CONTENTS
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
R E G U L AR S 10
F E AT U R E S 22
UPFRONT
Wayfinding in Japan’s capital
18
Shenzhen keeps on growing
INBOX
Your letters and posts from our online forum
PUSHING BOUNDARIES
A P P R E C I AT I N G ANGKOR
34 T H E A M E R I C A N DREAM
46 4 H O U R S I N . . . NEW ORLEANS
Exploring Siem Reap and its world-famous temple complexes
Boeing’s game-changing Dreamliner
34
Exploring the atmospheric French Quarter 64
40
N AV I G AT I N G TO K YO
Travel industry news worldwide
28
ON THE C OVER
OPINION
Derek Picot, Jeff Mills
46
48
H E A LT H H A C K S
Seeking sanctuary in Asia’s city spas 54
CHARITY AUCTION
Online auction prizes revealed
THE REPORT
TRIED & TESTED HOTELS 70
3
60 Gadgets for travelling professionals
68 T R I E D & T E S T E D FLIGHTS
British Airways B747-400 Club World; Singapore Airlines B777-200 business; Thai Smile A320 economy
CR E ATIVE TECH
69
R E S TAU R A N T S Fine dining in Abu Dhabi
Mandarin Oriental Taipei; Marina Bay Sands, Singapore 72 T R I E D & T E S T E D HEADPHONES
Mixcder MS301; Denon AH-C820
56
73
73 T R I E D & T E S T E D HONG KONG R E S TA U R A N T S
74
Terroir Parisien; Kishoku
From HKIA to the city by train, bus or taxi
SMART TRAVELLER
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
WELCOME
I
4
ILLUSTRATION: BENJAMIN SOUTHAN
’m taking New Year Resolutions on the road with me this year. Recent years have seen the global mindset shift to the importance of health and wellness, with many of us jumping on the bandwagon to trade Saturday night takeaways for Saturday morning bootcamps or switching after-work drinks for a kale smoothie at lunch. But on work trips, good intentions tend to fly out the window… This year there’s no excuse, as even more accommodation providers are focusing their offerings to help travellers stick to their goals. So in January, I’ll be checking out the launch of “Pullman Fit” with early morning yoga sessions on the rooftop garden at Park Lane Pullman Hotel, followed by a new “active breakfast”. In February, I’ll be re-energising my mind and body with a digital detox at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong’s new Digital Wellness Escape. Elsewhere, new initiatives see Westin Hotels & Resorts adding TRX suspension training to fitness studios worldwide; Swissotel putting the finishing touches on a dedicated “Vitality Room” featuring exercise equipment, air-purification and circadian light features; and when it opens this year, the Rosewood Hong Kong introducing the new Asaya wellness concept, combining nutrition, health and fitness. To incentivise a more health-conscious approach to travel, on page 48 we look at the latest urban spa treatments around the region. Not only will they help you bounce back from Christmas excesses, but we highlight takeaways from these treatments to adopt, introducing new habits into your daily life for long-lasting health benefits. Here’s to kick-starting 2018. Happy New Year!
Tamsin Cocks Editor
THIS ISSUE’S PICKS
AMAZING ANGKOR
DREAMLINER
FIND YOUR WAY
BAG A BARGAIN
Once a 48-hour stop to take in the breathtaking temples at Angkor, Siem Reap is now enticing travellers to stay longer, with luxury accommodation and varied entertainment options. (Page 40)
With launch customer Singapore Airlines receiving the first B787-10 this year, we take a look at the aircraft that has changed the face of aviation through its cabin upgrades and operational ability. (Page 34)
You can now zip around Tokyo like a pro thanks to a range of service upgrades, new technology and even robot assistance directly aimed at making the city more navigable for foreign visitors. (Page 22)
Your last chance to win amazing prizes in the final instalment of our annual Charity Auction, while helping to raise funds for the Chi Heng Foundation’s mission to support AIDS-impacted children. (Page 54)
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
businesstraveller.com
CONTRIBUTORS
ROB GOSS
C AT H A R I N E N I C O L
Rob Goss is a British writer living in Tokyo. His most recent books include Japan Traveler’s Companion and Japanese Inns and Hot Springs. He has also written for National Geographic Traveler, Time, The Economist’s 1843, and other publications around the world. When he’s not in Tokyo, you might find him traipsing around the Japanese countryside, island hopping in the Seto Inland Sea or exploring the old alleyways of Kyoto – but in this issue, he shares his expert tips for getting around the Japanese capital; page 22
Catharine Nicol is a former editor of AsiaSpa magazine and continues to write about the growing wellness industry. Mesmerised by Asia’s healing traditions, she has developed a huge respect for the benefits of alternative healing therapies. In this issue, she explores spas offering a range of cleansing and detox treatments to kick off the New Year with habits to continue long after the treatment has finished; page 48
STEVE DINNEEN
DEREK PICOT
Steve Dinneen is a London-based lifestyle journalist who has written about gadgets for more than a decade. Constantly on the hunt for the latest tech trends, in this issue he suggests a range of must-have devices for creative types to help release your artistic talent, from music to photography; page 60
Veteran hotelier Derek Picot has worked in senior positions on five continents, most recently as regional vice president for Jumeirah’s hotels and resorts in Europe. He now consults for hotel owners and luxury developers, advising on design and trends in hospitality. In this issue he muses over the prices and practices of laundry services in hotels; page 64
6
ILLUSTRATIONS: BENJAMIN SOUTHAN
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
businesstraveller.com
BUSINE S S TR AVELLER PAR T NER SHIP
The Fullerton Heritage A world-class destination offering luxury hotel accommodation, dynamic dining and lifestyle entertainment choices
A
waterfront development whose architecture combines both the historical and contemporary, The Fullerton Heritage comprises a myriad of dining, hospitality and lifestyle establishments across The Fullerton Hotel Singapore, The Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore, The Fullerton Waterboat House, One Fullerton, The Fullerton Pavilion, Clifford Pier and Customs House. Together with the two hotels’ nine dining destinations, an array of 29 restaurants, bars and cafés in the precinct make it a vibrant focal point of lifestyle offerings for both hotel and city guests to enjoy. The precinct is strategically positioned in the heart of Singapore’s Central Business District, minutes from the city’s iconic cultural landmarks and close to the main shopping belts of Suntec City and Orchard Road. It is also well linked to various transportation hubs, with Changi International Airport less than half an hour away and Raffles Place MRT Station within a few minutes’ walk. A graceful and modern two-storey waterfront development, One Fullerton features an exciting tenant mix with some of Singapore’s best restaurants, bars and entertainment concepts, from chic cafés to fine-dining alfresco destinations serving international cuisines. Located on a unique urban promenade, the destination is also directly adjacent to the historic Merlion Park that attracts over one million visitors every year. For intimate fine dining, The Fullerton Waterboat House houses the restaurant
businesstraveller.com
1919, while Clifford Pier – a 1933 historic landmark that was once Singapore’s first port of call for immigrants – offers The Fullerton Bay Hotel’s flagship restaurant, The Clifford Pier. Customs House, a stunning celebration of Singapore’s past, has been transformed into a dining and entertainment complex featuring leading establishments such as Kinki, Super Loco and Sabai Fine Thai on the Bay. Perched at the apex of the 23-metre-high tower of Customs House is The Lookout – a dining destination that boasts 360-degree views of the city skyline and Marina Bay. For captivating views of the bay, The Fullerton Pavilion is where guests can indulge in Italian cuisine at Monti. Of the historic buildings along the precinct, The Fullerton Hotel is perhaps the most iconic. Transformed from a 1928 neoclassical General Post Office, the luxury hotel was gazetted as Singapore’s 71st National Monument in 2015. Carefully designed to provide travellers with a sanctuary to retreat and rejuvenate, each of the hotel’s 400 rooms and suites overlooks the sunlit lobby atrium, scenic Singapore River or Marina Bay. With its unique blend of rich heritage and contemporary style, it is consistently recognised as one of the best hotels in the world. Moreover, within the hallowed hallways of this iconic building is The Fullerton Spa, an urban oasis featuring signature therapies that deliver visible results. Located on the mezzanine level of The Fullerton Hotel, The Fullerton Spa creates
a passage to allow you to escape, renew and relax. Across the road, The Fullerton Bay Hotel is the latest addition to the precinct. Built on the waters of Marina Bay, the award-winning hotel makes a striking impression with breathtaking architecture, glamorous interiors and legendary service. Presenting 100 rooms and suites replete with private balconies and double-glazed floor-to-ceiling windows, guests are treated to stunning vistas of Singapore’s cosmopolitan skyline. In 2018, The Fullerton Hotel Singapore celebrates the 90th anniversary of the Fullerton Building in which it is sited, with a repertoire of events, encapsulating the iconic building’s rich heritage and the brand’s passion for luxury hospitality and lifestyle. A highlight of the celebrations is the debut of Fullerton Concours d’Elegance – Southeast Asia’s first-ever prestigious automotive event. A line-up of over 90 vintage, classic and super cars will take centre stage, alongside charity car drives, gourmet food offerings, family carnival, music performances and more. Guests and the public are invited to join in the celebrations and be part of history in the making.
1 Fullerton Rd, Singapore 049213; tel: +65 6557 2590; www.thefullertonheritage.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
7
Managing director Julian Gregory Editorial director Tom Otley Director Peggy Teo EDITORIAL Editor Tamsin Cocks Consulting editor Jeremy Tredinnick Online editor Craig Bright Staff writer Valerian Ho Art director Loretta Lam Designer Julia Yau Contributors Steve Dinneen, Rob Goss, Jeff Mills, Catharine Nicol, Derek Picot, Jenny Southan, Samantha Wood ADVERTISING General manager sales Juliet Lim Regional sales directors Gracy Siu, Iris Yeung, Jackie Ho, Queenie Kwong Circulation manager Allan Chan Senior marketing executive Cherrie Wong ADMINISTRATION Admin & production manager Renee Chiu 8
CONTACT Editorial tel +852 2594 9393 Email editorial@businesstravellerasia.com facebook.com/businesstraveller.asia Advertising tel +852 2594 9300 Email advertising@businesstravellerasia.com SUBSCRIPTIONS Tel +852 2594 9318 Email enquiry@businesstravellerasia.com Website businesstraveller.com
Business Traveller Asia-Pacific is published 10 times a year at the address at right. The magazine is entirely independent of all commercial interests within the travel industry. All rights reserved in respect of all articles, illustrations, photography, etc, published in Business Traveller Asia-Pacific anywhere in the world. Reproductions or imitations are expressly forbidden without the permission of the publishers. Unsolicited contributions will not be accepted for publication and Business Traveller Asia-Pacific accepts no responsibility for loss of or damage to them. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publishers, who cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
In the US, Business Traveler is published at 11 Ryerson Place, 201 Pompton Plains, New Jersey 07444, tel 1 973 839 6200, fax 1 973 839 4390. In Germany, Business Traveller is published at Schulstrasse 34, 80634 Munich, tel 49 891 3014 3215, fax 49 891 3014 3211. In Poland, Business Traveller is published at 16 Tamka Str, apt 4, 00-349 Warsaw, tel 48 22 455 38 14. In Denmark, Business Traveller is published at Mariendalsvej 28, 2000 Frederiksberg, tel 45 3311 4413, fax 45 3311 4414. In Hungary, Business Traveller is published at 1074 Budapest, Munkas utca 9, tel 36 1266 5853. In the Middle East, Business Traveller Middle East is published jointly by Motivate Publishing, PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE, tel 9714 282 4060, and Perry Publications. In Africa, Business Traveller Africa is published
by Future Publishing (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 3355, Rivonia 2128, South Africa, tel 27 11 803 2040. In Russia, Business Traveller is published at Ul. M. Raskovoy, 34-14, 127005 Moscow, tel 7 495 662 44 39. In India, Business Traveller is published at 20 Vaswani Mansion, 120 Dinshaw Vachna Road, Churchgate, Mumbai 400020, tel 91 22 2281 5538. In the Netherlands, Business Traveller is published at Arendstraat 19, 1,223 RE Hilversum, tel 31 35 672 8853. © 2018 Panacea Publishing International ISSN 0255-7312
Panacea Publishing Asia Ltd Regional Head Office: Suite 405, Chinachem Exchange Square, 1 Hoi Wan Street, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong tel +852 2594 9300 fax +852 25196846 businesstraveller.com Panacea Asia Pte Ltd Singapore Office: Spaces City Hall, 410 North Bridge Road, Singapore 188726 tel +65 6407 7300 fax +65 6407 7251
Printing by: Apex Print Ltd, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, N.T., Hong Kong businesstraveller.com
businesstraveller.com
BUSINE S S TR AVELLER PAR T NER SHIP
The Olympian Hong Kong Personalised service that exceeds expectation and luxurious accommodation you won’t want to leave
I
t begins with a Rolls Royce limousine, whisking you from the airport in total comfort to our exclusive West Kowloon oasis. You arrive in an extravagant lobby, defined by a cascading crystal chandelier, where you’ll enjoy a seamless, personalised check-in with our Guest Relations Ambassador. Dedicated to meeting your every whim, our attention to detail is the hallmark of our service, from preparing your morning cappuccino exactly how you like it to crafting unique itineraries that meet your particular desires. Clever interior design adds to the luxurious sense of space in our generously sized rooms, with soaring ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a lush, green waterfront. All rooms offer premium facilities from elegant walk-in showers to smart LED TVs. You’ll notice the thoughtful details that blend traditional Chinese elements with modern Western design: peony-inspired artwork, artistic representations of “double happiness� and historical images of the neighbourhood adorn the walls. Elsewhere in the hotel, you can burn off steam in our 24-hour fitness centre or grab a bite to eat in our private lounge. When it comes to exploring for business or pleasure, don’t forget to take the complimentary Handy phone placed
businesstraveller.com
in your room: this nifty mobile will give you instant access to internet, free local and international calls, plus useful local guides. And with the Olympic MTR station within walking distance, guests can reach Hong Kong's hotspots in no time. Whatever you need, The Olympian Hong Kong is dedicated to ensuring guests have a superlative stay. In just a year since opening, our exclusive accommodation and warm, personal service has been recognised with a flurry of awards. Among these accolades are: Çš ' " )/ 030-4 */ ' *! /# - Ç’ Hong Kong, Asia & Australasia Awards 2017, Luxury Travel Guide Çš "$*) ' $)) -Ć˝ 030-4 2 */ ' Çœ ./ Asia), 2017 World Luxury Hotel Awards Çš 3 '' ) 2 - !*- '$ )/ -1$ Ćź Ć?Ć›ĆœĆ˘ '* ' 3 '' ) 2 - . Çš ./ 030-4 *0/$,0 */ ' Ç’ *2'**)Ćź Ć?Ć›ĆœĆ˘ '* ' 3 '' ) 2 - .
CELEBRATION ROOM PACKAGE Customise your experience with a choice of activities designed to make your stay special. ALL GUESTS WILL ENJOY: Çš ) Ç’2 4 $-+*-/ /- ).! - 4 *''. *4 (value HK$1,500) Çš *((* /$*) $) /# '4(+$ ) 0$/ Ćź 2$/# &$)" *- /2$) . Çš $'4 - &! ./ !*- /2* $) *0- .$ ) 4 Lounge, choose from American, Chinese or Continental style Çš $'*-Ç’( '0) # *- $)) - 3 '0.$1 '4 +- + - 4 *0- # ! Çœ1 '0 ɗƣƛƛÇ? PLUS, A CHOICE OF ACTIVITIES TO SUIT Çš $/) .. '*1 -. ) )%*4 *) Ç’#*0- personal training session for two with professionals from Fitness Compass Çš 0'/0- 10'/0- . ) $) 0'" $) "0$ evening walk around Yau Ma Tei and Jordan, soaking up the exotic sights, .*0) . ) .( ''.Ćź ' -)$)" *0/ /# area’s history, dining on local cuisines and even having your fortune told under $ *)$ )4 ) /- .Ćť The 5-day/4-night Celebration Room Package is priced at HK$12,980 (inclusive of 10 per cent service) and is valid until December 20, 2018.
The Olympian Hong Kong, 18 Hoi Fai Road, West Kowloon, Hong Kong; tel: +852 3199 8888; www.theolympianhotel.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
9
UPFRONT
BACK TO THE FUTURE The age of commercial supersonic air travel may return in the next decade.
Japan Airlines ( JAL) recently invested US$10 million in Boom Supersonic with the goal of developing a new commercial aircraft capable of flying at speeds of up to Mach 2.2. According to JAL, the aircraft could “cut flight times in half ” and is currently expected to enter service sometime in the mid-2020s. Details of the aircraft are slim at present, but it is expected to have between 45 and 55 business class seats. The investment is something of a gamble for JAL – supersonic commercial f light was last a reality in 2003, when British Airways retired its Concorde jet because it had proven financially unviable.
10
THREE NEW WATERING HOLES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
SAFFRON SKY GARDEN Perched on the 52nd floor of the Banyan Tree Bangkok is a brand new alfresco garden lounge. The tranquil setting offers stunning views over the city for after-work drinks or an intimate dinner. Open 5pm-1am daily. banyantree.com
TIGER DEN Enjoy a last sip of Singapore’s famous beer brand at the new dedicated outlet in Changi Airport’s Terminal 4. Patrons can also indulge in hawker-style dishes while enjoying the hand-painted street-art interior. changiairportgroup.com
businesstraveller.com
UPFRONT
SMART ROOMS
LOUNGING AROUND QANTAS Heathrow Airport’s Terminal 3 is now home to a new Qantas lounge, modelled on the same design as the airline’s Hong Kong, Singapore and Brisbane facilities. While the lounge is split over two levels – the bar is on the upper level – there aren’t separate areas for first and business class passengers.
AIR NEW ZE AL AND THE NEXT TIME you have a “Eureka!” moment in the shower, you may be able to jot it down there and then. Marriott is currently testing a touchscreen shower door at the Irvine Marriott in California, which enables users to trace their ideas in the build-up of condensation and digitally record their notes by sending them to their email address for future use. The hotel group has also been developing a new “smart room” that uses IoT (Internet of Things) technology to enable guests to speak to a virtual assistant to set alarms, play yoga routines in their mirror, or start their shower at the desired temperature. Marriott isn’t alone in the quest for future tech – Hilton has also unveiled its new “Connected Room” concept that enables users to control their in-room services through their own mobile devices.
The Kiwi carrier opened its first lounge in Western Australia in December. The Perth Airport lounge, located on the second floor by Gate 52A, follows the design of the airline’s other facilities in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, and is divided into four sections: a café, business zone, lounge zone and quiet zone.
CHINA E ASTERN The new China Eastern V01 Lounge in T1 of Shanghai Hongqiao International Airport is located on Level 4 in the departure hall’s VIP lounge area. It has a relaxing area, food and drink counter, bar, business centre, shower room, free wifi and many USB ports. It also highlights China Eastern’s signature noodles and teppanyaki, prepared at the live cooking station.
