DESTINATIONS - Issue 18 - Pakistan's Premier Travel and Lifestyle Magazine by DESTINATIONS

ISSUE #18

We Know What You Did This Summer A Sanctuary In The Wild

The Baithak in Shigar

The Stuff Of Legends

Sindhi Ajrak

Jawani Phir Nahi Ani 2

Our Exclusive All-Access From

Istanbul

contents.

ISSUE #18

Jawani Phir Nahi Ani 2 READY

TO STRIKE GOLD

On the cover

p. 52

p.28

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

Behindthe

Scenes

28 40 44 52 66

i n Istanbul

Jawani Phir Nahi Ani 2: Ready to Strike Gold Like a Boss – Nadeem Baig Three’s a Crowd Pleaser Behind the Scenes in Istanbul Ahmed Ali But: Laughing His Way to the Top

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 70

For an Extra Dose of Whimsy, Visit Cappadocia

Three’s a

p. 44

Crowd Pleaser

p. 94

Sanctuary in the

p. 140

NEAR & AFAR 22 24

Dream Destinations Destinations Desires

Meet the Patangeers

Wild

Meet the WANDERER p. 78

VISIONARY

Power Lunch with Isphanyar Bhandara

WE KNOW WHAT YOU DID THIS SUMMER

Finding

Paradise in KASHMIR

94 104 116

Finding Paradise in Kashmir Morocco Diaries From Russia with Love

AGENTS OF CHANGE

122

Untold Tales of Football

HERITAGE

126

Ajrak: The Stuff of Ancient Legends

ONE TO WATCH

132

Object of Desire with Arsalan A. Khan

TRAVEL GUIDE

140 150

A Sanctuary in the Wild Colombo: Unexpected and Exceptional

OBJECT of DESIRE p. 132

with

Arsalan A. Khan

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : MARIAM MUSHTAQ EXECUTIVE EDITOR : ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH DESIGN & LAYOUT : ZOHAIB AKHTAR OBAID-UL-MOHSIN WALI AKHTER SEEMAB UL HASSAN MEDIA SALES : NAEEM ULLAH CIRCULATION INCHARGE : SHAHRAIZ BILAL PUBLISHED BY : Daewoo Pakistan Express Bus Service Ltd. 231, Ferozepur Road, Kalma Chowk, Lahore, Pakistan +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : SHERIAR HASSAN DEPUTY GENERAL MANAGER, MIS (DAEWOO) : AMIR MEHMOOD LEGAL ADVISOR : BASIT WAHEED WATTOO CONTACT (SALES) : +92 334 423 4681 (NAEEM ULLAH) naeem.ullah@daewoo.com.pk +92 333 488 8203 (KHAWAJA AMMAR) khawaja.ammar@daewoo.com.pk DISTRIBUTORS: NATIONAL NEWS AGENCY PRINTERS : TOPICAL PRINTERS

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destinations.com.pk www.destinations.com.pk

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contributors Natasha Saigol Morocco Diaries p. 104 Natasha Saigol is a professionally qualified hairstylist and makeup artist from Vidal Sassoon & Wella Academy in London. She has also studied at Schwarzkopf Academy in Germany and the New York Fashion School. An avid traveller who loves visiting places remote and unusual for most, she’s proud to have got 24 counties under her belt on a Pakistani passport. A trekker and mountain lover, her biggest achievement so far is having trekked to the Everest base camp. She currently lives in Lahore and is the boss at her own salon. She is also a licensed pilot.

Behind the scenes in Istanbul Jaffer Hasan p. 52

Omair Alavi

Mette Hartmeyer

Madeeha Syed

Like a Boss Nadeem Baig p. 40

For an Extra Dose of Whimsy, Visit Cappadocia p. 70

Ajrak: The Stuff of Ancient Legends p. 126

Omair Alavi has been writing for different publications since the ‘90s. A bookworm and superhero fanatic (DC Universe bias declared!), he loves to watch, talk and explore films, be it Indian, English or Pakistani. He also follows cricket, hockey, and tennis religiously, and in that order. He can be contacted at omair78@gmail.com and tweets at @omair78.

Mette Hartmeyer Piracha’s educational background is in the field of governance and development, and she is now studying psychotherapy. She has lived in Pakistan for 4 years, where she still is exploring her real call. She is an occasional writer and an independent development consultant. Mette loves to explore, meet people and bring life to their stories.

Madeeha Syed is a journalist, an awardwinning documentary filmmaker and radio correspondent constantly looking for excuses to travel. She hates heights but loves mountains; is a long-distance cyclist and certified one-star CMAS diver. And by the end of most trips, a broke backpacker.

editors note from the

Summer is a great time to travel- of course weather being the great impetus! Everyone seems to be on the goseeing, exploring, discovering, absorbing different sights and sounds. This issue being the end-of-summer edition promises great adventures and even better stories.

We start with the cover as DESTINATIONS was exclusively invited to spend a week in Istanbul, Turkey with the cast and crew of JPNA2, the upcoming sequel to one of Pakistan’s biggest blockbusters, the 2015 release Jawani Phir Nahi Ani, from ARY Films and Six Sigma Productions. Our cover image featuring part of the lead cast, was shot on location in Turkey as we watched the action unfold live on the sets of this film’s first foreign spell. In a three-tier cover story which includes a photo essay by the brilliant Abdullah Haris, film critic, Omair Alavi talks to the director, Nadeem Baig, along with some of the top lead members of the star-studded cast; Humayun Saeed, Ahmed Ali Butt as well as writer and actor, Vasay Chaudhry. Also for an inside-look on what it was like to be there, flip through the pages for some never-seen-before images from and around the sets, captured expertly by the talented Jaffer Hasan. Also this season what reigned supreme over our senses was inarguably, football! With the FIFA World Cup 2018 taking place in Russia, we saw many friends fly to the land that was once tucked away from the universal gaze behind a firm iron curtain. This year, Russia broke those outdated stereotypes as it welcomed all and sundry with pleasing hospitality and warmth of spirit. Even off the field, the country was wholly enveloped in a massive carnival spirit.

ASMA CHISHTY

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Jahanzaib Shafique, Managing Director of JBnJaws Productions, was there to witness the festivities first-hand. Amtul Baweja and Fahad Tariq, founders of the travel videos digital enterprise, Patangeer, were also in Russia and shared some fun photos from Moscow. In these pages, meet the young couple as they move around with a camera in hand, a keen sense of exploration and a spirit of sharing with the world the best they see, hear and feel. Karachi’s Maria Mahesar takes a deeper look at the football culture in Pakistan. From the streets of Lyari to the factories of Sialkot, she describes the sport’s increasing popularity in a cricket-obsessed nation. National politicians, A-list Hollywood celebrities, Prince Charles and even the Pope, we have seen them all don the Ajrak - the native Sindhi shawl. A tradition that started somewhere during the times of the Moenjodaro civilisation, this unique item of apparel has truly stood the test of time. Who makes them and how? Our favourite explorer, Madeeha Syed makes a trip to the tiny village of Bhit Shah in interior Sindh to reveal the age-old techniques and timehonoured methods used, here in a tell-all. For those seeking tales of great travel and adventure, QYT’s Kashmir trip offers a unique peek into a land that looks closest to the promised paradise. Then there’s the Khanabadosh Baithak, a campsite and café located in the magical Shigar Valley which may just prompt you to pack your bags and head up north for that much needed break. Natasha Saigol’s Morocco diaries offer a charming look into the quaint culture of the famed African destination. And before we end, let us say, this issue carries our latest guide! Showcasing the new face of Sri Lanka’s capital, we have put together a Colombo city guide. With its fascinating mix of modern and colonial architecture, and a growing number of modern cafés, galleries and boutiques, the aim is to spot unlooked places with vibrant pops of color. So keep an open eye and an open mind - you’re sure to find what you’re looking for.

ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH EXECUTIVE EDITOR

MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR

NEAR & AFAR

Whether you’re craving a domestic getaway or eyeing a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels.

KARIMABAD, HUNZA Karimabad is the capital of Hunza Valley. The Hunza River flows near it while the mighty Rakaposhi and Hindu Kush mountains form its magnificent backdrop. This small town has a rich culture and vast history. It lies at an altitude of 8,200 feet above sea level and is undoubtedly one of the most scenic places in Pakistan.

How to get there:

What to do:

Karimabad is located to the west of Hunza River at a distance of 600km from Islamabad. It takes roughly 12 hours by road so travellers prefer to break their journey at Chilas or Gilgit.

The magical town of Karimabad has a lot to offer. Indulge in the rich culture of Gilgit-Baltistan by visiting the Baltit and Altit Forts. A tour guide is recommended. If you’re the outdoorsy sort, boating at Attabad Lake is a must-do. Café de Hunza offers the most delicious walnut cakes as well as other local delicacies such as chaap shuro and apricots. For a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains, visit Eagles Nest at sunset or sunrise. If you are in Hunza for an extended stay, plan day trips to Khunjerab and Passu.

Where to stay: Set on 2 hectares of lush gardens, the Hunza Serena Inn is a serene place with dramatic views of Mount Rakaposhi. It is 3km from the Karakoram Highway and a 14-minute walk from the 700-year-old Baltit Fort.

Antalya, Turkey

The perfect summer getaway, the resort city of Antalya lies at the cusp of Turkey’s southern Mediterranean region, known as the Turquoise Coast for its blue waters. With a yachtfilled harbour, pristine beaches, Roman ruins, a taste of traditional Turkish culture and luxury accommodations, it is no wonder that Antalya is the fourth most visited city in the world.

How to get there:

What to do:

Explore Kaleiçi, the beautifully preserved old town, dotted with Roman ruins, beautiful mosques and narrow streets lined with centuries-old restored Ottoman homes. Antalya Museum houses a vast collection dating to early antiquity. The popular Konyaalti Beach is a long, pebbly stretch, Located on the shores of while sandy Lara Beach is known the popular Lara beach, the for themed hotels and nearby Mardan Palace is palatial hotel Düden Waterfalls. Beyond the built in the spirit of the grand city lie ruins such as Aspendos’ Ottoman Sultans. Crafted for the preserved theater and Perge’s contemporary international elite, massive Greco-Roman stadium. the luxurious Mardan Palace is Popular outdoor activities you a chic resort which redefines the can plan to do are golfing, diving standards of Turkish hospitality. and hiking the 500km Lycian Through its innovative design Way footpath. features, extensive facilities and unparalleled service, it’s the new luxury playground for the jet set to explore. Flying Turkish Airlines is the best option. With a brief layover in Istanbul, you can reach Antalya in under 9 hours.

Where to stay:

NEAR & AFAR Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

1 Easy By Fatsos Fatsos has already earned itself a cult reputation amongst Karachi’s foodies for its sumptuous catering services as well as its sell-out stall at Karachi Eat. With the opening of its restaurant, quirkily named Easy, it’s established itself as the ultimate foodie heaven. While the donuts at Easy have been earning rave reviews, the savoury snacks – whether the burgers, bao buns or hotdogs – are just as delicious. With a bright and colourful warehouse-style interior, Easy is your goto happy place. Address: 31-C, Khayaban-e-Shahbaz Commercial, Lane 4, DHA, Karachi.

Misaq-e-Ishq @ Aga Khan Museum, Toronto Ali Sethi teams up with Harvard professor Dr. Ali S. Asani and Grammy-winning musician and producer Noah Georgeson to chart the evolution of the love metaphor in Indo-Muslim Sufi thought via the poetry of a range of languages, regions, and eras. This captivating music and poetry event pays tribute to Sufi poets and visionaries including Amir Khusrow, Faiz Ahmed Faiz, Shams Sabzwari, as well as to humanist and mystic Moinuddin Chishti, who preached devotion to humankind as a pathway to the divine. The performance will take place on August 19 th at the Aga Khan Museum in Toronto.

The Sassy Store Young, hip and affordable, The Sassy Stores is a chic online boutique that curates the very best of fashion. From clothes to jewellery and most recently shoes, the vibe of Sassy’s items is undeniably cool, without having to try too hard. Shop online at www.thesassystore.shop

5 Wild Thyme Living in Islamabad has its perks. Undoubtedly one of them is to be able to try authentic Hunza cuisine at Wild Thyme, a charming little restaurant tucked away in one of the capital’s most picturesque areas. Feast on delicacies such as Apricot Karahi and Hunza Lamb Pulao and round it off with delectable desserts such as Walnut Cakes and Pumpkin Halwa. Address: Shaheen Market, Street 14, E-7, Islamabad.

