FREE
GRATIS
The Lifestyle Magazine of Baja California Sur
Mar de CortĂŠs
Magestic Copper Canyon Explore Sonora Stem Cell Healing
Todos Santos Music Festival THE BEST PLACE ON EARTH
Photo: Susan Carol
Home of the Tarahumara Indians
FROM THE PUBLISHER
MOVEMENT...
The Seven+ billion people on this planet right now don’t all have jobs. So what to do with their time? They can research and gather and talk and question the state of things, and compare opinions and look for the real truth. It takes time and energy and commitment to stand up to massive theft happening at every level of existence, world wide. What is the next move in the evolutionary social path of humans? wheww, makes one want to go on vacation! The region around the Mar de Cortés is easy to access, and full of places to discover and hang out and be with nature instead of the craziness of the world. The first adventure into the Copper Canyon Mountains is just a tickler to expose the rugged geography and inspire further study and travel to find its many wonders. So many people around Los Cabos shared their desire to visit the Copper Canyon area, I helped design the 6-day ideal “first taste” tour for Baja Sur travelers, that follows my personal experience. You’ll see it inside - Destino Magazine “Presents” Tours. Its a must do experience! This issue takes a drive around our Sea of Cortez neighbor, Sonora. A beautiful State with some gorgeous, remote beaches like Puerto Peñasco, and lush mountain areas like Pueblo Magico town Alamos. A center of Universities and Medical centers there is significant exchange of Baja residents with Sonora. A very exciting opening is the new Haima Stem Cell Therapy Center in San José. A successful center for regenerative therapy in Tijuana, a nearby tourist center was a natural extension! The influx of northerners over the years has evolved into the most amazing charity fund raising events. The Todos Santos Music Festival motivated by REM band member Peter Buck, rocked the town for 3 weeks raising $35,000 usd! The annual LigaMAC Jazzfest Late March with Martha and the Vandellas, and the Lorena Ochoa charity golf tournament in late April, will generate significant monies go ing directly to those in need. We are all in this community Susan Carol overlooking together! the Urique canyon in the Copper Canyon region of Sierra Madre Mts
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Susan Carol
DESTINO LOS CABOS
Features
Local Favorites
Restaurants In this Average Entree Price: $ =($1-5) / $$ = ($6-10) $$$ = ($11-15) / $$$$ =($15-20) / $$$$$ = ($20+)
SAN JOSE DEL CABO
Issue
From the farm to the table. The restaurant serves healthy dishes with seasonal ingredients directly from their farm and from local farmers.
Deckman’s $$$$
harsh and rugged. Home of the Tarahumara Indians.
Chef Drew Deckman only chooses local sustainable ingredients to create his culinary masterpieces. Live music! Costa Azul.
The Town plaza of Pueblo Magio town is surrounded by stunning architecture of a palace, a church and many mansions.
CABO SAN LUCAS Sunset Da Mona Lisa $$$$$ The views over Cabo and the arch are unbeatable. Italian chef Salvatore Messina will take you on a gastronomic adventure. h12 Tribes Restaurant $$$$$ 12 Tribes offers a mix of flavors from around the world. Heaven for the Anthropologist of food. Esquina Restaurant/Bar $$$$ Chef Laurent Amaury Saussy only uses organic and locally grown produce and local fish for his exquisite international creations. Los Cabos Winery/Bar $$$$ Their own wine cellar with unique blends to accompany their fresh, creative presentations. Number 1 in Tripadvisor Seafood & Steak House.
TODOS SANTOS Tre Galline $$$$ A huge list of appetizers and soups, as well as fish, meat, poultry, and vegetarian dishes. North Italian influence. Zen Garden $$$ Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese and traditional Japanese dishes. For more details, maps, contact info and photos Please visit “Restaurants”
Destino Magazine “Presents”
Tours!
Information at destinoloscabos.com
Destino Magazine Destino Magazine “Presents” “Presents” Copper Canyon Tour First Day: Fly from Cabo or La Paz Los Mochis airport. Transfer by van to Pueblo Magico town, El Fuerte. 1 hour
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DESTINO LOS CABOS s a de c v
San José Del Cabo, BCS Ph (011 52) (624) 142-4949
email: destinoloscabos@gmail.com
14 years we’ve experienced the great adventures around Baja and the Mar de Cortés, and shared them on our pages. Now we’re offering them in special tours with touches we especially like. Easy booking through online travel agency: Baja.com
“You are going to love this specially designed tour” Susan Carol, Publisher, Destino
p.23
Aging 101 Roberto Balderrama Private Banking
Announcing!
DISCOVER THE COPPER CANYON! 6 Day Adventure from Cabo or La Paz!
future, with quaint towns, and remote beaches and northern factories attracted to cheaper educated labor.
The biggest town at the highest elevation in the Barrancas del cobre. The meeting place for tours into the wilderness.
Beach Map & Dive Chart 8 14 Baja Renaissance Mother-Earth Approved 16
Passaparola Italian Bistro $$$ Features some of the most creative Italian dishes a truly Italian chef can put on your table. T
Sonora p.30 A State booming into the Creel
El Fuerte p.24
Habanero’s Gastro and Grill $$$ The menu is extensive and the food consistently delicious. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
7 Seas at the Cabo Surf Hotel $$$$ Beach front dining. Creative menus with the freshest ingredients and excellent service. Live music, full moon dinner events.
p.26
Exploring Mexico Copper Canyon p.20 Magestic, mysterious,
Flora Field Kitchen $$$
VV (Villa Valentina) Restaurante $$$ Surrounded by Mexican fine furniture and art, this 2-story restaurant has ocean views on top, and Spanish influenced cuisine for 3 meals daily.
New Stem cell Clinic p.6 Rock n roll rem style p.11 The Tarahumara
Swim with sea lions Day Tour
ISSUE 48 Spring 2012 Printed in USA. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the publisher. © 2012 Destino Inc. Numero 48 Primavera 2012 Todos los derechos reservados por Destino Los Cabosprohibidalareproducióntotaloparcialdel contenidosinpreviaautorizaciónporescritodelos editores. © 2012 Destino Los Cabos SA de CV DESTINO: LOS CABOS welcomes all written and photographic material. We cannot guarantee return. Rights to publish unsolicited material are retained for 12 months. Circulation throughout Southern Baja’ y Sea of Cortez. For advertising rates and placement, Please contact: destinoloscabos@gmail.com
Snorkel with the Sea Lion Colony
On Espiritu Island Experience one of the most Secondliving”, Day: Overnight Mision Hotel and daily is aatphysical 07:45 Transfer hotel/ to train Station at El Fuerte memorable days of your life! mental artleaves form that celebrates 08:30 Train to Bahuichvio 08:40 American breakfast on board the train. (included) theArrival connection of transfer oneself “After living in La Paz for over eighteen years, I always 12:30 to Bahuichivo and to Cerocahui (45 Min) say “ to truly appreciate the true beauty of La Paz, you 13:30 Lunch at Mision Hotel Included. with the natural and school. need to look beneath the surface!” 16:00 Walking tour, visiting beauty church and boarding To take the trip to the sea lion colony at the north end 18:00 Happy hours drinks are not included (2 x 1) energy of the world around 19:00 Dinner at the Hotel (included) of the island of the “ Holy Ghost” or Espiritu Santo is just off the coast of La Paz and is simply breath taking us. As a moving meditation, Third Day: Overnight at Mirador Hotel where dramatic scenery of the desert meets sea views. 07:00 American Breakfast The journey takes just over an hour to get there but T’ai Ji helps the practitioner 08:00 Tour to Gallegos Overlook point (3 hours) once we do you know about it! The barking of sea lions Check out go and to train cultivate station to11:30 recognize ch’i and flocks of birds above makes one feel that they have 12:30 Leave Posada Barrancas station landed in the Discovery Channel. S pend a day learning within him/herself and Hotel in their 14:15 Arrival and transfer to Mirador (5 min) We receive a short briefing from the guide and enter the 14:30 Lunch at Mirador hotel (included) T ai Ji with Chris C ampbell waters to be greeted by Brown Californian sea lion pups daily 16:00 Walking tour of thelife. area of Copper canyon (1 hour) ready for playtime. Overnight Historicgreat Posada del Hidalgo. No of meals included T’ai Ji,at“the ultimate
20 year teacher There are over two thousand marine species around
19:00 Dinner at the hotel (included)
Chungliang al Huang
Fourth Day: Second Overnight at Mirador Hotel
the island so snorkeling or free diving is a must.
Once back on the boat we go to the island for lunch and 8:00 American Breakfast RESERVE YOUR SPACEwalk TODAY! the pristine beach or even remain at the sea lion Full Day Class at: lake and San 09:00 Creel Tour visiting Arareko Ignacio Mision colony if you so wish.
Raices y Brazos San José info@raicesybrazos.org An experience of a lifetime and one that you will always cherish”. Saturday March 31 & Sunday April 1 624 142 3794 James Curtiss/ owner The Cortez Club Fifth Day: Overnight at Posada del hidalgo 10 AM 5 PM Includes Lunch 8:00 American Breakfast Espiritu Santo island tour Tour to1 Divisadero Overlook pesos Point (2 Hour) $10009:00pesos day - $1800 2 days 14:00 Lunch at the hotel (included) Free afternoon: optional horse tour or Overlook Point tours 19:00 Dinner at the hotel (included)
Optional Tram & Zip Line adventure 12:45 Transfer hotel to train station 13:00 Lunch on board the train (included) 19:00 Arrival at El Euerte train station and transfer to hotel 19:30 Dinner at Posada del Hidalgo hotel (included)
EMERGENCY NUMBERS Sixth Day: American Breakfast (included) 13:30 Transfer hotel to international airport of Los Mochis.
Police 066 Red Cross 065 Highway Service 074 COMPLETE PACKAGE Includes
Round Trip Air*: La Paz - Los Mochis or Cabo - Los Mochis
First Class Train Tickets to El Fuerte- Bahuichivo- Posada Barrancas - El Fuerte, 5 nights Hotel accommodations, 13 meals, all tours,
FIRE DEPARTMENT
all taxes, all transfers from airport, hotel and train. Total: per person in one room (2 double beds per room) Single $1710 Triple $1170 Double $1240 Quadruple $1135
Cabo San Lucas 143-3577 San José del Cabo 142-2466 Child (4 -11 years) $607
Depart: dock in La Paz at 8:30 am
One hour boat trip to Los Islotes, a group of small islands at the north of Espiritu Santo Island, year round home to a colony of over 350 curious California Brown Sea Lions! The pups are playful and great fun to swim with! You will see big schools of fish, reef fish, rays and more…! The site is home to over 4000 different marine species, with occasional visits from Dolphins and Whales.
Swim: Boat to the beach on Isla Partida, for Snorkeling & Swimming with Sea Lions.
VIP Lunch..A bed of organic salad with a lobster tail, smoked salmon and shrimp with wine and soft drinks.
Collect shells, or snorkel off the beach
Return 3 pm
*Most flights leave daily, Train and land tours leave daily
Destino Magazine “PRESENTS” Tour CALL toll-free 855-BAJA-411 or 612-145-0087 (2252)
Information
RESERVATIONS:
www.destinoloscabos.com
A one hour flight across the Sea to the gateway of the Copper Canyon! El Chepe is one of the most beautiful train rides in the world!
RESERVATIONS
BOOK IT NOW!
Destino Magazine “PRESENTS” Tour CALL toll-free 855-BAJA-411 or 612-145-0087 (2252)
www.destinoloscabos.com
Events
8th Annual Liga MAC charity JazzFest (March 23rd, 2012) On the beach at the Hilton Hotel, San José. 5:30-10 pm Headliner: Motown’s Martha Reeves and the Vandellas. Tickets: www.ligamacjazzfest.com Cost: US$150-US$350 Champagne Jam for Kids: Ray Thomas Foundation - (March 30) Casa Dorada Tai Ji Classes - The path to health and balance with the ancient dance of Tai Ji! (March 31 and April 1) Full Days with Lunch. Raices y Brazos Center San Jose (624) 142-3794 Register: info@raicesybrazos.org. Cabo Celebrity Invitational Charity Golf event with Lorena Ochoa and Hollywood and celebrity sports guests! (April 26-28, 2012) Registration: www.cabocelebrityinvitational.com Road Rally Mexicali to Cabo: NORRA Mexican 1000 Rally (April 28th, 2012) Drive the peninsula with a bunch of Baja lovers. Cost: US $1,600 per vehicle. Roy Clark 11th Annual Billfish Tournament (May 21-26) Palmas de Cortez Los Barriles, roy@clarksadventures.com The Baja Bash: Baja is Back! San Diego, USA (June 2nd, 2012) Port Pavilion on Broadway Pier, Wildcoast, the international conservation team, presents Baja Sur. G20 World Event; (June 18th and 19th, 2012) New Convention Center in San José. The most important political, financial and economic international summit. 3rd Annual Cabo Marine Show (July 5th - 7th, 2012) Three days of concerts and cocktail parties at the IGY Marina in Cabo. Ensenada Wine Festival (August) 3 weeks, events, tastings, live music throughout the Guadalupe Valley, North Baja. Bisbee’s Black & Blue Fishing Tournament (October 23rd - 27th, 2012) One of the highest paying fishing tournaments in Mexico, Cost: US $63,100 per boat.
