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CONTENTS

SEPTEMBER 2 0 1 7

FEATURES

130 136

WONDER WOMEN Three Aloxxi artists combine coloring, cutting and styling talent to create a collection that showcases artistic freedom. TAKING FLIGHT In their Birds of Paradise collection, Aveda takes inspiration from the tropics’ most colorful residents.

DEPARTMENTS

120

IN BRIEF A roundup of this season’s hottest runway looks, demonstrating strides toward a more inclusive spirit, featuring models of different sizes, ages, races and gender identities. THE CRAFT Aquage highlights a distinctively pale palette with precise cuts and timeless styling; Ramona Krieger uses Redken styling products to create braided styles for enigmatic female characters; Christina McCarver embraces big, voluminous, ‘60s-style bouffants with the help of Sebastian Professional products; a roundup of the hottest curling irons and wands; and a peek inside Ted Gibson’s toolkit. BETTER BUSINESS Local Honey, a high-end salon in Greensboro, North Carolina, celebrates its Southern roots with the help of ARROJO, Aveda, R+Co and Original Mineral; Rodney Cutler, Redken Brand Ambassador, offers smart ways to get clients out of a hair rut; John Paul DeJoria and the John Paul Mitchell Systems team ignited the crowd at Business rEvolution with masterful artistry, business-building skills and inspirational messages; Sam Villa, Redken Global Artistic Ambassador, encourages everyone to be positive on social media with his #ArtistsSupportingArtists movement; and the smartest consultation questions every stylist should know.

PHOTOGRAPHY: DORIT THIES

COLUMNS

110 AMERICAN CURL 112 MAN UP 114 SKIN DEEP 116 NAILED DOWN ALSO IN THIS ISSUE American Salon Online

Editor’s Letter

Cover Story

Hairbrained

Real Stories

140

Back Story

150

Word Play

156

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EDITORIAL Editor in Chief AMY DODDS; adodds@questex.com Creative Director DAPHNA SHALEV; dshalev@questex.com Executive Editor ANDREA DAWN CLARK; aclark@questex.com Senior Editor MAUREEN SHEEN; msheen@questex.com Senior Social/Digital Editor COURTNEY BRIGHT; cbright@questex.com Associate Social/Digital Editor MICHELLE MCKELVEY; mmckelvey@questex.com Editorial Intern BEATRIX WATANABE; asmintern@questex.com Eastern Editorial Office 757 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017; 212/895-8200 Western Editorial Office 8127 Melrose Avenue, Penthouse, Los Angeles, CA 90046 SENIOR MANAGEMENT Executive Vice President & Publisher JOHN MCMAHON; jmcmahon@questex.com Vice President of Content RUTHANNE TERRERO; rterrero@questex.com SALES/MARKETING Eastern Regional Sales Director ANTHONY R. GIANNOCCORA 212/895-8238; fax: 212/895-8219; agiannoccora@questex.com Western Regional Sales Director DANIELLE TIMSIT 323/966-4667; dtimsit@questex.com Eastern Sales Office 757 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017; 212/951-8200; fax: 212/951-8219 Western Sales Office 8127 Melrose Avenue, Penthouse, Los Angeles, CA 90046; 323/966-4667 Group Marketing Director TINA KASSIMIS; 212/895-8248; tkassimis@questex.com Marketing Manager NATASHA BHALLA; 212/895-8259; nbhalla@questex.com INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOWS Vice President, IBS Events LIZA WYLIE; 203/227-9875 To attend IBS New York: 800/427-2420 To attend IBS Las Vegas: 800/496-9861 To exhibit at IBS New York or IBS Las Vegas: 212/895-8234 PRODUCTION/CIRCULATION Audience Development Manager CAROL HATCHER; 216/586-5620 Production Director HAL GARSTEIN; 212/895-8439; hgarstein@questex.com Production Specialist LYNN ERDAHL; 212/895-8499; lerdahl@questex.com Senior Digital Imaging Specialist JON SHAW; jshaw@questex.com LIST MANAGEMENT MeritDirect ANTHONY CARRATURO; 914/368-1083; ac@meritdirect.com REPRINTS/LICENSING Wright’s Media 877/652-5295 President and Chief Executive Officer KERRY C. GUMAS Chief Financial Officer DEBRA S. MASON Senior Vice President and Chief Digital Officer STEVE KURTZ

Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use of specific clients is granted by Questex LLC, for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923. Phone: 978/750-8400; fax: 978/750-4470. Call for copying beyond that permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law. For those not registered with the CCC, send permission requests to Wright’s Media, 877/6525295. American Salon does not verify any claims or other information appearing in any of the advertisements contained in the publication and cannot take any responsibility for losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on such content. American Salon welcomes unsolicited articles, manuscripts, photographs, illustrations and other materials but cannot be held responsible for their safekeeping or return. Questex LLC provides certain customer contact data (such as customers’ names, addresses, phone numbers and e-mail addresses) to third parties who wish to promote relevant products, services and other opportunities that may be of interest to you. If you do not want Questex LLC to make your contact information available to third parties for marketing purposes, simply call 866/344-1315 or 847/513-6024 if outside the U.S. between the hours of 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. Please recycle this magazine.

To receive American Salon by mail, subscribe or renew at americansalon.com/magazine-subscribe or call 847/513-6024.

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Luxury Brand Partners is hosting their second annual Idealogue social media event in New York City on September 24-25. This year’s focus: Social Currency. Attendees will learn how some of the best artists, entrepreneurs, brands and businesses stay relevant in the high-speed digital world, driving their own economic and personal growth. Seth Godin, (@sethgodin) 18-time worldwide best-selling author and change agent, will lead the pack as this year’s keynote speaker, encouraging attendees to go against the societal grain and do something different with their social media platforms. Guests will get the chance to pick Godin’s brain during a Q&A following his motivational talk, and get first-hand marketing, leadership and social media tips FOR MORE on how to stand out rather than fit in with INFORMATION the crowd. This year’s speakers are a veritable ABOUT IDEALOGUE who’s who of social media elite, including: and to buy tickets Today Show tastemaker and YouTube for the event, personality Deepica Mutyala (@deepicam); please visit hair educator and author Jenny Strebe idealogue(@theconfessionsofahairstylist); and barber coterie.event sensation Julius Cvesar (@juliuscaesar) among brite.com. several others.

DON'T MISS VISIT AMERICANSALON.COM TO SIGN UP FOR OUR DAILY E-NEWS LETTER.

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EDITOR’S

LETTER This season’s runways indicate a trend towards more inclusive beauty, and we couldn’t be happier.

NONCONFORMIST

t was the summer of 1991, and some high school friends and I scored tickets to see Dinosaur Jr. at the Hollywood Palladium in Los Angeles. But we were really more interested in the opening acts: Hole and Nirvana. Now, if that weren’t cool enough—after all, this was just three months before “Smells Like Teen Spirit” made Nirvana a household name—during the show, my friends and I actually spoke with Flea, the bassist from the Red Hot Chili Peppers. He kindly told us gawking teenagers about the band’s new record, Blood Sugar Sex Magik (recorded in a haunted house, no less!), and talked about how much of the album incorporated different sounds from rap, hip-hop and other music genres. I clearly remember wondering at the time why the Chili Peppers would want to homogenize their music—why, if their band was known for their funk sounds, would they want to sound like another band, to have rap beats or jazz riffs? Back then, music identity was everything, and I couldn’t understand why you’d want to change it. Of course, now I get it. It wasn’t about diluting the voice; it was about opening it up. Different musical genres didn’t take away from the band; they enhanced it. And finally—finally—we’re seeing this in a meaningful way on the fashion stage. It seems as though the days of catwalks awash in a sea of uniform hairstyles slicked into submission like some parade of backup dancers from a 1980s Robert Plant video are done. Now, we see women whose runway stylists have embraced their natural texture, who have coiffed their hair into shapes that enhance their facial features. We are seeing women with different realistic body types walk the catwalk, as well as women with varied backgrounds and of different ages. And has any of this diversity taken away from the fashion house brands? Certainly not. It has only served to enhance them. Check out In Brief starting on page 57 for a deeper dive into this welcomed phenomenon on the catwalk. And what does this mean for you? Flip through this issue and see the myriad ways you can enhance your client’s innate beauty. You’ve likely never conformed to society’s standards of “traditional” beauty. Now it’s your client’s turn.

—Amy Dodds, Editor in Chief adodds@questex.com

PHOTOGRAPHY: PETE NGUYEN (DODDS); GETTY IMAGES (NYFW MARC JACOBS)

BEAUTY I

COVER

STORY

WRITTEN BY Amy Dodds

PHOTOGRAPHY Dorit Thies

Creating a cover shoot isn’t ever a one-person job, but Aloxxi takes it one step further.

DREAM TEAM

he Los Angeles studio in which Aloxxi shot their September cover was consistently abuzz with frenetic activity. One model would jump and swoop in front of the camera, creating the feeling of movement so integral to the theme of the shoot, while two others were tended to by a team of stylists. And the key word here is team. “From top to bottom, there is a team mentality at Aloxxi,” says Cassi Young-Paxton, Aloxxi Team Manager and one of the three stylists invited to participate on the shoot. “We can’t achieve anything great alone.” Young-Paxton was joined on set by Sam LaBella and Peggy Wright, both of whom loved being part of such a creative team. “Aloxxi’s spirit is one of ‘team,’” says Wright. “We support and respect each other’s creativity and know we can achieve so much together.” The ethos of the company translates directly into the theme of the collection, which is all about creativity, and what can be achieved when stylists are allowed to explore the variety of colors in their toolbox. And the fact that the models Aloxxi opted for were two women and one man only added to the familial, club-like vibe. Each stylist had a hand in every model’s look, from cut to color to style. “What truly made this shoot so special was the ‘all hands on deck’ mentality,” says LaBella. “The three of us had a blast working together. The direction was solid and the room to create and evolve the concept fueled us all—one of my favorite parts of working with the Aloxxi family.”

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HAIRBRAINED WRITTEN BY Sarah Federico HAIR Saco Creative Team led by Richard Ashforth PHOTOGRAPHER Colin Roy MAKEUP Marco Antonio FASHION STYLIST Tania Zekkout

The I.D.ENTITY collection from Saco is about “young people finding their own identity,” says Ashforth.

CREATING A COLLECTION Saco’s Richard Ashforth breaks down the creative process behind creating a collection that’s both impactful and uniquely you. CHECK OUT the entire collection at americansalon.com.

42 americansalon.com

September 2017

ichard Ashforth, Creative Director for Saco, an international salon and education community, embraced the spirit of youth, rebellion and individuality in Saco’s latest collection. I.D.ENTITY draws from the idiosyncratic work of dot artist Yayoi Kusama and the genius of Leigh Bowery, the late London-based performance artist. Just how did he do this? Though there are myriad ways to create a cohesive body of work, Ashforth employs a distinct formula for getting it right. Ashforth’s number one recommendation for creating a successful collection: “Don’t go looking for the initial inspiration. Instead, walk with your head up and your eyes open. Let it find you.” Collect and store images that speak to you, and periodically remove those that no longer resonate. Then, when it comes time to start thinking about a collection, find a theme within the remaining images. “They define the way I’m thinking and feeling during a given period.” Next, Ashforth researches images that he identifies with, and then makes a mood board. And, though accomplishing visual cohesion within a collection can be difficult, he employs a trick for getting it right. “I ask myself, ‘If this collection were a drink, what would it be?’ I continue to make a list, running through the same process, if the collection were a house, a bag or a shoe—whatever it might be.” These questions give his collections a distinct personality, and lets that personality guide him in creating consistency. Ultimately, Ashforth recommends getting a feeling for what it is that you’re trying to say, and saying it with clarity. He also stresses the importance of collaboration. “Get a good team together, and get their input. Be able to listen to other people’s opinions and ideas, and be open to diversifying. From there, you’ve got to follow your heart and your eye,” he concludes.

SHOW BIZ WRITTEN BY Amanda Copkov

Salon owner, educator and NAHAwinner Lisa Yamasaki presents a futuristic, steam punk-inspired presentation on the main stage.

▼ Thousands of beauty pros head into this year’s International Beauty Show Las Vegas.

his year’s International Beauty Show Las Vegas (@ibs_shows) was one for the books, attracting more than 22,000 salon owners, managers and beauty professionals from all over the world. Hosted at the Las Vegas Convention Center from June 24-26, attendees partook in more than 100 in-booth educational opportunities taught by some of beauty’s most knowledgeable educators, watched performances by industry icons, indulged in over 350 company exhibitors, received thousands of cutting-edge products and made invaluable networking connections. “This year’s conference program offered brand-new classes and subjects that drew droves of attendees, reinforcing that IBS Las Vegas offers exceptional education and opportunities beauty professionals need to succeed in the industry,” Liza Wylie, VP of Events said. Exhibitors Several of IBS Las Vegas’ leading companies showed off their new creative and innovative hair techniques, styles and products, from Pulp Riot’s easy-to-apply vibrant and pastel semi-permanent colors to Brooklyn-based Amika’s demonstrations of intricate braided styles with fun and quirky twists. More of the top companies included Andis, Aquage, b3 Brazilian Bond Builder, BaBylissPRO, Dreamcatchers, Gelish, Hairlocs, Hot Heads, Olaplex and Rusk.

International Beauty Show returns to New York March 4-6, 2018, and comes back to Las Vegas June 23-25, 2018. Check out ibsnewyork.com and ibslasvegas.com for more info.

44 americansalon.com

September 2017

Main Stage The Main Stage hosted the likes of Ryan Teal, Charlie Price, Martin Parsons, Oscar Bond, John Mosley, Ricardo Santiago, Aaron Johnson, DJ Riggs, Berry Bachen, David Thurston, Lisa Yamasaki, Lauren Moser and Rodrick Samuels, offering up tips, classes and demonstrations. Beauty experts sat in packed classrooms that hosted best practices from top experts in men’s grooming, nail care, makeup application and business-building.

PHOTOGRAPHY: BIG TOM PHOTOGRAPHY

▲ Pulp Riot displays their cutting and coloring chops during their main stage presentation.

Martin Parsons delights attendees with insight on creating breathtaking updos.

International Beauty Show Las Vegas

SHOW BIZ

WRITTEN BY Michelle McKelvey

Cosmoprof North America 2017 THE BUSINESS-TO-BUSINESS TRADE SHOW PROVIDED THE ULTIMATE NETWORKING OPPORTUNITY FOR BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS.

Attendees trying exhibitor products while receiving beauty treatments, makeup and styling from Glamour Me.

osmoprof North America (CPNA) serves as an essential meeting point for beauty pros, industry insiders and innovative beauty brands. This year neary 40,000 attendees made their way to the Mandalay Bay Convention Center July 9-11 for Cosmoprof North America 2017. The three-day, business-to-business beauty event offered the perfect opportunity to network with key industry professionals and retailers in all sectors of the beauty world. This year, Cosmoprof North America hosted a record-breaking 1,278 exhibitors, a selection of business-enhancing workshops and the highly anticipated North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA).

Influencers panel included (left to right) Kourtney Jorge, Felicia Walker Benson and Laiba Zaid.

