focus at kse bac a e ided to tak Egypt. When I had my son I dec the had I s. ject pro ing ce styl more on motherhood and freelan and zia Gra n, ista Pak lo! tions like Hel privilege of working with publica utQur and wal Jas ir Uza sic videos for Sunday Times as well as on mu lly ura nat very e cam h Plus g That’s So ul-ain Baloch. My Instagram blo a and r the mo a as life s and my as I started documenting my day am and eventually made it a agr Inst ugh thro fashion enthusiast rate with and promote more regular thing. Now I collabo ally brands whose products I person like and believe in.

Three things I always carry in my handbag

1. Wipes, for my son’s messy accidents 2. My creamy lip stain ause 3. Powerbank for my phone bec it’s always on low battery

An ideal weekend for our family We love to visit our friends who live by Rawal Lake and enjoy lunch with views of little boats passing by.

Favourite summer accessory

Straw hats! Trendy and very practical in the heat. Also for a mother like me who never has time for blow-dries, it’s a great bad hair day cover up!

Favourite summer trend

I’m loving ankle length dresses because for Islamabad they are appropriate to even go out in and also look great, with sneakers for a casual look or heels for a night out with friends.

The best thing about living in Islamabad

What I love about this city is the way it lifts me up on some of my worst days. I take a drive around the city and my day is made. Its beauty never gets old. One look at the lush green hills changes my mood.

We also like to drive up to Pir Sohawa for delicious desi food (cheese naans and palak paneer are my favourite) at Monal restaurant with live music. And if we are feeling like a sheesha, then we drive a little further to Highland Resort to spend the day.

Another great outdoor option is Shah Allah Ditta, known for its caves, zip lining and archery as well as other fun activities for all ages. It makes for a fun road trip with friends and is only 20 minutes from the centre of town.

My favo urite shopping destination in Islamabad

Mango, Outfitters, Almas, Inc all the stores I love including for to gomy is ll Ma s uru Centa rnational brands and feeds h day with more local and inte eac ing and exp It’s re! mo and lots my fashion hunger just fine!

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EATING YOUR WAY THROUGH

CHI-TOWN

By Sidrah Haque

Travel enthusiast Sidrah Haque offers a personal food guide to Chicago - including the legendary Portillo’s - based on her recent three-day trip to the Windy City.

As she reviews her experiences of the rich medley of tastes and flavours, she details the items that tantalized her taste buds and then those which, contrary to popular belief, did not! Read on to add and subtract from your Chi-Town bucket list.

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here’s nothing like an unhindered view of the Gold Coast, and a rare blizzard thrown in the mix, to put a damp towel on your Chicago plans.

But come rain, sleet or snow, if you have the heart – and the appropriate gear – no weather is too bad to explore any city. Especially when it comes to a place famous for its architecture, its way of life and its food!

Three nights in Chicago gave me plenty of time to touch base with Chicago’s Magnificent Mile and its surrounding hotspots, but what I want to tell you most about, is the food. Under the towering buildings and bejewelled nightscape, my first decision in Chicago involved a pizza.

If you have the heart – and the appropriate gear – no weather is too bad to explore any city.

WILDBERRY GIORDANO’S

There are opinions aplenty on where you can get the best pizza in Chicago, but most Tripadvisor posts led my husband and I to Giordano’s – a pizza joint that traces back to the early 1970s. Home to the city that created its very own pizza style, we entered a crowded outlet on a Friday night but were quickly shown our way to a table. Pizza here is a family affair, you could tell from the crowd.

Peering through the menu, the wait staff quickly suggested we order just one small deep dish pizza instead of two. We offset this by ordering seafood appetizers instead, to while away the 45 minute wait. Servings are big in the USA, but nothing had us prepared for the thick, cheesy pizza pie delivered to us. Oh and how to describe it! Imagine your regular pizza, but growing up vertically! My husband dug into the rich, meaty pie of sauce and cheese: he loved it. Me – not so much of a fan, but I was happy to tick off a must-do from our itinerary.

