for people going places
SEPT-NOV, 2014 NZ. $9.90 AUS. $9.95
BRANSON’S BOLDEST
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SEPT-NOV 2014 Contents
WHAT’S INSIDE iAGE SPECIAL FEATURE 26. Virgin galactic To the heavens with WhiteKinghtTwo and a shuttlecock
32. richard branson It’s serious fun above the atmosphere Where limitless vision and boundless skies promise to take the ‘common man’
36. STEPHEN ATTENBOROUGH
32.
Space as a commerical venture Stephen Attenborough on the reality of getting Virgin Galactic to lift-off
40. Spaceport america The consquistadors of the stars Once the testing ground for atomic bombs, the Jornada del Muerto basin is now opening up far more peaceful frontiers
42. iage photoshoot Planet earth 2045 and the space race to Mars
42.
56. Fastforward on technology From science-fiction to science-fact
62. high on hotels Designed for the tourists of tomorrow
COLUMNS 20. FOR PEOPLE GOING PLACES Profiling interesting people from around the world
144. BAZAAR Keeping up with travel news
62.
SEPT-NOV 2014 Contents
WHAT’S INSIDE TRAVEL STORYBOOK 68. india The contrasts between the dusty and the vibrant Brian Furbish captures the visual moods and essence of Rajasthan
78. MYANMAR Into the light with Nick Walton
88. ECUADOR
78.
The tea of life Brian Furbish sips pure energy from a plant that offers new life to village communities in Ecuador
96. HONG KONG Yin and Yang Michael Hooper’s health is scrutinised and he explores a contrasting world of skyscrapers and alabaster dolphins
104. DUBAI Hermine Banks in Aladdin’s tale
110. SLOVENIA
68.
Small is beautiful Scott Alexander Young is enchanted by this small country
118. WEST COAST, New ZeALAND The West Coast’s poor cousin Stephen Brown discovers the hidden riches of the Buller region
126. MARGARET RIVER, AUSTRALIA The bountiful corner Glenn A. Baker finds much more than great red wine in a remote corner of Australia
118.
138. TONGA A flash in the corner of the eye Andrew Allen avoids flying fish and tries swimming inside a deep Tongan cave
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Publisher Stephen Brown Editor Rowena Bahl Editor-at-large Glenn A. Baker Contributing Editor Michael Hooper Contributors Nick Walton, Scott Alexander Young, Brian Furbush, Hermine Banks, Robert Trathen, Craig Cartwright, Alison Brewer, Andrew Allen, Mark Barrat-Boyes, Anna Vargheze, Jorge Alfaro, Scott Stulberg, Jessie Kollen, Grega Kapun, Daniel Martin, Alex Martin, Christian Fletcher Branding & Template Design One Design Graphic Consultant Helen Scott Marketing Director Cola Larcombe Sales Manager Imrana Izamullah Accounts Executive Shannon Lawton Editorial Interns Jacqueline Dickson, Jillian Leach Printed by McCollams Print
8 / Details
Distribution Print: Netlink, Admail Online: PressReader, Zinio, Magzter Subscriptions subs@destinationsmagazine.com +64 9 377 1234 Editorial Enquiries editorial@destinationsmagazine.com Artwork artwork@destinationsmagazine.com Destinations Publishing Ltd Destinations is a registered trademark of Destinations Publishing Ltd. Destinations publishes seven editions each year. Quarterly: Destinations Annually: Wedding Destinations, Wine Destinations and Cruise Destinations The contents of all are copyright and cannot be reproduced without the consent of the editor. Destinations Publishing Ltd’s acceptance of all contributed material, words, images and illustrations, is on the basis that these will be used internationally in all forms of the magazine’s distribution and marketing, be that print, digital or social networking.All articles, images and illustrations submitted will remain open for reading, reference and retrieval without time limit through all forms of distribution. All material is received on this basis only. Contact Physical: Level 4, 156 Parnell Road, Parnell, Auckland 1151 Postal: PO Box 137-067, Parnell, Auckland 1151 Creative by Rowena Bahl “Cover Retouching” by Mark Creaghan
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SEPT-NOV 2014 Our Word
10 / Our Word
EDITOR’S WORD
Our minds seem to jump between three frames of existence; past, present and future. I for one spend half my time between the past and the future, present moments only brought on by tasks which require physical action. We can all do that as much as we like, but the fact remains, unless we take the required action, our future will cease to exist. This edition of Destinations magazine we have let ourselves run a little wild by exploring where our present moments are taking us.