Sea Prayer The New York Times bestselling author of The Kite Runner, A Thousand Splendid Suns and And the Mountains Echoed, Khaled Hosseini is back with yet another captivating and heart wrenching tale, Sea Prayer. Based on the current refugee crisis, the illustrated literary fiction is written as a letter from a father to his son. The book is expected to be launched at the end of August, marking the third death anniversary of Syrian refugee child, Alan Kurdi. “Sea Prayer is an attempt to pay tribute to the millions of families, like Alan Kurdi’s, who have been splintered and forced from home by war and persecution,” Hosseini has said. 25

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

Jawani Phir Nahi Ani 2 READY

TO STRIKE GOLD Released in 2015, the first installment of ARY Films and Six Sigma Production’s Jawani Phir Nahin Ani broke office records and won over audiences and critics alike for being an out and out entertainer. Come August, the muchawaited sequel, Jawani Phir Nahin Ani 2, will be hitting cinema screens across the country, all set to recreate the magic of its predecessor. With an ensemble cast that sees Humayun Saeed, Ahmed Ali Butt, Vasay Chaudhry, Sarwat Gilani and Uzma Khan reprising their roles and joining hands with Fahad Mustafa, Mawra Hocane and Kubra Khan, under the expert direction of Nadeem Baig, Vasay Chaudhry’s trademark humour steering the script and gorgeous foreign locations, JPNA 2 has the makings of yet another blockbuster. DESTINATIONS was exclusively invited to spend a week in Istanbul, Turkey with the cast and crew, and from the best seats in the house, we watched the action unfold as the film’s first foreign spell got underway. In this special segment, we bring you exclusive images from the set of JPNA 2 shot by two of the country’s leading photographers, Abdullah Haris and Jaffer Hasan, as well as in-depth conversations with the director and the actors by renowned film critic Omair Alavi. 28

Photography: Abdullah Haris Styling: Haiya Bokhari 29

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

like a

BOSS Nadeem Baig By Omair Alavi

As the man who has directed two of Pakistan’s biggest cinematic hits in recent times, Nadeem Baig might like to stay behind the camera rather than in front of it but his celebrity status within the industry is indisputable. With over two decades of experience working in television, Baig struck gold with his very first cinematic venture, ARY’s Jawani Phir Nahi Ani in 2015. Under his direction, the film boasted of slick production values, gorgeous locales, stylised cinematography and intelligent comedy. Its record as the highest grossing Pakistani film was broken only by Baig’s second venture, Punjab Nahin Jaungi, in 2017. His latest project is the much-awaited sequel to JPNA and it promises to be bigger and better, featuring an ensemble cast of the country’s top stars and shot in multiple countries including the United Arab Emirates, Turkey, and Pakistan. In an exclusive interview with Omair Alavi, Nadeem Baig discusses what’s in store for cinemagoers this Eid when JPNA 2 hits the screens. Photography: Abdullah Haris

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

fter directing the most successful Pakistani flick ever (Punjab Nahi Jaungi), why did you decide to go back to Jawani Phir Nahi Ani with a sequel, instead of coming up with something new? You have no idea – despite being the director of the superhit Punjab Nahi Jaungi, the question I was asked most frequently was, ‘will you make a sequel to Jawani Phir Nahi Ani?’ (laughs). We decided to go for a sequel when we had a story that was good enough for a sequel; we did manage to get a few upgrades here and there. Of course, it was a decision borne out of passion to see the boys on screen again and trust me, the audience will have a field day in theatres.

Hamza Ali Abbasi was an integral part of your Jawani team but he has been replaced with Fahad Mustafa this time around. Was that a difficult decision to make? Hamza Ali Abbasi is a wonderful actor but he was busy in as many as two films – Parwaaz Hai Junoon and Maula Jutt – while we were planning JPNA 2. It was a difficult decision and we missed Hamza, but going with Fahad was a great experience. Not only does he have a huge role in the film, his fans will have lots of fun watching him become part of the most successful film franchise in Pakistan. Shot internationally, the movie seems to have spared no expense. What made you go so grand? The script and the face of the sequel demanded the scale but it was not a forced effort. If it’s looking grand then it’s a good thing because that’s the demand of the story.

Why do you collaborate with Humayun Saeed when you have so many options for a leading man? Directors are known to have their favourite actors, be it in Hollywood, Bollywood or Pakistan. Pervez Malik had Waheed Murad in the early part of his career whereas he preferred Nadeem sahab later on. Why I work with Humayun is because, in my opinion, he is a proper film actor and has great potential. He brings value to the screen and I like to see that in my films.

Singh, who gladly accepted it. As for Chintu ji, he is still in touch with us and has watched both Jawani Phir Nahi Ani and Punjab Nahi Jaungi; his wife Neetu Singh is a huge Humayun Saeed fan and we were pleasantly surprised when she spoke to us about Dillagi and other TV plays, praising our work.

This is your third project with Vasay Chaudhry if you count the telefilm Abhi Tu Main Jawaan Hoon… how will you rate working with this witty actor/writer? Working with Vasay is always great, especially because he takes you on a journey through the film’s story; he has done the same thing here and people will like both his acting as well as writing which is on a different scale altogether.

And how did you get hold of Shehzad Ali Khan of Andaz Apna Apna fame? It was the other way around actually – Shehzad Ali Khan got a hold of us! He had seen both Jawani Phir Nahi Ani and Punjab Nahi Jaungi and got in touch with us to congratulate Humayun and me for a job well done. We saw this as an opportunity and offered the role he is playing in the film to him and he immediately said yes. It was a great experience working with him and I am sure that the audience will love his character as well.

How true is the fact that Bollywood legend Rishi Kapoor was interested in working in JPNA 2? I think it’s common knowledge that we offered the role of Kubra Khan’s father to Rishi Kapoor before the Uri incident and he was very excited about it. The only reason that he opted out of the movie was that he wanted us to release the film in India through an Indian distributor and that isn’t possible considering the relations between the two countries. We then offered the role to another Bollywood star, Kanwaljit

JPNA 2 goes head to head with two other films releasing this Eid (Load Wedding and Parwaaz Hai Junoon), and those have actors with whom you have worked before. What do you have to say about the competition? I hope that all 3 films manage to do well – Hamza and Fahad are dear friends and their success is my success. I sincerely feel that we should discuss releasing films well in advance so that everyone gets a fair chance to release a film, any time of the year.

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

Three’s a

Crowd Pleaser By Omair Alavi

Ahmad Ali Butt, Vasay Chaudhry, and Humayun Saeed were uncontrollably hilarious in Jawani Phir Nahi Ani, breaking box office records in 2015, and they are all set to resume their run with the sequel three years on. The trio will be back to their mischievous best when they are joined by Fahad Mustafa in ARY Films’ much-awaited JPNA 2, produced by Humayun Saeed and written by Vasay Chaudhry out this Eid-ul Azha. Omair Alavi sits down with the three ‘boys’ for a conversation that started with a smile and ended with a laugh. Excerpts:

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

Photo by Jaffer Hasan 46

How different is JPNA 2 from the first part? Humayun Saeed: I will answer that since I am the producer of the franchise (smiles). The sequel to JPNA is going to be much bigger than the original film because we have a direction here. The previous one was a situational comedy where things revolved around the 4 friends whereas this one is a proper romantic comedy where things revolve around two nations. Since Nadeem and I were making a return to comedy after doing Punjab Nahi Jaungi, we wanted to add a new dimension to the film and instead of it being a mindless flick, we have given it a proper story. Vasay Chaudhry: I think I should have answered that as I am the writer of the franchise. JPNA 2 is different from the first part in terms of the motivation for the story. In the previous one, three married friends were taken to Thailand by their fourth â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;bachelorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; friend whereas this time the motivation is not to spend some time away from their families. You have to watch the film to know what the motivation is! Ahmad Ali Butt: I was part of two of the most successful Pakistani flicks, I should have answered that first! It is not that much different if you ask me since it takes place three years after the events of the first film. Yes, it is much bigger than JPNA 1, has a bigger cast, better locations, the scale is grand and people will love the surroundings we have shot at! 47

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

Photo by Abdullah Haris 48

It seems most of the film has been shot abroad; what made you go grand this time? HS: We have shot the film in three countries including Turkey, United Arab Emirates and Pakistan but trust me, we didn’t do it to appear grand but because that was the requirement of the story. Yes, it was expensive to take the crew to so many different places but had more countries been part of the story, we would have gone there as well.

The Indo-Pak angle is prominent in the trailer; what made you come up with that? VC: When we were assembling the story, I thought we should come up with something that is difficult and that’s when we stumbled on the Indo-Pakistan angle. In the initial stages, we even planned to shoot the film in India but that couldn’t happen given the political scenario of the last 2 years. Hence, the idea we came up with turned out to be much, much bigger than the last one and on the whole, it will come out as something that hasn’t been done before at this level.

Kubra Khan, who plays your love interest, is making a comeback to films after 5 years; how was the experience of working with the wild side of the Sang-e-Mar Mar girl? HS: In the last couple of years, Kubra Khan has emerged as one of the better actresses in our TV industry and the kind of role we had in JPNA 2, she seemed the perfect choice for it. It was good to work with this untapped side of Kubra that filled the requirement of a foreigneducated girl who enjoys her life to the fullest. She is growing into a prominent actress and the role in JPNA 2 will turn out to be a benchmark for others to follow.

Hamza was an integral part of the first film but you seemed to we were mentally prepared that Ahmed, have lost weight and gotten clean-shaven How was it acting opposite he wasn’ t goi n g to be the part during the film; was it the Fahad Mustafa in place of requirement of the role Hamza Ali Abbasi? or just a coincidence? of the second one. As for AAB: HS: I have known Fahad for When we did the a long time and he is a great first JPNA, the director Fahad Mustafa, he brings Nadeem Baig wanted me to actor and friend. He is one of those people who listen to the look heavy as it was what the producer and is understanding, a di f ferent element. role demanded. However, before which is a quality not many actors possess. He always had the potential to do well in films and after Na Maloom Afraad, he has become a star that we all admire. He also has a huge fan following due to his game show and I am hopeful that people will love his acting in the film as well.

we began shooting for the sequel, we had decided that Shafiq Ahmed will be a fitter person this time around and for that, I trained hard and lost weight to get in shape. As for the clean-shaved sequence, that was done because it was the requirement of the character and you will have to see the film to know why!

AAB: Hamza was an integral part of the first film but we were mentally prepared that he wasn’t going to be the part of the second one. As for Fahad Mustafa, he brings a different element onto the screen. Both have their own flavours so yes, all of us had fun working with Fahad this time around. Vasay (the writer) knows which actor he wants to cast in a certain role and I am sure that when the film is released, people will love Fahad Mustafa’s character. Vasay, you’ve written the film as well as acted in it – doesn’t that take a toll? VC: I have been doing that for some time now although I find the writing part very difficult and the acting part, fun. This time, it was extra difficult for some reason and took a lot of time as a writer despite it being my third film with Humayun (after Main Hoon Shahid Afridi and Jawani Phir Nahi Ani). 49

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

Photo by Jaffer Hasan 50

There are two other films releasing on Eid, one starring Fahad Mustafa and the other Hamza Ali Abbasi; what do you have to say about the competition? HS: It is a good thing that three Pakistani films will be released this Eid but trust me, it would have been better had the third film been a small banner film instead of Parwaaz Hai Junoon. Ours is a developing industry that will not be able to do justice to as many as 3 big banner films. Although it’s not a race where one film will win and the other two won’t, if you think logically, we have made it into a race ourselves. We were the first ones to announce the date last year after which Nabeel-Fizza came out with the same release date for Load Wedding. Two films can do good business in our small market but the entry of the third one is too much as it will not only damage the other films’ business but also hit their own. On one hand, I pray that all three films do maximum business whereas, on the other, I wish our filmmakers develop a business sense so that they know how to maximize profits.

What are your expectations from the sequel to a film that managed to break records internationally? HS: I am hopeful that the audience that showered us with love and praise after JPNA and PNJ will be entertained this time as well. I would take this chance to clarify one thing though – we have not taken Mehwish Hayat, Sohai Ali Abro, Javed Sheikh or Ismail Tara in the sequel deliberately because the story continues from the first part and they couldn’t feature in the ‘three years later’ scenario. The ‘boys’ play an integral part in the plot, hence they are retained (except for Hamza Ali Abbasi), with the inclusion of Fahad Mustafa; I hope it raises the bar and smashes records like the last film.

If the audience gets entertained, my work is done although people (read bloggers and critics) want every film to have a message for some reason.

VC: The competition is always there and I have never been afraid of that; in terms of economics it will be a big blow to the industry because it has the capacity of just two films. We simply don’t have the market for a third big-budget film and it would have been better had it been released sometime later so all three could have benefitted.