Morning in snowy Chicago had us craving hard for one thing: pancakes. And a resident friend had directed us to go no further than Wildberry. What followed after a quick Uber to the crowded hipster breakfast central was a heavenly combination of the most fluffy buttermilk pancakes I had ever tasted.

The berry compote , whipped cream and the addons made it a heart-attack on a plate, but worth it.

A veggie omelette was thrown into the mix; but we would soon get used to the huge servings that would follow us throughout our trip. We were tempted to try the specialty coffees, but after the generous portions, we hadn’t much room for them and then, there was a whole city out there waiting to be discovered.

Average cost for a meal for two: around $30

Average cost for a meal for two: around $30

PORTILLO’S

After a day of skyscrapers and exploring the Windy City, we settled on Chicago’s iconic all-beef hotdogs at Portillo’s. Walking inside the establishment on West Ontario Street was a treat to both the ears and the eyes. In between the long walk from the order queue to the pickup line, there was plenty of opportunity to gaze at the fixtures of the restaurant – the red checkered tables, the retro décor, the hanging mannequins and vehicles strapped from the ceiling.

Yes, you read that correctly. We picked up our plastic trays, and some rather soggy looking beefdogs, however, to be completely disappointed with the taste. It was bland, devoid of experience and lacked the kick or tanginess my desi taste buds thrive on.

The beefdogs were sparse on condiments (how they are supposed to be, I know) but the bland taste was a letdown. The bun looked moist and sad, and the lone pickle had seen a better life. Disappointed, we walked to the nearby Walgreens to pick up some ice-cream before calling it a night.

Average cost for a meal for two: under $10 170

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KIOSK @

McCORMICK TRIBUNE ICE SKATING RINK

No visit to Chicago is complete without paying homage to The Bean. And we were lucky to catch the McCormick Tribune Ice Skating Rink open to a throng of waiting skaters. We grabbed hot chocolate with marshmallows, and made our way to the patio to watch the skaters loop in circles and the more experienced ones spin and twirl in the center of the rink.

CHICAGO ART INSTITUTE

MUSEUM CAFÉ

Photo by Ali Al Aidarus

Average cost for hot chocolate for two: under $8

The next day, with a fresh layer of snow padding Chicago overnight, we kicked off our day with a tour of the Chicago Art Institute. After perusing our way through the eras, we headed down to the lower level to the museum café. We didn’t have high expectations, but in fact, the quality of the menu and the creativity of the dishes blowed us away.

We grabbed our trays through the assembly line, picking up hot entrees, a sandwich and a warm bowl of sea salt and vinegar chip and squash soup.

As is with museums everywhere, the food was pricey, but we enjoyed the small break of peoplewatching in the stark white glossy interior of the café.

Average cost for a meal for two: around $40

Photo by Garyhebding

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SHAKE SHACK

A further day’s venturing about led us hungrily to the nearest Shake Shack on East Ohio Street. This wasn’t our first time at the rodeo and we ordered our regular Single Shack burgers and Caramel Concrete. We gave the beefdog a try and though it was a bit more charred than the one at Portillo’s, it added a rich edge, and was complimented by the heavily loaded condiments. The burgers at this particular Shack were just okay, but the desserts were fabulous. And the price just right. One Shack down, many more to go, said the Husband.

Average cost for a meal for two: under $30 Photo by Gizem Şenkal

CHEESECAKE FACTORY CHESTNUT STREET

Photo by Paulo Carvalho

Closing out Chicago with one last visit to Michigan Avenue, and loading up on the season sales, we were in the mood for cheesecake and headed to none other than the Cheesecake Factory. The one on Chestnut Street is huge and seemed like it was some psychedelic movie scene. And the menu a smorgasbord of delights. We added Chicken Samosas (yes!) and Beefburger Spring Rolls to our order and genuinely enjoyed the taste of both.

Someone get me that cilantro dipping sauce recipe!

Average cost for a snack for two: under $15 So here it was: a medley of tastes and flavours sampled in Chicago in our three nights there.