CATHAY PACIFIC
PLEASE DON’T TELL Iconic “secret” New York Bar PDT has opened up its first permanent international outpost in Hong Kong’s Landmark Mandarin Oriental. Guests reach the intimate venue through an entrance disguised as a phone booth to enjoy creative cocktails and bar snacks. mandarinoriental.com/landmark
businesstraveller.com
Hong Kong’s flag carrier was the first to move into Singapore Changi Airport’s new Terminal 4 and its lounge there is modelled on its The Pier offering in Hong Kong. Simply dubbed the “Cathay Pacific Lounge”, the space is one of the airline’s largest outside of Hong Kong and features favourite touches such as the Noodle Bar, serving dandan noodles and Singapore laksa. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
11
UPFRONT
O-POSITIVE SPA E XPERIENCE MATCH YOUR blood type to your treatment with Immunetra Spa Treatments at Bangkok’s Athénée Spa. The unique French-Siam approach is grounded in the principle that blood type is vital to determining individual physiological and personality characteristics. Blood type O is the Hunter; A is the Cultivator; and B is the Nomad. Therapists use this blood coding to employ specific herbs, spices, oils and even finely ground gemstones in customising a range of treatments from skin purification to massage. theatheneehotel.com
EMIRATES UNVEILS NEW CABINS FOR B777 FLEET
12
EMIRATES has unveiled its new B777 interiors. First class has fully enclosed private suites in a 1-1-1 layout and a design “inspired by Mercedes-Benz”. The new business class is in a 2-3-2 configuration – unpopular because the passenger seated in the middle is required to climb over the aisle passenger when the seats are fully reclined. Economy is ten-across, in a 3-4-3 configuration, but all cabins have outstanding in-flight entertainment with more than 2,500 channels. emirates.com
4 - % . 1 3 4 - 3$ ( 1/.13 ".#$2 ! 2 ! 9 % % # M 2 #
. . 4 9 4
. ! M 9 * 0 5 3 ( 3 # ( $
! . # . ' $ 5 ( ! 4 3 + 1 ' % 4 * 4 % 1 ( $ / ' . $ M ( M M 8 . 1 1
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
9 $ 4 . # ( 1 "
( 1 / ! + 1 M $ 2 2 $ * 1 ( ( 7 # ( - 3 ! 4 $ ' 1 3
. 1 3 3 . M . 1 ( ( ( 1 / . 5 $ 1 $ $ 1 $ 1 5 $ ( 1
- . 1 ( + 1 / . 1 3 ( 1 5 + 3 ( . - 3 4 / . 1
6 1 / ( 1 3 ) / . + $ 1 3
8 . 1 1 / # / 1 3 8 + 5 M
3 ' . 1 3 $ - M / ( 1 ( 1 ( 5 # &
4 - & 4 2 1 *
1 8
/ 4 / . 1 3 / . 1 3 2 ( 1 2 " 1
$ 4 4 /
6 & 4 ( - $ 2 2 . 1 3 5 $ - $ 9 4 $ +
businesstraveller.com
UPFRONT
AT YOUR SERVICE T WO MACDONNELL ROAD Situated in Mid-Levels next to Hong Kong Park and the Hong Kong Botanical Gardens, the 213-room serviced residence offers accommodation ranging from 31 sqm Standard rooms to 70 sqm Family suites. Its Café Bar on 8 serves breakfast, grab-and-go meals, lunch buffet, afternoon tea plus a wide range of international dishes, from classic English fish and chips to Asian favourites such as Hainanese chicken rice. There is also a common room, business centre and gym. twomr.com.hk
AVANI ME TROPOLIS AUCKL AND RESIDENCES Located 30 minutes’ drive from Auckland International Airport, the property offers 65 apartments including one- and two-bedroom categories, each featuring a kitchen with oven and dishwasher, as well as a washing machine, free wifi and a grocery delivery service. Some apartments also come with a balcony. Guests also receive Avani’s “Forget Me Not” amenities, including yoga mats, GHD hair straighteners, international power adaptors, and sewing and dental kits. minorhotels.com
CASA MERIDIAN RESIDENCE Owned by Capitaland’s The Ascott Limited, CASA Meridian Residence is located in Phnom Penh’s up-and-coming residential and retail hub of Diamond Island Koh Pich. It offers 75 residences on the top 13 floors of the 34-storey integrated development CASA by Meridian, which also comprises a high-end shopping mall, office space and wellness facilities. Also available in the serviced residence is an infinity pool, Jacuzzi, yoga room, sauna, clubhouse, gym, meeting room and serviced office. somerset.com
SHERWOOD SUITES Situated in District 3 of Ho Chi Minh City, Sherwood Suites Saigon offers 157 apartments ranging from 57 sqm studios to 118 sqm two-bedroom apartments. Each unit features contemporary Italian designer furniture, a kitchen, a marble bathroom, smart TV and free wifi. There’s also an outdoor deck on the first floor featuring a covered 20-metre-long pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi, while the pool bar offers a menu of light bites, premium drinks and handcrafted cocktails. sherwoodsuites.vn
businesstraveller.com
ASCENT: Air France will make its return to Taipei after an absence of almost 20 years starting April 16, 2018. China Airlines launched its non-stop flights to London Gatwick in December, using its newest aircraft, the Airbus A350. Air Canada began flying seasonally from Vancouver to Melbourne in December, with the route set to go year-round from June 1, 2018. Scoot has set its sights on low-cost long-haul flights to Berlin, which it will launch in the second half of this year. Philippine Airlines has cut out the Vancouver stopover on its Toronto service and now flies non-stop to Toronto four times weekly.
DESCENT: Royal Brunei Airlines has postponed the return of its non-stop flights to Beijing with the new date set for “early 2018”. United will not be bringing back its seasonal thrice-weekly San Francisco-Xian service this year.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
13
UPFRONT
Building alliances PREFERRED HOTELS & RESORTS has added 25 new member hotels and resorts across eight countries. Joining Asian properties such as Harbour Grand Hong Kong and One Farrer Hotel & Spa, are The Primus Hotel Shanghai Hongqiao, Wanda Reign Wuhan and Connect Busan. Members of the iPrefer loyalty programme can enjoy exclusive rates when booking a hotel under the group. Small Luxury Hotels of the World has also introduced four members globally, including Ovolo Woolloomooloo, which stretches along the longest timber-piled wharf in the world and looks out over iconic Sydney Harbour. preferredhotels.com and slh.com
14
ASIA’S MOST EXPENSIVE BUSINESS TRAVEL DESTINATIONS Daily business travel expense (US$)
The typical cost per day of a business trip in Asia-Pacific’s five most expensive destinations
Transport & incidentals Meals & drinks Four-star hotel
Source: Employment Conditions Abroad 2017
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
Tokyo
Total: 536 59
187
290
284
Hong Kong Seoul
Total: 508 38
186
262
Total: 490 37 191
251
Total: 472 Total: 456 35 24 155
186
277
Singapore Dhaka businesstraveller.com
UPFRONT
W I N A FREE HOTEL STAY IN TAIPEI
THIS MONTH’S Business Traveller Asia-Pacific competition prizes come from the Shangri-La’s Far Eastern Plaza Hotel, Taipei. Recently renovated, it offers a revamped space for travellers staying in the heart of Taipei’s business district. Voted 2017’s Best Business Hotel in Taipei by readers of Business Traveller Asia-Pacific, the property offers panoramic views of the city, restaurants serving five different international cuisines, and a heated rooftop swimming pool. Two winners will each receive a three-night stay in a Horizon Deluxe Room including daily breakfast and access to the Horizon Club executive lounge (Feb 15-18, 2018 blackout dates apply). For more details and to enter, visit businesstraveller.com/competitions
NOVEMBER’S ONLINE COMPETITION WINNERS: Daniel Meyer (UK) and Anja Feickert (Germany) each won a three-night weekend stay in a Horizon Club Harbour View Room at the Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong.
What’s on in Jan/Feb… AUSTRALIAN OPEN 2018 The world’s best tennis players hit the global stage in Melbourne to battle for the first Grand Slam title of the season; Jan 15–18; Melbourne Park; from A$49 (US$37); ausopen.com
SINGAPORE ART WEEK This massive art festival will see dozens of exhibitions, walking tours, talks, art fairs and after-parties happening across precincts, galleries and museums; Jan 17–28; various locations; ticket prices vary; artweek.sg
CAT S (MUSICAL) Following its triumphant season in London’s West End, the revival of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s record-breaking musical CATS comes to Hong Kong for a limited season; Jan 6–Feb 11; Lyric Theatre; from HK$445 (US$57); hkticketing.com
businesstraveller.com
HOT DEALS Capri by Fraser, Changi City in Singapore has a Corporate Room Package that includes accommodation in a Studio Premier Room, daily buffet breakfast for one, two pieces of laundry, complimentary checkout at 3pm, as well as onetime minibar welcome amenities. The package rate starts from S$256 (US$189) and is valid until June 30, 2018. singapore.capribyfraser.com/en
Mantra Samui Resort has a Mantra for Mantra package. It includes round-trip airport transfer, two treatments per day from the spa menu per person, daily healthy lunch or dinner at The View restaurant, daily breakfast, one private meditation class for two and one private yoga class for two. A three-night stay is required. The package starts from THB22,380 (US$686) and is valid until March 30, 2018. mantrasamui.com
Hotel Jen Orchardgateway Singapore is running a Club Indulgence package. Enter promo code “BTJEN18” to enjoy one piece of laundry pressing per day, two hours’ complimentary use of a meeting room, and access to the Club Lounge with private check-in and checkout, buffet breakfast and evening cocktails. The package rate starts from S$278 (US$206) for stays in a Club Room, and is available until March 31, 2018. hoteljen.com/singapore/ orchardgateway JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
15
INBOX YOUR LETTERS
Star letter
STAR LET TER PRIZE
BEYOND REDEMPTION
18
I am a frequent traveller and have often booked accommodation with the Accorhotels group. Being a Silver member and having collected points over the years, I finally made a redemption booking and it turned out to be the worst experience I have ever had with any hotel group. I was travelling to the UK with my family in June and planned one night’s stay in Reading. I was looking for a newly renovated hotel with elevators, parking space and air conditioning. Ibis Styles Reading Centre checked all the boxes so I made a reservation on April 30 – nearly two months before arrival. I used 8,000 points to settle the bill. As usual, I got a reservation confirmation from Accor immediately. A few days before arrival, I received another email welcoming me to stay in the hotel. Everything appeared to be in order. However, when I arrived at the hotel to check in, the receptionist told me that my reservation was not in their system and the hotel was completely full. It was the last thing I expected, particularly after all of the communication from Accor. She told me all she could do was to put us up at the Mercure George Hotel, just around the corner. At 8pm after a long drive, I had no choice but to accept. However, the stay was terrible. First I had to physically carry three 30kg suitcases up a staircase, then we had to stay in a room without air-con (during England's hottest week in 2017). To make things worse, it was a Saturday night and throughout the night I was woken up by waves of shouting, laughing, drunken partygoers. I woke up the next day as exhausted as when I arrived. I wrote to Accor twice in July to explain my experience and demand an explanation for such a basic
This month’s Star Letter winner will receive one of the new Business Traveller branded cabin-size suitcases from Timothy Travel Essentials (timothytravel essentials.co.uk). For your chance to win the Star Letter, email us at editorial@ businesstraveller asia.com and include your full postal address and daytime telephone number. We reserve the right to edit letters.
error. Accor never replied. Ironically, Accor did reply instantly to another query about missing points from a different stay during the same trip, stating my stay was ineligible for reward points even though the reservation was made on their official website… I just can’t believe that Accor, which is always strict in awarding points to its customers, “rewards” its customers in the exact opposite manner when it comes to redemption. Kelvin Lo, Hong Kong
ACCORHOTELS RESPONDS: We apologise profoundly to Mr Lo for delivering an experience which is below our own high standards, as is the unfortunate delay in responding. Guests are our utmost priority and we thank Mr Lo for raising this matter so we can have the opportunity to address what went wrong on this occasion. We can confirm the hotel in question has subsequently been in touch on the subject of recompense for this experience and the delays in responding. Separately, there are a few hotels in our portfolio that choose not to participate in our loyalty scheme, so we advise customers to check when booking that the hotel in question participates in Le Club Accor Hotels and that points can be awarded.
T E L L U S A B O U T Y O U R T R AV E L S AT E D I TO R I A L @ B U S I N E S S T R AV E L L E R A S I A .C O M
Valid until 28th Feb, 2018
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
businesstraveller.com
INBOX YOUR LETTERS
MAKEOVER MAGIC
H O P E L E S S LY U N C O M P E T I T I V E
I’ve been a long-time reader of Business Traveller and just wanted to say I am very impressed with the new design in the December issue. Obviously the content was great as usual, but the new design and cover really stood out. Keep up the good work!
My wife and I have been loyal customers of Malaysia Airlines for more than 40 years. However, recent changes and cutbacks there have forced us to use other airlines. We booked return business class tickets, Perth to London. Then I stumbled upon the news that our afternoon flight was axed and we would be going on the 0210 flight to connect up with the morning A380. OK, not too bad, as at least we had beds on the A330. But not long after, they took the A330 off the run and put a B737 in its place. They also changed the timings of the A380 and its days of operation. What a shambles – and how horrible was the B737, with just basic J class seats and no J class amenities. The food was disgraceful and it was impossible to rest. On the A380 we were put next to the galley for the nearly 14-hour flight. Admittedly, we were given vouchers to the value of RM400 (US$98) to spend on duty free on the plane, but the airline has cut back so much it is no longer enjoyable to f ly with them. Their product is so hopelessly uncompetitive in every respect, from the grubby Golden Lounge at KLIA to run-down planes and now, for us, hopeless schedules.
Simon Chan, Hong Kong
BUS I N E S S T R AVEL L ER A SIA-PACIFIC RE SP ONDS: Thank you Simon. It’s always gratifying to receive positive feedback. The team worked really hard on the redesign so it’s great to hear our readers are just as happy with it as we are.
LOUNGE LET-DOWN Thai Airways (TG) used to have its own lounge at Ninoy Aquino International Airport’s Terminal 1. It was a bit congested, but the food and drink, reading materials and ambience were impressive. On November 3, I f lew from Manila to Bangkok and found that the lounge was closed for renovation. Instead, we were directed to the smaller PAGSS-operated lounge, which is also shared with Korean Air. Everything about this lounge is simply pathetic: from location to the seats, food and beverage offering, reading materials and even air quality. Prior to boarding, I relayed my experience to the Thai Airways airport manager. He apologetically replied many other passengers have said the same. May I suggest that Thai Airways give its premium passengers in Manila the choice of PAGSS lounges or vouchers for the coffee shops, such as the Starbucks inside Terminal 1. In this way, we will certainly be silenced because we have a choice and the decision is ours. I have high regard for Thai Airways. In my opinion, its in-f light service is better than many others. Lim Kong Yan, Philippines
T H A I A I R WAY S R E S P O N D S : Thank you for your impression of our in-flight service and suggestions. When Thai Airways International (THAI)’s Royal Orchid Lounge at Manila’s Ninoy Aquino International Airport closed for renovation, we began accommodating our premium passengers in the PAGSS lounge (our ground handling agents). During the renovation of THAI lounge, we discussed with PAGSS to facilitate our premium passengers in the other lounge (not the small one). Unfortunately, the capacity of the larger PAGSS lounge was full and was not able to accommodate all of our valued passengers. We also gave suggestions to PAGSS to improve the small lounge, for example by removing the smell of food, making it more tidy, changing the carpet, etc. There was a little improvement, but it still did not meet our standards of quality. Our international station in Manila kept working hard to negotiate with the authorities at Manila airport in order to let THAI passengers use the larger lounge and recently we succeeded. However, we’re delighted to say that the THAI lounge is expected to reopen in March 2018 to serve our valued customers. We do apologise for any inconvenience caused during the lounge renovation period and thank you for your understanding. businesstraveller.com
Kevin Jackson, Australia
M A L AY S I A A I R L I N E S R E P L I E S : We are very disappointed to hear that our customers had such a bad experience, and we apologise sincerely for this. Malaysia Airlines takes all customer complaints very seriously and we will be investigating this matter further. We would like to invite both passengers to speak with the regional manager personally to discuss how we can better meet their needs moving forward.
THINGS THAT GO BUMP ON THE FLIGHT I have a question that I hope Business Traveller can answer: I have f lown internationally for more than 30 years and luckily never had any major in-flight problems. However, I have been on board many planes that suffered serious turbulence. Interestingly, it’s almost always been during a f light over mainland China (with a variety of Chinese and other carriers). Can you tell me, is China particularly prone to turbulence, and if so why? Or is it just coincidence? Agnes Wong, Shanghai
BUS I N E S S T R AV EL L ER A SI A-PA C I F I C R E S P OND S : This is an interesting question, but after doing some online research we’re afraid we don’t have a definitive answer for you Agnes. The main causes of in-flight turbulence are rugged mountain terrain, thunderstorms, crossing high-altitude jet streams (where air moving at different speeds meet) or passing through certain types of clouds (such as heavy cumulus) – most of which are predictable for the pilot. China’s many mountain regions and changing weather patterns would certainly increase the chance of turbulence, but it seems to occur just as much in the US and other locations, as well as over certain parts of the world’s major oceans. Regardless of where you are flying, it pays to follow the pilot’s instructions on wearing your seat belt. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
19
INBOX FORUM
Join the debate READERS SHARE FIRST-HAND KNOWLEDGE, EXPERIENCES AND TRAVEL SOLUTIONS BUSINESSTRAVELLER.COM/FORUM MIGHT CATHAY PACIFIC QUIT ONEWORLD
POST AMCWHIRTER
BIZARRE FOODS IN PURSUIT OF BUSINESS
POST MARTYNSINCLAIR
Has anyone tried any bizarre foods – especially when you have a client/customer opposite you and there’s a big contract waiting to be signed? I’ve always fancied trying the fugu fish in Japan, but the right opportunity has never presented itself. Been to a snake restaurant in Vietnam but bottled it, avoided trying both rattlesnake and crocodile in the States... I suppose I’m quite boring where food is concerned…
➜ NAVNOV11 20
1. Fugu fish, snake wine, sparrow-on-astick in Japan. 2. Rattlesnake burger in Camden Town. 3. Crocodiles and kangaroos Down Under. 4. Duck’s heart, lungs, liver and curdled blood at a duck-only place in Shanghai. 5. Brain masala; a sumptuous, spicy dish I have had in India, London and Sydney.
➜ STEVESCOOTS It’s a long list, such are the exotic tastes of Officials in Asia (when someone else is paying!): snake, lots of it; sheep’s tail, as disgusting as it sounds; sheep’s anus…; buffalo hoof, slow cooked and just about the only thing I have nearly thrown up while eating; monkey, or at least that’s what they said it was...