AAB: To release 3 major films on Eid is a stupid decision, simple; you can’t release three of the year’s biggest films on one day as it gives the impression of insecurity to the audience both at home and abroad. But then, everyone wants to make as much money as possible during the long weekend of Eid. JPNA 2 and Load Wedding were always there as Eid-ul Azha releases and it would have been great had it stayed that way.

VC: I hope it entertains people, makes them laugh and have a good time. If the audience gets entertained, my work is done although people (read bloggers and critics) want every film to have a message for some reason. For me, the aim is to come up with something that the audience remembers rather than preaching and it will be a win-win for me if they exit the theatre laughing their hearts out!

AAB: When I did my first film Jawani Phir Nahi Ani, I had no idea that it will go on to do so well and same was the case with Punjab Nahi Jaungi, which did even better. When you accept a script, you want it to be a good one that entertains the audience and recovers the money that has been put into making it. This time everyone is excited about the film including the cast and the crew because this film comes after two huge hits from the same team. I am actually hoping that it will break records as it has better music, better action, better sequences and better production values than the previous one.

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

Behindthe

Scenes in

Istanbul By Jaffer Hasan

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2

Ahmed Ali Butt:

LAUGHING HIS WAY TO THE TOP Creativity runs in Ahmed Ali Butt’s blood – he is, after all, the grandson of the legendary Madam Noor Jehan and the son of the famed Zille Huma. Over the years, Ahmed has carved a unique identity for himself – as a rapper/musician who once helmed the popular band Entity Paradigm, a comic whose humour breathes life into award ceremonies and events and more recently, as an actor who can deliver back-to-back hits at the box office. A man who wears many hats and wears them exceptionally well, he is surprisingly humble and self-deprecating in real life. In an exclusive tête-à-tête with DESTINATIONS, Ahmed Ali Butt reveals why he’s looking forward to his next release, JPNA 2, what makes him a ‘Selfie King’, and who his real-life heroes are (HINT: He’s married to her).

Photo by Jaffer Hasan

DESTINATIONS X JPNA2 Actor, singer, host... who is Ahmed Ali Butt? To be honest I’m still trying to find that out myself. All I know is that I am a man who loves more than one form of creative expression. Hence, I get to do so much with so many creative and inspiring people. How did you venture into the world of entertainment? I always knew that I would do something creative in my life and from a very young age, I was into dramatics and music. My family was a major influence, as the arts were a part of my daily life growing up. My first love was theatre since school days and then in college I took it to a more professional level by forming my own theatre company and my band went along with it. Tell us about your experience working in some Pakistan’s biggest blockbusters of recent times, namely Jawani Phir Nahin Ani and Punjab Nahin Jaungi. What should your fans expect from the upcoming JPNA 2? To be honest we didn’t know Jawani Phir Nahi Ani would be this BIG. We went out to make a fun entertainer and hoped that it would do good business. Allah blessed us immensely and both JPNA and Punjab Nahin Jaungi became blockbusters. It’s a very challenging and slow process to make a film and you really need to be passionate about your work which all of us are. JPNA 2 will be everything that an Eid film should be – which is a mega family entertainer and more. All I can say is that you have seen nothing yet!

How would you define your style? My style is as impulsive as my performance. My wife always says, “you’re a doer… not a thinker” – I guess she is right. I love to do things which click to me without thinking too much about it. If I feel something is creative and inspirational, I jump in. If you meant my style in clothes that would be casual smart. I love t-shirts and jeans, and my wife has brought the ‘smart’ element in my life. So yeah, jackets and nice shirts too. You’re known to be a multitalented star but do you have any secret talent that we don’t know? Yes! I do have a secret talent and why would I tell you what it is? (laughs) Amongst the many talents for which you are known, you have also earned the title of ‘Selfie King.’ What is the story behind your love for selfies? Haha! Yeah, I didn’t plan on that. It just happened and I do take the best selfies no doubt! But my love for that (selfies) is because I think it’s the best way to document your life. I meet famous and creative people all the time, and I am blessed to work with them, so why not document my experiences through a selfie?! We live in a digital age where everything is online, yet I try to keep my work life public and my family life private.

I am a man who loves more than one form of creative expression.

We’ve learned that you’ve collaborated with Arif Lohar for the JPNA 2 title track. Tell us about the experience. Working with Arif Lohar bhai was a dream come true and yet a big challenge also. After I finished the first JPNA title track, I wanted to do something in Punjabi rap and I always knew I wanted to work with Arif Lohar bhai. Even back in my EP days, I wanted to collaborate with him but it never happened. This time around it took me almost 6 months to get him to the studios as both of us were busy in other projects. Luckily he loved the track and we ended up doing it together. He is a massive singer with a huge voice and the song needed his special touch. 68

What does an average day in the life of Ahmed Ali Butt look like? Tell us about yourself as a husband and father to Azaan Ali Butt? My average days are the most exciting ones as I am with my son and he is a full-time job. My wife is the real hero of this story as she holds down the fort when I’m working or travelling. So whenever I am home I try to be as involved as possible. Being a wife to an actor is not an easy job and I am blessed as Fatima really supports me in every way. I always take her advice in my work and even if I don’t like it at times, she breaks it down for me. Like I say to her, she is raising two kids at the same time. So yes, she is the real wonder woman of my life! What is in the pipeline for Ahmed Ali Butt? Where do we see you next? After hosting the Hum Awards in Canada and getting done with JPNA 2 promotions, I start work on my next film with Asim Raza and I am looking forward to that! I can’t say much about it at the moment but you will know more soon. Also I am working on making my own film, which I start next year.

Rapid Fire with Ahmed Ali Butt

Favourite co-star? Humayun Saeed! This (JPNA 2) will be our third film together. Jawani Phir Nahi Ani or Punjab Nahi Jaungi, the film you enjoyed the most? Jawani Phir Nahi Ani as it was my first film so it will always hold a special place in my life. Where would you go if you were invisible? In the editing room and scare the hell out of Nadeem Baig. What fashion trend do you just not get? Padded shoulders and bad hair cuts. Any pet peeves? Body odour. Any guilty pleasure? Ice cream. What is the last thing you Googled? The release date for The Rock’s wireless headphones.

What are you currently watching on Netflix? Rick and Morty. If you were stranded on a tropical island, what two things would you want with you? A prayer mat and my laptop. If you where running for public office what would your campaign slogan be? Nahi kerna ab mulk ko kharaab… Vote for Butt Saab Vote for Butt Saab What compliment(s) do people give you the most? “Aap screen per tu bohot funny hain but real life main itnay serious kyun hain?” What word would you add to the dictionary if you could; what would it mean? Shapoooka! (which signifies that a person deserves a compliment). Coffee or tea? Both, depending on what time it is.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

For an extra dose of whimsy, visit

Cappadocia By Mette Hartmeyer

Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a romantic getaway or an awe-inspiring trip complete with air balloon rides and waking up in a 1000-year-old cave, Cappadocia is the ideal destination for you (and everyone you know)! Travel enthusiast Mette Hartmeyer visits this wondrous Turkish region and lists some of the top reasons why one should book a trip there sooner than later, complete with details on room, board and ticket pricing.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

How to get there: Book a flight from the new Sabiha Gรถkรงen airport in Istanbul to Nevsehir to tour around Cappodocia. To find the cheapest ticket prices, check websites such as www.expedia.com. A round-trip ticket is about PKR 65,000/USD 500 (foreign exchange rate as of July 22, 2018 is PKR 130 to USD 1). I would recommend you spend two to three nights of your Turkey trip in Cappadocia.

HERE ARE SOME REASONS WHY EVERYONE SHOULD GO AND SEE THIS PLACE.

1For some romance: Live in a Cave Cappadocia is an architectural marvel where all over the city, you find hotel and guest houses carved into caves. You can book your hotel on hotels.com and even find packages which include a full adventure. Make sure that the hotel provides shuttle bus transportation from the airport as it is a good 30-40 minutes drive, calculate additional PKR 3,000/USD 25 for return shuttle bus tickets. My friend and I stayed at the Dervish Cave House in Nevsehir, Turkey. The staff was very helpful in recommending places to visit, booking the balloon ride and suggesting economical bus tours. It is always more fun when we walk on our own and take the local bus rather than going for a tourist package. Just so you know, rooms here start from PKR 7,000/USD 55 per night.

Take an Air-Balloon Ride This ride is certainly a requiem for a dream. With panoramic views of the skyline dotted with hot air balloons, how can one resist and not book a ride. Yes it is a little pricey but let me tell you, it provides the perfect backdrop for the ultimate romance for any couple who wants to go on a honeymoon or second honeymoon. You can book a trip through most of the hotels or online. Be aware of peak seasons, as it might be difficult to book last-minute during their annual air balloon festival.

You get the best tours in the morning, where take off is at 5.30 am before sunrise, which you will see from the balloon. You will be picked up in a shuttle an hour and a half before the scheduled time from your hotel. For all practical purposes, you are to sign insurance papers before continuing to the balloon. The tour takes approximately 3 hours, of which 60-75 minutes are scenic flight time. It is a once in a lifetime experience. Bring your camera and enjoy the journey. The price includes breakfast and is approximately PKR 32,000/USD 250 per person.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

2For ancient history:

Go see Göreme Open Air Museum, a UNESCO-listed World Heritage site The lonelyplanet.com calls it “an essential stop on any Cappadocian itinerary (which) deserves a twohour visit.” Initially what started as an important Byzantine monastic settlement, with its splendid cluster of historic artistry of rock-cut churches and monasteries, later became a pilgrimage site. The entrance fee is approximately PKR 660/USD 5. Note that the museum’s highlight – the Karanlık Kilise – has an additional PKR 250/USD 2 entrance fee. When you exit the open air museum, don’t forget to cross the road to visit the Tokalı Kilise, 50m down the hill towards Göreme and covered by the same ticket. This is one of Göreme’s biggest and finest churches. What is most interesting here is that with an underground chapel, the fabulous, recently restored frescoes painted in a narrative cycle describing the life of Jesus Christ, date back to the 10th century!

DerinKuyu Underground City Just when you thought you had seen all the wonders this place has to offer, you come across the underground cities. There are so many of them here at Cappadocia that no one truly knows the exact number. The biggest and deepest is Derinkuyu. It has eight floors and extends at a depth of approximately 85m. Back in the day, each floor could be closed off separately with large stone doors. The large 55m ventilation shaft appears to have been used as a well. The shaft also provided water to both the villagers above and, if the outside world was not accessible, to those in hiding. First built by the Phrygians, an Indo-European people, around the 8th-7th century BC, the city could accommodate between 20,000 and had all the usual amenities such as wine and oil presses, stables, cellars, storage rooms and chapels. The entrance fee to the Derinkuyu underground city is PKR 380/USD 3. In the summer season, it is open from 8am to 7pm and during the winter, it opens at 8am and closes at 5pm. Consider joining a guided tour, as we attempted without and it’s pretty scary down there. You might find it useful with extra light from your mobile, so charge your phone.

Goreme started as a Byzantine monastic settlement, with its splendid cluster of historic artistry of rock-cut churches and monasteries.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

3To relax and spoil yourselves Turkish Spa

Cappadocia still has a few long-standing Turkish hamams. The Elis Hamam has up-todate, modern services for a bathhouse whose stones are actually 400 years old. The hamam is a restored facility, and when you take a dip, remember that you will be relaxing in a place where Hittite, Roman, Byzantine, Selcuk, and the Ottoman have all reigned. Personally, I greatly enjoyed the package deal which included a face mask, dry sauna, hamam with kese (peeler) and köpüklu masaj (bubble massage), steam sauna, and cool jacuzzi, which lasted a tantalizing 90 minutes for PKR 1500/USD 12. The Damat İbrahim Paşa Hamamı is open 7 days a week from 6am to 10pm, and every Saturday, from 10am to 4pm it is a ladies-only time with women masseurs. Pricing is great at PKR 650/ USD 5 which includes the entrance fee, a scrub and a bubble massage.

4Action for the Explorers ATV Adventures

Cappadocia is full of surprises – and I mean, good ones! For a little sense of motor independence, you could hire to drive a motor crosser. Take a quad safari tour and explore the region’s off-thebeaten-track spectacular rock-cut valleys. For those with a spirit of adventure, a little escapade on a sturdy ATV may just be what the doctor advised. It may just end up being the most fun thing you did this holiday. All around Göreme and Cappadocia you will find people selling you different tours and you can even rent the vehicles on an hourly basis, if you just want to go on your own. The prices start from PKR 5,250/USD 40 for a 2-hour tour, including V.A.T and fuel. It is something everyone in the family would enjoy doing and you can head off to discover fairy chimneys, valleys and a lot of old cave churches in the Cappadocia region. So whether you go for a taste of culture, or to take a flight of fancy in a hot air balloon or just to traverse through otherwordly rock kingdoms, go for an extra dose of whimsy. Cappadocia is full of fascination for the seeing eye. Don’t miss it!

