桃園市文化資產導覽手冊

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市長序

翻閱城市的身世 打開歷史的記憶

回顧桃園的過去,從平埔族與泰雅族之生活場域,至清乾隆年間因大量 閩粵移民開墾,聚落發展、社會體制與科考文教風氣逐漸成形;日治時期, 因水利與各種建設使桃園成為北臺灣的農商重鎮;戰後,無論於社會、經濟、 政治、軍事、藝文發展,都展現豐沛的能量。 前人與鄉親共同留下的深刻奮鬥史,為這塊土地累積精彩富饒的文化資 源,造就充滿活力與多元文化的桃園。雨果說:「歷史是過去傳到將來的回 聲,是將來對過去的反映。」走讀於古蹟、歷史建築之中,除了親身體會歷 史空間場域並感受在地的人文流轉脈絡及多樣包容的風貌外,也提醒我們所 負有之傳承與永續發展的使命。 近年,市府持續推動文化資產保存工作,民間社團與文史工作者熱情的 投入,資產所有權人、管理人與使用人的支持,以及各大專院校之建築、藝 術、景觀、文資等相關系所,在文化資產的保存、傳承、研究與人才培養上, 皆發揮了重要的功能。指定或登錄的文化資產,為過往的時代與先民留下具 體見證,其保存與持續性地活用,反映當代的態度與智慧,更是未來桃園立 足發展,厚實文化的重要根基。 謹以本序文對長年戮力於守護文化資產的各界先進,表達誠摯的謝意,

Tapping into memories from the past: A look at a city’s birth Taoyuan’s development started with the settlement of Pingpu and Atayal tribes, and prospered following the mass immigration of the Minnan and the Cantonese, whom established villages, social norms, as well as literary pursuits and official exam system, in the 1700s. During the Japanese rule, the area became a hub for agriculture and trade in Northern Taiwan through its well-structured irrigation system and constructions. After the World War II, the city’s vibrancy was felt in terms of its social, economic, political, military, and cultural development. The rich legacies and heritage from the ancestors and the pioneers nurtured the vitality of the multi-cultural Taoyuan. Victor Hugo once said, “History is an echo of the past in the future; a reflex from the future on the past.” As we immerse ourselves in the rich cultural context and savor the aura of the architectural diversity of historic monuments, we are reminded of the great task ahead of us, that of passing on, and keeping the legacies alive. In recent years, the city government has collaborated with many parties in its effort to preserve the cultural heritages; the inclusion of dedicated grass roots groups, cultural experts and historians, and support from property owners, managers, and end users were crucial. University programs such as architecture, arts, landscape design, and cultural heritage conservation, have also played an important role in nurturing new talents. The designated or registered sites are tangible markers from our ancestors and the past; the preservation and creative usage of these would not only reflect what we do now, but will be the foundation for Taoyuan’s cultural development in the future. With this, I would like to express my deepest gratitude to all the predecessors who have dedicated in the preservation of the cultural heritages. Inspired by these role models, I welcome all to draw tolerance and humility from the history, and join to foster the future of local culture.

並與大家共勉共勵,自歷史脈絡展現的包容與謙遜中,茁壯地方文化新氣象。

桃園市長

Taoyuan Mayor

CHENG, WEN-TSANG

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局長序

歷史建築活化重生 穿梭古今任你行

桃園市大規模的開發始自十八世紀上半葉,閩客籍移民陸續移入,開鑿 陂圳墾拓田園,奠定今日桃園繁華的根基。歷經滿清、日治,以至國民政府, 留下不同類型風格與用途的有形構造物,訴說時代的故事。 桃園的法定文化資產除史前的大園尖山遺址,依時代主要可分三大時期: 清領時期的寺廟、祠堂與民居;日治時期的公教宿舍、神社、武德殿與民居; 以及戰後的眷村與軍警建物,種類多元,呈現出桃園三百年來發展的縮影。 文化資產透過活化再利用,不再只是凍結的空間,如大溪國小日式宿舍、 警察局宿舍群、武德殿、公會堂等歷史建築,結合在地產業特色規劃為大溪 木藝生態博物館,成為民眾可親近使用的場域。又如曾經為數頗眾且特色相 異的各軍種眷村,如中壢馬祖新村、龜山憲光二村、大溪太武新村作已為保 留眷村文化的鐵三角,其中馬祖新村修復後闢為馬祖文創園區,設置影視協 拍中心,保存眷村的文化與故事,也供大眾體驗昔日眷村氛圍。 連接過去與現在是文化資產存在的美好緣由之一,本次以指定登錄的古 蹟、歷史建築等文化資產進行出版,期能讓大眾透過本書導覽,感受桃園的 豐富人文歷史。

international metropolis of the context, the predecessors pioneering traces of colonization and cultural diversity of coexistence of ethnic diversity. Prehistoric people in the late Neolithic period that is stationed in Taoyuan,

桃園市政府文化局長

The Revival of Historic Buildings: A Journey into Time Travel Taoyuan City’s large-scale development started in the first half of 18th century, when the Minnan and Hakka people immigrated and settled in. They built the irrigation system and worked on the farmlands, resulting in a solid base for today’s prosperity in Taoyuan. Having been ruled by the Qing dynasty, the Japanese empire, and the Nationalists’ government, Taoyuan’s architectural diversity and utility is rich with history. Aside from the pre-historic Dayuan Jianshan Archaeological Site, three key historical eras are found in Taoyuan’s designated cultural heritage sites: the Qing dynasty’s temples, shrines, and residences, Japanese’s official residences, Shinto shrines, Butokuden Martial Dojos and residences, and post-war military villages and constructions. Such architectural variety represents an epitome in the area’s development in the last 300 years. Through the adaptive reuse of cultural heritages, spaces would not be fossilized anymore. Daxi Wood Art EcoMuseum is but one example that integrated local industry highlights and historic buildings to include Residences for Daxi ‘s Elementary School and Police Station, the Butokuden Martial Arts Dojo, and the Assembly Hall as one community space for local residents. On the other hand, the military villages’ “iron triangle:” Mazhu New Village, Xianguang Second Village, Taiwu New Village, retained army families’ original flair. Mazhu New Village, in particular, was renovated to be a cultural and creative base for the entertainment industry, a design that allows the public to engage with the past. Connecting the past with the present is a remarkable reason to preserve cultural heritages. Now, we decided to publish this guide with information regarding the designated monuments and registered historic buildings. We hope that this could be a guide that takes you into a journey of Taoyuan’s cultural and historical richness.

General Director of Department of Cultural Affiairs of Taoyuan City Government

CHUANG, HSIU-MEI

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目錄

八德廣福宮 Guangfu Temple, Bade 八德呂達川祠堂 Lü Dachuan Ancestral Shrine, Bade 八德喻竹居 Yuzhu Ju, Bade

市長序 Mayor Preface

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局長序 Director Preface

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桃園文化資產地圖 Cultural Heritage Map of Taoyuan

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桃園市歷史 History of Taoyuan City

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蘆竹區 Luzhu

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蘆竹五福宮 Wufu Temple, Luzhu 蘆竹德馨堂 DexinTang, Luzhu 前內政部北區兒童之家宿舍群(含院長宿舍) Residence for Former Northern District Children's Home, Ministry of the Interior

龜山區 Guishan 壽山巖觀音寺 Shoushanyan Guanyin Temple 龜崙嶺鐵道橋遺構 Remains of Guilunling Railroad Bridge 黃繼烔公墓園 Huang Jitong's Cemetery 前龜山陸光三村活動中心 Former Community Center for Luguang Third Village, Guishan 龜山憲光二村 Xianguang Second Village, Guishan

桃園區 Taoyuan 桃園景福宮 Jingfu Temple, Taoyuan 桃園忠烈祠 Martyrs Shrine, Tauyuan 舊桃園縣警察局桃園分局 Former Taoyuan County Taoyuan Police Station 桃園大廟口派出所 Damiaokou Police Station, Taoyuan 桃園車站舊倉庫 Taoyuan Station Old Warehouse 桃園警察局日式宿舍群 Japanese-style Residence for Taoyuan Police Station 桃園大樹林橋 Dashulin Bridge, Taoyuan

八德區 Bade 八德呂宅著存堂 Lü Family Abode ZhucunTang, Bade 八德三元宮 Sanyuan Temple, Bade

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18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56

八德林奇珍古墓 Lin Qizhen's Tomb, Bade 八德中正堂 Zhongzheng Hall, Bade

大溪區 Daxi

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70 大溪齋明寺 Zhaiming Temple, Daxi 72 大溪李騰芳古宅 Li Tengfang Mansion 74 大溪簡送德古宅 Historical Residence of Jian Songde, Daxi 76 大溪林宅梅鶴山莊 Lin Family Meihe Villa, Daxi 78 慈湖陵寢 Cihu Mausoleum 80 大溪陵寢 Daxi Mausoleum 82 大溪簡氏古厝 Historical Residence of Jian Family, Daxi 84 大溪老街 Daxi old street 86 大溪和平路玉寶堂 Yu-bao Tang Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 88 大溪和平路 Kenko Kenko Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 88 大溪和平路協興 Xie-xing Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 88 大溪和平路永發 Yung-fa Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 90 大溪和平路廣大 Guang-da Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 90 大溪和平路茂發 Maofa Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 90 大溪和平路 48、48-1 號 No. 48 and 48-1, Heping Road, Daxi 92 大溪和平路 54 號 No. 54, Heping Road, Daxi 92 大溪和平路李記興源 Li-ji-xing-yuan Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 92 大溪和平路金記同興 Jin-ji-tong-xing Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 94 大溪和平路錦發 Jin-fa Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 94 大溪和平路金源 Jin-yuan Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi 94 大溪中央路隆泰 Long-tai Shop Facade, Zhongyang Road, Daxi 96 大溪蓮座山觀音寺 Lianzuashan Guanyin Temple, Daxi

大溪中央路赤龍、廖宅、翠鳳 Chi-long Shop Facade, Liao' s House, Cui-feng Shop Facade, Zhongyang Road, Daxi 大溪中央路 148 號 No. 148, Zhongyang Road, Daxi 大溪中山路 19 號 No. 19, Zhongshan Road, Daxi 建成商行 Kensei Shoco, Daxi

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100 月眉通路 Yuemei Passageway 102 大溪石板古道 Old Stone-paved Path, Daxi 104 大溪公會堂 Daxi Assembly Hall 106 大溪武德殿 Martial Arts Dojo, Daxi 108 大溪國小日式宿舍 Japanese-style Residence for Daxi Elementary School 110 大溪警察局宿舍群 Japanese-style Residence for Daxi Police Station 112 大溪太武新村 Taiwu New Village, Daxi 114 大溪蘭室 Lanshi, Daxi

復興區 Fuxing 基國派教堂 Tuba Church 角板山薰風閣 Xunfeng Ge at Jiaoban Mountain 佐久間總督追懷紀念碑臺基 Granite Base of Memorial for Governor-General Sakuma 新竹林區管理處大溪工作站復興分站招待所 Guest House of the Fuxing Branch, Daxi Work Station, Xinzhu Forest District Office 角板山賓館 Jiaoban Mountain Guest House 溪口吊橋遺構 Remains of Xikou Suspension Bridge 復興巴陵橋暨巴陵一、二號隧道 Baling Bridge and Baling Tunnels No. 1 and No. 2, Fuxing 復興巴壟橋紀念柱 Balon Iron-Wire Bridge Memorial Post, Fuxing

大園區 Dayuan 大園尖山遺址 Jianshan Archaeological Site, Dayuan 前空軍桃園基地設施群 Former Taoyuan Air Base Facilities

中壢區 Zhongli 中壢中平路縣府日式宿舍 Japanese-style Residence for County Government on Zhongping Road, Zhongli 中壢警察局日式宿舍群 Japanese-style Residence for Zhongli Police Station 中壢國小日式宿舍 Japanese-style Residence for Zhong-Li Elementary School 中壢新街國小日式宿舍 Japanese-style Residence for Xinjie Elementary School, Zhongli 中壢聖蹟亭及東伯公 Shengji Incinerator and Temple of Eastern Land Deity, Zhongli

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原中壢高中教師宿舍白馬莊 White-Horse Villa, Staff Residence for Former Zhongli Senior High School 中壢龍岡圓環軍人雕像及文藝活動中心 Longgang Roundabout with Soldier statue and Recreational Center , Zhongli 中壢馬祖新村 Mazhu New Village, Zhongli

龍潭區 Longtan 龍潭聖蹟亭 Shengji Incinerator, Longtan 龍潭翁新統大屋 ( 正廳、右第一護龍 ) Abode of Wen-xin-ton (main room and the first right side room), Longtan 龍潭烏樹林翁宅祖堂六桂傳香 Weng Family Liu-gui-chuan-xiang Ancestral Shrine in Wushulin, Longtan 大平橋 Daping Bridge 龍潭三和江夏科文祖堂 Jiang-xia-ke-wen Ancestral Shrine in Sanhe, Longtan 龍潭三坑川盛信記商店 Chuan Sheng Xin Ji Store in Sankeng, Longtan 龍潭國小日式宿舍 Japanese-style Residence for Lungtan Elementary School 龍潭武德殿 Martial Arts Dojo, Longtan

觀音區 Guanyin 觀音白沙岬燈塔 Baisha Cape Lighthouse, Guanyin

新屋區 Xinwu 新屋范姜祖堂 Fan-Jiang Ancestral Hall, Xinwu 新屋農會倉庫 Warehouse of Xinwu Farmer's Association

楊梅區 Yangmei 楊梅道東堂玉明屋 Abode of Yuming Daodong Tang, Yangmei 楊梅江夏堂 Jiangxia Tang, Yangmei 楊梅國中校長及教職員宿舍群 Residence for Principal and Staff of Yangmei Junior High School 楊梅茶業改良場宿舍 Japanese-style Residence for Tea Research and Extension Station, Yangmei 土牛溝楊梅段 Section of Qing Dynasty Border Moat, Yangmei

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桃園文化資產地圖 桃園文化資產地圖

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認識 桃園 Intro

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Cultural Heritage Map of Taoyuan

桃園文化資產地圖

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認識 桃園 Intro

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話說桃園市 看建築讀歷史 桃園位於臺灣西北部,大漢溪將境內劃為兩部分,東南多為丘陵、山地, 西北以臺地為主。桃園臺地上河川較短、流量小,原不利耕作灌溉,人們開

History of Taoyuan City 歷史 Taoyuan sits at northwest of Taiwan, with Dahan River dividing the area into two: hills to the southeast, and plateau to the northwest.

History

Taoyuan Plateau's rivers are short with weak flow, not meant for irrigation. Only the building of ponds and irrigation system made farmlands and settlements possible; the ponds in the thousands also make for a unique sight.

掘陂塘、水圳得以豐潤田園、生聚發展,數以千計的陂塘亦成為桃園獨特的 景觀。 從大園尖山遺址出土物判斷,以新石器晚期的圓山、植物園文化為主, 說明桃園早有人類活動。據清代文獻所載,桃園的原住民主要為平埔族南崁 四社,另有泰雅族出沒臺灣北部;康熙年間始有漢人來桃園開墾,至乾隆年 間才大規模移墾;為免原漢衝突,當局設土牛溝為界,現存之土牛溝楊梅段 為原漢歷史的一道剪影。 伴隨漢人移民腳步,桃園景福宮、龜山壽山巖觀音寺等地方信仰中心歷 史悠久,龍潭與中壢聖蹟亭反映客家人重道崇文,大溪老街與石板古道則見 證往昔大漢溪航運繁榮。移民墾拓有成、落地生根,興建恢弘宅第如大溪李 騰芳古宅等,或是慎終追遠、建立宗祠如新屋范姜祖堂等。 日本治臺後,展開近代化殖民建設,引入不同類型建築與制度,今於桃 園保存有成,包括桃園神社(今忠烈祠)、武德殿、洋式大溪公會堂及日式 宿舍群等;而大溪老城區街屋可見市區改正(都市計畫)的實施,其混搭西 洋、漢人式樣的牌樓面,突顯多元風格交融的時代感。 國民政府遷臺,帶來另一波的人文流轉,現存的龜山憲光二村、中壢馬

Findings from Jianshan Archaeological Site in Dayuan comprise mainly remnants of Yuanshan and Botanic Garden Culture, signaling early human activities in Taoyuan. The Qing history documented the Pingpu Tribe were active in Taoyuan; with Atayals in northern Taiwan. Han people pioneered into Taoyuan starting from 1663, with increased immigration after 1730s. To avoid Han and aboriginals' conflicts, the government set up earth-oxen moat, leaving Yangmei's section as evidence of the past. Traces of Han people’s immigration can be found in the establishments of local spiritual and cultural centers: Jingfu Temple and Guishan's Shoushanyan Guanyin Temple are for religious followers; Hakka people's reverence for literacy and letters reflected on Longtan and Zhongli's Shengji Incinerators; and Daxi Old Streets and stone-paved Paths that saw the area’s boom. With success, the offspring settled and built, for example, grandiose mansion in Daxi, or Fan-Jiang Ancestral Hall in Xinwu, honoring their ancestors. With Japanese colonization, different architectural and governmental structures were introduced, most of which are kept in Taoyuan: Martyrs Shrine, Wude Martial Arts Dojo, plus Daxi Assembly Hall and Japanese-style Residences. The City Restructuring can be see on Daxi's Old Streets, with Western and Han blended arcade facade that accentuates the uniqueness and change of times. With the Nationalist taking over Taiwan, another round of culture took place, all represented by the military. These include the military dependents’ villages in Guishan, Zhongli and Daxi, Bade Zhongzheng Hall's recreational space, and former Air Force Base in Taoyuan as examples that saw Taiwan's strategic position during the Cold War.

祖新村、大溪太武新村即為各類型眷村代表,八德中正堂反映軍旅文康生活, 前空軍桃園基地設施群見證臺灣於冷戰時期的戰略地位。

A city rich in history and wisdom, Taoyuan's impressive cultural and architectural sights await your visit. Such is the magic of the city that invites one’s contemplation, making history live on, as the city writes its future.

追尋桃園發展脈絡與先民生活智慧,處處有其精彩的人文風景,經由人 與建築的互動,喚起你我的共識與反思,讓歷史空間文化延綿,攜手開創未 來新局。

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嚆始之地

蘆竹區 Luzhu

行政 分為 37 里 面積 75.5 平方公里 人口 158,476 人 (2016. 11 統計)

蘆竹德馨堂 DexinTang, Luzhu

Luzhu

蘆竹區

蘆竹依山傍海,地勢由東北向西南緩斜,東北為丘陵,佔全區 1/3 面積, 往西南延伸一片平坦廣闊的田野;與龜山、大園、桃園及林口為界,另有海

蘆竹

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Luzhu

岸線臨臺灣海峽。 蘆竹有桃園重要河川南崁溪流過,古時有南崁港,「南崁」是蘆竹發展 的核心,也是桃園最早開發的區域,原是凱達格蘭族「南崁社」的部份範圍。 據說此地原住民以當地盛長的蘆竹築屋,因而得名「蘆竹厝」,後改稱「蘆 竹」。 明永曆 15 年 (1661) 鄭成功來臺驅荷,軍隊北上曾屯駐南崁地區,即今

蘆竹五福宮 Wufu Temple, Luzhu

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「五福宮」一帶。清康熙末年,廣東嘉應一帶居民,以南崁港為臺、粵間通

蘆竹空軍三十五中隊飛機暨 蘆竹空軍飛機棚廠暨減壓室 室附室附 附屬設施

商口岸,往返其間,與平埔族交易;至雍正年間,福建漳、泉二府人陸續來臺,

Hangar and Hypobaric Chamber of ROCAF 35th Squadron (Black Cat Squadron), Luzhu

前內政部北區兒童之家 宿舍群(含院長宿舍) Residence for Head of Former Northern DistrictChildren's Home, Ministry of the Interior (with The Head's dormitory)

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奠定此地以閩人為主的基礎。 各時期具代表性的歷史建築,有乾隆年間興建的「五福宮」,為香火鼎 盛的武財神廟;明治 31 年(1898)興建的陳氏祠堂「德馨堂」,是保存良

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好的閩南式傳統民居以及充滿和洋混搭風格的七○年代公有宿舍「前內政部 北區兒童之家宿舍群」,正在醞釀、傳承為藝文親子場域。█

Luzhu is in between the hills and the sea. Neighboring Guishan, Dayuan,

Taoyuan and Lingkou, the hilly part starts from the northeast and takes up one-third

mostly from Zhangzhou and Quanzhou in China, settled in the area soon afterwards.

Taiwan Strait.

Wufu Temple worships the God of Martial Arts and Fortune. The DexingTang of

the plant for the housing. This was Taoyuan's earliest developed area, with Nankan

Western hybrid-styled Residence for the Northern District Children’s Home (Ministry

of the area, sloping towards an open field, ultimately reaching the coastline by the The name Luzhu, literally “reeds,” was said to come from the Ketagalan's use of

River flowing through Luzhu, and the presence of a Nankan Port in the early days.

In 1661, Koxinga expelled the Dutch, went north and stationed around today’s

Wufu Temple. In the early 18th century, residents from Guangdong used Nankan

Luzhu preserves typical historical buildings from different eras. The prosperous

Chen Family (1898) is a well-kept traditional Minnan Residence. The Japanese-

of the Interior) built in the 1980s is undergoing transformation to become an open family-friendly space for cultural and artistic events. █

port as the intersection for their trades with the Pingpu Tribe. Minnan Immigrants,

16

17


古蹟 Monument

蘆竹五福宮

Wufu Temple, Luzhu

乾隆 4 年(1739) 桃園市蘆竹區五福路 1 號

No.1, Wufu Rd., Luzhu Dist., Taoyuan City

蘆竹五福宮,俗稱「南崁元帥

第一進是三川門,次為正殿及後殿,

廟」,此廟見證了蘆竹的開發歷程。

主體建築之間以天井與迴廊兩側山

建築裝飾方面有精緻木雕、石雕與

牆共構,成為三進式的院落。面闊

交趾陶作品;雖為閩式風格廟宇,

三 開 間, 基 本 構 造 為「 硬 山 擱 檁

廟埕上卻有一聖蹟亭;後殿院落中

式」,有短小肥碩的趖瓜筒與垂花

還有一個「使者公穴」,為一間歷

吊筒、不少螭虎圖案的造型、八角

史悠久、供奉武財神的廟宇。

斗與方斗有眼斜唇底等,工法形式

蘆 竹 五 福 村, 在 清 代 屬 凱 達

聖蹟亭為兩層磚造四角亭,兩

漢人在桃園最早開墾的地區。相傳

側仍保留著當時捐獻者的石碑,具

1661 年鄭成功的軍隊征伐臺灣北部

有歷史價值。

時遺留了「玄壇元帥」的香火,被

一年當中較重要的祭典為農曆 3

視為神蹟而搭建茅廬奉祀;康熙末

月 16 日「玄壇元帥」的聖誕法會,

年,有廣東嘉應人在此與平埔族人

會 在 前 一 天 舉 行 繞 境; 此 外,7 月

從事交易;到了雍正年間,閩籍的

15 日中元普渡,前晚舉辦「放水燈」

漳、泉移民陸續湧進,這一帶也就

儀式,也是一年當中的盛典。▓

漸次開闢,形成聚落。 乾隆 10 年(1745), 地方信眾捐資,將茅廬改 建成為「玄壇廟」(又稱 「元壇廟」)。此後歷經 多次改、擴建及重修,增 建了聖蹟亭,到大正 13 年 (1924) 冬 重 建, 並 更 名 為「五福宮」。 五福宮格局縱深狹長,

18

特徵類似漳籍匠師在臺修的廟宇。

格蘭族「南崁四社」中南崁社,是

Wu f u Te m p l e h a s witnessed Luzhu's progress. Nicknamed "Nankan M a r s h a l ' s Te m p l e , " i t 蘆竹 Luzhu features elaborate Koji ceramics, with wooden and stone carvings. Though a temple of Minnan culture, there is a Shengji Incinerator from the Hakka. A "Messenger's Cave" is also found at the rear courtyard; it is an ancient temple worshipping the Martial God of Wealth. In Qing Dynasty, Wufu Village belonged to the Ketagalans, and is the earliest developed region in Taoyuan by the Han people. Legend has it that during the conquest, the incense ashes left by the Koxinga’s army were seen as a sign from Martial God of Wealth, thus a hut was built for worship. Further trading and immigration from the southern Chinese population turned the area into a settlement. In 1745, funds were gathered and turned the tiny hut into the Temple of Martial God of Wealth. Several renovations and expansions later, the Shengji Incinerator was added, and it was rebuilt plus renamed as Wufu Temple in 1924. The Minnan-styled temple has a narrowed layout, with san-chuan-men, a three-door entrance, leading to a threelayered courtyard; it features laying-beam like structure, wooden bracket sets, with traditional vegetation and auspicious animal designs. Another piece of history is the squared, double-layered bricked Shengji Incinerator with a stone carving of the original contributors' names. Two key ceremonies are held annually during the lunar calendar year: the Martial God of Wealth's birthday and parade on March 16th, and the Ghost Festival with launching of water lanterns in mid-July. ▓