Don’t miss Cosmoprof North America 2018 on July 29-31. Stay up to date on all things Cosmoprof by visiting www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

September 2017

Special Areas Another distinguishing aspect of the show were the trend directional areas allowing buyers to quickly get a pulse of what is up-and-coming across different categories. Making a return were Discover Beauty, Discover Beauty Spotlights and Discover Scent for specialty retail, along with Tones of Beauty for multicultural beauty and Discover Green for organic beauty. Unique to the show were curated sections where key buyers participated in “speed-dating” meetings with selected companies. Brand new to the show were Discover Green Leaf, where organic beauty brands met with key specialty retailers and chain spas focused on organic beauty such as Pharmaca and Auberge Spas, along with Discover Beauty Pro, where selected companies met with key national distributors like SalonCentric. Exhibits The industry’s top beauty brands brought the latest trends and products to Cosmoprof North America. Representing 45 different countries, top brands—including Inoar, Olivia Garden, Truss Professional, Rusk and BaBylissPRO—had the opportunity to market their products and expand distribution to an amazing sea of attendees.

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA

Education A wide array of educational workshops and presentations allowed attendees to learn from industry greats. Presentations included “The Social Game: Influencers” with Instagram and YouTube beauty influencers; “Scaling your Business with Style” with Cosmetic Executive Women, and a social media panel called “Influencers & Social Media: Transforming Professional Beauty Business,” with social media stars such as CosmoProf Brand Ambassador Larisa Love (@larisadoll), Pulp Riot Creator Alexis Thurston (@alexisbutterflyloft) and Brazilian Professionals Global Director of Education Alfredo Lewis (@alfredo_lewis).

Excited attendees make their way into Mandalay Bay Convention Center.

46 americansalon.com

The Transforming Professional Beauty Business panel discusses brand-building and the power of social media.

SHOW BIZ WRITTEN BY Michelle McKelvey

Moroccanoil’s Doll House collection

Blushes Salon in Ottawa, ON, won this year’s People’s Choice Award

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Mio Sota, Hairstylist of the Year

Hairstyling Awards 2017

THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY INDUSTRY CELEBRATES TODAY’S RISING STARS AND REVERED ICONS.

Matt Swinney, Haircolor category winner

Aveda’s Heggy Gonzalez, Editorial Stylist of the Year

Eden Sassoon wowing the NAHA crowd

48 americansalon.com

September 2017

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

Sam Villa, 2017 Lifetime Achievement Award Recipient

FTEN REFERRED to as the “Oscars of the hair world,” the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) recognizes the industry’s top talent while bringing together salon communities nationwide. This year’s star-studded event welcomed award nominees, cutting-edge artists and beauty professionals to Las Vegas’ Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino for an evening of excellence on July 9, 2017. The ultimate kickoff to the Professional Beauty Association’s Beauty Week, NAHA 2017 celebrated the beauty industry’s most talented artists and recognized the skill, vision and creative execution of both NAHA finalists and artistic presentations from innovative brands. The audience was mesmerized by the stunning stage presentations from NAHA Diamond Sponsors, including: Aveda, Beauty Underground, Moroccanoil, Living Proof and Mizani. Aveda brought to life their passion and commitment to protect clean water with their Liquid Life collection, where models wore hairstyles that appeared liquid-esque as they walked down the runway. Moroccanoil’s Doll House collection stunned attendees with life-sized dolls reminiscent of the Popovy Sisters—authentic looking dolls created by the twin sister duo of fashion designers Ekaterina and Elena Popovy. And, the night only got better from there. On top of 15 deserving award recipients, including Hairstylist of the Year, Mio Sota, appearances from industry icon Eden Sassoon and 2017 Lifetime Achievement Award winner Sam Villa made the evening one to remember and Oscarworthy within itself. For a look at all of the winning submissions, go to americansalon.com.

NO-FILTER BEAUTY HAS ARRIVED Create the trendy, tousled texture clients crave with the help of Invisiblewear â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a complete hair care and styling collection that makes chic simple. TM

To learn more and see Invisiblewear in action, visit paulmitchell.com. TM

taying relevant for decades doesn’t happen by accident, and no one does it better than John Paul Mitchell Systems. For more than 35 years, JPMS has combined a steady commitment to its innovative and iconic brand with an uncanny ability to understand what modern beauty consumers want and need. The latest evidence is Invisiblewear, the company’s new, groundbreaking, 10-SKU line designed to answer the demand for soft, textured hair achieved with as little time and effort as possible. Inger Berg, Senior Brand Development Manager for JPMS, reveals how the revolutionary line manages to meet consumers “where they live,” and helps stylists to do the same.

PAUL MITCHELL HAS ALWAYS BEEN AT THE FOREFRONT OF UNDERSTANDING THE TRENDS BEHIND STYLE. WITH INVISIBLEWEAR, WE'VE IDENTIFIED THAT TODAY’S CONSUMER HAS COMPLETELY SHIFTED TO A WHOLE NEW WAY OF WANTING TOUSLED, SOFT, TOUCHABLE HAIR .

Why Invisiblewear, and why now? The Paul Mitchell brand’s main strategy is to appeal to millennials, but also to their parents who were buying our products in the 1980s. Invisiblewear connects cross-generationally because everyone these days walks into the salon wanting those beautiful beach waves without that crunchy feel. This line is the perfect tool because it’s "of the moment"—it fits into everyone’s lifestyle, saves time and makes styling much easier. Invisiblewear embraces "the beauty of imperfection." What is meant by that? Berg: It’s a reflection of our times. People are talking less about Photoshop and more about anti-bullying. We all just want to be real, to be ourselves and embrace our existing lifestyles. That’s what Invisiblewear helps consumers do, because it fits their every need. The products extend style for two to three days, giving you the option to wear your hair up or take it down, do beach waves, make it straight, whatever you want. All of the products are layerable or can be used on their own; you really can’t overuse them. The message is: You don’t have to be perfect and neither does your hair. Easy to use and saves time—anything else that will make consumers swoon? Yes, the fragrance! We knew it had to be something you would want to wear every day because Invisiblewear is meant to extend your style for days. So we worked with high-end fragrance houses and developed a signature scent that’s the perfect blend of citrus and jasmine, plus some musky notes. It’s the equivalent of a fine fragrance for hair.

Invisiblewear products contain the ingredient amaranth, also known as “velvet flower,” to help produce the soft and touchable effect that consumers want for their hair. The flower itself is textural and fingerlike in appearance, which helps to create a visual connection between the ingredient and the desired result.

International Trainer for John Paul Mitchell Systems Jay Small has always paid close attention to how his clients’ lifestyles affect their hair needs. “My clientele includes a 13-year-old and a 75-year-old, and they both want to put the same amount of effort into their hair,” Small points out. “Talk to your salon clients about their routines, help them understand the type of hair they have and how best to incorporate these products into their style in a simple and timesaving way.” || Small explains how each product in the line has a specific role to play in the overall Invisiblewear story.

“After using this shampoo and conditioner, it doesn’t feel like the hair has just been shampooed or conditioned, and that’s intentional because you’re going for that ‘second-day hair.’”

“This is technically a leave-in conditioner for second-day hair. Use it on day two on dry hair and it adds isolation and spring to waves or curls. Clients say it makes them feel refreshed, and they love the scent.”

“These lightweight dry shampoos create just enough of a gritty texture so you can feel it but you can still run your hand through it. It makes the hair feel touchable and refreshing.”

“Clients who crave volume usually have fine texture, but most volumizers put too much weight on the hair. This product is lightweight and the dispenser won’t over-disperse.”

“Memory Shaper is like a conditioner meets a styling aid, for people who do more wet-setting. Put this product in, sculpt it and then let it air dry for 45 minutes. Then put your fingers through it to create touchable hold without an iron.”

“This product creates instant texture that’s flexible and movable. Someone might use this to prep the crown with their fingers. The coated hairs come together but with space, for three-dimensional depth. Plus, the hair stays responsive.”

“What stylists love about Orbit Hairspray is the application technology that was used to create its 360-degree applicator, so if you’re working underneath hair you can get the product to go where you want it to go. Plus you can easily layer it with Undone Texture Hairspray.”

“With this product you can pump a single stream of lightweight powder to the precise place you want it. Apply an inch off the scalp onto the hair, and you’ll draw oil from the scalp to the powder without it caking. This is probably my favorite product in the whole line!”

Lucie Doughty, Editorial and Digital Director

n image can speak volumes and, in this case, in more ways than one. Inspired by the theme of undone, carefree beauty, the JPMS team created and showcased voluminous, textured tresses at Invisiblewear photo shoots, under the watchful eye of Editorial and Digital Director Lucie Doughty. As she explains, the goal was to communicate the relatability and versatility of the lifestyle brand. Tell us about the inspiration behind the photo shoot. People today want less complicated, less fussy hair and they also want their hair’s personality to fit their lifestyle, so that was our main inspiration. Invisiblewear products lend themselves to a layering motif, so you can change your hair’s personality every day and still have a carefree, unfussy look. Instead of shooting in a studio, we did the shoots on location so it felt more organic. Is there a “typical” Invisiblewear consumer? The line works for everybody and fits any generation, but it definitely hones in on that busy, on-the-go woman who’s always multitasking and wants to spend less time on her hair but still be able to restyle easily—and have a cool look that makes her feel carefree and peaceful no matter what she’s doing. “Undone hair” gives us a sense of freedom, as though we’re always on vacation. For our videos we created a week in the life of a woman that took her through four different personalities throughout the week just by switching and layering the different Invisiblewear products. Why is now the right time for Invisiblewear? Texture is very important right now and everybody’s up for experimenting with texture. Invisiblewear provides the needed tools. It plays into the trend, with products like the dry shampoos and Undone Texture Hairspray, for example. The entire line is designed to help consumers either enhance their natural texture or create one in a way that makes it look as though it’s their own.

CREATIVE DIRECTOR: LUCIE DOUGHTY; HAIR: JPMS ARTISTIC TEAM; PHOTOGRAPHER: KATE POWERS; MAKEUP: FIONA STILES; WARDROBE: DEBORAH WAKNIN

THINK ABOUT a relaxed Sunday morning. You’re drinking your coffee, and maybe you put your hair into a top knot because it evokes good times, times when you’ve been on vacation and walked on the beach,” suggests Lucie Doughty, Editorial and Digital Director for John Paul Mitchell Systems. “Stylists and consumers can now use Invisiblewear to do that top knot where everything isn’t just all pulled up. There are still some ends left free so the hair looks a little undone and very natural, but has a bit of a fashion feel.” HOW TO GET THE LOOK: Apply Blonde or Brunette Dry Shampoo throughout base of hair to add volume and absorb oil. Use Pump Me Up around the hairline to add texture. Create a single ponytail on top of the head by finger-combing hair. Spray the ponytail with Orbit Hairspray and mold hair into a top knot. Secure with an elastic and three pins. Use Boomerang Restyling Mist to control tendrils and frame the face.

Relaxed, lived-in looks are easier than ever with the new Invisiblewear collection. TM

W H AT ’ S O N O U R R A DA R T H I S M O N T H WRITTEN BY Angie Reiber

BRIEF

FALL FASHION TREND

INCLUSIVE AF This season’s runways demonstrated that embracing individuality is always in style.

PHOTGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

ONE SIZE FITS ALL IS SO PASSÉ.

“We’ve entered a new phase of beauty, a really inclusive one,” confirms Guido, Global Creative Director for Redken and a mainstay backstage each season at the chicest trendsetting shows. Fall 2017’s catwalks made great strides toward diversity and inclusivity, with presentations featuring models of different sizes, ages, races and gender identities. With plussize models and transgender models, to models over the age of 70, this inclusivity is far more representative of the salon-going population, where stylists see a wide variety of hair types, textures and styles on a daily basis. There’s still a long way to go to truly reflect the diverse makeup of our world—after all, this was only the first season in which at least one model of color walked in every New York show— but it’s a promising start. Guido believes the fashion industry is waking up to that fact. “It’s about telling the story of each and every person who exists in this world,” he says. “You can really be who you are and you can embrace who you are.”

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

REALISTIC WOMEN Styled by Sebastian Professional, many of the models at Christian Siriano reflected individual beauty and a better representation of actual American women.

September 2017

americansalon.com

INBRIEF

INCLUSIVE AF

PRABAL GURUNG

Embracing Feminism Feminism comes in all shapes, sizes and colors—a theme common to many of this season’s shows. Nowhere was it so literally spelled out than on the runway at Prabal Gurung, which was styled by Wella Professionals’ Anthony Turner. The NepaleseAmerican designer ended his show with a parade of models wearing T-shirts emblazoned with empowering messages of inclusivity and women’s rights.

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CUSHNIE ET OCHS

Natural Texture

The Moroccanoil team, led by Antonio Corral Calero, showcased models’ natural hair texture at Cushnie et Ochs. From long waves to short coils, styles were tailored to the individual’s own tress type. “There’s been a lot less emphasis on creating one look for a show,” shares Guido, who estimates nearly 80 percent of designers opt for the more personalized approach to runway beauty.

PHOTGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

FALL FASHION TREND

IN BRIEF

FALL FASHION TREND

INCLUSIVE AF SIMONE ROCHA

Ageless Beauty Models Jan de Villeneuve (pictured left) and Benedetta Barzini, 72 and 73 respectively, prove that age is nothing but a number. Both walked for Simone Rocha, a show that featured several mature models in addition to the younger set, all coiffed by Oribe’s James Pecis. Designer Rocha expressed a desire to reflect her average customer in the casting, and she wasn’t the only one. Several catwalks, including Tome, styled by Aveda’s Antoinette Beenders, and Creatures of the Wind, dressed by Bumble and bumble’s Holli Smith, included models over the age of 50.

ALEXANDER WANG

Traditionally, for models at Fashion Week, the longer and straighter the hair, the better. At Alexander Wang, Guido drastically chopped models Cat McNeil (pictured) and Irina Kravchenko. “Before, a radical cut might have canceled you out of most jobs, but now designers are looking for more diverse looks,” says the stylist. More and more, women on the catwalks—and sidewalks—are embracing the shears and going shorter.

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MARC JACOBS

Gender Fluidity

At Marc Jacobs—one of the most inclusive runways at NYFW this season—all but two of the models wore tall, rounded hats, lending an air of gender fluidity to the presentation. Hair lead Guido coiffed model Dara, one of three trans models in the show, with a sideswept half-updo that had height and volume to seamlessly blend in with the hats.

PHOTGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

Short Hair

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ART & COMMERCE

“The technique for achieving a pale palette is often more difficult than achieving multidimensional color,” says Alvarez. “But it’s well worth taking on the challenge because it creates such strong visual arrest and impact.”

Less is more when it comes to styling and color in the latest collection from BaBylissPRO.

