Habitual. Art.
Special Issue: Fashion Volume 20 September/October 2019 www.artdictionmagazine.com
THE ROYALE September 25 - October 27 2019
ArtDiction is a platform for artists to display their work and a resource for the habitual art lover.
Staff
Devika A. Strother, Editor-in-Chief devika@artdictionmagazine.com Isabella Chow, Associate Editor bella@artdictionmagazine.com Phillip Utterback, Staff Writer phillip@artdictionmagazine.com
Contributing Writers Joshuah Hurst Tom A. Roth
Devika Akeise Publishing assumes no responsibility for the opinions expressed by authors in this publication. Š2019 of Devika Akeise Publishing. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system without permission in writing from the publisher.
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FEATURES 14 Illustrations and Fashion Dreams
Eris Tran is a fashion illustrator and designer based in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. A lover of art since childhood, Eris creates simple to elaborate illustrations and inspires a younger generation to do the same.
24 The History of Sneaker Culture
This article discusses the evolution of the sneaker and how it has changed the way we view footwear today.
28 Creative Messaging
Media content producers Henar Sherif and Adel Essam of O art-Studio share their strategy for collaborating on a wide range of projects, from a simple photo-shoot to full brand campaigns.
42 The Rise of Unisex Clothing In this article, we examine the trend of gender-neutral clothing and why it’s becoming popular.
Cover photo courtesy of O art-Studio.
In Each Issue 5 small talk 6 bella’s books 7 news 10 music 12 exhibits 46 artist & ad index
Photo courtesy of Eris Tran.
©2019 by Devika Akeise Publishing
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small talk
©prada
A
s the fashion weeks around the world come to an end, fashion house and designers are already sketching their next sets of silhouettes to outline, cut, and drape over their studio bodices and favorite models. But I paused to think about which fashion lines stuck out to me this season and realized my eyes kept going back to Prada’s Spring/Summer 2020 lines. Sure, I love the mixed-print pairings and sophisticated accessories. But what I loved most was the genderneutral pieces sprinkled throughout the line—the loose-fitting blazers and perfectly creased trousers for women and the pastel-colored windbreakers and the sleeveless box shirts for men that I could easily throw on for an evening out. Unisex clothing has always appealed to me. Perhaps it’s the inner tomboy in me who always preferred sneakers to stilettos or hoodies to halters. So as I later began to exercise fashion choices for my business attire, I pulled pieces from my male counterparts and watched
my closest become filled with blazers, baggy trousers, and loafers. In our annual fashion issue, we track back to when and why unisex clothing began. We also discuss which brands are the front runners for offering unisex attire (page 42). We also examine the birth and growth of sneaker culture on page 24. The sneaker obsession of athletes, musicians, and subcultures has forced the fashion world to pay attention. For your artdiction, we featured artists with keen attention to fashion. Eris Tran (page 14) is a fashion illustrator and designer who draws inspiration straight from the runway. We also interviewed Henar Sherif and Adel Essam of O artStudio on page 28. The photographers and art directors use fashion as part of their creative messaging. To my sneakerheads, fashionistas, creatives, and art lovers—thanks for reading. Until next time.
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bella’s books The Divers’ Game Jesse Ball Ecco, September 2019 I think I’m officially over books set in dystopian futures. I know that, considering the state of the world, this type of book is becoming less fictional and more prophetic, but I think that may be exactly why they are feeling so unappealing. Everyone I know is completely aware of where world events are heading; who really wants to read about it? It was with great trepidation, then, that I picked up Jesse Ball’s new book, The Divers’ Game, a book that the publisher’s blurb describes as “a thinly veiled description of our society, an extreme case that demonstrates a truth: we must change or our world will collapse.” Sounds like fun, right?
and social misalignment the combo implies, unlikely as the pairing might be.