Stem Cell Therapy Now available in Los Cabos
formed over 2000 procedures. They have a medical team with experts in This is exciting! Medical science has hematology, endocrinology, cardioladvanced to the level where we can ogy, neurosurgery, neurology, internal recharge our aging bodies, rebuild our medicine, orthopedic, surgery, pediatrics, autoimtorn and dammune diseases, aged muscles chronic degenand ligaments erative diseases, and strengthen pathology our immune and cosmetic systems to aid surgery who healing from are all trained cancer treatin the culture ment. Adult and handling stem cells harof stem cells. vested from The Tijuana our own bodclinic is boomies is the magic (left) Dr Miguel Angel Rolón, Plastic and ing, so now elixir of life! Reconstructive surgery, Dr. Jorge M Tagle, Medical is the time to Haima Director and Aesthetic surgeon and Dr James expand, and Stem Cell TherMcAllister orthopedic surgeon. Dr. Tagle chose apy Center Los Cabos as the first location to and Cryopreservation Laboratories bring equipment and staff! opened in Tijuana in 2000 to offer Its important to note, that the cutting edge medical technology and stem cell therapy offered is using specialized treatments involved with each individual’s stem cells, not doharvesting and administering stem nor embryonic cells, receiving press in cells. They are the only stem cell culture laboratory of its kind in North the USA. The procedure is relatively simple and custom designed for each America and have successfully perby Susan Carol
Mexico’s Medical Tourism Industry by: Lisa Coleman
According to recent statistics, over 59 million Americans do not have health insurance. That said, there is obviously a tremendous need for affordable alternatives for those requiring either minor or major surgery. Despite Mexico’s ongoing struggles, Mexico is feeling a positive impact from booming foreign investments while “Medical Tourism” is taking hold and bringing in
Cabo Celebrity Invitational Golf Event
XIX Annual Baja Haha (October 28th -November 10th, 2012) A two-week boat cruisers rally from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas. Cost: Registration begins at US$325. Todos Santos Music Festival January 2013. Art & Film Festival - February 2013 Mark your calendars!
For Further Information go to “Events” ...
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a new type of visitor and potentially millions of dollars to the economy. With the ease and afford ability of traveling south of the border, along with state-of-the-art facilities, current technology, US trained (English speaking) doctors and surgeons, and virtually no wait times, Mexico is quickly becoming a leader in this fast-growing industry. A forecast by Deloitte Consulting projected that medical tourism origi-
DESTINO LOS CABOS
April 26-28, 2012
Dream Homes of Cabo hosts Lorena Ochoa
World class golfers along with other sports and Hollywood celebrities will gather at Puerto Los Cabos Golf & Marina Resort. All proceeds from this charitable event will benefit the Lorena Ochoa foundation and various local charities.
To register for this fantastic event! www.cabocelebrityinvitational.com
patient based on the type of stem cells needed for treatment. Cells are collected from the blood, the bone marrow and the fat tissue. The various impurities are removed and the cells fortified for action then injected back into the body either locally in cases of specific injury or generally when immune system regeneration. Stem cells have the ability to recognize and replace deteriorated and damaged cells in the body. Their anti-aging treatment will result in new healthy cells creating a remarkable improvement in the functionality of the patient’s organs such as heart, kidneys, liver, eyes, etc, as well as better and increased physical and sexual performance. Goodbye Viagra! In areas of sports injuries, stem cell treatments injected directly into the damaged areas have promoted tissue regeneration. The beginning staff for the San José stem cell center, Dr. Tagle, Dr. Rolón and Dr. McAllister all speak English well and are enthusiastic and accomplished in their specialities. They offer free consultations in order to construct specific procedures for each patient. Their office in at Amerimed Hospital in San José and they have the stem cell processing equipment at this facility. For more information about Haima Stem Cell Therapy visit their web site. wwwhaimastemcelltherapy.com. nating in the US could jump by a factor of ten over the next decade. The growth in medical tourism has the potential to cost US health care providers billions of dollars in lost revenue and bring those huge dollars into a host of other countries including Mexico. A popular web site: www.medtogo.com Medical tourism is quickly becoming a safe, affordable option for thousands of patients, and Mexico is stepping onto the world stage as a contender. Elective medicine and dentistry cost one third less in Mexico.
As the Economy Lifts, So Do Wrinkled Faces
Plastic surgery is on the rise — and so is the economy, maybe. USA Today’s Healthy Perspective blog has a story about an increase in breast implants, tummy tucks, face lifts, and the like. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons estimates 1.6 million cosmetic surgeries in 2011. Plastic surgery numbers may not be perfect economic indicators – but they are going in the same upward direction as the stock market and employment rate, after falling during the recession. www.destinoloscabos.com
BEACH MAP
Isla Espiritu Santo
BAJA SUR
El Coyote El Tecolote
DIVING DESTINATIONS
Save Swim Gas Station
LAND’S END Intermediate-Advanced
Airport
Isla del Carmen
Balandra
Surf
50’-60’ and just 5 minutes by boat you’re swimming with sea lions and moray eels. Also a sunken boat can be seen in the Falls.
Windsurf
SAND FALLS Beginners - Advanced
Pichilingue
El Tesoro Marina Costa Baja Coromuel
Fishing
La Paz
Bahia de La Ventana El Sargento La Ventana
AIRPORT
30’-100’ Steep sand banks go down sharply into a canyon filled wit tropical fish. A short boat ride from shore, the canyon runs from the depths of Cabo San Lucas bay to within 30 feet of shore, making the Bay one of the deepest in the world.
Whale Watching
PELICAN ROCK Beginners
Ensenada de los Muertos
HWY 1
Los Planes
25’-80’ Just 5 minute boat trip to this large rock that attracts many tropical fish.
Bahia de Los Sueños
NEPTUNE’S FINGER Advanced
Boca del Alamo San Antonio El Triunfo
80’-100’ Spectacular canyon wall dive.
CABEZA
Punta Pescadero
San Bartolo
HWY 1
Bahia de Las Palmas
HWY 19
DE
BALLENA Beginners
20’-40’ 25 minute boat ride to dive through large boulders with lots of fish
SANTA MARIA CAVE Beginners
Los Barriles Buena Vista
20’-40’ 35 minutes by boat, or dive from the beach. The entrance to Santa Maria canyon has a huge variety of fish who feed right from your hand
La Ribera Punta Colorada
Cañon de La Zorra Km 93
Pueblo Magico Km 55 Km 57 Km 59
Pescadero
Las Barracas
Santiago
Todos Santos Punta Lobos Las Palmas San Pedrito
Punta Arena
Agua Caliente
Cabo Pulmo
Miraflores Los Frailes
Km 65
Cerritos
HWY 1
Art & Beer
Boca del Salado Palo Escopeta
HWY 19
Vinorama
AIRPORT
Migriño
Cabo Pulmo Marine Park
Km100
San José del Cabo
La Fortuna
La Playa
Santa Cruz Punta Gorda Puerto La Laguna
CHILENO
TWIN DOLPHIN Beginners 20’-40’ 35 minutes boat ride and a sandy and rocky bottom. PARKING Lots of turtles sited here, tropical fish, night dives DIVE CENTER • RENTALS • TRIPS
EL GAVILAN Intermediate - Advanced 70’-100’ 35 minutes boat time. Rocky ledge leading into a canyon where groupers and larger fish are often sited.
BLOW HOLE Beginners – Advanced 30’-70’ 35 minutes boat ride from San Lucas, or just 10 minutes from Chileno beach. Rocky valleys present a variety of fish.
LAS SALINAS Beginners
30’-45’ 1.4 hours by boat from San Lucas, or 1 hour by boat from La Playita. A sunken Japanese fishing boat attracts a large assortment of fish.
Los Cabos
Pacific Ocean
COSTCO
Cabo San Lucas
Costa Azul Km 28 Palmilla Km 27 El Tule Km 15.5 Chileno Km 14.5 Santa Maria Km 13 Monuments Km 5
El Medano Lover’s Beach
Destino Los Cabos S. A. de C.V. © 2010
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DESTINO LOS CABOS
GORDO BANKS Advanced 110’-120’ 1 hour boat from La Playita, there is a seamount where you can see Marlin, Hammerheads, Skip Jacks and at times huge Manta.
CABO PULMO Beginner-Advanced
Sea of Cortez
30’-100’ 2 hour drive East of San José then 5 minutes by boat you’ll find the only living coral reef in the Sea of Cortez. Note: travel time is from Cabo San Lucas marina
www.destinoloscabos.com
1st Annual Charity Fund Raiser
Todos Santos Music Festival
by Tim Doyle Photos Susan Carol
As the final notes played the last song of the 1st Annual Todos Santos Music Festival, “a little angel” from Todos Santos was prompted to pledge another “matching fund” donation of $10,000 usd for “One More Song!” from R.E.M. guitarist Peter Buck and friends! The grand finale confirmed that Todos Santos was truly a “Pueblo Magico” especially when Peter Buck signed a matching funds pledge check of $10,000 usd for charity. So marked the 1:30 AM ending of the highly successful fund-raiser with Peter Buck, the man behind it all. Residents and visitors were treated to twelve nights of incredible rock ‘n roll by some of the best musicians in the world! A special group of rockers that included English singer-songwriter Robyn Hitchcock, guitarist songwriter, Steve Wynn and his percussionist wife Linda Pitmon, versatile musician Scott McCaughey, R.E.M. drummer Bill Rieflin and R.E.M. bass guitarist, Mike Mills, all joined Peter Buck on stage. The introduction of new players each weekend of the festival created an element of expectation and surprise. The afford ability of the concerts attracted locals including Mexicanos with attendance growing with each successive performance. All loved the contrasting guitar styles of John Ramberg, Fernando Viciconte, Blake Sennett, Kevn Kinney, and Chuck Prophet. Many cheered for our local rockers from Flashback and the Guaycura bands. There were visitors in town from many locations, due to R.E.M’s web site. No one ever left a festival session disappointed, including the folks from England, Columbia, Belgium, France, Germany, and Mexico City who came to Todos Santos particularly for this event. The Palapa Society was the beneficiary of this festival. The funds will be used for educational costs, as well 10
DESTINO LOS CABOS
as other projects for Todos Santos children. Three months of hard work from Palapa Society board members along with Peter Buck’s representatives and Hotel California management personnel, paid off with a fantastic $35,000 usd raised! The faithful volunteers, Delegation of La Paz and Todos Santos, the Hotel California, as well as other individu-
Peter Buck with Alejandro Blanco, director of Hotel California, the venue for most of the Festival’s music performances
als and groups along with Peter Buck and his generous musician friends will all be involved with planning for next January’s festival. This is a true music happening that is a “must experience” for rock n roll fans! The children need ongoing donations, so please contact www.palapasociety.org.
www.destinoloscabos.com
Photos Calude Vogel
R.E.M with local musical talent rocks todos santos music festival From the Heart Interview Peter Buck, Guitarist REM by, Nanette Hayles
Peter Buck came from a small town,
Athens Georgia, in the southern United States. His small town sensibilities and upbringing would be the foundation of his life. He shared he “lived a life of fame, travel, financial security etc., but was never fooled by our mainstream cultural agenda”. He knows what truly matters in life. Chloe (Peter Buck’s companion), Alejandro Blanco of the Hotel California and myself agreed with Peter’s view that we all, at some time or another in our lives, fall victim to the indoctrination of popular Western cultural belief system that often dictates through the media what is important. Peter emphasized that he never lost sight of his childhood value of the importance of education nor of
www.destinoloscabos.com
one’s responsibility to family and community. Peter and Chloe also value and recognize that each person and their respective communities can define and assess their own needs for themselves and this is the driving force behind their humanitarian projects. Peter, as well as the other members of the REM band, has reverence for the “little assessments” as well as the big ones, which can make or break the happiness and well being of person and/or a community. These beliefs are further reflected in the projects they funded, from little league baseball uniforms and food for the homeless to legal advice for environmental issues. Peter stressed that ALL proceeds of his charities, as well as those of R.E.M., are to go directly to the person or group for whom they intended and not towards the intended group’s leader or treasury. Peter expressed “we are adamant about this”. Historically, based on REM research and You Tube interviews, these are the very reasons why their type of charity is respected
by the public. Peter’s philosophy and rock solid position of consistency in charity matters extended to Todos Santos. Peter explained his reasons for choosing the Palapa Society was for the very reason he chooses any beneficiary of his efforts, the funds will go exactly where it is needed. In this case for scholarship and other educational programs for the children and youth of Todos Santos. Peter and Chloe are already part of the community, not just because they gave benefit concerts or helped establish the Todos Santos Music Festival, or helped a local charity, but because they have bonded and made new friends. ALL this was accomplished because of a simple, old fashion, homegrown quality… kindness, something Peter proudly admits, he has never forgotten from his small town upbringing. In thinking back on that mellow evening with Peter, Chloe and Alejandro, I realized Peter’s true strength, is that he’s “from the heart”!
Art Class
Join us to learn the art of paper tile mosaic FULL DAY CLASS with artist N.E. Hayles Azia assisting In their lush sub-tropical garden studio Home made organic lunch included.
Gallery N.E. Hayles Introduces
New Artist - Azia
Veteran resident Todos Santos artist N.E. Hayles introduces her daughter Azia Elaine to her gallery. Azia has been drawing and painting since early childhood. In her works, “Azia gracefully bridges a sense of the surreal with the real. Her natural multicultural inclination, sense of color and articulation of “higher” meaning is reflected throughout her works”. ART CLASS • Price $85 U.S. • Hours 9 to 5 Dates: April 21 and May 19. Class is limited to 15. Book now! nehayles@gmail.com
DESTINO LOS CABOS
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$25 GOLF?
Las Residencias Golf Resort
This
project is for golfers only! A unique property offering by long term Los Cabos sales visionary John Parks created a high end luxury condo was built in the exclusive Casa del Mar beach and golf development on the corridor. When the economy took a downturn and all local sales stopped. John saw an opportunity and the Questro Group agreed. Los Cabos golfers could really appreciate a luxury beach property they could purchase by the week that includes an attractive golf package. This is now called Las Residencias. The gorgeous architecture, 2700 - 3200 square feet of ocean vista space, quality furnishings, concierge services and all the Questro golf courses - Cabo Real and Puerto Los Cabos as part of the package. Over 65 contracts are already sold since opening October 2011. The Casa del Mar property, next door to famous luxury resort Las Ventanas, also includes the Zoetry boutique hotel and restaurant and bar, Sueños del Mar Spa, and a Private Beach Club. The rest of the buildings on the property are full ownership condos priced in the $500,000 - $6 million price range, so the opportunity to purchase a week or two per year, at a very low price in comparison, for 50 years and 12 rounds of golf per week for $25 is very attractive.