19


古蹟 Monument

蘆竹德馨堂

DexinTang, Luzhu

明治 31 年(1898) 桃園市蘆竹區山鼻里 6 鄰 92 號

No.92, Shanbizi, Luzhu Dist., Taoyuan City

德馨堂是山鼻 里 陳 家 祠 堂, 為 蘆 竹少數形制保存良 好的閩南式傳統民 居, 可 作 為 祠 堂 空 間 之 代 表。 其 建 築 材 料、 構 造 及 裝 修 泥 塑 等 工 藝, 都 具 備了建築史及技術史之研究價值。

區)及桃澗堡(桃園)鹽務支館的

發的區域。山鼻陳家約在雍正年間

食鹽配銷,並承辦艋舺(今臺北)

由福建泉州府南安遷來,當時陳仲

學海書院、竹塹(今新竹)明志書

月率其弟來臺,在山鼻村一帶開墾,

院、新庄山腳(今泰山)義塾、龜

到乾、嘉年間已成為山鼻大姓。

崙嶺(今龜山)義塾等處之學務工

山鼻陳家登載於文獻上較知名 的人物是陳必懷,為來臺第三世,

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里坌堡(今新北市及桃園市部分轄

清代「南崁社」是桃園最早開

作。 明 治 30 年(1897) 接 受 臺 灣 總督府授配紳章。

是清代秀才(臺北府學生員)。光

明 治 31 年(1898), 陳 必 懷

緒 9 年(1883)清法戰爭,劉銘傳

倡議在山鼻建祠祀祖,捐銀 100 圓,

來臺興辦防務,曾任命陳必懷為八

隔年祠堂落成,由陳家宗親陳雲林

里 坌 堡

提名「德馨堂」(取陶淵明「斯是

「團防局

陋室,唯吾德馨」之意)。1902 年,

長」,保

陳必懷主持進主、入宅、安座、建

衛地方安

醮、謝土儀式。

寧;日治

德馨堂為閩式三合院建築,前

時代陳必

有門樓,屋脊有燕尾起翹,即因陳

懷負責八

必懷的秀才身分。▓

DexinTang is Sanbi Village Chen family's ancestral shrine, and one of the few best kept Minnan- 蘆竹 style traditional housing in Luzhu. Its materials, Luzhu structure and decorative clay provide excellent research value for the history of architecture and technology. The Chens emigrated from Fujian to Lamcam, the earliest developed area in Taoyuan and later became prominent in the 1700s. A better-known historical figure from the family is Chen Bi-Huai, a third generation immigrant and former Qing Dynasty's scholar. In 1883, Liu MingChuan, the Qing Dynasty's governor to Taiwan, assigned Chen to lead Bali's District Civil Defense Committee. He was later designated to salt distribution in Taoyuan, as well as took charge of administering schools nearby during the Japanese ruling era, and was awarded a gentry seal in 1897. In 1898, Chen proposed, and donated a big sum to building the family's ancestral shrine DexinTang. Its name, literally “Humbly Virtue,” came from a Chinese literati’s remark in the 4th century. This is a Minnan Sanheyuan-style building with arcade facade; the swallow-tailed design on the roof ridges accentuates Chen's scholarly status. ▓

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院長宿舍

宿舍群

古蹟 Monument

歷史建築 Historic buildings

前內政部北區兒童之家宿舍群(含院長宿舍) 民國 69 年(1980) 蘆竹區吉林路 34、36、38、40、42、44、46 號,長春路 5 巷 1 號、 長春路 3 巷 15 號 No.34, 36, 38, 40, 42, Jilin Rd., No.1, Ln. 5, Changchun Rd., No.15, Ln. 3, Changchun Rd., Luzhu Dist., Taoyuan City

前內政部北區兒童之家院 長宿舍暨員工宿舍群位於蘆竹 區長春路及吉林路口,鄰近南 崁高中、國中、國小,距離蘆 竹區公所約 5 分鐘車程,生 活機能便利,因都市發展,四 面環繞高樓住宅。 「前內政部北區兒童之 家」前身為臺灣省臺北育幼 院,初創於臺北北投,主要收容貧

與社區結合進行活化,並保留現有

困失養之兒童,因北投舊址設備老

環境氛圍,初步規劃為親子藝文開

舊、地域狹窄,遂遷至蘆竹中山路

放空間,延續北區兒童之家耕耘幼

現址,並於此地興建獨棟之院長宿

教工作之寓意。▓

舍以及員工宿舍,時光荏苒,整體 宿舍群見證臺灣幼保教育發展歷程。

Residence for Former Northern District Children's Home, Ministry of the Interior (with head’s dormitory) Among the high-rises at the intersection of Jilin Rd. and Changchuan Rd., the Residence for Former Northern District 蘆竹 Children’s Home stands conveniently near Nankan public Luzhu schools and a 5-minute drive from Luzhu’s District Office. The Northern District Children’s Home was the first provincial orphanage for disadvantaged children. Moved from Beitou to Luzhu for better spacing and facilities, with the Head’s and Staff’s dormitories built nearby, it saw progress with childcare in Taiwan. The Head’s dormitory showcased the architectural style of the 1960s in Taiwan. The building's materials and engineering reflect the modernization of public officials’ residence in the 1970s. Lush bushes surrounding the townhouses make it a unique sight. In 2014, it was designated as Monument, while in 2015, part of the staff’s dormitories were registered as Historical Building. The city government will turn The Residence into an open, family-friendly space to enjoy art and culture, and hope to embed its history into the community while keeping its original vibe and honoring the years of dedication to childcare by the Children’s Home. ▓

院長宿舍為本區宿舍群重最具 特色之建築,為獨門日式屋舍,略 具 1950 年代建築風格。整區建築材 料與工法反映早期住宅現代化過程, 呈現 1970 年代公有宿舍建築特色, 園區採用連棟巷弄配置,周遭植栽 茂盛,在蘆竹地區形成特有空間地 貌。民國 103 年院長宿舍被指定為 古蹟,隔年部分宿舍群登錄為歷史 建築。 園區未來將朝向委外營運方式

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23


龜崙溯源 龜山區

行政 分為 30 里 面積 75.02 平方公里 人口 152,432 人 (2016. 11 統計)

1

Guishan

黃繼炯公墓園 黃繼烔公墓園 Huang Jitong's Cemetery

龜山 Guishan

龜山舊稱「龜崙嶺」,主要地形為臺地,其次為丘陵,佔全區三分之二 的林口臺地(又名坪頂臺地)有三條河川:南崁溪、楓樹坑溪及大坑溪,而

龜山區

源於丘陵的有塔寮坑溪及兔坑溪,這些溪谷早期都有聚落形成,先民即以 「坑」為名,「楓樹坑」、「大坑」、「兔子坑」、「塔寮坑」都是聚落名稱,

Guishan

而這也成為龜山地名的特色。 在南崁溪的上、中、下游早期分別就有「龜崙社」、「南崁社」和「坑

龜崙嶺鐵道橋遺構

105

Remains of Guilunling Railroad Bridge

仔社」等平埔族聚落,是龜山最早開發之地。清初因地形險峻又有以強悍著 稱的龜崙社人出沒,少有漢人至此,直到雍正年間,才有閩客人士入墾,最 1

初多為客家人。乾隆年間,龜崙社與漢族修好,合力開闢了縮短路線的「龜 崙嶺新道」(取代雍正年間闢建的「龜崙嶺古道」)。光緒 17 年(1891), 臺灣巡撫劉銘傳規劃的鐵道路線從臺北新莊至龜崙嶺段,即以「龜崙嶺新道」

1

前龜山陸光三村活動中心 Former Community Center for Luguang Third Village, Guishan

為基礎,如今臺一甲線「第二尖山橋」及「大坑溪橋」下尚留存「龜崙嶺鐵

壽山巖觀音寺 Shoushanyan Guanyin Temple

道橋遺構」,為臺灣首條鐵路的遺跡。 龜山的文化資產包括地方信仰中心的「壽山巖觀音寺」、家族墓園的「黃 繼烔公墓園」等,見證漢人拓墾的足跡,「龜崙嶺鐵道橋遺構」代表臺灣邁

龜山憲光二村 Xianguang Second Village, Guishan

入近代化歷程,「前陸光三村活動中心」、「憲光二村」則是戰後移民所帶 來的另一篇章,可說是龜山歷史人文的縮影。▓

Guishan’s topography is mainly plateau and some hills, with Linkou Plateau taking up two-thirds of the land. Settlements near the three rivers in the plateau and two from the hills had names such as “Big Kēng,” “Rabbit Kēng” (kēng = pit), making it a feature of village naming. Settlements from the Pinpu tribe were found in the upper, mid- and lower streams of Nankan River, making this the earliest developed area in Guishan. Due to the rugged terrain and fiery Kulon people, few people from Han and only some Hakkas tried settling down in 1720s. In the next few decades, the Kulon made peace with Han people, and together they built the “The New Guilunling Road” to replace

24

the old one. In 1891, the provincial governor Liu Ming-Chuan used this road as foundation and planned a railway from Taipei’s Xinzhuang to Guilunling. Its remain can be found at the Provincial Hwy 1. Examples of Han people’s initial settlement efforts are found in The Shoushanyan Guanyin Temple and Huang Jitong’s Cemetery, with the Remains of Guilunling Railroad Bridge signalling Taiwan’s move towards modernization, with lives retold in Former Community Center for Luguang Third Village and Xianguang Second Village. Such are Guishan’s cultural snapshots. ▓

25


古蹟 Monument

壽山巖觀音寺

Shoushanyan Guanyin Temple

乾隆 60 年(1795) 桃園市龜山區萬壽路二段 6 巷 111 號

No.111, Ln. 6, Sec. 2, Wanshou Rd., Guishan Dist.,Taoyuan City

的凌霄寶殿。前者屬古蹟 指 定 範 圍, 重 建 於 大 正 4 年(1915),為名師陳應 彬 作 品, 並 於 民 國 52 年 (1963)年重修,增建左 右鐘鼓樓、山門與東西廳 等,形成二進深、面寬九 開間規模,其各式雕刻裝 飾均頗具水準。 寺內雕飾可分為木 雕、石雕、彩繪、剪黏泥

26

壽山巖觀音寺腹地寬廣且風景

塑等,木雕與彩繪多集中在三川門

秀麗,據傳乾隆 7 年(1742)順寂

與正殿的主軸上,石雕則集中於三

法師向普陀山恭請觀音佛祖神像來

川門,泥塑主要表現於屋面。屋頂

臺,行經現址時,因菩薩顯靈而安

剪黏及交趾陶為 1960 年代重修時名

奉神像於樹下;乾隆 28 年(1763)

匠陳天乞所作,現存部分交趾陶仍

由信士張志榮闢建為「三草庵」。

為原作,甚是難得。石雕及木雕均

乾 隆 58 年 (1793) 福 建水師提督兼

做工考究,造形優美,前檐廊的蟠

臺灣總兵哈當阿來臺綏靖盜患,經

龍石柱以觀音石雕成,呈「弓」字

此庵時許願建寺,戡平盜亂後,即

彎曲的龍身,不在柱的正面而是在

召集地方人士籌建本寺,至嘉慶 2

內側為其特色。

年(1797)完成,名為「壽山巖」;

自創建以來,壽山巖觀音寺已

哈總兵所題「慈航廣濟」匾額如今

成為桃園重要的宗教信仰中心,從

猶存,見證了這段歷史。

建築的格局與強調中軸線的配置,

壽山巖觀音寺之建築群目前大

都顯現其恢弘的氣勢,在宗教、歷

致可分為前方的觀音殿與後方增建

史、文化、藝術各面向均具價值。▓

Wide-opened with beautiful scenery, the Shoushanyan Guanyin Temple was said to be built upon a Buddhist Master procuring China’s Mt. Putou Guanyin Boddhisattva’s consent in 1742. In 1763, a religious 龜山 Guishan follower made additions. In 1793, Ha Dang-a, Chief of Fujian’s Navy and Taiwan’s Division Commander, pledged to expand the temple on the way to fighting bandits. He fulfilled his promise in 1797 with help from local gentry. Today, Ha’s inscription “Generosity at Giving” is seen to evidence its history. The Temple mainly divides into two: the front Guanyin Hall and the added backside Linsiao Hall. The former is designated as a Monument, rebuilt in 1915 by Master Chen Ying-Bin. In 1963, two bell-drum towers, the outer gate, and the east/ west halls were added to the Temple, turning it into a grand two-main-hall, nine-bay space with exquisite interiors. The interior is filled with splendid artwork. The wooden carvings and powdered paintings are mostly on the san-chuan-men (3-bay entrance gate) and the axis of the main hall with stone sculptures attached to the former and mud statuettes on the surface. The collage arts and Koji potteries were created by a renowned master Chen Tian-Qi in 1960s; one can still appreciate a piece of original Koji here. Another feature is the Guanyin-Andesite-made pillars at the front eaves, with carvings of curled dragons hidden inwardly. Now as Taoyuan’s religious center, the Temple’s architectural grandeur renders great religious, historical and artistic value. ▓

27


古蹟 Monument

龜崙嶺鐵道橋遺構

Remains of Guilunling Railroad Bridge

光緒 19 年(1893)

桃 園市龜山區萬壽路一段第二尖山橋及大坑溪橋下方 2nd. Jianshan Bridge and Dakengxi Bridge below Sec. 1, Wanshou Rd., Guishan Dist., Taoyuan City

臺 1 甲線上的「第二尖山橋」、

於彎曲而進行路線改良,臺北到桃

「大坑溪橋」橋下基座大有來頭,

園路線改為經萬華、板橋、樹林、

它們是清代臺北到新竹段鐵道橋樑

山佳及鶯歌。新路線開通後,廢線

遺構,是臺灣首任巡撫劉銘傳推動

的鐵道路基多改為道路使用,「九

近代化的重要證物。

芎坑木橋」及「九芎頭坑木橋」即

清代經龜崙嶺山區到桃園段的

於 明 治 40 年(1907) 改 建 為 一 般

鐵 道 完 成 於 光 緒 17 年(1891),

道路橋樑,並改稱「尖山橋」及「大

途中所架設之「九芎坑木橋」及「九

坑 溪 橋 」。 昭 和 5 年(1930) 進

芎頭坑木橋」,即為「第二尖山橋」

行道路橋樑拓寬工程,構造皆改為

及「 大 坑 溪 橋 」 前 身。 繼 任 巡 撫

RCT 桁橋;後「尖山橋」更名為「第

卲友濂曾以「北穿獅嶺洞隧百尋,

二尖山橋」。

南渡龜崙則坂踰九折,路工之難如

龜崙嶺鐵道橋遺構經多次改建

此。」形容龜崙嶺鐵道工程之困難

與拓寬,尚能清晰分辨出清代的橋

與獅球嶺隧道旗鼓相當。

基與橋臺、日治時期的橋臺及拱體

日治之初,由於清代所築鐵道

等結構,以及戰後民國時期的鋼筋

路線標準不理想,坡度大、路線過

混凝土構造,展現不同時代的土木 技術。 此古蹟至今仍是 道路橋基,橫跨塔寮 坑溪上游野溪,鄰近 土地多屬私產,不易 前往。▓

28

第二尖山橋 Second Jianshan Bridge

The pedestals of "Second Jianshan Bridge" and "Dakengxi Bridge" in Guishan are the remains of Taiwan's first railroad, evidencing the Qing Dynasty's first governor's leadership and 龜山 Guishan modernization efforts in Taiwan. Railway from Guilunling to Taoyuan was finished in 1891; the two 第二尖山橋 Second Jianshan Bridge wooden bridges built were bases for the aforementioned bridges. The succeeding governor saw its exceedingly challenging construction on par with the Shiqiuling Terminal in Keelung. Due to failures to meet the demands, and dramatic slope changes between Taipei and Taoyuan, the railway was rerouted via Wanhua, Banqiao, Shulin, Shanjia, and Yingge during the Japanese 大坑溪橋 Dakengxi Bridge era. The old railway and railroad bridges were later turned into highways and today’s Second Jianshan Bridge and Dakengxi Bridge. In 1930, the two bridges were reconstructed applying the reinforced concrete T-beam girder bridge structure. Guilunling Railroad Bridge underwent numerous reconstructions since its inception, showcasing different civil engineering techniques, such as the Chinese bridge foundation in 19th century, the Japanese abutment in the early 20th century, and the modern reinforced concrete structure later on. Crossing over the streams, the remains are well-kept, though private properties makes access difficult. ▓ 大坑溪橋 Dakengxi Bridge

29


歷史建築 Historic buildings

黃繼烔公墓園

Huang Jitong's Cemetery

乾隆 41 年(1776 )

園市龜山區文明路 29 號附近 桃

Wenming Rd., Guishan Dist., Taoyuan City

黃繼烔之 墓建於清朝, 規模宏大,格 局細緻,包括 墓 丘、 曲 手、 墓 碑、 墓 肩、 后土、土地公 等,除紀念黃 氏渡臺一世祖 黃繼烔的主 體墳塋外,園內還有思親亭及表述

黃繼烔為福建泉州安溪積德人,

黃家先賢黃世霧的「抗日義士紀念

清乾隆年間(1755 年前後)隻身來

碑」;墓園區內石雕多為 1963 年前

臺,開發垹坡(今樂善里)一帶,

後所雕,材質為觀音山石,頗具地

後邀胞弟等先後渡臺。200 多年來,

方特色。

族裔枝繁葉茂達數千人。 由於黃繼烔精通堪輿術,墓碑 對聯如「壬山丙向風光好,乙水辛 流景氣佳」、「紫氣東來徵吉象, 雲霞西起映嵐光」等,都透露風水 學的內涵及文學趣味。 墓園裡有一古墓碑,為嘉慶已 未年(1800)修墓時保留,墓碑上 方還刻了「垹坡」之老地圖;另有 抗日義士紀念碑,詳述黃家祖先世

Built in Qing Dynasty, the Cemetery is a sophisticated and grand-scaled architecture, commemorating pioneer Huang Jitong’s hardships in settling in Taiwan. A Parents Remembrance Pavilion and the Monument for a martyr fighting against the Japanese, Huang Shi-Wu, stand firmly aside. The use of Guanyin 龜山 Guishan andesite for most sculptures around 1963 turned this into a local feature. Huang was originally from Fujian and came to Taiwan around 1755. Having first developed a town in today’s Guishan area, he then invited his brothers to join him. More than two hundred years later, the Huang Family has rooted deeply, procreating thousands of offspring in Taiwan. Huang’s mastery of Feng Shui, along with ingenuity of such practice, can be savored from the couplets hanged next to the tomb: “Southfacing seat springs opportunity; rightly water flow breeds fortune” and “Eastward wind flourishes with blessedness; westward light teems with prosperity.” An ancient tombstone carved with the original town map where the Huang family rooted from was kept even under 1800’s renovation. The monument next to it described the Huangs’ fights against the Japanese, mirroring the history of those who also battled in Guishan. ▓

霧抗日事蹟,讓後人略窺臺灣割日 時,龜山民眾抗日的一頁歷史。▓

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31


歷史建築 Historic buildings

前龜山陸光三村活動中心 民國 57-58 年(1968-1969) 園市龜山區光峰路 43 號 桃 No.43, Guangfeng Rd., Guishan Dist., Taoyuan City

活動中心是 60 年 代 臺 灣 常 見 的兩層樓現代主義 樣式。目前再利用 作為「龜山眷村故 事館」,保存桃園 在地眷村文物,讓 社區居民產生認同 與凝聚力,自己來 說自己的故事。 民 國 38 年 (1949)國民政府遷臺,60 萬軍隊

光三村」建成於民國 55 年 (1966),

也來到臺灣,民國 45 年由故總統夫

入口的親子和樂雕像上,還有蔣宋

人蔣宋美齡主持的「婦聯會」發起、

美齡題字「陸光三邨」。幾年後自

華僑與工商界集資興建眷村。「陸

治會辦公室落成,辦公室後來再改

Former Community Center for Luguang Third Village, Guishan The Community Center for Luguang Third Village was built as a two-story building with modernist architectural design popular in 1960s in Taiwan. It has been restructured as Guishan Military Dependents’ Village Story Museum, encouraging 龜山 community building through their own storytelling. Guishan The Chinese Nationalists took over Taiwan in 1949 relocating an army of 600,000 here. In 1956, the then First Lady Ms. Soong Mei-Ling initiated National Women’s League of the ROC, fundraising with the overseas Chinese to build the villages for the army and their families. Luguang Third Village was thus established in 1966. The inscription of the Village’s name by Ms. Soong remained by the entrance to this day. The Community Center, formerly an office for the Association of Mainlander Chinese that was set up a few years after the village was built, now turned into a social space for the locals. Luguang Third Village was demolished and rebuilt as public housing. Nowadays the community center has transformed to be Guishan Military Dependents’ Village Story Museum, sharing the diverse village culture and creatively sharing the community feel and local history. ▓

為活動中心,成為社區鄰里交流集 會的重要場所。 眷村改建國宅後,活動中心現 保存為「龜山眷村故事館」,藉由 故事館的空間,多元呈現眷村文化, 推廣眷村的共榮情感和傳承地域文 史。▓

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33


歷史建築 Historic buildings

龜山憲光二村

Xianguang Second Village, Guishan

民國 57 年(1968) 園市龜山區明德路憲光二村 桃 Xianguang Second Village, Mingde Rd., Guishan Dist., Taoyuan City

其他眷村中多 已消失的文化 牆, 憲 光 二 村 仍保有且面貌 多 種; 位 於 村 子中央的自治 會 辦 公 室, 格 局 維 持 原 樣, 相當難得。 龜山憲光二村是桃園唯一的憲

此外村裡有許多年逾半百的老

兵宿舍,眷村生活紋理及各眷戶的

樹與素樸的水泥牆、牆上的塗鴉、

空間均完整保留,見證了臺灣 60 年

標語、國旗、巷弄,形成完整眷村

代的眷村生活型態。

的意象、時光的原味。除了供作戲

龜山憲光二村始建於民國 57 年

劇場景,未來將規劃為移民博物館,

(1968),當時建的是 100 戶的連

更活化利用憲光二村的空間,訴說

棟式 1 樓平房,有兩種格局;民國

移民的光陰故事。▓

62 年(1973)再興建 40 戶鋼筋混 凝 土、 洗 石 子 牆 面、 四 層 樓 的 職 務 官 舍, 因 此 村 中可見不同時期 的眷舍樣貌。 目前村內建 築多是甘蔗板隔 間 的 石 灰 牆, 外

Xianguang Second Village in Guishan is the only residence for Military Police in Taoyuan. The well-kept Residence’s interior allows for appreciation of military village life in 1960s in Taiwan. The Residence was originally built in 1968 as one-story 龜山 Guishan attached townhouses with 100 units. A 40-units, four-story reinforced concrete building with washed granolithic walls was later added for government use in 1973. The Village’s residences styled differently in each era. Most buildings had partition walls made of l i m e s t u ff e d b e t w e e n cane boards, with red bricks for external walls. The so-called "Cultural Wall" can still be seen at Xianguang Second Village, where it has virtually disappeared in other military villages. The Association’s office is at the center; what is most special is that the original layout and the broadcast system from early days were kept. There are many decades-old trees around. Together with plain concrete walls, graffiti, national flags, and alleyways shape up an image of a military village. The Village is now not only popular with TV dramas shooting but also is designated to be the future home for the Museum of Immigrants, showcasing their stories through times. ▓

圍 則 是 紅 磚 牆。

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35


桃仔花開

桃園區 Taoyuan

行政 分為 76 里

桃園忠烈祠

面積 34.8 平方公里 人口 433,534 人 (2016. 11 統計)

Martyrs Shrine, Tauyuan

4

Taoyuan

發源於龜山的南崁溪,在桃園區的虎頭山下轉個大彎,流向蘆竹、大園, 從竹圍漁港出海。

桃園區

桃園大廟口派出所 桃園景福宮

1

Taoyuan Taoyuan Damingkou Damingkou police police station station

Jingfu Temple, Taoyuan

乾隆 2 年(1737)粵人薛啟隆便是從竹圍漁港(昔為南崁港)登陸, 一路溯溪而上,披荊斬棘,並與南崁四社的凱達格蘭人折衝、交易,在東門 溪(南崁溪支流)西邊,把一片荒茅的「虎茅莊」開墾成桃樹成林的「桃仔 園」——清乾隆 12 年(1747)《重修臺灣府志》稱「虎茅莊」,乾隆 39 年 (1774)《續修臺灣府志》改稱「桃仔園」,光緒 14 年(1888)劉銘傳清 丈土地後又改做「桃園」。 漢人開墾有成後,內部卻產生矛盾,漳、泉兩派開始互鬥,嘉慶 11 年