➜ F A R O F LY E R Dog in South Korea and the following in China: deep-fried beetles, deep-fried duck beak, snake, turtle paws. The only food that I have ever had a serious reaction to was drunken prawns in Hong Kong. When I was young my mother would cook sheep’s brains on toast if I was unwell. I wish I could get the recipe and ingredients, as they were lovely.
Today comes news from Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post that local airline Cathay Pacific (CX) may depart Oneworld (OW) in favour of a rival alliance like Star or Skyteam. I must stress that it’s speculation at this stage but there are rumours that this could happen should mainland carrier China Southern (CZ) defect from Skyteam in favour of Oneworld. If this were to happen there would certainly be a conflict between the two carriers. In particular the mainland Chinese carriers combined have already stolen a slice of Cathay Pacific’s market between Hong Kong, Europe and North America. For its part CX has already been cooperating with Star’s founding member Lufthansa (LH) for some months already. And CX is also 30 per cent owned by Air China, another Star member. Developments are awaited.
➜ RFERGUSON My feeling is that they won’t leave OW. OW has always been one of the loser alliances and airlines like CX are using that to their advantage – ie the LH tieup. They can enjoy the freedom of being part of one of the large alliances whilst still pursuing independent agreements with airlines from competing alliances without grief from other OW airlines. I know the fact that Star’s Air China is a large shareholder in CX has fuelled the “leaving OW” rumours but it’s worth noting Qatar (QR) is also their thirdlargest shareholder. Regarding CZ leaving Skyteam, I read elsewhere that this is due to it feeling like a “second tier” airline within the alliance. Both CZ and China Eastern (CE) are in Skyteam. The article mentions that since Delta (cited as the “one that calls the shots in Skyteam”) purchased a stake in CE it
has been pushing much more business in their direction and neglecting CZ. As Air China is in Star, OW would be an obvious choice for CZ – and a boon for OW which has no alliance airline in mainland China.
➜ LUGANOPIRATE The other side of the coin is whether Star Alliance carriers such as Singapore Airlines and Thai would be happy letting another rival in. Both serve HKG via their SIN and BKK hubs so they may object quite strongly.
➜ IANFROMHKG It’s an interesting idea, but I’m not sure that CZ is really that much of a competitor to CX in Hong Kong. Now that I no longer travel for work, I regularly check alternative routings/airlines for long-haul travel in order to get the best deals, and have yet to find a competitive fare/routing on CZ. This is probably because it isn’t easy to get between HKG (Hong Kong) and CAN (Guangzhou). Do you know how many flights there are per day between HKG and CAN? Two – both operated by Cathay Dragon. The fastest alternative travel option (driving) takes at least two hours. Other options are threeplus hours – in which time you could be in BKK with a vast number of possible connections. Where CZ might be a competitor is in Europe-China or North America-China – but CX have plenty of competition on those indirect routes already anyway. And don’t forget that CX’s alliance partners Finnair and British Airways compete in the HK-Europe market, American Airlines in the HK-North America market, Qantas in the HKAustralia market, etc. Having a Chinese partner for domestic routes can only be good for Oneworld, IMHO. I don’t really see what CX has to be afraid of.
SHARE YOUR E XPERIENCES ON OUR FORUM BUSINESSTRAVELLER.COM/FORUM JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
businesstraveller.com
BUSINE S S TR AVELLER PAR T NER SHIP
Bespoke Luxury Living
21
Ascott’s The Crest Collection creates prestigious new addresses in the City of Light
A
brand by The Ascott Limited, The Crest Collection was launched in 2016. The Crest Collection is created with the luxury jetsetter in mind, offering modernity and premium comfort in prestigious locales, blending heritage with modern luxury. Bespoke luxury living is the defining trait of The Crest Collection. The Crest Collection is where contemporary design and European grandeur meet, where luxury knows no limit. Comprising a handpicked collection of elegantly designed serviced residences, each luxurious serviced residence offers a feel of home with plush living environments, modern facilities and unparalleled services. Over in France, two options are available for short and extended stays in the City of Light. Clad in an Art Nouveau-style façade, La Clef Louvre Paris is just steps away from its namesake museum, and only a few minutes away from the Opéra.
businesstraveller.com
Just across the road from the residence is Palais-Royal where guests can enjoy a stroll in the lovely Tuileries Garden. The glamorous residence features intimate suites, a fitness centre, residents’ lounge, 24-hour reception and limousine service. Meanwhile, La Clef Tour Eiffel Paris is a contemporary embodiment of Parisian joie de vivre. It seamlessly marries Parisian elegance in a 19th-century Haussman-style building
designed by Spanish architect Ricardo Bofill. Few locations capture the beating heart and wonderment of Paris quite as well as its 16th Arrondissement, an area between the Trocadéro and Avenue des Champs Élysées, and where this serviced residence is located. Guests will be spoilt for choice by its lavish units, ranging from classic rooms to two-bedroom apartments with a fully equipped kitchen. The third prestigious residence, La Clef Champs-Élysées Paris, is slated to welcome its first guest in 2018. Located along Rue de Bassano in the prestigious 8th Arrondissement of Paris, the serviced residence will offer elegantly designed units with refined décor, restaurant, residents’ lounge and fitness centre. Bask in the luxury of comfort in these residences whilst enjoying city adventures for an experience that is simply unforgettable. For more information, +65 6272 7272; www.crestcollectionbyascott.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
22
NAVIGATING
Find your way with ease on your next trip to the Japanese capital
WORDS ROB GOSS 23
T
24
he cliché about getting lost in translation is one thing. Simply getting lost is another. Tokyo has always been notoriously difficult to get around, from the confusing address system (not based on street addresses) to a mind-boggling network of train lines. Wifi hotspots, accessible data and English-language apps have also typically been few and far between. Short of a personal guide, a good GPS system (and a stellar sense of direction) used to be the only hope for foreigners to the city. However, with the 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games on the horizon, and not forgetting the 2019 Rugby World Cup, Tokyo is seeing a swathe of tech infrastructure and service industry upgrades that promise to make the city more accessible and easier to navigate for the growing number of foreign visitors.
THIS PAGE FROM LEFT: JAL Explorer app; and Tokaido Sanyo Shinkansen reservation app
APP-ROPRIATE SOLUTIONS Tokyo has one of the most efficient public transport systems in the world – a train company’s recent apology for a 20-second delay made headlines around the world – but the sheer size and complexity can be confusing to say the least. This is especially true at major stations like Shinjuku and Shibuya, where the crowds and vast number of exits and platforms are overwhelming. To combat this, the government has implemented more tourist information offices dotted around the city. One recent service has been the addition of nonJapanese guidance staff at busy locations such as Tokyo
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
Station who can give directions and other information in a variety of languages. Service providers are also upping their app game to help people navigate Tokyo and beyond. The Japan National Tourism Organization ( JNTO), for example, recently launched the Japan Official Travel App (jnto. go.jp/smartapp/eng) available in Chinese (simplified and traditional), English and Korean, offering a mix of content such as travel articles with practical information on how to get around, route searches for trains, maps, and guides to manners and customs – quite a handy free resource to have in your pocket. Another new app that could be useful for anyone aiming to get out of Tokyo is the Tokaido Sanyo Shinkansen Reservation App (smart-ex.jp/en/lp/app). With it, JR Central and JR West have teamed up to create the first app in Japan that allows train bookings in English – in this case for the bullet train – and also allows you to change bookings up to four minutes before departure. It’s currently available for download in the US, Australia, Hong Kong and Singapore, although a spokesperson for JR says it will soon be rolled out in other countries and similar English apps will hopefully be following to allow bookings on a greater number of trains and lines. GETTING CONNECTED Of course, apps aren’t much good if you can’t access them, and despite Japan’s high-tech image, it’s been something of an oddity that wifi accessibility has long businesstraveller.com
TOKYO
PLAIN SAILING
If trains, buses and taxis aren’t your thing, and you have some spare time in between meetings, Tokyo has another mode of transport up its sleeve: water buses. Aiming to offer an alternative to the city’s highly congested roads, a number of companies have launched services around Tokyo Bay, mainly operating routes around Odaiba and up the Sumida River to Asakusa. Tokyo Cruise Ship company offers the most daily services, with the scenic journeys lasting between 20 minutes and an hour, and starting at ¥780 (US$7; suijobus.co.jp/en). If the schedules don’t suit, there’s also a flexible on-demand service. Tokyo Water Taxi (pictured below) began operating its first diesel-powered vessels Tokyo has one of the in mid-2016 around Tokyo most efficient public Bay’s waterways, and plans to have a total of 60 iconic transport systems in yellow boats operating by the world... but it can the time the 2020 Olympic Games rolls around. Some be very confusing landings welcome visitors without a reservation, but it’s best to book (there’s a maximum capacity of six people). Journeys cost around ¥2,000 (US$18; water-taxi.tokyo).
25
ESSENTIAL APPS FOR NEGOTIATING JAPAN GOOGLE TRANSLATE This app allows you to translate to and from multiple languages by typing or pasting in text or by speaking into your phone’s microphone. Its finest feature, however, is the camera input. With it, you can scan something like a Japanese menu and get a fairly accurate translation appear over the top of the words it detects. HYPERDIA Free for 30 days after you first install it, this app makes navigating public transportation easy, providing timetable information and detailed route searches for trains, subways and planes nationwide. GURUNAVI Type in parameters such as your location, the kind of food you want and even your budget, and this app will list all the options, including info on whether or not the restaurant has an English menu or English-speaking staff. businesstraveller.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
With the JAL Explore Japan Wifi app, travellers can connect to more than 200,000 hotspots countrywide
26
ROOM FOR GROWTH
Japan’s target of 20 million inbound travellers annually by 2020 was reached four years early – the government has now revised that target to 40 million. To cater to that growth, an additional 10,000 rooms are slated for the capital before the Games, many of them ticking all the five-star boxes. Looking at the newest offerings, Hoshino Resorts Co opened the Hoshinoya Tokyo early in 2017 in the central Otemachi district, not far from Tokyo Station, offering a blend of high-end resort and traditional Japanese inn. The Aman group has launched a similarly sleek, relaxation-focused property nearby: the Aman Tokyo. In November, Marriott introduced the group’s millennial-focused lifestyle brand with the opening of Moxy Tokyo Kinshicho, and also has a pair of Marriott Edition properties scheduled for 2020, one in the Toranomon business district and another just off the main avenue in the prestigious Ginza area. Looking forward also reveals that Accorhotels will make a brand debut in the Japanese capital when it opens its 143-room Pullman Tokyo Tamachi in autumn 2018, while luxury serviced residence Oakwood Apartments Nishi-Shinjuku is scheduled to open in the summer. A 190-room Four Seasons property is also planning to open in Otemachi by 2020. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
businesstraveller.com
TOKYO
been extremely patchy while out and about in the capital. However that appears to be changing. Teaming up with rail and bus operators, plus certain tourist spots and public facilities, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s Free Wi-Fi & Tokyo (wifi-tokyo.jp) delivers connectivity in an increasing number of locations around the city. It still isn’t perfect but it is a move in the right direction. Another app offering this service is Travel Japan Wifi (japanfreewifi.com) from Wire and Wireless Co. A recent partnership with f lag carrier Japan Airlines ( JAL) has also seen the launch of an upgraded version, the JAL Explore Japan Wifi app, available for both Android and Apple devices. With this app, travellers can automatically connect to more than 200,000 wifi hotspots operated by the company across Japan in public areas such as airports, major train stations, restaurants and key tourist locations. The app is specifically designed to cater to foreigners – residents in Japan are not even able to download the programme, and it’s available in English, traditional and simplified Chinese, Korean and Thai, while Japanese is not supported. If, however, you want guaranteed data during your stay, sort out pocket wifi when you arrive at Narita or Haneda airport. Alternatively, a free SIM card courtesy of new start-up Wamazing was rolled out in February 2017. Foreigners can pre-register for the service and then pick up their free SIM from vending machines at Tokyo Narita airport. The SIM also comes with 500MB of data or usage for five days – whichever you hit first. Additional data can be bought through the Wamazing app (apps.wamazing. jp), plus access to services such as hotel reservations, taxi hailing or booking activities. So far the app is only available in traditional Chinese, aimed at travellers from Hong Kong and Taiwan, but Wamazing plans to offer English, simplified Chinese and Korean in the future.
OPPOSITE PAGE FROM TOP: Tokyo Edition Ginza; Moxy Tokyo Kinshicho; Hoshinoya Tokyo THIS PAGE: Multiple smartphone apps provide easy access to travel information, or simply ask your friendly neighbourhood robot businesstraveller.com
FUTURE-TECH Given Japan’s reputation for robotics, it comes as no surprise that Tokyo is also turning to automatons to help visitors. In November Tokyo’s governor, Yuriko Koike, unveiled five multilingual robots at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building as a test run before the 2020 Games. The five – all of which can communicate in Japanese and English, with some able to use Chinese and Korean, too – will be in place until February 2018 to see how well they can assist visitors with such things as tourist information and directions. Taking things even further into the future, you will soon be able to pay for and access a range of services with the tap of a finger. The new “Touch & Pay” authentication system is part of the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry’s efforts to promote biometric identification services, and since October it is gradually being rolled out at hotels and tourist sites across Tokyo. By 2020, it should allow travellers (after registering passport, credit card and fingerprint data at the airport or a tourist office) to check in, buy tickets, use lockers, and more across Tokyo using finger scans or e-passport scans. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
27
28
PUSHING BOUNDARIES From factory floor to innovation hub, Shenzhen’s exponential growth continues
29
WORDS TAMSIN COCK S
A GETTY IMAGES
mid the soaring glass towers and modern buildings of Shenzhen’s Futian CBD is a rare pocket of idiosyncratic low-rise buildings. The ramshackle structures of Gangxia village are colloquially known as “handshake buildings” after their densely packed formation, meaning neighbours could literally shake hands through the windows. Crammed full of tiny apartments, independent shops, food stalls and more, the “urban village” is bustling with life and atmosphere, providing affordable accommodation for the massive influx of migrants and low-income workers, a melting pot of street food cuisine from Hunan to Sichuan and shops catering to every possible need and want. This charismatic settlement is one of the last of its kind, a symptom of the rapid changes that have seen Shenzhen turn from a collection of traditional fishing villages with some 30,000 inhabitants to a metropolis of ten million people in less than 40 years. However, Ganxia’s days are numbered. Occupying prime space in the heart of Shenzhen, it won’t be long before the burgeoning city absorbs this urban village as it has many others. Happily for the owners of these dilapidated constructions, the payoff will be enough to set them up for life, with property prices in Shenzhen soaring to unheard-of figures. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
30
THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE: Futian CBD; electronics stores on Huaqiang North Street
“We call them billionaire villages,” jokes Grace Huang, marketing communications manager for Hilton Futian. “Property prices here used to be RMB10,000 [US$1,510] per square metre, but now they’re RMB100,000 [US$15,100]. This is the only village left and according to government plans, it will be removed by 2019 or 2020 at the latest.” While the rapid emergence of huge cities in China is not uncommon, Shenzhen is a special case for a number of well-documented reasons. In 1979, it was established as the first Special Economic Zone in China as part of Deng Xiaoping’s experimentation for reform and development. The experiment has been a resounding success. Opening up to foreign investment, combined with proximity to Hong Kong, turned Shenzhen into a manufacturing hub. Enormous foreign-run factories from Foxconn to Apple moved in, and Shenzhen became an electronics hub, churning out up to 90 per cent of the world’s gadgets and putting the former fishing village firmly on the map. The ongoing changes in Shenzhen are so rapid that visitors returning every few years are shocked at the continual rate of transformation. Luohu (Lo Wu) was the first established district and most important part of Shenzhen. Today it’s most famous for its shopping and nightlife, as well as serving as an important border crossing into Hong Kong. About five years ago, the
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
commercial focus shifted to Futian, the current CBD that now hosts the majority of financial institutions (including the towering Pin An Finance Centre) and more recently local government offices. Virtually every international luxury hotel brand has claimed a piece of the pie: Shangri-La, Four Seasons, Ritz-Carlton, Marco Polo, Sheraton, Hilton, Langham – and there’s still more to come, with recent signings for a Marriott and Park Hyatt in Luohu and a Mandarin Oriental due to open in 2018. “There’s still a lot of demand,” explains Huang. “We’re seeing more business travellers than ever. We used to have more leisure travellers, but now we’re 95 per cent business.” TECH GIANTS Growth has already spread beyond the boundaries of the “new” Futian CBD, moving farther west into Nanshan. While many cities clamber for the prestige of being called “Asia’s Silicon Valley”, the title is most frequently used in relation to Shenzhen. The “factory f loor of the world” has proven a fertile breeding ground for technological innovation. After all, there are few better places to find parts, supplies or manufacturers, with famous electronic malls like the SEG Electronics Market in Futian, whose eight f loors offer just about anything you could imagine, from circuit boards to LED lights. There’s also the Huaqiang North Commercial Street businesstraveller.com
SHENZHEN
electronics market, the largest of its kind, with around 20 different shopping malls dedicated to parts. This environment has given birth to a number of tech giants including Tencent, Huawei and ZTE. Other major tech players have also relocated and set up shop in the city, including Alibaba and Baidu, along with droves of start-up entrepreneurs eager to jump on the wave. According to a Financial Times report, Shenzhen is home to more than 180 start-up incubators and has exploded in terms of online services and new IoT (Internet of Things) applications. One of the most successful home-grown start-ups is drone manufacturer DJI, one of China’s top ten “unicorns” – so called for receiving a billion-dollar valuation out of the starting blocks. “Shanghai is a financial centre. Beijing is politics and finance. And Shenzhen is the technological hub of China,” agrees 30-year resident Raymond Su, resident manager at Kempinski Hotel Shenzhen. In addition to its tech legacy, Su believes another reason the city The “factory floor has flourished with respect to new of the world” has technology is its relative youth. “Shenzhen is a young city, not proven a fertile even 40 years old. So there’s no breeding ground for entrenched position of mindsets. tech innovation Young people can set up a new system and figure out how to do it efficiently. The local government is also more efficient and there’s less red tape.”