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DESTINO LOS CABOS
Enviromass is Dedicated to a “Blue” Cabo by Christopher B. Mihm. Founder Cabo Recycles
Cabo is a unique place, and its diversity requires an equally unique company to lead the everevolving waste industry. As the inevitable growth in Cabo continues, our objective is to provide the community with a sustainable recycling infrastructure to keep the local environment clean. That is why we process the broadest spectrum of recycling in Los Cabos. Each month we manage over 20,000 pounds of clear and colored glass, plastics, paper, cardboard, metals, electronics, Styrofoam and edible oil. Who We Are:
Enviromass was founded in early 2011 by Christopher Mihm and Todd Massey with the goal to provide a professional and consistent recycling service in Los Cabos. Chris has a Masters Degree in Environmental Management and over 6 years working on international environmental projects in Sri Lanka, Africa, and Mexico. Chris also brings a valuable connection with Balcones Resources, one of the largest recycling companies in Texas, who has advised Enviromass activities.
What We have Acheived:
In March 2011, Enviromass started the largest curbside recycling program ever in Los Cabos with over 160 homes in Villas Del Mar, Palmilla. We professionally mapped out the entire Villas Del Mar community, and installed recycling bins for each home. Since then, our client list has rapidly grown to include other prestigious communities like El Dorado, Querencia, Cabo Real, and Palmilla Norte. We also recycle with many businesses such as Baja Blue, Don Sanchez, Snell Real Estate, and Pez Gato Cruise Boats among others. We also offer Curbside Recycling to any house anywhere in Los Cabos for only $100 pesos per month. We understand that a successful recycling program does not begin and end with collection alone. What sets Enviromass apart is that we walk our clients through the process from A-Z. We start with an assessment of
our clients’ needs, make recommendations, and set-up professional recycling programs, train staff, and monitor the progress so that each of our clients’ recycling programs start strong and stay strong. Where does it all go? One of the biggest disappointments is when we hear speculations that recycling just gets taken to the dump like everything else. Recyclable materials have an international market value. A successful recycling company must maximize revenues from the collection or service fees as well as maximize marginal profit from the sale of materials.
So where does it all go?
Plastic-Most of the plastic we collect is brokered locally, and sent to mainland Mexico or Northern Baja. A good chunk of that plastic ends up in China or Peru where it is “re-processed”, or turned into small pellets that make new plastic containers. Metals-Currently, all metals are being sent to Northern Baja and end up being reprocessed in the US. Paper and Cardboard is also primarily sent to paper mills in Northern Baja and Mainland and is used to make new products like paper towel, newspaper, paper bags, egg cartons and more. Paper constitutes about 40% of the average waste stream and it takes trees to make paper, however it is one the hardest materials to manage. So for us creating a proper system for paper and cardboard recycling has been very important. Glass-Clear Glass is recycled locally in the hand-blown glass factories. Colored glass is recycled in Mexicali, Mexico and used to make fiberglass. Styrofoam-Is Recycled locally in a factory who manufacturers internal wall structures. Recycling has helped Enviromass set the foundation as a Green Company in Los Cabos. We are currently expanding our operations in line with our long term vision. Enviromass is proud to announce the establishment of Enviromass Consulting, a concept that bridges Waste Management, Energy Conservation, and Waste Water Treatment to implement the highest level of Environmental and Social Responsibility in the Resorts and Communities of Los Cabos. Please contact us to take the next step in Keeping Cabo Blue: Info@Enviromass.com Facebook Group: CaboBlueFoundation
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Destino Magazine “Presents”
Baja
Renaissance
by Jim Pickell, CEO Baja.com
Swim with sea lions Day Tour
2012 marks the end of the Mayan
calendar for Baja’s indigenous neighbors. This timely transition neatly marks the blossoming a new era for Baja California. The region is undergoing an explosion of creativity and Snorkel with the Sea Lion Colony innovation. This is Baja’s Renaissance, being led by a diverse and eclectic On Espiritu Island group of Baja denizens, collaborating Experience one of the most with pilgrims from the international memorable days of your life! community, many discovering and rediscovering this Mecca. Baja has a renewed lease on life, and there’s a tanta“After living in La Paz for over eighteen years, I always say “ to truly appreciate the true beauty of La Paz, you lizing possibility that this one will not need to look beneath the surface!” be fueled by an un-sustainable bubble To take the trip to the sea lion colony at the north end of cruisers and spring-breakers, but of the island of the “ Holy Ghost” or Espiritu Santo is just off the coast of La Paz and is simply breath taking rather led by visionaries and philosowhere dramatic scenery of the desert meets sea views. phers, poets and professionals, artists The journey takes just over an hour to get there but and scientists, with the only common once we do you know about it! The barking of sea lions thread being their efforts to weave the and flocks of birds above makes one feel that they have landed in the Discovery Channel. Baja lifestyle into their vision. We receive a short briefing from the guide and enter the Approximately 7.5 million people waters to be greeted by Brown Californian sea lion pups around the world Goggle the word ready for playtime. There are over two thousand marine species around “Baja” each month. What are they the island so snorkeling or free diving is a must. searching for? Baja is experiencing a Once back on the boat we go to the island for lunch and renewed interest in its landscape, artiwalk the pristine beach or even remain at the sea lion sans, its environment, its lifestyle and colony if you so wish. An experience of a lifetime and one that you will always how its citizens achieve wellness. It’s cherish”. touching the entire peninsula. The inJames Curtiss/ owner The Cortez Club terest in Baja is reminiscent of the Arabic folktale, “The Man Who Became Espiritu Santo island tour Rich through a Dream”. The protagonist traveled on a worldwide quest, on the faith of a dream, searching for riches. Imprisoned, broke and penniless, a sympathetic policeman gives him money to return to his home. It was there he discovered a great treaDepart: dock in La Paz at 8:30 am sure, one that had always been buried One hour boat trip to Los Islotes, beneath the fountain in his own garden a group of small islands at the north of Espiritu Santo Island, year round home to a colony of over Look to the city many would per350 curious California Brown Sea Lions! ceive to be the least suspecting candiThe pups are playful and great fun to swim with! You will see big schools of fish, reef fish, rays and more…! date, Tijuana. The world’s busiest borThe site is home to over 4000 different marine species, der shapes the views of more visitors with occasional visits from Dolphins and Whales. than any other region. Artistic murals Swim: Boat to the beach on Isla Partida, are now being installed over the graffor Snorkeling & Swimming with Sea Lions. fiti. Much like the flower became a symbol of peace in times of war; could VIP Lunch..A bed of organic salad with a lobster tail, smoked salmon and shrimp with wine and soft drinks. this gateway one day reflect what Baja Collect shells, or snorkel off the beach has to offer? Within Tijuana proper, Return 3 pm restaurants the likes of Mision 19 have captured international acclaim, as RESERVATIONS BOOK IT NOW! Mexican food is becoming one of the world’s favorites. Right beneath our Destino Magazine “PRESENTS” Tour palettes, Tijuana is becoming to food CALL toll-free 855-BAJA-411 or 612-145-0087 what Seattle was to grunge music, (2252) with rivals in other Baja regions. The
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city now boasts its first LEED certified building, drawing international attention with its Jm Pickell “bridges and skylights, a vast airy central chamber, and an aluminum skin to filter out ultraviolet rays.” And the Business Innovation and Technology Center launched several months ago, promising a steady stream of thought leaders. The world is taking note. At the other end of the peninsula, San Jose del Cabo hosting the G20 this summer, a landmark event for Baja. While it may be a political ploy to send the message that the coast is indeed clear, the fact is, it just may work since the coast is clear. But behind any smoke and mirrors, something real is happening and it’s a people’s movement. California, long viewed as forward-looking in protecting the environment, is now finding itself struggling to duplicate the ground-breaking
success that Baja California Sur achieved in recovering the sensitive marine zone at the Cabo Pulmo Marine Park. There are efforts in both Tijuana and Los Cabos to develop some of the leading stem cell centers in the world, promising the fountain of youth that many have believed could be found in Baja for decades. Out of necessity, Baja is home to among the most advanced drip irrigation in the world. And among the next generation, many “entrepreneurs by necessity”, there are new concepts surfacing in marine biology, LEED certified development, organic farming, experiential travel, voluntourism, nomadic schools, agrotourism, medical tourism, and yes, even novel ways of making us love fresh roasted Mexican grown, organic coffee. Baja is a lifestyle brand but it’s so much more. Baja living is the caveman diet of life. And this is what attracts these creative forces. At its core it’s about simplicity and authenticity, reminding travelers why they travel in the first place. People who can think out of the box have learned continued on next page
HOME GROWN FOOD! 3 Meals per day (except Monday) 9 am - 3 pm Breakfast and Lunch •• 5 pm - 9 pm Dinner BRUNCH on SUNDAYS 10 am - 3 pm Reservations: 624 355 4564 or www.flora-farms.com
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Baja Renaissance Continued from previous page
what Baja has to offer beyond the all-inclusive resorts and beneath the sandy surface and that’s the draw. Baja has long been the benefactor of the worldwide brain drain of creativity, an exodus of artists that have left their homes for Baja. Artist Charles Stewart of Todos Santos (may he rest in peace) was one of the founding fathers of this movement in 1985. Now Baja California is becoming a gastronomical geo-center for foodies and wine connoisseurs around the world. TV Travel channel chef Anthony Bourdain recently referred to Baja as “the new Tuscany” at a recent speaking engagement. Almost 90% of Mexican wine, many vintages and varietals winning awards around the world, come from the Guadalupe Valley and surrounding region, an area still untainted by the commercialism found in other wine regions. In Los Cabos, art walks and organic markets are now commonplace, with the once little known Flora Farms becoming an epicenter.
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“[There’s some awesome shit going on down there right now. They got tired of waiting for the Americans to come back and just started making really great, really creative food. . . . Something amazing is happening” said Anthony. Ultimately a big component to the direction this takes comes down to tourism. Contrary to assumptions one may draw from US headlines, Mexico was recently ranked the 10th most traveled country in the world. It’s also the second most rapidly growing country in Latin America, even while weaning off its GDP’s dependence on oil. And as impressive as Mexico’s rise through the ranks, Baja is one of its fastest growing regions in Mexico, whether defined by tourism or industrialization. Historically Baja California has been more integrated with the United States than just about any region in Central America. And while there’s no dispute that travel from the US has declined in recent years, the rest of the world is largely ignoring the US media. Travel from Canada grew over 50% in the last five years. More rapid growth is being experienced from
Cabo surf Hotel Expands
Shore Villas Luxury Suites You can’t get much
closer to the beach than the Cabo Surf Hotel. A gem of a property tucked under the sharpest curve on the highway, right on the surfing beach next to Palmilla point in San José is one of those “finds” that There are now 14 new beach front units (on the right travelers search for. of the property) designed by the owner Mauricio BalderOffering consistently rama with luxury details including Jacuzzis, special linspecial quality food at ens, creative woodwork, stunning vistas and the crashing their 7 seas restaurant, waves from their premier surfing beach. and open to the public especially for their music events like every full moon. A spa and surf lessons too! Mauricio Balderrama is standing on the balcony in one of his new Shore Villas that boasts Palmilla point vistas. He is from a family of hoteliers, has an engineering degree and started his career in investment banking before choosing the hotel service industry life style. He developed the Cabo Surf Hotel to the destination location it is today. He designed and oversaw all the details of the new luxury rooms and is actively involved in the daily aspects of his operation. The hotel boasts one of the best restaurants, the 7 Seas, in all of Los Cabos, with famous full moon music events every month!