Pale Palette WRITTEN BY Amy Dodds HAIRCUTS Luis Alvarez for BaBylissPRO STYLING Nicole Gary for Aquage HAIRCOLOR Nogodar Martinez and Leslie Wilson for Rusk MAKEUP Thomas Smalley for Satin Smooth

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“Each of these beauties were color corrections,” says Alvarez. “We took our time to remove each varying existing tone with Rusk Deepshine White Luminating Powder and 20 volume for a low and slow, but consistent process. Once the hair was lifted evenly, we toned with our favorite mix of Rusk Deepshine 10.11 ash and Rusk Deepshine 10.13 ash beige permanent color with 7 volume on wet hair at the bowl and waited patiently (5 to 8 minutes) until that perfect pale was achieved.”

In a sea of rainbows,

sometimes it’s the absence of color that gets noticed the most. In a striking contrast to the popularity of bright, vibrant hair color, the team at BaBylissPRO created a collection that takes a step back to the classics: translucent tresses and crafting the perfect cut. Luis Alvarez, VP Marketing, Creative and Education of BaBylissPRO, gave models timeless, shoulder-grazing crops and wispy pixies, while Nicole Gary, working with Aquage products, kept styling simple and chic. RUSK’s Nogodar Martinez and Leslie Wilson delicately lifted hair to the palest palette possible, with breathtaking results. “After multiple seasons of color saturation, it was time to cleanse the palette,” says Alvarez. “We wanted to present the beauty of a minimalistic approach to color.” September 2017

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Before Alvarez cut the hair, the team first shampooed with Aquage SeaExtend Strengthening Shampoo and conditioned with Aquage SeaExtend Silkening Power Infusion, before blow-drying with Aquage Uplifting Foam and Aquage Beyond Body Sealing Spray. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The goal of the haircut was to create diffusion within texture, with beautiful angles that are quintessentially feminine, yet have the right amount of edge,â&#x20AC;? says Alvarez. To amplify the angles and texture, hair was styled with Aquage Transforming Paste Lite and finished with Aquage Finishing Spray.

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“My favorite part about the collection is the minimalist approach we achieved through solid blond color,” reveals Alvarez. “Even though the styles are bold and versatile, they look great on every type of customer, no matter the length or hair texture. It shows that a woman’s hair is her most empowering accessory.”

September 2017

americansalon.com

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Arwen Undómiel In J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings, Arwen is a gracious “half-elven” character. Her name means “noble maiden,” and that nobility is perfectly evoked in this precise, cleanlined style. “I used a combination of lace and French braid techniques. And, I braided them in a pattern with sharp, divided lines for a sense of dignity and strength,” says Krieger. “I like to work with liquids, pastes and a good hairspray to keep everything smooth. Redken Braid Aid 03 Braid Defining Lotion works really well in styles like these.”

Braid Love

“BRAIDSTYLIST” RAMONA KRIEGER SHOWCASES THE BEAUTY OF HAIR BRAIDING WHILE SKILLFULLY EVOKING THE PERSONALITIES OF POWERFUL WOMEN.

raids are having a big moment—from intricate braided styles featured on Game of Thrones to brides clamoring for elaborate braided updos for their big day. This braid resurgence couldn’t make selfstyled “braidstylist” Ramona Krieger (@love.2.braid) happier. “I actually learned how to braid from my mother, and I’ve been practicing since I was a little girl,” says Krieger. “I love the creativity that braided styles give a stylist. And, since I realized that braiding came easy for me and maybe

not as intuitively for everyone else, I started educating others in different braiding techniques.” For her latest Black & White collection, Krieger imagined specific braided styles for enigmatic female characters. “With each look, I searched for a name or a character that highlighted traits like innocence, purity, class, strength and power,” says Krieger, and the results are mysteriously beautiful. In the chilling words of badass braided queen Daenerys Targaryen, “Shall we begin?”

WRITTEN BY Andrea Dawn Clark PHOTOGRAPHY AND MAKEUP Belinda Terrisse HAIR AND STYLING Ramona Krieger CLOTHING Zara

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Katniss Everdeen Envisioning a hairstyle suitable for huntress Katniss Everdeen from The Hunger Games, Krieger created a Dutch braid folded to the front with metal pieces holding it together. The finished style is functional—for when a girl has to pull out her bow and arrow and fight someone to the death—yet stately with added height. “To give the featured Dutch braid added texture and grip, I used Redken Powder Grip 03 Powder,” says Krieger.

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Refined Duchess Looking at this photograph feels like gazing at a Renaissance painting, maybe an aristocratic young woman posing for her first portrait. “Here, I created two small Dutch braids on the side, and a bigger Dutch braid in the middle,” says Krieger. “Then I looped them inward, creating an oldworld charm.” For braids that sectioned perfectly but were still flexible, Krieger used Redken 06 Pliable Styling Paste.

I searched for a name or a character that highlighted traits like innocence, purity, class, strength and power. 70 americansalon.com

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Forest Fairy This updo feels ideally suited for an enchanted forest fairy—hair that’s regal, yet unconventional and a bit wild. Essentially, it’s a style straight out of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. “This look is a combination of a high-volume updo with a double micro braid wrapped around the hair,” says Krieger. To keep everything perfectly in place but still soft and flexible, mist the finished look with Redken Control Addict 28 Extra High-Hold Hairspray.

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September 2017

THE

CRAFT With a nod to ’60s era bouffants, the latest collection from Christina McCarver shows that bigger is better.

To create the voluminous looks on already dry hair, McCarver sprayed Sebastian Professional Texture Maker at the roots then blew out hair again. In a brick-lay pattern, she then curled the hair and finished with Sebastian Professional Shaper Plus and Sebastian Professional Re-Shaper.

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Big B

rigitte Bardot, Raquel Welch, Catherine Deneuve: These 1960s bombshell icons and their big bouffants served as inspiration for the latest collaboration between photographer Laretta Houston and Coty Senior Manager Prestige Education Christina McCarver. “Big hair is something that Laretta and I have always been drawn to,” says McCarver. “The look is iconic and it gives women confidence. It was powerful then, and still is today.” Although the look is retro, modern touches in makeup and wardrobe make the collection fresh and fun—and the looks are empowering as ever.

WRITTEN BY Amy Dodds HAIR Christina McCarver PHOTOGRAPHER Laretta Houston MAKEUP Francie Tomalonis MODEL Kate Wilson WARDROBE photographer’s own

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“Our goal was to get really large, exaggerated volume in the hair,” McCarver says. Hair wefts were added and an insert was used, which she created that day. “I back-brushed the hair pieces into her own hair for a seamless look.”

“The look is iconic and it gives women confidence. It was powerful then, and still is today.” 76 americansalon.com

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“There’s something that’s so feminine about large hair,” says McCarver. “That look is always in. Most women want volume. So long as you start with a solid foundation and the proper products, you can create exaggerated volume and super sexy styles.”

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WRITTEN BY Maureen Sheen

IRL

Guido, Redken Global Creative Director

GUIDO, REDKEN GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, TALKS ABOUT TWO TOP TRENDS TO TAKE FROM THE RUNWAY AND INTO THE SALON.

Alexander McQueen FALL/WINTER 2017

Calvin Klein 80 americansalon.com

FALL/WINTER 2017

September 2017

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FALL/ WINTER 2017

Ponytails never go out of fashion. They’re just updated every season in different ways. And this season was about the combination of very slick modern hair on top and naturalness in the length of the ponytail. It’s an easy look to achieve. You just need two key products—Redken Hardwear 16 Gel and Redken All Soft Argan-6 Multi-Care Oil—to create the dual textures, which is what gives this look a futuristic feeling and edge. But it can be adapted to your client depending on how much gel you apply to make it super wearable for them.

PHOTOGRAPHY: TERRY TSIOLIS

A lot of the shows this season were about embracing diversity and celebrating different textures, about bringing out individuality and not indoctrinating a style or trend. As stylists, we should be challenging our clients with the way we finish their hair, and not always reach for the round brush and blow dryer or the curling iron. Use different techniques like air-drying, finger drying or adding a product after drying to give hair a little texture. Show clients different ways of drying, styling and finishing their hair or adding products that maybe your client or even you wouldn’t conventionally think of. It’s all about emphasizing personality and individuality. There’s so much you can do to embrace natural texture nowadays.

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“This has become my favorite styling product to use on my clients with short to medium-length fine hair, for sure. With just a little bit of product, I can create a sleek finished look or any kind of movable, textured style that I want. This styling crème seems to plump the hair a bit for extra volume while the semi-matte finish means that there’s no leftover scalp shine in areas of lower density. I love it!”

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All Curled Up HOT TOOLS

Black Gold Extra Long Tapered Curling Iron The proprietary Black Gold surface combines the even heat distribution of 25K Gold technology with the durability of the Titanium design while nano-sized ceramic particles create an ultra-smooth, micro-shine, snag-free base, allowing hair to effortlessly glide across the styling surface. Plus, the extra-long barrel styles all hair lengths faster, especially long hair.

Care Tip Wrapping a cord tightly around a curling iron when storing it will cause the wires to pull loose where the cord connects to an iron. Instead, bundle the cord and secure it with a twist tie or Velcro. —Detra Smith, Hot Tools Artistic Director

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ARROJO

Curling Wand The ergonomic design of this clipless wand makes it easy to use and a breeze to maneuver. Featuring ceramic Tribostatic heating, a non-stick barrel and easy to handle design makes putting naturallooking waves and curls into modern shapes and styles effortless.

FHI

Style Tip For the most natural looks try a mixture of a flat wrap, twisted wrap and a halfand-half. Perfectly uniform curl patterns don’t happen naturally, so mixing it up is a great way to make sure the look is always soft and playful, rather than forced and overdone. —Andrew Arrojo, founder of ARROJO

Heat Platform Curling Iron The updated version features an oversized MCH heater for even heat distribution and three layers of baked ceramic infused with tourmaline for high shine and long-lasting styles. Improvements to the body include combining the on/off button with the heat setting dial, allowing stylists to turn it on and to their preferred setting in one fluid motion, and repositioning of the dial to keep the wrist and thumb in one line.

These sexy bends and waves by ARROJO put straight hair to shame.

Care Tip Clean your iron while slightly warm if product buildup has hardened. Lightly spray a brush with nylon bristles with a tool cleaning solution like the STYLUS Thermal Tool Care Kit. Using the brush, gently scrub the barrel in a circular motion. Once the tool is clean, wipe down with a soft, damp cloth.—Vanessa Bautista, FHI Brands Artist

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ARROJO

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CLEAN YOUR IRONS WEEKLY FOR MAXIMUM BENEFITS.—Jessica Domoney, Sexy Hair Artist

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Ellipse 1 ½” Hairstyling Wand A distinctive ovalshaped barrel that combines Teflon and titanium makes for the ultimate styling surface. It’s perfect for creating loose waves or effortless, undone curls on medium to long lengths. Adjustable temperature settings up to 410° F are displayed on an LED touch sensitive screen and a ceramic heater powers consistent temperatures throughout styling.

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Tools Curl Lock Pro 1” Ceramic Curling Iron With an incredibly fast 30-second heat up, this curling iron combines intuitive technology and superior styling. Dual heaters allow for even heat distribution while Smart Lock silicone strips on each side of the ceramic barrel create microtension across each strand for smoother, shinier, bouncier hair.

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Style Tip When wrapping hair around a curling iron or wand, leave out the ends for a more natural, undone look.—Albert Luiz, CHI Creative Artist Team Member

Style Tip One of my tricks is to curl with the iron pointing down, typically starting at the root for a more consistent curl. For a tighter, more spirally curl, hold iron vertically. For a softer, larger curl, hold the iron horizontally. —Jessica Domoney, Sexy Hair Artist & owner of Glambox Artistry

September 2017

SAM VILLA

Artist Series 2-in-1 Marcel Curling Iron & Wand 1” The unique design of this multi-use concept tool transforms it from a Marcel iron to a wand with a simple touch of a button, thanks to the detachable spoon. Plus, the 1” barrel circumference has a barrel length that’s 3/4” longer than traditional irons, making it ideal for longer hair styling. Style Tip More heat isn’t always better. A low 357° F is ideal for fine hair or techniques that require more working time like a figure eight curl. For color-treated hair, working at 392° F is recommended to protect the health of the client’s color. And a setting of 410° F is plenty of heat for more challenging hair textures or techniques where you’re moving fast, like a simple flat wrap around the wand for loose waves. —Andrew Carruthers, Director of Education for Sam Villa

PAUL MITCHELL

Pro Tools Express ion Unclipped 3-in-1 Curling Iron A La Carte Rods Featuring a clamp-free design, digital display and six interchangeable do-it-all ceramic barrels, it’s easy to create loose waves, natural-looking curls and ringlets with just one tool. The Unclipped 1” Bubble Rod is perfect for tousled waves and texture while the Unclipped 0.75-1.25” Reverse Cone is great for tight curls that transition to loose curls and the Unclipped 0.75”-1.1” Oval Rod is ideal for soft undone waves. Style Tip For perfect loose waves, wrap hair around the Reverse Cone horizontal to the head. Then break up curls using a hairdryer for a natural look. —Lucie Doughty, Paul Mitchell Global Editorial and Digital Director

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BEAUTY COUNTER

The new Paul Mitchell Neuro Liquid Collection protects strands from high heat for amazing style without the damage.

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REPÊCHAGE Perfect Skin Conditioning Lip Gloss makes lips pop while keeping them silky smooth thanks to an ultra hydrating formula of seaweed extract, cocoa butter, mafura oil and vitamin E and C, and is available in four skin-flattering shades. repechage.com

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REDKEN Diamond Oil Glow Dry Gloss Scrub washes away impurities using argan shells to gently buff hair without the grit. Applied throughout the mid-lengths and ends—not the scalp— the silicone-based scrub promotes high shine and speeds up drying time. redken.com

R+CO Skyline Dry Shampoo Powder adds extra grip and texture while absorbing impurities to refresh second-day or post-workout hair. The innovative non-aerosol pump delivers the powder with precision and control. randco.com

PAUL MITCHELL Neuro Style Lift HeatCTRL Volume Foam delivers body, conditioning and medium hold via a lightweight, volumizing formula that provides advanced thermal protection and reduces the rate of heat transfer from roots to ends. paulmitchell.com

HeatCTRL helps prevent the cuticle from cracking

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

A ROUNDUP OF THE MUST-HAVE PRODUCTS WE LIKED THIS MONTH

WASH

RESIST THE FADE LONG-LASTING VIBRANT COLOR RESULTS. EVEN AFTER 30 WASHES.* Our dye molecules are 1000x smaller than a hair ﬁber, allowing for deep penetration in every hair strand, and long-lasting color! That’s Kadus smart technology.

Take the challenge. #KadusRedsTortureTest *Based on consecutive wash test. Does not take into account environmental conditions such as heat or sunlight.