SHUTTERSTOCK
businesstraveller.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
31
SHENZHEN
MTRC
32
The government is working hard to attract and retain young talent, with a wide range of financial incentives from tax breaks to free rent schemes for returning graduates. Lifestyle benefits within this tech frontier are also evident – from the prevalence of mobile payments and app-centric services, to the presence of luxury brands like Godiva and cool New neighbourhoods new neighbourhoods like Shekou like Shekou are populated by growing numbers of expats populated by growing and modern entrepreneurs.
numbers of expats and entrepreneurs
ABOVE: The new high-speed railway from Guangzhou to Hong Kong via Shenzhen
EVENTFUL DESTINATION Major technology-centric events are also frequently held in the city, says Fiona Liao, director of communications at Shangri-La Hotel Shenzhen. From the Intel Development Forum, which welcomed more than 20,000 guests, to the “must-attend” Mars Summit. Apple, Tencent and Huawei all host major annual or biannual events as well. In fact, the city has a thriving conference and events industry in its own right, reveals Liao. “One of the reasons Shenzhen is so popular is that it’s very convenient with transport. Shangri-La is the first choice for a conference hotel in Shenzhen – we have more than 8,000 sqm of conference space and are near the Shenzhen Convention and Exhibition Centre. Recently we hosted the XIX International Botanical Congress, which saw more than 6,000 guests from 100 countries.” The MICE business is thriving so much that a brandnew convention centre is currently being built in the Airport New City in Bao’an District – touted to be the
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
largest in the world. The Shenzhen World Exhibition & Convention Centre mega facility is scheduled to be completed by the end of 2018, with 500,000 sqm of exhibition space comprising 19 exhibition halls plus meeting venues on either side. But the new Shenzhen World development is just one part of a new commercial and residential area planned for Bao’an, as Shenzhen develops even further into its western districts. According to Mao Daben, executive deputy general manager for China Merchants Real Estate’s exhibition operations centre: “The venue is in talks with IHG, Marriott, Hyatt and Accor [among others] to bring 4,000 hotel rooms in five-star and fourstar properties to the area.” The new development will be served by two metro stations, a new highway and a fourth terminal at the nearby airport, as part of continuing upgrades to transport infrastructure in order to keep up with demand. Commuters have been enjoying the added convenience provided by the ongoing expansion of Shenzhen’s metro line, which now boasts eight lines with three more under construction. Another major boost to the city’s transport network will come next year, with the completion of the new Guangzhou-Shenzhen-Hong Kong High Speed Railway that will whisk commuters from Futian to Hong Kong’s West Kowloon Station in just 15 minutes. With efficient transport, cutting-edge technology, world-leading conference venues and modern five-star accommodation, Shenzhen has come on in leaps and bounds in the past four decades – and there’s no sign of it slowing down any time soon. businesstraveller.com
BUSINE S S TR AVELLER PAR T NER SHIP
Luxury living
33
Discerning business travellers need look no further than the Futian Shangri-La, Shenzhen
F
utian Shangri-La, Shenzhen is a welcoming luxury retreat in the heart of Futian, the central business district of Shenzhen. The hotel is steps away from the newly opened Futian Station on the Guangzhou-Shenzhen-Hong Kong Express Rail Link – the largest underground station in Asia – and provides convenient access to both Shenzhen and Hong Kong’s international airports. Shenzhen Convention and Exhibition Center, Central Walk and Coco Park are all within walking distance, and the hotel is surrounded by shopping malls, bars, cinemas and supermarkets. The 40-storey luxury hotel houses 528 guestrooms and 53 serviced apartments offering impressive city and park views and the legendary Shangri-La hospitality. For business events, the hotel’s extensive 4,800 sqm of conferencing and catering facilities can host all kinds of
businesstraveller.com
functions for 20 to 2,000 delegates. Six food and beverage outlets feature an excellent variety of gastronomic experiences led by Executive Chef Adam Lin, a culinary master from Singapore. Highlights include the all-day dining Café Zen serving tantalising international favourites, and The Seventh Son restaurant offering exquisite Cantonese cuisine. The award-winning Shang Garden delights
palates with authentic Huaiyang flavours and Shang Garden Bar provides a relaxing and edgy venue to enjoy quality handcrafted cocktails. Meanwhile, the Lobby Lounge offers a relaxing ambience for socialising and savouring refreshing beverages and light snacks, and Shang Gourmet is a lively deli offering freshly brewed coffee, premium tea and homemade baked goods. The hotel also boasts the city’s most extensive fitness centre, generously equipped with a gym, indoor swimming pool and outdoor tennis courts. But for total relaxation, CHI, The Spa at Shangri-La is a sanctuary for revitalising the body and soothing the mind. Futian Shangri-La, Shenzhen 4088 Yi Tian Road, Futian District, Shenzhen, 518048, China; +86 755 8828 4088; shangri-la.com/shenzhen/ futianshangrila
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
34
Boeing’s B787 has changed the aviation landscape WORDS TOM OTLEY
35
36
T
here’s something unique about a brand-new aircraft. It’s not just the fresh-out-of-the box smell, or the sight of an interior as the designer intended it, rather than following the wear and tear of hundreds of passengers. It’s not even the specially selected crew accompanying you on the inaugural flight, or the senior pilot chosen to fly it home. It’s the difference of approach. Geographically, this is because you are flying directly from the factory, whether it’s Boeing at Everett, Washington, or North Charleston, South Carolina, or Airbus at Toulouse or Hamburg. Mentally, it’s because when you board an aircraft already in service, your excitement will be reserved for the destination; the aeroplane is just a means of conveyance. Not so with a delivery. The whole day, week or, in the case of those who’ve planned this event, months and years have been spent looking forward to this moment, and when the aircraft is new generation – a B787 Dreamliner, for instance – the excitement goes up a level. In part, this is because you have been prepped to notice the difference. Both Boeing’s Dreamliner, and Airbus’s answer to it, the A350 XWB (Extra Wide Body), of which more later, have been deliberately positioned as New Generation. The capitals JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
The “hub-busting” B787 enables airlines to fly between new city pairs economically
suggest that they have formed a category all of their own, that they are a step change and represent a technological leap forward. They are made in new ways from new materials and promise a new experience for those who fly them or are flown in them. Following years of waiting and, let’s face it, years of delays, anticipation about these developments has grown and grown... and now, finally, here they are. Boeing’s first B787 was delivered to All Nippon Airways (ANA) in 2011 (see The Dreamliner Story on p38) and, since then, more than 600 have followed. Boeing is increasing production in its two B787 factories in the US to 14 per month. Millions of passengers have already flown on them and a fair proportion may have asked themselves whether they noticed the “passenger enhancements” – the fresher
air, the larger windows, the quieter cabin, the mood lighting, or the slightly increased cabin pressure that supposedly lessens the ill effects of long-haul travel and even jet lag. It’s possible for f lyers to debate which aircraft they prefer – the B787, A350 or the double-decker A380. But for the majority of airlines and passengers, the A350 and the B787 have transformed long-haul flying. And as new variants arrive, new routes have opened. There’s a fair chance that you have already flown on the B787 Dreamliner. It has become a significant player in many fleets, including those of Air Canada, Air India, American Airlines, ANA, British Airways, Japan Airlines, LATAM Chile, Norwegian, Qatar Airways and United. It is in common use across many long-haul routes. In fact, it was designed as a medium-sized, point-topoint aircraft that doesn’t need to go via hubs, and can operate cost-effectively on less popular routes. So although British Airways has 25 of them, as a regular flyer between our offices in London and Hong Kong, I know BA will be using its older, and larger, aircraft on routes such as these. (Although that route is twice daily on either a B777300ER or an A380, so no complaints there). Much the same principle applies to Emirates, which relies principally on A380s and B777-300ERs to ferry people to and → from its Dubai hub. businesstraveller.com
AV I AT I O N
W H AT ’ S S P E C I A L ABOUT THE DREAMLINER? The wings Passengers often don’t want to think about the wings, since it seems a miracle that an aircraft can fly without them flapping. But those of the B787 are a thing of beauty. The aircraft is identifiable to even the most inept planespotters by virtue of its raked wingtip (where the wing sweeps upwards at the end). The wings are designed to give the aircraft greater fuel efficiency and allow it to climb more effectively. They also flex. At the Boeing factory I was told that they had a machine that tested how strong the wings were by lifting them upwards until they broke. In the case of the B787, its wings broke the machine instead.
and also not prone to the metal fatigue resulting from flexing. This allows cabin pressure to be maintained at a higher level than with previous aircraft – pressure equivalent to 1,800 metres altitude, instead of the more usual 2,400 metres, creating a more comfortable experience for passengers and crew. Boeing claims that just five per cent of passengers on the new aircraft experience discomfort during cabin pressure change, compared with 25 per cent in conventional aircraft on flights of 12 hours or more.
Larger windows Reduced turbulence Fly often enough and you will inevitably encounter turbulence. But with forecasting improvements, pilots can avoid the worst of the weather. Newer aircraft such as the B787 are very good at reducing turbulence. The aircraft has a gust-suppression system, which recognises changes in wind speed and direction, and counteracts them quickly to give a smoother ride.
Higher pressure The aircraft consists of a composite fuselage made of plastics wrapped with carbon fibre, which makes it stronger and lighter than aluminium,
businesstraveller.com
Dreamliner windows are 30 per cent larger than those on most commercial aircraft, with dimensions of 27.2cm x 47.6cm. It means more customers can maintain eye level with the horizon, which helps prevent motion sickness. On a daylight flight there’s more natural light, so your body can cope better with travelling through time zones. In place of the plastic window blinds – often a touchpaper for an argument between the person who raised them to read and those passengers trying to enjoy a snooze – the B787 windows are made from electrochromic glass, which has five stages of tint, ranging from
completely dark to fully transparent. While passengers can adjust the level of tint with electronic dimmers, it can also be controlled by the flight attendants.
Greater humidity Conventional aircraft have dry cabin air to reduce condensation (and corrosion) on the aluminium fuselage parts. The downside of this is dry eyes and nasal passages. But with no aluminium fuselage, the humidity can safely be increased in a B787. When the effect of this is combined with the feeling of space and comfort provided by the larger windows and open architecture, it can help reduce jet lag.
Coloured lighting Often referred to as “mood lighting”, the B787 has potentially hundreds of combinations. But, in practice, it has pre-determined settings: for take-off, landing, day boardings, evening service and sleep, including different settings for different cabins.
Less noise The B787 is significantly quieter than predecessors, making it easier to relax and sleep on board. The aircraft also has a quieter noise “footprint” on the ground below.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
37
BIN NUMBERS 787
Passenger capacity of the B787-8 Dreamliner
It will come as no surprise that, for the airlines, the reason for buying these aircraft is because they are economical to run, not because we like large windows on a plane. The beauty of the B787 is its ability to f ly long distances, cheaply. And it can even carry a decent amount of freight in the hold, helping to provide extra revenue for the route. The result is that airlines make more money on routes for which the aircraft has the appropriate number of seats, and also have more freedom to experiment with routes that previously weren’t commercially viable. Boeing positioned the aircraft as a “hubbuster”, or more prosaically, as a catalyst for “network fragmentation”, meaning that the B787 enables airlines to fly between new city pairs economically. Air India’s chairman and managing director, Rajiv Bansal, is clear that it has enabled the airline “to open numerous new and non-stop routes”. For
250-290
THE DREAMLINER STORY
50% composites
Half of the “primary structure” including the fuselage and wings, is made of composite materials: usually plastics, often reinforced with carbon fibre
20% savings
The improvement in fuel economy on the B787 compared to older planes
Mach 0.85
Typical cruising speed of the B787
210-242 38
Passenger capacity of the B787-9 Dreamliner
300-330
Passenger capacity of the B787-10 Dreamliner
15,400km
Range of the B787-9 Dreamliner
11,910km
Range of the biggest B787-10 Dreamliner
AN
R
RU RY 2018
British Airways a notable success has been London to Austin, while for an airline like United it was San Francisco to Chengdu (BA had a B787 on its Chengdu route, but this was dropped in 2017). Qantas intends to fly one of its new B787-9 aircraft non-stop between London and Perth in March, following the aircraft’s debut on its Melbourne to Los Angeles route in December, 2017. Ironically, although the B787 has certainly served this purpose for dozens of airlines, it has also allowed new entrants into the market – most noticeably Norwegian – to offer competition across the Atlantic at prices that previously would not have been possible. Fellow budget airline Scoot, a Singapore Airlines subsidiary, has also recently begun expanding into long haul with flights to Athens, Honolulu and, later this year, Berlin using the aircraft. Meanwhile, a carrier such as Cathay Pacific,
The first whispers of what would become the B787 began in early 2003 when Boeing gave the go-ahead for a “new super-efficient, mid-sized airplane”: then christened the Boeing 7E7 (the “E” stood for “efficiency, economics, environmental performance, exceptional comfort and convenience, and e-enabled systems”). Th moniker The ik didn did ’tt catch t h on though, th h so B787 it was. The intention wass to formally offer the plane to airline clients in 2004 4, and start delivering in 2008. It took three yearss longer than that, but the first test flight too ok place from Paine Field in Everett, in Washington State, on December 15, 2009, and concluded with touchdown at Boeing Field in nearby Seattle. The first delivery to an airrline was to All Nippon Airways (ANA) in September 2011. The larger B787-9 was delive ered to launch customer Air New Zealan nd in June 2014, while the largerstill B7787-10 will go to launch customer Singap pore Airlines this year. One of the original B787-8 Dreamliner flight te est planes was donated to the m of Flight in Seattle. Known as Museum ZA003, it was the third B787-8 produced, and circ cumnavigated the world several times in 2011 and 2012 during a “Dream Tour” that introduced the B787 to more than 68,000 visitors in n 23 countries.
businesstraveller.com
AV I AT I O N
39
which opted for the A350 XWB, has been using its Airbus planes on new routes like Düsseldorf (since dropped), restarting its Hong Kong to London Gatwick flights and, next year, using it on new routes such as Dublin and Brussels. There are currently two Dreamliner variants – the B787-8, and the larger B7879. A new one – the B787-10 – is coming in 2018 (the launch customer will be Singapore Airlines). Every airline configures its aircraft differently, and so the number of passengers that can be carried varies. If you want to know who gets the most on, or the fewest, go online to businesstraveller.com and our feature “The B787: how the airlines compare”. (We also have the same format for the A350 and the A380.) As for the A350 XWB, the extra-wide body tag seems to be a dig at the B787, and is an illustration of the irony of these newgeneration aircraft. At launch, the B787 businesstraveller.com
There are currently two Dreamliner variants – the B787-8 and larger B787-9. A new one – the B787-10 – is coming in 2018
was supposed to have only eight seats across in economy, but although launch customer ANA followed this, most other airlines went for nineacross (as did ANA with subsequent deliveries). Responding to negative feedback from the B787 passengers, when Airbus debuted its own new-generation aircraft, it made a big point of the extra 13cm of cabin width, giving the aircraft its “XWB” tag along with a “feel the space” advertising catchphrase. To business class passengers the difference is imperceptible, but to the vast majority of passengers who fly economy, every inch matters. British Airways quietly increased
the economy seat width by a centimetre on the B787-9. Whether this half an inch is enough is debatable (see our online article “Missed opportunity: Why the B787 fails the comfort test in economy”). As our consumer editor, Alex McWhirter, pointed out back in February 2015 in his feature entitled “Economy cabin: Feel the squeeze”, “travellers are getting bigger but economy cabins are becoming tighter”. So while the new-generation aircraft fly to new places and, in many cases, help airlines offer us competitive fares, the final promise of f lying in new levels of comfort probably only applies if you’re not in economy class. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
GETTY IMAGES
40
41
APPRECIATING
ANGKOR Temple tours and beyond in Siem Reap
WORDS TAMSIN COCK S
C 42
atching the sunrise at Angkor Wat is one of those rare bucket-list activities that truly deserve the hype. The mystical experience began with a 4.30am wake-up call and a short trek through pitch-black jungle. As dawn filtered into the night sky, a trio of soaring monolithic structures emerged from the darkness. The sheer size of the ancient towers was way beyond my expectations: more than 200 metres of intricately carved sandstone. Entering the 200-hectare (500-acre) complex from the deserted Ta Kou east entrance (most people arrive from the west gate) afforded me a rare tourist-free moment to absorb the magnitude of the thousand-year-old site – a faint chorus of chanting from Buddhist monks providing the perfect ethereal soundtrack. I arrived at the western entrance where a group of bleary-eyed tourists were gathered, cameras at the ready, to capture the majestic sight of Angkor Wat reflected in the lake as the sunrise flecked the sky with a kaleidoscope of reds, oranges and purples. The awe-inspiring temple is one of the largest religious sites in the world, built as a Hindu temple whose masterful architecture replicates elements of the universe: the surrounding moat a symbol of the oceans, the soaring temples stretching to heaven. Having a guide provided invaluable insight into the various features and secrets of the remarkably well-preserved complex: the square holes that were once sacred pools; the mysterious doorway that only echoes when a person beats their chest; the 3,000 unique apsaras (celestial nymphs) carved into the walls; the numerous decapitated Buddhas, whose heads were plundered to sell on the black market. At 7.30am I joined the opening queue to climb the hundred-odd seriously steep steps to Bakan, the sacred summit of the central tower – there’s a strict limit on numbers, so it’s best to go early to avoid the queues. From the lofty height of Bakan you can look over the grounds of Angkor Wat, and beyond. Though it is mostly hidden under jungle canopy, the sprawling 400sq km Unesco World Heritage-listed archaeological site contains scores of ancient temples from the old Khmer Empire. Bayon was next on our hit list, a short drive away. The entrance is guarded by two snaking lines of fearsome stone warriors holding nagas (mythological serpents) in front of a large archway topped with a four-sided face. The Buddhist temple of Bayon is a maze of galleries, towers and more steep steps, but is most famous for the hundreds of giant, smiling stone faces carved into the walls and towers. There are also some incredibly detailed stone bas-reliefs carved into the walls depicting everyday life. From childbirth and cooking to gambling and war, the nationalities, dress and expressions are clearly visible in the fascinating historical narrative. The final stop of my tour was Ta Prohm – famous the world over thanks to its Hollywood debut in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. The iconic silk cotton and fig tree roots creeping over the temple doorways, and stone walls covered in vivid green moss, are incredibly photogenic. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
Again, visitors have free reign to explore and soak up the atmosphere, and – of course – pose for the iconic “tombraider” shots. By the time I’d explored these three magnificent ruins, it was around 1pm. Hardcore temple hunters can continue on to many more sites, but for me, some food and a nap were in order. I retreated to the beautiful Shinta Mani Angkor boutique resort (adjoining the Shinta Mani Shack resort), a short tuk-tuk ride or walk from the centre of town. The collection of 37 rooms was designed by renowned architect Bill Bensley, whose distinctive fingerprint is everywhere – from the optical illusion pool floor to Sunrise at Angkor the Khmer-inspired modern artwork. Wat is one of those Favourite features of my beautiful rare bucket-list Deluxe Poolview Suite included the artwork depicting scenes from Angkor, activities that truly in particular the fresco directly above deserve the hype the bed that greeted me first thing in the morning, the spacious Terrazzo bathroom and rainshower, and the private balcony overlooking the pool. In addition to international dishes, the hotel’s on-site Kroya restaurant features a dazzling array of Khmer cuisine, which is all about contrasts. The seven-course tasting menu features fine-dining delights such as sun-dried fish with watermelon, beef lok lak and crispy fermented businesstraveller.com
SHUTTERSTOCK
SIEM REAP
43
pork with roasted eggplant and papaya slaw. After dinner, we headed up to the relaxed Bill Bensley bar for some modern cocktails and booked a rejuvenating treatment at the on-site spa (top tip: try the popular Khmer Coffee Scrub for a local twist, which combines white clay and organic Cambodian coffee beans from the hill tribes of Ratanakiri province). In December the hotel launched a super-luxe collection of ten private villas. The exquisite two-storey villas feature lush gardens, spacious accommodation, private pools and butler service, plus service add-ons in the form of fast-track immigration at the airport (shintamani.com). If not for the temples at Angkor, Siem Reap would likely have remained a small, unknown Cambodian village. However, the treasured heritage site has seen the town blossom since the end of the political troubles. While once there was little to do apart from temple tours, Siem Reap is developing its tourist appeal fast, with a raft of new hotels, fine-dining establishments, cultural activities and entertainment on offer in recent years. The heart of Siem Reap’s nightlife emanates from the lively “Pub Street” – a collection of bars, restaurants and live music that merge happily with the customary Southeast Asian night market. One more distinctive addition – not for the faint-hearted – is the presence of food stalls selling genuine local snacks… in the form of scorpions, snakes, crickets and fried tarantulas. If, like me, the latter is the stuff of nightmares, bragging rights businesstraveller.com
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT: Sunrise at Angkor Wat; the many faces of Bayon temple; snake snacks in Siem Reap
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
SIEM REAP
TEMPLE TOURING
The main temple complex is open 5am-5pm (certain temples 7.30pm). Tickets can be purchased from Angkor Enterprise on Street 60, Siem Reap. An English guide with air-conditioned van costs around US$80. Additionally, a one-day pass for the temples costs US$37; three-day pass US$62; seven-day pass US$72.