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over as many years. It started out being a bare stretch of land with a water source. Enter the kitchen garden, and the hosting of the weekly organic market, with local produce from other farmers, arts and crafts, and breakfast Photos & story By Brenda Thompson cooked by Gloria. It was common for her to serve 150 breakfasts to visitors Gloria and Patrick Greene are the on these Saturday mornings. All this heart and soul of this unique field-toactivity took a toll on the physical land plate organic farm restaurant. Located so she moved this event into town, ten minutes norh of old town San Jose and she could develop her property to del Cabo, this jewel is becoming a notanother purpose more suited to what so-well kept secret of the area. the soil craved, which was to cultivate One is never truly ‘inside’ while at Gloria & Patrick Greene beautiful food. Flora Farms. The large restaurant area, farm bar, and organic market share a and Patrick married, they decided to The Facility: The large, yet cozy roof, but no walls, lending a feeling of relocate here as well. Originally, upon and welcoming, kitchen features cheftruly being in the midst of the garden. settling in the area, Gloria started an worthy stainless appliances. During My first order of business was to have organic restaurant in the town of San the beginnings of the Flora Farms project, local clients and friends attended lunch before meeting Gloria for our Jose del Cabo, called Flora Café. Flora Café (as in flora and fauna) her cooking lessons. Now its a regular interview. The menu board has somehad a vegetarian focus, but finding orschool, drawing international corpothing for everyone, from vegetarian ganic vegetables during those years was rate interest while becoming a permafare to a serious chop steak and fries impossible. This was the impetus for nent entry on employee agendas as a to satisfy a man-sized appetite. All starting the kitchen garden, the origiperk while traveling for business to the their foods are organic and sustained nal land plot which is still gated with a Baja. Companies like Pepsi, Nike, and by the property. I would soon learn charming picket fence in the middle of Caterpillar have the cooking school Gloria’s adage: “from the farm, and of the property. The acreage where Flora booked through to 2013. the farm, with a mindful accountabilFarms now sits was discovered during Behind the culinary school sits ity to Mother Earth”. a horseback riding excursion. Once the Greene’s residence. A Yurt with 3 Gloria Greene is the founder and purchased in the mid 1990s, the kitchbedrooms, houses the family comfortvisionary and hands on manager of the en garden was planted to service the ably while keeping in tune with the entire operation. Originally from Sorestaurant in town. During these early environment. Guests of the Greene’s noma Valley, California, Gloria found years, she also co-founded the weekly stay in the nearby Teepee, complete her love of cooking during her univerSan Jose Organic Market, as well as with rugs and furniture; electricity and sity days. While studying for her bithe Humane Society for rescuing and internet; a divan bed with Ralph Lauology degree, she put herself through relocating unfortunate animals. ren linens. college working as a sous chef. No empire is built overnight, and There is an outdoor amphitheater; The Greene family has been a this is true for Flora Farms as well. sculpted terraces in the ground and part of the community of San Jose del The 15 acres have evolved gently covered in plush grasses, with reguCabo since the 1970s, so when Gloria
Flora Farms and Flora’s Field Kitchen
A Mother-Earth-Approved Gastronomic Experience
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lar concerts under the stars at night. Nearby is a small clearing featuring a shrine sculpture as the focal point. Often used to host weddings at sunset. The most recent addition to the property is the Field Gallery and Gift Shop featuring unique exhibits from local artists. The Operations: The romance of this property doesn’t happen by accident. There are 30 employees handling a wide variety of functions. The farm property is closed for September and October each year, then re-opens in November with the first crop of the season. Only heirloom seeds are used, meaning seeds which are non-hybridized original seeds. Organic certification is not currently regulated by the government in Mexico. At this point, it is left to the individual farmer to selfContinued on next page
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Flora Farms & Gloria Greene continued from previous page
direct their systems, but Gloria is trying to change that. She is on a board whose goal is to design and implement policies for the future of organic farming in the area. Through the kitchen to the cold storage, Gloria explained that they used straw bale construction which provides eco-friendly insulation for the two monster walk-in cold rooms. The bale walls are roughly a foot thick and completely sealed. A climate-controlled grain room keeps dried goods at optimal temperature to ensure freshness. An outdoor clay oven for baking artisan breads and pizzas means there is no culinary feat that Gloria can’t master on site. The operation emits a casual and relaxed experience. She still offers an organic market with tables of inviting produce and herbs. Fresh meats and poultry in the cooler display, eggs collected that morning, and home preserves all from the farm. Gloria shared that she’s “amazed it actually took off”. While she built Flora Farms on a concept that she loves, she wondered: “just because I love it, will others love it too”? Gloria’s passion for food and sustainable ecology has produced a culinary marriage which we can all enjoy. Brenda is a LAM (Reiki-based) Practitioner & Trainer and Freelance Writer
www.HolisticHormone.com www.WriteSlice.com
www.loscaboshumanesociety.com
Artist N.E. Hayles at the opening of her art show at the gallery at Flora Farms. There is a new showing every month! In front of her paper Mosaic art of George Harrison and Nicola Tesla, electrical engineer, pioneer in wireless communication starting with radios.
Gloria Greene, center with artist Azia and friend Douglas at artist reception at Flora Farms gallery.
Pacific Coast KM 54
KM 57
KM 59
TODOS SANTOS
KM 61
KM 64 CABO SAN LUCAS
HWY 19
Look for obvious dirt roads heading toward the ocean
PLAYA PUNTA LOBOS fishing boat launch
PLAYA LAS PALMAS swimming, hiking PLAYA SAN PEDRITO surfing
PLAYA LOS CERRITOS surfing, swimming
NORTH
PACIFIC OCEAN
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G
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FREEZE YOUR FAT A new, non-invasive fat removal technique called CoolSculpting by Zeltiq is replacing the painful liposuction procedures for fat reduction. Freezing fat cells with cryolipolysis which freezes the fat cells without damaging the skin or tissue, is non-invasive with few side effects. It takes up to 4 months to fully show effects. It works best for those already physically fit, but with some fat pockets. One treatment produces 20-40% bulge reduction. Cost $700-1000 per treatment
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DESTINO LOS CABOS
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Discovering a Jewel of the planet
Copper Canyon – Barrancas del Cobre
THE TOUR!
All stories & photos by Susan Carol Editor, Destino Magazine
For
many years I’ve heard about the Copper Canyon, but was too busy discovering all the wonders of Baja Sur to take the trip. I’ve worked with a family of hoteliers for many years, the Balderramas (in Los Cabos they own the Cabo Surf Hotel), and they regularly encouraged me to visit this Mexican treasure. After my road trip through Sonora last summer I became more intrigued with the Sierre Madre Mountain region and finally decided my first activity of 2012 was to spend the week experiencing the famous train (El Chepe) tour to the Copper Canyon. It’s actually many canyons lumped under one name. I had no idea I would find such majesty and absorb into my spirit the beauty and tranquility of this region. But that was after a few days of travel, so let me start at the beginning. The best-kept secret in Los Cabos is the existence of Aereo Calafia airlines. Serving the smaller airports in the Sea of Cortez region for many years. This is the easiest way to fly to Sinalao and Sonora. There is free parking from their base at the Cabo San Lucas airport, and no security hassles short of passing your luggage through a machine…you don’t even have to take your electronics out. Their planes hold around 20 passengers, and as we were boarding someone said the front
seat with the pilot was open, so that is where I sat, of course. Los Mochis, Sinaloa is the gateway city to the mountains, and the flight was just one hour. Climbing to only 10,000 feet it was also a great sightseeing ride, flying over the resorts, then out the east cape and over the sea greeted by Topolobambo natural ocean bay and port, and then landing in Los Mochis International airport. I booked a 7-day tour, and was met at the airport and driven to the Pueblo Magico town of El Fuerte for my first night before the 8:30 am train trip the next day. What a nice discovery was El Fuerte! It is an inviting river town with unique architecture, a beautiful town square, a fort, which is now the Casa de Cultura and my destination, the stunning Hotel Posada del Hidalgo. A combination of three private mansions, this hotel is a museum with many stories and legends, including the birthplace of “El Zorro” (see a sidebar about this story) who visits the hotel every night to the delight of the guests, especially me who has fond memories of the TV series Zorro when I was a child. He was so dashing and mysterious and different from anyone I ever saw growing up in Minnesota, he definitely caught my attention! I enjoyed a fantastic dinner of langonista, small river lobster, and nestled into the elegance and comfort of the governor’s suite. El Chepe, the train from Los Mochis
Every room at the Mirador Hotel has a balcony looking out over miles of silent canyons and mountains. Perched at 8000 ft (2400 meters) ,the sky is endlessly clear! It’s absolutely spectacular!
to Chihuahua is comfortable, scenic with big windows and the route an engineering wonder. Many tunnels and bridges, and many visionaries and financiers were involved building this rail line, which opened up the Sierre Madre region in 1961. After 4 hours, my first stop was Cerocahui and the Mision Hotel, which was a 45-minute drive on a dirt road from the train. Another one-hour drive on a dirt road to a pinnacle point high up, you can see the canyon village of Urique and get your first taste of the magnificent scenery of the canyons. They also offer a wine tour and tasting, with grape vines all around the hotel, a tour of the mission and a visit to the local Tarahumara girls school. The mission was built by Jesuit priest Juan Maria de Salvatierra, who is also known as the Jesuit who built the first mission in Baja Sur outside of Loreto. This area has perfect climate for growing grapes, but the Spaniards made the missionaries destroy the vines they had nurtured so that Mexican wine would not replace the Spanish wines. Luckily a local saved some of the vines, and they now have about 4000 vines in the area. The Mision Hotel was so cozy and the employees were so genuinely nice. The rooms are all decorated with typical, colorful Mexican bedspreads and wood stoves for the cool winter nights. I love fires in my rooms, and needed the warmth in January. The food was tasty and nurturing and you could get variations on their fixed menu. My fellow travelers were all Mexican, with a few Europeans as the North American business has fallen off completely due to the weak economy and the fear of banditos. The Copper Canyon area is totally safe, as is all of Mexico really, and in the 14 years I’ve lived and traveled in Mexico, often alone, I’ve never encountered any problems. North Americans should listen to fellow travelers versus the media, I believe. Mexicans love tourists! It was so tranquil in this remote village, it was hard to leave, but off to the train after just one night with 2 hours of travel, to a higher and more dramatic place….the actual Copper Canyon area and the Mirador Hotel. I am so glad that I had three nights in this gorgeous place, as I experienced nature and quiet and the bigness of the mountains, at
a whole new level. The full moon, rising over the mountains, and spectacular sunrises that color the sky, hours before the actual sun is visible, are visual eye candy! The Mirador is perched on a canyon wall, and there is nothing between your balcony and the mountains. It’s really absolutely spectacular! Hiking from the hotel is inviting, with big vistas all around. Horses are available for exploring the rugged paths, and they even offer hummer tours. There is also a fun park with breathtaking zip lines high above the canyon floor and a tram that carries you to perches where you’re totally surrounded by mountains with even better views of the three canyons in the region, with Copper Canyon one of them. The Tarahumara Indians are present everywhere you travel in this area with women and children in their colorful traditional clothing selling their handcrafts. You can also spot their small villages in remote mountain areas only accessible by foot. They are famous runners and have rich and colorful customs, especially during semana santa (easter). I spent a half-day touring the area around the closest town, Creel. We stopped at a typical Tarahumara cave, where the family lives during the summer because it’s cooler, but in their brick home with tin roof the rest of the time. Cave living is fairly typical with these indigenous people, who shun materialism and the modern civilization. The gondola passed over a remote ancient cave used as a burial ground. I also saw this in China. The town of Creel has a typical town square with two churches, and a very interesting museum about the Tarahumara culture. The descriptions were in Spanish and English, so I learned their rituals, use peyote to connect with their spirits, and the value of the family unit. A man and woman can become boyfriend and girlfriend only with permission of the community elder. Then they are observed over some time to see if they are truly compatible before marriage. This seems like a good idea! The women all wear traditional clothing of bright colored skirts, shawls and even socks and are in charge of cooking, caring for the children and developing their hand crafts for sale. The Tram into the Copper Canyon region
men work in typical hand labor jobs like ranching, mining and road building, and are in charge of building their homes. The community pools their resources, and family is the center of everything. The men are world famous runners, often barefoot or with thin-soled sandals, and have regular races when someone is inspired to set the date and course. Reluctantly I left the mountain rim and the lovely Mirador Hotel with three meals prepared for me daily, and boarded the train for the 6 hour ride to El Fuerte, and private van for the one hour ride back to Los Mochis, and landed at the modern – TV’s and Internet – Santa Anita hotel in the heart of the city, where dinner was waiting for me. After a good rest I boarded the late afternoon Aereo Calafia flight back to warm, sea level Cabo San Lucas airport. I enjoyed everything on this Balderrama tour – the train ride, the accommodations, the food, the tours – and was moved by the tranquility and grandness of the tiny area of the mountains I experienced. Winter is a popular time for travel to the Sierra Madre Mountains and Copper Canyon. as there is no rain and the temperatures are cool at the top of the mountains, but comfortable and temperate on the lower levels. Easter week will have the most crowds, with Christmas week pretty busy as well. Spring and Fall it can be hot, in the 80’s at the top and 1020 degrees warmer at the bottom. The rainy season is June – August, and September can be the most gorgeous month if there have been significant rains. The waterfalls are running, and everything is blooming. This is the time people in Los Cabos want to flee the heat, so this is the place to go! Next time I go back, I plan to hire a guide and hike down to the tropical canyon floor that always includes overnight camping. There are no paved roads down to any canyon floor. There are guide services for everything you may want to do in the Sierra Madre and the best place to find them and coordinate special trips is through the department of tourism in Chihuahua; phone # from Mexico 01800-508-0111, email turismo@chihuahua.com.mx, or from outside the country + 52 614-429-3300 ext 11111. SPECIAL NOTE: After this trip, I con-
structed a special 6-day “Destino Presents” tour for Baja Sur people featuring the stops and tours I liked the most, The tour has flights leaving from Cabo San Lucas and La Paz. Just go to our web page: destinoloscabos.com and click on the Copper Canyon tour and the online web travel agency Baja.com will handle your reservation. You will love it!
volcanoes throughout the SMO. To understand what “super” is what the means…the Mt Vesuvius volcano in Italy buried the city of Pompeii killing 25,000 people in 79 AD and created a high speed pyroclastic avalanche of wants to be when it hot ash reaching 1472 F and measuring 49 feet high. This ash welded to create very compact and resistant-toThe entire Sierra Madre Occidental erosion rock called ignimbrites. The region contains a much smaller reeruption that occurred in SMO 33 gion known as the Copper Canyon or and 20 million BC, was similar to Mt Barrancas del Cobre and is one of the Vesuvius but much larger in scale cremost spectacular places in the world. ating extremely hot ash to the heights The incredible engineering feat called of 1640 feet! Of course this was beThe Train route from Los Mochis - Chihuahua El Chepe – Railroad Chihuahua- Pacifore human existence on earth. fico, is a wonder to travel on and is one sumed part of the Farallon plate. The How were all the canyons then of the more important railroad proj- effects of this pressure combined with formed? Today, staggered plateaus at ects in recent times. It crosses the area the heat of the earth melted rocks and a variety of heights surround all the called the Sierra Tarahumara, with im- the material came to the surface as canyons. During the giant volcanic acmense, long tunnels and bridges wind- lava, ash and aerosol, creating volca- tivity there were glens and riverbeds ing through one awesome vista after noes that began to form and island arc, surrounding the various volcanoes and another. What is interesting is this huge similar to the Lesser Antilles today. the ignimbrites and ash accumulated With volcanic activity and falling in them creating solid molds that were mountain region had a spectacular be- sea levels the area began to emerge stronger than the walls. Over time the ginning all due to a super, volcano. The Copper Canyon forms a re- higher forming the Sierre Madre Oc- glens collapsed and the volcanic rocks gion containing the largest canyons in cidental (SMO). A remnant of this left, created walls up to 500 meters the world! It is just a small part of activity is located in Yellowstone Na- high resulting in the many plateaus the greater Sierra Madre Occidental tional Park in the USA. The boilers of around canyons throughout the Sierwhich is 932 miles long and 93 miles the park are the result of actions under ras. It is estimated that during the 15 wide, covering 11,554 square miles the ground, known today as the Juan million years of volcanic disruption, and runs from its most northern point, de Fuca plate, which is the balance of 3,000 conduits were formed. Wind the Grand Canyon in Arizona through the giant Farallon plate. With no lava and rain erosion over the years deepSonora, Chihuahua, Sinaloa, Durango, flow, there is a build-up of gasses that ened the river valleys forming the canZacatecas, Aguascalientes, Nayarit and explode from the earth’s core, versus yons we now see today. Jalisco States in Mexico and joins a flow and spread, like the Hawaiian Is- The incredible transverse volcanic region covering lands. This makes them very dangerous. volcanic activity also Throughout the SMO are volca- created an area rich area to Taxco, Guerrero. This is 1/6 of noes that have left huge areas of rhyo- with minerals. The the territory of Mexico! The highest lite material, which is a rock rich in friction of the plates point is 9842 feet at Cerro Gordo in silica, and formed by violent eruptions created such high Durango. of magma to the surface. The SMO temperatures 33 Million years ago this region and is the world’s largest outcrop of this pressure that the was under the water of the ancient Cretaceous seas and began to emerge rock material that has low flow viscos- first things to melt due to volcanic activity caused by tec- ity, which is not found any place else were metals that tonic plate movements. A large plate on this planet and causes much more were then injected called the Farallon went under the explosive volcanoes. The formation of into the fractures North American plate and the result- this Sierra is an example of the fiercest that occurred during ing friction called subduction, con- volcanism on the planet, forming giant this activity, creating veins that are being mined today.