Cappadocia

ATV destinations Zemi Valley Girls Monastery Rose Valley Cavusin (off-road) Red Valley Swords Valley Red Valley Babatcik Valley Love Valley Aydin Kiragi Gorceli Valley Iceri Dere Valley Uzengi Valley Ortahisar Uchisar Castle

WANDERER

Meet the In a chance encounter, we met with two young travel enthusiasts, Amtul Baweja and Fahad Tariq of Patangeer. Founders of the travel videos digital enterprise, they move around cities, towns, villages and hamlets with a camera, a sense of exploration and a spirit of sharing with the world the best they see, hear and feel. Here are selected excerpts of our exchange with them on what they do plus the how and why of it.

WANDERER

meet

Fahad

I was in America for the last 5 years â&#x20AC;&#x201C; studying Marketing and working as an Area Sales Manager. My job led me to travel a lot. I was constantly on the road in a new city almost every other day, which inspired me to start documenting my experiences on a GoPro. One day I decided I wanted to conquer my fear of heights. I jumped off a 70 ft cliff into a lake and 2 days later went for a 350 ft bungee jump. After that, I became obsessed with learning how to capture my adventures on camera. I spent hours every day learning how to edit and use a camera from lessons on YouTube. Everything I have learnt, from how to shoot to editing and colour grading our footage, has been self-taught.

meet

Amtul

Having travelled to 23 countries, you can probably say I am a travel junkie. I get it from my dad. He used to travel a lot and always pushed me to go out and explore. It was 2012 when I took my first solo trip, to the USA, and that too, forced by my dad! I already had the travel bug in me, but after this the SOLO travel bug hit me hard! I went on to explore more places on my own â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Baku, Turkey, Dubai, London and Bali being some of them. I used to study at LUMS and that is where I got to explore Pakistan, especially the northern areas, and became hooked onto the whole idea of camping, hiking and road-tripping. My work also provided me the opportunity to travel solo and I went to places I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have ever gone on my own, like Multan, Muzaffarabad, Peshawar (my favourite experience), Sukkur, Khairpur, and other areas of interior Sindh and Punjab. Before I even knew what blogging was, I started writing about my travels and documenting my trips through pictures and articles.

WANDERER

ow! So what do you guys do professionally to sustain the frequent travels? And what are your hobbies?

Fahad: While travelling is great fun, it is something we have to be able to sustain financially. I work at a youth marketing company called Qube as a Content Strategy Manager.

Amtul: I worked at a non-for-profit organization called Aman Foundation for almost four years in addition to some stints in the field of theatre and performance arts. Ten months ago, I quit and decided to do something of my own! Currently, I am working in the social development sector specializing in the area of life skill trainings and personal development workshops for the youth and women. I am also extremely active in theatre and performance arts as I cross function as an actorturned-director, producer, improviser, comedian, and an educator. I am a comedian and improviser at Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first and only all-girls comedy troupe called the Khawatoons. I am one of the lucky few who have actually managed to shape all my hobbies into a career.

You guys work in two very different sectors. How did Patangeer “happen” so to speak? Amtul: Patangeer came about when we realized our mutual love for travel. But it is not just the love of travel alone that gave us the push; it was also the fact that we both were documenting our travels. So we combined our skills and passions and formed Patangeer. For example, for me, coming from a social development and performance arts background, I always knew that eventually I would start something of my own which would involve what I do – a social cause which oddly enough, is also my impetus for being in front of an audience. Fahad, with his strong sales and marketing background, knew that he also had the entrepreneurial spirit in him. Fahad: Both of us actually met in high school and were friends ever since. We both were travelling separately and blogging, v-logging and documenting our own single journeys. It was not until 2016, on one of Amtul’s visits to USA, that we started dating! And not until the next year (2017) that we got engaged and finally took our first trip together. We did a three-week cross-country road trip in America all the way from the east coast to the west coast, camping along the way. We hit as many major national parks in America as we could and crossed more than 12 states, all the while documenting this gargantuan trip.

“I am one of the lucky few who have actually managed to shape all my hobbies into a career”. - Amtul 83

WANDERER That is when the idea hit us – why not showcase our country in the same way? Pakistan is full of diverse and beautiful landscape. We decided to establish our own platform where we would exhibit our home country in the way we see and perceive it. So from then on, we started saving up for our equipment. Both of us worked multiple jobs to save enough to be able to buy all the shooting gear we needed to start Patangeer. Side by side, we also learnt how to shoot, edit, and colour grade and hence, after a year of preparation and planning, we were finally able to launch our project in 2018. What does Patangeer do? And how? The purpose of Patangeer is to bridge the gap between Pakistan and the rest of the world by creating a positive image of the country through our travel videos. We want the world to see the beauty of our largely unseen country, therefore we travel locally and produce good quality content in an attempt to boost tourism. We want to galvanize a constructive movement for Pakistani tourism because we truly feel patriotic about our country’s natural heritage. At the same time, we also see ourselves as the ambassadors of Pakistan. Therefore, we also travel globally carrying our national identity as proof as we move, so that the world can see that we embrace different cultures openheartedly! Our platform of choice for our photo and video documentation is social media, because we want our content to inspire the millennials. The millennials, as a generation, consume more social media than traditional electronic media. It is here that content has the potential to become viral, reach maximum audience, start conversations and basically build a community. All in all, the idea is a Pakistani travel couple making the coolest travel videos. And here, we want to remind people that this story isn’t about us but is about showcasing Pakistan. Talking about showcasing Pakistan, your video on Hunza was great fun to watch. Tell us about it. 84

Our inspiration for the Hunza video was a culmination of 2 years of sheer determination. Those 3 minutes have a lot of hard work and dedication packed behind them. Leading up to this project we have been working two jobs each and saving up money to buy our gear and improving our editing just so that we would be ready when we got to capture Pakistan’s vast mountain ranges, jaw dropping sceneries and diverse culture. We also saw Patangeer videos documenting travel in the United States. How did that happen? Amtul: Actually that is how it all started. We started documenting our very first travel adventure together from Colorado, the Rocky Mountain state. It was Fahad’s dream as a child to just sit in a car and drive across a country and camp in national parks. So when he was graduating he told me, “the moment I do the walk, I will jump in the car and we will make this trip happen.” It was basically his goodbye to the USA for the amazing five years it had given him. And that is exactly what we did! Fahad: Amtul had been road-tripping and camping across the northern areas of Pakistan during her four years at LUMS, so she was always ready for adventures. For the trip, she flew to Chicago and we started our journey from there, driving across 11 states and camping in 7 national parks all the way to San Diego. So why the name Patangeer? What does it mean? “Patangeer” is a word we coined together one fine day while sitting on the road-side, reflecting and sipping on chai [tea]. It means wandering kites. And just like a kite flows in the direction of the wind, Patangeer was formed to represent our spirit of adventure, our love of travel and most importantly interacting and learning from new cultures. Apart from being representative of the Pakistani culture and language, patangs [kites] also symbolize freedom and liberty. They are colourful, they fly high and have no limit as to how far they can go. We hope to emulate this spirit by travelling far and wide. There are many many miles to go, and that’s the promise we must keep.

. .just like a kite flows in the direction of the wind, Patangeer was formed to represent our spirit of adventure (and) our love for travel..

WANDERER

The purpose of Patangeer is to bridge the gap between Pakistan and the rest of the world by creating a positive image of the country.

VISIONARY

Power Lunch

Presenting the corporate moguls, key descision makers and powerful visionaries who impact Pakistan’s business landscape.

with

ISPHANYAR BHANDARA CEO, Murree Brewery

Established in 1860, Murree Brewery has the distinction of being one of Asia’s first modern breweries and the oldest continuing industrial enterprise in Pakistan. Founded by English engineer and paleontologist Sir Proby Cautley and General William Olpherts of the British India Army, the company was acquired by the Bhandara family at the time of partition. For three generations, the Bhandaras have helmed one of the country’s most successful businesses and as present CEO, Isphanyar Bhandara continues to further his family’s legacy of excellence built over seven decades. In this exclusive conversation with DESTINATIONS, the dynamic young CEO shares his vision.

VISIONARY

urree Brewery is one of the oldest companies of the subcontinent. Can you tell us about its illustrious history? Murree Brewery is one of the oldest public companies of the sub-continent. Its shares were traded on the Calcutta Stock Exchange as early as 1902, and it is now the oldest continuing industrial enterprise of Pakistan. It was set up in 1860 in Gohra Gali, Murree by the British during the time of the Raj to cater to the needs of the British troops stationed in present-day Pakistan. It continued to operate at Gohra Gali from 1860 to about 1890. Then it was shifted to Rawalpindi, to its present location. It came into our family in 1947 when my grandfather bought over the majority shares from the British at the time of partition. He opted to stay on the Pakistan side. I am the third generation of the Bhandara family running the company.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;We cherish our past. We are the industry leaders in the present and accept challenges of the future.â&#x20AC;?

When were you appointed CEO? I joined the family business in 1997, initially working part-time as I was doing my MBA from the School of Business and Commerce, Islamabad. I joined the Board of Directors in 1998 and worked at various departments/positions within the company, working my way up from the bottom, to learn the ins and outs of business. I worked as a lathe machine operator, assistant storekeeper, laboratory assistant, sales officer, deputy general manager for Tops Food & Beverage and director of group procurement. In June 2005, I became Executive Director and was appointed the Chief Executive Officer of the Murree Brewery Group of Companies after the demise of my father in June 2008. What are the major products of the company? The traditional activities of the company are brewing and distilling of fine liquors and beers. But over time it has increased its product line and capacity. Tops Food & Beverages (1969) processes fruits and markets fruit juices and allied food products. Murree Glass, the glass container division of the company established in 1974, manufactures glass containers of all types for the company and other food and beverage producers. Murree Sparkletts was set up in 2011 and produces premium drinking water. Our malt drinks are made from pure malt, wheat and barley, hence much higher in nutritional value than traditional juice drinks that are artificially processed. We have quality ISO 9000s, environmental ISO 9000s and many other certifications for our various divisions. We also have halal certifications for our non-alcoholic products. We comply with all rules and regulations of health and quality and contribute over Rs. 4 billion to the national exchequer. We cherish our past. We are the industry leaders in the present and accept challenges of the future.

What are some of challenges that you face in the running of your business? Our biggest threat or challenge comes from the non-organized sector, in which there are a large number of people who are running the juice business in the form of a cottage industry in streets and mohallahs. They neither pay their taxes, nor get themselves registered. In the absence of strict copyright laws in our country, they use the bottles and labels of other companies to sell their own products, which may not be of a good quality, but are much cheaper. During the past few years, the purchasing power of the common man has collapsed and now, the main priority for the people is the price and not the quality. With this realization, countless non-registered juice companies are successfully expanding their business, by selling low quality products at a much cheaper rate. Even in the organized sector, there are some who donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t honestly pay their taxes and utility bills or abide by the labour laws formulated by the government. Such short cuts and wrongdoings produce an atmosphere of unhealthy competition, which is damaging and challenging for us as we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t compromise on quality and like to follow the law in letter and spirit. How do you cope with such difficulties and challenges? I tell my staff that challenges and difficulties are all around, but we have to march forward. I will be wrong if I believe that one day, all problems and difficulties will disappear, because such a day might never come. In such a situation, the only thing that we can do is to make the best possible utilization of all the available human and material resources and this is exactly what I try to do. How do you fulfil your social corporate responsibilities? The Bhandara Foundation, based in Lahore, is actively involved in various charitable activities and can be described as the philanthropic arm of Murree Brewery. Many prominent influencers, such as Justice 91

VISIONARY

Nasira Iqbal, are associated with the foundation, which regularly assists a number of charities, hospitals and other humanitarian organizations.

marginalized minorities. Despite the meagre funds appointed to an MNA, I have done my best to work for the uplift of my people and will continue to do so.

Moreover, we are supporters of Darakhshan, a project of the Association for Special Persons. It was established in 1961 in Rawalpindi and provides skills training to people with special needs in multiple fields. Murree Brewery helps Darakhshan by providing free space, electricity, security and other necessities. Hundreds of students have successfully been trained and are now generating income to upgrade their lives. Besides this, whenever someone comes to us with a request for financial assistance, we never say no and try to help.

Murree Brewery is known for patronizing polo. Do you sponsor other games also? We sponsor the oldest polo tournament in the country, set up in 1904. But we do not sponsor a lot of games. I prefer donating to hospitals and charities rather than sponsoring charity balls and concerts etc.