I FEEL HUMANITY IS ON THE BRINK OF YET ANOTHER REVOLUTION. We look at the Virgin Galactic project, through which we explore space travel; a reality that is closer than we might imagine. In the words of a man who is about to boldly go where no man has gone before - “Space is a challenging environment to master, but we’ve now got 50 years worth of evidence that it can be done. And the unique challenges of spaceflight teach us an incredible amount about physiology, in a way that benefits life here on Earth”. Richard Branson’s words thrill me as I feel humanity is on the brink of yet another revolution. As thrilling as it is, we also have to think about the realities of such ventures. It does not mean we down tools and stop progressing, but I believe we need to be prepared when the gates of human
space flight are opened at a commerical level. After a revolution, things can move fairly quickly, which is what brings me to our feature photoshoot. The Destinations team travelled to White Island where we staged a photo shoot featuring futuristic fashion designs from Shakuhachi, Zambesi, Nick Von K and emerging Whitecliffe fashion design student, Jorge Alfaro. The advances we are making in commercial space flight had captured my imagination, and I wanted people to think about the very real issues that could come up once the space gates are opened. Will we fight for land the way we always have? Will the opening of the space gates bring on another World War? How will we manage the greatest technological revolution of all time? Unexpectedly though, the shoot also made me realize that even as we turn our gaze to the stars, we might occasionally find ourselves neglecting the far more immediate, and ultimately important, wonders found in our own ‘backyard’. While White Island might well remind us of another planet, it also reminds us of the chaotic way in which our own planet was formed and the frailty of human life in such harsh environments. Finally, I really hope that this magazine excites by opening up the possibilities of space travel for the ‘common man’ in the near future and inspires readers to get out and look around their very own third stone from the sun. No space suit required.
Rowena Bahl - Editor
SEPT-NOV 2014 Our Word
PUBLISHER’S WORD a nagging feeling that both roles ultimately have much the same aim – to reveal to New Zealanders and the global community just what a wonderful planet we live on, how precious it is, and how vulnerable too. In this context, I am mindful of a passage in the “Environment” section of Virgin Galactic’s website, which states that human actions are already pushing humankind to the brink of needing off-planet resources to survive. That’s fine for those who can afford such a drastic “remedy”, but for most of us any salvation will necessarily come in the form of a better understanding of the interaction between humankind and nature, and greater appreciation of what this truly wonderful spaceship called Earth already has to offer.
AFTER ALL, WHO WOULD WANT TO BE A MAGAZINE PUBLISHER IN THIS AGE OF DIGITAL EVERYTHING; MORE TO THE POINT, WHO WOULD ACTUALLY CHOOSE TO BECOME ONE Well strangely enough, I seem to have cast myself in precisely that role – which has had some of my friends and colleagues wondering if I’m either destined for a lunatic reality show focussing on desert island “survivors” circled by predatory accountants and bank managers, or if I’m about to go completely nuclear a la Michael Douglas in his 1993 film “Falling Down”. To date, neither has quite occurred. In fact, the transition from my previous incarnation as a landscape architect to magazine impresario has been surprisingly smooth. Perhaps my love of writing, photography and travel has just a little to do with this; but at the back of my mind there’s also
Reflecting this ambition, Destinations has already embarked on new adventures to far-flung corners of the planet, so that our brilliant contributors – both writers and photographers – can welcome readers to their world. Technology and the way in which a magazine is presented may change, but its fundamental reason for being remains to inform, tantalise, and challenge – putting a microscope on the dizzying array of global travel spots that beckon those with the urge to get up and go. While New Zealand Australia and the South Pacific will remain Destinations’ backyard, both the magazine and website will reach across the world to disseminate words and images that entice the adventurous of spirit and heart. Destinations does not focus on resorts or hotels, nor does it set out to promote, although that doesn’t stop us waxing lyrical about people, places, even ways of getting there, that deserve it. In fact, some of our destinations may step well outside most travellers’ comfort zones, and diversity will remain a key theme – both in relation to where we take our readership and what we say about those journeys. Regardless, I can promise that the views expressed in Destinations will, as ever, be intelligent and honest, and that our search for new and different adventures will be relentless. Who wouldn’t want to be a travel magazine publisher now? Welcome to my world. Stephen Brown - Publisher
11 / Our Word
In this issue, contributing editor Michael Hooper stretches out his tongue for inspection by a traditional Chinese doctor and causes consternation about his balance of yin and yang – or perhaps just his café latte intake. I have to admit that vaguely similar images related to things medical and lying down have assaulted my senses over recent weeks, although most of them seem to be strongly associated with lying prone on a bed in a stiff white jacket with arm restraints, while a bearded sage solemnly shakes his head from side to side. After all, who would want to be a magazine publisher in this age of digital everything; more to the point, who would actually choose to become one?
