Why Is Italian Food So Good In Cabo?

Golfing, whale watching, and sport fishing- as well as drinking and partyinghave long been the main pastimes while vacationing in Los Cabos. In recent years, though, our region has become a favorite destination for foodies who seek to indulge in a wide range of culinary delights. The eclectic Mexican gastronomy is, of course, the cream of the crop. When in Mexico, eat as Mexicans do, right? However, we dare say that no visitor should leave Cabo without having had at least one Italian dinner.

Everybody likes Italian food! It's not a cliché. It actually ranked number one on the global list of the best cuisines of the Food Atlas Award for 2022. Believe it or not, Italian food is especially good in Cabo! Why is that? Could it be because the chefs strictly adhere to Grandma's traditional recipes? Or is it because they import original ingredients from the homeland to guarantee that proverbial authenticity? Surprisingly enough, the chefs we met are drifting away from “made in Italy” and embracing the “made here” mentality, in line with the locavore (local + vore as in carnivore) philosophy that is spreading everywhere among people driven by ethical and health reasons.

For Emanuele Olivero, chef at the restaurant Riccio di Mare at Solaz Resort, the only products imported from Italy are those labeled DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) that protect regionally produced food such as Parmigiano Reggiano, Gorgonzola cheese, Prosciutto di Parma and Mascarpone, which is a must in Tiramisù, from imitation. All other ingredients are gathered from what this land and its sea have to offer. And with a traditional Italian recipe in mind, Olivero envisions a new dish, enriched by fresh, regional ingredients. It just so happens that epazote, a plant native to Central America with a pungent taste, is used instead of some Italian aromatic herbs that are strong in flavor. Whether fresh or dried, it is a condiment that adds a twist to some classic Italian dishes, like green frittata (veggie omelet) and especially in the filling of handmade pasta like ravioli. Another important ingredient in the filling is grated cheese, usually parmesan or pecorino. But at our latitude, cotija cheese works pretty well in some pasta dishes. Even nopales, which are not even close to being a traditional Italian ingredient, have found a place on the chef's menu, as he has used the prickly pear leaves in place of green beans in one of his creations.

“It is not possible to recreate the exact taste of a dish when you are not using endemic ingredients”, Olivero states. “That dish is so flavorsome in its place of origin because it was made from fresh ingredients that grew there. Here, instead, my aim is to provide my customers with a memorable culinary experience with fresh and genuine products from the place where we live”. Even the coffee, which for Italians is more a cultural trait than a tradition, is roasted in Todos Santos. Similarly, Giulio Lupori, chef at The Villa Group, agrees that the concept of authenticity of Italian cuisine is shifting towards honesty when cooking abroad. “Authenticity is the essence of the dish and it lies more in the technique than the ingredients” he says. “For example, the secret of a great pizza is in the wood oven and the dough, not the toppings”. According to him, the technical details in the production process ensure the authenticity everyone longs for. What lends flavor to a pizza is the texture of the dough that is obtained by using a natural yeast starter. The acidity in the sourdough starters not only gives the right consistency to the bread, but also enriches its taste. When it comes to the sauce, some pizza makers may opt for original Italian canned tomatoes preserved and imported from The Boot, while others prefer to prepare the sauce with fresh Saladette tomatoes, grown and ripened beneath the sun of Todos Santos. Then, everyone can “play” with the toppings. Lupori tells us about how he has used aguacate in dishes that cover a full meal. Avocado is not typically present in traditional Italian cookbooks, but in this region the “Alligator pear” claims the right to be part of a mixed salad, either diced or mashed in a dressing. Cut in half and grilled or broiled was a creative proposal to garnish a Fiorentina Steak. And guess what?

The ubiquitous green butter fruit helps make a very special chocolate mousse for dessert.

These chefs’ passion for the “made here” mentality has driven them to experiment with local raw materials in a do-it-yourself production of Italian style cold cuts, like guanciale (cured pork cheek), goose breast bresaola, and lamb prosciutto. Olivero still makes homemade mozzarella cheese! Perhaps Italian chefs are not as

by Cristina Galullo

patriotic as we thought. They stick to tradition to ensure the authenticity of the dish but become flexible in order to avoid using processed, canned, or frozen ingredients. They buy fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, and seafood from local growers, which forces them to get creative with their recipes.

The perfect example of the convergence of the two cultures is a mango or pitaya flavored gelato (Italian style ice cream). It fits our summer temperatures so well! Can you think about anything more local and seasonal than the pitaya fruit?

These gastro experts not only create a dining experience focused on freshness, local tastes, and seasonal produce, but also contribute to reducing the carbon footprint and helping the economy of their own community. Once again, when it is about doing the right thing, nature leads the way.