You are a Member of the National Assembly of Pakistan on a seat reserved for minorities and are known for your work regarding the welfare of Parsis, Sikhs, Buddhists, Kalasha and others. Please elaborate. During the last four years as MNA, despite limited resources, I have done my best to serve the community. The welfare of the Kalasha people is something I have worked on continuously, setting up projects and schemes worth Rs. 3 crore in Kalash Valley. Moreover, I have built small community centres in South Punjab and interior Sindh for minorities, as well as extended financial support to

You are fond of vintage cars; would you like to tell us about your existing fleet? It is my hobby to collect classic cars. I like collecting old Mercedes and currently own models from the 60s, 70s and 80s. What message would you like to give to the people of Pakistan? A German once said to me, ‘Pakistanis want to get rich overnight, without hard work, which is absolutely not possible.’ He said, ‘look at Germany, which was totally destroyed back in World War II and see where they are today. Same is the case with Japan.’ I am Pakistani, and I am proud of it, but we as a nation need to work hard and work honestly, and avoid short cuts to prosperity.

WE KNOW WHAT YOU DID THIS SUMMER

Finding

Paradise

KASHMIR

A land of blue rivers, cascading waterfalls, lush green vistas and hospitable people, Neelam Valley in Azad Kashmir makes for a memorable holiday, as recently discovered by Qasim Yar Tiwana, the creative force behind QYT Events. Post a week-long trip to the valley, named after the beautiful Neelum River that flows through its length, he shares his learnt wisdom on how best to tackle this scenic, yet at times treacherous, area. 95

WE KNOW WHAT YOU DID THIS SUMMER

The GrouP:

t was a week-long family trip comprising 25 people of various age groups. The oldest person was 60 years old, while the youngest (my daughter Raania) was 9. Family members assembled in Islamabad from all across – my sister from Karachi, my in-laws from Dubai, cousins from Sargodha and Islamabad, while we went from Lahore. It was a unanimous decision to explore Azad Kashmir, as we had all been up north to KPK and Gilgit-Baltistan many times, but never to this side. We had heard that Kashmir was referred to as ‘Pakistan’s Switzerland’ and we were intrigued.

We had heard that Kashmir was referred to as ‘Pakistan’s Switzerland’ and we were intrigued.

Kutton:

Our first stop, Kutton, was 3 hours from Muzaffarabad, the capital of Azad Kashmir. It is one of the many picturesque villages that dot the valley, surrounded by amazing views of mountains and covered in greenery. Our two-day stay was spent exploring the nearby waterfall, picking the

most luscious fresh fruits from the abundant trees in the area and snacking on them, and enjoying family time together. It began to rain as soon as we arrived, and the sound of raindrops pretty much remained the constant soundtrack to the trip.

WE KNOW WHAT YOU DID THIS SUMMER

Kel:

From Kutton onwards, the road conditions became treacherous. Roads were destroyed during the earthquake of 2005 and what remains are mere dirt tracks. When it rains, it becomes especially difficult to navigate the mountainous terrain. From Kutton, we drove about 5 hours to a town called Sharda, stayed overnight and left early morning for Kel, another 5 hours.

100

Bone-tired from all the jostling and bumping during the car ride, we were happy to spend two days in Kel, a charming village with not much to do except enjoy steaming cups of chai while staring at beautiful snow-capped mountains in the distant, catching up on our reading and bonding with family members one doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get to meet that often. It finally got properly cold here.

Aurang Kel: No trip to Neelum Valley is complete without a picnic in Arang Kel, located atop a hill and famed as one of the most beautiful places on earth. Situated at over 8,000 ft, it is famously difficult to reach. From Kel, one has to take a short cable ride to cross a river and what awaits you on the other side is truly hair-raising. We had to trek up a steep, almost vertical mountain for about an hour. The lack of oxygen made one breathless so you could only climb two minutes or so before needing a break.

I was about to faint by the time I reached the top but one look around me, and I realized it had been worth it. Pictures can’t do the place justice, it is truly paradise. With a little attention from the authorities – better roads and some good accommodation – I have no doubt that Azad Kashmir would top the list of tourist destinations in not just Asia, but the world. I just hope the tourism department turns its eye to this part of our North also.

Travel

1 2 3

Essentials It rains a lot so an umbrella and raincoat are a must. Some areas are remote so I would advise to take a well-stocked first aid kit to deal with medical emergencies. There is a lot of trekking and climbing involved and shoes suffer from wear and tear so an extra pair of joggers is needed.

4 5

A sturdy walking stick would be a great help. Food options are limited (most meals consist of daal chawal and karahi) so pack lots of dried foot items and snacks, such as bread, croissants, biscuits, juices etc. Books and music for some much needed down time 101

WE KNOW WHAT YOU DID THIS SUMMER

Travel

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Tips Azad Kashmir is one of the most beautiful places that I have ever seen, but it suffers from a lack of amenities. Hence go with a realistic mindset. There will be arduous periods but those will be rewarded by some unexpected natural beauty. Roads are unpaved most of the way, hence travel only in jeeps. You have to be relatively fit for a trip to Neelum Valley, because some trekking and climbing is inevitable and believe me itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not easy. Be smart about what you eat and drink. Even though we stayed at army messes and were careful about the drinking water, I caught a terrible stomach bug and was hospitalized on my return.

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MOROCCO

Diaries By Natasha Saigol

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Heady and exuberant, Morocco is a beguiling mix of ancient cultures, medieval cities, exotic buys and delicious cuisine. On a ten-day trip around the country, avid traveller Natasha Saigol discovers a land rich in art, history and diversity of landscape. She shares an in-depth travel guide featuring the how, what and where to help you plan your trip to this North African nation bordering the Atlantic.

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Travel

orocco had always interested me. With some of the oldest Islamic buildings in the world, home to perfumers and apothecaries and Bedouin music, the setting for stories such as Robinson Crusoe, movies like Casablanca, Othello and Lawrence of Arabia, the works of Ibn Battuta, favoured by the likes of Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens in the 1960s, and featuring the permanent homes of Tennessee Williams and Yves Saint Laurent, how could one not be intrigued by the country! I found it to be the perfect blend of Arab and French/European culture, conservative in some areas yet very modern in others. It is extremely rich in art and history and boasts a diversity in land from rugged mountains to the sea, from deserts to old cities.

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Tips I had read of unwanted attention for single women travelling alone or in groups which is why I went with my cousin David, who joined me from London. I would advise going with a male companion. (Having said that, David was approached by a local at a music festival we went to, who offered him 5000 camels for my hand in marriage!) Take precautions, be wary of tourist traps, dress modestly, keep a scarf handy, it’s expected you will cover your shoulders and knees, especially when walking about the conservative areas like the medinas. Morocco is generally safe for women, though. There is the concept of shared taxi in Morocco. So don’t be surprised if you are in one and the driver stops along the way and picks up more people. This is normal and safe. There is a language problem as most locals in shops and restaurants as well as taxi drivers and train conductors only speak Arabic, French or a local dialect of Berber. Locals are generally friendly. In our hotels, the staff was extremely nice and helpful with tips on where to visit. In restaurants, they will try to help if you can’t understand the menu, which can happen often, especially at local street cafés. Bargain as much as you can.

Where to Stay No trip to Morocco is complete if you don’t stay in a riad, a traditional Moroccan house or palace with an interior garden, courtyard, or fountain, owned and run by locals and converted into a B&B. The walls of the riads are adorned with tiles, usually with Arabic calligraphy. Rooms are decorated with hand-carved wooden tables, tapestries, traditional carpets, urns, and floor lamps. We stayed at Riad Altair in Marrakech, a 10-minute walk from the main Jemaa el-Fnaa square. In Fez, we stayed at Riad Ghita, located just outside the walls of the medina. Both had rooftop seating with superb views of the city and excellent service overall. We found the riads to be cheaper than hotels, more conveniently located to tourist sites, and we loved the traditional, simple breakfast they served.

What to Eat The flavors of Moroccan food are a treat for the taste buds. From pastilas to tajines and couscous, the meals will charm you! They are not only well cooked but also immensely detailed and colourful, especially the spices! Tagine is probably the first dish you should try – it’s a slow cooked stew of lamb, cooked in clay pots and flavoured with dry fruits and nuts, delicious with khobz (thick chunks of bread). Bissara, which is a soup of dried broad beans and harira, rich with tomatoes, lentils, chickpeas and lamb, are must-tries also. Briouat is exactly like our local mini samosas. Couscous will be served with just about everything. Prunes, honey, cinnamon, raisins, almonds and sweet onions are used in most dishes. Café De France in Jamaa El Fna, Marrakech is recommended (Try to get the roof top table, has the best views of the entire square). Definitely not to be missed is Rick’s Café in Casablanca. This place was designed to recreate the bar made famous by Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman in the classic film Casablanca. The attention to detail in décor, the grand piano etc, made one feel like one had stepped back in time to the 1940’s, into the actual movie. I’d highly recommend the steak and the scallops in squid ink pasta. 107

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Fez remains Moroccoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grandest and oldest imperial city. 108

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What to See:

Casablanca: The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is the world’s seventh largest mosque and took five years to complete. The mosque’s minaret is the world’s tallest, and it is Casablanca’s chief landmark. Take a walk along the cornice in the late afternoon, go up to the water and enjoy the beach, stop at a seaside café for a coffee.

Chefchaouen: A 4-hour drive from Fez, this blue city is not to be missed. Located on a hill side, it’s known for the striking, blue-washed buildings of its old town. Leather and weaving workshops line its steep cobbled lanes. In the shady main square of Place Outa el Hammam is the red-walled Kasbah, and a mosque. A walk about with a local guide will take about 2 hours but it is a photographer’s paradise with many narrow winding coloured streets, stairs, paths and vine leaf canopies.

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Marrakech: Marrakech and Fez both have medinas, which are vibrant with souks and artisan shops. I would highly recommend hiring a guide for the area since it is huge, has a labyrinth of tiny streets and it’s easy to get lost, which is enjoyable too if you have the time! Our guide took us systematically though our shopping of interest. Make sure to visit the local pharmacies and herbalist shops here. Jemaa el-Fnaa is the main square in Marrakech and it’s really like no other square in the world. Bustling with activity, you have everything going on here – food and drink stands, street hustlers and henna tattoo artists, snake charmers and monkey trainers, and crowds of people everywhere. Be warned though, if you take a picture or video of the performers, you will be expected to pay for it. The Jardin Majorelle Botantical Gardens and Museum is electric blue in décor, full of exotic plants, beautiful trees and water features, and was once owned by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé.

At Chez Ali Restaurant and Fantasia Show, you’ll eat, hear and see something truly exceptional: A walk through Ali Baba’s cave, a unique entertainment provided in an arena, a beautiful parade, unforgettable fantasia cavaliers, acrobats and stuntmen on horses, traditional songs, light show and belly dances. Over the years, the reputation of the show has expanded worldwide and it has become a must-see attraction in Marrakech. Ourika is small but very pretty hill station about a 3-hours drive from Marrakech. Take a hike through the hilly forests and enjoy a dip in the cool waterfalls. Note that Marrakech is often called the “Red City,” and the sun is quite strong all year round, even during winter. So carry sun protection and headgear of some kind.

Ride a camel through the Marrakech Palmeraie on a sunset tour that explores the city’s sprawling oasis in the cooler evening hours.

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Fez: Fez remains Morocco’s grandest and oldest imperial city. Fez el-bali (Old Fez) is the world’s largest active medieval city. Like the medina, it is worth a visit to walk through. At the entrance, stop and notice the Bab Boujloud, an ornate city gate, one of the city’s most iconic emblems. Andalusian Mosque and Bou Inania Madarasa: Located inside the Fez medina, they date back to the 9th century. They are architecturally stunning, each inch of these buildings are decorated in fine detail.

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How to Travel within the Country: We travelled mostly by train in Morocco, which was just as well because I’m a great fan of train travel. Casablanca to Marrakech was a 4-hour journey, from Marrakech to Fez, 9 hours, and Fez to Casablanca was 3 hours. It was super comfortable, clean and very affordable, costing between $5 and $25. We met some hikers from Germany and Tunisia who were on their way to a climb (who I proceeded to invite to Pakistan to experience our mountains!). The train tickets are given by seat numbers, but in practicality that doesn’t apply. My seat number didn’t exist in the carriage, and as a local passenger pointed out, “it’s ok, no problem… everybody sit everywhere.”

What to

Buy

1 Argan Oil

– locally produced and extracted the Berber way. Available everywhere, in markets, stalls in the squares, and pharmacies. Great for culinary and cosmetic reasons, widely famous for its benefits on all kinds of hair, it is also extremely efficient on acne, skin and nails in general.