THE

CRAFT COLORTRAK Safari Chic Color Brush Duo includes a traditional firm bristle brush and a soft-feather bristle brush to cover all application techniques in a statement-making wild animal pattern. colortrak.com

JACK DEAN Flat Top Clipper Comb features a smooth, flat surface for clean and precise cutting, and an embossed thumb panel for excellent grip. It’s ideal for fading, blending, tapering, clipper-overcomb and flat top cutting techniques. denmanpro.com

Com es dou with a bleclea side d ns mitt ing

DERMALOGICA Precleanse Balm is an innovative wateractivated formula that transforms from a balm to oil to effectively remove even the toughest waterproof mascara, sunscreen, eyelash glue and costume makeup. dermalogica.com

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PINK PEWTER Never Let Go Color & Styling Comb features an innovative cutout design that allows the stylist to keep the tool in hand while styling. The heat- and chemical-resistant comb is perfect for backcombing, teasing, highlighting and balayage. pinkpewter.com

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Serie Expert PowerMix is an ingenious collection of precisely dosed hair treatments that address needs like color protection, repair, smoothing, strengthening and nourishing strands. us.lorealprofessionnel.com

SURFACE Curl Whip Mousse is powered by certified organic botanicals and glycoproteins derived from sugar to interlock the cuticle and cortex for increased curl control and anti-frizz styling support. surfacehair.com

ARROJO American Wave Glint Texture & Shine Spray repairs and protects dry ends, moisturizing strands with its lightweight formula for luscious and limber shapes and styles. arrojo.com

Can be used on damp or dry hair

MOROCCANOIL Perfect Defense is a lightweight, dry spray that creates a unique thermal protective shield to guard hair from high heats up to 450° F. It’s suitable for all hair types and can be cocktailed with any styling product. moroccanoil.com

GHD Classic 1” Purple Styler is a limited edition version of the original styler that revolutionized the industry when it first launched 16 years ago. It features highglide ceramic-coated plates, and a rounded barrel and edges to easily curl, wave and straighten locks. ghd.com

AGADIR Root Concealer temporarily covers greys and blends seamlessly with the surrounding hair making it the perfect solution for emergency touch ups and in between salon visits. agadirint.com

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Nicole Hartmann, Carla Gentile and Nikki Pittam on set with our cover girl

HARPER SALON IN LOS ANGELES PRESENTS A NEW TWIST ON THE “BLORANGE” TREND.

Strips turn see-through upon contact with haircolor to easily monitor processing

COLOR ACCESSORIES

800.308.3588 www.productclub.com Follow us!

hink of our cover look as “blorange with a twist.” Colorist Nicole Hartmann’s take on the trend that was hot as a pistol this summer is a bit more subtle than the fiery orange shade Gigi Hadid posted on Instagram early in 2017. “I think that’s where this trend is going,” Model Maria Granberg says Hartmann, co-owner of Harper before her makeover Salon in Los Angeles. Hartmann and partners Carla Gentile and Nikki Pittam assembled a team to create the look you see on our cover and in the accompanying story, Just Peachy, shooting on location in the trendy neighborhood on Melrose Avenue where the salon is located. From Fred Segal, an iconic ivy-covered landmark, to Jonathan Adler, a mod-influenced mecca of creative pottery and home décor, the area between Fairfax and La Cienega Boulevard in West Hollywood has transitioned from an iffy neighborhood of seedy shops and second-hand clothing stores to a diverse shopping district with a mix of designers like Marc Jacobs, home décor options and restaurants like Crossroads Kitchen, with its refined vegetarian menu. The neighborhood is also known for its graffiti, boasting some of the most Instagrammed street art in Los Angeles. EDITOR MARIANNE DOUGHERTY | ART DIRECTION STEPHANIE BIRDSONG COVER PHOTOGRAPHY GREGORY METCALF HAIR COLOR NICOLE HARTMANN | HAIR STYLING NIKKI PITTAM MAKEUP DAN MCFADDEN | FASHION STYLING WILFORD AND ANTHONY

COLLECTION SAFARI HAS BEEN REDEFINED. EMBRACE THE WILD SIDE.

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Ex eme THE DOWNSIDE TO EXTREME MAKEOVERS IS DAMAGE AND BREAKAGE. FORTUNATELY, THERE ARE MORE THAN A FEW PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET THAT ADDRESS THESE ISSUES.

Silver Whisper, a cool silver-gray with the deepest color right at the root, is one of Goldwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Modern Monochromatics.

s a colorist, it’s always a challenge to preserve the integrity of the hair when lifting more than two or three levels. That’s why we're so thankful for bond builders, whose protective properties allow for more creative freedom while helping to reduce damage with no added processing time. New to the game is Truss Professional, which has just launched 8 XPowder, a must-have for any serious professional who loves color and bleaching. The bond-building, damage-minimizing, plant-derived complex utilizes natural beeswax, combining nature’s ingredients with advanced protection technology to deliver optimum, visible results each and every time. Another plus: The game-changing product is eight times more powerful than anything on the market. Meanwhile, Malibu Professional offers a number of products designed to protect hair from damage before and after coloring. Celebrity colorist Marie Ferro, who owns Marie’s Hair Studio in Malibu, has been using Malibu Professional Crystal Gel for years to prep hair for chemical services, remove buildup and discoloration and save time while preventing redos. The power-packed antioxidant complex stops oxidation of damaging salon chemicals, including peroxide, while the multiaction formula provides soothing relief from scalp irritation due to chemical services. “With all the silicone-based hair care products on the market today, I find it more important than ever to create a clean canvas before starting any color service,”

Truss Professional 8 XPowder This breakthrough powder accelerates lifting and supports precise color results, while offering extra hydration, ultraprotection during the bleaching process and increased stability during the lightening process, without concerns of puffiness or swelling.

Ferro says. “Everything from product buildup to mineral deposits can slow and even stop the color process, which results in more damage to the hair.” The company also offers a highly potent supercharged hair shot called Rehabilit8 Protein Concentr8 Mixer that can be used as a standalone service or cocktailed with other mixers in the line. The highly concentrated complex provides an intensive shot of protein to nutrient-starved strands, penetrating deeply into the hair shaft to restore strength and resilience for dramatically healthier hair.

Before taking any client from dark to light, hair color icon Beth Minardi offers a strand test at no charge. “If hair has been colored mid to dark brown, black, burgundy or red, it will break off before turning platinum,” she says. Her solution is to mix powder lightener with 20-volume developer and place two to three foils right where the client can see them, usually toward the front of the head. After 20 minutes, she opens the foils. “If the hair is not approaching gold, not orange,” says Minardi, “then I tell them, ‘Houston, we have a problem’ and carefully rinse, condition and dry the strand before letting them decide how to proceed.” While Minardi loves creating very pale blond, white blond and platinum shades, she cautions that the best results are achieved on clients with blue eyes whose hair is a natural level 5 or lighter. Of course, if the hair is very, very short, achieving lighter blond results is much easier—think actress Michelle Williams.

Crystal Gel Wellness Hair Remedy Formulated with pharmaceuticalgrade ascorbic acid, the purest and most potent form of vitamin C, this groundbreaking add-on service creates a clean color canvas to prevent undesirable results, while the fresh-activation delivery system provides unparalleled benefits.

Rehabilit8 Protein Concentr8 Mixer A crafted cocktail of cardinal conditioning agents provides restorative rehabilitation, while advanced ingredient technology seeks out only weak strands to prevent over-proteinized hair. The targeted wellness solution serves as an exclusive insalon service designed to deliver optimal results.

MOVE OVER, ROSE GOLD. BLORANGE IS THE NEW TREND IN TOWN.

PHOTOGRAPHER: GREGORY METCALF; HAIR: HARPER SALON; MAKEUP: DAN MCFADDEN; FASHION STYLING: WILFORD AND ANTHONY

mashup of blond and orange, the hottest hair color trend right now is “blorange.” Think of it as the second cousin of rose gold, but with more peach or apricot tones that range in intensity from pastels to scorching hot shades of blood orange. Colorist Nicole Hartmann, co-owner of Harper Salon in Los Angeles, was itching to create her own version of the “blorange” trend, which almost always requires a bit of pre-lightening. Hartmann used 30-volume developer and a balayage technique to prepare her canvas before applying extralight copper and extra-light blond-copper on the roots. Then she alternated four different colors through the hair: rose gold, clear, coral and pastel pink. “I like to mix warm and cool tones,” says Hartmann. “Cool tones absorb the light, while warm tones reflect the light, which is interesting to me.” The result? A look that’s cooler than an orange Creamsicle on a hot summer day.

NOW THAT RAINBOW HAIR HAS GONE MAINSTREAM AND WOMEN OVER 50 ARE SPORTING PASTEL SHADES, IT’S SAFE TO SAY THAT DIRECT DYES ARE HERE TO STAY. WE TAKE A LOOK AT WHAT’S TRENDING NOW. On-trend pastel color effects from the newly enhanced Goldwell Colorance collection produce soft, gradual fading in five shades: Indigo, Lavender, Mint, Peach and Rose.

Pastels like this soft pink from Malibu C Professional are still trending.

With social media driving hair color trends, it’s hard to keep up with what’s new, but we’ll try. Instagram’s latest hair color trend? Sushi-inspired salmon pink, a combination of pink and peach shades. Marie Claire gave a shout out this summer to Cara Delevingne’s “sweet-pink festival hair.” Meanwhile, rose gold continues as one of the most wearable trends. California salon owner and colorist Glam Iris (@glamiris) is earning rave reviews for Smoked Peaches and Cream, which blends blond, tangerine and charcoal—think “sooty roots” dissolving into orange in the midsection and blond at the ends. “For a while, pastel colors were hot, and they’re still trending, but I think now it’s slowly transitioning into something a bit more muted, a bit more matte,” says Mio Soto, Goldwell Design Team member and Gold Partner Finalist. “The shades may not be as vibrant and loud as we’re used to, but they still pop. I think of them as a little more elegant.”

Revolution Neons from Alfaparf Milano come alive in the dark under UV lights.

With celebs like Tracee Ellis Ross, Blake Lively and Zoe Saldana stepping out in gowns from designers like Schiaparelli, Emilio Pucci and Oscar de la Renta in bright shades of lime green and raspberry, neon has been gaining traction as both a fashion trend and a hair color trend. Pulp Riot has introduced five new Neon Electric shades that are not only UV-reactive but also deliver the same benefits and performance of the original 16 shades. And Alfaparf Milano has launched seven new fluorescent direct dye colors like Shocking Green, Sexy Magenta and Atomic Yellow that are quick and easy to use on hair that’s been lifted to light or extra-light blond. Naturally, they come to life when exposed to UV light.

“The pastel trend is only getting better,” says Pulp Riot colorist Kelly O’Leary (@hairbymisskellyo), who has been diluting the Neon Electric shades with Clear. “The colors are so soft, yet they pop in the most beautiful way,” says O’Leary, who suggests adjusting the brightness by adding more or less Clear to the formula. “The amazing thing is how beautifully they fade over time.” Pulp Riot colorist Kasey O’Hara (@hairbykaseyoh) describes this technique as perfect for clients who just want a bit of color at the root. “For the most part I keep the ends blond or light, but you can add color at the ends to really create a unicorn mermaid,” says O’Hara, who finds that the look works with pastels and darker shades.

This popular technique allows you to seamlessly blend three contrasting colors together. Meredith Connors, Director of Education for ColorDesign, demonstrates the concept using direct dyes from Fun&Glam.

PHOTOGRAPHY: NICK BERARDI

(15g) ColorDesign Permanent Color 1.6 (15g) ColorDesign Permanent Dark Grey Corrector (60g) ColorDesign 7 Volume Developer

One bowl of pure Fun&Glam Caribbean Turquoise One bowl of pure Fun&Glam Explosive Yellow One bowl with 50g of Fun&Glam Explosive Yellow and 10g White Diamond

To execute this technique, Stephanie Lawrence (@hair_princess_steph) fills a spray bottle with water and adds a “good squirt” of Pulp Riot color. “I prefer Pulp Riot because it mixes easily with water and is still vibrant because of the quality of the dyes,” says Lawrence, who tests the mixture by spritzing it on a paper towel. “If it shoots out in a straight line, there’s too much color and not enough water. What you want is a mist.” Lawrence sections the hair, misting each section until it’s completely saturated before placing it between two pieces of paper foil. “The final outcome is almost like a watercolor. It’s soft and beautiful, yet still vibrant,” she says. “We melt and blend all the time, and this technique mixes things up and adds some fun to the application.”

Malibu C Concentr8 Colour is a revolutionary new concept that gives colorists total control of their art. This new category of hybrid color blurs the lines between direct dyes and permanent color and allows you to create custom color enhancers cocktailed for every client.

FIRST CREATIVE COLOR THEN #BLONDEAF NOW RAPID TONERS BREAK THE MOLD AGAIN

I HAVE A FEW CLIENTS who complain that their scalp itches after they have hair color, and I always tell them not to do things that will stimulate their scalp before a service, like drinking coffee that morning or brushing their hair that day. One trick I’ve learned over the years that minimizes the itching or burning is to add a dollop of milk, a packet of Sweet'N Low and a packet of Comfort Care to their hair color formula. It works like a charm.”—Celebrity Colorist Brad Johns

TOP COLORISTS SHARE THEIR TRADE SECRETS. I SPECIALIZE IN VIVID COLOR and color melting, so the most important part of my job is the blonding process. Colortrak’s Extra Long Professional Haircoloring Foil provides perfect incubation for extra lift.”—Colortrak Team Member Garrett Kenneth Roach KEEP YOUR SECTIONS small when lightening to allow everything to process more evenly, and never assume you’ll get a specific result. Sometimes hair surprises us, and that’s where the color wheel comes in.”—Colortrak Team Member Morgan Cunningham HIGH-LIFT BLOND shades, as well as shades lighter than level 8 (light blond) ,were not developed to cover gray. They were developed to lift far more than they deposit. And remember, good gray coverage is not a quick service. You’ve got to process permanent color mixed with 20-volume developer at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, and 45 minutes if hair is super thick, curly or coarse.”— Hair Color Icon Beth Minardi

TAKING PAINTING CLASSES to learn the art of holding a paintbrush can help when you’re trying to perfect the art of balayage. Painting classes also teach us to use different color schemes and placements that we may not have thought of ourselves.”—Teri Guardino, U.S. Director of Education, Alfaparf Milano

I THINK A LOT OF PEOPLE IN A SALON SETTING HAVE TO WORK FAST, BUT WHEN YOU TAKE THE TIME TO BE THOROUGH AND TAKE VERY FINE SECTIONS, YOU DON’T RUN INTO THE PROBLEM OF GOING BACK TO COVER AREAS YOU MISSED. —Mio Soto, Goldwell Design Team Member

PHOTOGRAPHER: ANDREW O'TOOLE

Colorist Adrian Rotolo of Ibiza Hair accentuated a short, textured cut with a charcoal flat base to accentuate highlighted ends.