Ball’s book is separated into three sections, all esoteric, disparate scenes set in an unequal world where nothing is resolved and people find new, horrible ways to kill and be killed. In this new society, all immigrants and prisoners are stripped of any rights, and then tattooed and mutilated so all can immediately identify their status; their children and any future progeny also share this fate. These individuals can be killed on sight for any or no reason, and are only allowed to defend themselves in specific quadrants set aside for them—hence their nickname, “quads.” “Pats” (short for patriots, which are what citizens are called), are equipped with gasses to kill quads, as well as gas masks to protect themselves and which only they can possess. The parallels to present-day realities could not be more evident, but what surprises is the feel of this new world Ball creates. If it’s possible to mix revolutionary France with the Venus depicted in Ray Bradbury’s short story All Summer in a Day, then Ball has achieved it, with all of the wild frenzy, bleakness,
If Ball was going for a cautionary tale, he’s slightly missed the mark; while the book is heavy with atmosphere, giving you a feeling of foreboding and human nature gone horribly wrong, the stories are at best vignettes—a glimpse of xenophobia, a fleeting moment of violence. For subject matter so heavy, The Divers’ Game feels more like capsules of smoke than anything substantial. Empire of Lies Raymond Khoury Forge Books, October 2019 Empire of Lies could be one of the best-written examples I’ve ever seen of the adage “If you think you can do better, then be my guest,” at least when it comes to the current geopolitical state. There have been a number of books, movies, and TV shows that have taken a moment in the past, changed events, and then predicted how the world might have changed as a result. Amazon’s TV show, The Man in the High Castle, is an excellent iteration of a common theme—start with the Nazis—but with the twist that the Nazis win instead of “let’s kill Hilter.” But Raymond Khoury’s book starts in a place I can’t remember anyone ever thinking of in contemporary fiction: Islam and the 17th century Ottman Empire. As in Constantinople, not Istanbul.
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The result of a mysterious tattooed man showing up and changing world events at this particular point in history means that, in Khoury’s new world, modern-day Europe is primarily an Islamic continent; the U.S. is now the primarily Caucasian Christian Republic of America, and a dwindling reliance on fossil fuels due to these ideological divides has resulted in a shifting the balance of power within the Empire. Within this dynamic setting comes the arrival of a stranger in Paris on the banks of the Seine, a murder investigation, and a mystery that leads to the unveiling of a dramatic secret that endangers not just the family that discovers it, but all of history itself. If the premise sounds like fun, be prepared: while the story is highly imaginative, it is wrapped in more information on the Ottoman Empire and 17th and 18th-century European politics than you ever imagined in a fiction novel. I have to admit that, in several of the more complex battle scenes, I skimmed a bit more than I read due to the sheer volume of information trying to be packed in. While the book is fascinating for the unique twist it provides on an alternative version of world history, the length and level of detail it provides is too involved for anyone outside of true European history buffs. Additionally, the main characters are more like metaphors or tropes than fully fleshed-out individuals: you have Kamal, the questioning believer; Nisreen, the rebel he loves; the Z Protectorate, shadowy government agency; Rasheed, the villain trying to shape the world to his vision…the list goes on. The characters feel too vague to get fully invested in. I applaud Khoury for his ambition; this book is an immense accomplishment, if for the research alone. But in the struggle between authentic detail and enjoyment value, the balance might not have been tipped in the reader’s favor.
By Isabella Chow
news Banksy Opens London Art Shop Banksy has officially gone into business with a storefront he calls Gross Domestic Product that is filled with branded merchandise. This is the first time that Banksy’s items are for sale. Products for sale include old and new works by the artist, which include the iconic stab vest worn by the grime artist Stormzy at Glastonbury last year. Banksy’s store stocks items such as a rug made from the skin of Tony the Tiger, who has died of diabetes after eating too much Frosted Flakes cereal. Knowing that this make visitors a bit uncomfortable, Banksy’s explains that “the floor covering makes quite the conversation piece—especially if the conversation centres around the UK spending over £7.8 million a year on tooth extractions for the under 5s.” The unveiling of Gross Domestic Product coincides with another of Banksy’s pieces selling for an unprecedentedly high price at auction. Recently, “Devolved Parliament” (2009), which depicts the British Parliament filled with chimpanzees, sold at Sotheby’s for $12 million. His previous auction record was $1.9 million.
Banksy’s shop in London.
Andrew Bromberg’s Design of the Edmonton Symphony Orchestra.
the home of Edmonton Symphony Orchestra in Canada. The design features rounded glass walls wrapped by a slatted stone and an elevated garden. The project will add a 30-metre high addition to house amenities and new spaces next to the existing cultural hub, which was built in 1997. Bromberg’s design will measure 4,500 square meters and comprise three stories along with underground parking. It will also feature a rectangular base and a glazed, square portion on top that meets with an elevated garden. Included in the design is a slatted roof that will project outwards from the glass-enclosed main atrium, which features operable glass walls that open to the elevated gardens. The roof’s overhanging eaves will reportedly be used to provide shade for the garden and cool the temperature of the foyer inside. The expansion will also include a new, 550-seat music venue called the “Music Box”. The theatre will be on the second floor and comprise a dark room with automated retractable seating.