桃園 桃園警察局日式宿舍群 Japanese-style Residence for Taoyuan Police Station

1

桃園車站舊倉庫

Taoyuan

Taoyuan station old warehouse

舊桃園縣警察局桃園分局 Former Taoyuan County Taoyuan Police Station

桃園大樹林橋 Dashulin Bridge ,Taoyuan

(1806),泉州人燒光了漳州人的茅草店屋,漳州人只好重起爐灶,往西移 到今天的中山、中正路口,建瓦屋,築土牆,蓋大廟「景福宮」安奉開漳聖 王;道光 14 年(1834)漳泉械鬥再起,土壁又改成石牆,東西南北各安一門, 形成一個長方形的桃園城。 光緒 19 年(1893),縱貫鐵路臺北到新竹段通車,桃園火車站設在城 南中正路上。 日本治臺後推行「市區改正計畫」,明治 37 年(1904)著手拆除城牆、 清理景福宮周邊市容,這一帶成為農產集散中心;沿著中正路(原長南街、 中南街)往火車站方向,陸續興建神社、武德殿、郡役所、街役場、稅務出 張所、米穀檢查所、學校以及各種會社支店、信用合作社、水利組合等機構 與宿舍,形成了行政、商業與文教新興區,也成為今日站前商圈的基礎。 桃園區有忠烈祠(昔桃園神社)、警察派出所日式宿舍群等,未來希望 透過文化資產活化再利用策略逐步串連並承接歷史記憶場域。▓ Originated from Guishan, Nankan River bends sharply around Taoyuan's Hutoushan ("Tiger Head Hill"), flowing through Luzhu and Dayuan, and enters the sea via Zhuwei Fish Harbor. In 1737 the Cantonese named Xue landed at the harbor, struggled his way upstream, finally succeeded in trading with the Ketagalans, turning the wasteland

36

to the west of Dongmen River into a fertile peach land. The area was cited as Humao (“Tiger Thatch”) Village and Taoziyuan (“Peach Garden”) respectively in the 5th and 6th editions of Taiwan Prefecture Gazetteer (1747 & 1774), and renamed Taoyuan in 1888 by Qing’s first governor to Taiwan. Conflicts emerged when the Han people prospered. The Zhang-Quan armed feud began in 1806 with the Quanzhouers setting the Zhangzhouers’ properties on fire, forcing the latter to build tile-roofed houses and mud walls from today's Zhongshan and Zhongzheng Rd. to the train station area for self-defense; Jingfu Temple was also built to worship Zhangzhou’s founder, The Sacred King. In 1834 the feud revived; the Zhangzhouers rebuilt the walls into a rectangular stone fort with gates on four directions, shaping today’s Taoyuan. The West Coast Railway Line began its operation between Taipei and Xinchu in 1893 with the Taoyuan train station set on Zhongzheng Rd.. The Japanese colonial government launched city improvement plans that set the foundation of today’s prosperous city center. In 1904, an agricultural produce distribution center was established following the demolishment of the walls and the cleanup of Jingfu Temple’s surrounding. Meanwhile, administrative, business and cultural entities such as Shinto shrine, Taoyuan Town Hall, Butokuden Martial Arts Dojos, tax agencies, rice and grain food terminal, credit unions, irrigation association, and schools emerged; these are bases of today's business district. Taoyuan's heritage sites, such as Martyrs Shrine (formerly Taoyuan Shinto) and Japanese-style Residence for Taoyuan Police Station, are valuable cultural assets that help bridge between the past and modern revitalization of the city. ▓

37


古蹟 Monument

桃園景福宮

Jingfu Temple, Taoyuan

嘉慶 15 年(1810)

園市桃園區中正路 208 號 桃 No. 208, Chung-chen Rd., Chung-ho Li, Taoyuan County

桃園景福宮又稱「聖王廟」,

景福宮正殿主祀開漳聖王,兼

座落桃園區市中心,既是信仰重地,

祀玄壇元帥,兩側配祀觀音佛祖與

也是古蹟。大廟座北朝南略偏東,

天上聖母,中央天井兩側的東、西

是一座面寬九開間兩進兩廊的四合

廳奉祀金母娘娘與註生娘娘。前後

院廟宇建築,從面對中正路的 4 柱

殿屋頂為全臺廟宇罕見的「重簷歇

3 間牌樓到前殿之間有寬廣前埕,

山假四垂」,建築形式精美,石雕

三川殿面寬三開間,正面牆堵多為

神龕雕工細緻,廟前空間寬廣,兩

歷史近百年的石雕作品,正殿寬敞

側花草扶疏,與火車站遙遙相對,

巍峨,內奉漳州人守護神——開漳

是桃園區的重要地標。

聖王。

38 38

之名逐漸傳開。

廟貌恢弘,地方上多稱「大廟」,

每年農曆正月 17 景福宮往大溪

景福宮的歷史可溯至乾隆 10 年

進香,遶境場面盛大壯觀;2 月 15

(1745), 墾 首 薛 啟 隆 捐 田 產 20

開漳聖王聖誕,酬神演戲熱鬧非凡;

餘 甲 倡 建; 嘉 慶 15 年(1810) 地

7 月 15 中元普渡是桃園市最盛大的

方善信簡岳等捐獻重建,有前中後

活動之一。景福宮不僅香火鼎盛,

三殿。咸豐 7 年(1857 年),桃園

以往是市民看戲與活動的據點,如

大旱,淡水同知恩煜於景福宮設壇

今仍是市民日常聚集聊天之地,既

祈雨,果然天降甘霖,景福宮靈驗

是信仰中心,也是日常生活處所。▓

Also named the “Temple of the Sacred King,” Jingfu Temple is a grand-scaled temple at the Taoyuan city c e n t e r. N i c k n a m e d “ T h e Taoyuan Temple” by the locals, it is both a religious center and a historic monument. 桃園 Taoyuan The south-facing temple is Siheyuan-styled with 9 bays, 2 main buildings and 2 corridors, with a wide-open front courtyard. There is a stone carving wall at the front nearing a century old, leading to the spacious front hall where the magnificent protective deity, “The Sacred King, Founder of Zhangzhou” is worshipped. Its history dates as far back as 1745, with close to 20 acres of land offered for construction; donations received in 1810 further allowed for three halls’ addition. The temple became well known since the 1857 Taoyuan drought, when ceremonial prayers for the rain have been answered. The temple’s front hall worships The Sacred King, with the God of Wealth next to it, and Guanyin Bodhisattva and Goddess of the Sea on the sides. The east and west hall each hosts the Goddess of Marriage and Child Birth and the Goddess of Fertility. Its double eaves hipped-roof structure with additional lifting is a rare, one-of-a-kind marvel in Taiwan’s temples. With sophisticated stone-carved effigies, spaciousness at the front and vegetation to the sides, and easy access from the train station, the temple is a key city landmark. Ceremonies at Jingfu Temple are carried out each lunar calendar year accordingly: prayers and parade at Daxi on the 17th day of the first Lunar month; celebration of The Sacred King’s birthday with boisterous folkloric plays on the 15th day of the second month and the “Ghost Festival,” the largest in the area on the 15th day of the seventh month. It was, and continues to be the locals’ spiritual center and popular hangout spot. ▓

39


古蹟 Monument

桃園忠烈祠

Martyrs Shrine, Tauyuan

昭和 10 年(1935)籌建

桃 園市成功路三段 200 號 No.200, Sec. 3, Chenggong Rd., Taoyuan City

桃園忠烈 祠位於桃園區 東北方虎頭山 西麓,前身為 日本神社,座 東北朝西南, 可遠眺市區, 從石階參道沿 山坡而下連接 火車站前的中 正路,隱然有 居高臨下庇佑萬民之意。

手水舍、鳥居、石燈籠、管理室、

日 治 昭 和 10 年(1935), 日

儲藏室、石階段、入口名稱座、東

本當局應皇民化運動籌建桃園神社,

司等,大致上維持原貌,整體配置

民 國 39 年

順應地形逐層而上,予人崇敬仰望

(1950) 改

的感受,更難得的是多採杉檜原木,

為 忠 烈 祠。

不著粉飾的大木結構也展現了蒼勁

臺日斷交後,

樸實之美,藝術價值極高,同時也

臺灣各地清

是歷史的見證。

除日本神社,

桃園忠烈祠供奉自鄭成功以降

唯獨桃園神

諸多先烈、抗日與革命殉難烈士及

社完整保存。

因公殉職的軍、警、消、民,平日

桃 園 神

開放瞻仰,每年舉行春秋祭禮。現

社的建築群

今政府定為「桃園忠烈祠暨神社文

極為可觀,本殿、拜殿、參道、中

Taoyuan’s Martyrs Shrine was formerly one of the Japanese Shinto shrines. Overlooking Taoyuan City, its condescending posture suggests itself as a protector of the people. T h e Ta o y u a n S h i n t o was built in 1935 during the 桃園 Taoyuan Japanization Movement, but changed into Martyrs Shrine in 1950. A complete demolition of the Shinto shrines has been ordered when Taiwan and Japan broke its diplomatic ties; only Taoyuan Shinto remains. An impressive array of architectural compound is found in the Taoyuan Shinto, including the honden (sanctuary), haiden (hall of worship), shamusho (shrine’s traditional administrative office) and temizuya (hand washing station for the worshippers) etc., mostly kept in its original form. Majestic and versatile, its architectural design not only adapts to the geographical landscape, but the use of cypress and fir exhibits the woodwork’s vigor and simplicity. The Shrine commemorates martyrs, officers and civilians who sacrificed for the country since Koxinga’s era. It is open on the weekdays, and holds an annual Spring Ritual. After the 1987 renovation, its designation as “Martyrs Shrine and Shinto Cultural Park” aims to revitalize the area. ▓

化園區」加以規劃活化。▓

門、枅垣、高麗犬、銅馬、社務所、

40

41


歷史建築 Historic buildings

舊桃園縣警察局桃園分局

Former Taoyuan County Taoyuan Police Station

民國 68 年(1979) 園市桃園區復興路 135 號 桃 No.135, Fuxing Rd., Taoyuan Dist., Taoyuan City

舊桃園分局保留了民國 60 年代 警察廳舍的標準式樣,全臺類似廳 舍僅少數得以留存。 戰後舊桃園分局接收了東本願 寺房舍作為辦公廳舍,其後陸續增 改 建; 民 國 44 年(1955) 新 建 二 層 加 強 磚 造 辦 公 廳 舍, 民 國 68 年 (1979)三層樓廳舍完工,武陵派 出所遷入一樓辦公,二樓以上為桃 園分局辦公處,主體建物外設有刑 事所、拘留所與柔道場。 舊桃園分局位於桃園市中心,

程密切相關,呈現早年桃園行政區

週邊都是機關用地,舊桃園市政府、

鄰近火車站的分布紋理,為體現桃

桃園警察局日式宿舍群都在左近,

園市為全國平均「年齡」最年輕的

選址及設立都與桃園都市發展的歷

城市,未來將再造為一處新穎空間,

Former Taoyuan County Police Station is one of the few police bureaus that have kept its standard layout in the 1970s in Taiwan. After Taiwan’s takeover by the Chinese Nationalists, this Police Station used the 1927-built Hagashi Honganji as its official building, and then reinforced with two brick storied additions in 1955. After the three-storied construction was completed in 1979, Wulin Police Station moved in to the ground 桃園 Taoyuan floor for police work, while the Taoyuan Branch operated from second floor and above. Prison, detention house, and judo hall were built outside main building. Located at the city center and surrounded by Japanese Residence and the old city hall, the former Taoyuan Police Station plays a key role in history thanks to the city's urban planning. Furthermore, a future base merging culture and creativity through exhibitions, performances and digital media incubators for emerging artists and entrepreneurs will be set up, showcasing Taoyuan as "the youngest city" in Taiwan. ▓

結 合 文 創 展 示、 藝 文 展 演、 媒 體 數位育成中心等 功 能, 作 為 年 輕 藝 術 家、 創 意 工 作者發展的實驗 基地。▓

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43


歷史建築 Historic buildings

桃園大廟口派出所

Damiaokou Police Station, Taoyuan

昭和 2 年(1927) 園市桃園區中正路 198 號 桃 No.198, Zhongzheng Rd., Taoyuan Dist., Taoyuan City

緊鄰桃 園大廟景福 宮東側中正 路上的大 廟口派出 所, 設 立 於 明 治 36 年 (1903) 。1920 年 代,景福宮 一帶進行市 區改正並將 「桃園保甲 聯合會議 所」與「警官派出所」合一,原派 出所重建,於昭和 2 年 (1927) 落成, 一樓為大廟口派出所,二樓是保甲 聯合會議所。民國 36 年大廟口派出 所合併桃園警察所之直轄派出所為 「景福分駐所」,繼續於此辦公。 本棟為洋式磚造文化瓦二層式

之工匠技術。其與周邊店屋有迫縮 段接,可說是店屋式的派出所。 桃園大廟口派出所位居市街發

The 1903-built Damiaokou Police Station nestles east to Taoyuan’s Jingfu Temple on Zhongzhen Road. During the 1920s’ City Improvement Plan, the building that was rebuilt in 1927 had the Police Station on the main floor, with a community-based Baojia Association (for law enforcement and civil control) on the upper floor. In 1947, both Damiaokuo and Taoyuan stations were merged and renamed as Jingfu branch 桃園 station, while its service continues. Taoyuan The two-storied brick-made building carries the hybrid features of 1920s’ public architecture: timber roof truss and reinforced concrete slab. While the roof and new ceramic tiles on the outer walls were replaced, the building's facade is in its original form, with the internal molding as a demo of its craftsmanship. The Police Station is attached to the neighboring shophouses. Damiaokou Police Station has been critical as a merger between two community social security systems - the Baojia Association from Qing dynasty and the police system under the Japanese ruling -, and is both architecturally and historically invaluable. ▓

展的重要區位,見證從清朝保甲制 度到日治時期警察派出所制度的結 合關係,為兼具建築及地方歷史價 值之文化資產。▓

建 築, 木 構 架 屋 頂 及 RC 樓 板, 具 1920 年 代 公 共 建 物 的 混 合 構 造 特 色。目前屋頂已改變、外觀也換貼 磁磚,但歷史建築的立面格局仍存; 內部保有原本裝修線腳,呈現當時

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45


歷史建築 Historic buildings

桃園車站舊倉庫

Taoyuan Station Old Warehouse

昭和 11 年 (1936) 園市桃園市桃園區萬壽路 3 段 241、243、245 號 桃 No.241, 243, 245, Sec. 3, Wanshou Rd., Taoyuan Dist., Taoyuan City

桃園車站舊倉庫推估是由新竹

運輸之歷史背景。

州 農 會 於 昭 和 11 年 (1936) 左右興

此洋式風格的素面倉庫,座南

建的洋式木造水泥浪瓦房倉庫——

朝北,屋頂為木桁架構造,屋身紅

「桃園農倉肥料配合所」。據《臺

磚造,兩面都有開口以便裝卸貨物,

灣日日新報》報導,這個配合所有

外覆水泥,強調功能性。山牆上開

三棟建物:平家工廠、國際通運株

有拱形百葉窗,並有一條切分山牆

式會社倉庫、倉庫,工廠內有發電

的橫飾帶,在兩側有圓形的承拱裝

機與各式機械,負責肥料的調製,

飾;屋頂採用輕巧的水泥浪板瓦,

之後儲存於倉庫並販賣給當時新竹

並開三角窗加強通風,桁架採中柱

州 的 農 民。 昭 和 13 年 (1938) 年 國

式桁架。目前結構之補強部分亦可

際通運改組為日本通運;戰後改隸

見時代演替之痕跡,具保存價值。▓

Taoyuan Station Old Warehouse was a Western-styled building with timber and concrete roof tiles; it was thought to be the former fertilizer factory and warehouse built around 1936 by the Farmer’s Association in the area. According to the Taiwan Daily News reports, this venue had three buildings: Pingjia Factory, International Express Ltd.’s warehouse, and another warehouse. The factory had generators and a variety of machinery for fertilizer production and storage, which 桃園 Taoyuan would be sold to farmers nearby. The International Express Ltd. was restructured to be Nippon Express Co., Ltd. in 1938, and re-designated again as Taoyuan Warehouse under Taiwan Provincial Express Ltd. after the war; the hanging sign “Taoyuan No.7” symbolizes area’s trade history. This is a plain, north-facing, Western-styled warehouse focused on utility. Brick-built with wooden roof truss, it has two openings to the sides to ease the goods’ loading and unloading. The arch-shaped window blinds sets on the gable; a horizontal frieze cuts it through and the round, and shows supporting arches on both sides. The roof is covered with light-weighted concrete plates, plus a triangular window for ventilation with a king post truss. One can find traces of history in the building’s reinforced components, making this worthy of preservation. ▓

臺灣省通運公司桃園倉庫,並留下 「桃園 7 號」的掛牌,反映出車站

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47


歷史建築 Historic buildings

桃園警察局日式宿舍群

Japanese-style Residence for Taoyuan Police Station

大正 9 年(1920) 園區中正路 77 巷 5.7.9.11.12.14.16.18.20.22 號 桃 No.5.7.9.11.12.14.16.18.20.22, Ln. 77, Zhongzheng Rd.,Taoyuan Dist., Taoyuan City

等, 以 及 各 種 會 社 支 店、 金 融 機 構。 周 圍 則形成了日本人居住 的宿舍群。 這個區域如今就 是桃園火車站前商圈, 桃園警察局日式宿舍 群就落在商圈的巷弄 裡。 宿 舍 為 日 治 時 期 「桃園警察局日式宿舍群」位

標準的公務員宿舍,以日式木造工

於桃園市中正路 77 巷,這一帶是舊

法構築,屋頂鋪設日本瓦,外牆有

日的行政與文教中心。

雨淋板,室內地板抬升鋪設木板,

追溯桃園市街的形成,清乾隆

原有 6 棟 12 戶,今存 4 棟 8 戶。

時期,漢人由南崁港溯南崁溪而上, 在荒莽中建立了聚落「桃仔園」, 以供奉「開漳聖王」的開基福德祠 為中心,後因漳泉械鬥,中心往西 移到今天的中山路與中正路口,興 建了景福宮安奉「開漳聖王」;漳 州人更建築了防禦性的城堡;清末, 基隆到新竹鐵路通車,桃園火車站 設在舊城南邊,城市因此往南擴張。

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日治時期拆除了城牆,在今天

由於交通便利、區域完整,未

的景福宮與火車站間,行政與文教

來定為「桃園 77 文創園區」加以整

單位紛紛設立,包括了郡役所、街

修、規劃,將成為桃園市區人文休

役場、警察局、稅務出張所、學校

憩的新據點。▓

Japanese-style Residence for Taoyuan Police Station sits on Lane 77, Zhongzhen Rd., an area that used to be the city’s administrative and cultural center. In 18th century, the Han people went upstream from Nankan port and built Taoyuan (literally “Peach Garden”) from a wasteland centered around a Land Deity’s 桃園 Taoyuan temple worshipping The Sacred King, Founder of Zhangzhou. Due to the Zhang-Quan armed feud, the Zhangzhou immigrants moved westward to today’s intersection of Zhongshan and Zhongzhen Rd., building Jingfu Temple worshipping the same deity and forts for self-dense. In late 19th century, the city expanded southward from the Taoyuan Train Station following the inception of the railway between Keelung and Xinchu. After the Japanese tore down the city walls, administrative, business and cultural units such as Taoyuan Town Hall, Police Station, tax agencies, and schools were set up between today’s Jingfu Temple and the Train Station, all surrounded by the Japanese-owned residences. Nowadays, the Residence in the alleys is just a few steps away from this bustling commercial area in front of Taoyuan Train Station. It is a typical government quarter during the Japanese ruling, featuring Japanese roof tiles, rainproof walls, and wooden pile dwellings. It had 6 buildings and 12 units; now only 4 buildings and 8 units remain. The easy access to the Residence has allowed for its new, future cultural designation as “Taoyuan 77 Cultural Park.” ▓

49


歷史建築 Historic buildings

桃園大樹林橋

Dashulin Bridge, Taoyuan

昭和 5 年(1930)

桃 園區長安街 30 巷口 Ln. 30, Chang'an St., Taoyuan Dist., Taoyuan City

大樹林橋位 於桃園火車站後 站,長安街 30 巷 前,跨越東門溪, 是桃園最早的三 座水泥橋樑之一。 東門溪是桃 園 古 城 的 東 界, 而桃園築城起因 於「漳泉械鬥」。

通往鶯歌的必經之路,也是當地居

嘉慶 11 年(1806)漳泉械鬥,

民當年躲避空襲之處,如今橋樑兩

「桃仔園街」漳州人的店屋被泉州

側尚留有飛機掃射的彈痕,橋樑結

人 燒 毀, 嘉 慶 14 年(1809) 漳 州

構依然完整,形式、造型都展現了

人開始從今天的中山、中正路口,

時代特色。▓

向火車站方向形成了「長南街」(中 南街),街區外圍築土壁以防泉人 再 襲。 道 光 14 年(1834) 漳 泉 再 鬥,土垣遂改為石堡,護住桃仔園 街,成為一個略呈長方形的石城,

Dashulin Bridge is b e h i n d Ta o y u a n Tr a i n Station right by Lane 30, Changan Street. It crosses over Dongmen River, and is one of Taoyuan’s earliest concrete bridges. The old city of Taoyuan 桃園 Taoyuan was first built due to the Zhang-Quan armed feuding; Dongmen River was its eastern border. In 1806, the feud began when immigrants from Quanzhou set the properties of those from Zhangzhou on fire. In 1809, Zhangzhou immigrants took the area from today’s Zhongshan and Zhongzhen Rd. to Changnan St. (toward the train station) and built ground walls for self-defense. In 1834, the walls were rebuilt as a rectangular stone fort that had covered today’s Taoyuan area, east to Dongmen River, west to Temple of the City God, south to Nanmen River and north to Beimenpu. Nowadays, Dongmen River has been transformed to East River Green Garden Pedestrian Zone. The Japanese-built, 86-year-old Dashuling Bridge was the only connection between Taoyuan and Yingge, and a refuge for the locals undergoing air raid. It is a well-kept, working bridge showcasing the era’s charm. ▓

東至東門溪,西達西廟(城隍廟), 南側大致以南門溪與大樹林庄隔開, 北邊與北門埔仔相鄰。 市中心的東門溪如今已加蓋, 成為「東溪綠園徒步區」。溪上的 老橋「大樹林橋」建於日治時期, 至今已有 86 年歷史,它曾是桃仔園

50

51


活水之鄉 八德區 Bade

行政 分為 48 里 面積 33.71 平方公里 人口 192,542 人 (2016. 11 統計)

八德中正堂 Zhongzheng Hall, Bade

八德區

八德位處桃園臺地與臺北盆地交接處,境內有多處天然湧泉,及人工開

Bade

鑿的陂塘、水圳,並以生產水稻及經濟蔬菜聞名,郊區仍可見老屋、田園、 圳道、水塘的景緻。

4

八德呂達川祠堂

八德地區早期為凱達格蘭族霄裡社生活領域,直到康熙末年才有漢人在

Lu Dachuan Ancestral Shrine, Bade

此活動的記錄。乾隆 6 年(1741)漢人薛啟隆與霄裡社通事知母六,利用臺 八德林奇珍古墓

地的地形落差、湧泉水源,合作開鑿霄裏大圳與陂塘,為拓墾提供良好的發

八德三元宮

展條件,灌溉當時山腳的番仔寮、三塊厝、南興莊、棋盤厝、八塊厝等聚落。

八德 Bade

Sanyuan Temple, Bade

其中「八塊厝」含莊頭、莊尾、稻埕頭、連城、舊城、城外、公館、租

八德廣福宮

倉八處,約為今天三元宮、區公所一帶,為此地名來源說法之一,另一說為 乾隆 10 年(1745)閩、粵移民到此定居有八姓,即謝、蕭、邱、呂、賴、黃、

114

Lin Qizhen's Tomb, Bade

Guangfu Temple, Bade

八德喻竹居

八德呂宅著存堂

Yuzhu Ju, Bade

Lu Family Abode ZhucunTang, Bade

吳、李,每姓各築一屋,故而得名。 大正 9 年 (1920) 改設「八塊庄」,轄區包括小大湳、大湳、茄苳溪、 下庄溪、八塊、宵裡等六區,劃歸新竹州桃園郡管轄。戰後取臺語諧音改名 「八德」,陸續有大量官兵及軍眷移入,而後又有來自馬祖的移民居住,各 地移民不斷融入於八德,豐富在地的文化內涵。 本區的文化資產包括見證清代漢人發展歷程的三元宮、廣福宮、林奇珍 古墓、呂宅著存堂、呂達川祠堂、喻竹居,及代表戰後軍眷移民的中正堂, 藉此窺見歷史長河的吉光片羽。▓ Bade is nestled at Taoyuan and Taipei's plateau junction, with abundant natural and man-made water system, and known for rice and greenhouse produce; farming landscape can still be seen on its outskirts. Formerly Ketagalan's Xiaoli Village, Han people's activities were seen only after 1710s. Terrain drops and water sources allowed for the villagers and the Han's collaboration in 1741, setting up irrigation for farming and into nearby villages, including "Eight Land Pieces." "Eight Land Pieces" roughly covers today's Sanyuan Temple and the District Office. Its naming either originated from the eight designated sections in the area, or