FOR BEST RESULTS with any chemical service, it’s imperative to prepare your canvas. I use Malibu C Crystal Gel Wellness Hair Remedy to remove damaging impurities and color blockers that can hinder successful results, especially for clients with stubborn gray at the hairline. When it comes to application, thinner sections work best to ensure thorough saturation of color, and I even suggest using perm papers to keep hair fully saturated with color while processing.”— Anthony Barnhill, Malibu C Professional Lead Platform Artist/Educator

italian hair color

WE LOVE COLOR WHEN IT’S GOOD. THAT’S RIGHT. AND THAT’S WHY WE HAVE TAKEN OUT AMMONIA, PPD AND RESORCINOL AND WE HAVE ADDED RICE MILK, SUGAR AND THE MOST SPECIAL NATURAL INGREDIENTS. FROM PRECIOUS NATURE, THE PERFECT RECIPE FOR AN IRRESISTIBLE COLOR SERVICE: AN EXPLOSION OF PLEASURE FOR THE SENSES, ENTICING TEXTURES AND EXTRAORDINARY RESULTS . AlfaparfMilano USA Alfaparf USA www.alfaparfmilano.com

You will also have to use your valuable time to reapply it. EXTEND THE TIMING Once you’ve tried the first three steps on a client and you’re still having problems covering her resistant gray hair, start leaving on the color for an extra 15 to 20 minutes. This will really make a difference if you are using demi-permanent color. SWITCH TO PERMANENT COLOR Some

air color specialist David Velasco’s instructional book series, Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert, available from Product Club, covers in-depth theory on a variety of topics. Volume 3 in the series, Great Gray Coverage includes formulation secrets for working on hair that’s 75 to 100 percent gray, making gray hair blond and understanding red hair color bases. Here, he offers tips for covering resistant gray hair so you get it right the first time.

gray hair is simply too resistant and coarse to respond to demi-permanent color. If that’s the case, you probably need the extra amount of ammonia and peroxide, which only a permanent hair color can supply. You can still use the demi-permanent color on the lengths and ends for color balancing, while using the permanent hair color on the new regrowth only. DOUBLE PIGMENTATION Double

pigmentation is a technique used on very resistant gray hair for full head applications. It’s a technique whereby you actually use twice the amount of hair color than you would normally use. The trick is not to increase the amount of developer but instead to increase the volume from 20 to 30. What this actually does is give double the amount of dye load in your formula in order to try to infuse extra dye molecules into the cortex layer of the hair. Using 30-volume developer instead of 20-volume gives the formula more much-needed oxygen in order to develop the extra dye molecules faster, and at the same time remove some of the natural hair color molecules. PRE-PIGMENTATION WITH HAIR COLOR Pre-pigmentation is a

Diamond Shine, a gorgeous gray with subtle hints of beige and silver, is one of six single-hue essentials for fall/winter from Goldwell.

TAKE THINNER SECTIONS In order to get adequate gray coverage, each individual hair must be completely coated with hair color. Sometimes we tend to make our sections too thick, picking up way too much hair at once and putting tint on only the exterior of the section. When we do this, the hair on the inside of that thick section does not get adequately saturated with tint and the result will look patchy on the gray hair, or the gray hair will look stained but still visible. APPLY PRODUCT ON BOTH SIDES OF A SECTION As you pick up each section, be sure that to paint tint on both sides of the section, not just on the top or bottom of a section. I often see this when someone is in a rush to get through and starts looking for shortcuts. USE EXTRA PRODUCT If you try to skimp on product during the first application, you may find that you’ll need to use a second batch of product to redo the entire head.

technique used to achieve gray coverage on specific areas of the head, such as the temples, or any other resistant area. This is a twist on the old school principle we all heard about in beauty school called pre-softening, which recommended using peroxide, an acid, to swell the hair and raise the cuticle to allow for better penetration. I believe this to be wrong. An acid actually closes down the cuticle layer instead of opening it up. What you really need to do is pre-soften or pre-pigment with hair color, which is an alkaline instead of an acid. An alkaline product such as hair color will actually open up or swell the cuticle layer of the hair. This allows the color molecules to penetrate and develop deeper into the hair shaft in order to allow for maximum gray coverage.

Tired of using products without seeing immediate results? Deluxe Prime by TRUSS works from the very first application with results you can see and feel instantly. The powerhouse restorative spray controls frizz and promotes shine, while repairing damaged, brittle or chemically treated hair.

Precious Nature Hair Color from Alfaparf Milano comes in 49 shades, all enriched with rice milk and sugar. Call it kinder, gentler hair color. Extremely rich and creamy with an inviting fragrance, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not only gentle to the scalp but also free from ammonia, PPD and resorcinol. Choose from five color families, each customized with a natural ingredient, like cherry (reds) for its antioxidant action, honey (blonds) for its conditioning properties, caramel (warm browns) for more intense color, hazelnut (cool browns) for color protective action and chestnut (naturals) with repairing action.

The Detailing Brush from Colortrak is bound to be your new BFF, helping to achieve precise painting trends like undercuts, glitter roots, sharp lines and more traditional painting such as balayage and blending.

Now hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sweet ideaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Multicolor Caddy Bowls from Colortrak in Mint, Bubblegum and Lemonade. Complete with measurement markings and handles, the bowls click together with the center caddy pole and lock into place with a simple twist.

Air.Libre: low-chemical lightener for balayage (lifts up to 5 levels without foil or up to 7 levels with foil).

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Deluxe Prime Blond: treats, detangles and instantly neutralizes warm tones.

8x Powder: your powder bond builder for extra protection during coloring and decolorizing services (40 applications).

Considered the best blonde line in the world!

THE

CRAFT

WRITTEN BY Maureen Sheen

TED GIBSON

What’s In My Kit? Hattori Hanzo The Goka

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF TED GIBSON; XAVIER SCOTT MARSHALL

Hattori Hanzo The Talon

L’Oréal Paris Elnett Satin Hairspray Strong Hold

Mason Pearson Popular Mix Brush

Take a peek inside celebrity hairstylist Ted Gibson’s toolkit.

ed Gibson is one of the most renowned and celebrated names in the industry with a roster of Hollywood A-listers like Debra Messing, Kate Walsh, Ashley Greene, Priyanka Chopra and Lupita Nyong’o for clients. Plus, a mile-long list of editorial and runway credits under his belt. So when it comes to getting the job done, what are the go-to tools and products that the celebrity stylist and beauty influencer relies on? “I carry a big Rimowa suitcase that has two compartments. One side holds extensions in every color, wigs and my tackle box with pins, grips, elastics, headbands, double-prong clips and duck bills,” says Gibson. “The other side holds a bag full of just hairsprays that go from light to strong holds, another bag with products like volumizing gels, mousses, sprays, blow drying agents, smoothing creams and oils for taming flyaways,” And when it comes to his giant case of shears, “I have a triple shear that Horst Rechelbacher gave me over 20+ years ago that say Horst International on them. Also, I carry a 4420 from my beauty school days, three pairs of Hattori Hanzo Shears, a pair of Aveda shears and Mizutani ACRO-TYPE K Titanium Black.” His brushes? A Mason Pearson Popular Mix Brush, YS Park medium sized dual bristle, two French Delorme boar bristle brushes in medium and large—which are only available in Paris. “My brushes are some of my most important tools,” says Gibson.

September 2017

Mizutani ACROTYPE K Titanium Black

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AMERICAN

CURL

WRITTEN BY Andrea Dawn Clark

KEVIN HUGHES, MOROCCANOIL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, EXPLAINS WHY CURLS AND CLEANSING CONDITIONERS ARE SUCH A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN.

Cleansing

Me Softly C Q How are cleansing conditioners

Moroccanoil Curl Cleansing Conditioner has an “almost bubbly” consistency, making it feel more like a shampoo than a conditioner.

Morocccanoil’s Kevin Hughes styling his “curly muse,” model Jasmine Sanders

Q What makes a good cleansing conditioner?

A It’s important to look for extra-hydrating, gentle ingredients.

effective at removing buildup and oil? A Because curly hair has less moisture than straight hair, the oil

Moroccanoil Curl Cleansing Conditioner features an argan oil−infused formula to effectively cleanse while detangling and intensely conditioning. Curls have suppleness and bounce after using the product. The cleansing conditioner is also formulated with vegetable proteins and other natural oils, leaving curls shiny, smooth, soft and frizz-free.

from the scalp doesn’t move down the strands as much. Cleansing conditioners use natural oils to whisk away that buildup and oil at the client’s scalp, while simultaneously moisturizing the drier ends of their hair. Cleansing conditioners work similarly to oilbased face cleansers and makeup removers. The product uses an oil emulsion to provide the gentlest form of cleansing.

Q How often should a stylist recommend a client use

Q What’s the best method for using a cleansing

a cleansing conditioner? A It all depends on how thick or thin the client’s hair is, that’s what

conditioner at the salon? A Treat it like a normal shampoo, but ensure that you cover

determines how often they should use a cleansing conditioner. Usually a curly client cleanses her hair once or twice a week. You can use Moroccanoil Curl Cleansing Conditioner regularly, but I recommend telling them to occasionally alternate back to a traditional shampoo and conditioner for a deeper cleanse.

the whole scalp, from the front of the hairline all the way to the nape of the neck. I also suggest adding a little extra water to help distribute the product. This allows you to more effectively massage the product in, for a deeper cleanse.

A FEW OTHER CLEANSING CONDITIONERS TO TRY… R+Co Analog Cleansing Foam Conditioner has a light-asair texture and weightlessly softens and conditions curls in one step.

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MIZANI True Textures Cream Cleansing Conditioner uses coconut, olive and marula oils to cleanse and condition at the same time.

AVEDA Be Curly Co-Wash removes buildup from curls, cleanses the scalp and moisturizes the hair with organic babassu oil.

UNWASH Bio-Cleansing Conditioner removes dirt and buildup without stripping away healthy oils, locking in moisture and upholding curl integrity.

ARROJO American Wave Rogue Co-Cleanse refreshes curls without causing dryness, while a mix of chamomile and vitamin E keeps curls healthy.

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF MOROCCANOIL

leansing conditioners, those ever so creamy shampoo alternatives, have always been a big hit for curly clients, and there’s a natural reason why: “Curly hair tends to be more fragile and dry in nature,” says Kevin Hughes, (@hairbyeleven) Moroccanoil Artistic Director, “and cleansing conditioners maintain that natural moisture balance.” Here, Hughes dives deep into the happy union of curls and cleansing conditioners.

Colors Everything

No more limits for professional hair color artistry

AlfaparfMilano USA Alfaparf USA #PigmentsmaniaUS - Public Group

MAN

WRITTEN BY Andrea Dawn Clark Mandee Hernandez created a long men’s look with lots of texture for Maiden Noir’s New York Fashion Week show. ▼

Hoang’s Private Policy genderless shag look

Oribe’s Kien Hoang styles backstage at Private Policy’s New York Fashion Week show

1. ANDROGYNOUS SHAG

THE HOTTEST MEN’S HAIR LOOKS COMING OFF THE RUNWAY.

s every smart stylist knows, once you start seeing a look on the runway, it’s only a matter of time before you start getting clients requesting the style. We talked with Kien Hoang, (@kienhoang) Oribe Director of Content and Training, to find out what men’s trends you should look out for.

2. NATURAL CURL We are seeing a lot of extremely curly hair kept more natural and grown out. It’s a resurgence of the natural afro, but shaped, rounded or dreaded.

3. BOWL CUT There were a lot of rounder shapes for men on the runway. The hair cuts right across the eyebrows—it’s a very Gucci look. It has that ‘70s, Beatles vibe, but is more refined with texture so that it moves, and it’s not too geometric. Texture is cut right into the bowl, making it more updated and wearable.

4. SHAVED HEADS This look is more military, clean and hypermasculine. A lot of this season’s clothing had a military or uniform vibe. When you have a shaved head, it works really well with these fashions. We’re even seeing it on female celebrities, making it very androgynous.

5. BELOW THE SHOULDERS I saw a lot of extremely long hair on men. It’s a little more witchy and wild in terms of texture—really amplifying a man’s natural waves and seeing the separation at the ends. It’s at the opposite end of the shaved head spectrum. It’s men embracing and loving their hair, and designers love it.

6. MIDDLE PART “For this show, the brand didn’t want anything too forced. We’re allowing the guys to be their authentic selves, with natural textured hair,” says Katie Lopez, Baxter of California Stylist, of the looks at the Teddy Ondo Ella runway show.

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The past two seasons we saw a lot of pompadours, but this season it was more of a relaxed look—think of a man raking his fingers through his hair with a defined or slightly off-center part. The hair is pulled away from the face, giving it a vacation feel.

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ORIBE; BAXTER OF CALIFORNIA/THE STREET, SENSEI

Men on Trend

We saw shags a lot in shows where the clothing felt genderless. This male shag has more of a rock ‘n’ roll, textured look. It’s mullet-esque with hair draping on the neck, and the fringe area is really choppy. This is a full departure from the Wall Street, buttoned-up man. It’s more midlength and effortless.

ThereĂ&#x2022;s a

new Kid

in town

The

o d a r Colo Kid

1(800) GIBSMEN www.gibsgrooming.com

DEEP

SKIN

WRITTEN BY Maureen Sheen

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF AVEDA

The Age of Enlightenment Y

ou know the saying, “an ounce of prevention…” But even with the most super diligent skincare, hyperpigmentation has a pesky way of popping up. So when clients come in seeking complexion perfection, what’s the best way to address dark spots and discoloration? Our experts give us the latest on the treatments and products for brighter, more even toned skin.

What are the latest solutions for correcting hyperpigmentation? A Hydroquinone has been used for many years as a bleaching agent to lighten skin, but can cause sensitivities. Newer technologies like oligopeptides have been discovered to be effective yet more gentle than hydroquinone. They help prevent the transfer of melanin without bleaching the skin or causing unnecessary sensitivities. Dermalogica uses two different forms of oligopeptides in the PowerBright line to help treat different forms of hyperpigmentation. —Elizabeth Jones, Advanced Instructor at International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica

Which protocols yield the greatest results in the treatment room? A Superficial TCA (trichloroacetic acid) blends are a good choice for in-office peels. These will help with surface texture as well as discoloration. Retinol peels and retinoid boosters are also great choices for hyperpigmented skin. PCA SKIN has a variety of peels for different concerns. To obtain maximum benefits, skin professionals should have clients come in every three to four weeks for a series of three to six peels right out of the gate

Bright glowing skin thanks to Aveda’s professional treatments.

and are recommended as weekly treatments. —Helga Hefner, Aveda Manager of Professional Skin and Spa Education

What should estheticians keep in mind when addressing hyperpigmentation in women with naturally darker skin tones? A The most important thing is to never spot treat a hyperpigmented area. This can cause a halo of lighter skin around the darker spot, which can make the area look worse. Often hyperpigmentation is caused by physical trauma like pimples, cuts or burns, but the entire face needs to be treated, not just the spot. A controlled, gentle glycolic peel, with an at-home brightening skin care program is recommended. —Lydia Sarfati, Repêchage CEO and Founder

BRIGHTER DAYS HELP CLIENTS KEEP UP THE RESULTS AT HOME WITH THESE POWER PRODUCTS.

—Taylor Pollei, M.D. and PCA SKIN Ambassador

Does exfoliation help? A Facial treatments with exfoliation as the focus produce significant results to help with hyperpigmentation. We at Aveda have three services that focus on exfoliation—Botanical Skin Resurfacing Treatment, Perfecting Plant Peel and Dual Exfoliation Peel—to treat hyperpigmentation,

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September 2017

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WRITTEN BY Maureen Sheen

Fall Forecast

rom clean designs to metallic accents to contrasting textures to fine art−inspired looks, the fall runways proved that nail art is here to stay. Here’s a sneak peek of what to expect this fall season, direct from Fashion Week’s top nail artists.