Yet, 2014 is not just a time for personal reflection; it is also a year of change for Destinations. After more than 17 years, the magazine has survived my arrival and the emergence of a new generation of editorial, production and sales personnel. It has also undergone extensive design analysis and therapy in the skilful hands of an award winning team at One Design. The first “new” edition of Destinations will explore the very latest in augmented reality – in fact, a major step towards the eventual merger of print and digital media – through the use of “Layar”, while our website is also undergoing extensive surgery that will roll out over the coming months. These changes to Destinations’ web profile and content are aimed at firmly establishing Destinationsmagazine. com as a global portal for information on all aspects of travel.
26 / iAge Feature
TO THE HEAVENS WITH WHITE KNIGHT TWO AND A SHUTTLE COCK
BY STEPHEN BROWN
27 / iAge Feature
32 / iAge Feature
IT’S SERIOUS FUN ABOVE THE ATMOSPHERE - RICHARD BRANSON’S LIMITLESS SKY
33 / iAge Feature
36 / iAge Feature
THE CLEAR INTENTIONS OF A COMMERICAL VENTURE - STEPHEN ATTENBOROUGH ON VIRGIN GALACTIC
37 / iAge Feature
42 / iAge Feature
43 / iAge Feature
44 / iAge Feature
HE IS FIRST TO LAND And thus rams his flag on the barren basalt wasteland. In an age where political, economical and social unrest are a norm once more, he knows that this claim is still far from secure. With his nemesis just hours behind him, Space War One is about to commence. photographer robert trathen Creative director rowena bahl creative hybrid jorge alfaro Hair and Makeup Design by Alison Brewer using MAC and Schwarzkopf Osis Hair Products with the assistance of Boyana Golubovich make up special effects using BodyFX RAY GUNS PROVIDED BY WETA WORKSHOP designed BY greg Broadmore special thanks to daniel and alex martin FROM DELIVERANCE FOR VIDEO SHOWREEL LOCATion WHITE ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND which comes with patrick o’ sullivan, the white island expert
45 / iAge Feature
colin wears the aurora collection by jorge alfaro jewellery by nick von K
46 / iAge Feature
47 / Travel Storybook
craig wears the aurora collection by jorge alfaro jewellery by nick von K
56 / Section Name
FAST FORWAD ON
TRAVEL TECHNOLOGY These days it’s hard to keep track of all of the new innovations out there, so in keeping with the theme of this magazine we explore inventions that make us feel like we are living in tomorrow. While the Jetsons’ flying car and Marty McFly’s floating skateboard are probably some way off in the future, these products and ideas demonstrate that science-fiction is becoming science-fact before our very eyes.
BY CRAIG CARTWRIGHT
57 / iAge Feature
ABOVE Oculus VR, Virtual Reality
THE CONTRASTS BETWEEN THE
68 / Travel Storybook
DUSTY AND THE VIBRANT
INDIA A PHOTO ESSAY BY BRIAN FURBUSH
69 / Travel Storybook
70 / Travel Storybook
left A shop owner enjoys the early evening’s hustle and bustle as we whiz past in a tuk-tuk, Jodhpur, Rajasthan
71 / Travel Storybook
78 / Travel Storybook
INTO THE LIGHT
M YA N M A R STORY BY NICK WALTON PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT STULBERG
79 / Travel Storybook
THE
118 / Travel Storybook
WEST COAST’S “POOR COUSIN”
Story and photography by STEPHEN BROWN
119 / Travel Storybook
120 / Travel Storybook
below The rock pools and shelving of the Te Miko coastline, north of Punakaiki
For many of those visiting New Zealand’s South Island each year, the West Coast is simply an alternative route to and from Lake Wanaka and Queenstown – a mad rush between Greymouth and the Haast Pass, interspersed with short breaks at a select few attractions on the way – the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers, the reflective waters of Lake Matheson and the pancake rocks at Punakaiki. Few venture much further afield. Location: west coast, south island, NEW ZEALAND Which is most unfortunate, because the Buller District – sitting at the very top of the West Coast – is also an area that, more than most, captures the very essence and enigma of much of the “Coast”: the home of past gold rushes and coal mining, a place of remote towns and coastal settlements where a complex matrix of ecosystems and landscapes are concertinaed together: ocean beaches, lakes and wetlands, primeval forests, tussock covered foothills, and the snow-capped mantle of the Kahurangi Ranges. It is also a place renowned for its tempestuous climate and periods of endless rain. But when those heavy clouds lift, it can also be a place of tantalising beauty, which evokes that most indefinable of qualities we call “character”. Yes, the Buller certainly has both. Like most of the rest of the Coast, the foundation for much of its appeal is clearly found in the drama of its natural elements, both
121 / Travel Storybook
ABOVE Looking northwards along the coast towards Punakaiki village, from the dramatic pancake rock formations that Punakaiki is so renowned for