Honestly, this did not even touch the surface of grimy bistros, word-of-mouth cafes and local cart food that Chicago is insanely famous for. But if you’re in town to tourist, try to mark these staples and drop by in between breaks from sightseeing.

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Photo by Peter Nagel

ART SPEAKS

From

Manora To VENICE

By Emaan Maqbool

The 58th International Venice Art Biennale marks the first time Pakistan has officially participated the world’s most prestigious art event with its own pavilion. Artist Naiza Khan’s exhibition ‘Manora Field Notes’ was presented at the inaugural pavilion, curated by Zahra Khan of Foundation ArtDivvy and supported by the Pakistan National Council of the Arts 177

W ART SPEAKS

hen you Google Manora Island, Karachi, the most commonly found description is this: “Manora or Manoro is a small peninsula located just south of the Port of Karachi, Sindh, Pakistan. Manora is connected to the mainland by a 12-kilometer long causeway called the Sandspit. Manora and neighbouring islands form a protective barrier between Karachi harbour to the north and the Arabian Sea to the south. The western bay of the harbour contains endangered mangrove forests which border the Sandspit and Manora islands. To the east is Karachi Bay and the beach towns of Kiamari and Clifton.”

Karachi and the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture. Apart from her exhibitions, she has curated shows, has published essays, lectured at conferences and won various awards. Her most recent accolade is her exhibit, Manora Field Notes, at the first-ever Pakistan pavilion at La Biennale Di Venezia or the Venice Art Biennale.

While these lines accurately convey the geographical reality of Manora, they are in fact the least interesting facts about the island, considering its entrenched, eclectic history. Once a mangrove forest, of which some dwindling proof still exists, it is believed to have been a camp for Alexander’s armies. The Manora Fort, still standing, was built in the 18th century by the Talpur dynasty that ruled over Sindh, and was taken over by the British in 1839. It eventually became a base for the Pakistan Navy and home to the Pakistan Naval Academy.

The navy too has over the years been vacating the island and shifting to Ormara but not without leaving their mark on Manora, as have others in the past. The British left behind a remarkable lighthouse, one of the island’s most prominent sights, while the various ethnicities that have called it home over the centuries have left their own distinct marks, such as the 100-year-old Shri Varun Dev temple and St. Paul’s Church, built in 1864.

Currently, Manora is a busy tourist site; only a short boat ride away from the Karachi port, it is considered a nice picnic spot for the family. Though photography is not allowed, there are telescopes for visitors’ viewing purposes, much like the telescopes that can be seen in Naiza Khan’s artwork revolving around Manora.

Naiza is a visual artist who lives between London and Karachi. She is affiliated with University of

has even commissioned local artisans. One can say that Naiza’s medium evolves with the need of the subject matter. In her work we have seen an array of social topics such as gender, public space, society, etc. One of her most famous artworks, Henna Hands, consisted of figures drawn on public walls using henna, which not only touched upon a novel medium to work with but also gave an added The Venice Art Biennale is an international layer of meaning to the art. For another series, exhibition of contemporary visual art that takes place every two years. It dates back to 1895, making The Skin She Wears, Naiza had women’s clothing, this the 58th one. Artists from around the world are typically fashioned in a delicate manner, made in galvanized steel. The material not only worked as invited to participate, and countries are given their own pavilions which are spread throughout the city. a medium but gave the items the feel of an armour playing on social perceptions. Another prominent The last biennale in 2017 had over 615,000 visitors, theme in her work is the city of Karachi, including 55% of which were from outside of Italy. It is one Manora Island. of the most prestigious and historical platforms in the art world. Many other countries have now Manora Island first appeared in Naiza’s established their own biennales work in 2010 with which follow the same format the exhibition, as the Venice Art Biennale.