COPPER CANYON GRAND CANYON
grows up!
in Mexico at 6164 feet. The Copper Canyon was named for a vein of copper found in the canyon, which is 4265 feet deep. Sinforosa Canyon is called the “Queen of the Canyons” with spectacular cliffs, and beauty and the 2nd deepest at 6003 feet. Baropilas Canyon has a town on the canyon floor that is 1476 feet above sea level. There is a huge brick church, old brick ruins, lovely architecture and waterfalls. Candameña Canyon at 5741 feet is located inside Basaseachi Waterfall National Park and 171 miles west of Chihuahua City. Chinipas Canyon is the most remote canyon at 5249 feet deep with the colonial town of the same name at the bottom of the canyon, which is the oldest in the area, and the most well preserved. Otero Canyon at 4986 feet deep can be reached from Divisadero and San Rafael train stops. How does the Copper Canyon region compare to the familiar Grand Canyon in the USA? The Copper Canyon region is longer and deeper, but the singular Grand Canyon is more extensive than any of the specific canyons in the SMO. Another difference is the Grand Canyon has about 40 floors of geological ages that have existed on the planet, while the SMO there are about only 4 or 5. Both are natural wonders of North America!
THE CANYONS
Specializing in Copper Canyon Adventures! with 30 years experience
Airlines • Hotels • Cruises • Cars • Charters • Corporate Services Cabo San Lucas Plaza Los Arcos Leona Vicario & Revolucion (624) 143-1396 losdelfinestravel@hotmail.com
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Also Cu ba and Peru
San José del Cabo Plaza Chicos Carr. Transp. (next to Nissan) (624) 142-0752 angel1laguna@hotmail.com
DESTINO LOS CABOS
There are seven canyons along the El Chepe train route that comprise the Copper Canyon region. Urique Canyon can be viewed near to the town of Cerocahui, as well as from the Divisadero station area, and is the deepest canyon
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Chihuahua
Destino Magazine “Presents” Copper Canyon Tour
CREEL Mexico
“You are going to love this specially designed tour” Susan Carol, Publisher, Destino
The easiest to reach town in the Cop-
per Canyon area, Creel is accessible by the El Chepe train and by a good paved road from Chihuahua City. It has a small town center plaza, a couple of ancient brick churches and lots of stores for food and supplies and a bank with ATM machine. This not something you see in the area too often. It is populated by many Tarahumara Indians and has a very interesting museum about their culture and traditions. The museum display starts out: “the Tarahumaras say that have always been here”…… The town is a strategic point to visit many famous sites like Basaseachi with one of the highest drop waterfalls in Mexico (807 feet). Also close by are the rich mining towns of San Rafeal and Batopilas and Guachochic, an important Tarahumara center. There are many rich wonders nearby the town like unique rock formations with names like; ”Las Ranas” the frog, “Los Hongos” the mushrooms, “Las Chichis” the breasts which were formed by wind and water erosion. Seven miles west is a mysterious valley called Bisabirachi of Valley of the
Tarahumara Cave
monks. There is a collection of huge columns between 131 and 164 feet high. Lake Arareko is a popular vacation spot, with hot springs located a few miles away. One of the most visited places in the area is the cascade of Cusararé with a 98 foot high horsetail waterfall surrounded by a beautiful of pine and oak trees.
DISCOVER THE COPPER CANYON! 6 Day Adventure from Cabo or La Paz! First Day: Fly from Cabo or La Paz Los Mochis airport. Transfer by van to Pueblo Magico town, El Fuerte. 1 hour Overnight at Historic Posada del Hidalgo. No meals included Second Day: Overnight at Mision Hotel 07:45 Transfer hotel/ to train Station at El Fuerte 08:30 Train leaves to Bahuichvio 08:40 American breakfast on board the train. (included) 12:30 Arrival to Bahuichivo and transfer to Cerocahui (45 Min) 13:30 Lunch at Mision Hotel Included. 16:00 Walking tour, visiting church and boarding school. 18:00 Happy hours drinks are not included (2 x 1) 19:00 Dinner at the Hotel (included) Third Day: Overnight at Mirador Hotel 07:00 American Breakfast 08:00 Tour to Gallegos Overlook point (3 hours) 11:30 Check out go to train station 12:30 Leave Posada Barrancas station 14:15 Arrival and transfer to Mirador Hotel (5 min) 14:30 Lunch at Mirador hotel (included) 16:00 Walking tour of the area of Copper canyon (1 hour) 19:00 Dinner at the hotel (included) Fourth Day: Second Overnight at Mirador Hotel 8:00 American Breakfast 09:00 Creel Tour visiting Arareko lake and San Ignacio Mision 14:00 Lunch at the hotel (included) Free afternoon: optional horse tour or Overlook Point tours 19:00 Dinner at the hotel (included)
Elephant rock
Nueva Direccion: ¡¡Ahora mas céntrico y con estacionamiento.
Fifth Day: Overnight at Posada del hidalgo 8:00 American Breakfast 9:00 Tour to Divisadero Overlook Point (2 Hour) Optional Tram & Zip Line adventure 12:45 Transfer hotel to train station 13:00 Lunch on board the train (included) 19:00 Arrival at El Euerte train station and transfer to hotel 19:30 Dinner at Posada del Hidalgo hotel (included) Sixth Day: American Breakfast (included) 13:30 Transfer hotel to international airport of Los Mochis.
$450
COMPLETE PACKAGE Includes Round Trip Air*: La Paz - Los Mochis or Cabo - Los Mochis First Class Train Tickets to El Fuerte- Bahuichivo- Posada Barrancas - El Fuerte, 5 nights Hotel accommodations, 13 meals, all tours, all taxes, all transfers from airport, hotel and train. Total: per person in one room (2 double beds per room) Single $1710 Triple $1170 Double $1240 Quadruple $1135 Child (4 -11 years) $607
*Most flights leave daily, Train and land tours leave daily
Destino Magazine “PRESENTS” Tour CALL toll-free 855-BAJA-411 or 612-145-0087 (2252)
Information
RESERVATIONS:
Av. Los Cabos Esq. Playa el Caracol, Col. Cerro de los Venados Frente a Gasolinera y Alizer
Informes al 624 143-7413
www.destinoloscabos.com
www.destinoloscabos.com A one hour flight across the Sea to the gateway of the Copper Canyon! El Chepe is one of the most beautiful train rides in the world!
DESTINO LOS CABOS
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RICH HISTORICAL TOWN
El Fuerte, Sinaloa was an early Spaniard Capital El
Fuerte, about one hour due east from Los Mochis, Sinaloa is a Pueblo Magico town, and it immediately captures your attention due to the distinctive architecture and welcoming ambiance. Its history is rich, including an important chapter in the Mexican story of the country’s development. The modern history story starts with the Spaniards arriving in the region in 1530 lead by the President of the first Spanish government in Mexico, Captain Nuño Beltrán Guzmán. He led an army of 500 soldiers with 250 horses, guns, cannons and a few thousand Indian allies. At that time indigenous tribes speaking different dialects, fought constantly with each other, and lived on the shores of eleven rivers throughout the province. Some were Nahuati origin (same race as the Aztecs) and left numerous petroglyph cave paintings throughout the area, including El Fuerte. The region is fertile with river and sea fishing, fruit and seed harvesting as well as cultivation of corn and squash. In 1532 Hernán Cortés sent the first mariner to venture onto the Sea of Cortés, Captain Diego de Mendoza who was seeking pearls, and attempting to arrive in Sinaloa before Nuño Guzmán to gain advantage over his enemy. Unfortunately when approaching a coast to seek food and water the ship wrecked on the shores of Sinaloa and the Indians attacked it and killed everybody. The Guzmán expedition discovered the remains. One day 1536 in El Fuerte the Spaniards came upon Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca and three Spaniards and a black slave thought to be dead in a shipwreck on the Florida coast eight years earlier. Amazingly their dramatic odyssey is part of American history. These men wandered completely lost, facing thousands of perils through the States of Alabama, Louisiana, Texas and New Mexico then into Chihuahua and Sonora where they saw etched on the collar of a Yaqui Indian the clasp of a sword, and they knew white men were not far away. They finally came across four horsemen a few kilometers from El Fuerte. Along their journey they had attracted a large group of Indians , so impressed with their journey and bravery they called the men their healers. They all stayed and founded the town of Barnoa, which still exists
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today. The founder of El Fuerte, which was originally called San Juan de Carapoa, is credited to a very young and financially well-connected explorer, Captain Francisco de Ibarra. He crossed the Sierra Madre Mountains and was lucky with the Indian tribes he passed during his exploration. He found the Carapoa river valley to be very fertile for crops and grazing and abundant with wildlife and settled the village in 1563. The Spaniard presence in the area did not stick, with hostile Indians driving them all out by 1600. The next chapter in the history of the region starts with the arrival of the Jesuits who set about the task of the spiritual conversion of the Indians in Chihuahua, Sonora, Sinaloa and Baja California in Mexico and Arizona, Texas and New Mexico in the United States. (all Spanish territory at the time) Over a 200-year time these stoic men colonized and civilized the barbarous lands. In 1608, a brave Spanish Captain, Diego Martinez de Hurdaide, son of an Indian mother and Spanish father decided to build a fortress in El Fuerte in a strategic place on the river to protect the Jesuits. It was a large rectangular building with towers on each corner and 17 rooms for cavalry and cattle corrals, henhouses and a garden. He named this fortress El Fuerte de Montesclaros. By 1758 there were 1880 inhabitants in this village with the Jesuits introducing the alphabet, artesantry and cattle ranches. All expeditions to colonize Sonora, Arizona and California passed though El Fuerte. Mining further expanded the population of the region making it even more important in the growth of Mexico. In 1775 Captain Juan Bautista de Anza prepared for an expedition to San Francisco California and recruited miners and colonists in Sinaloa, Alamos, Buenavista and El Fuerte. The names of these people are now familiar in that area of the USA: Robles, Verdugo, Pico, and Vega were all involved with the gold discovery. By 1848 the population of towns like El Fuerte dropped significantly when many migrated north to participate in the California gold rush. Gold and silver discoveries in the region, and the opening of the first stagecoach highway in 1852, brought new importance
Vista of the El Fuerte town plaza from the fort on the hill
The ornate municipal palace next to the central plaza park
The town fortress, then jail and now the Casa de Cultura.
to towns on the route: Mazatlán, Culiacán, El Fuerte and Alamos. The Independence of Mexico from Spain in 1821 created El Fuerte as the capital of the new Western State that encompassed El Rosario to the south and to Tucson and the Grand Canyon in the north and called Occidental. This vast State was divided in 1831 into Sonora and Sinaloa, and El Fuerte remained the capital for the district stretching from Ahome to Choix. During this time very wealthy families; the Ibarras, Alamada, Gaxiola, Delgados and Vegas, displaced the politicians and took over the area. In the early 1900s Don Rafael Alamada built the majestic Municipal Palace
still the pride and center of the town. Don Esteban Nicolas de la Vega from Portugal spent half of his wealth building the church and he is buried on one side of the high altar. Families of these early founders still live in El Fuerte carrying on the family name but not the vast wealth. The mansions built by these wealthy families are still part of El Fuerte today. The quality and grandeur of the design of these buildings are treasured historical sites giving El Fuerte its Pueblo Magico designation. The most beautiful “Casa Habatación” built by Don Rafael J Alameda was purchased in 1968 by the Balderrama continued on page 28
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The heart of the Canyons
The next Jesuit to arrive a year later was father Juan Maria de Salvatierra. This enthusiastic Italian built the mission church and stayed in the area for 10 years before moving on to Loreto The best view of the deepest canyon, and founding the first mission in Baja Urique, is most accessible one hour California Sur. The Jesuits continued from the ejido village of Cerocahui. in the area until 1767 when the SpanA four hour train ride from El Fuerte, ish king recalled all the Jesuits due to and 45 minutes on a dirt road from political differences. During their stay, the Jesuits also the train station to the virgin land- cultivated vineyards, with the land scape setting in the middle of Tarahuand temperatures well suited for good mara Indian country and on the rim wines. When they were forced to leave, they were ordered to destroy the vines so Mexican wines would not compete with Spanish wines in Mexico. Locals kept some of the vines, and today owners of the Mision Hotel have grown the wine industry locally with about 4000 vines and market their wine under the “Mision” label There is no more recorded history of this area until 1936 when the Jesuits returned. Padre Andres Lara reThe first stop of El Chepe in the mountain built the mission and finally opened it region to explore is Cerocahui in 1956, and also started a Tarahumara of the Urique canyon. The 900 local Indian boarding school. The Tarahuresidents are involved with forestry, mara live in the mountains, far from ranching and farming. The first visitor town, so to educate the children they to the area in 1679 was a Jesuit priest, need to spend the week away from but the Indians were not too receptive. home with their teachers in town.