2 Black Soap

– Made from vegetable extracts, argan oil and full of vitamin E, it is amazing for leaving the skin exfoliated and soft.

3 Leather products

from Fez, since the Fez Tannery is one of the most famous in the world. You can get slippers, bags, jackets, wallets, belts and much more. Good for gifts.

4 Lanterns

– They come in all shapes and sizes and are a bit pricy, anything from a hundred dollars upwards, but are so worth it. Try to buy these in Fez, they will be cheaper than in Marrakech.

5 Rugs and carpets

– Handmade with designs and colours that are truly unique to Morocco.

6 Pottery 7 Moroccan slippers

– Moroccon pottery is truly magnificent. – pretty, vividly colourful and have all kinds of patterns. Can be worn anywhere. 113

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from

Russia, withlove

With the world’s attention fixed firmly on Russia of late, the host nation for the FIFA World Cup 2018, famously stereotyped for its ‘cold weather and cold people’, surprised international fans with its hospitality and warmness. While on the field, there were shocks and upsets galore as some of the toprated teams bowed out early, off the field, there was an infectious, carnivallike atmosphere all over the country, from the streets of Moscow to the beaches of Sochi. Pakistan’s very own Jahanzaib Shafique, Managing Director of JBnJaws Productions, was there to witness the festivities first-hand and shares his memorable experience with DESTINATIONS. 116

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hy did you decide to visit Russia during the FIFA World Cup? Tell us about the planning of the trip, getting the FIFA tickets, the visa process and the travel logistics. I’d always wanted to go Russia and I do follow football on and off. This was the perfect opportunity to enjoy both without the hassle of going through a visa application since your fan ID served as the visa. Once you’d purchased FIFA World Cup tickets, you had to apply for a fan ID that was mailed to you and you had to wear it as identity. With a regular Russian visa, you are only eligible to visit about two cities. With the fan ID there was no limitation so that was perfect too.

As for the FIFA tickets, I missed the first two rounds of ticket sales but got them in the 4th round. I didn’t fly directly to Russia from Lahore. My first stop was Warsaw, Poland and from there I took a Polish LOT airline flight which was about 4 hours long. From Lahore to Warsaw, it took 14 hours and I flew on Qatar. Who accompanied you? I had different friends in different cities, whoever my schedule matched with at the time.

At the Kaliningrad stadium for the England vs Belgium game

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Russia isn’t high up on the list of countries on the popular tourist trail. Did you go with any preconceived notions of what it would be like? How would you sum up your impressions of the country and its people? I started with a less popular city, Kaliningrad, and there wasn’t a lot happening there. But my trip thenceforth completely made up for it. As opposed to popular belief, I found that Russia was very safe, the people very friendly and warm and the country beyond beautiful. Coming from the heat of Lahore, the low temperature was also a welcomed change. The most visible barrier was the language. Russia doesn’t receive a lot of foreign tourists and I guess they never really bothered to learn English except in the 2 bigger cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg. The street signs, menu items, and anything and everything is in Russian only and without the Google translator app, I would have had a tough time. How many cities did you visit and which one was your favourite? I visited 5 cities in all and I think Saint Petersburg has my heart. It is culturally rich, with an excellent nightlife. The architecture, the history (and the remarkable preservation of it) all begs for attention. Kazan was my second favourite.

How did you travel between the cities to watch the different matches? By air, primarily because all the bullet train tickets were sold out by the time I booked my trip. Besides, Russia is huge so it took a long time to get from one place to another on train. Average rides in between cities are in excess of 24 hours, and I didn’t want to waste 5-6 days just on train rides.

At the St Petersburg stadium before the Sweden vs Swiss match

Qulsharif Mosque and Kazan Kremlin in the background, Kazan

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Russia vs Croatia quarter final at the Sochi stadium

Had the Russian authorities taken any measures to ensure that football fans were facilitated, such as reducing hotel charges and travel costs? Hotel charges and flight fares not so much – if anything, they were pretty expensive especially right before a match in that particular city. The intercity travel however, yes. On the day of the match, you could travel for free to and from the match with your fan ID. You also got a 30% discount on all entry tickets to sites in all the cities if you had your fan ID. There were a few shops that gave certain discounts on your fan ID too. What was the atmosphere like in the country, especially given Russia’s unprecedented good run? It was absolutely electric! Whether a match was going on or not, you found locals and foreigners chanting slogans. It was extremely festive, the decorations as well as the spirit of the whole country. I watched the quarter-final between Russia and Croatia and that was one of the best matches of the world cup and one of the most thrilling ones too in terms of the audience and the atmosphere. Were the locals welcoming of international football fans? They were amazing, as helpful as they could be. I didn’t experience even the slightest bit of hostility or discomfort.

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Did you run into any other Pakistanis? Did you make friends with people of other nationalities? I was actually surprised to see so many desis in Russia; bumped into quite a few friends even. And made quite a few friends of other nationalities, mostly Americans, Indians, Argentinians and Brazilians. Even chanted Afridi and Sachin with some Indians in the stadium! Can you describe the celebrations when a team won? What was it like witnessing that joy and euphoria first hand? It was amazing, almost as if Pakistan had won if one of the teams I was supporting had won. You quickly gel in with the crowd because it is so contagious. Which team (if any) were you supporting? Mother Russia! (After the exit of Argentina of course.) Russia is full of iconic sights and monuments – did you get the time to visit any of them? I tried to see as many as I could in the time that I had. My favourite one would have to be St. Isaac’s Cathedral in Saint Petersburg that was breathtakingly beautiful. Other than that, there was the Peterhof Palace that was also magnificent. I also went to see the Hermitage Museum, Summer Garden, Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, Kazan Kremlin, Moscow Kremlin, St. Basil’s Cathedral and more.

Summer Gardens, St Petersburg

At the Argentina vs France knockout in Kazan

A glimpse of the many churches & monuments inside the Moscow Kremlin from Ivan’s Bell Tower viewing point

What is Russian cuisine like? What were some of your favourite local dishes? Well, I tried traditional Tatar dishes and Russian also, but didn’t quite find them all that delectable. I think that’s because we’re used to our spicy food while theirs was comparatively bland. Interestingly, the name of one of the Tatar dishes was “pilaf” and it was quite similar to our pilao; I figured the origin of the dish must be the same considering even the names sound alike. It was pretty good, perhaps the only local dish I enjoyed. Did you bring back any souvenirs? Always do. There are the fridge magnets that are a must. I collect them and have a sizeable collection by now from all over the world. Then I got an ushanka, the Russian fur hat. I also got a matryoshka doll (the stacking doll). As FIFA souvenirs, I brought back fridge magnets and glasses with match specific labels from all the five matches.

St Isaacs Cathedral, St Petersburg

What would you consider to be the most memorable part of the trip? Other than the matches, the most memorable would be the biking track I covered while at Roza Khatur in Sochi. I’m not too keen on heights, so it was a challenge for me as it got really steep at times. Managing to complete the trek unscratched felt quite like an achievement and made the city and its terrain very memorable for me. Gorki Adventure Park & Hills, Sochi

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AGENTS OF CHANGE

Untold Tales of

Football By Maria Mahesar

From the streets of Lyari to the factories of Sialkot, football enthusiasts in the cricket-mad country of Pakistan are working slowly but surely to increase the sportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s popularity. Despite the lack of official support, football continues to grow due the passion and determination of these local heroes.

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If you were to ask anyone to name Pakistan’s favourite sport, the resounding answer would be cricket. It’s not hard to see why. From the port city of Gwadar, situated on the southwestern coast of Balochistan, to the 2,430 kilometre long Durand Line (the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan), cricket is the common language spoken and understood across geographical, cultural and social barriers. In recent years, however, what is statistically the most popular sport in the world – football – has started to make inroads into the country. Introduced in the Indian subcontinent during the British Raj as a morale-boosting exercise for British troops, football has slowly and gradually started to gain momentum in our cricket-obsessed nation. With little support given from the authorities, it is worth noting that the game’s recent popularity can be attributed to the struggle and effort invested by the common man – whether in the streets of Lyari or the football factories in Sialkot – making the evolution of football in Pakistan an inspiring story. A series of short films recently shot and released by Red Bull highlight these unsung heroes beautifully.

and still is, considered the ‘mecca of football’ in Pakistan, with over 150 registered football clubs, 11 football grounds and two stadiums. The talent of its young players has been the subject of many a short film and news features in the international press; unfortunately there is little in the way of official government support, forcing the players, who already face economic hardships, to fund their own passion. One of the young players highlighted in the Red Bull video is Shajjar and he gives us an account of his undying love for the sport despite the daily struggles of living in Lyrai. “It’s not easy growing up in Lyari but football gives us [the people of Lyari] a sense of hope and something to look forward to each day. Because when we are on the field nothing else matters. Our troubles, fears, worries – they all disappear. It’s just the ball and us. In my life my first friend was football. I saw my father playing football and that is how I developed my interest in the sport. The passion for football runs in my blood. It has taught me to challenge my own limits and break down the barriers that come my way.”

Lyari’s love for football was evident during the recent FIFA World Cup, when the narrow streets and tiny homes in the congested neighbourhood were festooned with graffiti, flags and posters Karachi’s Lyari might have earned itself a reputation depicting the international teams participating in for crime and gang wars recently but before the the tournament. Large television screens were set political instability of the 90s, the neighbourhood was up in different places so that residents could watch famous for its passion for football and for producing the games, especially when favourites Brazil played. world class players, such as Abdul Ghafoor, Hussain Daily activities were suspended as men, women and Killer, Captain Umer and Ali Nawaz Baloch. It was, children gathered to cheer on their teams.

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As Lyari was in the grips of football fever, another Pakistani city was also vested in the tournament for a different reason. In the province of Punjab lies Sialkot, a city dedicated to the production of footballs that has actively contributed to international tournaments for many years. While Pakistan failed to mark its presence at the FIFA World Cup 2018 with a national team, the ball ‘Telstar 18’ used at the World Cup was manufactured by Sialkot-based company Forward Sports, which was also the official football supplier for 2014’s FIFA World Cup. While Sialkot is the largest manufacturer of hand-sewn footballs, for the World Cup footballs, Forward Sports has adopted thermo-bonded technology, where the panels are attached through heat. The company’s employees say watching the football made with their own hands on their TV screens is equal to the emotions and pride of watching your child graduate. Most importantly, they feel they’ve done their part in putting Pakistan on the world map of football.

In recent years, Pakistani women have also made their presence felt in the sport, often perceived as male-dominated. These football enthusiasts reside mainly in urban cities of Pakistan with access to a reasonable amount of facilities that helps them bring their passion for the sport onto the field. Karachi United’s women’s division is one of the local set-ups that has earned a name for its dedication and commitment to the game. With the sport gaining momentum amongst the female population, the nation has produced role models like 21-year-old Hajra Khan, captain of the women’s national football team. In the Red Bull video, we meet another inspirational figure, Mashal Hussain of Karachi United. “Football is everything to me – it’s my career, passion, it has given my life purpose. Among the many challenges we faced, gender bias, cultural conservatism and lack of confidence from the girls we were working with were prevalent. My goal is to encourage women to break free of the stereotypes they are bound by,” she says.

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HERITAGE

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the stuff of

ancient legends By Madeeha Syed

When in Sindh, don an Ajrak. That is how it works. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t matter whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a peasant or a prince, everyone wears it. Some wear it as a mark of belonging, others as a nod of respect to the ancient land of its origin. A tradition that started somewhere during the times of the Moenjodaro civilisation, this unique shawl has truly stood the test of time. Who makes them and how? Our favourite explorer, Madeeha Syed makes a trip to the tiny village of Bhit Shah in interior Sindh and reveals the ageold techniques and time-honoured methods used, here in a tell-all.

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HERITAGE The heat wasn’t going to stop devotees from going to the urs of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar which was going to take place at Sehwan that weekend in May. People from around the country were converging to the Sufi saint’s shrine. We crossed several buses carrying pilgrims that way – who were going to offer their respects and spend the weekend seeking the blessings of the saint, engaging in song and dance to the sound of the music played by musicians who’ve been playing at Sehwan for generations. But the heat doesn’t care whether you are on a spiritual tour or not. Over 12 people died of a heatstroke that weekend and as we were making our way, we were strongly advised not to go. And so, we went for Plan B: Bhit Shah. Playing instruments and singing at shrines is not the only tradition among some families in this Sufi belt of Sindh; the families of Bhit Shah are known for being the makers of the Sindhi Ajrak [shawl with an indigenous pattern].