Andrew Bromberg Reveals Design to Extend Edmonton Symphony Orchestra
A childcare centre, music library. and additional rooms for the concert hall, along with parking, will also be located at ground level.
Architect Andrew Bromberg of Aedas has revealed the design to extend
Access to the existing Winspear building, which includes a 1,932-seater ArtDiction | 7 | September/October 2019
music hall, will be provided via a pathway on the first floor of the new structure. Areas for coat check, a bar, restrooms, lockers and offices for administration will also be located on this level. Making use of local materials, Bromberg has selected local stone for the roof and local timbers for the inside wall of the theatre. Pale pillars will fill the airy atrium, as well as an elevated walkway that leads to the “Music Box”. Renderings white walls and curvilinear floors that are a combination of pale stone and wood. According to reports, Canada’s government has contributed $48.6 million CAD (£29.9 million) to the project, while several million dollars are expected to be fundraised to meet the proposed cost of $65.5-million CAD (£39.9 million). Rehs Contemporary Now Representing Mitsuru Watanabe This Fall, New York art gallery Rehs Contemporary will present new work by Japanese artist Mitsuru Watanabe. On public view for the first time in the United States, Watanabe’s compositions are both a tribute to and modernization of 16th Century Renaissance masterworks, while also blending those Western inspirations with his Eastern culture.
news Watanabe’s subjects routinely explore the landscapes that inspired Henri Rousseau, sometimes cross paths with creatures from Hieronymus Bosch’s imagination, and occasionally captivate mythological beings as if they were Venus themselves. Stylistically, Watanabe’s realistic approach boarders on Surrealism, particularly in the depiction of his subjects – oftentimes his daughters Naoko and Yukiko. The stoic expression they exude gives an intriguing sense of indifference to their grandiose surroundings, and yet while so out of place, they appear so natural – whether they are shown sleeping, bathing, filming, or simply looking directly back at the viewer. There is a playful allusion to the imagination of a child, juxtaposed so elegantly with the seriousness that often goes hand in hand with these historically important works being referenced. One work in particular, Naoko Walking in Rousseau’s Forest, wholly embodies this whimsical concept that Watanabe is playing with… on one hand, he sets the scene using a cropped view of the landscape in Rousseau’s iconic The Hungry Lion Throws Itself on the Antelope – a dramatic and deadly encounter between a lion and an antelope. At the same time, he prominently features his daughter, Naoko, walking nonchalantly through the commotion with a Hello Kitty bag slung over her shoulder, a large blue lotus flower in one hand, and a Canon camcorder held out in the other as if to be capturing all that surrounds her. The lotus flower in hand alludes to another of Rousseau’s jungle theme paintings, The Dream, giving us the understanding that his subject is not simply visiting a single scene, but venturing through the
Art Basel Hong Kong. Courtesy Art Basel.
forest in its entirety. Watanabe uses this subtle detail to contrast with the unwritten rules of fine art – to observe and admire, but not touch. The inquisitive and curious nature of the child, however, has led to one
she’s gone on to pluck and take the flower with her. While Watanabe’s compositions may seem like superficial reworkings of well-known paintings, there is something far greater at play here. At the core is a dialogue surrounding the admiration of prestigious works of art and the way in which we connect as viewers. Watanabe’s works force us to consider that personal connection rather than allowing us to fall back on the canons uttered by historians and scholars. As Watanabe himself puts it, “I try to envision vast imaginary landscapes fenced in by historical masters, in the likes of Rousseau and Delvaux, as semi-realistic public spaces… In the world of imagination, everything is accessible and nothing is forbidden.” Unrest in Hong Kong Impacts Art Basel’s Fair in the City
Naoko Walking in Rousseaus’ Forest. Mitsuru Watanabe.