52

referred to the eight Han families who settled here in 1745. Set as "Eight Villages" in 1920, it was later re-named as "Bade." With military personnel and their families, plus immigrants from Mazhu (the outer island) settling in, Bade became more culturally diversed. Bade's cultural snapshots include examples of Han people's settlement: Sanyuan and Guangfu Temple, Lin Qizhen's Tomb, Yuzhu Ju, and the Lü Family Abode and Ancestral Shrine, along with post-war military family lives in Zhonghzheng Hall. ▓

53


古蹟 Monument

八德呂宅著存堂

Lü Family Abode ZhucunTang, Bade

大正 8 年(1919)重建 園市八德區興仁里庄頭 9 號 桃 No.9, Zhuangtou Xingren Li., Bade Dist., Taoyuan City

呂氏為漢人 移墾八德的大姓 之一 , 根據族譜記 載來自福建漳州 詔 安 二 都 秀 篆, 屬呂萬春房支裔 孫。 乾 隆 末 年, 呂氏族人集合 五十幾房共同出 資購買田產並興 建「著存堂」,為萬春公的祠堂,

圖案;彩繪為名匠邱鎮邦所作;擂

也是管理田產收租之公館,又名上

金彩繪尤其精彩;正堂與橫屋的窗

公 厝。 光 緒 11 年 (1885) 呂 登 元 中

櫺上方有書卷、桃、石榴等具有寓

舉,更有族人拓展至大溪,呂氏家

意的泥塑;並採用日治時期的洗石

族移墾有成,落地生根、開枝散葉。

子竹節窗櫺與綠釉花磚,展現地域

著存堂創建雖早,但現狀主要 重建於日治大正 8 年 (1919),據彩

著 存 堂 的 軒 亭 於 民 國 85 年

繪上落款「秋菊育佳色時在甲子 季

(1996) 遭 風 災 損 毀, 經 考 證 現

之月 邱鎮邦塗筆」, 甲子年為大正

場遺構及舊照片後,於民國 105 年

13 年 (1924),推測歷經數年建築才

(2016)復原,並在地坪、牆面、

裝修完成。

屋脊剪黏等處可見原貌與後來修補

重建的著存堂規模為三合院並

的對比,凸顯求真的修復精神。

帶軒亭,建築本體結構系統為承重

呂宅著存堂呈現八德地區漢人

牆與木構造。正廳牆體由磚、石 ( 條

的拓墾精神,在歷史意義與建築特

石、卵石 ) 及木材構成,木作由名

色上皆有很高的價值。▓

匠葉金萬主持 , 木雕具豐富傳統吉祥

54

時代性的建築工藝。

Fuxing, formerly named "Jiaoban Mountain," i s Ta o y u a n ' s l a r g e s t administrative area. With rich forestry resources, and Dahan River flowing over, it has always been Atayal Tribe's home. From Qing Dynasty to the Japanese colonial times, the export of wood, camphor, coal and tea in bulk made Daxi a bustling hub. As home to the Atayal Tribe, they fought against the colonial government's 八德 looting attempts of the resources, but were eventually put down with iron fists Bade from Office of the Taiwan Governor-General. Jiaoban Mt. has always been a strategically important place. It was a hub between Daxi and Yilan areas during colonial days, and where Office of the Taiwan Governor-General started the "Savage-Taming Operations," turning it as the then administrative and economic center for mountain products. With splendid bird’s-eye view to Dahan River and nearby mountain ranges, it also became a tourist hotspot over time. Several architecture relay stories of colonial rulings over the Aboriginals: "Xufeng Ge" (“ge” literally means “pavilion”) and "Granite Base Governor-General Sakuma Memorial" for the Japanese officers; plus the post-war built “Jiaoban Mountain Guest House,” “Xikuo Suspension Bridge,” and its remains connecting the plateau with the Jiaoban Mt., etc. Lastly, there is the uniquely designed Tuba Church that bears witness to indigenous people’s belief in Western religion. ▓

55


歷史建築 Historic buildings

八德三元宮

Sanyuan Temple, Bade

嘉慶 8 年(1803) 桃園市八德區中山路 1 號

No.1, Zhongshan Rd., Bade Dist., Taoyuan City

八德三元宮 主 祀 堯、 舜、 禹 三 官 大 帝, 分 掌 天、地、水三界。 道 教 認 為「 天 官 賜福,地官赦罪, 水 官 解 厄 」, 在 披荊斬棘的墾殖 初 期, 為 先 民 重 要的精神依靠。 據《淡水

56

美。

廳誌》的記載

木作方面,以八德名匠葉金萬

研 判, 八 德

的作品為著,技藝精湛,鼇龍與大

三元宮最早

象鏤雕生動,斗栱曲線多,瓜筒修

在 乾 隆 52 年

長、瓜腳纖細,別具一格,並留下

(1787) 創建,

落款。石雕則是惠安張火廣作品,

至遲在嘉慶 8

三川殿前的抱鼓石及龍、虎邊的石

年 (1803) 已

雕都極精彩;而匠師陳天乞於民國

成, 初 為 土

56 年(1967)參與修屋頂時所作剪

埆小廟,大正

黏泥塑,皆值得細細觀賞。

14 年 (1925)

三元宮最著名的是農曆二月初

地方仕紳贊

二的祈龜活動,每年地方首長都會

助重建,奠定今日規模;後於民國

前來參與,並吸引祈願、還願的信

56 年(1967)、89 年(2000)、

眾共襄盛舉。八德三元宮既為地方

104 年 (2015) 數度修繕,其木雕、

信仰中心,是墾拓發展史的見證,

石雕、泥塑仍保有傳統建築工藝之

更是貼近常民的傳統藝術館。▓

S a n y u a n Te m p l e worships the Three Great Rulers in ancient China Emperors Yao, Shun, and Yu the Great. As Taoists’ S k y , E a r t h a n d Wa t e r Gods bestowing blessings, forgiveness, and counters adversity, these offered key spiritual support for the pioneers. 八德 The official historical Bade records showed that it was built as a tiny earthen temple between1787 and 1803, but funding from local gentry in 1925 lends its grandeur. Its traditional woodwork, stone carving and mud sculptures were kept even after renovations in 1967, 2000 and 2015. Featured woodwork from Bade’s renowned artisan showcases vivid animals and bracket arched lines. Coupled with sublime rock sculptures in front of the temple from the Chinese master Zhang Huo-Guang, and Koji ceramics added onto the roof by another local master Chen Tian-Qi in 1967, the temple is a brilliantly exquisite blend of artwork. The most eye-catching “offering, return and request of the turtle” ceremony takes place yearly on the 2nd day of the second lunar month. It is popular among worshippers, and a must-show event for local leaders. In essence, Sanyuan Temple is the locals’ to-go place for history, religion and folk art. ▓

57


歷史建築 Historic buildings

八德廣福宮

Guangfu Temple, Bade

乾隆 46 年(1781)

桃 園市八德區建興街 42 巷 Ln. 42, Jianxing St., Bade Dist., Taoyuan City

八德廣福宮 座落離三元宮約 400 公 尺 的 興 豐 公園一隅,福德 正神在此護佑地 方長達 200 年以 上,據大正 5 年 (1916) 的寺廟調 查資料顯示,廣 福宮位於桃澗堡 八塊厝庄四百四十四番地,創立於

(1925),地方人士利用三元宮重修

乾隆 45 年 (1780),祭祀範圍為八塊

完竣後所餘石材,將廣福宮略加修

厝庄民三千餘人。

補,並以小神像取代刻石。今廟內

目前廟前立有石碑,原記載當

的廣福宮改建前舊照片,可見當時

年捐獻名錄,字跡多已模糊,仍可

的 純 樸 樣 貌。 民 國 68 年(1979)

見 刻 有「 乾

眾信士倡議並重建,廣福宮有了嶄

隆辛丑年冬」

新面貌,新廟廟身單開間,天花板

字 樣, 辛 丑 年

彩繪有舞獅滾繡球;目前廣福宮融

為 乾 隆 46 年

入鄰里公園,成為都市空間的一環。

(1781), 印 證

隨著都市化發展,舊有的八塊

了創廟的歷

厝紋理已難復見,但從廣福宮的存

史。

在,保留先民拓墾的印記,並繼續 廣福宮建

Guangfu Temple, built in 1780 and about 400 meters from Sanyuan Temple, worships the Lord of Blessing and Virtue, a protector of local residents for over 200 years, according to the temple’s record in 1916. A piece with great 八德 historic value is the now Bade illegible donors’ list for the restoration carved on an ancient stela on the left of the temple’s entrance, written with “Winter of 1781” on its bottom to denote temple’s founding year. Initially, a spiritual tablet was carved to worship Guangfu Temple’s Lord of Blessing and Virtue. In 1925, new statues of the Lord made from leftover materials from Sanyuan Temple’s renovation replaced the original tablet; a picture of a pre-renovated Guangfu Temple paints its simplicity. Its restoration was finally completed in 1979. A single-chambered Temple, you will see a traditional wall painting of five lions rolling an embroideredball on the roof. Now it sits in a local park and is an integral part of the city. Even with the modernization, Guangfu Temple continues to remind us of the ancestors’ struggle, while bestowing blessings upon us all. ▓

扮演守護地方信眾心靈的角色。▓

立之初以石碑 刻 字 為 神, 直 到 大 正 14 年 圖片提供 八德三元宮 The picture provided by Sanyuan Temple, Bade

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59


歷史建築 Historic buildings

八德呂達川祠堂

Lü Dachuan Ancestral Shrine, Bade

大正 11 年(1922)重建

桃 園市八德區廣興 5 街 25 號 No.25, Guangxing 5th St., Bade Dist., Taoyuan City

「八德呂達川祠堂」與「著存

在建物中軸線上是三開間規模

堂」同為呂萬春一脈,為呂達川派

的「正堂」,兩側的橫屋四開間;

下裔孫於清乾隆年間移墾八德後所

正立面五開間,為臺灣北部客家民

建,又名為下公厝,堂號「貽訓堂」

居常用的「五間見光」 ;屋內皆設「巷

是 取 自 家 訓「 萬 古 貽 訓, 根 於 孝

路」作為內部空間通道,也是近山

友」。族人呂蕃調發展至大科崁 ( 今

地區客家民居常見作法。

大溪 ),於嘉慶 18 年 (1813) 與李炳

呂達川祠堂牆基採卵石砌,上

生 ( 李騰芳之父 ) 共同發起、籌建大

作斗子砌或土埆牆,屋脊為客家民

溪福仁宮,其後嗣呂建邦、呂傳琪

居常用的火形馬背,反映客家建築

等亦為大溪發展過程重要的地方仕

的特徵。

紳。

60

八德呂達川祠堂代表呂氏家族 大 正 11 年(1922) 重 修 貽 訓

於八德的開墾足跡,亦聯繫著大溪

堂,當時留下「先明舊德」與「祖

的發展,具地方歷史意義;建築保

澤綿延」等匾額,重建的格局為座

存客家民居特色,並與前方尚存的

東北朝西南的合院,堂前有水池,

風水池及鄰近土地公廟 ( 東興宮 )、

民國 38 年(1949)增建左外橫屋,

老樹、公園,形成都市內別具歷史

成為今日樣貌。

氛圍的空間。▓

Both the Ancestral Shrine and Lü Family Abode ZucunTang were built around mid- to late1700s, after Lü immigrated to Bade area; its clan name, Yixun (literally “Family Lessons”) Hall came from the family’s guidance of “timeless lessons rooted in filial piety and brotherhood.” Later, another clansman moved to today’s Daxi and built “Furen (Blessed) Temple,” with his offspring becoming Daxi’s 八德 Bade well-known local gentry. In 1922, Yixun Hall was renovated and turned into a sectioncompound building sitting on northeast, with a pond to the front hall. In 1949 the left row house was added and turns into today’s look. Its architectural layout is that of three-bay “Main Hall,” with four-bay row houses to both sides. One can see two typical Hakka housing features: the front colonnade and “alley paths” as passage within the houses. Other Hakka architectural designs include the sun-dried soil bricks with pebble-stoned base, and a roof with “saddled” concave ridge-line. This building represents the history of Lü family pioneers in Bade and Daxi area. The Hakka-styled architecture with its Feng Shui pond, nearby land deity’s temple, old trees and a community park makes this a space filled with history. ▓

61


歷史建築 Historic buildings

八德喻竹居

Yuzhu Ju, Bade

昭和元年(1926) 桃園市八德區霄裡路 468-1 號

No.468-1, Xiaoli Rd., Bade Dist., Taoyuan City

喻竹居位於霄裡, 具地域傳統合院建築風 貌,門戶木作、彩繪及 剪黏均富特色。霄裡李 家是來自漳州的閩南 人,入臺後居於鶯歌, 宗祠及祖墳皆在鶯歌獅 子 頭, 在 霄 裡 則 建 有 「喻竹居」及「唐朝居」。

養著鬥魚。

喻竹居因屋後桂竹林而得名,

霄裡地區原屬凱達格蘭族霄裡

正廳為祭祖空間,門戶是有活動式

社,當時霄裡社主要社域在在南崁

門鎖的檜木門板,大門上方的匾聯,

溪上游,即今日八德霄裡里與竹園

以紅色冰裂紋線條打底,四周圍繞

里(後來往南拓及龍潭)。乾隆年

著漂亮的玻璃剪黏裝飾,甚具特色;

間,漢人薛啟隆入墾桃園,與霄裡

左護龍已頹圮,右護龍仍完整,門

社通事知母六合作,利用此地理環

上匾聯寫著「蘭斯馨」3 個優雅的

境高低差所形成的水脈、湧泉,開

大字;宅前堆置古老石臼,排滿了

鑿水圳與陂塘,灌溉田園,遂有「看

大大小小的醬料缸,主人家在裡頭

不盡的霄裡田,吃不完的霄裡米。」 廣為流傳。 喻竹居代表漢人拓墾霄裡的歷 程,而今霄裡仍是湧泉處處,十幾 個各有特色的浣衣空間,呈現人與 自然環境的互動關係,亦為此地獨 特風貌,老屋、宗祠、湧泉、水圳、 陂塘、田野,構成霄裡地區的文化

Yuzhu Ju (literally “residence”) is in Xiaoli, a building with traditional section-compound designs, featuring wooden door, paintings and Koji ceramics. Originally from Zhangzhou, China, the Li family settled and built Ancestral Shrines and Tombs in Yingge in northern Taiwan, and Yuzhu Ju and Tang Dynasty Ju here. Known for the bamboos at the back of the building, its main hall is the ancestral shrine, with a latched cypress door. The inscribed plaque above the doorframe is set against a red crackled design, and adorned with glass collage. The left wing room is decayed, but the right one is well-kept, with another plaque gracefully inscribed “Far-fetching Scents” (refers to the 八德 fame of good names, like good scents, reaches far). An old stone Bade mortar and several sauce preservation pots lay in the front yard. “Xiaoli” was the community name of Taiwanese aboriginal tribe Ketagalan; now became Taoyuan City Bade area’s Xiaoli and Zhuyuan Village. In 18th century, the Han people came and collaborated with Ketagalan’s liason for its development, redirecting several spring sites into one Xiaoli Pond, allowing year-round agricultural irrigation. Xiaoli is widely known for its “Infinite lands to the sight with infinite rice to the mind.” Yuzhu Ju represented Han people’s development of Xiaoli in Bade. The area is known for abundance in bubbling s p r i n g w a t e r. A n area where human activity blends in the nature through several laundering spots, plus known for its unique abundance with historical buildings, water sources, and farmlands, it is well worth a visit. ▓

景觀,值得探索。▓

62

63


歷史建築 Historic buildings

八德林奇珍古墓

Lin Qizhen's Tomb, Bade

同治三年(1864) 園市八德區建興街 92 巷 桃 Ln. 92, Jianxing St., Bade Dist., Taoyuan City

八德林奇珍古墓立碑於清同治 3 年(1864 年)座落家族墓園,陵 墓成圓形丘狀,面向屯墾農園,墓 旁植樹,乃墓樹成拱庇蔭後人並祈 福社稷,為清代開拓有成之民間式 樣。 墓碑陰刻仿宋體,其中「澄邑」 代表林二公林奇珍祖籍福建漳州海 澄縣,推測其約出生於乾嘉交會之 際的 1796 年前後,來臺時間大約在 1820 年左右,為清中葉八德地區漢

區之開發史,於原址鄰近之興豐公

人墾拓之歷史直接見證。墓碑銘為

園內設置林奇珍古墓紀念碑牌。▓

Lin Qizhen’s Tomb was set at the family tomb in 1864. A round hill-shaped tomb, it faces farmland, with trees planted next to it as token of blessings for the offspring (typical of Qing Dynasty’s commoners). Inscriptions on the Tomb found “the state of Chenhai,” referring to a particular area in Guangdong Province, China, with Lin Qizhen born c.1796, and came to Taiwan c.1820. Its historical value lies in it being a direct source of evidence of Han people’s reclamation efforts in Bade during the Qing 八德 Dynasty, and a more than 150-year-old mountain-shaped stone Bade table with folkloric flair. In 2009, the Tomb was moved due to Bade’s redevelopment plans. To highlight Bade’s reclamation history, the Taoyuan County government placed a memorial tablet for the tomb in a park near its original site. ▓

山形陰刻仿宋體墓碑,年代亦超過 150 年,使古墓 具有歷史文化 價 值, 並 足 以 表現地域風貌 或民間藝術特 色。 民 國 98 年 因逢八德地區 擴大及變更都 市計畫而遷移 墓 葬, 古 墓 碑 牌 存 於 林 家, 為彰顯八德地

64

65


歷史建築 Historic buildings

八德中正堂

Zhongzheng Hall, Bade

民國 53 年(1964) 園市八德區重慶街 53 巷 2 號 桃 No.2, Ln. 53, Chongqing St., Bade Dist., Taoyuan City

八德中正堂原為民 國 53 年(1964)由國 防 部「 軍 中 同 袍 儲 蓄 會」運用盈餘選定陸軍 基地附近土地,由國軍 自行設計、建造的軍中 文康保健中心,提供國 軍官兵休閒娛樂,也開 放當地居民與眷村眷屬購票觀賞電

的功能也隨之式微,逐漸頹圮。歷

影的場所。

經保存與修復再利用,目前由桃園

60 年代以來,中正堂成為當地

市立圖書館大湳分館使用,做為藝

民眾看電影或集會的共同生活記憶;

文推展及在地居民終身學習場所,

雖名為集會堂,但其作為戲院功能

發揮歷史建築保存及活化再利用功

之型制完整,外觀形式風格表現出

能。

臺灣現代建築的樣式,呈現軍工建

中正堂保留完整建築外觀,走

築的營造水平,亦延續二次大戰以

進室內,抬頭一望就是屋頂桁架,

前裝飾主義及現代主義建築之價值。

自然光從面東的三角玻璃窗灑進挑

高空間,新設的媒體室用作放映空

代, 隨 著 社

間與展覽空間,牆面上方保留電影

會 變 遷、 都

放映孔;一樓閱覽區保留了當年電

市化的發展,

影院裡起伏的階梯,連座的閱覽椅

軍隊移防後

連結當年排排坐、看電影的舊時記

附近眷村因

憶。透過細緻與體貼的改造,保留

改建而解體,

居民寶貴的共同記憶,並再次融入

中正堂原作

社區的生活,翻轉歷史空間讓中正

為官兵娛樂

堂活化再生。▓

8 0

66 66

In 1964, surplus from R.O.C. Military Personnel Savings Administration under Ministry of Defense was given to the army for a piece of land for Zhongzheng Hall. As an army-designed and built cultural and 八德 Bade recreational center, it was open to their families and local residents as well for movie watching. The Hall’s usage for movie watching or gathering was shared memory among local residents in the 1970s. Though named “Auditorium,” it also had theatrical function. It is a skillfully built modern architecture with prewar Art Deco and Modernist features. In the 1990s, social changes, urbanization plus removal of the army base had the military dependents’ housing redeveloped, and the Hall’s recreational function has declined. With restoration efforts, Taoyuan City Library’s Danan Branch now uses it as a locale for continued education and cultural events. Zhongzheng Hall’s exterior was well-kept; walking in, one readily sees raised roof truss and sunshine from the east-facing quarter windows. The new multimedia room serves as screening and exhibit room, with the old wall’s drilled-hole for movie projection on display. First floor’s reading area kept the stairs and a few rows of old-fashioned attached reading seats. Such examples of thoughtful building renovation allowed for cherishing memories while re-integrating its history into today. ▓

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河運老鎮 大溪區 Daxi

大溪太武新村 行政 分為 27 里 面積 105.2 平方公里 人口 93,981 人 (2016. 11 統計)

大溪原為凱達格蘭族霄裡社與泰雅族等原住民散居之地,霄裡社人稱大 漢溪為 TAKOHAM,泰雅族語意指「大水」,漢人音譯為「大姑陷」,後來 認為大姑陷的「陷」字不祥,改稱為「大姑崁」。 同治五年(1866),地方仕紳李騰芳中舉,庄民為彰顯地方功名,再將 「大姑崁」改成「大科崁」。光緒年間巡撫劉銘傳在此設立北區撫墾局,改 大科崁為「大嵙崁」,大正 9 年(1920)日本人再改為「大溪」沿用至今。 清領時期,大溪是淡水河流域最上游的河港,也是當時臺灣最內陸的港

3

Zhaiming Temple, Daxi

大溪蓮座山觀音寺 Lianzuashan Guanyin Temple, Daxi

大漢溪

時經營米、鹽、河運等生意,促進當地繁榮。李炳生則為李金興家族發跡的 重要人物,開闢「月眉通路」,帶動了米穀及蔬果產業輸出,而其三子李騰 芳中舉,進一步使李家獲取強大的政商影響力。 由於地理位置的條件優越,大溪商業發展蓬勃,從清朝至日治時代,地 方信仰中心的寺廟、仕紳望族建立的豪華宅第,茶、米、樟腦、木材等富商 興蓋的連綿街屋,乃至日治時期的官方建築及宿舍群等,民國後兩蔣時代留 下的行館與陵寢,呈現了大溪地區多元而豐厚的歷史文化內涵,其古蹟與歷 史建築數量之多,層次之豐富,值得仔細遊賞。▓ Daxi used to be home to Ketagelan and Ayatal aboriginals. The name Daxi has been adapted from Atayal’s “Takoham,” which means “big creek” in the tribal language, or “big ham” in mandarin. Several reasons prompted Daxi’s name changes: 1) Han people’s concern of “ham,” an “unlucky” sound in mandarin; 2) to celebrate one of Li family’s success in passing the imperial examination in 1866; 3) administrative changes in late 19th century to, eventually, 4) the Japanese naming it

4

大溪區 Daxi

Tahan River

大溪簡氏古厝

7

Historical Residence of Jian Family, Daxi

大溪陵寢

平路、中央路與中山路老街上的連排店屋(街屋),可見當年萬商雲集的盛

第」,造就大溪繁盛的木器家具業;並出資開圳奠定農業灌溉發展基礎;同

大溪老城區 Daxi Old Street

Historical Residence of Jian Songde, Daxi

運,成為仕紳望族,其中林平侯為板橋林本源家族的奠基者,興建「通議

Li Tengfang Mansion

大溪齋明寺

大溪簡送德古宅

而造就大溪發展興盛的兩大推手林平侯與李炳生,依靠大漢溪的商貿河

大溪李騰芳古宅

3

口,舉凡農產品、日用品、茶葉、樟腦油、木材等,都在大溪轉運,目前和 況。

68

Taiwu New Village, Daxi

Daxi Mausoleum

慈湖陵寢

大溪 Daxi

Cihu Mausoleum

大溪林宅梅鶴山莊 Lin Family Meihe Villa, Daxi

Daxi in 1920. During Qing empire’s ruling, as the highest inland port in the Tamsui river system and the most land-bound in Taiwan, Daxi became the transporting hub for agricultural produce, commodities, tea leaves, camphor oil, timber etc. A row of commercial street-houses on Heping and Zhongshan Rd. offers a glimpse of prosperity from the past. Both Lin and Li families played a key role in Daxi’s development through Dahan River’s strategic transportation hub, and became local gentry. The Lin family built Fort Tongyidi, a grand stone architecture, which helped with the boom in the local woodwork and furniture industry. They also invested in, and built the waterway to improve farming, plus ran businesses in rice, salt and river transport. The Li family, on the other hand, opened up “Yuemei Passageway” which enabled export of grains and produce; after one of the Li’s passed the imperial examination and secured a seat in the government, the family began exerting more influences in politics and business. Given its strategic location, Daxi’s boom from the Qing Dynasty to the Japanese colonization led to the construction of temples, wealthy locals’ mansions, trading townhouses for tea, rice, camphor, wood, etc., official and staff residences for the Japanese, as well as guesthouses and mausoleums from the two former Chiang presidents. The impressive number of historic sites in Daxi caters a cultural and historical feast worth exploring. ▓