44
can still be gained by posing for a photograph for a very reasonable US$0.50. For a more upmarket serving of such critters, visitors can head to the Bug Café for some insect tapas or perhaps a scorpion salad? The café is open from 5pm till late (bugs-cafe.e-monsite.com). Alternatively, try ducking down one of the quieter streets to find more high-end options. The vivid red interiors of Miss Wong, located on “The Lane”, beckon to those looking for an atmospheric cocktail lounge, with a modern drinks list and selection of food (misswong.net). Fine-dining establishments can also be found in the centre of town: The Steakhouse, again just tucked off Pub Street, offers a refined setting with prime cuts of meat and a great wine list. These days adrenaline junkies can find an array of options to satisfy them, from quad biking or horse riding through the countryside, to ultra-light flights over the temples and Tonlé Sap lake. Zip lining through the trees and trekking to little-visited waterfalls are also on the itinerary for the adventurous. Anantara Angkor Resort has recently launched a range of 45 curated activities to help visitors extend their visit beyond the typical 48 hours (angkor.anantara.com). More cultural tastes can also be satisfied. A slew of ecotourism ventures have opened up, helping guests give back to the community while immersing themselves in traditional life. Become a farmer for the day, try your hand in a cooking class or join a homestay and interact with a local family. Ecotourism initiatives have also merged with mainstream to help employ locals and generate profits to give back to the community. Phare, the Cambodian circus, is one such initiative, offering audiences a fireJANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
dancing, acrobatic, aerial flying extravaganza in a modern retelling of classic Cambodian stories. Launched in 2013, it has become one of the hottest nights out in Siem Reap, with nightly performances at 8pm (pharecircus.org). FROM TOP: To satisfy shopping habits, walk across Siem Reap Shinta Mani River to the newer Art Centre Night Market, which is Angkor’s main filled with a mixture of craftwork ranging from textiles to entrance; and inside a paintings. Many of the artworks pay tribute to the temples Bill Bensley of Angkor, along with carved ornaments, lacquerware, designed villa textiles and other trinkets that make for charming souvenirs. For an even more modern take on traditional handicrafts and foodstuffs, head to Kandal Village – a cool, hipster enclave These days adrenaline that wouldn’t be out of place in a major city. Here you’ll find an eclectic junkies can find mishmash of cafés, bars and boutique an array of options shops offering high-quality alternatives to the usual tourist tat. There’s to satisfy their Trunkh, with its collection of highadventurous desires quality goods, souvenirs and knickknacks; Louise Loubatieres featuring lacquerwork, homeware, ceramic vases and textiles; and Saarti’s with an array of gorgeous-smelling ecofriendly candles. The huge array of lovely products and decorations are perfect to take home as keepsakes, but for me, the ultimate souvenir is the unforgettable memory of Angkor Wat at sunrise – a truly amazing experience. businesstraveller.com
BUSINE S S TR AVELLER PAR T NER SHIP
45
Feel right at home Newly renovated Two MacDonnell Road welcomes guests to enjoy a comfortable stay in Hong Kong
T
wo MacDonnell Road is more than an aparthotel: it’s a place to relax, a place to feel tranquil, a place to re-energise, a place with room to think, a place to feel right at home. Our convenient location in the heart of Hong Kong’s upmarket Mid-Levels residential area offers guests the best of both worlds, with fast access to Central CBD and Hong Kong Park and the Zoological and Botanical Gardens next door. This ideal spot offers stunning views encompassing both the cityscape and peaceful green surroundings. All 215 guestrooms and suites are generously sized, ranging from 336sq ft to 750sq ft, and all offer fully equipped kitchenettes with microwave ovens, electric stoves and refrigerators for you to rustle up your favourite dishes at leisure. To truly give our residents the sense of home, we’ve remade the entire eighth
businesstraveller.com
floor as a neighbourhood for our guests, with a large communal living room, lounge and a bar. We welcome guests to use this space to meet up with friends or make new ones, network and mingle, celebrate with family or colleagues, or just bring their laptop and work quietly in well-lit comfort. There’s also a newly-renovated gym and launderette to make your daily life more convenient. Meanwhile, Two MacDonnell Road’s brand new café bar on 8 is an ideal gathering spot for guests and their visitors. Whether it’s a continental breakfast, a convenient “grab & go” bite in the morning, a tempting lunch buffet in our show kitchen, refreshing afternoon tea, or delicious à la carte fare in the evening, there’s something for every palate. The culinary team has created a delectable menu that ranges from international dishes like Margherita pizza and proper English
fish and chips to Asian favourites such as Hainanese chicken rice. In the evening our new bar offers a relaxed yet lively alternative to Lan Kwai Fong. Sports fans can enjoy live broadcasts of major sporting events on our huge 120-inch TV screen with a curated collection of wines, spirits, whiskies, beer and signature cocktails – made all the more enjoyable with our Happy Hour every Monday-Friday from 5:30pm – 8:30pm. With easy connections to both the heart of the city’s financial hub and cultural attractions, plus revamped restful and welcoming accommodation, Two MacDonnell Road is the ideal choice for short- or long-stay travellers looking to mix work and play in a familiar environment. Two MacDonnell Road, 2 MacDonnell Road, Mid-Levels, Hong Kong; +852 2132 2132; www.twomr.com.hk
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
4 HOURS IN...
46
New Orleans
4
WORDS TOM OTLEY A timesensitive tour of the southern US city ’s colourful French Quarter
1
St Louis Cathedral
New Orleans is back on its feet in a big way. Hurricane Katrina struck in 2005, but the following decade saw investment and repairs, and a renewed focus on tourism. The city remains one of the most culturally intriguing and visually arresting places in the US. The streets of the French Quarter have retained a unique blend of influences stemming from its French, Spanish and African roots. The St Louis Cathedral – or the Cathedral-Basilica of Saint Louis, King of France, to give it its full name – is the standout building. The oldest cathedral in the US and the third building on the site, following earlier churches dating back to 1718, it was rebuilt in 1850. It is beautiful both inside and out, with the galleried interior featuring Rococo decoration. The cathedral is flanked by the Cabildo and the Presbytère, which now form part of the Louisiana State Museum. stlouiscathedral.org, louisianastatemuseum.org
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
2
Jackson Square
St Louis Cathedral stands on Jackson Square, the highest ground above the river (even during Katrina it didn’t flood, although it suffered damage from the winds and power cuts). Under first the Spanish and then the French armies, it was called the Place d’Armes/Plaza de Armas, as well as being a parade ground where criminals – and slaves – were executed. Additional controversy comes because of its name and the equestrian statue of Confederate General Jackson, a slave owner. Elegant iron railings surround the square, and the Pontalba Buildings on either side house lovely boutiques and tourist shops dating back to the 1850s. They were built by Micaela Almonester, Baroness de Pontalba, who had a life story so unbelievable you’ll need a guide to recount it. You can wander around with a travel book or app, but a guide is great for answering questions – we used nosecretstours.com
3
French market
The French market originated as a Native American trading post, and is the reason for New Orleans existing on this site – it’s a good portage between the river and Lake Pontchartrain behind. It was the home of the oldest meat market in the US, and then a fresh food market, before being turned into a place for tourist boutiques, restaurants and cafés. If you like jazz, walk along to Frenchman Street and visit the Louisiana Music Factory record shop (number 421) and clubs such as Bamboula’s (516), Maison (508), DBA’s (618) and the Spotted Cat Music Club (623). frenchmarket. org, louisianamusicfactory.com
4
The Mississippi
You may have encountered the Mississippi elsewhere in the US – after all, it is more than 3,200km long and passes through ten states – but businesstraveller.com
3
1
it’s here that it is at its mightiest. Whether ogling the huge cruise ships or the barges crawling along the river, this is the Big Muddy as it enters its final miles before the Gulf of Mexico, and the reason (along with Lake Pontchartrain) that the Native Americans had their trading post here. You get a great view from the bank by the French Market right over to Algiers Point. The river is 60 metres deep at this spot, and it’s definitely not a place for swimming, although you can go down to the riverbank and relax in hot weather.
5
Royal Street
Less well known than the bars of Bourbon Street is the infinitely more lovely Royal Street. Here, you’ll find restaurants, art galleries, antique shops and beautiful architecture, beginning at Canal Street and running through the French Quarter businesstraveller.com
across to the Lower Ninth Ward. It’s in the French Quarter part that you’ll spend your time, and while you won’t find bargains, mementoes of your trip are likely to be of better quality and design. You could spend a couple of hours browsing here – check out Windsor Fine Art, the Angela King Gallery, Sutton Galleries and Naghi’s.
6
Antoine’s
Try to make time for a meal at Antoine’s, the oldest French-Creole fine-dining restaurant in the city, with a 176-year-old history – it’s owned and operated by fifthgeneration relatives of founder Antoine Alciatore. There are 14 dining rooms, each of which has its own history. Ask to see the Rex Room, with its walls adorned with photos of royalty and Mardi Gras memorabilia. 713 St Louis Street; tel +1 504 581 4422; antoines.com BT
5
47
6 NEW ORLEANS
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
48
Health hacks Asia’s city spas are your secret weapon when it comes to wellbeing
WORDS C ATHARINE NICOL
49
D
50
isconnecting from everyday pressures gives you time to reboot. Physically, your body lets go of chronic tension, initiating a mini-detox and essential self-healing. Mentally, your brain de-stresses, and this psychological space can throw up solutions to problems, bring creative ideas to the fore and maximise sleep quality. Relaxing is good for your heart and immune system, memory and decision-making, mood and weight loss. However, like all valuable skills, relaxing needs to be practised, and when you’re on the road, spas are your secret weapon. Book in for a little – or a lot of – guided relaxation targeted to your specific needs, and ideally learn some new habits to take home.
PREVIOUS PAGE: Mandarin Oriental Shanghai Pudong, luxury spa suite CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PAGE: Cordis Hong Kong’s traditional Chinese medicineinspired Chuan Spa; Waldorf Astoria Shanghai; Panpuri Organic Spa at Park Hyatt Bangkok
UNWIND IN BANGKOK The city’s most anticipated hotel opening of 2017, the flawlessly stylish Park Hyatt Bangkok includes the calming and already award-winning Panpuri Spa. Start disconnecting from the day’s stress in the whirlpools, crystal steam and laconium sauna. Then try the mini Gentlemen’s Retreat comprising a delicious skinstimulating body scrub, muscle de-knotting massage and blissfully relaxing facial, a trifecta of healing that leaves you feeling simply good. TIP: Hydrotherapy helps lower the blood pressure and calm the mind. bangkok.park.hyatt.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
Across the Chao Phraya River, the leafy green Anantara Riverside Bangkok feels like a resort, and to accompany the laid-back atmosphere offers one-, threeor five-day Balance Wellness programmes, combining mind-body classes, spa treatments and healthy food. Start your day with yoga and meditation overlooking the river, followed by a day of juices, beautifully prepared wellness meals and spa treatments, finishing with a healthy dinner and goodnight foot massage. Longer programmes also include a “before and after” consultation to set goals and measure benefits. TIP: Meditation trains the brain to quieten, resulting in increased productivity. bangkok-riverside.anantara.com DETOX IN HONG KONG In the heart of Mongkok, the Cordis Hong Kong combines fitness, pool time and hydrotherapy with your spa visit. Earn your spa indulgence in the gym or doing laps in the rooftop pool, before continuing the detoxing process with the Chuan Tao of Detox. From movement to enforced stillness and silence, don’t fight the downtime while you’re cocooned in a warm wrap – instead let your thoughts ebb and drift. The following back, neck and shoulder massage targets typical tensions, and the facial refreshes skin and mind for an all-over rejuvenation. TIP: Exercise and stillness activate feel-good endorphins and detox the brain. cordishotels.com/hongkong businesstraveller.com
SPA S
prepares the body for a deep slumber. The blissfully unhurried two-hour massage uses soothing Swedish and neuromuscular techniques, enhanced by a calming oil blend of vetivert and camomile. Give in to the gentle strokes and aromatherapy and for best results, book your treatment for just before bedtime. TIP: Relaxing downtime before bed improves the quality of your sleep. fullertonhotels.com For some real time out, the ESPA at Resorts World Sentosa tempts you onto Singapore’s holiday island for its day-long De-Stress programmes, combining fitness, nutritious meals and juice shots. Peppered with sleep-inducing treats, stay at the Beach Villas and check in for your lifestyle and skin analysis consultations before embarking on your two treatments a day, like the cleansing, calming hammam ritual and stress-relieving scalp and shoulder massage. You’ll be given a sleeppromoting aromatherapy blend and unlimited time in the Sleep Zone too. TIP: A few drops of lavender essential oil on your pillow helps nudge you into sleep. rwsentosa.com
Relaxing is good for your heart, immune system, memory, mood and decision-making. However, like all valuable skills, relaxing needs to be practised
JET LAG RECOVERY IN SHANGHAI At the Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund, even if you arrive mentally stressed and jet lagged, you can’t help but feel rejuvenated after its Reconnect Ritual. This starts with your body being cosseted in a warm wrap, literally hugging you with TLC healing. Next is one of the most mentally relaxing treatments around: Shirodhara is the pouring of warm oil on the “third eye” and feels like it is actually massaging your brain.