step further than just touching, as
Reportedly, two galleries have withdrawn from the Art Basel Hong Kong fair amid ongoing protests in the Asian city. However, of the 242 galleries that attended last year, the
news majority are still expected to participate in the show as they continue to monitor the events in the city. “With several months to go until our scheduled show opens in late March 2020, we feel it is too early to speculate as to what the situation in Hong Kong will be like then,” an Art Basel spokesperson stated. “In spite of the current situation, Hong Kong continues to be the best location to host our fair in Asia—with its leading position as a financial center of the continent, as well as its thriving local cultural scene.” We are following the recent protests in Hong Kong, SAR closely. With several months to go until
our scheduled show opens in late March 2020, we feel it is too early to speculate as to what the situation in Hong Kong will be like then. Art Basel has released the statement below. In spite of the current situation, Hong Kong continues to be the best location to host our fair in Asia – with its leading position as a financial center of the continent, as well as its thriving local cultural scene. As such, we do not have any plans to postpone or relocate our 2020 show. In fact, we are actively moving forward and will be announcing our exhibitor list in late October, as usual, and we remain confident that
we will be able to deliver a show of the highest quality in 2020. This fall, we have seen that the art scene in Hong Kong has continued business as usual in the city, with gallery openings and auctions proceeding as expected. That said, we do understand that the situation is nuanced and constantly changing, so we will continue to monitor the situation closely and remain in close contact with all our exhibitors. The safety of our staff, exhibitors and visitors will remain our top priority as always.
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music
Sabrina Claudio – Truth Is On her third project Truth Is, Sabrina Claudio dives headfirst into the highs and lows of relationships. The leading track is an honest account of a toxic relationship that makes Sabrina prefer to numb herself by “Taking One to the Head.” It’s sung in a heady tone which perfectly fits the subject matter, although the topic is one that plays over and over in R&B and Pop heartbreak songs. The next several tracks will lead you down a melancholy path that explores more of relationship woes, being stuck in a specific headspace. The melodies match Sabrina’s tone and seems to ride a wave that you don’t seem to mind despite the songs running together at times. The project ends with the soothing yet sobering song, Holding the Gun.” She pledges to take her lover’s bullet, “even if it were you holding the gun.”
Best track: “Rumors” BABYMETAL – Metal Galaxy If you take a little bit of Kawaii and mix with a little bit of heavy metal, what will you get? Babymetal. You may or may not be in to this subgenre to music in general (I’m not), but there’s something to this project, I have to say. On the band’s third record, Metal Galaxy is made up of now just two: singers Su-metal and Moametal. The duo uses their soft, pop, feathery voices over thrashy runs and computerized tracks creating an effective juxtaposition. It’s a mental conflict that will leave you feeling confused after 15 tracks but will undoubtedly make you go back in for another try. Best track: Shine Mavi – Let the Sun Talk I’ve been a life-long fan of hip-hop. But Mavi’s Let the Sun Talk is one of the few hip-hop albums I’ve listened to all the way through as of late. It’s a refreshing audible piece of work without the heavy basslines overpowering
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the lyrics. This may have something to do with the fact that Mavi is student at Howard University studying neuroscience. Armed with an abstract flow that songs that move effortlessly into the next, Let the Sun Talk is hard to turn off. Although still earning his stripes in the rap game, it’s safe to say Mavi isn’t going anywhere. Have a listen.
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exhibits FANtasy: The Mona Lee Nesseth Fan Collection October 28—June 11, 2019 FANtasy is a celebration of outstanding examples of fan makers’ art spanning three centuries. Recently gifted to the FIDM Museum by Fashion Council member and renowned gemologist Mona Lee Nesseth, this remarkable collection of masterworks spans the golden age of fan creativity. Famed designers—Gustave Beer, Jeanne Paquin, Paul Iribe, Adolphe Thomasse, and Gustave Lasellaz—incorporated precious metals and jewels, delicate handmade lace, fine painting, and intricately carved horn, ivory, and mother-of-pearl into these miniature works of genius. Additionally, a specially commissioned fan from France’s leading eventailliste, Sylvain Le Guen, will join the antiques and highlight the talents of this present-day artisan of the haute couture. Together, these handheld artworks attest to both the skills of their creators and the connoisseurship of their collector. Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion July 20, 2019—January 5, 2020
Le Triomphe d’Amphitrite fan, c. 1889. FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds donated by Martha Nesseth and Mona Lee Nesseth 2019.5.9AB. Photographer: Aya Matsumoto/Coutau-Bégarie Paris Auction House.
Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion is the first New York retrospective in 40 years to focus on the legendary couturier. Drawing primarily from Pierre Cardin’s archive, the exhibition traverses the designer’s decades-long career at the forefront of fashion invention. Known for his bold, futuristic looks of the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s, Cardin extended his design concepts from fashion to furniture, industrial design, and beyond. The exhibition presents more than 170 objects drawn from his atelier and archive, including historical and contemporary haute couture, prêt-à-porter, trademark accessories, “couture” furniture, lighting, fashion sketches, personal photographs, and excerpts from television, documentaries, and feature films. The objects are displayed in an immersive environment inspired by Cardin’s unique atelier designs, showrooms, and homes. Highlights of Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion include rare designs in luxury fabrics from the 1950s; a large grouping from the landmark 1964 “Cosmocorps” collection, which sought to streamline menswear by eliminating excessive detailing; creations that incorporate vinyls, plastics, and the Cardine synthetic fabric; signature
www.archenemyarts.com Pierre Cardin I his couture salon, 1952 (Photo: Courtesy of Archives Pierre Cardin. © Archives Pierre Cardin.)