WHEN IN SINDH… It was one of the hottest days of the year when we decided to go on a road trip to interior Sindh. In Pakistan, the month of May is absolutely brutal. To escape the heat, most people prefer going up country to the mountains where the altitude and the glacial breeze keeps things kind of cool. Travelling in the south is usually reserved for the winter months – from October till March. In the summer the temperature can reach up to the late 40s. You can bake a roti on a rock outside in that heat. My travel companions this time around included a rock and roll photographer, Wolfgang Burat from Germany. He’s photographed acts such as Nick Cave, Freddy Mercury, Sade, James Brown, Chaka Khan, Alex Chilton etc. There was also Markus, who teaches at a local university and is a journalist in a ‘legendary’ magazine that focused on counter cultures in Germany that Burat had founded, and Waqar J Khan, who is a designer that uses indigenous Sindhi craft and design in his clothes. The culture of Sindh, Sufi mysticism and German music – it was the perfect combination for a trip. 128

Once in the area, on a narrow, easy-to-miss road if you aren’t watching out for the turn from the main highway, we came across a junction – one road led to the Sufi University of Sindh and the other, to the craftsmen we had come to see. You cross a few nondescript shops selling traditional Sindhi garments until you come across the plots allotted by the government for the preservation of this craft. Families both work and live on these plots. What sets them apart are the stunning, vibrant colours of their clothes – from bold, bright purples, pinks, yellows, red to green, blue and turquoise. Like birds of paradise (minus the pomp) they stand out in an otherwise brown and muted environment. It’s hard to miss. For Ghulam Nabi Soomro, 40, this has been a family tradition for as long as he can remember. “This goes back generations,” he says ushering us into the cool refuge of his home and offering us some salty lassi (a watered yogurt based drink mainly used for its cooling effect). “My father did it, he learned from my grandfather, he from my great grandfather and so on… going back to a little over 300 years.” Ghulam Nabi oversees the operations on his lot. He’s got a head full of pepper-grey hair and a weathered face that makes him look older than his eyes. And he looks very amused at our fascination with his family’s craft.

THE MAKING OF AJRAK There is a vat of dye being cooked above a brickand-clay oven. The fuel? Firewood. Nabi says that alternative forms of fuel are not only more expensive, since it takes many hours to cook the dye until it’s ready, but they also don’t produce the same results. The dye being cooked is a deep red for the Ajraks and other traditional Sindhi block-printed garments being prepared. Some have been spread out to dry. Workers in one of the rooms are using old wooden blocks, dipping them in dye and then carefully printing them on the Ajraks with an indigenous design that goes back to the ancient Moenjodaro civilisation! It’s a tedious task that demands precision. “The design on the Ajraks, on our clothes, all of it comes from there,” Nabi explains. “Some of these blocks are generations old and have been in the family for a long time. The design itself is over 5,000 years old.” What’s more fascinating is the ingredients. “The dyes are 100 percent organic,” says Nabi. “They’re vegetable dyes. We use eucalyptus, pomegranate, mehndi [henna], old iron and for Ajraks we’ll use goondh [Tragacanth gum], turmeric, lemons etc.” But the king of all dyes here is the indigo. The ‘blue gold’ of Sindh, the indigo plant from which the seeds for the dye come from, used to grow wild on the banks of the Indus River. No one knows why it went into decline this past century. It went extinct in its natural habitat until efforts were made by the WWF. Goth Sudhar Sangat (an NGO) started cultivating the indigo plant in Nawabshah and Matiari. The scarcity of indigo is what makes the indigo dye used for the Ajraks and other garments in Bhit Shah, extra special. 129

HERITAGE

While all of the other dyes are cooked in vats and left to cool in the open after they are used, the indigo dye is stored carefully in an underground clay container of sorts and covered with a cap. The elder in Nabi’s group himself chooses to open the container and carefully dip cloth that has been block-printed by workers in another room completely into the vat. Excess dye is then squeezed out and back into the container. The cloth, now almost completed Ajrak, is then straightened and set out to dry under the baking sun.

Another special thing that happens only in Nabi’s printing/dyeing plot is the employment of the original, traditional technique of using a mix of fuller’s earth (a clay material) and dung printed on Ajraks to protect the previously-printed dye from being coloured over when the cloth is dipped in the main red or indigo dye. We go into a room where one printer, Mumtaz Taheen (35-years-old), works alone. He prints with the dung and then sprinkles on fuller’s earth before shaking what doesn’t stick off the cloth.

“Some of these blocks are generations old and have been in the family for a long time. The design itself is over 5,000 years old.”

“He’s the only person that I know of that still uses this technique,” says Nabi. “Everyone else has stopped.” Why? “Because of the smell,” laughs Nabi, “Mushkil kaam hai” [It’s difficult work]. It’s true, there is a distinct smell of dung, although it’s not as bad as one would’ve thought. What do the others do? “They use chawal ka chilka [rice husks]. But that causes severe irritation to the skin. It’s not good for your health. It ruins your hands,” he explains as we step out to go into the room where he stocks the finished product.

Deviating a little from the traditional cotton, Nabi’s lot also prints indigenous Sindhi designs using organic, vegetable dyes on silk scarves, shawls and fabric meant for tailoring traditional tunics. He’s proud of the fact that several bigname clothing brands and designers all source their fabric and prints from him. He doesn’t seem to mind that they don’t credit him or Bhit Shah for it. For those interested in getting these from the source, technology and courier services have provided arims, who stopped by on their way to Sehwan, outside.

The fact that most of the people in the lot gather around to watch just this part of the printing/dyeing process gives it a distinctive, ceremonial air.

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IN THE LAND OF LAL SHAHBAZ QALANDER There was an air of festivity in Sehwan. You could hear dhol wallas [local drummers] going at it and people dancing on almost every street. As we were planning to leave, a crowd gathered just outside Nabi’s lot, where a short while ago, volunteers baked rotis and doled out food for the pilgrims stopping by. In the middle of the crowd, a few people had started to dance to the beat of the dhol being played next to them. Little by little, more and more people joined. The moment they saw us approach, they extended their ‘performance’ a little. It was heartening to see people celebrate and enjoy themselves, just for the heck of it. With fewer international tourists, you sometimes attract attention when you travel with foreigners. People especially want to get their photos taken with them. Markus, who’s been in the country for several years now and considers Pakistan his home, is used to the attention and happily obliged. “I get so much love here,” he laughed later on. As a parting note, here’s a small tip. A must-do when leaving Sehwan is to have chai from a dhaba (food joint) at the highway. Ask anyone for the buffalo ‘bara’ and it’s right next to it. The milk that they use is fresh – sometimes just an hour or two old. The chai, absolutely divine.

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ONE TO WATCH

OBJECT of DESIRE with

Arsalan A. Khan The furniture designer discusses his luxe aesthetic, his love for travel and his most prized possessions.

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ONE TO WATCH

rsalan A. Khan is the man behind KOHR, a luxury furniture and interior accessories brand established in 2014. Based in Islamabad, KOHR items are handcrafted by local artisans using the finest quality, locally sourced, materials from the north of Pakistan and Afghanistan. The brand has the distinction of exhibiting internationally at prestigious shows such as Decorex and House & Garden Festival in London, Salone del Mobile in Milan, MAISON&OBJET in Paris and most recently at Clerkenwell Design Week in London, where its unique products received a tremendous response. DESTINATIONS speaks to the talented young designer about his Pashtun roots, his inspiration and his favourite objects in his home.

Did you know even as child that you would take up a creative career? How did furniture designing come about? Yes, it was always evident that I would be a creative. I loved art, and used to paint all the way till my A-Levels. I think art is the first expression of a creative person. Furniture design always attracted me – I saw a huge gap in Pakistan for furniture that is not only high design but at the same time functional. We have a lot of good replication in Pakistan, but not many people are designing. I decided that this was my path. And so I ventured off to Florence, Italy. At the Florence Institute of Design, I was exposed to all that is beautiful. It was a truly immersive experience, I lost myself and that’s how I found KOHR. I am also the creative director for a design house named MKC, where I supervise very talented architects to create glorious residential and commercial spaces. What does ‘KOHR’ mean? KOHR means ‘home’ in Pushto and the Italian word ‘casa’ was the inspiration. KOHR was a homecoming for me, leaving Florence and coming home to create what I loved and share the joy of it with others. I have a proud Pashtun heritage, so the name made sense to me, and I just went for it. What is your core design philosophy? My core philosophy comes from Italian radical design, when you actually take thoughts, emotions and experiences, and translate that into functional furniture. I always have a narrative for my collections. Having a narrative makes a particular collection cohesive and gives it a direction. Of course we do bespoke work all the time, but designing my collections is what I live for. It’s a very “dear diary” experience for me, as the themes are inspired from my personal experiences in life – from what I see, touch, desire and imagine.

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You use local materials and work with local artisans to create pieces with a very modern and contemporary aesthetic – take us through that creative process. I have always wanted to give back to the community. That is the reason I came back and launched my brand. We have such a great abundance of raw materials in Pakistan. I source all the wood and gemstones that I use in my pieces in KPK, and other regions of Pakistan. I set up my factory in Peshawar city, as I found that the skilled labour available in that region was underused. They did not have enough work and had incredible skills, so I started to train them. I took my contemporary designs and their traditional skills, and started the process and birth of KOHR. The creative process happens in Islamabad, at KOHR’s head office, now with a team of designers, who work on my vision to bring each collection to fruition. Our upcoming collection is named Allure, and is inspired by the mystics. KOHR has exhibited internationally at various prestigious shows. How did you break into the foreign market and what were some of the challenges along the way? We have worked hard on this and been very lucky. We have been noticed all over Europe. Recently Grant Pierrus of the iconic blog Interior Style Hunter called our tables ‘iconic’. That was a very proud moment. The main challenges for having shows overseas is the time and finances. It isn’t cheap to ship out your goods to international destinations, and our government does not offer any assistance and grants. I say this because other governments do. I have met many designers at shows who have had assistance. We may have a very evolved fashion industry in Pakistan but the rest of the design fraternity is still very under recognized.

You’ve shown frequently in London, at Decorex and the House and Garden Festival and most recently the Clerkenwell Design Week earlier this year. What sort of response have you received from the London market? Are you looking for a permanent stockist there? The House and Garden Festival in Olympia was very well received by consumers, as it was more of a consumer based show. We sold out! This show left me hungry for the design industry in London, so I explored which show was industry heavy and it was CDW. Clerkenwell Design Week was truly amazing – I met architects, interior designers, builders etc. The appreciation for my work was overwhelming. Our statement piece, the Poseiden Hostess Table, soon became the most photographed piece at the show. This was a defining moment for KOHR. I remember closing my eyes and thinking ‘KOHR has arrived.’ We are actively looking for buyers in the UK. I have a slew of meetings this September, and we hope to be available physically in the UK by the end of this year. We are however already available on a UK-based trade supplier’s website; Eporta. Do changing trends in fashion and art affect your work? You will be surprised at how many times it’s the other way around. Let me give you an example – millennial pink first became popular in interiors and furniture, after which fashion designers picked up on the trend. Visuals are what tell us what’s in vogue, so yes, these trends affect my work, and vice versa. Describe your ideal space in three words? Modern. Luxe. Comfortable.

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My lounge space is my favourite space, as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a personal retreat for me where all my thoughts and travels have come together. This room is my story. 137

ONE TO WATCH Describe your house. What is your favourite room in your house? My lounge space is my favourite space, as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a personal retreat for me where all my thoughts and travels have come together. The room is my story. I too am made up of my stories, so shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t my space also represent all those moments? The coffee tables in this space hold objects and books that I have picked up from my travels, like little reminders of what I experienced. One of the central pieces here has been passed down to you from your grandfatherâ&#x20AC;Ś please tell us about that. Yes, so I believe in preserving heritage pieces. I have a lot of pieces in my house that belonged to my grandfathers on both sides. They were both collectors. This particular piece, the black and mother of pearl chinoiserie bar, was originally a screen that was broken with some missing pieces, and I refused for it to die a slow death. My grandfather had bought it on his travels to the Far East. I took the broken pieces and breathed new life into them by creating a bar. Now it sits centre stage, and is loved by all.

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Florence found me. And then I found myself inside its magic. What is your favourite thing in your house that you didn’t design? My paternal grandfather’s gramophone cabinet, which I believe was bought in London when he was a young man. I managed to restore the cabinet; the gramophone still doesn’t work, but it will one day, and then it will transcend time with the sound of glorious music.

How important is travel to your life and your work? It is the essence of my design; I must travel and experience to be able to deliver. Being lost in a gallery is a favourite past time of mine.

What is one of the most common mistakes that people make when it comes to decorating their homes? Matchy-matchy is a NO NO for me. Also, a common mistake is thinking ‘décor’ means a trip to the market to buy expensive things like vases and bowls. Collect slowly, let each piece tell a story!