With a bit more time, head out of the city into the verdant New Territories to find Fivelements Hong Kong at the Hong Kong Golf & Tennis Academy. The Balinese-themed spa offers half- or day-long programmes. The four-hour Detox Rejuvenation works on internal organ and digestive cleansing via a Dan Tien abdominal massage, a powerful experience if you’ve never had one before. It’s followed by the Black Diamond Detox combo of body exfoliation with toxin-absorbing, mineral-rich carbonised black bamboo powder, as well as a massage. Feeling squeaky clean you’ll then get a taster of the spa’s phenomenal living cuisine as a lunch or post-treatment dinner. TIP: A body scrub is an easy way to feel cleansed from head to toe. hk.fivelements.org SLEEP IN SINGAPORE We all know how important sleep is to a quality waking life. At The Fullerton Spa, within the stunning neoclassical Fullerton Hotel Singapore, the Sleep Deeply treatment coaxes the mind to switch off and businesstraveller.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
51
52
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
businesstraveller.com
SPA S
Finally, the Hydro Quench Facial breathes life into your complexion. You’re pretty much guaranteed to nod off during one or all of these treatments. TIP: Short naps boost your performance and mood without impacting sleep. waldorfastoria3.hilton.com Meanwhile, the Mandarin Oriental Pudong’s Ban Ri Xian Half Day Reviver combines a body composition analysis (it’s always motivating to know where you stand on the wellness scale), with a tough love PT session that takes into account your current state of wellbeing and offers a tailor-made workout. The recovery massage and hydrating facial are the sweet treats, and the combo creates an ideal way to shake off jet lag. TIP: Exercising can help beat time-zone tiredness and reset your clock. mandarinoriental.com/shanghai DE-STRESS IN KUALA LUMPUR Relinquishing your phone for some spa time may have you sweating (in a bad way) to begin with, but ultimately it will be refreshing. At the Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur, the Digital Detox Retreat gently relieves you of your gadgets, before a scrub and massage focuses on your head, neck and shoulder muscles while your brain clears. It will then be in a receptive state for the mindfulness activities that follow, such as journaling, doodling or colouring. It may sound childish but don’t knock it till you’ve tried it. TIP: An enjoyable, creative pastime with no pressure or deadline releases stress. mandarinoriental.com/kualalumpur A short drive out of the city, The Chateau Spa & Organic Wellness Resort offers a Stress Relief programme that ranges from two to seven nights. The five-night version includes stress management counselling, while the seven-night programme adds horseback riding. Add La Santé Spa treatments, such as businesstraveller.com
Exercising can help beat time-zone tiredness and reset your clock, while the power of touch is proven to decrease stress and promote wellbeing 53
the de-stressing seaweed peat ritual herbal baths and salt grotto mud treatments, plus classes in yoga, breathing, chanting, meditation and yoga nidra (yogic sleep) to accompany your stay. TIP: Slowing your breathing can minimise stress in seconds. thechateau.com.my
CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE BOTTOM: Resorts World Sentosa’s ESPA; Le Chateau Malaysia The Chateau Salt Pool; Fairmont Makati Manila Willow Stream reception; Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur luxury spa treatment room
ALL OF THE ABOVE IN MANILA At the Fairmont Makati’s Willow Stream Spa the Executive Retreat is a two-hour soothing massage that encourages a quick nap and relaxes tension held in the upper and lower back. The therapist will use hot compresses aiding detoxification, and stretches to exercise the body and increase flexibility. Using sampaguita oil for a natural uplifting effect, stress will diminish while energy levels will be boosted. TIP: The power of touch is proven to decrease stress and promote wellbeing. fairmont.com/makati Take a drive out of the city to The Farm at San Benito, where its Wellness Experience programme harnesses nutrition and hydration, exercise and sleep, detoxification and relaxation for graceful ageing. Tailormade for your specific needs and for as many nights as you have time for, consultations and lab diagnostics point to the best combination of medical techniques, natural therapies, exercise and diet. TIP: Wellness leads to quality of life, vitality, contentment and happiness. thefarmatsanbenito.com JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
CHARITY
54
Get ready to
PLACE YOUR BIDS Our annual charity auction ends in January – don't miss out on the chance to win great prizes
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
AS BUSINESS TRAVELLER ASIA-PACIFIC enters its 12th year of association with the Chi Heng Foundation (CHF), we are proud that our efforts, and those of our many partners in the hotel and airline industries, are making a real difference to the lives of so many young people in China. At the same time, we are humbled by the hard work and dedication of CHF’s staff and volunteers, who deserve our greatest respect and admiration. Over the past 15 years, CHF has fulfilled a longrunning commitment to provide educational sponsorship and psychosocial support to AIDS-impacted children in China, from primary school through to university. In spite of the large number of students spread over a vast geographic area, Chi Heng doesn’t use intermediaries, preferring to disburse funds for the children directly through its own staff and volunteers. This pragmatic approach has ensured quality and continuity within the programme. As of July 2017, CHF had cumulatively sponsored more than 20,000 students from AIDS-affected families, and more than 1,700 have graduated from universities since 2002. CHF is the largest and longest running nongovernmental operation in China providing comprehensive assistance to AIDS-impacted children. In addition to formal education, CHF also supports vocational training and runs psychosocial programmes for the children. Experience has shown that this has a strong and positive impact on children’s academic performance and mental health. CHF’s psychosocial programmes include home visits, art counselling, summer camps, memory book projects and other school-based activities. In spite of the challenges, CHF has built more than 25 reading rooms in China this year, 16 of which were built with the support of Business Traveller. As well as providing much-needed reading materials, these reading rooms also serve as a meeting point and location for staff and volunteers to provide extracurricular activities and companionship to children in diverse areas of rural China. Continuous funding of these and other meaningful programmes, along with educational support, is critical in alleviating the suffering of thousands of innocent children, and providing the chance of a bright future for all. businesstraveller.com
PHA SE 3 PACK AGE (JANUAR Y 2018)
AIRLINE ȏ C-01 Cathay Pacific and
Cathay Dragon 2 round-trip business class tickets from Beijing to Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific and Cathay Dragon Package worth: US$2,850 Minimum bid: US$855 ȏ C-02 Delta Air Lines 2 return Delta One™ (G/Z Class) tickets between Asia and the US Package worth: US$11,240 Minimum bid: US$1,000
HOTEL CHINA ȏ C-03 Beijing: Beijing
Sandalwood Marriott Executive Apartments 3 nights’ stay in a One-Bedroom Apartment Package worth: US$576 Minimum bid: US$170 ȏ C-04 Beijing: Fraser Suites
Beijing 3 nights’ stay in a One-Bedroom Apartment Package worth: US$969 Minimum bid: US$290 ȏ C-05 Beijing: Grand Hyatt
Beijing 3 nights’ stay in a Club Suite Package worth: US$1,500 Minimum bid: US$450 ȏ C-06 Beijing: NUO Hotel
Beijing 3 nights’ stay in a Park View Studio Package worth: US$1,530 Minimum bid: US$460
ȏ C-09 Chengdu: Ascott Raffles
City Chengdu 2 nights’ stay in a One-Bed Deluxe Room Package worth: US$340 Minimum bid: US$100 ȏ C-10 Hainan Sanya: The
St. Regis Sanya Yalong Bay Resort 3 nights’ stay in a Deluxe Garden View Room Package worth: US$683 Minimum bid: US$205
Beijing 2 nights’ stay in a Deluxe Room Package worth: US$820 Minimum bid: US$245
Executive Suites Shanghai managed by Kempinski 2 nights’ stay in a Comfort Studio Package worth: US$370 Minimum bid: US$110 ȏ C-18 Shanghai: The Ritz-
Carlton Pudong 2 nights’ stay in a Bund View Suite Package worth: US$1,500 Minimum bid: US$450
ȏ C-11 Lijiang: Pullman Lijiang
Resort & Spa 3 nights’ stay in a One-Bedroom Deluxe Villa Package worth: US$2,015 Minimum bid: US$600
The Bund 3 nights’ stay in a Fabulous Room with Bund View Package worth: US$2,000 Minimum bid: US$600 ȏ C-20 Suzhou: Oakwood Hotel
ȏ C-12 Nanjing: Fraser Suites
Nanjing 3 nights’ stay in a One-Bedroom Suite Package worth: US$1,200 Minimum bid: US$360 ȏ C-13 Shanghai: Grand
Kempinski Hotel Shanghai 3 nights’ stay in a Deluxe Bund View Room Package worth: US$1,533 Minimum bid: US$460 ȏ C-14 Shanghai: New World
Shanghai Hotel 3 nights’ weekend stay in a Residence Club Deluxe Room Package worth: US$1,225 Minimum bid: US$365 ȏ C-15 Shanghai: Park Hyatt 3 nights’ stay in a Bund View King Room Package worth: US$2,040 Minimum bid: US$610
& Residence Suzhou 2 nights’ stay in a One-Bedroom Apartment Package worth: US$994 Minimum bid: US$300 ȏ C-21 Xian: The Westin Xian 3 nights’ stay in a Westin Deluxe Room Package worth: US$642 Minimum bid: US$190
HONG KONG ȏ C-22 Cosmo Hotel Hong Kong 1 night’s stay in an Executive Room Package worth: US$480 Minimum bid: US$145
Beijing, Financial Street 3 nights’ stay in a Deluxe Room Package worth: US$3,188 Minimum bid: US$900 businesstraveller.com
Hotel Shanghai Hong Quan 2 nights’ stay in an Executive Suite Package worth: US$800 Minimum bid: US$240
a Niccolo Hotel 3 nights’ stay in a Grand Room Package worth: US$2,690 Minimum bid: US$800 ȏ C-27 The Peninsula Hong Kong 2 nights’ stay in a Deluxe Room Package worth: US$1,870 Minimum bid: US$560
INDONESIA ȏ C-28 Bali: Citadines Kuta 1 night’s stay in a Studio Room Package worth: US$85 Minimum bid: US$25 ȏ C-29 Bali: Swiss-Belhotel Watu
Jimbar Sanur Bali 2 nights’ stay in a Deluxe Room Package worth: US$192 Minimum bid: US$58
MAL AYSIA ȏ C-30 Labuan: Dorsett Grand
Labuan 2 nights’ weekend stay in a Deluxe Room Package worth: US$190 Minimum bid: US$57
SINGAPORE ȏ C-31 Park Regis Singapore 3 nights’ weekend stay in a Park Room Package worth: US$1,330 Minimum bid: US$400
THAIL AND ȏ C-32 Bangkok: Somerset
ȏ C-23 Hotel Pravo 2 nights’ stay in a Deluxe Suite Package worth: US$830 Minimum bid: US$250 ȏ C-24 Park Hotel Hong Kong 3 nights’ stay in a Premier Room Package worth: US$1,688 Minimum bid: US$505
ȏ C-16 Shanghai: Radisson Blu ȏ C-08 Beijing: The Ritz-Carlton
ȏ C-26 The Murray, Hong Kong,
Beach Bali ȏ C-19 Shanghai: W Shanghai –
Shanghai ȏ C-07 Beijing: The Peninsula
ȏ C-17 Shanghai: The One
Ekamai Bangkok 3 nights’ stay in a One-Bedroom Executive Serviced Residence Package worth: US$570 Minimum bid: US$170
VIE TNAM ȏ C-33 Ho Chi Minh City:
Le Meridien Saigon ȏ C-25 Somerset Victoria Park
Hong Kong 2 nights’ stay in a Studio Room Package worth: US$578 Minimum bid: US$170
3 nights’ stay in a Club Deluxe Package worth: US$1,204 Minimum bid: US$360
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
55
A feast for the eyes
Abu Dhabi serves up an enviable selection of fine restaurants with splendid views of the Arabian Gulf and city skyline
WORDS SAMANTHA WOOD
56
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
businesstraveller.com
DINING
T
he UAE’s capital lies on a T-shaped island jutting into the Arabian Gulf, with hundreds of smaller islands dotted across the seascape. Such a setting makes for some stunning backdrops, in particular when the sun goes down – from marina and canal to sea and rooftop vistas. Here are eight of Abu Dhabi’s best restaurants with a view.
INAKAYA The capital’s Venetian Village, part of the sprawling RitzCarlton complex, mimics a charming neighbourhood with Renaissance-style buildings. Restaurants dot the courtyard, one of which is the Japanese transplant from Japan and New York, Inakaya. Its quaint terrace offers uninterrupted vistas of the canal and the rippling waters. Round the corner you can catch a glimpse of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in all its glory, a stunning architectural masterpiece that rivals the Taj Mahal. Dining at Inakaya is interactive theatre. The focus is on robatayaki – the Japanese art of grilling, which is as much about performance as it is about cooking style – as well as sushi and sashimi rolled and sliced by the chefs mastering their knife skills. Open daily 12.30pm-11pm; three courses Dhs260 (US$71); Venetian Village, Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi Grand Canal; tel +971 2404 1921; venetianvillage.ae/inakaya RAY’S GRILL The 360-degree wraparound views of Abu Dhabi and the Arabian Gulf ensure this contemporary steakhouse on the 63rd floor of Jumeirah at Etihad Towers is a prime lunch and dinner bucket list venue. At night, the city’s businesstraveller.com
57
CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PAGE TOP: Ray’s Grill panorama; Inakaya chefs and one of their robatayaki dishes (left)
twinkling lights make a mesmerising accompaniment to the steak cuts. The meat is sourced from around the world – from Argentina and Australia to New Zealand, France and the US, with all cuts dry-aged for 28 days and chargrilled. As well as the steak, a top menu pick is the beef tartare prepared tableside. Open 7pm-11pm daily; three courses Dhs400 (US$109); Jumeirah at Etihad Towers; tel +971 2811 5666; jumeirah.com JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Sambusek; Cipriani; Butcher and Still; Coya; and Catch
58
SAMBUSEK Diners can enjoy the outdoor terrace of this popular Lebanese restaurant during Abu Dhabi’s cooler months, overlooking the Al Maryah waterfront and city skyline. Located in the Rosewood hotel, it is a pristine, elegant space for a quiet lunch, but transforms itself into an upbeat restaurant frequented by Lebanese socialites in the evening. As its name suggests (sambusek is a mini Lebanese savoury pastry), the food is traditional, with the kitchen helmed by a Lebanese chef. Aside from a business lunch menu, dinner service offers a choice of four set menus, plus à la carte. Visit with an empty stomach. Open 12pm-3.30pm, 7pm-12.30am daily; three courses Dhs270 (US$74); Rosewood Abu Dhabi; tel +971 2813 5550; rosewoodhotels.com CATCH As the name implies, this restaurant overlooking Abu Dhabi’s main white sandy beach and turquoise waters is all about seafood. Mother-ofpearl inspiration embodies the UAE’s age-old diving tradition, and enhances a modern interior with a glass-encased open kitchen and a patio. Dishes are Middle Eastern with an Asian twist. Apart from typical fish and seafood dishes, the selection also includes sushi, sashimi, JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
caviar and oysters – with plenty of meat options for carnivores, too. The jumbo crab tartare with a yellow tomato-and-lime dressing balances texture with flavour. Open 12pm-1am daily; three courses Dhs320 (US$87); Nation Riviera Beach Club, Abu Dhabi Corniche (opposite the St Regis); tel +971 2611 0909; catch.ae CIPRIANI This Italian institution is the restaurant to pick for a view of the Formula One Grand Prix racetrack from its circular terrace and window tables. The lively boat-themed eatery is perched on Yas Island’s marina, and serves the traditional dishes Cipriani is known for worldwide – from baked tagliolini and risotto primavera to carpaccio alla Cipriani and eggplant alla Parmigiana. Save room for the vanilla meringue – and don’t forget to start your meal with a Bellini aperitif made with fresh peach purée and prosecco, à la Harry’s Bar. Open 6pm-12am daily; three courses Dhs450 (US$123); Yas Marina, Yas Island; tel +971 2657 5400; ciprianiyasisland.com BUTCHER AND STILL Abu Dhabi’s latest steakhouse, on Al Maryah Island in the Four Seasons hotel, boasts a retractable wall that opens up to a patio and a panoramic view across the water to the glittering-by-night Corniche skyline. This 1920s Chicago-themed restaurant echoes the era of Al Capone, complete with bullet casings. The steaks and chops are all USDA natural Black Angus, sustainably sourced from a Kansas farm. Try the 1.2kg Tomahawk ribeye, easily shared between two people, if not more. A pre- or post-dinner cocktail in the buzzing bar is mandatory, if only to have the bartender knock up a martini in a human-sized “Tanqueray No 10 Imperial Martini Shaker”, one of only five in the world. A lift descends two floors to a private dining room reminiscent of a speakeasy, which features a vintage whisky collection. Open daily 6pm-12am; three courses Dhs500 (US$136); Four Seasons Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island; tel +971 2333 2222; butcherandstill.com businesstraveller.com
DINING
COYA The contemporary Peruvian restaurant with two locations in London, plus another in Dubai, opened in March last year on Al Maryah Island. Whether opting for a terrace or window table, the views across the capital’s skyline are breathtaking, in particular at night. The Incan-designed dining room and separate pisco lounge with a Latino band encourages guests to take to the dance floor – all adding to Coya’s vibrancy. The food mimics the ambience, with dishes oozing punchy flavour and playful presentation, ranging from delicious ceviches, tiraditos (raw seafood in a spicy sauce) and tacos to anticucho skewers and cazuela iron pot dishes. Open daily 12.30pm-5pm, 7pm-12am; three courses Dhs300 (US$82); The Galleria, Al Maryah Island; tel +971 2306 7000; coyarestaurant.com ASIA DE CUBA Sitting next to Catch in the same beach club is London and New York concept Asia de Cuba. The view across the Arabian Gulf may be similar, but the terrace is much more expansive with a cocktail bar, beach deck and cabanas where diners can choose to eat. The flavours and cooking techniques developed by the Cuban-born global corporate chef marry Asian with Latino. Ceviche, small plates, salads, signature wok dishes and main courses make up an intriguing à la carte menu. View aside, the shrimp churros and Cuban chicken bao buns are worth a visit alone. Open daily 6pm-12am, plus 12pm-3pm Fri-Sat; three courses Dhs270 (US$74); Nation Riviera Beach Club; tel +971 2699 3333; asiadecuba.com/abu_dhabi Samantha Wood is founder of restaurant review website foodiva.net businesstraveller.com
NEW OPENINGS Abu Dhabi has several new openings to add to its already fine collection, all with a view: 59
CHO GAO (pictured) at Intercontinental Abu Dhabi’s Marina Walk opened in summer 2017, serving pan-Asian cuisine from Indonesia, Japan, Vietnam and Thailand. TORO TORO, chef Richard Sandoval’s Latin American concept (also present in Dubai) opened in September at Jumeirah at Etihad Towers. October saw two very different openings at Al Maryah Island: casual sushi concept 99 SUSHI BAR and acclaimed French-Mediterranean restaurant LA PETITE MAISON. Finally, the first ever BUDDHA BAR BEACH is due to open soon at the St Regis Saadiyat Island, offering pan-Asian cuisine in a beach club setting. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
60
GET CREATIVE h
nal r an aspiring creator, e all nne r of devices to help you mak music, pictures and videos make
WORDS STEVE DINNEEN JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
businesstraveller.com
TECHNOLOGY
I
f you’re in the creative industries, travelling can severely eat into your working day. A long-haul flight might be an acceptable mobile office for an accountant or lawyer, but a musician or illustrator may struggle to make any serious progress. The latest creative gadgets, however, offer a range of solutions. Increased processing power has made
intensive tasks such as video editing feasible on devices that would have seemed impossibly small a few years ago, and what would once have required an entire desktop studio can now fit into your carry-on luggage. The proliferation of smartphones means we now carry powerful computers around in our pockets, which open up all kinds of possibilities for controlling devices such as complex musical instruments that would
once have required a PC to work. Plug a pair of headphones into the Roli Lightpad, for instance, and you can start creating your next electro hit single from the comfort of the first class lounge. Whether you want to create beautiful photographs, crisp 4K video, sweet music or wonderful illustrations, the perfect gadget is out there for you – below and on the following pages are some of the best.
61
BEST FOR… TRAVEL SNAPS
BEST FOR… IPHONE SHOTS
BEST FOR… INSTANT GRATIFICATION
LEICA Q TITANIUM GREY US$4,495 en.leica-camera.com This pocket-sized compact camera is a great way of taking professional-quality photographs without having to carry an entire suitcase worth of gear. It has the fastest lens in its class and a full-frame sensor, making it great at shooting in low light; useful if you don’t have space for a bulky flash unit. This new version is the same as the hugely popular Leica Q but comes with a classy titanium grey lacquer finish, with a matching strap made from climbing rope. When it comes to taking incredible photos and looking great while you’re doing it, Leica is in a class of its own – in the right hands, it’s worth every penny.
EXOLENS PRO WITH OPTICS BY ZEISS TELEPHOTO LENS US$249 zeiss.com The iPhone is already capable of taking great pictures, but this is the device if you’re determined to boost your phone photography game. The clip-on lens essentially turns your phone into a telephoto lens, allowing you to take crisp pictures from a distance. Many iPhone camera accessories are little more than gimmicks, but the involvement of Zeiss, which has been making lenses for more than 170 years, suggests otherwise, and the results you can achieve with it are impressive. It’s built especially for the iPhone so won’t work with Android, and is compatible with the iPhone 7 Plus.
FUJIFILM INSTAX MINI 90 US$179.99 fujifilm.com This beautiful little camera (it’s only 11.3cm x 9.2cm x 5.7cm) is a brilliant option for those who love the retro aesthetic of instant photography. It has a built-in flash, a rechargeable battery and a host of shooting modes, including double exposure. It also gives you more control over your pictures than most instant cameras, with the ability to control the length of exposure to create effects such as light-streaks. It uses narrow, portraitoriented film rather than the square film made famous by Polaroid instant cameras, but it’s still a great way to capture memories from your trips abroad.
businesstraveller.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
MUSIC
BEST FOR… MAKING MUSIC ROLI LIGHTPAD BLOCK US$179.95 roli.com The Block needs to be seen to be believed. In the hands of a keen musician, it can be used to lay down entire electronic tracks using an in-built drum machine and more than 100 individual sounds. The tactile silicone rubber surface is sensitive to how hard you press it – a harder jab equals a louder noise. Connecting to the Noise app on your iPhone (there’s a beta version on Google Play) allows you to switch the Block into its various sound modes and to change the softly glowing colours so you know which parts of the surface will play what sound. At 9.4cm x 9.4cm, it’s small enough to fit in your pocket, and you can snap multiple Blocks together to create a mobile studio.