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unisex ensembles featuring full knit bodysuits with layered skirts, vests, bibs, and jewelry; iconic broad-shouldered jackets from the 1980s based on Japanese origami, Chinese architecture, and American football uniforms; “illuminated” jumpsuits and dresses; recent couture eveningwear; and an extensive overview of Cardin’s recently designed couture menswear. Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion is curated and designed by Matthew Yokobosky, Senior Curator of Fashion and Material Culture, Brooklyn Museum. Antonio: The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration September 21, 2019—January 5, 2020 Featuring more than 100 original drawings, photographs, and magazines, Antonio: The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration is a multimedia exhibition of ANTONIO, the signature that represented the collaborative creative work of fashion visionaries Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos. The installation features their artistic, editorial, and commercial work created from the 1960s through the 1980s for publications and retailers such as Vogue, The New York Times Magazine, French Elle, Harper’s Bazaar Italia, L’Uomo Vogue,
Highlights of the exhibition include more than 20 drawings from Antonio’s Tales from the Thousand and One Nights, a lavishly illustrated book of stories from The Arabian Nights, translated by Sir Richard Burton and published in 1985.
Antonio Lopez, Fashion Study, American Vogue Seminar, Pat Cleveland/Amina Warsuma, c. 1972. Pentel and cello-tak on paper. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos.
Additionally, Antonio includes 12 never-before-exhibited, large-scale drawings created in 1973 at the Condé Nast offices in New York City during a series of Vogue seminars commissioned by editor Carrie Donovan. These live-drawing sessions, which featured models Pat Cleveland and Amina Warsuma illustrated upcoming designer collections for buyers and journalists. Known for expanding fashion’s view through diverse ideas of beauty, ethnicity, and sexuality, Antonio’s drawings capture the energy of three revolutionary decades.
Vanity, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Bloomingdale’s.
Both Lopez and Ramos were born in the early 1940s in Puerto Rico, and they met
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as students at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Lopez was an exceptionally gifted illustrator, while Ramos was the art director, researcher, and organizer. In the early 1960s, they began their careers as part of the “youth quake” and became pioneers of a multinational view that moved fashion illustration forward with a modern perspective. Antonio: The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration features a continuous screening of the time-capsule documentary film Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex, Fashion and Disco (2017) by director James Crump that demonstrates their impact on fashion. Antonio: The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration is organized by Phoenix Art Museum. It is made possible through the generosity of Arizona Costume Institute, with additional support from the Museum’s Circles of Support and Museum Members.
Illustrations and
Fashion Dreams E
ris Tran is a fashion illustrator and designer based in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. He has been a lover of art since childhood. “I love Pokémon comics, so when I saw Pokémon on TV, I memorized their images and drew them on paper according to my memory,” he recalls. Although Eris majored in marketing, his appetite for art always existed. “It’s regretful that I didn’t go to any art schools,” he says. “However, my passion for art was too big so I decided to learn and cultivate my own knowledge through art books by foreign authors and drawing tutorial videos on YouTube.” Today, Eris typically spend two or three days on his drawings. However, the more sophisticated and
complex drawings can take loner. “There are even some versions that I have to spend one or two months to complete because I myself want my drawings to be wellgroomed and perfect in my eyes.” Inspired by models on the catwalk wearing gorgeous dresses, Eris creates drawings according to his own styles, feelings, and tastes. “The first thing is that I [must be] impressed by the dresses. Then I sketch by pencil. Lastly, I will add the colors. My ego can be expressed by means of the ways I use colors and lines.” Eris’ brilliant illustrations have caught the attention of several fashion companies and clients such as Alberta Ferretti, Ralph Russo, Zuhair Murad, and Marche-
Eris Tran
sa. His work as also appeared on the social platforms of prestigious fashion house of No 21, Roberto Cavalli, Moschino, Paolo Sebastian, Tony Ward, and Michael Cinco. Eris doesn’t limit himself to just working with fashion houses and designers. He is also a fashion illustration lecturer at Eris Sketchy and Fashion Workshop. He also spends time design his ow line of dolls using paper and fabrics.