CEROCAHUI
The Mision Church, the heart of Cerocahui
This school still exists today, specifically for girls, and is part of the tour offered when in the area. The remains of Padre Lara are in the walls of the mission church. In 1961 with the opening of the Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad (Chepe) the first ever public transportation to Cerocahui opened the area to visitors. The Mision Hotel, next to the church, built by Roberto Balderrama, opened in 1968. This place is a center for ecoadventures, with a number of interesting hiking trails to places like the Huicochi waterfalls (5 miles), the old Sangre de Cristo
gold mine (3.5 miles), Las Cascaditas waterfalls with swimming holes (2 miles), the lookout point of La Valle de Leon (2 miles) and a bus ride to Cerro del Gallego Urique Outlook…a sweeping view of the mining town of Urique and the deepest canyon in the mountains. (3.5 hours). You can visit Urique and discover that the canyon floor elevation of 1590 feet produces tropical fruit, corn, peanuts and coffee. There is a youth hostel in the town for overnights, and bicycle riders from England said the dirt road from the canyon floor to the town of Cerocahui was the most difficult they have ever climbed.
The Urique Canyon
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for centuries. One explorer swore he saw a Tarahumara catch a deer with his bare hands chasing it until it dropped dead from exhaustion. Another explorer spent ten hours climbing up and over a Copper Canyon mountain The indigenous Indians known as by mule; a Tarahumara runner made it the Tarahumara (Tara-oo-mura) or in 90 minutes! Ráramuri which means “barefoot run- In Tarahmura land there is no ners:, have occupied the Sierra Madre crime, war or theft. There is no cormountains - always. They have pre- ruption, obesity, drug addiction, greed, served many elements of their ancient wife beating, child abuse, heart disculture, preferring to live in remote ease, high blood pressure or carbon caves or small rock homes, and are emissions. They don’t get diabetes or very close to nature. They have ex- depressed or even old. Fifty-year-olds traordinary skills weaving basketry can outrun teenagers and eighty-yearstill maintaining a pre-hispanic style. old great granddads can hike marathon Luckily they sell their wares through- distances up mountainsides. Their canout the tourist region. The women al- cer rates are barely detectable. They ways dress in their traditional clothing have a one-of-a-kind financial system of brightly colored skirts and dresses, based on booze and random acts of and are the merchants of their wares. kindness; instead of money they trade The men work in ranching or mining. favors and big tubs of corn beer. The They have blended their rituals with Tarahumara are industrious and inhuChristianity resulting in some very in- manly honest. One researcher specuteresting and colorful ceremonies at lates that after so many generations of Easter and Christmas. They have their truthfulness the Tarahumara brain was own language, and the Mexican gov- actually chemically incapable of formernment has built a number of board- ing lies. They are the kindest and haping schools for the children who live in piest people on earth and are superremote parts of the mountains to stay humanly serene but very tough with during the week to study and learn incredible tolerance for pain. One Spanish and Mexican history. outsider who was lucky enough to The Tarahamuras are famous for witness one of their raves said the partheir running speed and are said to be tiers got so blitzed that wives ripped the healthiest and most serene people each other’s tops off in a bare-breasted on earth and the greatest runners of all wrestling march. Cabo Spring break is time. (see book “Born to Run”by Chris- nothing compared to the Tarahumara topher McCougall) They have regular under a harvest moon! cross country races when someone They eat very little protein with is inspired to organize it. No regular their favorite food ground up corn schedule for these, but sometimes spiced with their favorite delicacy, they run, non-stop for 2 days running Bbqd mouse. They don’t rebuild their hundreds of miles! Few have seen the bodies between runs or work out or Tarahumaras in action, but stories of stretch or warm up or wear running their super-human toughness and tran- shoes. Just thin sandals or barefoot. quillity have drifted out of the canyons They just laugh and banter before a race, then run like hell for 48 hours. They have no injuries or knee probBaja Healthy Living lems and their legs are tougher because they have been running all their Inspiring Natural lives. They seem to be the opposite Well-Being through of the health advocated in the westYoga • Ayurveda • ern society. How can this be? Is it a coincidence that the world’s most enSustainable Living lightened people are the world’s best runners? Valma Brenton E-RYT The Tarahumara have perfected Certified Ayurveda Educator/Specialist being invisible. One Norwegian exYoga Classes, Energy Healing, plorer walked though and entire vilPermaculture Design lage without detecting any homes. Seminars, Retreats, Private appnts Many who live on cliffsides, climb up Todos Santos (612) 131-6387 a long pole to their homes then pull the pole up! vbrenton@island.net
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A FAMILY OF HOTELIERS
finally found an eight month program at the Rosslyn Hotel in downtown Los Angeles run by a woman from the cruise ship industry. This hotel still exists with artsy people now it’s tenants. He lived right at the hotel by Susan Carol Editor Destino where a room cost $3.00 per day and a radio an extra 50 cents per day. No Roberto Balderrama has a twinkle in TV. He laughs about how confused he his eye and a fond-memory smile as was in the beginning, with daily classes he remembers the start of his hotelier conducted in English, but he buckled career. In the late 1950’s Mexico down, studied nightly, picked up a lot announced funding for a tourist train more English and received his hotel from Chihuahua City to Los Mochis, management certificate and headed Sinaloa, through the spectacular back to Los Mochis to manage the Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon) Santa Anita hotel. His oldest brother area, due to open in 1961. Roberto’s was already running things, and father, a very successful Los Mochis Roberto recalls his mother actually merchant decided he would be the one had to intervene to prevent sibling to build a first class hotel in downtown rivalry and the conflicts two managers can bring to a business. She diplomatically decided that Roberto was better trained and more temperamentally suited to the hotel business, which turned out to be true. He was given the “hotelier of the year award for 1995” from the hands of Ernesto Zedillo, president of Mexico. To date he has seven successful hotels: Santa Anita and Plaza Inn in Los Mochis, the San Luis in Culiacan, the Cabo Surf Hotel in Los Cabos, and three along the El Chepe route: Posada del Hidalgo in Pueblo Magico town of El (right) Roberto Balderrama, the first generation of Fuerte, the Misión Hotel in family hoteliers and his son, Bernardo Balderrama the Cherocahui and the dramatic Director of the hotels in Los Mochis and the Copper Hotel Mirador in the heart of Canyon. His other three sons run a variety of hotels the Copper Canyon. His four in Sinaloa and Los Cabos. sons today manage all of his hotels. The train called the Chihuahua Los Mochis to provide the destination hotel for the tourists who were sure to al Pacifico (El Chepe) opened in arrive. Having five sons, he gave them 1961 using well-built Italian cars, and all equal interest in the venture and was an immediate success. For the set about the construction of the Santa next twenty years the Sierre Madre Anita hotel in 1957. A few years later opened up to the adventure travelers when the hotel was near completion and the need for further hotels in the it was clear among the family that mountains became very apparent. nobody was trained to run a hotel, so Then the government took over it was decided that Roberto, educated the train line, and tourism dropped as a lawyer, and just 23 at the time, and the train schedules became less would be the one to go to a school reliable. Finally a private company, to learn how to manage a hotel. He Ferronales, purchased the railroad focused on learning the daily needs of line 1997 and invited Roberto’s hotel group to take over the dining and the a successful hotel operation. Back in those days there were no bar car. Today it is a comfortable ride schools in Mexico with specific courses with constant gorgeous vistas and in hotel management, so he searched good food and even a beverage cart the USA and found just a couple of cruising the aisles offering snacks and them with multi year programs, but drinks while relaxing music plays in he didn’t have time for that. He and the background. A very pleasant and his brothers had all studied in the visually exciting ride! Continued on page 32 USA, so he knew some English, and
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The Legend of Zorro As the story goes, Zorro was born in El Fuerte at the place that is now the Posada del Hidalgo hotel, just off the main plaza of El Fuerte. He was born Don Diego de la Vega in Casa Viejo, which was constructed during the 17th and 18th centuries. Actually it was the first garrison in the area, strategically placed in front of the old fort constructed on Carapoa Hill.. It was a stone compound with small iron doors that housed crooks and enemies of the Spanish crown in the back from 1650 – 1750. When the Spanish authorities shut it down, Don Alejandro de la Vega remodeled it into his mansion. He was a Creole (child of Spaniards but born in Mexico) born in 1775 during the colonization of Alta California and was married in El Fuerte to a Mestiza (Spanish-Indian mixture) woman in 1795. She gave birth to Diego in the mansion in 1804. Don Alejandro had some bad luck
Zorro appears nightly at the Hotel Posada del Hidalgo to the delight of Susan Carol!
with mining, and then his wife passed away. He decided to seek new horizons in Alta California in the Spanish town of Los Angeles. He joined the Verdugos, the Robles and the Picos to find adventure and colonize the new land taking his son Diego with him. Rumors began to reach El Fuerte about the hero/bandito of California who defended the cause of the poor against Spanish rule. The intrepid and romantic horseman called himself “el Zorro”: the fox. People in the town quickly identified him as Diego. An unknown chronicler wrote, “in that house on the hill roams the ghost of De La Vega and there…in the corner room on the darkest and most silent nights, one can hear the cracking of a furious and righteous whip. It is the spirit of El Zorro to rest in the same place where he first drew his first breath”.
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Summer Road Trip
Sonora Mexico
by Susan Carol, Editor Destino
I arrived in the middle of September
after crossing the border at Mexicali Baja California, I was ready to be in the middle of nowhere after 2 months of road travel in the hectic USA. Flying from Los Cabos to Minnesota to pick up my last USA possession, a 1990 Chrysler Lebaron convertible I traveled 5000 miles in the USA, I made stops in Gold Beach Oregon to study Tai Ji for a few weeks. and three stops in California to see friends, while enduring the bad roads, and of course like most people traveling north from Mexico, went shopping many times. What great plazas full of enticing goods did I see….. After 2 months on the road, and driving through the San Diego blackout (surrealistic all those people, the highway and all surrounding areas… black). The full moon helped me that night. How could one cut line in Yuma Arizona blacken all of the greater San Diego area and Tijuana too? I finally crossed the border at Mexicali and onto my vacation in Puerto Peñasaco. Just 2 km into town, my A/C system went out. It never even occurred to me to drive back to the USA for repairs. After 4 service stops I finally found an english speaking mechanic who could fix it…the next day. So he helped me find a hotel in this huge city. Turns out, Omar was deported from LA, even though he was born there but his hard working mom never filled out the right paperwork to become legal. He got in some petty trouble, with no legal advice or help and he was kicked out of the country. He has an American wife and 3 children who are with him and they cross the USA border daily to attend school. He did great work on my car, had his son help so I could travel that day, and charged me a very good price. The USA lost a
many USA States, especially Alabama are dieing on the vine. Why work for people who don’t want you? Sonora is a booming State! Its capital Hermosillo is a culture and business center with over 650,000 people. The Ford auto plant employs over 12,000 people and is known in the world as Ford’s most productive plant! I spent days in the seaside areas of Bahia de Kino and San Carlos, which are inviting, inexpensive good worker and his family, so I hope and attractive winter destinations for Mexico absorbs this talented, English North Americans. In search of good speaking mechanic with open arms. food, I headed into the mountains to I saw Mexican trucks lined up Pueblo Magico town, Alamos, and for many miles at border crossings, all was instantly attracted to the inviting, to satisfy American security. When I historical town center. There are 188 was finally on my way out of Mexi- buildings that are National Historic cali on Hwy 2 traveling through the Monuments. Throughout eastern SoSonoran desert and close to the USA nora there are quaint, historical towns border, I saw the fence….the one the to explore, rivers to swim and fish and Arizona people demanded. The one eco tours in a variety of areas. There that goes for 80-100 miles across the is a historic Ruta de Misions between middle of the most desolate, windy, Nogales and Hermosillo and the Ruta hot desert I have yet encountered, de Playas that include Puerto Peñassurrounded by rugged mountains. I co, Bahia de Kino and San Carlos to thought any Mexican who wanted a job explore. There is a major zoological bad enough and the courage to cross center south of Hermosillo including this desert on foot is someone I’d hire. a theme park and the Ruta Álamos What a waste of taxpayer money, and which covers the historic towns of what paranoia from Arizona. Seems Guaymas, Cocorit, Cd Obregón Navato me the economy would be helped joa and Alamos. There has been a migration of Baja people to Sonora for years to attend universities and receive medical treatments. and enjoy the larger cities for shopping and culture. Many Sonorans migrated to Baja Sur with the tourism boom. Sharing the Mar de Cortés region, Baja, Sonora and Sinaloa share The fence across the Sonora / Arizona border their history and are inviting to if more shoppers were in the USA, in- explore and easy to travel to. stead of building a fence to keep them I traveled back to Baja Sur after out? However in Mexico, migration is my long road trip by way of Baja Ferflowing south at a rapid pace because ry, which is a ship designed to move Mexico is welcoming visitors and trucks, cars and people in relative even have “hassle free zones” for US luxury, across the Sea of Cortez. For people and vehicles close to the bor- about $190 my car was secure in the der towns like San Diego and Tucson. lower deck, while I had a private room Furthermore, the Mexican economy with bath, on the higher deck. The is growing with intense highway and ship to La Paz leaves at 12 midnight, infrastructure construction through- and I slept the entire 6 hours across out the country in order to keep the the sea to awaken to the beautiful sunpeople working and prepare for future rise at the port of Pichilingue, south of growth. Migration north has now basi- La Paz. Want to know more? cally stopped and crops in the fields of Visit www.sonoraon.com
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Fly to Cabo San Lucas ª San José del Cabo • La Paz • Hermosillo • Los Mochis • Mazatlan • Puerto Vallarta • Cd Obregon • Guaymas • Culiacán • Constitución • Loreto • Guerrero Negro • Isla de Cedros • Tijuana
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El Fuerte,
Pueblo Magico Town continued from page 24
Gomez family, who has Choixian, Fuertian and Alamoan roots. They transformed it, adding two other mansions into the gorgeous Hotel Posada del Hidalgo. In 1910 El Fuerte received, with great jubilation, Don Francisco I Madero, initiator of the Mexican Revolution. In 1913 illustrious Don Venustiano Carranza, Baron de Cuatro Ciénegas and the Sonoran General Alvaro Obregon met in this important town. These three men went on to become Presidents of the Republic. El Fuerte was also the scene of a cruel and bloody battle when armies of Carranza and Francisco (Pancho) Villa clashed with a disastrous defeat for Villa and the end of his push for a divided North. 1952 brought a big change for the region when the Miguel Hidalgo Dam was begun, to provide water to the valley of El Fuerte making it the center of agriculture and the support for the city of Los Mochis. In 1965 the Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez Dam was built, expanding greatly the arable soil of the valley and increasing the prominence of its farming economy. Tourists are attracted to this region for it’s colonial attractions and the abundance of black bass fishing and white dove hunting. There is a thermal hot spring at Jipago, near the Hidalgo Dam and the El Fuerte river offers canoe and rafting trips. This river has flowed continuously for a millennium and covers 450 kilometers and eventually flows into the Sea of Cortés. Archeological sites, including 200 ancient petroglyphs are 12 miles from El Fuerte in the Máscara Mountains, which is the land of the Mayo Indians. A major birding hotspot there are regular sightings of rare species like lilaccrowned parrot, squirrel cuckoo, solitary eagle, social flycatcher and happy wren. It is also a popular boarding station for the El Chepe railroad that takes tourists to the Copper Canyon area, or travelers to Chihuahua. El Fuerte is easy to get to with a major highway to Los Mochis, and connected by a dirt road with the Pueblo Magico town of Alamos, Sonora. A paved road has been funded by the government and will be open in the next few years connecting these two prominent, historical Pueblo Magico towns.