69


古蹟 Monument

大溪蓮座山觀音寺

Lianzuashan Guanyin Temple, Daxi

嘉慶 6 年(1801)

桃 園市大溪區瑞安路 2 段 48 巷 28 號 No.28, Ln. 48, Sec. 2, Rui'an Rd., Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

蓮座山巍峨 獨立於大漢溪 畔,觀音寺坐落 其上,從「百步 雲梯」拾階而 上,但見寺前老 榕蒼勁,枝葉扶 疏,視野遼闊, 可俯瞰大漢溪寬 闊蜿蜒的河階,遠眺層疊起伏的山

雕細琢,做工考究。「一進式廟宇

巒。

三川殿前築軒」形制,是觀音寺最 嘉慶 6 年(1801),粵人鍾房

大的建築特色。寺旁林蔭另有一座

緒於蓮座山建寺,主祀觀音佛祖,

建於昭和年間的奎星樓(惜字亭),

配 祀 三 官 大 帝。 明 治 37 年(1904

供奉文曲星君,祈求文風昌盛,兼

年),大溪仕紳募款重修,增建拜

有字紙爐的構造及廟宇的飛簷筒瓦,

亭,昭和 9 年(1934 年)將舊四柱

其上飾以吉獸紋樣及浮雕,十分華

亭改為「八柱式歇山重簷拜亭」,

麗。

近年榮獲內政部列入「臺灣宗教百 景」。

70

觀音寺地理風水優越,自古騷 人墨客即留詩作聯於此,曾以「蓮

蓮座山觀音寺坐東南朝西北,

寺曉鐘」名列大溪八景。觀音寺香

腹地有限,原為三門一進,重修時

火鼎盛,每年農曆二月十九日觀音

擴為五門。正殿屋頂為三川脊,寺

菩薩聖誕日,香客絡繹不絕,向來

內的剪黏泥塑維妙維肖,木雕、石

是桃竹苗客籍人士的信仰中心,而

刻、彩繪古樸雅緻,殿前有歇山重

其建築形式獨特,木作彩繪及雕工

檐八柱拜亭,上方有一罕見之「鬥

細緻,是建築工藝與文化資產價值

八藻井」,斗栱、插角、吊籃均精

兼具的市定古蹟。▓

Lianzuashan (“Lotus Seat Mountain”) stands solemnly by the Dahan River, with Guanyin Temple at the mountain. Following the Hundred Steps Airy Stairs, one sees an old but healthy banyan tree, a vast spread of greens and expansive views that overlook river terraces and hilly mountains. Originally built by Cantonese Zhong in 1801, renovations in 1904 had a pavilion added; in 1934, the eight-pillared, hip-and-gable roofed worshipping kiosk replaced the fourpillared pavilion. Recently, the government has 大溪 listed it as "Taiwan's Top 100 Religious Sights." Daxi The temple faces northwest, originally had three entryways and one layer, though later expanded into five entryways. Three-spine roofing is found at the main hall, while collage arts, clay sculpture, wood and stone carvings, and graceful paintings are seen inside the temple. In front of the hall is the eight-pillared, hip-and-gable roofed worshipping kiosk with a rare octagonal caisson (spider-webbed ceiling) at the top, plus hexagonal sunk panel and exquisite carvings. A single layered temple with three key buildings is Guanyin Temple's architectural feature. By the shaded woods next to the temple one finds an extravagant Word-Respecting Pavilion with traditional blessed creature designs, praying for cultural and literacy wealth. A great Feng Shui spot, the temple appeals to poets and artists alike, leaving their traces, and its Lian Temple (Lotus Temple) Gyosho is one of eight Daxi must-sees. On every Guanyin Bodhisattva's birthday, crowds rush in, as this has been Hakka families' worship center in Taoyuan-Xinzhu-Miaoli area. Along with its unique wooden paintings and carvings, it is a city-designated Monument with great architectural and cultural value. ▓

71


古蹟 Monument

大溪齋明寺

Zhaiming Temple, Daxi

同治 12 年(1873)

園市大溪區齋明街 153 號 桃 No.153, Zhaiming St., Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

大溪齋明 寺主祀觀音菩 薩, 為 大 溪 最 古 老 的 禪 寺, 方位座東北朝 西 南, 寺 前 有 雙 重 牆 欄, 入 口立有成對門 柱, 上 題「 莊 嚴 憑 法 音, 圓 覺悟禪機」,環境清幽,隔絕塵囂,

式廟宇,後增建為單進四護龍,舊

大有禪寺風雅寧靜的氛圍。

時中庭植草皮,屋頂牆身與一般民

齋明寺創建時原名「福份宮」,

居無異,正殿無檐廊為其特色,風

是 齋 教 龍 華 派 齋 堂。 齋 教 即「 在

貌古樸,與齋教在家持齋修道精神

家 佛 教 」, 興 起 於 明 朝 中 葉, 信

映合。而現今庭院設施與客房、佛

眾在家持齋,不需出家。清嘉慶年

堂等現代建築為第七代主持聖嚴法

間 齋 教 大 量 進 入 臺 灣, 同 治 12 年

師時期陸續增建,其採用減法、單

(1873),第二代住持黃普瑟整修

純與低調的手法,降低禪堂屋簷、

草庵築堂,改稱齋明堂。大正元年

運用清水混凝土、迴廊等元素,讓

(1912)擴建正殿與兩側廂房, 昭

新建築如背景一般,突顯百年古剎

和 4 年(1929)廟後興建翠靈塔,

的歷史風華,曾獲「2012 臺灣建築

供 民 眾 安 奉 祖 先 遺 骨。 昭 和 12 年

獎」首獎殊榮。

(1937) 日 本 政 府 進 行「 宗 教 整

齋明堂自始即與大溪地區士紳

理 」, 更 名 為 齋 明 寺, 民 國 88 年

密切互動,大溪、龍潭的廟宇興廟

(1999)歸法鼓山門下。

建醮祭典,都會前來恭請觀音菩薩

齋明寺原為單進兩護龍三合院

72

The oldest Zen Temple in Daxi, the Zhaiming Temple faces southwest and worships Guanyin Bodhisattva. With a doublewalled entryway, one sees a paired pillar inscribed with “A Splendidness with Dharma, and a Perfect Enlightenment through Zen-ness,” one finds oneself immersed in the area’s serenity. Originally named “Fufen Gong,” it was part of the Zhaijiao (Vegetarian Sect), also known as Lay Buddhism, in which the practitioners did not need to lead a monastic lifestyle. Originated in the Ming Dynasty, the temple was part of the Lay Buddhism’s establishment. The religion saw its rising during Qing Dynasty, and in 1873 the practitioners fixed a hut to build the temple. The main hall and side wings were 大溪 added in 1912, with names changed at later times to Daxi make offerings to the ancestral remains. In the name of “Religious Registration,” the Japanese changed to its current name in 1937, and has been under the Dharma Drum Mountain’s system since 1999. The temple was Sanheyuan-styled with two winged-rooms; later expanded into two sets of winged-rooms on both sides; it had a plant-covered courtyard layout with roofs and walls similar to residential homes in the neighborhood. Prominent features include a lack of eaves gallery: a modest design compatible with the religious spirit. Modern additions such as the garden, the guestrooms and the Buddha Hall were built during Master Sheng Yen’s time. With the minimalist and lowkey designs, the roof edges were lowered and fair-faced concrete applied, accentuating its century old magnificence. The additional features were what made the Temple win the 2012 won first prize in 2012 Taiwan Architecture Award. This has been a temple with close ties with the local gentry, where offerings would be made to the Guanyin Bodhisattva during temple construction and ceremonies in Daxi and Longtan. ▓

前往作客。▓

73


古蹟 Monument

大溪李騰芳古宅

Li Tengfang Mansion

咸豐 10 年(1860)

桃 園市大溪區月眉路 34 號 No.34, Yuemei, Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

李 騰 芳 古 宅, 又 稱 李金興古宅 或李舉人古 厝, 宅 前 有 半月形水池, 水池和主建 築間由2道 院牆劃分外 內埕,是一座以合院為基本格局的

間,依房份與輩份予以分配以符合

兩進四護龍建築。

家庭倫理。

大溪李家先祖來自福建漳州詔

古宅建材以紅磚、砂岩、土埆

安,開基祖於臺南登陸,先居楊梅,

牆為主,第一、二進屋頂為硬山帶

後輾轉前往今大溪月眉定居,以經

燕尾翹脊。門廳與正廳的大木結構

商為業。李騰芳為李炳生三子,同

是全宅木作最精細者,除左右廂房

治 4 年(1865)參加福建鄉試中舉,

檐柱外,第 1、2 落中央三開間的木

3 年後加捐內閣中書,在大溪地位

柱均採梭柱形式,此外,抬樑式結

舉足輕重,大溪地名也因此由「大

構雕飾華麗,突顯李家崇高的地位。

姑陷」改為「大科崁」,後再改為「大

正廳兩側牆面素白,飾有墨線勾勒

嵙崁」。

的畫幅,淡雅高貴。

古宅規模宏大,主建築為兩落

李騰芳古宅為國定古蹟,產權

四護龍,廳堂與門廳落於中軸線上,

屬於「祭祀公業法人桃園縣李金興

與兩側的兩道護龍形成建築群核心,

公」,目前仍有李家子孫居住,其

各空間依尊卑次序向外遞減。後落

規模之宏偉,格局之完整,剪黏雕

中央正廳祭祖處屋身最高,突顯其

飾之華麗,是值得一訪的古宅第。▓

崇高地位,左右兩側護龍為居住空

74

Li Tengfang Mansion, also known as Li Jin-Xing or Scholar Li’s Mansion, is a multi-winged, four-section compound (Siheyuan) with two main houses. With a half-moon shaped pond at the front, the space is divided into inner and outer courtyards by two sets of walls between the pond and the main house. Daxi’s Li Family’s ancestors came from Fujian. First landed in Tainan, then moved to Yangmei, eventually established themselves as rice sellers in Daxi’s Yuemei. Born in 1814, the Li Tengfang came to prominence as he passed the provincial exam and became an official at the (local) bureau, thus prompting Daxi’s several name changes. In 1860, Li built the Mansion as his career soared. The main structure is of two main houses with two sets of winged rooms at each side. Its architectural core is comprised of both 大溪 Daxi the main hall and its hallway that is on the axis of the space, coupled with double-winged rooms. At the deep end of the courtyard, the ancestral shrine is placed at the tallest hall to demonstrate its lofty stance. The side winged-rooms are living spaces assigned according to the Chinese kinship standards, with the elder member using the innermost space, while the younger ones occupying the outermost area. The Mansion’s building materials included red bricks, sandstones, and sun-dried soil bricks. The main house’s rooftops adopted the shape of the swallowtail, a symbol for a government official’s residence. Both wooden structure of the Main and Entrance Halls are the most sophisticated part of the Siheyuan. The pillars, except for the winged-rooms’, were spindle-shaped. Together with the extravagant decor on the post and lintel frame structure, the Mansion accentuated Li Family’s superior social status. Ink sketched lines on the whitewashed walls at the Main Hall emanates elegance. Li Tengfang Mansion is the only designated National Monument in Taoyuan; its ownership belongs to Li Jin-Xing Descendants’ Committee. Li’s descendants still reside in the Mansion. Its architectural grandeur, elaborate decor and carvings are worth a visit. ▓

75


古蹟 Monument

大溪

送德古宅

Historical Residence of Jian Songde, Daxi

明治 31 年(1898)

園市大溪區內柵路二段 63 巷 48-50 號 桃 No.48-50, Ln. 63, Sec. 2, Neizha Rd., Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

簡送德為日治初期大溪知名仕

防盜暗鎖功能仍然完好。古宅以土

紳,因善於經營商事及土地,除坐

埆、石塊、紅磚、瓦、木材等為建材,

擁今大溪和平路德記商行,同時經

特別是正廳及正身凹壽處,可見細

營 大 溪 多 處 農 地 開 發。 明 治 31 年

膩雕飾與磚砌收邊其豐富且具變化

(1898 年),簡送德興建大宅,命

的磚砌技藝,極具藝術價值。

名「永安居」,取「永紹宏基克勤

古宅目前仍有人居住,部分空

克儉繩祖武,安居陋室惟忠惟孝振

間因應現代生活之需而裝修調整,

家聲」之意,以勉後世子孫。

但大致上保有最初的格局,並由三

簡送德古宅為閩南式建築,坐

大房輪流祭祀,每逢春節、清明、

東朝西,傳統三合院外有圍牆。以

端午、中元、中秋等重大節日,族

正身廳堂為中心,左右護龍各設一

人從各地返回祖厝祭祖聚會,熱鬧

間私廳(客廳)、一間廚房及五間

中也可見宗族強大的向心力。▓

Jian Songde was a well-known gentry during early days of the Japanese colonization in Daxi, also a savvy businessman who owned the area’s Tokki Shoco (shop) and developed farmlands. In 1898 he sent for craftsmen from Fujian Province for its construction, naming it the “Yongan Abode” (lit. “Eternally Solid”) as a token of family’s philosophy to his offspring. This is a traditional Fujianese architecture that features a west-facing, Sanheyuan design with external walls. The main room serves as the center, each side of the wing carries a private room (living room), a kitchen and five rooms, with the former two considered 大溪 a household. Original artistry on the main room, window lattices, Daxi wall paintings and carved red bricks were kept. Sophisticated brickwork at the main hall and main room’s concave area stood out among a rich array of artistic representation from construction materials including sundried soil bricks, stones, tiles and wood. Most of its original layout was kept, even as it serves as a lived-in space that underwent partial changes to accommodate modern day living. The three oldest offspring take turns leading sacrificial ceremonies, as clansmen from all over return on each major holiday, testifying to the clan’s coherence. ▓

房間,每一廚房及私廳為一房(戶) 人家。正身及護龍的窗櫺、壁畫及 磚雕花飾幾乎都保有原貌,大門的

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77


歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪林宅梅鶴山莊

Lin Family Meihe Villa, Daxi

同治 8 年(1869)

桃 園市大溪區福安里六鄰 1 號 No.1, Fu'an vil Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

梅鶴山莊創建者林 圻海 ( 號登雲 ) 原籍漳州 龍溪,父親林邦興於嘉 慶 9 年 (1804) 渡海來臺, 於八塊厝庄 ( 今八德 ) 開 店成家生子。而後林登 雲遷居至大嵙崁下街 ( 今 大溪和平路 ),擔任林本 源家族的租館管事,漸漸廣置產業;

有礦場、米廠、磚廠、茶園、商號,

平時樂善好施,曾捐款協助大溪齋

成為大溪望族。

明寺及福仁宮之改建等。

梅鶴山莊的格局是傳統的閩南

同治 8 年 (1869),林登雲於頭

三合院,入口鑲有一副對聯,寫著

寮庄興建宅第「吉慶堂」,並以古

「利居長安保我金玉,履福綏厚富

人林和靖「梅妻鶴子」的典故,將

如厫倉」,前埕廣闊,昔日用來曬

宅邸命名為「梅鶴山莊」,而門廳

榖,如今充作孩童休憩玩耍的場所

額「榮封第」為林氏在光緒年間為

或停車之用。目前林宅的格局為二

父親出請五品大夫的封典榮銜之後

落六護龍,正身面寬七開間,兩側

所題。

為過水廊;屋內有通道,外門關閉

林登雲祖籍福建漳州,與林本

時各房仍可相通;正身以公媽廳「吉

源家族本是同鄉,原居臺北新莊,

慶堂」居中,神明安置於內埕右護

擔任林家總執事,並隨林家遷移到

龍廳中;右護龍較左護龍長,形成

桃園大溪。後來林本源家族遷居板

不對稱的格局,雖因居住需求先後

橋落地生根,林登雲並未遷居,選

改建,但整體配置佈局完整,彩繪、

擇在大溪定居,以薪資投資當地房

泥塑、剪黏與木雕等裝飾古樸精美,

地產,並以「林本源商號總執事」

是大溪極負盛名的建築之一。▓

In 1869, the Lin Family Mansion and Garden’s owner’s general butler, Lin Deng-Yun, built and named their family villa as “Meihe” in Daxi. Its naming signifies a virtuous or reclusive presence. The two Lins were from the same village, where the former serves as the general butler, and moved to Taoyuan’s 大溪 Daxi with the latter. When the Garden owner’s family settled in Daxi Banqiao, the butler Lin stayed behind, bought properties and ran businesses in mining, bricks, rice and tea, and made a name for himself overtime. The Villa is a traditional Sanheyuan, where the couplet by the doorsteps displayed auspicious messages for the household, and comes with a wide front yard formerly used for grain sunning, now as a playground or parking lot. It carries a two- enclosure, six winged-room layout, is seven-bay wide, with rain-avoiding corridors on the sides. Interior passageways allow for movement between the houses even when the main entrance is closed. The center is the main hall where the ancestral shrine is placed, with deities seated on the right wing room; plus it is longer than the left side, creating an uneven layout. Even as it underwent architectural changes, its overall scope was kept, featuring splendidly colorful paintings, mud sculptures, Koji ceramics and wood carving, making it one well-known building in Daxi. ▓

為名號做生意,其後家業如雲,擁

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79


歷史建築 Historic buildings

慈湖陵寢

Cihu Mausoleum

民國 48 年(1959)

園市大溪區埤尾 3 號 桃

In the 1950s, former president Chiang Kai-shek arrived at Taoyuan Daxi’s Baiji Tunnel entryway. Unable to carry on by car, he took the palanquin and was deeply moved by Cihu area’s resemblance to his hometown in Zhejiang, China. In 1955, Banqiao Lin Ben-Yuan’s family unconditionally offered 19 acres of land for military use; it later became Chiang’s Guesthouse. In 1959, it was built to be “Tunnel entry’s Guesthouse” then as “Cihu Guesthouse.” After Chiang’s passing, it was changed to Cihu Mausoleum in 1975, and added

No.3, Piwei, Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

大溪 Daxi

1950 年 代, 故 蔣 總 統 中 正 先

任務,後慈湖五棟辦公室移交陵管

生行至桃園大溪百吉隧道口,座車

處代管,至民國 96 年移撥桃園市政

無法前進,改乘轎子繞經慈湖地區,

府管理。

見此地景色近似故鄉浙江省奉化縣 溪口鎮,留下深刻的印象。

之中,坐北朝南,是一座仿四合院

民國 44 年,板橋林本源家族提

閩浙形式的磚造紅瓦平房,左右圓

供慈湖周邊 19 頃土地,無償捐予政

洞門可至側院,後方山壁設有一處

府作為軍事戰備用地,後來成為總

防空避難所。陵寢門廳懸掛蔣中正

統行館。民國 48 年,榮民工程處(今

先生題寫的「慈湖」木匾,靈柩停

榮民工程公司)施工建成「洞口賓

放正廳供人瞻仰,另有蔣夫人臥室、

館」,三年後更名為「慈湖賓館」,

主臥室、蔣經國及蔣緯國臥室及休

民國 64 年蔣中正先生逝世靈柩奉厝

息室,以及勳章陳列室、貴賓接待

此地後改稱慈湖陵寢,並設立慈湖

室、史料室等服務性空間。▓

陵寢管理處,負責接待管理服務等

80

慈湖陵寢依山傍水,隱於樹林

an administrative office for guest services etc.. It has been under Taoyuan government’s jurisdiction since 2007. Cihu Mausoleum is nestled in the mountains while overlooking the water. It resembles a Minnan-Zhejiang Siheyuan-style home built with red bricks, with side doors reaching to the garden, and a bombproof center at the back. A wooden inscription plaque “Cihu” and Chiang’s casket are displayed in the living room; Chiang family members’ rooms, the memorabilia room, VIP guestroom and historical records room are also part of the Mausoleum. ▓

81


歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪陵寢

Daxi Mausoleum

民國 51 年(1962) 桃園大溪區猴洞坑 19-1 號 No.19-1, Houdongkeng, Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

「大溪陵寢」 原 為「 頭 寮 賓 館」,土地原為板 橋林本源家族所 有, 後 捐 獻 給 政 府。 民 國 51 年 由 榮工處興建完成, 落成之初並無特別 使用計畫,後改為 總統府檔案室,存 放部分總統府重要 文件檔案,並收藏 與蔣家相關的書籍 及資料文卷。

間,以利緊急疏散。正廳奉厝蔣經

的鋼筋混凝土構造建築,外觀為紅

國先生靈櫬,左次間為夫人臥室,

瓦黑牆,整體格局與慈湖陵寢相仿,

右次間為勳章陳列室,其他空間為

民國 77 年蔣經國先生去世,奉厝於

家屬私人的臥室、書房及餐廳等。

此,才更名為「大溪陵寢」。陵寢

入口門廳左次間現為「蔣經國先生

內部僅有蔣經國先生的靈堂及辦公

紀念室」,右次間為接待人員辦公

室,陳設十分簡單,如同他一生勤

室,右廂房與廳堂之間的天井後方

政愛民、生活簡樸的個性,庭院植

為廚房及儲藏室等服務性空間。

有梅樹及龍柏,幽雅清新。

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及兩廂有大片落地門可通往室外空

大溪陵寢是一座仿四合院形式

Originally as “Touliao Guesthouse” on the land that belonged to the Banqiao Lin Ben-Yuan’s family then donated to the government, the Mausoleum was built in 1962 by Ret-Ser Engineering Agency. It was later used as Presidential Palace’s archives room, plus storage for books and documents about the Chiang family. Daxi Mausoleum is a Siheyuan-styled architecture built with reinforced concrete, a red-bricked black wall that is similar to Cihu Mausoleum. It was designated and renamed Daxi Mausoleum after the passing of Ching-Kuo, Chiang Kai-Shek’s son in 1988. Its simple interior, with only Chiang Jr’s funeral hall and office, speaks to his humbleness and devotion to his people; there is an elegantly serene garden full of plum and 大溪 cypress. Daxi Facing northwest to Dahan River and backed against the mountain, Daxi Mausoleum has a courtyard with pillared cloister, with corridors attached to appentices, plus French doors that open to the outdoor for emergency evacuation. Chiang Jr.’s casket is at the main hall, with the then First Lady’s room to the left, Medal room to the right, etc. To the left of entryway is Chiang Ching-Kuo’s Memorial Room, Guest services to the right, and kitchen etc. to the back courtyard. Daxi and Cihu Mausoleum are 1 km apart and are connected with a scenic path displaying seasonal changes and river views. ▓

大溪陵寢與慈湖陵寢距離約 1

大溪陵寢坐東南朝西北,背依

公里,有觀光謁陵步道連結,沿途

草嶺山,面臨大漢溪,中庭四周為

山林景觀隨著季節而變換顏色,漫

方柱迴廊,兩廂後側有廊道,正廳

步其間,盡賞溪水與綠蔭之美。▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪

氏古厝

Historical Residence of Jian Family, Daxi

光緒 15 年(1889)設籍於此 桃園市大溪區康莊路 3 段 583 巷 117 號

No.117, Ln. 583, Sec. 3, Kangzhuang Rd., Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

簡氏家族從 福 建 南 靖 遷 臺, 其中簡亨源一支 移居大溪的內柵 庄, 世 裔 延 續 至 今 至 少 180 年, 歷史悠久。 簡氏古厝為 傳統三合院建築 格 局, 採 用 傳 統 土埆磚牆體加上 卵石基礎,數度修葺整建,使用了

然地形,可說是臺灣北部散村聚落

從清代、日治至戰後各時期的建材,

的典型。

見證古厝修建的變遷歷程。其中閩

簡氏古厝具備深厚的歷史文化

式屋頂形式及瓦作,形式簡易的出

價值,也展現地域的獨特風貌,屋

挑斗拱,土埆磚及卵石基礎疊砌的

主具備強烈的文化資產保存意願,

牆體,窄小的開口部,透露了古厝

使古厝大致上獲得完整保留,在各

原有的樣貌。

方共同努力與期待下,未來修復再

古厝周圍的民居各自形成獨立

利用,期能呈現以往宅第的氣勢,

的生活場域,埕前的圍牆與建築圍

同時也可配合內柵社區的農村產業,

塑出一個屬於私領域的戶外空間。

進一步的擴展文化和經濟效益。▓

此外宅第後方自古即有樹木,一方 面表現宅第場域範圍,另方面突顯

Originally from Fujian Province, China, the Jian Family settled in Daxi’s Neizha Village, and has since created a lineage of more than 180 years. The Family’s Historical Residence has undergone several restorations. It takes after Sanheyuan’s design, using the traditionally unburnt sun-dried bricks and pebble stones as foundation, plus materials from Qing Dynasty, Japanese colonization and post-Nationalist’s takeover. The original Fujianese tiled rooftop, simplified node of wooden structures, the unburnt sun-dried bricks and pebble-stoned walls, plus the narrow opening reveals the Historical Residence’s true colors. The Historical Residence’s architectural design 大溪 allowed for a private outdoor space at the front Daxi courtyard; furthermore, the trees planted in the back of the Residence not only accentuates its magnanimity, but also offers protection against the elements. This feature makes it a typical example of scattered villages in northern Taiwan, making nearby residences conforming to its geography, thus establishing a scattered community layout. Such is an architectural example equipped with immense cultural value that also showcases locality’s unique landscape; coupled with the owner’s desire in its preservation, the Jian Family’s Historical Residence was well-kept for the most part. Through efforts from different entities, the hope is to restore, reuse and revive its original splendor, and to extend partnerships with the local farming scene to further its cultural and economic benefits. ▓

建築氣勢,並具有抵禦自然氣候侵 擾的功能。簡氏古厝附近的民居展 現散點的布局,建築配置也配合自

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪老城區

Daxi Old Street

大溪老城區

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Yuemei Passageway

Daxi Old Street

大溪和平路 48、48-1 48、48-1 號 號 大溪和平路 No. 48 48 and and 48-1, 48-1, Heping Heping Road, Road, Daxi Daxi No.