Restore the Boundaries For the first time in The Manora history a Pakistan Project. pavilion has been Since then set, organized Naiza has

by Foundation presented Art Divvy and the island supported by the in her work Pakistan National through Arts Council. sculpture, Foundation Art drawings, Divvy, founded photographs, in 2016 with video installations Zahra Khan and paintings. as curator and Naiza’s work on the subject is from first-hand director, aims to observations and research. She has seen the promote Pakistani transformation of the island and has studied contemporary visual the space, ecology and habitation through art within the country and internationally. With this detailed documentation and mapping-based event Art Divvy has presented an opportunity to the investigation.W The body of work to be exhibited Pakistan art scene to enter the international market at the Venice Art Biennale will be held in three at a level that was not accessible before. While other interconnected spaces.

It is a collection of archival artists have exhibited in the Venice Art Biennale material, historic myths, conversations with local previously, this is the first official pavilion for Pakistan, communities and architectonic phenomena such where Naiza Khan will exhibit her solo show, curated as ruins and construction sites.

Archival materials

by Zahra Khan. found by Naiza from the ruins of the 19th-century Manora Observatory include the 1939 India “Naiza’s practice, based upon research and Weather Review, a record of weather reports from observation, brings to life the unique nautical, across British India, which form the basis multicultural and multi-religious history of Manora Island, as a microcosm of larger Pakistan,” explains wvof a sound piece, and a series of cast objects in brass. In a sense Naiza’s work encapsulates the Zahra. “I am thrilled to be working with Naiza on history that the island has seen and the marks that Pakistan’s first national pavilion at La Biennale di Venezia. She is the ideal artist to represent Pakistan have been etched on it. on this exciting global stage and her work perfectly encapsulates the theme of Biennale Arte 2019.

A graduate of the Ruskin School of Art at the University of Oxford, with a bachelor’s in Fine Arts, Naiza’s practice is not just limited to painting and drawing. Over the years, she has worked in many different mediums, including sculpture, installations, found objects, photographs, performances and 178

The show, Manora Field Notes, fits in well with the biennale’s theme for this year – ‘May you live in interesting times’ – which is believed to be a Chinese proverb or curse. It is certain that this year those visiting the Venice Art Biennale would not only be acquainted with Venice but Manora Island too, as it paves it way through to a global platform.

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ART SPEAKS

B N U - S VA D

THE ANNUAL TRIO

By Rabeya Jalil

Degree Show 2019 The undergraduate thesis show furthers the challenge to identify new grounds for making and sharing. The art school’s hallmark is its promising commitment to multi-disciplinary studio practices and an alternative pedagogy that cuts through national and cultural boundaries. With strong leadership and a spirited exchange of ideas within its departments, it debates the history of ideas within the changing global contexts of learning.

With all guns blazing, the Beaconhouse National University, School of Visual Arts and Design, BNU-SVADW (Dean, Rashid Rana) presented their annual trio – a week that flamboyantly shaped its educational vision. The consecutive events were the Degree Show 2019 with more than 60 thesis projects in Visual Arts, Communication Design, Textile, Fashion and Jewellery Design, The Design Summit 2020 – Prologue 2 with panel discussions from Design Academia and Industry, and the NothingFest 2019 with talks by professionals from a range of disciplines (other than art and design).

High definition projections, poetic installations, judicious displays and strategic interventions within studio and outside (formal gallery space) offer an immersive experience. The graduating students experiment with a range of tools and mediums to track their artistic and aesthetic concerns; light, sound, paint, mixed media, music, metal, interactive web design, mobile aps, augmented and virtual life, artificial intelligence software, projection mapping, household objects, foliage and raw organic earth material.

Fatima Zakir - Textile and Fibre Studies

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ART SPEAKS

Meera wearing one of the

t

pieces by a jewellery studen

The diversity of expression at SVAD owes to the regional and international student body as well.

Coming from various cities of Pakistan and from countries across South Asia, students undergo their unique paths of inquiry to bring together a transnational perspective to their work.

Students at the Deportment of Visual Arts (Risham Syed and Basir Mahmood as thesis advisors) question predetermined boundaries of studio practice, deconstruct societal norms and notions of identity, and play with ideas of materiality and interpretation. Visual Communication Design students (thesis advisors Omair Faizullah, Zainab Barlas and Ebaa Khurram) develop data-driven visual analogy. They build alternate realities, stretching their imaginations into a world where the history of Muslim empire offers another trajectory.