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Exploring Sonora:
story and photos by Susan Carol
Puerto Peñasco
The Beaches
Mayan Palace Beach above, marina area below
The 40 foot extreme tides daily makes Puerto Peñasco a unique beach on the planet.
People in the USA call this area Rocky Point, probably because of the large rock formations the town is built around. Discovered in the ‘60s by young people from California and Arizona , just a few hours away, looking for a party on a beach, the town today still bears their influence with restaurants named “Wrecked on a Reef”, “Boo Bar” and “Capone’s”. Puerto Peñasco, at the very north end of the Mar de Cortés, became part of the Nautical Ladder plan initiated during the President Fox era in 2001, that was designed to expand nautical tourism in the region and received significant federal money for infrastructure. An entire beach was filled with low cost condos, and those grown up party lovers, driving distance away, purchased them. Major developers like Mayan Palace and Homex purchased huge tracts of property and began resort construction. The Mayan property has a golf course, time share condos and a beach resort that is one of the best properties I’ve experienced! I stayed 2 weeks! Sales and development have halted due to the negative USA press about Mexico, so there are extremely low prices for beach front condos now. The downtown is funky, and the marina area has good restaurants and bars. The Mexican flavor is prominent with all national holidays celebrated in the colorful, traditional way. They have vehicle events like “Thunder on the Beach Raceway”, Monster Truck exhibition and all-terrain pickup race. 30
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Bahia de Kino
San Carlos
Located just 2 hours from downtown Hermosillo, Bahia Kino is a laid back beach and fishing community. The Seri Indians were the first inhabitants discovered by missionaries in the 1600s and were never conquered. They finally integrated with other Mexicans around the 1950s, motivated by economic trading needs. There is even a local museum that nicely presents the Seri lifestyle. Funky wooden shacks make up the original beach town founded around 1920 by Mexican fishermen catching the abundant Totoaba fish around the huge close-by Tiburón island. In 1953 the road to Hermosillo was paved stimulating commerce in fisheries products. The State put aside 245 hectares to develop the town, and 868 hectares to develop lots for tourist infrastructure and recreational use of Mexican nationals. The 1970s saw a boom in Mexican investors, and scallop fisheries opened, and later shrimp and crab operations developed. Today there are 5000 7000 residents in the town, including a small, active group of foreigners. There is a Kino Viejo, the old town site and Kino Nuevo the newer homes north of town.
Kino Nuevo bay
Low cost beach front condos above, and sculpture on the downtown seaside plaza.
Seri Indians
San Carlos is the beach front subdivi-
sion within the important port city of Guaymas on the Sea of Cortés. Sometimes referred to as Nuevo Guyamas, located just 250 miles from Noglaes on the Arizona border. This seaside community is an area where three former Presidents of the Republic of Mexico were born. This easy to reach community is a winter mecca for North Americans settling into the numerous RV parks. In the mid-1950s Rafael Caballero purchased 3 large ranches and planned the tourist development of San Carlos., including a 18 hole golf course. In the 1960s this picturesque area caught the eye of Hollywood and famous films like Catch-22 (Alan Arkin Orson Wells) The Mask of Zorro (Antonio Banderas, Anthony Hopkins, Catherine Zeta Jones) and Lucky Lady (Liza Minnelli) were all filmed in this town. Its also the main setting for the 2010 award winning book My Bad Tequila by Rico Austin. Known throughout the Mar de Cortés region as a fantastic diving local, it attracts a significant number of divers to explore the waters year-round. Visibility is over 100 ft and sometimes exceeds 200 ft at dozens of island and cove locations. A natural inlet marina attracts fishing and pleasure boats, and water sports are a big activity in the calm water of Guaymas bay. Kayaking, water skiing, sail boarding, jet skiing and speed board spectator races keep things lively. There are natural reefs and tide pools that are inviting to explore, and a 330 foot damaged ferry boat was sunk for the enjoyment of scuba divers.
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Exploring Sonora: story and photos by Susan Carol
Alamos I
liked this town the minute I drove through their welcome gates!
I was even more impressed driving toward the mountains into the lush green with foliage and colorful with flowers road to the town center. The narrow cobblestone streets and white buildings with arches and colonial style pulled me toward the grand town plaza. I stopped at the first hotel I found close to the center and checked in. There are many, many hotels in this town of about 10,000 people, and
Hermosillo After 2 weeks on the beach in Puerto Peñasco, it was shocking after a full day of driving to enter a busy city of over 600,000 people. Hermosillo is the capital of Sonora, over 30% of the people in the entire State live there. Industry and
Cathedral de la Asuncíon
CULTURE
varying in prices from $60 usd to $400 usd per night. There is an international airport in town, so the many private planes from the north can clear customs in Alamos versus larger cities. Silver was discovered in 1663 at Aduana, a small village a few miles west of Alamos. By the 18th century the mines had attracted 30,000 people to settle in the area. Architects and mine supervisors sent from Andalusia, Spain, built palatial Spanish colonial-style homes. One legend states a local silver baron laid silver bricks at the entrance of his home to celebrate his daughter’s wedding. The town attracted the wealthiest Spanish settlers and at one time in the early 1800s became the capital of the territory of Occidental (Sinaloa, Sonora, Chihuahua, Texas, New Mexico and Arizona). They even minted coins used throughout the territory. The women wore Paris fashions, and the social scene was as vibrant as any town in Europe. A well stocked museum on the town plaza presents this era of mining and upscale people. By the 1880s the value of silver fell, the mines no longer profitable and manufacturing employ over 68,000 people with the rest in supporting commerce. Ford Motor plant is the largest employer with 12,000 people and electronics and IT industries employ tens of thousands. Other than cars, products manufactured there include televisions, computers, food processing, textiles, wood products, printing, cellular phones, chemicals, petroleum products and plastics. The municipality has twelve industrial parks, which house over one hundred smaller manufacturing enterprises. I was excited to find the Museo de Sonora with interesting displays of the State’s culture and history. The Plaza Hidalgo was also impressive hosting regular weekend events like concerts, art exhibits and live theatre. The architecture of the government palace with its ionic columns and the neoclassic style of the cathedral is quite impressive and grand. It took over 100 years to build with its neogothic decorative elements. There are 18 higher learning
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the prospects for the town plummeted. The riches of the town attracted bandits and Indians during the Mexican Revolution in the early 1900s, with Pancho Villa and in the 1920 and 30s much of the town fled, leaving their extravagant mansions behind. After World War II the town was re-discovered by the Hollywood actors like
The Plaza de Armas is the center of town activities with the beautiful Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepcion Catholic cathedral, and still ringing bell tower built in 1786.
Carroll O’Connor, Rip Torn and Mary Astor, all who restored existing Spanish colonial buildings. When writers, artists and entrepreneurs trickled back, one historian stated, “there is a ruin for
every budget”. Alamos has an abundance of 200-300 year old buildings that had only 3-4 owners. One fantastic property restoration is now the Hacienda de los Santos. I ate two meals at this gorgeous historical site, a combination of three haciendas with 27 luxurious, inviting rooms with private patios, fireplaces and fine linens. The food was fantastic, and they have a menu of hundreds of Tequilas! Alamos is the northernmost colonial town in Mexico as well as a Pueblo Magico town that hosts music, art and theatre festivals. I’ll go back for sure!
centers and Universities in Hermosillo, and a professional baseball team called the Naranjeros de Hermosillo (Orange Growers) founded in the 1950s and is quite popular. This city is surrounded by the Sonoran desert so it is hot all year!
CABOSAT
SATELLITE TV
United States and Canadian programming All the Networks SALES SERVICE INSTALLATION CONTACT
MARK BINKLEY Cellular: 624 355-3782 email: worryfreetv@yahoo.com DESTINO LOS CABOS
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Balderrama Family of Hoteliers Continued from page 27
like plumbing or electrical repair, tour guides, front desk managers, waiters Roberto opened the Copper and chefs. All these people have to be Canyon Lodge (1965) in the only recruited from Chihuahua or Sinaloa real town and most accessible in the and agree to live on-site doing shifts at Canyon area, Creel, and operated the hotel, then go to their city homes it for 20 years before selling it. The every few weeks. lodge was popular as it looked like Roberto is clearly an explorer and the “Old West”. Water was pumped enjoys adventure. As he learned more from the creek and most employees about the Copper Canyon region he were Tarahumara Indians. In fact, back discovered the village of Cerocahui then the drums from the Tarahumara four hours drive and just one hour by could be heard every night from the train, and 45 minutes on a dirt road mountains nearby. He purchased a from his Mirador ranch. There was a ranch in 1986 on the rim of the Copper rich history with the mission church Canyon, about one hour from Creel, and wine growing and close proximity and in 1994, built the spectacular to the deepest canyon, Urique. In 1998 Mirador Hotel. All balconies and he built Hotel Mision right next door windows are cliff-side, with panoramic to the church from an old convent views of three canyons. (see page 20) in ruins and maintained its original This hotel has won numerous awards zen architecture. This inviting small for the spectacular mountain and hotel features wood stoves in every canyon vistas and remote setting. Next room and a 100 year old orchard and to the hotel, the Mexican government vineyards. Both hotels, the Mirador recently invested $30 million in a and the Mision are in the heart of the Swiss made tram car for tourists to Tarahumara country. The region has appreciate the beauty of the canyon. had a drought that caused the Indians It was and still is a total challenge to to forego their parcel’s annual corn and run a hotel in this remote area, due to bean crops putting them in a difficult the lack of any locally trained people,
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situation. Roberto´s son Bernardo, has stepped into using their logistics to help the people in Mexico reach the Tarahumaras, a beautiful ancient tribe The best way to start the canyon trip is driving from Los Mochis airport to El Fuerte, a quaint colonial town funded by the conquistadores in 1564. The train goes by El Fuerte before starts its climb of the Sierra Madre towards the Coppen Canyon. In El Fuerte, Roberto bought a turn of the 19th century colonial mansion that has the look of an old hacienda. The building was reconstructed and added another jewel into his collection. He brought the legend of El Zorro back to life as he honored the De La Vega family who resided at the old mansion before moving to San Francisco Even though, there has been a lot of concern about security in mainland Mexico in the years past, the canyon trip is isolated from violent incidents. The Balderrama’s tour package starts by picking you up at the airport and ends dropping you back there to maintain the whole trip in safe hands. “Visitors relax as they realize and perceive that the tour is safe: the train trip, the hotels, the canyon lands… H e is a sportsman and in the 70s brought black bass fishing and duck and dove hunting to Sinaloa. His son Roberto Jr now operates the hunting hotels. For Bass fishing, Roberto has recently expanded the La Estancia fishing lodge at Lake Huites. There at the foothills, the mountains granite walls drop in the intricate lake such as the fjords of Norway and New Zealand. During the time he was building hotels in Sinaloa and Chihuahua he took a family trip to Los Cabos (1969). His older children were quite young, and Los Cabos hotels included just the Palmilla, Cabo San Lucas Hotel and the El Presidente. He laughs about a particular trip in the summer, where in those days the summers were so quiet most places were closed. At the Palmilla he talked
with a young man, Enrique Silva (now of Tequila Restaurant fame in San José) who told him about a deal on a property near by. Back in those days, everyone was in the real estate game, as there were few formal realtors, and people just “knew” somebody with property to sell. Some Americans wanted to sell a run down beach house property next to the Palmilla, and after long negotiations over title, price, etc this property was secured for the Balderrama family, and over years was fixed up slowly to become the stunning Cabo Surf Hotel that now exists there today. (see Mauricio’s Project story) Roberto is retired but still vary active and the hotel and tour business es are run by his 4 sons.