Alicia Torello,

Fringe adds a playful and sexy element of movement.

Shelena Robinson, CND Education Ambassador “The overall trend was toward refined details in the nail looks from NYFW fall/winter 2017. One trend that was really on point was ‘framing’ the nail. It started with The Blonds, who chose a very elegant, nails-as-jewels approach where the nail styles within the frame resembled precious gems. The frames varied from simplistic elegance to more elaborately embellished, but they all drew the eye to the art within while providing the illusion of a more graceful, sleek nail.”

While polish is still a bit tacky, place the gold foil on the nail, advises Torello.

Heavily pigmented, colorful patterns were very bold this season.

“The overall trend was toward refined details in the nail looks.” 116 americansalon.com

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Use striping brushes to swipe color across the tips.

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES; ESSIE; OPI; CND

OPI Celebrity Manicurist “For the fall/winter shows, there were a few nail concepts that kept popping up. One was the use of metallic elements like striping tape, gold foil or glitter polish. Another was creating a simple, clean design like an accent of color or nude nails with gentle nail art to complement the nude. Because these looks are clean and simple for clients to wear, they’ll easily trend.”

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DOWN Models wearing Essie at Christian Siriano’s AW 2017 show

Rita Remark, Essie Global Lead Educator “Rather than an accessory, our nails have become little works of art. Unique, imperfect and striking describe some of the fine art−inspired looks that we saw on the runway. For Christian Siriano, I created a nail look that mimics the wavy patterns that the sand creates, using glamorous colors and textures. By making sure the waves move in different directions on each nail, it’s easier to execute the design and makes for a more interesting result.”

“Our nails have become little works of art. Unique, imperfect and striking describe some of the fine art-inspired looks.”

Essie Carry On, Leggy Legend, Splash of Grenadine and A Cut Above were all used for this design.

Bryan Vu, Gelish and Morgan Taylor Lead Educator “Whether it’s the nail art or the nail shape, nails are making a statement this season. Expressive bold prints— like the ‘matchy-matchy’ nail art look—contrasting textures and long, edgy nail shapes will be powerful this fall. Now more than ever, women

aren’t afraid to express themselves, and their nails are no exception. Because these looks can be easily translated in the salon for all clients, they resonate even with the most conservative of women. She can play with texture using matte and glossy topcoats to create contrast, even on a classic nude manicure.”

“These looks can be easily translated in the salon—they resonate even with the most conservative of women. She can play with texture using matte and glossy topcoats.” Contrasting textures and long, edgy nail shapes are a big fall trend according to Vu.

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WRITTEN BY Andrea Dawn Clark

I D E A S T H AT I N S P I R E S U C C E S S

Jay Bulluck, owner of Local Honey, with Lauren Ladd, Creative Director

Local Honey, a high-end hair salon in Greensboro, North Carolina, fully embraces its Southern roots.

SOUTHERN W

hen Jay Bulluck decided to open a hair salon in his hometown of Greensboro, North Carolina, he got his inspiration from an unexpected place—the honey stands found along the winding highways from the majestic North Carolina mountains to the picturesque beaches along the state’s coastline. “The salon is a direct reflection of my life experience, being a part of a state that has so much diversity, just like the many varieties of honey found in North Carolina,” says Bulluck. “Our local honey has a unique flavor and color based on the pollen the bees harvest. It was that regional uniqueness that I was after for the salon.” Everything in his salon feels straight out of a comfy Southern living room. Sitting in the waiting area, guests are offered a true North Carolina beverage—from a “Southern soda” such as Cheerwine or Sun Drop, to the salon’s proprietary tea made with local herbs and sweetened with, of course, local honey. Guests can flip through books by Greensboro natives—

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Local Honey’s distinctive North Carolina−inspired waiting area

Bulluck sometimes even brings in these authors for readings in the salon—or lean back in furniture made in the renowned High Point, North Carolina, furniture region. And, if the mood strikes, they can browse through Local Honey’s one-of-akind apothecary. “I wanted to put my own spin on the Local Honey apothecary by stocking it with locally made or sourced products,” says Bulluck. “Having the apothecary creates a unique experience that separates us from the other salons. It also allows us to pull from a completely different revenue stream than hair. It creates a retail environment that’s a destination, not an afterthought.” To keep his stylists up to date on cutting edge products and techniques, Bulluck stocks his salon shelves with some of the top brand names that work perfectly with the salon’s “guests first” philosophy. “I look for lines that I can partner with to build our brands together, and companies like ARROJO, Aveda, R+Co, Mason Pearson

Honey is sold at the salon, created by the bees and pollen in the area

and Original Mineral are a natural fit,” says Bulluck. “When considering ARROJO, Nick personally called and set up the account with me. Then he came to the salon as a guest artist.” Bulluck considers these continuing education and enrichment programs vital to his business because they keep both emerging talent and veteran stylists inspired. “I need to build the best staff that I can. I know that preparing my employees for success allows us to serve our guests better than the competition.” After talking with Bulluck you can fully understand the meaning behind Local Honey’s tagline, “Old fashioned luxury for discerning ladies and handsome gents.” Bulluck puts whomever he’s working with first—be it a guest at his salon, a valued member of his staff, or an inquisitive beauty journalist—giving them his undivided attention. Bottom line: He’s going to do whatever it takes to deliver his best work, with a dash of good ol’ fashioned Southern charm.

PHOTOGRAPHY: BERT VANDERVEEN

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BUSINESS

WRITTEN BY Andrea Dawn Clark Rodney Cutler, working his magic backstage at the Taoray Wang NYFW show

THE RUT BUSTER Rodney Cutler, Redken Brand Ambassador, offers up smart ways to help clients push past their boundaries and try a new cut, color or style.

’ll just get a trim. Let’s go with my usual highlights. Do exactly what you did the last time. Stylists and colorists usually follow these instructions to the letter, but let’s be honest, there’s that nagging urge to say: Try something new, it’ll transform your look. Yet, for some clients, pushing past these personal style boundaries can be a big mental challenge. To learn how to gently but effectively sway a client into trying a new cut, color or style, we talked with Rodney Cutler, (@cutlersalon) Redken Brand Ambassador. Here’s his tried-and-true method for busting a client’s rut.

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1/ Talk it out. It’s all about planting the seed of change. Start having a conversation about a style, cut or color variation long before the client is ready to take the plunge. It’s about steering them towards an “in the future” hair suggestion. This gives the client time to think about the hair suggestion, without the pressure of an appointment. For example, if it’s the middle of the summer, pitch a change for the fall or winter—which is a great time for a client to change her look. This also gives you a few months to plan for the change— products and tools that you might need—while they’re preparing themselves.

2/ Give ‘em homework. Ask your client to bring in images of some different styles she likes and can relate to in some way—whether it’s a celebrity with similar features or someone she admires. This establishes a style setting that she feels comfortable in, allowing you to work within that framework. Even if you don’t agree with her references, it sets a tone that you know she feels comfortable inhabiting.

September 2017

CUTLER BROOKLYN:

Small Yet Mighty Rodney Cutler just opened his newest hair salon in Brooklyn, New York. And, with only 14 chairs in Cutler Brooklyn, this smaller-sized salon is a departure from his famed SoHo salon. “We’ve always tried to create salon space that represents not just our brand, but the neighborhood. This salon has a homey, Brooklynesque feel,” says Cutler. “When you look back to the early ‘90s, there were all these massive salons. If you didn’t have a monster salon, you weren’t taken seriously.” But now with social media, you have the ability to impact the beauty community without that “mega salon” presence. Cutler likes to think of the salon size variation almost like restaurants. “Obviously the guest wants the food to be great, but certain clients and staff members crave a big restaurant experience, with all that buzzy excitement—that’s Cutler SoHo. While other clients want a cozy, intimate experience. You can’t be all things to all people, and I think that’s okay.”

3/ Learn about their life. Sometimes people just aren’t in the right frame of mind for a change. As a stylist you’ve got to fully understand what your client is going through in her life. Is she at a point in her life where a change is going to empower her? Or will a change in her hair bring on an unnecessary new stress? Being in the right frame of mind is crucial, ensuring she’s really ready for a change.

4/ Pull the trigger. Once you’re done, make sure you reassure her that no matter what happens, no look is forever. Fully explain what she should be doing at home for her new style, cut or color—making sure she doesn’t experience “buyers remorse” later. And, set up a plan for the next six months. How often should she come in for maintenance? What changes can she expect as her hair starts to grow out or a color starts to fade? Prepare her for everything she could experience.

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF REDKEN/CUTLER SALON

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Finished looks using the new Neuro Style collection.

WRITTEN BY Maureen Sheen

Robert Cromeans discussing the success of Kim Bennett Studios with Kim Bennett Horvath.

CUTTING EDGE W

John Paul Mitchell Systems holds their annual, sharper-than-your-shears business-building forum.

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BUSINESS REVOLUTION 2017 TAKEAWAYS Winn Claybaugh (@winnclaybaugh), Dean, Co-Founder and Co-Owner Paul Mitchell Schools, spoke to the necessity of cultivating and maintaining a positive salon culture to attract millennials. Focus on leadership and presence, Claybaugh maintains, rather salon décor: Today’s salon culture should be about inspiring people. “The millennial generation is the most high-maintenance workforce in the history of the world,” says Claybaugh. “The good news is they’re also going to be the highest performing workforce in the history of the world.” Salon owner and Instagram guru Larisa Love (@larisadoll) stressed the importance of taking your social media to the next level. Love recommends embracing digital and social platforms, and being creative with your posts. Namely, she says, move beyond photos of the back of the head: “People love to see transformations,” she says. Increasing followers, boosting the quality of your content and including transformational posts will increase salon traffic and dollars. Owner of Hollywood Hair Salon and Spa in Centralia, IL, Sonya

Co-Founder and Chairman of the Board John Paul DeJoria opens Business rEvolution 2017 in Las Vegas.

Gettinger (@hollywoodhairsalon) is proactive about increasing tomorrow’s traffic by taking the front desk to the guest. She set up a concierge to approach the guest while the stylist is wrapping up, speeding up checkout and preparing a take home. This tactic has upped her salon’s reschedule rate from 80 percent to 95 percent. Today, Kim Bennett Studios does over $1 million in business in a town of just 15,000 people. For Terri Cowan (@pscthespace), Owner of Professional Salon Concepts in Rockdale, IL, having a critical eye for your business is key. The goal is to create a magical experience for your clients every time by identifying bottlenecks that take away from a visit and providing conveniences instead. This tactic, she says, builds a closer client bond and cultivates true customer loyalty.

PHOTOGRAPHY: BIG TOM PHOTOGRAPHY

hen John Paul Mitchell Systems started Business rEvolution in 2015, it was in direct response to the industry’s need for game-changing, up close and personal business coaching. And this year’s knock-out event didn’t disappoint. “Every year we challenge ourselves to connect our industry to the world’s top talent, and our goal this year was to provide curated content that the attendees could craft themselves,” says Greg Bonhomme, John Paul Mitchell Systems Director of Shows and Business. Innovative changes to the program’s format were exemplified by half-hour breakout sessions with special guests who covered a broad range of relevant hot topics. Robert Cromeans spoke about business strategies for increasing income, while Terri and Steve Cowan went over fundamental salon best practices, and Bridget Kirby and Greg Bonhomme presented easy-toimplement solutions for maximizing the guest experience through visual branding. Plus, the day’s lineup of inspirational speakers and content welcomed the likes of John Paul DeJoria, Angus Mitchell, Jason Yates, Lucie Doughty and Winn Claybaugh to the stage. “We’re more than just a product company,” says Jason Yates, John Paul Mitchell Systems VP of Sales and Marketing. “There’s so much more behind the bottle than just great products. We want to make sure our partners shine and succeed above everyone else.”

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WRITTEN BY Amy Dodds

Asking the right questions before every service ensures your client’s happiness—and your good name.

ASKED AND ANSWERED

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“How much time do you spend styling your hair?” This is key because it literally dictates what we should do. For instance, if someone lets their curly hair air dry, we would not promise them a sleek, straight shiny bob that takes 45 minutes to smooth out. Instead, we might do stacked wedge or square, layered cut to use the curl to dramatic advantage. —Charlie Price, Founder of the Beauty Underground Artistic Team

“When you walk into a room, do you like to turn heads and be noticed, or would you rather be subtle?” This question connects with guest, ensuring them that you truly care about them. The answer gives the stylist direction in design as well as styling products. And what if the answer is “both”? Now you can teach styling options. —Wayne Grund, President and Co-Founder of Surface Hair Care

“How would you like your hair to feel?” Every client wants a healthy scalp and healthy hair—but does a client want hair that feels smooth, curly or even beach-y? Knowing this answer assists with styling as well as retail. You can send your client home with the exact maintenance products that meet their needs. This discovery process is critical because it helps align the interest of the client with an outcome that encourages trust, fulfillment and a long-term relationship. —Andrew Dale, Founder and CEO of UNITE

Non-Verbal Communication A great consultation goes beyond simple question and answer, says Rebecca Beardsley.

➛ Begin each consultation with a hand on the shoulder, which grounds your client, letting her know you’ve got this. This simple gesture also allows you to be present during the consult and focus on hearing her responses.

➛Preferably be seated facing your client, or raise the chair so that the client is at eye level with you. Do not do your consultation while looking at your client in the mirror. ➛ When talking to your client, make eye contact and keep your arms unfolded.

PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

t’s only natural that hairdressers may forget the excitement, dread, nervousness and expectation clients feel when they sit in the chair, waiting for their service to begin. “Having a conversation in the moments before a client’s service allows her to warm up and open up to you, revealing her vulnerabilities and insecurities,” says Rebecca Beardsley, owner of ShineForth Salon in Oakland, CA, and author of Self-Care for Hairdressers. “There are hundreds of consultation questions you could ask, and as you move through your career, your questions will get better and better. But let’s not be fooled—even the most veteran stylists need to be reminded of how to offer a stellar consultation.” This is especially true for those longterm clients who have become so familiar they might get taken for granted. But no matter what questions you ask, says Beardsley, ensure you’re actually listening to the answers. “If your client feels heard, she will stay. If she doesn’t, she will leave. It’s that simple.” We reached out to industry leaders who reveal their favorite consultation questions and the reasons behind them.

Almost as important as asking the right questions during a consultation is actually listening to and understanding her responses.

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TALK

We chat with Sam Villa about #ArtistsSupportingArtists, his initiative to encourage a positive dialogue on social media.

am Villa, Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken, has long been known for his positive, encouraging nature and his belief that education is the key to a better life and understanding. Following his acceptance of the North American Hairstyling Award’s Lifetime Achievement Award, Villa announced his latest initiative, #ArtistsSupportingArtists. We sat down with Villa to discuss this movement that encourages everyone to be the best possible version of themselves, which includes being positive on social media.

Q Why did you start the #ArtistsSupportingArtists movement? Why do you think it is so important for the industry?