They imagine their country’s history of colonization entering into the Chinese era, speculate the traps and inevitability of virtual life, propose games based on local myths, critique surveillance and technology, and create music instruments that fuse the classical and the contemporary. This new generation of designers bears a deeper understanding of the world around them. Instead of proposing solutions, they pose introspective questions and offer responses through illustration, animation, interaction, and print. Works at the Program of Jewellery and Accessory Design (thesis advisors, Ayesha Ahmad and Sana Aziz) probe conversations between movement and interaction, person and object, and the maker and wearer.

Students from the Program of Fashion and Fiber Studies (thesis advisors, Pakeezah Ziadi, Ammar Shahid) present their personal and fictional synopses of sociocultural encounters with the city. Work from the Program of Textile and Fiber Studies (thesis advisors, Kiran Shah and Sana Khan) predominantly reflects on personal turmoil and anxiety, subsequently becoming a healing mechanism for many.

The young artists and designers, with an inclusive, self-assured language and a democratic approach to creative practice, have set the bar high for their contemporaries as well as for their own future projects.

NothingFest 2019 The third edition of NothingFest (Rohma Khan’s brainchild) was held from Apr 22-26, 2019. According to Rashid Rana, Dean BNU-SVAD, NothingFest 2019 is an ongoing effort to expand pedagogy outside the classroom, and seek alternate means of knowledge sharing that augment prescribed curricula.

The sub-theme for this year is ‘Blank’. Continuing the tradition of bringing people outside of art and design academia, this year too (under the Directorship of Rohma Khan and Aroosa Rana) the festival invites highly esteemed and learned scholars to school campus.

Ali Azmat with Aroosa and Rashid Rana

The talks commence with Syed Fakir Aijazuddin, followed by psychiatrist Ali Hashmi, celebrated actors Samina Peerzada and Meera, the exuberant adventurer Moin Khan and the veteran lawyer, Salman Raja. The speakers interpret the idea of ‘Blank’ through poetry, audience interaction and personal stories. Common discussion hooks are Generation Blank, a Blank Mind, Blank Out, Drawing a Blank and a Blank State. Interactive talkshops are later conducted for students by leading professionals of their fields; Ali Azmat, Poor Rich boys, Talha Ali, Ayesha Nasir and many more.

The Design Summit 2020 – Prologue 2

Arwa Ansar - Visual Communication Design

Iqra Naeem - Fasion and Fibre Studies

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Maleeka Zahra - Third Culture

With Rashid Rana as the Founder, Ijlal Muzaffar as the Creative Director and Omair Faizullah as the Lead, the Design Summit (DS) Prologues invite designers from all over Pakistan each year for a collective reflection on the contexts that shape their professional and academic practice. Last year, over 50 academics and specialists convened under one roof at the inaugural DS - Prologue 1 to generate a discourse in Design that aimed to transcend mainstream professional and academic practice and one that confronted “binary framings of modern versus traditional, art/ design versus craft, global versus local”.

This year, Design Summit 2020 - Prologue 2, looks at pedagogy beyond academia and challenges the omnipotence of design within university and institutional patronage. One of the challenges for this pioneering initiative is inclusivity and balanced representation from different design fields and the multiple tiers that exist

Omair Faizullah, Ijlal Muzaffar, Rashid Rana, Zarminae Ansari and Shamoon Hali

within them. However, very open to partnerships with other educational institutions and design centers, the Prologues lead up to the first Design Summit - 2020, with the intention to strengthen the community and expand its meaning, domain and prerogative.

Design Summit 2020, and the forums that lead to it, also attempt to identify existing and emerging design scholarship and propose questions about design criteria and possibilities; what it is and what can it be.

183

TALK OF THE TOWN VENICE

The Pakistan Pavilion @ Venice Art Biennale

She Persists @Venice Art Biennale

The 58th la Biennale di Venezia, with the theme ‘May you live in interesting times’, marks the first time Pakistan has officially participated the world’s most prestigious art event with its own pavilion.