Later this month Eris will publish his first fashion illustration book, Dressing in Dream published by Images Publishing Dist Ac. To view more of Eris’ work, follow him on Instagram @ErisTran or on the following sites: Behance/Eris Tran; Pinterest/ Eris Tran illustrator; or at Eristran.com.
Later this month, Eris will publish his first fashion illustration book, Dressing in Dream.
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Inspired by models on the catwalk wearing gorgeous dresses, Eris creates drawings according to his own styles, feelings, and tastes.
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The History of Sneaker Culture By John Joshuah Hurst
F
rom a crude rubber soled invention, to the feet of celebrities and athletes worldwide. Sneakers have evolved and changed more than any other style of footwear. Sneakers are a widely popular sub-genre of fashion that stems far beyond simply being a sport utility. They can be just as much of a fashion statement as they are a necessary piece of equipment on the football field, or basketball court. But where did sneaker culture originate? What was the catalyst for brands like Nike, Adidas, and Converse to become household names on the feet of sneakerheads everywhere? The invention of the sneaker The origin of the sneaker can trace its history back to the late 18th century, with an invention refereed to as “plimsolls.” They were rather rough, rubber-soled shoes that were originally sold by the Liverpool Rubber Company and marketed as beachwear. They had no “left” or “right” shoe, and were a rather plain and simple utility shoes. It wasn’t until the U.S Rubber company, nearly 60 year later, developed a more refined and mass-produced version of this concept—canvas rubber soled shoes
called Keds. They received the slang name of “sneakers” because it was said that they were so quiet, that whoever was wearing them could easily sneak up on you. Sneakers evolve in Germany In 1924, in a small village in Germany called Herzogenaurach, a man named Adi Dassler invented a sport shoe in his mother’s laundry room. This company would eventually grow into the internationally recognized brand Adidas. They would become the first brand of sport shoe to gain mass appeal, and were plunged into the spotlight when they were seen on the feet of 4x Olympic gold medalist Jessie Owens in the 1936 Olympics. For the remainder of the early 20th century, sneakers would be considered an exclusively sport shoe with brands manufacturing and distributing them for the express purpose of playing sports. The iconic Converse All-Stars were invented during this period, and used almost exclusively as Basketball shoes. It wouldn’t be until the early 1950’s, when seen on the feet of actor James Dean, that youth would
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begin to wear sneakers as a fashion statement rather than just while playing sports. Sneakers become a status symbol In 1984, a collaboration between basketball star Michael Jordan and Nike, Inc. would change the landscape of sneakers forever. The launch of the Air Jordan would send competitors scrambling to change the way sneakers are made. Today, the Air Jordan sneaker is still one of the bestselling lines of sneakers of all time. Many consider it to be the “grandfather” of all modern sneakers. This marriage of beautiful design with function pushed shoe manufacturers to see sneakers as more than just tools, but rather a status symbol that consumers would pay top dollar for. They say imitation is the most sincere form of flattery. In the case of sneakers, everyone wanted to recreate the success Nike had with Air Jordans. Trying to make lighting strike twice, competing companies like Reebok and Adidas would try to recreate the aesthetic of the Air Jordan, even mixing in exotic colors, developing new comfort technologies like ‘the pump’ that would fill your sneaker with air for a better fit. Everyone wanted in on the craze. Adidas would lateer sign a deal with hip-hop duo Run-D.M.C to promote their Adidas
sneakers. This would launch the first signs of “celebrity” footwear. On school yards, and city streets across the world, your footwear could say a lot about your social status in the mid-80’s. Sneaker culture today Today, the sneaker industry brings in nearly $60 billion annually, and hundreds of millions of dollars are spent in research, development, and branding. All to advance the technology of sneakers, and how we view footwear. Today, celebrities and athletes alike sign multi-milliondollar collaboration deals with manufacturers. From the Kanye West “Yeezys” by Adidas, to the LeBron James / Nike collaboration, consumers and enthusiasts will wait in line for hours, and cast their names into online raffles, all for the chance to get the newest, and most exclusive sneakers on the market. The influence of sneakers and sneaker culture can be seen in politics, design, research, and manufacturing across the globe. What began as a humble rubber company invention, to the industry juggernaut that it is today, sneakers have changed the way we view footwear forever. And the innovation, technological advancements, and iconic fashion presence of sneakers show no sign of slowing down.