大溪石板古道

清嘉慶 15 年起(Began1810)

月眉通路

Old Stone-paved Path, Daxi

大溪和平路茂發

大溪和平路 大溪和平路 54 54 號 號

Maofa Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi

No. No. 54, 54, Heping Heping Road, Road, Daxi Daxi

大溪和平路廣大

大溪和平路金源

Guang-da Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi

Jin-yuan Shop Facade, Facade , HepingRoad, Road,Daxi Daxi Heping

大溪和平路永發 Yung-fa Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi

大溪和平路錦發 Jin-fa Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi

大溪和平路 Kenko Kenko Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi

大溪和平路金記同興

大溪老城區沿著

Jin-ji-tong-xing Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi

大漢溪崖線,主要由和

大溪和平路李記興源

平 路、 中 央 路 與 中 山

Li-ji-xing-yuan Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi

路所構成的市街聚落,

大溪和平路玉寶堂 Yu-bao Tang Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi

大溪和平路協興 Xie-xing Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi

其發展始於「下街」與

大溪國小日式宿舍

「上街」,漳籍移民於

Japanese-style Residence for Daxi Elementary School

嘉慶 18 年(1813)集

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大溪中央路 148 號 No. 148, Zhongyang Road, Daxi

大溪

資興建福仁宮,而後林 大溪公會堂

本源家族為避北部漳

Daxi Assembly Hall

No. 19, Zhongshan Road, Daxi

泉械鬥遷居至此,於道 光 4 年(1824)在下街興建 4 公頃、

「下街」、「新街」加「草店

市街沿著通議第石牆外圍逐漸成形。

尾街」即今和平路,「上街」為中

同治元年(1862)淡水成為通

央路,「新南街」則是中山路。和

商港埠,大溪作為大漢溪上游的貨

平、中央、中山這 3 條路是「大溪

物出口站,輸出山區的茶與樟腦,

老城區」融合西洋歷史式樣及漢人

帶動產業開發,市街更加繁榮,下

建築的菁華街廓;成排街屋上,匠

街往東延伸出「新街」,往西連接

師較勁、各顯身手,裝飾爭奇鬥豔,

碼頭石板路成了「草店尾街」;到

閩洋折衷式樣的立面騎樓形成了繁

了 光 緒 12 年(1886) 劉 銘 傳 在 此

複華麗的街區風貌。

設立撫墾總局,下上街已不敷需求,

和平路老街建築群

大正元年(1912)日本政府公

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大溪蘭室

Daxi

Lanshi, Daxii

大溪中央路翠鳳

成。

石牆圍護的宅邸「通議第」,此後

於是在上街西側再添「新南街」。

大溪中山路 19 號

告「大嵙崁街市區改正計畫」,進

和平路涵蓋三段老街(由東至

行道路拓寬,原來的街屋騎樓退縮

西為新街、下街與草店尾街)。嘉

並新設立面,至大正 8-9 年(1919-

慶 15 年(1810) 便 有 人 在 下 街 開

1920)大溪街屋的立面陸續施工完

設店屋;東西段的新街與草店尾街

建成商行 Kensei Shoco, Daxi

大溪武德殿

Cui-feng Shop Facade, Zhongyang Road, Daxi

大溪中央路廖宅 Liao's House, Zhongyang Road, Daxi

Martial Arts Dojo, Daxi

大溪警察局宿舍群 Japanese-style Residence for Daxi Police Station

大溪中央路赤龍 Chi-long Shop Facade, Zhongyang Road, Daxi

大溪中央路隆泰 Long-tai Shop Facade, Zhongyang Road, Daxi

Following the Dahan River's cliff line, Daxi Old Street's development began with the appearance of "Upper Street" (Heping Rd.) and "Lower Street" (Zhongyang Rd.). The addition of Furen Temple in 1813, with renowned Lin Family Mansion and Garden owners avoiding the Zhang-Quan armed feud and moved to the area, a four-acre, stonewalled property "Tong-yi-di" was built in 1824, with the town's planning since conforming to these walls. Daxi became Dahan River up-stream’s logistic center when Tamsui became a commercial port in 1862, prospering with tea and camphor exports. When the Pacification Office was established in 1886 by the Taiwan Governor-General Liu Min-

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則是在同治 7 年(1868)形成。下 街與新街段為商業街,草店尾街則 是碼頭工人的住宅區。 1919 年日本當局實施「市區改 正」,下街與新街一帶因聚集眾多 店家而成為重點。在這波改建潮中, 向日人學過泥匠技藝的臺灣匠師將 常見於廟宇的剪黏與交趾燒應用在 牌樓厝立面,眾人爭相仿效,使得 老街的街屋立面充滿繁複的裝飾。 大溪和平路玉寶堂(15-1 號) 玉寶堂建於道光年間,為兩落

頭」)。山牆中央題名「Kenko」,

一過水,土埆壁,福杉楹仔上舖厝

可能意指「堅固」或「健康」,異

瓦,牌樓面立有「間柱」,看似三

國風情十足。

開間格局。山牆表面為仿石材質感 的洗石子,有蝙蝠裝飾,兩側有花 瓶及植物紋,背後則是以次等磚簡 單堆砌而成。

大溪和平路協興(23 號) 本店原名「恆產」,經營建材 及煤炭,後易名「協興」, 1967 年 轉作藥局,是大溪老街少數未曾易 主的店屋。協興的格局為兩落一過 水,牌樓面有圓形間柱及 3 道圓拱, 間柱柱身及柱墩表面為洗石子,柱 頭以上使用清水紅磚砌築。山牆兩 側利用紅磚橫豎疊砌出花樣,巧思 獨具。

大溪和平路 Kenko(和平路 20 號) Kenko 為 兩 落 一 過 水 的 規 模, 為土埆壁及磚牆混合構造。局部使 用鋼筋混凝土補強。原屋主從事建 築業,因此立面相當華麗精緻,以 洗石子工法仿石雕,並採仿柯林斯 式的西式柱頭(日治時期稱「白菜

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Chuan, "New South Rd" (Today’s Zhongshan Rd.) was added to ease town's demands. The Japanese colonial government announced "Taikokan City Improvement Plan" in 1912: they widened existing roads, pushed back the street verandas and set up new facades plus finished those in 1919-1920. The three main roads in Daxi Old Street (Heping, Zhongyang, and Zhongshan Roads) make up the "Daxi Old Town Area," a buoyant town immersed in the commercial hustle and bustle, and Han craft masters' unabashed artistry blends in with Western influences.

The Architecture from Heping Road Three east-west bound streets encompassed Heping Rd. The earliest shops opened up on 1810, while commercial streets 大溪 Daxi and dockworkers’ residential area were established in 1868. When the Japanese government implemented the “City Improvement Plan,” crowding businesses on a section of the Heping Rd. became its target. During the movement, the Chen brothers, who picked up stucco plastering skills from the Japanese, applied collage arts onto temples and Koji ceramic burning on arcade facades, leading many to follow suit, turning the area into an elaborate street scene.

Yu-bao Tang Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi (No. 15-1 ) Built somewhere between 1820-40s, it has a two luo (enclosure under a set of roof slopes) and one guoshuei (rain avoiding corridor). Materials used include unburnt sun-dried brick wall with roofing tiles laying on the wooden beam; the arcade facade with a three-bay layout. The parapet's external surface applied washed granolithic with bat, flower vase and vegetation designs, whereas the backside used simple bricks, likely saving the best only for what can catch the eyes.

Kenko Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi (No. 20) Kenko Shop Facade is built with both the unburnt sundried

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大溪和平路廣大(26 號) 廣大張宅原為三落二過水規 模,後與隔壁茂發同時改建為樓房, 室內均為鋼筋混凝土造。廣大的牌 樓面以日治時期的清水磚砌成,磚 縫以灰泥向外塗抹成半圓形的「凸 縫」,相當費工。舊有山牆牆面損

Xie-xing Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi (No. 23)

壞,民國 87 年(1998 年)實施「大

Originally a construction and coal supplier with a different name, it became a pharmacy in 1967, and is one of the few shops without ownership change. Also a two-luo, one-guoshuei layout, the arcade facade has washed granolithic cylindrical columns and 3 circular arches. Red bricks are used at the top of the column, and decorated on the sides of the gable, making it an ingenious creation.

溪和平路美化工程」時重新砌築而 成,可從清水磚的色澤看出其中的 差異。 大溪和平路永發(24 號) 邱家經營永發歷史悠久,未曾 易主。當年主人請來 3 位唐山師傅, 各 設 計 20、24、26 號, 施 工 期 間 以帆布遮蓋,完工當日才揭幕,大 有讓師傅相互較勁之意。永發的格 局為三落二過水,牌樓面上以繁複 的花果及靈獸造型祈福,如山牆孔 雀開屏象徵「天下太平」,半圓拱 形山牆內的鰲魚為求「鎮火」,短 柱旁吐著雲狀花朵的三腳金蟾則是 「招財」,其他還有象徵平安的花 瓶及象徵財寶的金瓜(南瓜),此 外柱頭卷草裝飾也很精采。

and red bricks, partially consolidated with reinforced concrete, with only two-luo, one-guoshuei layout. With the original owner in the architecture business, it has an eye-catching facade that applied washed granolithic, as well as imitating Greek's Corinthian Order (famous for its decorativeness). "Kenko" at the center of the gable likely refers to firmness or health.

大溪和平路茂發(28 號) 茂發蘇宅原為三落二過水規模, 與隔壁的廣大同時改建樓房而成現 況。山尖形山牆上有植物紋飾的家 徽、西洋式卷草、彩帶花籃、匾額 題字及短柱柱頭作立體的螺旋紋, 兩側有凹弧尖形的左右小山牆。茂 發近年改建,除保留老街牌樓面與 亭仔腳,在建築立面上也模仿老街

Yung-fa Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi (No. 24)

大溪

No ownership change took place during the Chiu family’s longstanding history. Back then three master crafters were invited to design building No. 20, 24 & 26, where each of their crafts was showcased only at the grand opening. Its three-luo, two-guoshuei layout incorporated elaborate and blessed designs on the arcade facade, such as fruits, vegetables, and spiritual beasts: the peacock tail’s fanning denotes “world peace,” the three-toed golden toad for wealth, the flower vase for safety, and the pumpkin for fortune, plus the splendid scroll grass patterns on the column heads.

Daxi

Guang-da Shop Facade (No. 26 Heping Rd.) Chang family’s Guang-da had a “three-luo, two-guoshuei” layout, though, along with neighboring Mao-fa, was later altered as storied buildings built with reinforced concrete. Its wide arcade facade is made with red bricks fabricated during the Japanese reign, laboriously applied with mortar to create the oval-shaped beaded pointing. The old gable had damages, and the color differences can be seen after its renovation through 1998’s “Daxi Heping Rd.’s Embellishing Project.”

的紋樣圖飾,維持了老街完整風貌。

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大溪和平路 54 號 原創建人不詳,黃家於日治時 期買下 54、56 號二間店面經營豆干 及油車間,後從事過賣米、派報社, 現店面經營冷熱飲。此街屋第一進 的商店空間仍保有傳統街屋的構造 和形式,後方居住空間則因生活需 求而改建為新式樓房。 大溪和平路李記興源(55 號) 興源後方為林本源家族的「通 議第」,所以規模受到圍牆的限制, 僅有兩落一過水。目前的牌樓面經 大溪和平路 48 號、48-1 號

「大溪和平路美化工程」改造,將

和平路 48、48-1 號建於清末,

矩形山牆回復為山尖形,兩側女兒

日治昭和年間古家從江氏購得,經

牆加高並作水平收邊,下方紅磚砌

營雜貨及糕餅。此處為大溪典型的

築的圓弧拱在戰後改建成鋼筋混凝

街屋代表,室內空間為二坎三落二

土水平橫樑,表面改為洗石子,「老

過水格局,二樓夾層、閣樓與一樓

朝陽家具」的字體則是仿原堂號「李

之間挑空。現今 48 號店面為古家自

興源」的字體所增設。

行經營藝品店,48-1 號店面及後方 街屋空間則經營餐飲。

Maofa Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi (No. 28) Similar to Chang’s Guang-da, Su family’s Maofa was changed to storied buildings. The gable carries designs from plant-adorned family, scroll grass patterns, flower baskets, inscriptions, a short column head with three-dimensional spiral patterns, with U shaped mini gables on the sides. Recent renovations not only helped sustain its original arcade facade and veranda, but also adopted traditional patterned designs.

No. 48 and 48-1, Heping Road, Daxi Built towards the end of Qing Dynasty, the Gu family purchased it during the Japanese reign, turning it into a grocerybakery shop. It is a typical representation of Daxi’s street shops, with two courtyards, three “luo” enclosures and two rainavoiding corridors. Now No. 48 runs an artifacts store, with No. 大溪 Daxi 48-1 rented out as a coffeehouse.

No. 54, Heping Road, Daxi Its original owner was not known, though Family Huang bought No. 54 & 56 during the Japanese reign to run bean curds and oil pressing shops. It also functioned as rice and newspaper delivery shops; now runs as a beverage business. The shop’s first layer keeps to its traditional layout, whereas the backside turned into storied buildings to adapt modern lifestyle.

Li-ji-xing-yuan Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi (No. 55) Due to the shop’s backside attachment to the Lin Mansion owner’s property walls, its construction conformed to its design and only had two enclosures and one rain-avoiding corridor. After the “Daxi Heping Rd.’s Embellishing Project,” the arcade facade’s rectangular gable was restored to triangularshaped. Parapet walls on both sides were elevated and trimmed horizontally; after the war, the red-bricked archways changed into reinforced concrete horizontal beams, with a washed granolithic surface.

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大溪和平路金記同興(61 號) 如同興源,同興也受到「通議 第」圍牆的影響,僅有兩落一過水 規模。金記同興的圓弧形山牆裝飾 華麗細緻,「金同興」三字以磨紅

Jin-ji-tong-xing Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi (No. 61)

磚粉石子塑造而成,兩側柱頭與線

Its building also had to conform to the Lin Mansion owner's walls and is limited to two-luo, one-guoshuei layout. This is an elaborately decorated arched gable, a granolithic finish for the inscribed "Jin-tong-xing" with side pillars using washed granolithic design; a basket of wax apples signaling a wealth of offspring is ingeniously showcased on the pillar top.

腳以洗石子層層粉刷,相當細膩, 柱頭上方的洗石子題材為裝滿蓮霧 的籃子,象徵多子多孫,為本牌樓 一絕。

Jin-fa Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi (No. 77)

大溪和平路金源(79 號) 金源為三落二過水格局,第二 落大廳祭拜神明,頭落後方的空間 與之對望,不適合做為房間,只能

Jin-fa has a three-luo, two-guoshuei layout; its arcade facade kept the Japanese colonial style. The short side pillars next to the dome are carved with an open-mouthed bat picking up the coins to suggest "blessings here and now." It takes after 大溪 Greek's Doric Order with the circular columns bottomed with Daxi squared cushions, applying washed granolithic on the pillars and arcade facade.

設「廳」,因朝向與大廳相反,所

Jin-yuan Shop Facade, Heping Road, Daxi (No. 79)

以稱為「倒向廳」,為金源建築的

With a layout of three “luo” enclosures and two rainavoiding corridors, and due to its positioning, while the second enclosure is used as an ancestral hall, it is only proper to have the rooms at its opposite end (at the rear of the first enclosure) made into an “Oppositional Hall” instead of bedrooms. The latter thus became a unique feature named on site.

一大特色。

大溪和平路錦發(77 號) 錦發為三落二過水格局,牌樓 面仍維持日治時期的風貌。圓頂兩 側的短柱有蝙蝠口銜銅錢的雕飾, 引申為「福在眼前」;騎樓間柱為 圓柱,底接方形柱珠,上有仿多立 克式柱頭,柱身與牌樓面都以洗石 子裝修。

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中央路老街建築群 中央路自清代起便是商業區,

The Architecture from Zhongyang Road

其商業地位一直持續至今。店屋建

Zhongyang Rd. kept its commercial function since Qing Dynasty; effects from the City Improvement Plan made for elaborately designed arcade facades. Shop numbers 140 to 148 are two-storied buildings, a rare sight in Daxi.

築同樣受市區改正的影響,有著繁 複的牌樓立面,其中的 140-148 號, 則是當年大溪少見的二層樓街屋。

Long-tai Shop Facade, Zhongyang Road, Daxi (No. 84-1 )

大溪中央路隆泰(84-1 號) 隆泰為大溪蕭家產業,蕭家居 住在此有數代之久,曾經營雜貨、 布行等生意,其建築格局為四落二 過水,頭落為辦公室,二落大廳後 的房間由當家夫婦居住,其餘都是 住家空間。牌樓立面以清水紅磚砌

瓶玻璃拼貼而成,兩側短柱有日本

成三段式圓拱,圓形間柱上為仿多

時代遺留的面磚,為歐風的「馬約

立克柱式,山牆兩側各有一隻小獅

利卡磁磚」,題材以植物紋與幾何

口啣綵帶,有「祥獅獻瑞」之意,

紋為主,短柱外側有鏤空竹節欄杆,

屬於融合巴洛克、中國傳統動物、

中西風格兼具頗富趣味;牌樓下方

花草紋樣的折衷樣式,充分展現西

則作圓弧形拱,柱頭下以兩根圓柱

風東漸的時代風格。

隔成三開間牌樓面,底為圓形柱珠。 永安居為三坎三落二過水格局,

大溪中央路赤龍、廖宅、翠鳳(86

平面有許多類似合院的地方,如中

號、88 號、90 號)

落像是ㄇ字形的三合院,兩側赤龍、

赤龍與相鄰的廖宅、 翠鳳合稱「永安居」,為 目前大溪街區保存尚稱 完整的三坎店仔(昔日店 面一間稱為「一坎」)。, 赤龍在左,廖宅居中、翠 鳳在右。赤龍、翠鳳除了 匾額題字不同外,幾乎是 左右對稱,立面裝飾也不 相 上 下, 匾 額 上 都 有 麒 麟 對 望 坐 臥, 題 字 以 酒

96

The former grocery and cloth shop belongs to generations of Xiao family. With a four-luo, two-guoshuei layout, the first luo enclosure is the office, behind the second enclosure there is the room for the shop owner and his wife, with the rest for household use. This is a three-layered, red-bricked arched facade that imitated Greek's Doric Order, with both sides of the gable decorated with a lion cub's mouth holding colorful strings 大溪 offering blessings; it exemplifies a unique blend of Eastern Daxi traditional animals and vegetation with Western's Baroque styles.

Chi-long Shop Facade, Liao’s House, Cui-feng Shop Facade, Zhongyang Road, Daxi (No. 86, 88, 90) The three shops were named "Forever Peace Abode," considered as one of best kept "three-shops" in Daxi, with Chilong (lit. dragon) on the left, Liao House in the middle, and Cuifeng (lit. phoenix) on the right. Other than the different inscriptions, the two buildings next to Liao House are quite symmetrical with similar decorations, featuring luck-bound Qilin, collaged with bottled glass, and Majolica tiles on the short side columns. It has plant- and geometrically-themed lines, with external bamboo wires, making this a fun East-West blend. The "Forever Peace Abode" has a "three-courtyard, threeluo, and two-guoshuei" layout, featuring sectional compounds, such as middle spacing (Liao House) as courtyard-shaped Sanheyuan, with the two rain-avoiding corridors next to it acting as winged-rooms. Liao House's arcade facade suffered car crash and has yet to be fixed, or its magnificence likely surpasses that of the neighboring two.

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翠鳳的過水就像左右護龍,所以從

中山路老街建築群

廖宅門口進入深井看到大廳時,會 有身處合院的錯覺。廖宅牌樓立面

中山路的店屋建築受到 1912 年

曾遭車輛撞毀重建,可惜未能恢復

市區改正計畫的影響,產生了各式

原貌,否則中央牌樓雕飾之精美應

各樣的牌樓立面,山牆上裝飾繁複,

更勝兩側的赤龍、翠鳳。

細緻精彩,與和平路老街一樣是西 洋建築式樣的精華所在。

大溪中央路 148 號 這是大溪老街中少見的兩層樓 街屋。

日治以後,此區由於接近公家 機關(郡役所、郵便局、小學校等) 及官舍,商業形態大多因應日人生

No. 148, Zhongyang Road, Daxi The two-storied building is one rare sight in Daxi. Most of Daxi Old Street's architecture makes housing additions on the ground level; the rarity of two-storied buildings relates to "floor" (sounds like "gone" in Taiwanese dialect) based on an ancient Chinese wealth building philosophy. When compared with one-storied facade, it fades in its elaborateness, though one can still spot the red-bricked design from the Japanese colonial times.

大溪老街街屋多往後頭發展,

活需求而設,數量不多,可算是當

一落、二落、三落地往後加,兩層

時的高級住宅區,許多日本人、富

樓的少見,因臺語「樓」、「流」

商、名流皆居住於此,如建成商行

The Architecture from Zhongshan Road.

同音,老一輩的說:「財產是靠水

的簡阿牛、名畫家呂鐵州、日本商

流的,樓仔厝驚乎水流去」。或許

人加藤仁作等,比起和平路,中山

也因為都是一樓厝,老闆們便花了

路的街屋更華麗,更大器。

Affected by the 1912's City Improvement Plan, all kinds of arcade facade were showcased. Many were painstakingly decorated gables; together with Heping Rd.'s shops make for 大溪 Daxi Taiwan's best Western-styled collection. The area's proximity to public facilities under the Japanese reign made its businesses conformed to the Japanese' needs, turning this into a high end residential area where many rich and famed Japanese lived, making it architecturally superior than Heping Rd's.

許多心思在牌樓面上較勁,相較之 下這兩層樓的店屋倒顯得樸素許多, 然而其紅磚砌的牌樓面仍展現了日 據時期大溪街屋的特色。

大溪中山路 19 號 興建者不詳,日治時期為酒品 販售店,走廊上的木製櫥櫃當年用

No. 19, Zhongshan Road, Daxi Its original owner was unknown, but it was a wholesale liquor business during Japanese colonial times; the wooden cabinets on the corridor used for bottle placing are kept. It underwent renovation in 1998, with partial changes to the facade, while in keeping with the Baroque-styled gables, fenced-gate at the veranda, and wooden storm shutter.

Kensei Shoco, Daxi (No. 39 Zhongshan Rd.) The Kensei Shoco was home to the camphor and coal mining tycoon Jian A-Niu. With an arched, protruding roof design, winged tower and double-pillared three-bay layout, it is an architectural grandeur that also displayed the abacus for commercial sense. Its Japanese-pronounced Romanization of

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來存放酒品,仍留存至今。此屋於 1998 年曾經整修,立面裝飾文樣部 分重作,整體外觀特色為前落的巴 洛克式立面山牆形式、騎樓的柵門

the shop name is a telling sign of the era; the black-tiled dome was covered with metal cloths, which simulates the appearance of the bronze-piece cover that is a rarity in Taiwanese housing, exhibiting a luxurious disguise. A widened shop spacing against the run-of-the-mill is another sign of owner's distinguishing presence.