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20
reservations@elencantoinn.com
HOME DESIGN
PAULINA’S STYLES
Paulina Guitierrez started her home design business in Los Cabos almost 20 years ago and has furnished and designed many, many homes in Baja Sur. Her style is personal to her clients, and her sources eclectic and varied from cities throughout Mexico. She loves color and balance and has developed her talents throughout the years that stretch from classic hacienda Mexican style to Modern and Contemporary and more recently to organic style using natural materials and earthy colors. She just opened a store at Shoppes of Palmilla to complement her Plaza Paulina headquarters in downtown San José.
Wines made in Cabo
Los Cabos Winery
A Destination It was tricky to start a business in 2009, when the entire tourist market fell off with a thud, Just about the time he opened in February, hotel occupancy dropped to less than 10%. Planning to open a winery and sell wholesale to restaurants, Robert Turnage now laughs about the variety of things he did to survive. Not able to sell wines to hotel restaurants, he started his own Label inside the Winery complex. He lowered prices on his wines to just above wholesale, and then started serving tasty tapas and full meals at very reasonable prices. The Winery offered wine tasting before your meal so you could enjoy a bottle of your favorite, with the meal. He started a wine club offering 15% discounts to regular clients who returned often for the high quality wines. Robert is intimately involved with all aspects of his now, thriving business in Cabo. The Winery is a few blocks up Francisco Villa road behind the Cabaret Sports Bar, across the street 34
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from McDonalds. Many resort people walk to this “find’ and nestle into the cozy leather couches and art filled atmosphere with live music most evenings. For a treat, dine in the wine cave surrounded
Robert Turnage the founder of Los Cabos Winery says he acquired his talent for blending wines by tasting it
by barrels of aging wines. Open 7 days a week 5:30-10:30 for dinner. Over the years, the many reviews with travel sites like Trip Advisor, puts them at the top of the list, voted #1 Cabo restaurant in the Seafood and Steakhouse categories. Their chef uses only the freshest ingredients. and their sea bass and shrimp have wonderful flavors. Also tapas sizes.
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Helping moms
Ayudando a Mama
By Marilyn Johnstone
Daycare
for low-income, single-parent ent families has not always been available in Los Cabos. For years, many children were left on the streets, in the care of only slightly older siblings, or with what may or may not have been trustworthy neighbors. But when Herminia De Losada discovered a father of seven young children, left by his wife, who needed to work, she
took the children into her own home and cared for them. She realized that many others were also in need. Thus was born the day care centre, Niños del Capitan in Cabo San Lucas. Today, they harbor 100 children from the
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45&",4 4&"'00% 8*/&4 5"1"4 OPEN 7 PM - 1 AM Upstairs Dining on the Outdoor Patio Downtown Cabo Located across the street from McDonalds www.mariasgrillcabo.com 624-143-5370
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ages of 18 months to five years, as well as 30 more primary students who arrive after school for activities and help with homework in a safe environment until their parents finish work. For her work, Herminia was honored as Woman of the Year in 2005. Margarita Hernandez and Lotti Gessner of San José del Cabo worked with Herminia and they opened a similar day care center in San Jose. called Ayudando a Mama A.C. - Helping Mom! They adapted a small house and with four children opened. It is important to note that these day care centers are not “charity,” because their philosophy is: only by paying for their child’s care is the parent made responsible. The payment is small, but the single parents often just make the minimum wage of $5 US per day. Now, Ayudando a Mama cares for twenty children and the full-time staff of five split the 25,000 pesos budgeted
for salaries - under $400 US per person. To help, Soriana’s donates discarded food weekly. This food is sorted by volunteers; some for the cooks to feed the children nutritious food, some to the workers to supplement their income, some is packaged and sold at low prices from the Bazaar, and the rest is for a local rancher for his cows. “Por las vacas!” is cheerfully sung out by the volunteers, as they sort through the boxes of fruits and vegetables. Financial patrons are needed to cover their day-to-day expenses! The San José community is asked to donate used-goods for their Bazaar, and donated money for the children’s care. Their house is located at Calle Barlovento (north end of Piscador on the right), Col. Rosarito. To visit or donate articles or money contact: Margarita: Cel: 624 192 3166 English: Lotti: 172 8220. Your donations are important!
Baja Shakespeare in Plain English!
by Roxanne Rosenblatt & Anne Herschleb.
There can be no excuse to miss the 12th Season of Baja Shakespeare. Cinderella, a British-style Panto with a Baja twist, is great for grown-ups and kids alike. British Pantomime or “Panto” is defined as “probably the noisiest, rowdiest sort of theatre you can attend, taking familiar fairy tales and injecting a vaudeville sensibility with contemporary reference double entendre and audience participation to create a raucous entertainment”! Baja Shakespeare is known for presenting Will’s comedies with shtick, song and dance exploited for the unique, local audience. Past BS productions have followed the Panto theme: Comedy of Errors was set in Texas for a chaotic, country-western feud; Twelfth Night spun a psychedelic tale inundated with 60s and ‘70s rock ’n roll music and characters; And no
one can forget our Merry Wives of Windsurf – sun, fun, bikini clad women…what more can one ask for? This year, they give the same treatment to a magical fairy tale. Directors, Bob and Lesley Currier, of Marin Shakespeare fame, are promising a 2012 show that is sure to be a masterpiece! The cast are all local thespians: Fairy Godmother– Susan Evans Cinderella – Camilla Ford First Fairy – Heidi Ford Baron Hardup – Greg Kitchel Buttons – Kim Scholefield Britney – Bobby Bowman Whitney – Ron Weber Withers – John Herschleb Dandini – Ron Heinen Prince Charming – Allen Mason Queen – Roxanne Rosenblatt Fox – Ana Pimienta Stepmother – Clarence Moyers Show March 22- March 25th Rancho Buena Vista, East Cape Bar opens 6 pm, show at 7 pm. Ticket prices $20.00 /260 Pesos. Will Call: bajarhino@yahoo.com or ph. 624 142 8008.
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Downtown Cabo
Marias Grill
A
new and unique restaurant just opened! The two partners who created Marias Grill have years of operating restaurants in both San Francisco and Cabo San Lucas. This newest creation is an open air dining experience that offers true “Dining Under the Stars” in a very comfortable setting with great people watching and a view of the local Cabo action.
Local Favorites
Restaurants
Average Entree Price: $ ($1-$5) - $$ ($6-$10) $$$ ($11-$15) $$$$ ($15-$20) - $$$$$ - ($20+)
EL TRIUNFO Cafe El Triunfo $$ The best pizzas in the region, prepared in a traditional wood burning oven. Motorcyclists love this watering hole between the East and West Coast of Baja. Well known Chef and owner Marcus Spahr.
LA PAZ Buffalo BBQ $$$$$ Choice steak cuts and seafood is as fresh as it gets, a diverse menu . Malecon Cafe Milano $$$$ A unique authentic Italian experience on the Malecon. Open kitchen, hand-made pastas and freshest ingredients. Tres Virgines $$$$$ A great mixture between flavor and flair. Athoughtful marriage of taste and art. truly great vintage wines.
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Azul Marino $$$$ Waterfront, outside seating. Fresh fish items or pizzas.
EAST CAPE
Roadrunner Cafe $$ Entrance of Los Barriles Plaza del Puebo favorite hangout for espresso drinks and chai teas, a large variety of breads and sweets Apostolis $$$$$ Diverse menu of Greek favorites and some great Italian creations. Italian wood-burning oven for their baked creations.. Bay View Restaurant $$$ View of the ocean. The menu features international and Mexican dishes. Campestre Triny´s $$ Mexican and Seafood dishes. Fresh with a little extra Mexican “oomph”. El Barrilito $$ Fresh fish daily from the local fisherman and prepared Baja style and sushi. Tio Pablo´s Bar and Grill $$ Originally a hotdog stand in 1991. now a full service restaurant and bar. For more details, maps, contact info and photos please visit “Restaurants”
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Marias Grill features 4 large TVS set to receive all the Sporting Events, with Mexican, American and Canadian Satellite dishes. Some weekends they will feature live entertainment after 8 pm. The menu at Marias features charcoal grilled steaks and fresh seafood as well as great salads and traditional mexican food. They have an open kitchen where you will see and smell the food being prepared. You’ll find some great wines at Marias as well as tapas and appetizers. This Restaurant also has the cleanest washrooms you have ever seen and the servers are very professional and well trained. Marias is located on the second level above the street on the main road into town directly across from Cabo’s only McDonalds restaurant and the Cabo Fire Department. If you’re looking for a fun and happy Restaurant that has no Time Share promotions and features delicious food at very fair prices then try Marias Grill. They also have valet parking. Note: If you want a new experience, stop by the Cabo Fire Department for a visit. They offer free tours of the Fire Station and they also have a Fire truck that has been converted into a sightseeing vehicle. The local Fire Men and Women also have a great souvenir / gift shop that helps support them.
Trocadero $$$$$ Means “a good meal, a good wine, good music”, designed to create a “bon vivant” atmosphere. Diverse menu, Baja local.
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BBVA Bancomer Bank Announces
Private Banking in Los Cabos! by Susan Carol
(BBVA), one of the largest financial groups in the Euro Zone, with about “I’m excited to to be living in Los 47 million customers worldwide and Cabos and launching the new Private there are over 112,000 employees Banking department for Baja Sur”, ex- operating in 32 countries. claims Monica The NationBalbontin Agual Bancomer irre. This new Preferred department customer in Los Cabos, unit, formeris a result of ly headed by the growing Ms Balbonpopulation of tin Aguirre wealthy people is unique in investing in the Mexico as area. Wealth its designed creation in Latto cater to in America has the needs enjoyed some The new Private Bankers Investment Management of foreignof the highest for BBVA Bancomer group (left) Gabriela Gutiérrez, ers. Their Monica Balbontin Aguirre, Susette Fenech Vizcaino growth rates in new Private the world, and Los Cabos, Baja Sur is Banking Investment Management now in that club. unit, located at the Bancomer office El Grupo Financiero BBVA Ban- at the Shoppes of Palmilla in San José comer (GFBB) is a Spanish Institution are attracting new Private Banking founded in 1932 and is the largest clients, mostly foreigners from North private banking institution in Mexico America looking to invest in the ever with deposits over $548 billion pesos. growing, and strong financial market GFBB is a holding company subsidiary in Mexico. of Banco Bilcao Vizcaya Argentaria The women comprising this unit, Monica Balbontin Aguirre, Gabriella Guitiérrez and Susette Fenech Vizcaino have completed extensive training and certification programs in all financial products, and have the backing of a huge, central asset management department based in Mexico City. Gabriela states, “our hundreds of experts make sure that our clients have the healthiest, best growing and financially solid funds and stocks for their portfolios”.
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Jacobo Turquie
Hospital Especialidades
New Director of Los Cabos Tourism
Good Medical Care by Dee Dee Sjogren
The
Within 24 hours of our son, Bo’s, arrival in Los Cabos he was hit by a jetski and the Dr. Macrina Bustos, Bo right side of and Dr. Jose Rosales his face was shattered! He was brought to Hospital de Especialidades in San Lucas for treatment. Bo spent 5 days in the hospital where he received excellent care. He had 2 facial surgeons perform a 4 hour operation where they replaced his eye socket with titanium mesh, fixed his broken jaw with a titanium rod and screws and rebuilt his crushed sinus with plastic. Dr. Macrina Bustos was able to do this procedure leaving no more than a 1 1/2” scar along the jaw-line and no nerve damage! She and another facial surgeon did most of the operation from inside his mouth, including the draining of the bone matter and blood that filled his eyesocket and sinus. Dr. Jose Rosales was Bo’s attending Physician and he assisted in the operation as well. Dr. Rosales was our saving grace as he spoke perfect English and he had such an upbeat, loving manner that we all felt that everything would turn out alright. The biggest stress was with our Insurance Company that insisted we put Bo on a plane and fly him to Canada for the operation. It took several hours of arguing that he was deemed unfit to fly due to the amount of facial damage and that any air pressure change or mobilization to and from the airport was risky. The Insurance Company continued to insist even though they did not have a bed or a Surgeon lined-up to operate on Bo when we arrived in Canada. We had no choice but to approve the operation in Mexico and forego the possibility of coverage. Fortunately, a couple weeks after the operation the Insurance Company agreed to pay the expenses because the Hospital and Doctors all went to bat for us! Our family will always be grateful for the amazing care and results that we received in the hands of these talented, compassionate Doctors and the staff of Hospital de Especialidades!
Mayor of the Los Cabos municipality Antonio Agundez Montaño named Jacobo Turquie the new director of tourism in March. Jacobo has been the Baja State tourism director and an active member of CANIRAC
Jacobo Turquie, the new Los Cabos Tourism Director is the owner of La Panga Restaurant in downtown San José.
and other local business organizations over the many years he has lived in Los Cabos, and has a clear understanding of the need to develop a bond within the community, which will affect the future tourism in the area. “Most people living here today are from someplace else and have no idea who their neighbor is or the history of this great State of Baja Sur”, expresses Jacobo. “The Mayor wants all the citizens of Los Cabos to share in the tourism industry so I’m looking at a program to build support for our local organic growers”. Only about 20% of the restaurants in town buy from the local growers, choosing more low cost, mass produced goods from mainland Mexico. Jacobo plans to educate these users not only on the health benefits from using organic produce, but on the support it gives to all of us locally by expanding this industry. Part of his plan includes tours to the farms and the addition of more outlets for purchase, which will increase jobs and our knowledge of the abundance available in our own municipality. In addition to the planned support for the local farmers, Jacobo knows there is an opportunity to share the State’s attractions beyond the beaches, golf and good weather. “The whale migrations, Sea of Cortez explorations, mountain treks and hot springs, the cave paintings in the north and the mission routes” are Jacobo’s topics!
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