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Photography and Memory philamuseum.org
Creative Messaging
H
enar Sherif and Adel Essam are the art directors and photographers for their company, O art-Studio. Both began as individual photographers taking up the craft as hobbyists, but it soon developed into a passion. “We were both carrying out creative photography projects just for the sake of art, and our approach and vision were quite similar. So, we thought—let’s combine the momentum into one and develop it into something even bigger with its own identity and structure and start invading the fashion industry and commercial aspects of photography,” Henar recalls. As media content producers, Henar and Adel are the creative forces behind a wide range of projects, from a simple photo-shoot to a full
campaign. “We start from scratch and come up with the concept for the project. Once it’s approved by the client, we then present the mood and styling boards for the photography and videography accordingly,” says Henar. She explained that the boards always include a detailed description of the direction for the shoot such as the location, models, color palette, angles, props, clothing, and makeup. “Once all is approved and settled, we set a date and carry it out.” When collaborating on a project, Henar and Adel have the primary focus to reach a mutual vision, so that the final outcome satisfies the client’s needs and still keeps its artistic approach. One primary way they accomplish this is by making strategic use of fashion in a photoshoot.
Adel Essam
Henar Sherif
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Working as both art directors and photographers on various campaigns, Henar and Adel know firsthand how these roles must complement one another. “Fashion is as important as any fundamental element like the location or lighting as it accentuates the direction and style,” Henar explains. “For example, if we were going for something that is Avant-Garde or something vintage, contemporary, etc., fashion brings this vision to life. Also, the colors that the models would be dressed in are prominent and very essential to the color palette for the whole shoot.”
help with lighting, etc. “While shooting, you would then know how to use each element to deliver the vision you had already planned,” she says. “It’s actually amazing and very rewarding to be the art director of your own shoot and witness the whole process from the start, creating and putting all the elements together until it finally comes to life.”
Sometimes, developing a new campaign can Working as both art directors and photograpresent obstacles. “Let’s agree that there are phers on various campaigns, Henar and Adel loads of brands and designers right now and new know firsthand how these roles must compleones coming up every day, so it’s very challengment one another. “Art direction is like the ing to always create something different and cooking process, and photography is like the creative for your client,” Henar explains. “So, presentation of the plate. If the cooking was when we’re working on a new campaign the first good and the presentation wasn’t, the food won’t question we ask the client is ‘What’s the meslook appealing and will lose value. Meanwhile, if sage you want to deliver from this photoshoot?’. the cooking wasn’t good and you try to present it The client always has an aim or a statement that in the best way possible, it will still lack taste and they want to deliver, and our work starts from will be meaningless,” Henar says. there. We come up with the concept according to the purpose of the shoot, then decide the Henar explains that when they’re planning a best direction, location, model, and lighting that shoot, they have a vision of how everything would emphasize the concept simply, yet delibwould fit and look in the frame, how this would erately,” help in the color scheme, how a location would
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Henar and Adel diligently work to make sure a brand is accurately represented when undertaking a campaign. “The idea or concept has to be complementing to and suited for the brand’s identity,” says Henar. “It cannot be something that is in contrast or doesn’t speak of the brand’s history or progress while still maintaining a new creative approach.”
everywhere and lies in the simplest forms and most minimal details. It could be a reflection in a shop window, a person standing in the right light, a location could inspire lots of ideas, a movie, a piece of music, sometimes even a person’s aura or energy. You just need to be in the right state and ready to unveil it and find it.”
The O art-Studio duo is inspired by everything they see around them. “Inspiration is
To learn more about Henar and Adel, visit https://www.oart.studio/.
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“The idea or concept has to be complementing to and suited for the brand’s identity.”
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Daily Promise Parris Stancell
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The Rise of
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Unisex Clothing By Tom A. Roth
U
nisex clothing has started to become a recent trend, and multiple brands you may be familiar with have hopped on board. While unisex clothing might not be for everyone, there are some things you should definitely be aware of. Some popular brands of unisex clothing are: Champion, Birkenstock, Reebok, Ami, Pacsun, Vans, and many others. Some of these seem familiar to you right? Keep in mind that these are just a few wellknown brands, aside from those, there are plenty of other brands out there. When it comes to unisex clothing, unisex shoes have been in style for quite some time. The new trends that have emerged have become quite common and are likely brought on by the current political landscape. Famous fashion companies have begun to blend their clothing lines, and you can definitely find women in trousers and men in dress-like apparel. So, let’s take a look at how trend began, and what brands have gotten on board.