和「雨戶」構造。 建成商行(中山路 39 號) 建成商行是早年大溪地區樟腦 業與煤礦業鉅子簡阿牛的住所,屋 頂採穹窿式凸出設計,有翼塔、雙

大溪蘭室(中山路 13 號)

柱式三開間,格局氣派雄偉,串珠、

蘭室由清末大溪秀才仕紳呂鷹

算盤珠等圖樣象徵做生意,穹頂中

揚所建,呂氏在地方政治上頗有地

央的「簡」字為家族姓氏。牌樓文

位,於現代教育、殖產興業、土地

字 KEN SEI SHO CO 是「建成商行」

開發及礦產經營等都有成就,曾任

日語發音的羅馬拼音,透露建造的

三角湧辦務署參事、大嵙崁辦務署

時代背景,圓頂瓦片實為黑瓦,惟

參事、大溪街街長、新竹州參事,

當時表面塗布金屬效果的材質,風

其子呂鐵州為臺灣知名膠彩畫家。

格華貴,時人以為屋瓦以銅片鋪蓋

蘭室建於 1918 年,三開間兩進

包覆,在臺灣民居街屋中更是少見。

格局,正身為紅白橫條帶飾的「辰

一般街屋臨街面都不寬,但建成商

野 式 」 風 格 搭 配 洗 石 子 花 飾, 建

行的臨街面有 3 個店面的寬度,不

築融合有閩南、西洋古典樣式,中

但具有寬敞的騎樓與較高的牌樓與

庭建有捲棚,木雕精美,表現出屋

圓頂,也凸顯了屋主的身分地位。

主對傳統與現代兼具的生活美感。

Lanshi, Daxi (No. 13 Zhongshan Rd.) Lanshi was built by the Scholar Lu in Qing Dynasty. A prominent figure in local politics, Lu was successful with modern education, fisheries, land development and mining, and occupied key political positions; his son is Taiwan's prominent Nihonga (Eastern Gouache) artist Lu Teng-Chu. Built in 1918, with two spacing’s layout at three- 大溪 bay width, there is red-white lined decoration with washed Daxi granolithic designs, makes for architecture with Fujianese and Western classic blend. Rolled canopy in the courtyard and the sophisticated woodcarving says a lot about the owner’s philosophy. The characters “Lanshi” on the arcade facade with an eagle next to it imply the family name’s magnanimity. ▓

中間牌樓上有「蘭室」二字,並有 老鷹雕塑一座,寓意主人之名「鷹 揚」,左右兩開間之牌樓則為「呂」 字,合起來為主人姓名。▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

月眉通路

Yuemei Passageway

道光 26 年(1846) 園市大溪區和平路 38 號旁巷道 桃 No. 38, Heping Rd. next to the alley Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

月眉古道是清末至日治時期, 大溪老街與月眉地區的聯絡道路。 古道的開闢源於李騰芳家族的事業。 李家開臺祖來臺後定居大溪美 華里的小角仔,其第五子後遷居產 稻的月眉,經營米穀業,加上河運 之便,大展鴻圖。 而大溪街上有許多「李金興商 號」(「李金興」即是李騰芳家族的 商號 ) 的商行與店舖,為便於商旅 往來月眉與大溪市街,而開此路,

民 國 87 年(1998 年 ) 實 施「 大 溪

路開後,月眉地區的農民也由此運

和平路美化工程」,老街居民決議

送蔬果到港口,直到河運沒落為止。

在牌樓面加上「月眉通路」四字,

月眉古道入口在和平街 38 號與

並於頂部增建一對洗石子堆花雙獅

40 號間的巷口,興建時就設有牌樓

戲綵球作為收頭,除了是月眉通路

面,好讓亭仔腳連結一線。原有的

的門面,也象徵能事事如意,好事

牌樓面僅弧形磚面承接兩側邊柱,

不斷。 現存月眉通路很短。從 和平老街走進月眉通路的入 口,沿緩坡道前行,經地下 道穿越臺三線,走到盡頭,

Yuemei Passageway is the connection between Daxi Old Street and Yuemei area. It was built during Li Tengfeng family business’ heyday. The ancestors of the Li Family came to Taiwanese and settled in Daxi. Li’s fifth son later moved to Yuemei, where the rice production based at, to start a rice business. The renowned business name Li Jin-Xing was established as he succeeded in commercial rice through river transportation. Daxi had many shocos and shops bearing the Li name; Yuemei Passageway was built to ease business travelers’ move between Daxi and Yuemei. Soon afterwards, the farmers in Yuemei also delivered produce to the port via the Passage, and continued so until the decline of river transportation. 大溪 The entry point of Yuemei Passageway is in the alley Daxi between No. 38 and No. 40 Heping Rd.. It has a built-in arcade facade that was connected to the veranda. The original design adopted concave brick walls bearing the pillars at both sides. In 1998, when the Daxi Heping Rd.. Embellishing Project was on, the Old Street residents decided to polish the facade by adding the “Yuemei Passageway” sign on the front with a washed granolithic depiction of a pair of lions playing with ornate balls to signal abundant luck. The remaining part of the Passage is not long. You can enter from Heping Old Street, continue on the gently sloping path, walk pass Provincial Hwy No. 3 via the underground and turn left to Yuemei Rd. It goes into Yuemei area, an open field of rice paddies. The name of Yuemei derived from the crescentmoon shaped terrace forming part of Dahan River. ▓

左轉接月眉路。古道終點連 接月眉地區。月眉是大漢溪 的河階地,形似月眉而得名, 田疇連綿,視野遼闊,風光 怡人。▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪石板古道

Old Stone-paved Path, Daxi

咸豐年間(1851 ~ 1861) 園市大溪區普濟路 41 巷 桃 Ln. 41, Puji Rd., Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

Built between 1851 and 1861, the Old Stone-paved Path is one of the nine historic tracks in Daxi and the hub between the Dahan River Wharf and the Daxi Old Street, thus also known as Path of Wharf. During the era when River transport was in demand, the Path is at the center of the bustle and hustle. In 1924, Taoyuan Irrigation System started drawing water from the upstream of Dahan River, greatly reducing its flow. Meanwhile, the completion of Provincial Hwy No. 1 facilitated land transportation and further weakened Path’s function as a transaction hub, leading to its eventual decline. The Path winds through a nearly 30-meter high fluvial terrace (in a form of Z) and several landmarks in between, 2.1 meters at its widest and 1.5 at narrowest. Mainly stairways with 大溪 a few slopes, the path’s design with rock (retrieved from the Daxi river bottom) dimensions that eased carriers’ steps with heavy loads. ▓

石板古道建於清代,是大溪九 大古道之一,因整條古道以石板舖 成得名,為昔日往來大漢溪碼頭與 大溪老街的主要通道,因此又名「碼 頭古道」。河運興盛時期,大漢溪 岸桅檣林立,碼頭上的挑夫呼朋引 伴趕忙搬運貨物,在古道上不斷穿 梭往返。 大 正 13 年(1924 年 ) 起 桃 園 大圳引大漢溪上游溪水灌溉,使大 漢溪流量大減,而臺北桃園間縱貫 公路完工促使陸路運輸興起,大溪 做為貨物集散轉運的功能大減,古

字形曲折蜿蜒而上,沿途經過大慶

道從此漸漸沒落。

洞口、普濟堂、黃氏家廟等地,曲

石板古道攀越近 30 公尺高的河

折的道路各段寬窄不一,寬者可達

階斷崖,自大漢溪河畔起以「之」

2.1 公尺,窄者僅 1.5 公尺,大部分 為階梯,少部分則為斜 坡。 路 面 石 材 以 大 漢 溪的溪底石鋪設而成, 寬 15~20 公 分 不 等, 高 5~10 公 分 之 間, 深 30~60 公 分, 行 走 時 極 為容易,對於昔日搬運 貨物上古道的挑夫而 言,可以較輕鬆的步伐 行進,減輕負擔。▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪公會堂

Daxi Assembly Hall

大正 10 年(1921) 園市大溪區普濟路 35、37-1 號 桃 No. 35, 37-1, Puji Rd., Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

大溪公會堂建於日治大正年 間,是一處提供市街住民集會、典 禮等公眾活動使用的公共空間,國 民政府接管臺灣後被納為總統行館, 並在西南側另建新屋作為總統及夫 人宿泊起居之用,民國 64 年(1975 年)蔣中正先生逝世,後經修建於 民 國 67 年(1978) 改 設 蔣 公 紀 念 館開放自由參觀。 大溪公會堂為洋風一層樓磚造 建築物,曾為日裕仁皇太子派「御 使差遣」(侍從官)巡視時,進餐

由於建築場域的歷史性和特殊

與休憩的場所。牆面造型有 1920 年

性,大溪公會堂和蔣公行館於民國

代藝術裝飾運動(Art Deco)之風。

94 年(2005 年 ) 規 劃 成「 大 溪 藝

Built in 1921, Daxi Assembly Hall served as a community space to meet the residents’ social needs. After Taiwan’s takeover by the Chinese Nationalists, the Hall became Chiang Kai-Shek’s Guesthouse, with new housing built on its southwest for the former President and the First lady. After Chiang’s passing in 1975, the Hall was renovated into a Memorial Hall and opened to the public. Daxi Assembly Hall is a Western-style, single-storied brick building. It served as the dining and resting place for the Japanese Crown Prince Hirohito’s Aide-de-camp when he was sent on a tour to Taiwan. The Hall’s architectural design follows Tatsuno Style, showcasing walls from Art Deco in the 1920s. Given its unique historical significance, Daxi Assembly 大溪 Hall and Chiang Kai-Shek’s Guesthouse were integrated as Daxi Daxi Artist Villa and opened to the public as a space for leisure, tourism and learning. As a part of Daxi Wood Art EcoMuseum exhibit in 2016, this is a key platform for local art and cultural scenes. ▓

文 之 家 」, 開 放 為 民 眾 休 閒、 觀 光、 學 習 的 場 所, 引 介 藝 文 資 源; 於 民 國 105 年(2016) 成 為木藝生態博物館 的 館 舍 之 一, 持 續 參與地方藝文發展, 是大溪重要的藝文 交流平臺。▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪武德殿

Martial Arts Dojo, Daxi

昭和 10 年(1935) 園市大溪區普濟路 33 號 桃 No. 33, Puji Rd., Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

日本於明治 時期創建「大日 本武德會」,武 道成為地方警察 的必修課。日治 時期武德會透過 警察系統推廣, 在各級行政區陸 續興建武德殿, 全 臺 共 建 了 70 餘座。大溪武德殿於 1935 年落成,

端的「螭吻」具有中國唐代建築風

是日治時期的郡市級武德殿之一。

格,與一般武德殿使用的日式鬼瓦

大溪武德殿以鋼筋混凝土等新

不同。屋頂如日本傳統社殿,以洋

式建材建造而成,屋頂為「入母屋

式大木桁架支撐,大門有「入母屋

造」(類似中式歇山頂),正脊兩

破風」,外牆採用洗石子裝修,並 以線腳模仿雨淋板壁。 戰後大溪公會堂設為 總統行館,因此增設大溪 憲兵隊護衛,以武德殿為 隊部。大溪憲兵隊進駐後 大幅改裝內部,並於東南 側另建一棟三層樓兵舍

During Japan’s Meiji era, the “Greater Japan Martial Virtue Society” was established, making Budo training mandatory for the police force. Its promotional efforts led to building more than 70 Halls throughout Taiwan; in 1935, Daxi’s Dojo was built and deemed at the county-level. Built with reinforced concrete and other newer materials, it has a hipand-gable roof, with a Tang Dynastystyled Qiwen (lit. “hornless dragon mouth”) on the roof’s main ridge ends, distinctly different from regular Dojo’s usage of the Japanese onigawara (“ogre 大溪 tiles”). Its roof resembles Japanese Daxi traditional shrine, a Western-styled giant wood beam as support and washed granolithic wall design, with molding as rain boards. After the Chinese Nationalists took over Taiwan, Daxi Assembly Hall became Chiang Kai-Shek’s Guesthouse, thus Daxi military police squad was set up in the Dojo. Renovations were made after the setup and dormitories added on the Southeast s i d e ( n o w Ta o y u a n Public Library’s Daxi Branch), and the Dojo is part of Daxi Wood Art EcoMuseum. ▓

(現為桃園市立圖書館大 溪分館),武德殿現今做 為大溪木藝生態博物館展 館之一。▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪國小日式宿舍

Japanese-style Residence for Daxi Elementary School

大正年間(西元 1920 年代) 桃園市大溪區中正路 68 號 No. 68, Zhongzheng Rd. Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

民國 104 年, 桃園市成立首座 博 物 館「 桃 園 市 立大溪木藝生態 博物館」,以「生 態博物館」為建 構 概 念, 館 舍 包 括大溪 22 棟日式 宿舍群及武德殿 共 23 棟 歷 史 建 築,其中日式宿舍群之一即大溪國

時期傳統木造宿舍的營建技術,保

小宿舍。

有日式建築的重要特徵。

大溪國小日式宿舍是日治時期

大溪國小日式宿舍曾為大溪國

興建的日式高架平房建築,是大溪

小校長宿舍,位於中正公園旁,佔

地區唯一留存陳述現代初等教育肇

地 30 多坪,前屋主是大溪國中的英

始的學校建築物,對臺灣日治時期

文老師陳茂林,陳家在大溪為書香

歷史發展具有重要的象徵意義,同

門第,陳茂林曾經留日,妻子為日

時保留了日式木造宿舍的形制與格

本人,還在家裡授課教縫紉。後來

局,在構造材料與工法上承襲日治

因屋況過於陳舊,陳家遂遷離。

With an open-air concept, the 2015-built Daxi Wooden Art Museum was the first eco-museum in Taoyuan City. The entire exhibition includes the Residence for Daxi Elementary School, several other Japanese-style Residences and the Butokuden Martial Arts Dojo. Residence for Daxi Elementary School is a traditionally Japanese-styled wooden pile dwelling built during the colonial times. It is the only architectural example in Daxi depicting history from the Japanese era’s modern primary education, symbolic to the understanding of Taiwanese history at the time. Located next to the Zhong-Zheng Park and 100 square meters wide, the Residence was home to many principals from Daxi Elementary School. Its last resident was Mr. Chen Mao大溪 Lin, a Daxi Junior High School’s English teacher. Born into a Daxi family of scholars, he studied in Japan, and married a Japanese lady who taught sewing at home. They eventually moved out as the housing condition deteriorated. The Residence was registered as Taoyuan’s “Historical Building” and overseen by the Cultural Affairs Bureau. It became the first exhibition opened to the public in Daxi Wood Art EcoMuseum, thus named “Hall No.1,” allowing an opening to a brand new chapter for Daxi’s cultural scenes. ▓

民國 98 年,這棟宿舍被登錄為 桃園縣「歷史建築」,由文化局接 管,其後成為「大溪木藝生態博物 館」第一棟修繕開放的空間,因此 稱為「壹號館」,原來的私人生活 場所成為公共空間,開啟了大溪文 化一扇明亮的窗。▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪警察局宿舍群

Japanese-style Residence for Daxi Police Station

明治 43 年(1910)起陸續興建 桃園市大溪區普濟路 5、7、17、19、21、23、23-1、25、27、52 號及普濟路 13 巷 1、2、3、5、6、7、9、11、13、15、17 號 No.1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, Ln. 13Puji Rd., No.5, 7, 17, 19, 21, 23, 23-1,25, 27, 52, Puji Rd., Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

大溪舊名大 嵙 崁, 自 日 本 殖 民政府設置大嵙 崁支廳起即興建 廳 舍 與 宿 舍, 其 後 歷 經 改 制, 警 政單位名稱雖有 變 更, 但 宿 舍 用 途 不 曾 變 動, 至 今少數居住者也 都是曾服務於大溪分局的人員,更

官舍,如日式宿舍與戰後的水泥房

有警員自小在此成長、日後隨父兄

舍,也有憲兵進駐臨時搭建的房舍,

投身警界,又住進本宿舍群,可說

日式宿舍因不同職級又分為二種與

這宿舍群見證了大溪百餘年來的警

等級較高的分局長宿舍及蓄水池、

政變遷。

庭院等生活設施,豐富多元的建築

大溪警察局宿舍群包含日治時 期至今各種不同用途及不同型態的

During the Japanese colonization, offices and residences were built for its officials, with Daxi named as Taikokan. While the name change took place during government restructuring, its residential purposes were kept. Today, few former officers live here, along with new officers who grew up here and followed their fathers’ career, making this a witness to Daxi’s century old policing community. The residential building was multi-purposed with varied designs, such as Japanese-style and post-colonization’s cement housing, and temporary housing for the military police. Based on duty’s hierarchy, the Japanese-style housing also included a branch director’s and lesser ranking officers’ residences, water tanks, gardens etc. Its architectural diversity highlights 大溪 noteworthy details from the era. Daxi With Daxi’s unique river terrace, a side of the residences leans next to the fault line, overlooking the splendid Dahan River, plus lush views of Shimen Mountain and nearby forests. Encapsulated in its rich natural and historic scenes, this Residence has been listed as part of Daxi Wood Art EcoMuseum in 2015, making this a unique rendering of lifestyle and memories worthy of preservation. ▓

類型,使本宿舍群具有獨特的風貌, 記錄了不少時代的痕跡。 大溪擁有特殊的河階臺地地形, 本宿舍群部分建築即緊鄰崖線,俯 瞰可見大漢溪的秀麗水色,遠望則 見石門山與員樹林一帶的鬱綠山光。 自然與時代的變遷在此造就了特殊 的文化地景,宿舍群也在民國 104 年正式成為大溪木藝生態博物館的 成員之一,讓這裡孕育的獨有生活 方式與故事,值得保留與紀錄。▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

大溪太武新村

Taiwu New Village, Daxi

民國 53 年(1964) 桃園市大溪區慈光街 Ciguang St., Daxi Dist., Taoyuan City

「 太 武 新 村」建於民國 50 年 代, 為 金 門 823 砲 戰 後 軍 方 新建的高級軍官 眷 村, 正 值 美 援 時 期, 受 到 美 式 眷 舍 影 響, 以 紅 磚、 鋼 筋 水 泥 造 四併二層樓房舍, 為三房兩廳甲種眷舍規格的美式獨

太武新村四周是閩、客混居的

門獨戶眷舍,尺度寬敞,空間疏闊。

聚落,位於大漢溪西岸,與東岸的

民國 80 年代起,隨著社會變遷

大溪老街跨溪相距 2 公里。由於建

及眷村改建,居民陸續搬遷。儘管

築紋理、眷舍空間保存完整,登錄

閒 置 超 過 20 年, 建 物 狀 況 仍 然 完

為歷史建築,於太武新村 22 號成立

整,當年種植的樹木如今都已長成

駐地工作站,並將此階段行動稱為

茂密的大樹,大多數植栽幹徑已可

「太武聚」,透過訪談及影像紀錄,

合抱,其中不乏珍貴的高級樹種。

採集在地眷村故事,未來以發展「創 造、互助、體驗」的創意平臺,鼓 勵藝術家進駐交流,塑造大溪崎頂 地區文化遊憩新據點。▓

114

Taiwu New Village was built in 1960s as the military dependents’ village for high-ranking officials after the 1958 Taiwan Strait Crisis. Given Taiwan was receiving aid from the US, the American influenced 2-storied condos were built in a three-bedroom, two-salle layout with red bricks and reinforced concrete, making for a wide and comfortable residence. Since changes in social scenes and military dependents’ village’s reconstruction in the 1990s, residents have gradually moved out. Even as it had been left aside for more than two decades, the condos’ are well-kept. Trees that were planted back in those days, including some rare, high-grade tree species, have grown bushy, with 大溪 some so big that one can simply wrap Daxi one’s arm around. Taiwu New Village is at the west shore of Dahan River, where both Minnan and Hakka people reside; a mere 2 km to the east would be Daxi Old Street. In 2009, The Village’s intact architecture and residential space has earned its registration as a “Historical Building” from Taoyuan’s Cultural Affairs Department in 2009. At this time, the Department established a studio in building No. 22 and initiated a project called “Taiwu Launchpad,” working towards building a new cultural entertainment locale in Daxi. Efforts include renovating three condos in the Village, collecting local stories, and establishing a platform for innovators and artists alike to create, brainstorm, and experience together. ▓

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山高水長

復興區 Fuxing

行政 分為 10 里

基國派教堂 新竹林區管理處 Tuba Church 大溪工作站復興分站招待所

面積 350.8 平方公里 人口 11,168 人 (2016. 11 統計)

角板山賓館

Guest House of the Fuxing Branch, Daxi Work Station, Xinzhu Forest District Office

7

佐久間總督追懷紀念碑臺基

Jiaoban Mountain Guest House

Granite Base of Memorial for Governor-General Sakuma

石門水庫

角板山薰風閣

Shihmen Reservoir

Xunfeng Ge at Jiaoban Mountain

溪口吊橋

溪口吊橋遺構

復興舊稱「角板山」,是桃園市面積最大的行政區,擁有豐富山林資源,

Xikou Suspension Bridge

Remains of Xikou Suspension Bridge

大漢溪流貫其間,自古就是泰雅族活動的天地。 從清領到日治時期,角板山的林木、樟腦、煤炭、茶都是輸出大宗,使 得大溪成為轉運大鎮;世居其間的泰雅族人,面對日本殖民政府進山挖寶的 企圖,迭有衝突,最後在臺灣總督府鐵腕之下被征服。 角板山早從日治時期就是大溪與宜蘭地區的交通要道,亦是臺灣總督府

復興區 Fuxing

討伐泰雅原住民與推行「理蕃事業」的起始地,因而成為當時的行政及山產 交易經濟中心,又因其所處位置視野展望良好,可遠眺大漢溪谷及鄰近山脈, 遂成為日治時期重要的觀光景點,其重要地位延續至今。 本區幾處文化資產如提供日本官員居住的「薰風閣」、紀念臺灣總督的

復興巴壟橋紀念柱 Revival of the Barry Bridge

「佐久間總督追懷紀念碑臺基」、戰後興建的蔣公行館「角板山賓館」、連

Fuxing

接溪口臺地與角板山的「溪口吊橋」與吊橋遺構等,皆如實反映了外來政權 在原住民區統治的歷史遺跡。「基國派教堂」則因造型獨特,而為篤信西方

復興巴陵橋暨巴陵一、二號隧道

宗教的部落居民留下最佳見證。▓

Revival of the Baling Bridge and the 1st. and 2nd. tunnel

Fuxing, formerly named “Jiaoban Mountain,” is Taoyuan’s largest administrative area. With rich forestry resources, and Dahan River flowing over, it has always been Atayal Tribe’s home. From Qing Dynasty to the Japanese colonial times, the export of wood, camphor, coal and tea in bulk made Daxi a bustling hub. As home to the Atayal Tribe, they fought against the colonial government’s looting attempts of the resources, but were eventually put down with iron fists from Office of the Taiwan GovernorGeneral. Jiaoban Mt. has always been a strategically important place. It was a hub between Daxi and Yilan areas during colonial days, and where Office of the Taiwan Governor-General started the “Savage-Taming Operations,” turning it as the then administrative and economic center for mountain products. With splendid bird’s-eye view to Dahan River and nearby mountain ranges, it also became a tourist hotspot over time. Several architecture relay stories of colonial rulings over the Aboriginals:

116

復興

7

“Xufeng Ge” (“ge” literally means “pavilion”) and “Granite Base Governor-General Sakuma Memorial” for the Japanese officers; plus the post-war built “Jiaoban Mountain Guest House,” “Xikuo Suspension Bridge,” and its remains connecting the plateau with the Jiaoban Mt., etc. Lastly, there is the uniquely designed Tuba Church that bears witness to indigenous people’s belief in Western religion. ▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

基國派教堂

Tuba Church

民國 52 年(西元 1963 年) 桃園市復興區三民村 96-3 號

No.96-3, Sanmin Vil., Fuxing Dist., Taoyuan City

位於復興 「基 國派」部落,這座造 型獨特的教堂,曾獲 選「臺灣歷史建築百 景」、「臺灣宗教百 景」。 教堂由一塊塊石 材堆砌而成,立面上 方呈弧型曲線,意味 「雲端」,入口延伸處特別設計了

天堂之鑰」;兩旁窗櫺也有中國風,

小一號的山牆,大門為圓洞樣式,

別具韻味。

與教堂本體入口形成「圓中帶方」,

這座教堂前身係以木竹建造,

象徵「鑰匙孔」,整體隱喻「通往

後因信徒漸增、不敷使用,美國傳 教士孫雅各 (Rev. James Ira Dickson) 牧 師 與 原 住 民 陳 忠 輝 陳 忠(Hola Demu)牧師、美國青年軍等便籌措 重建經費,並採用石材興建以表現 宗教的永恆特質。教堂興建時係由 信仰基督教的居民,每戶派出壯丁