62
BEST FOR… LAYING BACKING TRACKS
BEST FOR… TUNES AND PODCASTS
ZOOM ARQ AERO RHYTHMTRAK US$749.99 zoom-na.com If you want to make beautiful sound on the go, give the Zoom Arq a shake. The instrument, which looks a bit like a tambourine, has 96 velocity and pressure-sensitive pads that allow you to play various drum sounds, as well as put on a programmable light display. It’s part drum machine, part looper and reacts in real time to your movements, distorting the sound and triggering new sections of your music. It is composed of two parts – the Base Station, which contains 468 instrument sounds and 70 synthesizer sounds, and the Ring Controller, which you “play” by moving it around (it connects to the Base Station via Bluetooth).
1MORE H1707 TRIPLE DRIVER OVER-EAR HEADPHONES US$265 uk.1more.com Launched this summer, the H1707 headphones from British audio manufacturer 1More promise a “high-fidelity listening experience”. With a Piezo ceramic driver and bass reflex system, they have been approved by Grammy award-winning sound engineer Luca Bignardi. They are built from machined metal in eye-catching black and bronze, and come with an oxygen-free copper cable that you can plug into your laptop, phone or in-flight entertainment system. The cushioned ear pads mean they are comfortable to wear for extended periods and can fold inwards for easy packing. A storage bag is provided.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
businesstraveller.com
TECHNOLOGY
BEST FOR… ACTION SHOOTING
BEST FOR… EDITING
BEST FOR… VR-READY VIDEO
GOPRO HERO 5 BLACK US$375 shop.gopro.com The world of home video has come a long way. This tiny device – far smaller than your average compact camera – can shoot 4K video and high-resolution stills and can even react to voice commands. With an additional GoPro Plus subscription (US$4.99 per month), you can upload your videos and pictures directly to the cloud so you never need to worry about losing your work. Not that you’re likely to break this thing – like all GoPros, it’s designed to last, and is completely waterproof. The two-inch display also allows you to edit your clips on the go.
MACBOOK PRO 13-INCH FROM US$1,279 apple.com Apple remains the laptop maker of choice for those in the creative industries, and the new version moves it even further ahead of the pack. The latest release features the excellent Touch Bar, a second colour display that runs above the keyboard in place of the F keys (only available in this and higher versions). This can be customised to do just about anything, and it’s a godsend for video editors, allowing them to scroll effortlessly through footage with the swipe of a finger. It’s also a dream to use, with a retina display that’s great for both making and watching video.
NIKON KEYMISSION 360 US$499.95 nikon.com With virtual reality becoming increasingly common, the ability to shoot 360-degree video is slowly moving from a niche pursuit to the mainstream. The Nikon KeyMission 360 is a great starting point. The hand-held unit consists of two ultra wide-angle lenses, one on each side, allowing it to capture the entire field of view. The film can then be watched back on a VR headset or on a desktop PC, and directed around by moving the camera with a mouse or trackpad. If you’re into extreme sports, this is especially good for capturing the panoramic glory of skydives or ski runs.
ART businesstraveller.com
BEST FOR… DRAWING WACOM MOBILE STUDIO PRO 13 US$2,499.95 wacom.com This is the pro choice for drawing on the go, and it now comes in a carry-on friendly 13-inch version. Able to run top-end creative software including Photoshop and Adobe Premier, it’s an illustrator’s dream gadget, meaning you’ll be able to work on commissions at 35,000ft. The display is excellent and it has virtually no lag when drawing. It has an eight-megapixel rear-facing and five-megapixel front-facing camera. And while the plastic chassis won’t win any design awards, it’s robust enough to survive being chucked in a bag. The box includes the industry-leading Wacom Pro Pen 2 stylus, which boasts 8,192 pressure sensitivity levels. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
63
OPINION
Taken to the cleaners Derek Picot suggests that hoteliers could charge more for washing our dirty laundry in public DEREK PICOT A HOTELIER FOR MORE THAN 30 YE ARS A N D A U T H O R O F H O T E L R E S E R VAT I O N S
W
64
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
those of you wondering where the logic is I agree the price has no relation to the cost, behind my theory, there isn’t any. But it but as a hotelier it’s not bad money if you takes less time to calculate prices this way can get it, and if your clientele are rich than ringing around ten hotels, like the enough to wear silk. hotel valet does. Surely there is some goodwill that This sets the challenge as to how elastic considerate hoteliers might give to offset the (pun intended) the price of laundering swizz of high laundry pricing? Generosity underwear can be. I recently had the could come in the offer of free pressing to opportunity to test out my theory, by those who pay premium room rates. Book a adding £1 (stepping it up once a month) to quality room, and you can get your suit and selected items on a hotel’s laundry list. After two shirts pressed for free. This makes sense six months demand had neither increased to the business traveller who arrives “relaxed nor decreased. Demand for laundering casual”, but who has usually packed a suit underwear was found to and shirt, and wants to look be inelastic (as, by the pristine the next morning. This sets the way, were all the other With the advent of guest challenge as to laundry items listed). bill analysis, hotel chains Consideration then has have been able to take a how elastic the to be given to pressing much closer look at guest price of laundering and dry-cleaning. spending and link this underwear can be This is something that to guest history. When most hotels can do a reservation comes in themselves, as both of from a regular client, their these operations take up much less space. preferences can be noted The latter has presented hoteliers in advance. So if you use the with some challenges, as old laundry service frequently machines in the basement expect a knock on the door soon of hotels are being phased after you arrive. The opportunity out by 2020, and generally to return home with all of your they now should be vented shirts, underwear and socks cleaned at ground level. But if these and placed in cellophane wrappers might requirements can be overcome, the pricing be a big temptation, even though it doesn’t opportunity is even greater, as the material make economic sense to make a habit of cost is less than laundry, and the time taken this. Still, for some lucky business travellers, to deliver clean or pressed items diminished. they’re not actually paying – their company I have another theory with regards to is. And this may explain why some single pricing, and that is dry-cleaning should businessmen pack their dirty laundry to go be charged at a 10 per cent premium to on a trip – it’s a whole lot easier to put it laundry. In this way, a shirt that is dryon the company tab than it is to sort it out cleaned is just over £25 (US$33.5) a shot. themselves when they get home. BT businesstraveller.com
ILLUSTRATION: BENJAMIN SOUTHAN
hy is guest laundry so expensive in hotels across the world? I talked to a hotel valet the other day and asked how they price their laundry lists. He explained that at his hotel, once a year they phoned around their competitor hotels and did a price comparison to their own guest laundry list. Then they aligned the prices, added 50p (US$0.6) to each item and sent the list off for printing. Using this method, at least they knew if they were being competitive – but I wondered if it was really an appropriate pricing method. It might be suitable for a supermarket where customers are aware of commodity prices in their neighbourhood, but do hotel guests ring around to compare the price of laundered socks? In Europe and the US most hotels have an outside contractor to look after guest laundry, while in Asia the majority of work is undertaken in-house. Where an outside contractor is used, the general method is for the hotel to add a percentage to its contracted price, and simply take the premium as profit. But for the shrewder hotelier, this may not be entirely satisfactory. Surely the way forward is to understand the real cost of providing a laundry service, minimise it, and then add as much profit as you can possibly get away with? I have a theory that the cost of laundering a shirt should be set at a quarter of the cost of buying a new one. In London I am assuming that a smart business shirt costs between £70 (US$94) and £120 (US$161), so the laundry charge should be £23.75 (US$32), taking the mean average. It’s expensive, but not quite out of reach. For
OPINION
First class has changed… but so have we Jeff Mills looks back to the days when flying in the premium cabin was an event in itself JEFF MILLS T R AV E L E D I T O R A N D W R I T E R F O R A R A N G E O F L E A D I N G B R I T I S H N E W S PA P E R S
66
M
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
in uniforms that could easily have passed There were magnificent desserts and muster on board one of the cruise liners of exotic fruits, fine wines flowed, there was the time, the Queen Elizabeth or the Queen vintage port or barrel-aged brandy with the Mary perhaps. The 747 was, after all, the cheese trolley and then, of course, you could airborne equivalent of a great ship. settle back in your seat with a post-lunch There was a glass of champagne and some cigarette, though I seem to remember cigartasty canapés before take-off, and perhaps smoking was discouraged in case the aroma a free cigarette or two. And the seats? Well, was a bit too invasive for some passengers. they weren’t fully reclining like those of These days we pay for first class in return today, but what they lacked in recline they for space, privacy and a good sleep, but in made up for in width, those days we paid for... what and they were very exactly? The event, perhaps. Instead of a nap we comfortable. So instead of a nap we went went upstairs to the Lunchtime was an inup the spiral staircase to flight performance in its the lounge area, fitted with lounge area... we were own right. First, one of the seats and its own more social in the days sofa-like crew came along to take bar, and got to know our before social media orders from the impressive fellow premium class flyers in-flight menu as my and some of the crew, who in dining table was set on the those days actually had time pull-down tray, complete with bone china, to chat. We were more social crystal glasses and proper cutlery. The in the days before social media. stewards were now wearing Of course in real terms, starched white jackets with the price of travel has dropped gold-braided epaulettes, for the majority of passengers, while the stewardesses were and that’s a good thing. First class in smart pinafores. is still very expensive, unless you are There were pre-lunch very flexible with your dates, or clever at drinks, starters and aperitifs were served, and redeeming miles. But even today when I’m then the pièce de resistance as the trolley, not lucky enough to fly first, I can’t help looking unlike those once used in the Savoy Grill in back to those early days with nostalgia, London, came through the cabin bearing when each time was an event to be shared the main course. It was wheeled with great with those around you, rather than via a ceremony to your seat, where the chief mobile phone, and the experience was more steward or stewardess would carve the joint than just the seat and whether the plane of meat – having first discussed how you has wifi. I only wish I’d taken a photo. Not would prefer it, rare or medium. something anyone today ever regrets. businesstraveller.com
ILLUSTRATION: BENJAMIN SOUTHAN
y first trip in first class was on a BOAC (British Overseas Airways Corporation) flight in 1973, just before the longhaul airline merged with its shorter-haul stablemate BEA (British European Airways) to form British Airways. It was pure chance, and possibly a spot of overbooking by the airline, that saw me, in those days a young reporter, upgraded from the depths of economy to the heady heights of the premium cabin (no Club World or business class existed at that time). As now, there were separate check-in desks for first class passengers at Heathrow Airport. “Where would you like to sit, sir,” I was asked, “an aisle or window seat?”, and “Would you like to be in the smoking or non-smoking section?” Security in those pre-terrorist-threat days was a breeze and just moments later I was in the first class lounge in Terminal 3 (long before T4 was built), sipping my first gin and tonic of the day and studying my fellow passengers while we waited for the call to board our Boeing 747 to New York. I was wearing a jacket and tie, as was the norm in those days, or I very much doubt I would have been blessed with an upgrade (I never found out why and wouldn’t have dared to ask). But formality was the order of the day for travellers in first class back then. Suits for the men and smart dresses for the women – this was an occasion, after all. Once on board we turned left towards the front of the aircraft to be greeted by crew
the
eport Tried, Tested, Tasted.
TRIED AND TESTED
TRIED AND TESTED
SMART TRAVELLER
PLUS
British Airways B747-400 Club World
Mandarin Oriental Taipei
How to get downtown from Hong Kong airport
Headphones
72
Restaurants
73
68
70
74
businesstraveller.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
67
TRIED AND TESTED FLIGHT
WHAT ’S NEW
British Airways B747-400 Club World LONDON–NEW YORK
The White Company bedding and amenity bags, and the meal service.
WHAT ’S NOT The seat and the aircraft.
PRICE Internet rates for a flexible return Club World ticket from London to New York in February range from £1,840 (US$2,476) to £8,294 (US$11,162).
FLIGHT TIME 7 hours 30 minutes
C ONFIGURATION 2-4-2 / 2-2
BED LENGTH 72in/183cm
B A C K G R O U N D British Airways is rolling
68
out a new service in its Club World (long-haul business class) cabin. This includes changes to the food and drink service, along with new bedding and amenities by The White Company. The upgraded service debuted between London Heathrow and New York JFK, and will progressively be rolled out across the network in 2018. My flight was on a B747-400 configured with the “super-high-J” cabin – that is, 86 business class seats split across the main deck and the upper deck.
B O A R D I N G I was directed to my seat 20A, towards the rear of the middle (main) cabin of the three Club World cabins. This is a rear-facing window seat with uninterrupted access to the aisle. I was asked if I wanted champagne, orange juice or water, my jacket was hung and I was given a bottle of water at the same time as the amenity pack. The White Company amenity bag included a toothbrush and toothpaste, a soft eye mask, ear plugs, some lip balm, moisturiser, plus a balm called Pulse Point that is supposed to help you sleep.
T H E S E A T The new bedding was waiting at my seat, comprising a large pillow, a smaller pillow and a large bag containing the mattress topper, duvet and blanket.
T H E F L I G H T The new drinks service offers a choice of spirits including gins (Gordon’s or Tanqueray). To avoid spillage, the drinks are pre-poured and you are JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
given a single measure (half the normal miniature amount). If you want the entire double measure, you need to ask for it but bear in mind that although the new glasses are lovely, they are not very large, so your drink will be very strong. The flight attendants take your main course order, but you choose starters from a trolley service. The attendants were experienced at this, but it’s a slow system. A tray with bread and water was given to me at around 1330, and it took 20 minutes for the starters to reach me - though there were no drinks with that; wine came through later. Choices included a roasted beef carpaccio with horseradish crème fraîche; smoked red pepper soup with cheese straws; or a tapas selection. I had the carpaccio, which was delicious, and the soup, which I thought was too salty. Mains were then brought to each seat. I enjoyed the tender and tasty braised beef cheeks with aubergine, tomato salsa and pommes au gratin. Other options included salmon or truffled mascarpone tortellini. Desserts included tiramisu, fresh mango with vanilla crème fraîche, or chocolate soufflé. There was also a cheese board, which was fresh and delicious. The wine choices included three champagnes. The whites were a Piedmontese Gavi or a South African sauvignon blanc; the reds were a California pinot noir or a Barossa Valley shiraz. After dining I retrieved The White Company products and reclined my seat, laying out the mattress topper and making
SE AT WIDTH 20.5in/52cm
SE AT RECLINE 180 degrees
CONTACT britishairways.com
The topper enhances the comfort levels, as there is something between you and the seat cushion
use of the blanket, duvet and eye mask. I slept for a couple of hours and found it very comfortable. The topper enhances the comfort levels, as there is something between you and the seat cushion. I woke in time for the afternoon service. I was too full to do this justice, but the selection was much greater than previously, with sandwiches (ham, egg, cheese or smoked salmon) and a dish of prawns, mozzarella and grilled vegetables.
V E R D I C T The Club World changes are a definite improvement in terms of quality and choice. While the trolley service makes the meal more of an event, it also slows things down. The White Company products are also lovely. Tom Otley businesstraveller.com
TRIED AND TESTED FLIGHT
Singapore Airlines B777-200 business SINGAPORE–HONG KONG BEST FOR... Regional short-haul.
PRICE A return business ticket in mid-February starts from S$933 (US$693).
FLIGHT TIME
Thai Smile A320 economy BANGKOK–CHIANG MAI
3 hours 45 minutes
B A C K G R O U N D SIA operates four different aircraft on the seven-timesdaily Singapore–Hong Kong service. The B777-200 is the most frequent, though it’s the oldest regional product.
C ONFIGURATION 2-2-2
CONTACT
B A C K G R O U N D Thai Smile, the wholly owned subsidiary of Thai Airways, aims to fill the gap between full service and low-cost airlines. It was created in 2011, and initially was called Thai Wings. It currently flies to 11 airports in Thailand, plus seven neighbouring countries, including India and Taiwan.
singaporeair.com
C H E C K - I N I checked in online for my
C H E C K - I N We arrived at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport at
1505 scheduled departure on SQ872 but was confronted with an error message at the automated bag drop system and directed to the counter, where I discovered my seat had been changed from 18F to 15F.
1300 for our 1520 departure on Thai Smile flight WE164. We had bags to check, but there was no queue. The checked bag weight maximum was 20kg; 30kg if you fly in the Smile Plus class.
T H E L O U N G E The Silverkris lounge is divided into first and business class sections. It’s large and softly lit, with plenty of seating and an excellent selection of buffet-style food and beverages. A big issue was the dearth of power sockets, though wifi was strong. Showers and large bathrooms are available.
B O A R D I N G I left the lounge at 1420 and headed towards gate A1. Security screening was done at the boarding gate, but it was quick and painless, and I boarded at 1435.
T H E F L I G H T SIA’s regional business class seats are dated – while lie-flat, they don’t recline a full 180 degrees, sockets are not international and there are no USB ports. They do have generous pitch and width, though, and are very comfortable. Departure was delayed and the pilot announced a revised flight time; food wasn’t served until 1615, but it was up to SIA’s usual high standards, as were the IFE offering (large screen and lots to choose from) and noise-cancelling headphones.
A R R I V A L We landed 30 minutes late at 1925, but I was through HK immigration by 1940 and my bag arrived swiftly.
V E R D I C T The B777-200 offers an inferior seat product to SIA’s other aircraft, but the experience is still good, and the lounge, food and service remain outstanding. Craig Bright businesstraveller.com
B O A R D I N G There were two Thai Smile flights boarding at neighbouring gates. The flight to Phuket was called first, then the flight to Chiang Mai. It was well organised, with Gold cardholders being invited to board first, via a bus to the aircraft.
T H E F L I G H T All passengers had pre-assigned seats at no extra cost. However the doors shut and the aircraft was pushed back while people were still putting their luggage away in overhead compartments. Nevertheless, I was very impressed with the service. Unexpectedly, we were given two sandwiches and a bottle of water, and also free soft drinks from a trolley. Considering it was such a short flight and almost full, the flight attendants did this in a very unhurried and BEST FOR... professional manner, with lots of No hidden extra charges. smiles (appropriately enough).
PRICE A R R I V A L We arrived on schedule, and this time had an air bridge into the airport at Chiang Mai. As we were domestic passengers, we had no wait, and after a few minutes our checked bags arrived on the carousel.
THB5,100 (US$157) flexireturn in mid-February.
FLIGHT TIME 50 minutes
CONTACT V E R D I C T Very good and exceptional
thaismileair.com/en
value for money. Tom Otley JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
69
TRIED AND TESTED HOTEL
Mandarin Oriental Taipei BEST FOR… Total luxury, impeccable service and delightful design details everywhere you look.
DON’T MISS… A trip to the Mandarin Cake Shop for treats that look as good as they taste.
B A C K G R O U N D The Mandarin Oriental Taipei opened in 2014, adding a luxury urban retreat to a city predominantly served by upscale business brands.