Artist Naiza Khan’s exhibition ‘Manora Field Notes’ is presented at the inaugural pavilion, curated by Zahra Khan of Foundation ArtDivvy and supported by the Pakistan National Council of the Arts. To celebrate this historic occasion, many of Pakistan’s leading artists and other personalities from the art community were present in Venice to lend their support.

“She Persists: 23 Female Voices of Rebellion, Celebration and Resilience” has recently opened at Palazzo Benzon at the 58th la Biennale di Venezia. The exhibition brings together twenty female artists, such as internationally acclaimed Pakistani artist Faiza Butt, with diverse practices, including an immersive art film featuring actress/ activist Rose McGowan. The unifying goal of the exhibition, co-curated by renowned art historian Sona Dutta, is to subvert the erasure of women’s achievements in art and society, and explore the commonality of the female experience. Truly internationalist in reach and universal in content, the exhibition brings together artists whose work embodies empowered female voices of rebellion, celebration and resilience.

Sona Dutta and Abdullah Qureshi

Asma Rashid Khan, Zahra Khan, Naiza Khan Jamal Shah

and

Rose McGowan and Faiza Butt

Aroosa Rana and Rashid Rana

Faiza Butt, Sona Dutta and Rose McGowan 184

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TALK OF THE TOWN CANNES

Wakhri @ Cannes Film Festival Director Iram Parveen Bilal has made Pakistan proud by being invited to the prestigious Cannes Film Festival for her upcoming project titled Wakhri. Bilal, the film’s director and Abid Merchant, its producer were invited by Cinefondation to participate in its Atelier, created to encourage the emergence of a new generation of international filmmakers.

Iram Parveen Bilal and Abid Merchant with Cinefondation General Manager Georges Goldenstern

Iram Parveen Bilal and Abid Merchant

A teaser of Wakhri

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THE BAG EDIT

THE BAG

EDIT

Ophidia mini textured leathertrimmed suede bucket bag

£ 875

The miniature handbag trend ruled the spring 2019 shows, and it seems that this accessory will take us all the way from summer to autumn this year. From crossbody clutches and belt bags to tiny bucket bags, we bring you the best styles to incorporate into your wardrobe this season

NANUSHKA

NANNACAY

Minee croc-effect faux leather belt bag

Bucket Bags

Fringed leather bucket bag

£ 150

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

Maia fringed crocheted belt bag

Marie Jane printed silk-trimmed woven bucket bag

£ 110

£ 305

TRADEMARK

GUCCI

£ 1,465

ULLA JOHNSON

Sophie mini leather bucket bag

£ 306

GUCCI

Printed textured-leather belt bag

£ 530

SEE BY CHLOÉ

Kriss embellished textured-leather belt bag

NANUSHKA

Lubo velvet belt bag

£ 260

£ 132

WANDLER

Anna small neon leather belt bag

£ 210

DANSE LENTE

Johnny mini leather bucket bag

£ 228

CHLOÉ

Roy mini leather bucket bag

£ 739

FENDI

Embellished embossed leather belt bag

£ 980

Belt Bags

ROSANTICA

Fenice beaded bucket bag

£ 325

MIU MIU

Convertible matelassé velvet belt bag

£ 492

188

189

THE BAG EDIT GUCCI

Dolce & Gabbana

£ 875

£ 1,050

Ophidia mini textured leather-trimmed printed coated-canvas shoulder bag

Devotion mini embellished satin shoulder bag

Crossbody Bags Nanushka

Tove mini croc-effect vegan leather shoulder bag

£ 162

CHLOÉ

Chloé C mini suede-trimmed leather shoulder bag

£ 800

BALENCIAGA

Ville XS AJ printed textured-leather shoulder bag

£ 745

VALENTINO

Valentino Garavani Candystud quilted leather shoulder bag

£ 1,800

JW ANDERSON

Nano Keyts leather shoulder bag

£ 275

190

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Alibi Mini Alligator Shoulder Bag

£ 3,372