We started #ArtistsSupportingArtists to communicate in a more thoughtful, respectful way, promoting growth and evolution in the industry. The general climate of communication has shifted in the past 10 to 15 years. It seems the more brutal the attack, the more follow-up comments or “likes,” which in turn fuels more negative remarks. In that moment, it’s so easy to forget that the person on the receiving end is a living, breathing human with feelings. Artists tend to have large hearts and a level of insecurity around their work, so this type of communication is especially damaging. Overcoming that insecurity to share their art on a social media platform for the entire world to see is an act of courage deserving of respect and support, not mindless attacks.

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Sam Villa accepts his Lifetime Achievement Award at this year’s NAHAs.

September 2017

Q How does #ArtistsSupportingArtists help?

As an industry, we need to unify and promote stylists to be the best they can be. It’s a movement and commitment to being positive on social media, to build trust, confidence and success. We’re tagging positive communication with #ArtistsSupportingArtists and ask that we all communicate with the same level of respect digitally as we do in person.

Q How can stylists gauge whether their comments are being constructive instead of critical?

Stick to feedback that creates a conversation, provides opportunity for discovery and doesn’t carry an emotional punch. Offer suggestions like, “Have you ever tried a version where it’s thinner at the bottom?” or “If you want to blend that fade a little more, try…”

Q If you could send out one positive message to artists, what would it be?

Turn to education to develop your eyes and hands, and create your own voice and stick to it. Becoming successful takes a lot of hard work and time, so don’t be discouraged if you’re not growing as fast as you’d like. Stay focused, work hard, be consistent and the social recognition will come.

Q What is the best advice you have ever received?

To embrace social media and the power that it has to connect. We use it to bring more Sam Villa to more people every day!

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY SAM VILLA

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THREE ALOXXI ARTISTS COMBINE THEIR COLORING, CUTTING AND STYLING TALENTS TO CREATE A COLLECTION THAT SHOWCASES THE BEAUTY THAT ARISES WHEN ARTISTS ARE GIVEN THE FREEDOM TO CREATE.

WRITTEN BY Amy Dodds PHOTOGRAPHER Dorit Thies HAIR Cassi Young-Paxton, Sam LaBella, Peggy Wright MAKEUP Noel Nichols STYLIST Lisa Peckham

t’s hard to imagine we only began to understand what color actually is less than 350 years ago, when Sir Isaac Newton proved that light is made up of a spectrum of colors. Nevertheless, to this day color still remains captivating and magical. Capturing the charm, spectacle and transformative power of color was key to Aloxxi’s cover collection, aptly called Wonder. Bringing together three of their top artists—Cassi Young-Paxton, Sam LaBella and Peggy Wright—the shoot reveals what can be achieved when a hairdresser is allowed to explore the variety of colors in their toolbox. After all, unbridled creative vision is what creates magic. “The concept of including a sleek, textured and curly look was perfect for a theme like ‘wonder,’” says LaBella of the three styles created for each of the models. “This project shows how someone can have a completely different, colorful look depending on how they style their hair.” Young-Paxton agrees: “This diversity in style allowed the color to transform and reveal something unique each way.” The stylists believe that these looks are right in line with what clients will be clamoring for this autumn and winter. “There is so much color in fall fashion this year,” Young-Paxton says. “And the big, bold pops of color we embraced highlight the importance of this trend.” LaBella takes it one step further, pointing out that this season saw catwalks embracing different textures like never before. And what about men—will more embrace color? “Men love color, just ask them!” says LaBella. “Try starting with a small placement of a natural adjacent color like eggplant, or get inspired by that gorgeous denim blue Peggy created on (model) Michael.”

VISIT americansalon.com to get the complete formulas and step-by-steps. September 2017

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We pre-lightened Brittany with ULTRA Lightener and added our RRx Treatment. Next we pre-toned her with a formula of TONES 10V CLEAR, VIOLET and RED GEM. Then we diluted the mix with CLEAR for the mid-lengths and ends to create a natural depth at the base. This step is especially important with pastels—you want to start with a neutral canvas. Cassi had a great idea for opposing tones to create a pop of color ‘shooting’ along the parietal ridge. We foiled the shooting star section with a peachy pink formula using ULTRA HOT shades in Pink, Yellow, Violet and Clear. —Sam LaBella

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A lightning bolt placement just felt right for Michael. We used the QUICK LIFT Lightener to lift the hair ‘lightning’ fast. We wanted to give him a smoky, denim, masculine tone.

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September 2017

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‘‘Sometimes, a small

change can be so powerful. I try to switch it up often. ANDIAMO allows me to do quick changes in the salon. Once you remove the barrier of time, the options are endless.’’ —Peggy Wright

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‘‘As soon as Lucy came

to the model call, I just had this vision for a clean, round shape with a pop of a rainbow inside. Using our BLUE Lightener to pre-lighten the crescent shape then applying ANDIAMO for the last 10 minutes allowed me to get her ready for ULTRA HOT application in half the time. The rainbow color was meant to give a peekaboo effect no matter how she wears it.’’

—Cassi Young Paxton

September 2017

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WRITTEN BY Amy Dodds

Peacock Ray

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Layers of sapphire flicker with chartreuse and cerulean blue, like the iridescence of flared peacock feathers,â&#x20AC;? says Bruno Elorrioroz, Advanced Artistic Director, Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa, London.

taking

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AVEDA’S LATEST TREND COLLECTION TAKES INSPIRATION FROM THE FEATHERS OF THE TROPICS’ MOST VIBRANT AND COLORFUL RESIDENTS.

Renowned

for their brightly colored and elaborate plumage, birds of paradise encompass 42 species that live in the densely wooded areas of the rainforest. Yet despite their beauty, many species are threatened due to habitat loss and hunting. So it should come as no surprise that Aveda has gleaned inspiration from these colorful birds in their fall/ winter collection, Birds of Paradise. “No creature is quite as magical as a bird,” says Antoinette Beenders, Aveda Global Creative Director. “They inspire and they ground us, a reminder of our connection to the earth.” Taking cues from the iridescence, texture, movement and even shapes of these exotic

CREATIVE DIRECTION Antoinette Beenders, Aveda Global Creative Director STYLING Allen Ruiz, Aveda Global Artistic Director HAIR STYLING Tippi Shorter, Aveda Global Artistic Director Textured Hair; Bruno Elorrioroz, Advanced Artistic Director, Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa, London; Jo McKay, Aveda European Technical Hair Specialist MAKEUP Janell Geason, Aveda Global Artistic Director, Makeup

birds, the hair in the collection is smooth or tousled—or sometimes both—while color blends from one to another in a kaleidoscope of glossy hues and asymmetrical cuts that underscore the freedom that these birds represent. To further emphasize its commitment to the environment, Aveda is partnering with the National Audubon Society and Bird Life International on the #PlantsForBirds campaign to encourage all guests and the Aveda network to plant native flora to help protect bird habitats, as well as take simple steps like nixing plastic bags and turning off lights in high-rise buildings to reduce the number of fatal collisions. For a complete list of steps you can take, visit americansalon.com. “With hundreds of species on the brink of extinction, it felt timelier than ever to celebrate the color birds bring to the skies and the balance they bring to our ecosystem,” says Beenders. “I hope that this collection stirs people to see nature with new eyes and to fearlessly protect what makes it so beautiful and so powerful.”

Plum Glow

“We stretched her length and created airiness to bring her textured coils to life and almost take flight,” says Tippi Shorter, Aveda Global Artistic Director, Textured Hair.

Night Flock

“Razor-cutting twisted sections created a soft blunt look with incredible texture,” says Beenders. “Trendwise, we’re seeing a lot of texture. Infusing hair with modern, naturallooking movement lets you change your look without doing something permanent,” adds Allen Ruiz, Aveda Global Artistic Director, Hair Styling.

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Phoenix Crest

In this look, bold hair colors mimic the bright plumage of birds of paradise. But hair wasn’t the only beauty aspect inspired by birds. The wardrobe was selected to give the illusion of feathers but, in true Aveda fashion, none were actually used. Even the makeup was avian inspired. “Many birds have darker plumage on top, lighter underneath,” says Janell Geason, Aveda Global Artistic Director, Makeup. “ I mirrored this pattern—and the way arched wings glisten when they catch sun—in eye shadings, highlights and contouring.”

September 2017

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AUDACIOUS AUTHENTICITY

Silvestera’s East Village Blackstones Salon, complete with his signature taxidermy

Silvestera’s East Village Blackstone’s Salon, complete with his signature taxidermy.

Joey Silvestera consulting with a client

Academy Award−winner Helen Mirren Breakdancer, taxidermist, salon doing a seminar. I couldn’t believe I was an interview with these top haircutters. peered into the East Village Blackstones Mascolo protégé and the in They were like ‘Can you start next week?’ Salon many times before she walked in. Like go-to stylist for New York’s and I moved to New York City and trained everyone else, she was fascinated by the bear, coolest celebrity clientele, under Zak Mascolo and Thomas Osborn,” turkey, peacock and deer heads adorning the walls. Unwittingly she was drawn into the salon Joey Silvestera shares his says Silvestera. It was at Toni & Guy where he about education and management. by the story of its owner, Joey Silvestera. And serendipitous salon story. learned “Toni & Guy was very structured—you looked happily, she ended up in his chair. one way, you talked a certain way, everyone Silvestera’s rise in the hair world—being the trained the same way. It was smart, successful and corporate,” says sought-after stylist for designers like Alexander Wang, models such Silvestera. “I knew that the next step in my salon career had to as Helena Christensen and cool-girl celebrities like Chloë Sevigny— be something totally different.” And that meant smaller, quirkier actually started on the street corners of a rural Philadelphia suburb. and more individualized—from running Mudhoney, a Soho salon “I grew up outside of Philly in a predominantly black and Italian known for its rock ‘n’ roll vibe and clients such as the Ramones, neighborhood. We were totally into breakdancing and hip-hop to managing Beauty Parlor, a salon nestled inside ABC Carpet & culture,” says Silvestera. His friends couldn’t get their hair done the Home, an eclectic antiques store in Union Square. way they wanted, so Silvestera—who had two aunts who had hair After having these salon experiences under his belt, Silvestera salons—bought a pair of clippers and got to work. Hip-hop would fully understood what he wanted for his own salons—the be playing on a boombox with a broken down cardboard box as intimacy and personalization of a small salon, backed with the the stage, “and I would be right there with a long extension cord, business savvy of a large salon. He let his own story—from his cutting hair while we were dancing and having fun.” taxidermy, to his newfound love of vintage furniture—create Chalking up his first foray into hairdressing as a hobby, the visual experience for his first East Village Blackstones Silvestera went another direction after high school: taxidermy. Salon. “I wanted five chairs and an interesting interior that used “As a kid I fished and hunted, and I tinkered around with my taxidermy. I had this vision of a mid-18th century French taxidermy,” says Silvestera. After finishing taxidermy school, he ran a small taxidermy business for two years, but he missed the curiosity cabinet. We used hair history books instead of look social aspect of his “boombox barber” days. “I remember going to books or magazines. It took the typical New York salon culture a salon, and I sat down in the chair of a really talented hairdresser. and turned it on its head.” His vision paid off. Swarms of people I told him exactly how to cut my hair, giving him way too much would come just to look in the window. With the success of the direction. Finally, he just said, ‘Joey, why don’t you get serious first Blackstones, Silvestera recently opened Blackstones at the about hairdressing? Go to New York and train at Sassoon or Toni & Roxy Hotel in Tribeca, with the vision of an oversized Parisian Guy.’ That’s when the light bulb went off and I took his advice.” bathroom. Beyond his craftsmanship and unfaltering work ethic, After going to beauty school and getting his license, Silvestera Silvestera attributes his success to always being authentically went to New York City and interviewed at Toni & Guy. “The day himself—that breakdancing, taxidermy lovin’ kid from Philly who I went for the interview, Anthony and Guy Mascolo were at the fell in love with hair.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: THADDEUS ROMBAUER

REAL STORIES

WRITTEN BY Andrea Dawn Clark

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REAL STORIES

WRITTEN BY Michelle McKelvey

MEEVO 2.0

THE PROGRAM REBUILD ALLOWS SALONS TO MANAGE THEIR BUSINESSES WITH EASE IN A COMPLETELY USERFRIENDLY FASHION. This year’s The Millennium Experience (TME)— Millennium Systems International’s annual educational software conference in Fort Lauderdale, FL—featured three jam-packed days of presentations, main stage performances and classes on social media and brand-building. But what really rocked attnedees was when John Harms, CEO and Founder of Millennium Systems International, unveiled one of the company’s most exciting innovations to date: Meevo 2.0. A complete rebuild of the first generation product, Meevo 2.0 is a cloud-based software system that enables salons to manage and grow their businesses with ease. The upgraded version includes an intelligent, patent-pending “convo bar” that allows users to enter keywords that bring up anything from clients to a specific service provider’s appointment book across multiple days. With Meevo 2.0, managing a waitlist is a thing of the past. The new software automatically reaches out to pending clients via text message, allowing the them to confirm if they will take the appointment. And, Meevo 2.0 completes tasks much faster than before—as fast as a fraction of a second. Harms presented a live demo of the user-friendly app at TME and invited attendees on stage to give it a try. Because of the system’s intuitiveness, the platform requires little to no training. “Meevo 2.0 blew people away,” Harms says. “The energy in the room during the live presentation was palpable.” Taking note of client critiques, Harms focused the rebuild on their wants and needs. “Our clients wanted multiple credit card processor choices and the ability to fully function from a Mac or PC down to an iPhone or Android. We delivered,” Harms says. What’s next? Millennium Systems International’s development team is working on a migration system that will assist with the transition from Millennium. Meevo 2.0 will be available to most businesses by Q1 of 2018. For more information on Meevo 2.0 and next year’s TME, visit www.millenniumsi.com.

CEO and Founder John Harms presents the updated software platform at the annual TME conference.

The new Meevo 2.0 has the ability to fully function on all devices, from a Mac or PC to an iPhone or Android.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF MILLENNIUM SYSTEMS INTERNATIONAL

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REAL STORIES

DENISE SHEDRICK How did the brand we know as MOP begin? MOP stands for Modern Original Products. For 15 years, MOP has promoted a salon environment where stylists can express themselves without being judged, condemned or criticized. Our goal is to create a salon community where people feel safe and are able to become the best version of themselves. Our brand represents love, diversity and acceptance. For this reason, a portion of all proceeds is pledged to non-profit groups that are against bullying and hatred. We

BEAUTY

CONSCIENCE encourage all stylists to help us put an end to all bigotry, hatred and bullying. Why did you choose to align the brand with the Human Rights Campaign, Not in Our Town and the It Gets Better Project? MOP is about creating an environment where everyone can learn and grow from one another. As stylists, we often don’t recognize the talent standing next to us in the salon. Our mission is to close that gap and help stylists come together. At MOP, we’re constantly trying to create opportunities for stylists to share their knowledge. The #showyourmopplatform was created for stylists to showcase their Modern Original Perspective to hairdressing without worrying about being judged, condemned or criticized. It is an open forum for Modern Original Professionals to share their work. If a stylist wants to showcase their artistry, then simply tag #showyourmop on Instagram and it will be featured on our platform. Since we also believe that most people want to be part of something greater than themselves, we build strong communities to support our owners and stylists. We promote an environment

MOP celebrates “Original People” in their campaigns and actions.