W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? The grand exterior is inspired by classic European architecture, with a large circular driveway surrounding an ornate fountain (and a steady stream of taxis). The extravagant style continues throughout the property, from the giant 1,400kg butterfly-shaped chandelier in the lobby to the 1,700 pieces of artwork dotted throughout the hotel. As I was booked into a suite, a staff member escorted me to my room for a personalised in-room check-in.
stunning marble bathroom with heated flooring, double sinks, a smart toilet and walk-in shower – with an almost alarming number of jet nozzles and showerheads. Bathroom products were by Diptyque. The separate living room also featured classic, contemporary décor and stylish lighting. I’m not the biggest fan of circular work desks, but this one was large and positioned next to a full suite of connectivity options with the option to stream devices to the television. High-speed wifi is available for up to six devices. The City Suite design makes it easy to host business meetings as the sleeping quarters can easily be partitioned off. Suite guests have access to the Oriental Club Lounge on the sixth floor – a smart, spacious area with an adjoining outdoor terrace. Breakfast (served until 10.30am or 11am on weekends) is extensive, with buffet and à la carte options. Other amenities include private meeting rooms, refreshments throughout the day, a shoeshine service and garment pressing.
R O O M S The hotel has 256 guestrooms and 47 suites, starting at a very generous 55 sqm. My 86 sqm one-bedroom Club City Suite was beautiful. The bedroom was steeped in Parisian elegance with Oriental flourishes, and the king-size bed was possibly the most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept in, with luxurious 480-threadcount satin bed linen, and goose down feather pillows and duvets. By the side of the bed was an easy-to-use control panel for the curtains and blackout blinds as well as a master light switch and dimming control. Universal sockets were also available. French-window doors opened onto a
F O O D & D R I N K There are six F&B venues. The three restaurants include Cafe Un Deux Trois, offering all-day international fare. The high-end perfumery at the entrance offers a unique twist, as does Pages, a creative café concept with a library of luxury publications. Located on the third floor is Ya Ge, a fine-dining Chinese with 11 private dining rooms. The third restaurant is casual Italian eatery Bencotto, featuring an open kitchen, chef’s table and private dining room for up to 50. To the right of the lobby entrance is the Jade Lounge, a beautiful space to enjoy classic afternoon tea and pastries, or for
W H E R E I S I T ? Located in Songshan
70
district, a five-minute cab ride from Songshan International Airport or a 40-minute drive to Taoyuan International Airport. Songshan is a major financial centre, with many banking institutions on Dunhua North Road. Entertainment options will most likely require a cab journey.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
The Oriental Club Lounge on the sixth floor is a smart, spacious area with an adjoining outdoor terrace
PRICE Internet rates for a one-night stay in a Club City Suite in mid-February start from NT$25,500 (US$840).
CONTACT 158, Dunhua North Road, Songshan District, Taipei, 10548; +886 2 2715 6888; mandarinoriental. com/taipei
something a little stronger, try the inherently cool MO bar, open from 5pm and featuring a DJ at the weekend. Sweet treats can also be found in the Mandarin Cake Shop.
M E E T I N G S A number of meeting options are available from the 960 sqm Grand Ballroom to five Oriental Rooms. A large foyer is also a good space for pre-function cocktails or coffee breakouts.
L E I S U R E At 3,500 sqm The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei is one of the biggest in the city, featuring 12 treatment rooms including two VIP suites, four double and six single rooms, a beauty salon, spa tea lounge and spa boutique. There’s also a spacious 24-hour fitness centre and 20-metre heated outdoor pool, plus an adjoining arcade with luxury boutiques. V E R D I C T Fantastic. I couldn’t find anything to fault during my stay, from the design and facilities to the service – top marks all round. Tamsin Cocks businesstraveller.com
TRIED AND TESTED HOTEL
BEST FOR… Plenty of choice.
DON’T MISS… The rooftop pool and variety of F&B.
Marina Bay Sands, Singapore B A C K G R O U N D Marina Bay Sands is one of Singapore’s two major integrated developments (the other being Resorts World Sentosa). Last year the hotel underwent a complete renovation of its 2,561 rooms and suites. W H E R E I S I T ? Adjacent to Gardens by the Bay in the south of the city. A car ride from Changi Airport takes about 20 minutes. W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? Marina Bay Sands is a behemoth of a hotel. With three towers offering over 2,500 rooms and an enormous lobby area comprising everything from shops to dining outlets, it has a bustling atmosphere that can sometimes feel more like a train station than a hotel. R O O M S My newly renovated Club room had new surfaces and table tops with white marble, refreshed bed linens and carpets, and ergonomic touches such as USB docks by the bed (a welcome addition). At around 60 sqm the room is very spacious, despite being one of the property’s smaller room categories (Marina Bay Sands has 12 types overall, more than half of which are suites, going all the way up to the 629 sqm Chairman Suite). The brown-and-white colour scheme gives a professional and also quite homey appearance, with plenty of facilities from a coffee machine to a radio/alarm smartphone docking station. The bed is vast (at nearly two metres tall, I slept comfortably without hanging off the end) and the bathroom is also a large affair, with a separate glassenclosed shower and sizeable bathtub. The TV was very easy to operate and the desk offers plenty of workspace businesstraveller.com
PRICE
(alongside power and USB ports), though on the flip side the lights were tricky to master – no master switch by the door and lots of individual lamps. I found the complimentary wifi service got sluggish at times, requiring me to reconnect manually when transitioning between areas in the hotel, and you have to re-register every 24 hours. Guests in this room category do enjoy a more private check-in in a separate room off the main lobby, allowing you to bypass the crowds, and express checkout boxes are available on the ground floor by the lifts.
L O U N G E Club55 takes its name from its location on the 55th floor of Tower 2 with fantastic city views. It’s a large space with a lot of seating but it can get busy if you pick the wrong time. Arriving at 9am, I had a ten-minute wait to be seated. The food selection, comprising Asian and Western buffet cuisine, plus eggs made to order, was very good. Also, from 8pm to midnight, the lounge becomes a public cocktail bar. Staff were very impressive, referring to each guest by name.
F O O D A N D D R I N K Marina Bay Sands has no shortage of F&B outlets – there are 46 in total both in the hotel itself and the wider Marina Bay Sands complex. On my second morning I headed to the rooftop to visit Spago Dining Room by Wolfgang Puck. I was fortunate to get a seat overlooking the pool and the urban landscape. The menu selection is reasonable and the quality was good. Another notable offering is Adrift by David Myers, which offers a contemporary izakaya menu and signature cocktails – the
The infinity pool on the 57th floor rooftop is arguably its most impressive attraction
Internet rates for a Club King room midweek stay in mid-February start from S$811 (US$602) including tax and surcharges.
CONTACT 10 Bayfront Avenue, Singapore 018956; +65 6688 8888; marinabaysands.com
bartender makes a mean Penicillin cocktail if you like your smoky whiskies.
M E E T I N G S Being attached to the Marina Bay Sands convention centre gives the hotel access to a 30,000 sqm exhibition space and a 7,672 sqm ballroom – one of the largest in Southeast Asia.
L E I S U R E Marina Bay Sands’ infinity pool on the 57th floor rooftop is arguably its most impressive attraction – a great location to snap a picture with the city backdrop. The pool is one of the hotel’s “Skypark” features, alongside two restaurants (Spago and Ce La Vi), Skybar and the Observation Deck. Elsewhere in the Marina Bay Sands complex is the Art Science Museum, casino, theatre and two luxury retail pavilions. V E R D I C T Great facilities, personalised service despite the huge number of guests, and a polished product make Marina Bay Sands a pleasure to stay in. But its greatest strength – its size – may also be a negative for those who prefer a quieter, calmer and more intimate environment. Craig Bright JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
71
TRIED AND TESTED HEADPHONES
Mixcder MS301
72
These over-ear headphones connect to the sound source over Bluetooth, which I’ve always avoided in the past for three reasons: first, Bluetooth can often be quite complicated; second, the sound quality often suffers; and third, there is sometimes a slight delay, which is annoying when watching something on your iPad or laptop and there are lip-synch problems. With the Mixcder MS301, these problems seem to have been addressed. The connection was very easy. I simply turned on the devices in the correct order (headphones first, then device) and the items paired instantly, with my phone, iPad and laptop. I found that on returning to the iPad at a later date I occasionally had to ask the iPad to forget the headphones and then re-pair them, but that’s the iPad’s fault. The headphones have a high capacity 500mAh battery, which has a play time of about 20 hours. If the battery does run out, there’s a 3.5mm audio cable supplied to
Denon AH-C820
plug into the device (admittedly, too short to be very useful). For the price, I also thought the sound was very good. To quote the information supplied, “Inside, the MS301s are equipped with 40mm ultra large-aperture backed dynamic drivers with advanced APTX-LL and shock sound to deliver a unique sound performance, with an incredible booming bass, a detailed midrange midrange, and extended treble.” I used them for everything from choral music m to radio o and watchin ng Netflix and a they we ere great fo or all of this, and ver y light, with a bulk tha at can be reduced because they fold easily. I didn’t use them fo or handsfree calls, though this is possible. p The headphones h are veryy well built,
using an aluminium alloy shell with a smooth glossy metal finish on the outer ear cups and an adjustable headband made of stainless steel and padding for high comfort levels. Finally, there was no noticeable delay in the sound. The technical word is latency. The manufacturers say this has been addressed with “the latest Bluetooth 4.2 for fast pairing and strong capability”. Any concerns? Well, although they are good for noise isolation, they spill an awful lot of noise themselves, so in a quiet environment, this isn’t ideal.
If you’re looking for a pair of in-ear headphones for your next flight, these could be a good option. The AH-C820s are extremely small and light, and provide powerful base delivered through dual drivers (tiny speakers designed for both high and mid tones, as well as deeper, richer sounds). The AH-C820s are simplistic when it comes to features, which will suit some people but not others. They are not wireless or noise cancelling and they don’t have a remote attached to the cable (this was the thing I missed most) but they are great for running as they don’t fall out (a shirt clip is also provided), and block enough ambient sound without eliminating everything,
£129 (US$173)
which I like as I prefer to have my wits about me. They also plug in to airline in-flight entertainment systems, which is essential. The headphones are fitted with hard memory foam “Comply TX500” ear buds but you can also swap them out for softer silicone tips that come in four different sizes so you can find what feels most comfortable. I was unimpressed with the “carry case” provided, as it required you to wind the smooth grey cable around and around a disc-shaped mount, which was a nuisance. I would have preferred a straightforward pouch of some kind. The design of the headphones is pleasing, with die-cast aluminium housings and a translucent, tangle-free cable. I generally used them for listening to podcasts during my daily commute or watching movies, but music sounds good through them too.
CONTACT
V E R D I C T They won’t be for serious
denon.com
audiophiles but for the price, they are real contenders. Jenny Southan
PRICE
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
V E R D I C T Great value, and a lovely sound, just don’t sit next to anyone in a quiet place and listen to loud music. Tom Otley
PRICE Available from Amazon for US$79.99
CONTACT mixcder.com
businesstraveller.com
T R I E D A N D T E S T E D H O N G K O N G R E S TAU R A N T S
Terroir Parisien
Parisian super-chef Yannick Alléno opened his first Hong Kong establishment in August 2017. The cheerful bistro-style eatery is surprisingly affordable given its high-end location in Central’s Prince’s Building. There’s an open kitchen, island bar and two seating areas with booths and tables. Stylish black-and-white photos line the walls, while stainless-steel tables and paper table mats reminded me of my favourite café-bistros in Paris’s Montmartre district. Starters include obvious staples like onion soup and ovenroasted Camembert alongside some more intriguing choices. We opted for Caviar de lentilles et blinis (“Beluga” lentils with nutmeg crème fraîche and warm blinis; HK$88/US$11) and Bouchées de champignons de Paris aux escargots (snails baked in a Paris mushroom cap with parsley and garlic butter; HK$158/US$20). The flavours were smooth and delicate, the snails fantastic, the lentils perhaps a little bland, needing slightly more nutmeg. From 12 mains, we plumped for“Pilafaela” de noix de coquille Saint-Jacques (sea scallops cooked over simmered rice pilaf in an aromatic broth; HK$288/US$37) and Navarin printanier d’agneau (lamb shoulder ragu with seasonal vegetables; HK$348/ US$45). The scallops were cooked to perfection but it was the meatiness of the pilaf rice – cooked in a chicken broth – that most impressed me. The lamb, meanwhile, was smothered in fresh carrots, green beans and peas, flanked by tasty new potatoes and swimming in a HOURS delicious sauce – superb, hearty fare. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, The signature dessert, Saint-Honoré 6pm-10.30pm (caramelized choux pastry, kirsch custard and Chantilly cream; HK$88/US$11) was PRICE sinfully good, especially with its creamy Around HK$1,500 combinations of texture. (US$192) for a threeThe wine list is exclusively French; we course meal for two with tried a crispy sauvignon blanc and an house wine and coffee. excellent merlot-cabernet franc blend.
CONTACT V E R D I C T A great place that largely succeeds in replicating a typical Parisian bistro. The hearty French fare is cooked very well, presented nicely and very good value. A fun place for an enjoyable meal in the heart of Hong Kong. Jeremy Tredinnick businesstraveller.com
Shop M20-M24, Mezzanine Floor, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central; tel 2522 9990; yannick-alleno.com
Kishoku Tucked away in Causway Bay, Japanese restaurant Kishoku is HOURS famous for its omakase (chef’s Daily 12pm-3pm, selection) offerings, and has 6pm-11pm recently launched a Winter Hotpot Dinner set, which begins PRICE with a chilled miso toro (tuna) Winter Hotpot Dinner set appetiser, infused with smoke HK$880/US$113 (chicken); and decorated with edible pink HK$1,080/US$138 (beef) flowers. This is followed by a large sashimi platter, given a gorgeous CONTACT autumnal presentation with 5/F, Zing!, 38 Yiu Wa leaves and twigs. Street, Causeway Bay; Next come individual hotpots. tel 2893 0333; The chicken meatball hotpot has kishoku.hk a tasty white broth, but we highly recommend the Wagyu beef hotpot, with a deliciously sweet soy soup base. The hotpots come with extra soup and an onsen egg to dip the meat in before eating – try adding the egg to the soup at the end to create a fluffy scrambled egg mixture. After the hotpot is seafood stone pot rice, a delicious dish with melt-in-your-mouth uni (sea urchin), lightly seared scallops and fish eggs that burst in the mouth, plus plenty of fiery wasabi. The final savoury dish is madai fish soup, followed by a dessert of persimmon pear, rock melon and a crunchy strawberry roll. We also tried a few non-set menu dishes, and recommend the signature toro “sandwich” – two thick, juicy pieces of tuna with caviar and gold flakes wrapped in seaweed; and the sushi platter, featuring kinmedai fish, karei fish topped with fish liver, and Wagyu sushi with foie gras.
V E R D I C T The food and drinks at Kishoku are exquisite. We loved the careful presentation of the dishes as well as the inventive concepts. The signature gins are an added bonus. A great way to impress clients or friends. Craig Bright JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
73
SMART TR AVELLER
How to get from…
Hong Kong International Airport to the city centre
H 74
ong Kong International Airport (HKIA) has been in operation for almost 20 years, since international f lights were moved from Kai Tak Airport, in the middle of the chaotic Kowloon Peninsula, to the newly reclaimed Chek Lap Kok Island – located to the west of Hong Kong’s largest outlying island Lantau. While the new location is farther away from the city centre, thanks to Hong Kong’s excellent public transport system there are a number of ways to get into town. Here we help you plot the most efficient course to your destination. HKIA has two terminals (T1 and T2), but all arrivals come into Terminal 1, and it is from here – through two customs channels, A and B – that all transportation is accessed. Unless you are being met with a private vehicle, there are three types of transport from which to choose: the Airport Express train, bus or taxi.
AIRPORT EXPRESS As soon as you pass through customs there’s a service counter for Airport Express tickets to the city. Exit into the Arrivals Hall and large signs point you through to the train platform past another counter plus automated machines doling out tickets – it’s a two-minute walk. The 24-minute train service JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
is the fastest option to reach Hong Kong Station, the end of the line in Hong Kong Island’s Central District. During that sub-half-hour journey the train also stops at Tsing Yi and Kowloon stations, both of which are well connected to MTR train services reaching different parts of the city (Tsing Yi is best for the “new towns” of Tsuen Wan, Tuen Mun, Yuen Long and Sha Tin in the New Territories; Kowloon for the Kowloon Peninsula’s sprawling districts). The train leaves every 12 minutes, operating from 0554 to 0048. Download the MTR’s “Next Train” app for real-time updates of the train schedules. In-seat device charging is available in the first and last cabins, and there are four storage spaces in each carriage. A single-journey or sameday-return ticket costs HK$115 (US$15) while a round trip is HK$205 (US$26). Octopus cardholders enjoy HK$5 discount and there are promotions for travellers in groups of two, three or four with rates at HK$170 (US$22), HK$230 (US$29) and HK$280 (US$36), respectively. Some websites also offer prebooking discounts, for example Klook (klook.com) offers a large discount on Airport Express tickets, with single-journey tickets for HK$41 (US$5) and HK$129 (US$16) for a round trip. After purchasing online a QR code is sent to you by email, which you
scan at designated platform gates at the station. You don’t actually need a ticket before jumping onto the train at the airport, but you must have one to exit the platform at your destination – there are manned service counters for this at all stations.
BUSES Two main bus operators – Citybus and Long Win – carry passengers from the airport to the city. Follow the signage and head down a long slope to the right, leading to the bus terminal. For those unfamiliar with which bus to take to their destination, there’s a large, clear route map before you get to the bus stops. More than 60 lines travel to different areas of the city, with many passing through the city centre. Some provide an overnight service. The most convenient way to pay is to buy an Octopus card at the Airport Express service counter (HK$50/US$6.5 deposit plus HK$100/US$13 minimum added value), and
get on the bus by swiping the card. Alternatively, coins and notes are accepted but no change is given.
TAXIS The taxi stands are located down the left-hand ramp outside the Arrivals Hall. There are three kinds of taxi: red, green and blue. Blue serves Lantau Island, green serves the New Territories only, while red covers all Hong Kong destinations except Lantau. You’re most likely to be hopping in a red taxi, and the f lag rate is HK$24 (US$3) for the first 2km, then HK$1.7 for every 200m under HK$83.5, and HK$1.2 per 200m after that. For a ride to Central expect to pay approximately HK$370 (US$47). A taxi can normally carry about three regular-sized suitcases (charged at HK$6 each) in the boot, but you can also put oversized pieces on the back seat. hongkongairport.com businesstraveller.com
5Fl., 1150, Gyeongsu-daero, Jangan-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do, 16207, Korea Tel : +82-(0)31-259-4721 Fax : +82 -(0)31-259-4780 E-mail : gmice@gto.or.kr www.gmice.or.kr
KINTEX, AsiaĂ?s 5th-Largest Convention Center Go Anywhere, Fast 40min. from ICN, 40min. from Seoul Strong Support for Bidding and Hosting All Kinds of Attractions for All Kinds of MICE Events