Footwear One of the biggest unisex trends is definitely shoes. In many cases, this is where the whole unisex idea spawned from. For many years, companies like Birkenstock and Converse have been producing unisex shoes. The shoe trend has been in style for much longer than newer trends, and it is actually quite common to see women walking around in combat boots from famous designers. Unisex shoes tend to be gender neutral, and most of the time you would not really be able to tell which gender had which shoe type first. This is also true for the skater styles as well. You can find many men and women wearing similar types of Vans footwear. Sandals also play a role here, and believe it or not, some designers have released heeled sandals that resemble women’s heels for men. Men’s clothing and why women decided to pursue it This one is a bit more recent, but you can now find women wearing trousers much more often.
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Typically, men’s clothing pieces, outfits like trousers and trench coats have paved the way for more unisex clothing to enter the market. This fashion is typically created by young designers like Alexander Mattiussi of the brand Ami, and experts in the fashion field claim that this trend began because women decided to take a liking to some men’s clothing early on. You’ve probably seen it on television, or in recent fashion magazines, but women are starting to pull off trousers, suits, and trench coats quite well. So, well that brands like Ami have begun to tailor their clothes specifically to be unisex. The most popular unisex trends that came about from women are definitely trench coats, trousers, and pants suits. Even some famous actresses have been seen sporting trench coats, trousers, and more baggy clothing. You can thank the first and second wave feminists for some of your unisex style, because they fought hard to make this trend acceptable in the 1900’s. Women’s clothing and why men have decided to pursue it While most people think that unisex refers to women wearing men’s clothing, this is definitely
not accurate. Men, in recent years, have actually begun to broaden their horizons. This means that men are starting to seek out outfits that women would traditionally wear, and you’ll see men in clothing that closely resembles leggings, dresses, and even other unisex styles like skinny jeans. The men’s side of the unisex trend definitely took some time to blossom, but in 2002 there was a bit of an explosion. Rick Ownes was a pioneer for genderless fashion, and actually created his own line of Male dresses and skirts. Owens believed that men should be able to Express themselves in their own skin, and his ideas definitely proved fruitful. This set the stage for many other companies to hop on board, and just like that, you’ll find more and more brands offering unisex clothing. Some of the most popular trends include men wearing skirts and dresses. This trend has become quite popular, and you can find companies like Gucci making their bomber jackets more unisex oriented. If one trend has really started to gain ground
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it is definitely unisex skirts and jackets. You’ll find plenty of men mixing things up, and even famous icons like Jaden Smith have been seen sporting some new trendy skirts. What brands offer unisex? Many brands you may be familiar with are definitely jumping on board the unisex trend, but why has this accelerated so much in past decade? The answer to this question is simple, and it’s due to the fact that unisex clothing gives people a voice. It makes a statement, and it is downright trendy these days. Due to the recent welcoming of multiple genders, sexualities, and gender fluidity, people have begun to express themselves more through their clothing choices. It is now encouraged to be who you want to be, and many designers are 100% behind that idea. You’ll be pleased to know that brands like H&M even offer unisex clothing lines. This trend used to be reserved for brands that were done by high end or independent designers. In 2019 you can find a lot of popular unisex brands at your nearest shopping mall.
Even stores like Pacsun, Reebok, Nike, Vans, Tillys, and many other retailers, have started to stock up on unisex clothing brands. The next you make it down to the mall, or pick up a fashion trend magazine like Vogue, you’ll definitely notice some interesting welcome additions. Conclusion Unisex clothing has been around as a concept for ages, but at the end of the day, a huge uptick in unisex sales has occurred. Instead of needing custom designs, you can find whatever taste you’re looking for right at your local shopping mall. The political landscape that we live in today has allowed people to truly begin expressing themselves, and this movement has given everyone a voice. So take a look at some popular unisex clothing ideas, and you might find that some are more appealing than you think.
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artist & ad index
Page C2 Olney Theatre olneytheatre.org Page 9 Speaking Truth Creative Time Summit http://creativetime.org/summit/summit-x/ Page 11 ArtDiction www.artdictionmagazine.com/shop
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Page 14 Eris Tran https://www.behance.net/ErisTran Page 27 Philadelphia Museum of Art philamuseum.org Page 28 Henar Sherif & Adel Essam, O art-Studio https://www.oart.studio/ Page C3 2019 ART021 Shanghai Contemporary Art Fair www.art021.org/ Page C4 Affordable Art Fair www.affordableartfair.com
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Fantasy Garden of the Gods Tyrone Webb
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