How do you unwind? Listen to some music, paint, cook.

Name an artist/designer who inspires you? Gaudi. If only I could have an hour with him, sigh.

What is your favourite city in the world and why? Florence. First, it found me. And then I found myself inside its magic.

What is your favourite thing about living in Islamabad? The green environment, the clean air. What is at the top of your bucket list right now? Backpacking in South America, to find myself again. Every decade we must challenge who we are! 139

TRAVEL GUIDE

Sanctuary

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in the

Wild

The Khanabadosh Baithak, a campsite and cafĂŠ located in the picturesque Shigar Valley, provides travellers a chance to experience nature at its finest.

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Who? Co-founders and nomadic duo, Ahmed Hassan and Baneen Mirza, who team up with Muhammad Mudassir to run retreat describe it thus: “A band of divergents, we have come here in the mountains to live a dream. To breathe fresh air, to see the universe in the night sky and to live a simple life (Well... the kind that comes with WiFi) and also to tell our stories through travel interspersed with writing, music, photography, and performing arts. ... and since making tea and cooking for others gives us so much joy we thought to make a living of it. So here we are. Khanabadosh; inviting you to be our guest at our Baithak – where we can meet, eat, create, explore, tell stories, and collect a bagful of happy memories.”

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. . and since making tea and cooking for others gives us so much joy we thought to make a living of it.

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The Baithak is your ultimate mountain retreat, giving you a chance to sleep under a canopy of stars and enjoy nature at its finest.

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What? Nestled deep within the beautiful Shigar Valley, against the backdrop of majestic mountain peaks and set on the banks of a river, the Baithak is your ultimate mountain retreat, giving you a chance to sleep under a canopy of stars and enjoy nature at its finest. The Baithak café serves traditional Balti cuisine as well delicacies that use the abundant local produce artfully, from walnuts to mulberries and cherries. The café is open to campers and drop-in visitors alike. The campsite provides a truly communal experience as travellers gather collectively, whether at the breakfast table or around a nightly bonfire, and connections are forged inevitably. As “experience curators” the folks at the Baithak regularly produce immersive experiences with the intention of imbuing lives with cultural richness. A two-day ‘melo’ featuring the faqirs of Bhit Shah and honouring their centuries-old musical tradition was held recently. An upcoming event is a yoga retreat by certified yoga teacher Ajlaan Raza Sayani.

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As â&#x20AC;&#x153;experience curatorsâ&#x20AC;? the folks at the Baithak regularly produce immersive experiences with the intention of imbuing lives with cultural richness.

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When? April to November For bookings contact: info@khanabadoshbaithak.com +92 355 5731111 149

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COLOMBO Unexpected& Exceptional

Beyond the gridlocked traffic and the sprawling mass of concrete, lies a city which is unexpectedly more sublime and serene at its core. With its fascinating mix of modern and colonial architecture, Colombo also serves as a melting pot of people and religions offering a chance to experience Buddhist, Tamil, Muslim and Christian cultures in co-existence. If you seek, you will find unlooked places with vibrant pops of color. There’s a growing number of modern cafés, galleries and boutiques that DESTINATIONS has curated for you showcasing the new face of Sri Lanka’s capital city.

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Stay

Galle Face Hotel No.2, Galle Road, Colombo Galle Face Hotel is one of the city’s most iconic buildings, dating back as far as 1864 to the colonial era. It counts amongst the oldest hotels east of the Suez and stands as an elegant symbol of a bygone era of splendor and sophistication.

Paradise Road 65 Rosmead Road, Colombo 07 Paradise Road Tintagel Colombo is a unique and private hotel, situated in the heart of Colombo’s most elite neighbourhood. Offering 10 individually designed suites with all modern amenities and services, the hotel is housed in a stunning heritage residence that was previously home to three of Sri Lanka’s political leaders.

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The Wallawwa B288, Kotugoda, Sri Lanka The Wallawwa boutique hotel is located just a stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw away from Colombo airport and is one of the finest addresses in the city. The renovated manor house is more than two centuries old and is surrounded by magnificent tropical gardens. The property offers a relaxing spa and a dazzling outdoor pool for the ideal getaway.

Shangri-La 1, Galle Face, Colombo 2 The familiar luxury brand has recently opened its Colombo property, which features 500 elegant and contemporary rooms, an award-winning spa and world-class restaurants.

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Shop Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Atelier Touche 504, R.A. de Mel Mawatha, Colombo 3 Sri Lankaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest fashion boutique showcasing an an inspiring collection crafted for that chic European look.

Anuk Stockist: PR Concept Store, 41 Horton Place, Colombo Anuk is a ready-to-wear contemporary brand that uses the finest fabrics to create simple silhouettes. Founded in Sri Lanka with the idea of lazy elegance.

Buddha Batik 32 Ward Place, Colombo Batik craft meets contemporary design.

PR Concept Store 41 Horton Place, Colombo Stylish and contemporary, PR presents a fresh and unique take on fashion, bringing together an eclectic mix of local and international designers. 154

Barefoot

Fusion 14

704 Galle Road Colombo 03; 41 Pedlar Street Galle Fort; Dutch Hospital Fort Colombo 01

14/1, Park Road, Colombo 5

Serving colour and happiness since 1964. Vibrant, hand-woven fabric fashioned into clothes, table and bed linen and toys. Art gallery, bookshop and garden café rolled into one.

Contemporary store that designs unique pieces of clothing and accessories. From classic and fine cuts, to ethnic resort wear, batik and tie-dyes – fusion 14 has grown into one of Colombo’s leading homegrown retail brands.

Trunk Sri Lanka

Seven Islands

Cinnamon Grand Colombo and Ramada Hotel, Colombo

By Appointment – Rajakeeya Mawatha, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Stylish boutique with in season high street fashion, unique designer wear pieces, global jewellery brand Amrapali coupled with gorgeous handbags and shoes. A one-stop boutique that helps you be “never too busy to look beautiful.”

Seven Islands offers a hand picked collection of semi precious Jewellery, scarves, shawls, furniture and artefacts from all around India.

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Eat

Ministry of Crab

Baillie Street – Merchants

Old Dutch Hospital, Colombo Set within a persevered 400-year-old Dutch hospital, Ministry of Crab is a Colombo institution that regularly features on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Expect a warm, laid-back vibe, an open kitchen format and lots and lots of crab – in every shape, size and flavor imaginable. The restaurant is always packed, so don’t go without a reservation.

The chicest new restaurant in town, Baillie Street – Merchant serves up a delectable menu of drinks and eats.

Upali’s

Café Kumbuk

The Gallery Café

Prana Lounge, 60 Horton Place,

2 Alfred House Road, Colombo 00300, No. 65 C W W Kannangara

Colombo With a minimal aesthetic and a focus on local, organic and seasonal produce, Cafe Kumbuk serves up some wholesome food at a beautiful location.

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Old Fort, Colombo

Established in 1998, the café is housed in the former offices of world-renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa, and offers a unique combination of art gallery and chic dining space in one stylish setting. The menu features authentic Sri Lankan fare as well as international options, and a dessert selection that is to die for.

Mawatha, Colombo

Upali’s is one of the best restaurants in the city to sample authentic local cuisine with a focus on balanced seasonings, scrumptious flavours, and great service. Their Sri Lankan curries are loved by the locals, especially the dal curry.

Tea Avenue

Black Cat Colombo Plus Nine Four

Barnes Place; WTC and Marine Drive

11 Wijerama Mawatha, Colombo 00700 D.S. Fonseka, Colombo

A place to relax and unwind. Serving Set in a 1920s mansion, the café the finest Ceylon Tea along with serves delicious casual fare such as coffee, milkshakes and cakes. sandwiches and salads.

Casual dining and coffee. A sister café to Café Kumbuk.

STREET FOOD

COLOMBO Sri Lanka is known for its scrumptious street food and these are some delicacies that are a must-try while in Colombo:

Lamprais:

Pol Roti:

Rice and curry wrapped in banana leaf

Made from grated coconut

Kottu Roti:

Hoppers:

Watalappam:

A combination of roti, vegetables, spices and chicken. Try it at Hotel de New Pilawoos, a no-fuss eatery on Galle Road

Sri Lanka’s version of pancakes – can be made from noodles as well as eggs.

A creamy coconut dessert spiced with cardamom

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Nelum Pokuna Art Street Located directly behind the National Museum Aspiring young artists showcase their work at this market-style road, offering a unique insight into the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thriving art scene.

Colombo Walks For reservations and availability, email explore@colombowalks.com Guided city walks that offer an enhanced experience to both locals and visitors to bring out the vibrant colours and deep history that lies at the heart of Colombo.

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National Museum of Colombo

Gangaramaya Buddhist Temple

Sir Marcus Fernando Mawatha, Colombo 00700, Sri Lanka

61 Sri Jinarathana Rd

The National Museum was founded by Sir William Henry Gregory, a former British Governor of Ceylon and offers a unique insight into the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fascinating history and culture.

The 120-year-old Gangaramaya, situated in the bustling inner-city Colombo, near the scenic Beira Lake, is an intriguing temple complex that is simultaneously a hugely popular tourist attraction, a place of worship and a learning and vocational training center. The stunning Gangaramaya temple is open to everyone, regardless of faith, for an entrance fee of SL Rs. 200 per adult.

Galle Face Green

Mount Lavinia

Galle Main Road, Colombo

Located just outside of Colombo, the suburb of Mount Lavinia provides a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. With a ‘Gold Mile’ of beaches, visitors can take in panoramic views of the ocean and indulge in some mouthwatering seafood along the many restaurants lining the strip. Hotels along the beach, such as the Mount Lavinia Hotel, will rent out poolside space to day visitors.

The Galle Face Green is an ocean-side urban park located between the Galle Road and the Indian Ocean. It is considered the largest open space in Colombo and one of the main highlights of the city. Lined with food stalls, local vendors and enthusiastic kite flyers, it’s a great place to take the kids.

WHITE by Spa Ceylon 14 Ward Pl, Colombo 7 Spa Ceylon is the most wellestablished spa and Ayurvedic product manufacturer in Sri Lanka, with shops and spas all over the island. WHITE is the ultimate favourite out of all the Spa Ceylon establishments. They use their own signature products and the masseuses are very skilled. After the treatments, don’t forget to stock up on Spa Ceylon products to take home.

Jami-ul Alfar Mosque (Red Mosque) 2nd Cross Street, Colombo 1 Built in 1908 and located in Pettah, one of the oldest districts of Colombo, the famous Red Mosque is an architectural wonder. With its distinct red and white patterns and its magnificent domes, the mosque is a must-visit when in the city.

Pettah Market There’s no better place to get a flavor of local life in Colombo than the bustling Pettah Market, where everything from fresh produce to knick-knacks and souvenirs, fabric and electronics is for sale. Like any other Asian markets, expect crowds, chaos, haggling – and a memorable experience.

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TALK OF THE TOWN LAHORE

Musical Evening Dr Nilofer Mahdi, daughter of Syed Wajid Ali and President of the All Pakistan Music Conference, seeks to nurture and promote musical talent that has traditionally been located in Lahoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Old City. She strives to revive the original music culture and talent that the city was once renowned for. Every month she hosts a beautiful mehfil at the Syed Wajid Ali Haveli giving performers a platform to display ancient music skills and showcase new vocal performers. It is a treat for cultural enthusiasts and music lovers alike, attracting the creme of Lahore.

Dr. Nilofer Mahdi, President of the All Pakistan Music Conference

Tehseen Sakeena

Imran Peerzada

Captain Atta Muhammad Khan, Chief Executive of Lahore Art Council, with his family

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Baba Ghulam Sarwar

Justice Nasira Iqbal

Mano Bibi and Farida Ali Khan

Shahnaz Aijazuddin

Asad Ali Khan

Mohsin Faraz

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TALK OF THE TOWN SEOUL

Pakistan-Korea Culture, Food & Business Forum Embassy of Pakistan and International Food and Culture Exchange Association of Korea co-hosted the first Pakistan-Korea Culture, Food and Business Forum. The event was attended by more than 100 Korean businesses and dignitaries.

Pakistan Ambassador to Korea Rahim Hayat Qureshi

Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ambassador to South Korea, Rahim Hayat Qureshi, while speaking at the event highlighted that Pakistan and Korea shared many similarities. Both became independent shortly after the Second World War after a long period of colonial rule. These similarities between the countries also extend to the people and culture as both highly respect their elders and teachers, and enjoy great devotion to families.

Ryoo Hyun-mi, Chairperson International Food and Culture Exchange Association Korea, Shafiq Haider and Sooba Khan

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Rahim Hayat Qureshi with Ryoo Hyun-mi

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