MOP’s latest releases are Volume Whip and Firm Hold Clay.

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WITH A

of inclusivity vs. exclusivity and we give back to three anti-hate, anti-bullying organization that are aligned with our message. When an owner, stylist or salon client supports MOP, they are supporting their communities and the message of inclusivity. Tell us about the people featured in your blog. Our Modern Original People profiles are filled with interesting people who are passionate and bring a unique perspective to their work and lives. They’re not all stylists, but all are creative individuals who we hope inspire our MOP Community. If you are or know a Modern Original Person that would like to be featured, let us know on our Instagram (@mop_hair_products) or Facebook (@mophairproducts) pages. What about MOP products sets them apart? MOP products are naturally infused with fruits vegetables and herbs, they offer unisex fragrances that are great for guys and girls. It’s a compact brand that sits easily on the salon shelf, with price points that the whole family can afford. We use the cleanest formulas possible but are focused on performance. MOP is currently created with five pillars: Revitalizing, Moisturizing, Volumizing, Sensitive and Sulfate-Free. Next year will bring an additional category, which will be announced soon. What’s next for the brand? We have an aggressive new product development schedule for 2018. The new items are being designed to give stylists additional tools they need to create any Modern Original Look. Additionally, you will begin to see enhancements to our website and #showyourmop platform with business and inspirational content to help stylists build strong businesses and enhance their careers.

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF MOP MODERN ORIGINAL PRODUCTS

MOP has been promoting the beauty of individuality for the past 15 years. We talk to Denise Shedrick, Vice President of Sales and New Product Development, about the brand’s beginnings, its values and the future.

WRITTEN BY Linda Kossoff

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After each screening, the directors and DeJoria hosted a Q&A where they asked viewers what the movie meant to them. “Your good fortune is the world’s good fortune,” one attendee answered during the Los Angeles premiere.

DO GOOD Good Fortune, which has received widespread positive reviews and led to DeJoria being named Variety’s Philanthropist of the Year, is now available for download on iTunes, YouTube and Amazon.

The directors of Good Fortune, Joshua Tickell (far right) and Rebecca Harrell Tickell (far left), flank John Paul DeJoria and actress Francis Fisher on the red carpet in Los Angeles.

Naturally, Patrón-spiked drinks made their rounds at both premieres.

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September 2017

There are few people in the hair industry, let alone any other industry, who have truly achieved worldwide recognition. One of those people is Vidal Sassoon. The other, arguably, is John Paul DeJoria, Co-founder of John Paul Mitchell Systems and the top-shelf tequila Patrón Spirits Company. Recently in New York and Los Angeles, hundreds attended the red carpet premieres of Good Fortune, a new documentary narrated by friend Dan Ackroyd that chronicles DeJoria’s life and philanthropy. Despite DeJoria’s current wealth—Forbes estimates his net worth at $3.1 billion—his upbringing was anything but plush. Good Fortune chronicles the loss and adversity DeJoria endured in his early years, which included foster care, two bouts of homelessness and the death of his brother. Yet despite the emotional and financial hardship, his lifelong devotion to giving back has rewarded him tenfold. The film opens with a clip from a 2013 episode of Shark Tank, on which DeJoria is a guest “shark.” The other sharks are incredulous that the contestant, a farmer from Florida, isn’t charging more for his invention to reduce agricultural water consumption. The bemused farmer can’t understand why he’d charge more when he doesn’t need it, and DeJoria agrees, hopping in to offer all the support the farmer needs to get his company off the ground. This is but one act of the “conscious capitalism” that DeJoria practices, which puts people before profit. He has signed the “Giving Pledge,” alongside fellow billionaires like Bill Gates and Warren Buffett, to give 50 percent of his earnings to charity, is involved in more than 160 charities and actively helps to improve the planet as well as people’s lives. “Everyone has a definition of success,” DeJoria says in the film. “It’s not where you are today and how much money you have, or what kind of a big position you have. Success is: Are you the best at what you do? And, success unshared is failure.” Speaking of failure, the film doesn’t gloss over some of the mistakes DeJoria made along the way. But the film makes it apparent that his positive attitude, alongside his driven work ethic, has helped him get to where he is today. “In the end, everything will be OK,” DeJoria says in the film. “And, if it’s not OK, it’s not the end.” You can check out the documentary now on iTunes, YouTube and Amazon.

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

JOHN PAUL DEJORIA’S LIFE AND FOCUS ON PHILANTHROPY IS CHRONICLED IN THE BIG SCREEN DOCUMENTARY, GOOD FORTUNE.

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REAL STORIES DENMAN SUPPORTS MALAWI

Denman’s Julie Huddleston and Karen Batley

The children of the Tilianu Orphanage

The Fabio Sementilli Professional Mentorship Scholarship honors Sementilli’s 30-year career and educational contributions.

Beauty Changes Lives Foundation Announces Fabio Sementilli Scholarship The Beauty Changes Lives Foundation is commemorating the legacy of Coty Professional Beauty Vice President of Education Fabio Sementilli with a scholarship honoring his contributions to the industry. The Fabio Sementilli Professional Mentorship Scholarship helps provide learning opportunities for new hairstylists, mid-career professionals and seasoned industry veterans. “As a mentor, educator and leader, Fabio changed lives for thousands of hairstylists around the globe,” says Lynelle Lynch, president of the Beauty Changes Lives Foundation. “While the industry mourns the loss of an inspiring visionary, we are honored that his generosity lives on through this scholarship.” Beginning in Spring 2018, licensed professionals may apply for advanced education programming at top-rated academies throughout the U.S. Course offerings will span the spectrum and will be available for all newcomers and seasoned professionals. Details on the inaugural class offerings will be available October 2017.—M.M.

PHILIP KINGSLEY LAUNCHES CHARITY LEGACY In rememberance of the late, world-renowned trichologist Philip Kingsley, a charity collaboration was launched in June to raise funds for The Royal Marsden Cancer Charity, a pioneer of new cancer treatments. The Royal Marsden Cancer Charity was one of the causes closest to Kingsley’s heart because of his wife’s battle with breast cancer. His No Scent, No Colour product line was one of the first in the world specifically developed to suit the needs of people undergoing chemotherapy and radiotherapy. To honor Kingsley’s birthday, throughout the month of June, his website donated two dollars for every purchase made online, and The Philip Kingsley clinics in London and New York donated five dollars from each service and two dollars for every product purchased. Kingsley’s passion for hair and scalp care will live on through his clinics, his award-winning products and his legacy charity partnerships—M.M.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF DENMAN

Denman has supported volunteer projects in Malawi for over ten years, and this fall, two of the brand’s own will be rolling up their sleeves to make it a true hands-on giving experience. Export Sales Executive, Julie Huddleston, and USA Marketing Executive, Karen Batley will spend two weeks to build a vocational training center at Tilinanu Orphanage located in the Malawian capital of Lilongwe. “The center will provide facilities for the local community and the orphanage to enable various courses like computer training, tailoring and joinery to take place, “says Batley. “This will be a vital infrastructure for the children to learn life-long skills that will help them for years to come.” This project is funded in part by the Irish government with the remaining budget fundraised by volunteers through various philanthropic events. A Denman Team GoFundMe has been created for additional donations at www.gofundme.com/ karenandjulie—M.S.

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INOAR Inocência Manoel, INOAR Founder, has never been one to let obstacles stand in her way. When foreign hair products were too expensive in her native Brazil, she developed her own treatments, solving a personal beauty dilemma while also offering a reasonably priced solution to her clients. When she tired of advertisements leaving out black, LGBT, mature and disabled women, Manoel sponsored a panel to talk about the lack of diversity. At her very core, Manoel knows how to get things done and fight for what she knows is right. Today, Manoel is taking INOAR to new heights, expanding their lines to reach all hair concerns, pushing industry boundaries and helping communities with humanitarian initiatives. We spoke with Manoel to fully understand her unfaltering passion.

Inocência Manoel with her son and INOAR CEO Alexandre Nascimento at Beauty Fair Brasil

Since INOAR is based in Brazil, how does its Brazilian legacy benefit the company? A Brazil, a country with the greatest variety of hairs in the world, has become an enormous laboratory for hair studies and experiences, with worldwide dissemination. Along with its diversity, Brazil is also recognized for its natural resources. As a company that’s always been aware of our Brazilian roots, we make a point of preserving our natural resources and embracing the animals and environment around us. We support associations that rescue animals from the streets, and we even keep dog mascots in our Brazil office. The presence of these animals is extremely beneficial to employees. Our dogs run loose through the office, and employees always find time for a cuddle. We talk, laugh and play with these animals, and it takes the stress away from the environment. At INOAR we value and highlight this connection between our brand and nature. It reflects our deep relationship with Brazil. One of INOAR’s main concepts is “to keep the hair in its healthiest state.” Why is this concept so important to the company? A For us, being a cosmetic leader means more than just being present throughout the world. We always look for respect and recognition for doing a great job, for both our consumers and employees. It’s one of the main differences at INOAR, having a human-focused management style, respecting individuals as people. We completely understand that the products we sell are “little experiences” people carry with them when they take our products home. Therefore, we are always conscious that it is critical to keep our consumers’ hair healthy, with better and more affordable products. INOAR is known for its philanthropy and commitment to community. Are there any new humanitarian projects that you’d like to share with us? A It has always been my intent to develop the brand without forgetting the human side. For this reason, I conceived the Solidarity in Beauty social project. This project will cross the oceans, doing good for others. Currently in Brazil, Solidarity in Beauty offers vocational courses, distributes products, develops skills and offers work opportunities and guaranteed income for underprivileged communities. In addition, INOAR intently tries to reflect our amazing Brazilian culture of diversity. As such, we have featured models with Down Syndrome and Paralympic athletes in our advertising campaigns. And, I annually sponsor a congress to talk about the imagery within the beauty market. This year we organized a very successful panel to discuss the inclusion of more black, LGBT, and mature women in advertisements. The world is made of diverse people, and they all need to be represented.

INOAR is extremely proud to include Paralympic athletes in their advertising.

Manoel with graduates from her Solidarity in Beauty project

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PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTSEY OF INOAR

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800.341.9999

WWW.OPI.COM

OLIVIA GARDEN

800.922.2301

WWW.OLIVIAGARDEN.COM

ORIBE HAIR CARE

888.ORIBE.99

WWW.ORIBE.COM

PANASONIC CORPORATION

PLEASE USE WEBSITE

WWW.PANASONICPROTRIMMERS.COM

PIBBS INDUSTRIES

800.551.5020

WWW.PIBBS.COM

143

PREMIERE BEAUTY CLASSIC

800.335.7469

WWW.BEAUTYCLASSICSHOW.BIZ/

127

PREMIERE BIRMINGHAM - PREMIERE SHOW GROUP

800.335.7469

WWW.PREMIEREBIRMINGHAMSHOW.BIZ

147

PRODUCT CLUB

800.803.3588

WWW.PRODUCTCLUB.COM

115

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

800.468.2264

WWW.PROBEAUTY.ORG

149, 151

PUREOLOGY

800.331.1502

WWW.PUREOLOGY.COM

2-3

REDKEN 5TH AVENUE NYC

800.542.7256

WWW.REDKEN.COM

CV2-1

REPÊCHAGE

800.248.SKIN

WWW.REPECHAGE.COM

26-27

RUSK

800.USE.RUSK

WWW.RUSK1.COM

18-19

SCRUPLES

800.457.0016

WWW.SCRUPLESHAIRCARE.COM

SEXY HAIR

800.848.3383

WWW.SEXYHAIR.COM

SKECHERS

800.746.3411

WWW.SKECHERS.COM

43, 59

SOLA SALON STUDIOS

303.377.7652

WWW.SOLASALONS.COM

SOMA HAIR TECHNOLOGY

815.625.6525

WWW.MYSOMAHAIR.COM

SURFACE HAIR

866.944.7863

WWW.SURFACEHAIR.COM

123

TIGI LINEA, INC.

800.259.8596

WWW.TIGIHAIRCARE.COM

CV4

TRUSS

844.TRUSS11

WWW.TRUSSPROFESSIONAL.COM

24-25

TURBO POWER, INC.

888.715.6100

WWW.TURBOPOWERINC.COM

129

UNITE

888.95.UNITE

WWW.UNITEHAIR.COM

20-21

WAHL CLIPPER

815.625.6525

WWW.WAHLPRO.COM

125

WELLA

800.935.5237

WWW.WELLAUSA.COM

American Salon (ISSN 0741-5737) is published monthly (12 issues) by Questex LLC, 757 Third Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10017. Subscription rates $44.00, 1-year, $66.00, 2-year in the United States & Possessions; $57.00, 1-year $85.00, 2-year in Canada and Mexico; all other countries $66.00, 1-year, $99.00, 2-year. For air-expedited service, include an additional $75 per order annually. Single copies (prepaid only): $8.00 in the United States; $10.00 in Canada and Mexico: all other countries $12.00. Include $6.50 per order plus $2 per additional copy for U.S. postage and handling. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY 10199 and additional mailing offices. Post Master: Send address changes to American Salon PO Box 1267, Skokie, IL 60076-8267. Canadian G.S.T. number: 840 033 278 RT 0001. Publications Mail Agreement Number 40017597. Printed in the U.S.A. Copyright 2017 by Questex LLC, All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including by photocopy, recording or information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Questex LLC for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, phone: 978/750-8400, fax: 978/750-4470; call for copying beyond that permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law. For those not registered with the CCC, send permission requests to Wright’s Media 877/652-5295. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, art, and other material will not be returned. Publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, art, and other materials. To order reprints contact Wright’s Media 877/652-5295.

154 americansalon.com

September 2017

THE RIGHT COMB makes all the difference; it’s your connection to the hair, and an extension of your hand. Discerning hairdressers understand this and take pride in their tools. At HbPro we value this, and created this comb for you.

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WORD

PLAY

Linh Phan, (@bescene) b3 Brazilian Bond Builder Sponsored Artist, plays word association with Executive Editor Andrea Dawn Clark.

still don’t have one. It’s the strangest thing, what’s holding me up?

The ’90s

People can get Instagram success really fast—and sometimes become super cocky, thinking they’re famous. But be careful, as fast as that fame came, it can go just as quickly.

Saved by the Bell. I had a huge crush on Kelly.

Green light

Is it fashion? Is it hair color? I always think of both.

Nine to five Doesn’t exist in the hair world.

The Great Gatsby

Brunette I’m a blonde guy. So, every time I see a brunette, I just want to turn her blonde.

156 americansalon.com

Tattoo I’m 33 years old and I’ve always wanted one, but

September 2017

Denim Out of the blue How I got into the hair industry. I was offered a job to bartend at the grand

opening of a hair salon. They really liked my image and asked me if I’d like to work there during the day. I took the job as a shampoo boy, and nine years later, it turned into this. I didn’t find my passion. It found me.

Baby I’m expecting a baby in December—and I’m terrified.

PHOTOGRAPHY: MARK ENRIQUEZ

Easy come, easy go

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Your Hair. Your Way.