The unique Tuba Church in a village in Fuxing was a winner in both “100 Taiwanese Historical Buildings” and “100 Taiwanese Religious Scenes.” Built with sturdy stones, one finds an arch-shaped facade representing “the God’s Realm,” with its Chinesestyled oval entrance as “a keyhole” suggesting “the Gateway to Paradise.” To the sides, one can appreciate the classical Chinese window lattices. 復興 The wear and tear of the wooden-bamboo-made church had Fuxing the American missionary, James I. Dickson, the aboriginal minister, Chen Zhong-Hui, and the Youth for Christ (YFC) group raise funds to rebuild it, with stones chosen for its everlasting property. This involved sons from Christian families toilling, barehandedly, to and from the Bat Cave three kilometers from the church, plus six-months of consultation from Beitou’s master stonemason to resolve issues with stone cutting. Now this is a Church that features wood truss and roof, with stonemasoned walls, an architecture that emanates simplicity and holiness. ▓

到 3 公里外的蝙蝠洞採石,徒手、 徒步搬運作為建材,並聘北投石作 匠師前來指導與興建,花了半年才 解決石材切割的技術問題。 基國派教堂典雅古樸的外觀造 型、木桁架的屋頂、石材堆砌並用 水泥漿填縫的牆面,均是特色。▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

角板山薰風閣

Xunfeng Ge at Jiaoban Mountain

日治大正年間 桃園市復興區中山路 1 號

No.1, Zhongshan Rd., Fuxing Dist., Taoyuan City

1895 年日 人 統 治 臺 灣, 為取得豐富山 林 資 源, 日 益 增強對山區的 控 制, 訂 定 「理蕃政策」、 鋪 設 鐵 道, 引 入臺車與軌 道,並於部落設置「警察駐在所」、

頗有「政績」,恭請皇太子 ( 之後

「蕃童教育所」等,深化對原住民

的大正天皇 )「臨臺行啟」,實地視

的統治。角板山一帶因係山區交通

察臺灣的產業發展,角板山為其擇

中繼點,常成為日本官員或軍隊旅

定地點之一。為迎接貴賓,特興建

宿之地,「薰風閣」即因應此類需

洋館與和館,其中洋館係模仿西方

求 而 於 明 治 43 年(1910) 興 建。

建築,專為皇太子所設置,故有「太

另因屋舍採當地木材建造,室內飄

子樓」之稱。

散木材特有香氣,而名之為「薰風 閣」。 1912 年佐久間總督認為治臺已

戰後,薰風閣、佐久間總督追 懷紀念碑與角板山分駐所等建築遭 拆除或改建,此處則改為「總統府 行館」,屬於軍事重地,一般民眾 無 法 一 窺 風 采, 民 國 65 年 改 隸 屬 「復興青年活動中心」。民國 80 年 洋館因電線走火燒毀,和館亦受波 及。和館整修時,其外觀保留原貌 修復並名為「薰風閣」,民國 88 年 竣工啟用為旅宿設施。▓

120

The Japanese took over Taiwan in 1895. To access natural resources, they tightened the control over the mountains, established “Savage-Taming Operations” policies, and laid down rails and tracks. They also reigned over the indigenous people with police stations and educational centers for “savaged children” set up in their villages. As a relay station in the mountains, the need for a travelodge for officers or the army had this place built in 1910. Plus built mainly with camphor, its rich scents were easily detected for it to be named Xunfeng Ge (lit. “Fragranced breezing chamber”). To show off his “achievements,” Governor-General Sakuma invited the Crown Prince to Taiwan to “visit” and inspect its economic 復興 progress in 1912, with Jiaoban Mt. as one of the chosen locales. Western Fuxing and Japanese-styled architecture were built for the guests, with the former designed for the Crown Prince, thus named “The Crown Prince Building.” After the Chinese Nationalists took over Taiwan, architecture in Jiaoban Mt. area were either torn down or rebuilt. Xunfeng Ge was turned into the Presidential Residence, a restricted-access area for civilians, and was not open to the public until 1976 when it became the Fuxing Youth Activity Center. A fire from power outage in 1991 burnt d o w n t h e We s t e r n - s t y l e d building, partially affecting the Japanese one. The latter reopened in 1999 after renovation, with its original facade kept. ▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

佐久間總督追懷紀念碑臺基 昭和 5 年(西元 1930) 園市復興區角板山公園內 桃 Fuxing Dist., Taoyuan City

和 5 年

(1930) 位 於 角 板 山公園內的「佐久間 總督追懷紀念碑」落 成。曾擔任臺灣總督 長達 9 年的日本陸軍 大將佐久間左馬太, 是當時以強硬軍事手 段「討伐」原住民的 政策執行者。由於角板山是「理蕃

住民的殖民歷史。此外,使用方整

事業」開始之地,是「蕃地櫥窗」,

的長方體或立方體花崗岩,水平或

故選擇將紀念碑設立於角板山。

垂直交錯疊成圓弧矮牆,乍看不規

紀念碑由花崗岩製成,圓形底

則,實際隱藏秩序,此工法被稱為

座、渦捲式階梯收頭與石砌矮牆,

「番仔砥堵砌石法」,手法精美、

嚴整而細緻的工法顯示營造的用心,

樣式獨特,臺灣部分現存古宅仍可

最引人注目的是碑體類似砲彈造型,

見此工藝。

不僅暗示佐久間的軍人出身,更強

紀念碑碑體於國民政府時期拆

烈象徵當年以強勢武力鎮壓泰雅原

除,並在原址建「復興亭」一座, 原來的臺基、矮牆、階梯與排水溝 則被保留。▓

122

Granite Base of Memorial for Governor-General Sakuma The grand opening for the Memorial for Governor-General Sakuma inside Jiaoban Mt. Park took place in 1930. Sakuma, who ruled Taiwan for 9 years, executed unbending militaristic uptake against the Atayal Tribe’s fierce resistance, coyly named “Savage-Taming Operations.” The locale was chosen to remember where the operation started. The granite stone-made round base, spiraling stairs and stone-cut low walls showcase a meticulous architectural execution. The bomb-like monument suggests not only 復興 Sakuma’s military background, Fuxing but also his brutal colonial militarism against the Atayals. Furthermore, The marble stairs were cut into rectangular or square shapes, and stacked either parallel or perpendicularly as curved protective railing. Named “Foreigner’s Stone-Cutting Skills,” it follows an irregular yet orderly pattern, harboring a sophisticated and unique design. It was torn down and replaced with the Fuxing Pavilion after the Japanese were defeated, though the platform, low walls, stairs and drainage were intact. ▓

123


歷史建築 Historic buildings

新竹林區管理處大溪工作站復興分站招待所 日治時期 園市復興區忠孝路 14 號 桃 No.14, Zhongxiao Rd., Fuxing Dist., Taoyuan City

復興分站 招待所前身為 「臺灣總督府 專賣局招待 所 」, 建 於 日 治 時 期, 屋 內 用的幾乎都是 上等臺灣檜 木, 內 部 格 局 簡 潔, 形 式 高 雅,保存完整,空間格局維持舊觀,

腦都是重要的貿易產業,因為當時

木樑柱也未更換,僅屋瓦經過整修。

全球對樟腦的需求量極大,極盛時

臺灣總督府曾在角板山區採樟

期,臺灣的樟腦產量曾高佔全球的

煉腦,並實施專賣,招待所附近就

70% 以上。主政者為了進山伐樟,

有一個「角板山樟腦收納所」,均

不惜以武力對付山區的泰雅族,之

隸屬於「專賣局」。

後取得山區控制權,並興設辦事處、

從清領至日治時期,臺灣的樟

Guest House of the Fuxing Branch, Daxi Work Station, Xinzhu Forest District Office Built during the Japanese era, the Guest House once belonged to the Monopoly Bureau of Office o f t h e Ta i w a n Governor-General. Top-quality Taiwan cypress were used for its simple and graceful interior; the original wood beam was kept, with only the roof tiles renovated. The Bureau used to harvest and monopolize the sale of camphor in Jiaoban Mountain; the “Jiaoban Mt. Camphor Storage Office” nearby belonged to it. The global demand for Taiwan’s camphor from Qing Dynasty 復興 to the Japanese ruling is quite high, even reaching to more than Fuxing 70% of world production in its heyday. This was the reason why governments in charge fought against the Atayals, and set up offices and guesthouses for the control of the mountains. Since the Nationalists took over, it became part of Xinzhu Forest District Office’s guesthouse. Given the quality of the woods, not much renovation was needed. ▓

招待所。 國民政府接收後,轉為新竹林 區管理處大溪工作站復興分站使 用,仍作為招待所。由於招待所的 樑柱都是臺檜上材,復興分站接收 後僅做維修,未做太大更動。▓

124

125


歷史建築 Historic buildings

角板山賓館

Jiaoban Mountain Guest House

民國 49 年(西元 1960 年) 桃園市復興區中正路 133-1 號

No.133-1, Zhongzheng Rd., Fuxing Dist., Taoyuan City

大漢溪流經 角板山南面時轉 了個大彎,於對 岸形成了一個大 三角,由於溪水 下切,逐漸形成 四層河階地,由 此岸望去,美麗 山水河階盡收眼底,當年故總統蔣

附近的「思親亭」,也是蔣中

中正先生因見此景,想起浙江奉化

正夫婦當年經常停留之處,蔣中正

溪口的故鄉,便在角板山上建造賓

先生過世後,經國先生常在此駐足

館,並將對岸河階地命名為「溪口

憑弔,還寫下〈梅臺思親〉一文追

臺地」。

懷親恩。從思親亭往下望,大漢溪

角 板 山 賓 館 今 為「 文 化 故 事 館」。內部規劃常態展,搭配影片, 展示蔣中正夫婦與蔣經國先生的舊 照、日常用物與書畫作品。

的河階地形一覽無遺,天氣晴朗無 雲無霧時,還可望見溪口吊橋。 公園內的梅樹林每年 12 月下旬 到翌年元月中旬,大片白梅盛開, 彷彿降雪,為角板山一大盛景,遊 逛其中,還可欣賞融入自然的國際 雕塑作品;行館旁尚有深入地下 20 公尺的戰備隧道,用作戰時軍事指 揮所;此外,整修完成的「角板山 樟腦收納所」也在附近,可藉以了 解日治時期角板山的樟腦產業開發 歷程。▓

126

As Dahan River bends south when passing by the Jiaoban Mountain and forms a triangle, the river terrace shapes up into splendid nature. It reminded the then president Chiang Kai-shek of his homeland in China, thus built the presidential guesthouse after taking over Taiwan, and named it Xikou Plateau. The guesthouse is now “Cultural Story House,” and hosts a permanent exhibition of memorabilia with a complimentary video to display pictures 復興 from the Chiang family members, daily Fuxing objects and artistic relic. Nearby Parents Remembrance Pavilion was an area the Chiangs frequented. His son also made regular visits upon Chiang Kai-shek’s passing, and was inspired to write “In Memory of Father in Mei-Tai (Plum Flower Garden),” which originated the naming of the Pavilion. Peering down, one can see Dahan River’s terrace formation around the river bend, even spot the suspension bridge on a clear day. The blooming of white flowers from old plum trees inside Jiaoban Mt. Park makes for a great snowy scene from each mid-December to January; one can also appreciate sculpture pieces that blend into the nature. A 20-meter deep tunnel for military command is found next to the guesthouse. Furthermore, the nearby and now renovated old camphor storage house has a display of Taiwan’s camphor industry under the Japanese colonization. ▓

127


歷史建築 Historic buildings

溪口吊橋遺構

Remains of Xikou Suspension Bridge

日治時期 桃園市復興區澤仁村

Fuxing Dist., Taoyuan City

溪口吊橋位於 石 門 水 庫 上 游, 跨 越 大 漢 溪, 連 接 角 板 山 與 溪 口 部 落, 其高度與長度皆頗 具 規 模, 為 部 落 居 民對外聯絡要道。 舊時穿過角 板 山 公 園 往 下 走, 步行約 1 公里便抵 達 溪 口 吊 橋, 吊 橋 十分狹窄,一次只能通行 15 人,橋 面以長條木片鋪成兩條狹道,來往 行人擦肩而過。溪口吊橋在建設的 歷程中,材質、位置先後不同,日 治時期最早興建的吊橋為鐵線橋, 位於今日新橋西邊,現尚存基座遺 構。隨著材料及工法演進,戰後改 以鋼纜興建,隨著時間過去,鋼纜

吊橋的橋體也漸漸老舊,復興區公 所再於原地興建「新溪口吊橋」, 於 2016 年完工。新橋增加鋼纜強 度,光鋼索母線即重達 12.5 噸,全 長 303 公尺,為全臺最長的「吊床 式吊橋」,提供部落居民更便捷安 全的使用通路,舊橋功成身退,僅 保留原有橋塔。 鐵線橋與舊鋼纜橋於完成各 階段任務後逐一功成身退,鐵線橋 遺構與舊鋼纜橋橋塔,承載著過去 的歲月,在這塊土地繼續守護來往

Crossing over Dahan River, Xikou Suspension Bridge sits on the upstream of Shimen Resevoir and connects Jiaoban Mountain and Xikou Village. Impressive in both height and size, it allows the villagers to reach to the outer world. In the old days, the Suspension Bridge is one-kilometer walk into Jiaoban Mt. Park. The wooden planks on the bridge are so narrowed that only 15 passers-by can pass rubbing shoulders at once. The original was built with iron wire during the Japanese colonial 復興 era west to the current one, with Fuxing only the pedestal left. After the Nationalists took over Taiwan, steel was applied following discoveries of better materials and engineering methods. The steel body became tarnished over time, thus the local district office built the New Xikou Suspension Bridge on site. Completed in 2016 with rebar wire that weights 12.5 tons, it became the longest stressed ribbon bridge in Taiwan, and a safer commuting route for villagers. Today only the remains of the iron-wired bridge and the old steel bridge tower are left, showing the design of the bridge and a way of life in the old days as it continues its function. ▓

的遊人與居民。▓

128

129


歷史建築 Historic buildings

復興巴陵橋暨巴陵一、二號隧道 民國 55 年(1966)

Baling Bridge and Baling Tunnels No. 1 and No. 2, Fuxing

臺七線 47k+960 附近

7th Provincial Highway near 47k +960

巴陵橋 工程於民國 53 年動工, 民 國 55 年 竣工。橋長 160 公 尺、 淨 寬 4.6 公 尺,橫跨大 漢溪、橋面 距離溪底 深 約 48 公

壟橋紀念柱。二號隧道長 79 公尺,

尺。工法採加勁鋼橫梁單孔吊橋,

走在隧道內可發現有兩個大窟窿,

鋼樑使用電焊,跟復興橋相同,兩

是日治時期所開鑿之巴壟隧道遺跡,

者也是臺灣地區首次採用這種工法。

當時由手工鑿穿,長約 30 公尺,後

結構專家陳文奇工程司住持橋體設

來因巴陵二號隧道工程所截穿。

計,唐榮臺北機械廠製造鋼構建。

民 國 94 年 巴 陵 大 橋 開 通 啟 用

巴陵一、二號隧道是當初為貫

後,巴陵橋及其隧道便功成身退停

通公路、連結巴陵橋所開鑿。一號

止車輛通行,僅供步行;目前隧道

隧道長 68 公尺,復興端出口旁有巴

空間內規劃有復興特色及泰雅族文 化展示,與巴陵橋一齊轉型成為遊

Construction of Baling Bridge commenced in 1964 and was completed in 1966. The bridge was designed by the construction expert Chen Wen-Qi from the Engineering Bureau, and built by Tangrong Taipei Machine Factory. It spans over Dahan River and is 160 meters long and 4.6 meters wide, plus 48 meters down to the riverbed. Simliar to Fuxing Bridge, it was built as a single-span arch suspension bridge with electrically-welded reinforced steel beam. Such adoption of engineering method is a first in Taiwan. Baling Tunnels No. 1 and No. 2 were built to connect the Baling Bridge to the highway. Tunnel No. 1 is 68-meter long with Balon Iron-Wire Memorial Post standing by the Fuxing Exit. Tunnel No. 2 is 79-meter long; two giant caves were found; these were remains from the old section built during the Japanese ruling. Both were 復興 Fuxing about 30 meters long, originally dug by hand; later on, though, the construction of Baling Tunnel No. 2 had broken these through. As the New Baling Bridge opened to the public, it became a recreational site together with the tunnels-turnedtouristic walkways that exhibit Fuxing specialties and Atayal culture. ▓

憩觀光之地。▓

130

131


歷史建築 Historic buildings

復興巴壟橋紀念柱

Balon Iron-Wire Bridge Memorial Post, Fuxing

大正 3 年(1914) 臺七線 47k+960 附近

7th Provincial Highway near 47k +960

紀念柱位在巴陵一號隧道口外

是由總督府土木局所施作的鐵線橋,

左側,柱高約 8 公尺,柱身一端刻

原橋身約長 170 公尺、寬 2 公尺,

有「バロン橋」(バロン音近巴壟);

竣工當年設立了紀念柱。巴壟橋後

另一端刻有完工時間及建造單位「大

來因開發北橫公路,為興建巴陵橋

正三年十月成工 土木局」。巴壟橋

而拆除,現僅留存此紀念柱。▓

復興 Fuxing

Standing to the left of Baling Tunnel No. 1 exit is the eightmeter tall Balon Iron-Wire Bridge Memorial Post. Its Japanese name ( バ ロ ン ) is engraved on one side of the post, while the construction time (Oct, 1914) and the builder’s name (Civil Engineering Bureau, Taiwanese Government-General) are carved on the other. The original Balon Bridge was iron-wired, 170 meters long, and 2 meters wide, with the Post built at its completion. The bridge was later dissembled due to the construction of Baling Bridge as a part of the Northern Cross-Country Highway; only the Post remains. ▓

132

133


天空之城

大園區 Dayuan

行政 分為 18 里 面積 87.39 平方公里 人口 86,980 人 (2016. 11 統計)

桃園國際機場

15

Taoyuan International Airport 4

大園境內有條老街溪,而老街溪是桃園市境內長度僅次於大漢溪的河 流,對於聚落的形成也具有關鍵性影響。 離老街溪不遠,大園國小校內,就發現一個新石器時代晚期的文化遺跡, 推測是介於「圓山」與「植物園」之間的過渡型文化,並參雜有零星的新石 器時代中期之「訊塘埔文化」,距今約 3,000 到 1,700 年左右,稱為「大園 尖山遺址」。

大園尖山遺址 Jianshan Archaeological Site, Dayuan

110

大園區

Dayuan

前空軍桃園基地設施群 前空軍桃園基地設施群 Former Former Taoyuan Taoyuan the the ROCAF ROCAF base base

大園昔稱大坵園,過去盡是大片大片的旱地,而漢人稱旱田為「園」, 因而名之。明鄭時期已有先民開墾;清雍正年間,則逐漸有了較多來自福建

2

31

彰、泉的移民,開始在大坵園形成聚落。 大園桃園國際機場是臺灣通往世界的大門,在冷戰時期,曾建有空軍照

大園

相技術隊營舍,是空軍三十五中隊(黑貓中隊)執行情報蒐集與偵照任務的

Dayuan

重地。隨著時代變遷,軍備撤離,戒備森嚴的禁地轉為歷史文化空間。▓

As the second longest river after Dahan River in Taoyuan, Laojie River flows through Dayuan and plays a key role in the formation of early human settlement. Jianshan Archaeological Site was found near the river inside today’s Dayuan Elementary School. It has been speculated to be a transitional period between Yuanshan and Botanic Garden Culture dating to between 3000 and 1700 years ago, mixing with random remnants from Xutangpu Culture of the mid Neolithic era. Dayuan means ‘big dry lands’ in mandarin, which speaks to the area’s vast wasteland. Early development took place in Koxinga’s time (1662-83), with villages built after Fujian immigrants’ arrival (mainly from Zhangzhou and Quanzhou) in early 18th century. Today, Taoyuan International Airport in Dayuan serves as Taiwan’s gateway to the world, yet it used to be an off-limit zone during the Cold War. Black Cat

134

Squadron was based here, in the barracks of the ROCAF Photography Technology Squad, to execute the ultra-high altitude reconnaissance missions for intelligence gathering. As time goes by, the military withdrew the troops and equipment, making this a historic and cultural venue for the public. ▓

135


遺址 Ruin

大園尖山遺址

Jianshan Archaeological Site, Dayuan

發現年代:1945 年 桃園市大園區大園國小

Dayuan Primary School., Dayuan Dist., Taoyuan City

大園尖山遺址 目前為桃園市境內 唯 一 的 指 定 遺 址, 含有豐富的新石器 時 代 晚 期「 圓 山 」 與「 植 物 園 」 文 化 堆 積, 及 零 星 新 石 器時代中期之訊塘 埔文化。 遺址範圍含大 園國小校地與校外 西 側 田 地, 老 街 溪

用的石斧、石鋤、砍砸器,以及切

與 新 街 溪 間 一 個 約 20 公 尺 高 小 丘

割用的石片器、木工用的石錛、狩

上。1945 年為大園國小徐張水流校

獵用的石鏃(箭頭)、製作魚網用

長所發現,其後歷經 1949 至 2010

的網墜、捶打用的石錘、磨製石器

年等幾次調查與試掘,發掘出大量

用的砥石、石砧等,顯現其為農耕

陶器與石器,主要有盛物用的罐、

漁獵並行的生活方式。

缽,紡紗用的陶紡輪,砍伐與掘地

尖山遺址的特色除了是臺灣學 界第一個考古田野實習地點外,且 從其出土現象與文物看來,遺址涵 蓋時間長達一千多年,串連起新石 器時代的圓山文化、植物園文化以 及鐵器時代的十三行文化;多類型 石材顯示了其高超的工藝技術;多 樣性的陶器則佐證了當時臺灣島內 互動幅員遼闊且交流頻繁。▓

136

Jianshan is the only designated archaeological site in Taoyuan to date, with significant amount of rare remnants of Yuanshan and Botanic Garden Culture from the late Neolithic era and its preceding Xutangpu Culture, evidencing early human activities. The Site is on a 20-meter high hill between Laojie and Xinjie River, covering parts of Dayuan Elementary School and rice fields to the west. First discovered by Principal Xu-Zhang in 1943, earthenware and stone artifacts were found between 1949-2010, including pottery spindles 大園 for spinning, and a wide range of stone- Dayuan made items: jars, bowls for containers, axes, hoes and choppers for tree-cutting and ground-digging, flattened knives, arrows, net sinkers, hammers, grindstones, anvils for hunting. The discovery indicated coexistence between agriculture, fishing and hunting. This was where the first archeological study has been conducted in Taiwan. Artifacts found showed the area had over 1000 years of human presence, from Yuanshan and Botanical Garden Culture in late Neolithic era and Shi-san-hang Culture from the Iron Age. A wide range of stone artifacts and earthenware showcased the Culture’s superior craftsmanship and evidenced frequent interaction and exchanges in Northern Taiwan at the time. ▓

137


歷史建築 Historic buildings

前空軍桃園基地設施群

Former Taoyuan Air Base Facilities

昭和 19 年(1944) 園市大園區建國十一村 129 號 桃 No.129, Jianguo 11th Vil., Dayuan Dist., Taoyuan City

2 增城作業區

1 4 6 7

1. 美軍暨空勤生活區 2. 修復棚廠區

5

3. 35 中隊飛機棚廠 4. 六大隊飛行作業區 5. 耐爆指揮所暨氣象觀測所 6. 照相技術隊營舍 7. 05 警戒區

「前空軍桃園基地設施群」包

前 空 軍 桃 園 機 場 興 建 於 1944

含 7 處設施群,分別為美軍暨空勤

年,是日本「第十號作戰準備」下

生活區、修復棚廠區、35 中隊飛機

的產物,時稱桃園飛行場,附近民

棚廠、六大隊飛行作業區、耐爆指

眾 則 稱 之 為 水 斗 機 場 或 箍 仔 內。

揮所暨氣象觀測所、照相技術隊營

1945 年曾轉作特攻作戰之發進飛行

區、05 警戒區,為國內除役後保存

場,並在同年 4 至 5 月間進行 3 次

最完整的軍事基地,且是冷戰時期

的特攻作戰。日本戰敗後,基地由

唯一可以深入大陸進行偵照的 U2 高

我方接收。其中耐爆指揮所暨氣象

空偵察機之駐紮基地,見證黑貓中

觀測所為基地內少數的日遺設施,

隊在冷戰時期美軍協防臺灣特殊、

極具文化資產價值。

技術人員交流之歷史過程。

138

3

1950 年 6 月 25 日 韓 戰 爆 發,

The former Taoyuan Air Base is the best kept abandoned military base and has seven facilities: US Army and Aircrew’s Living Circle, Repair Hangar, Hangar of ROCAF 35th Squadron, No. 6 Squadron Preflight Preparation Zone, the Bomb-Proof Command Post and the Weather Station, Photography Technology Squad, and 05 Alert Area (see photo). This was also the only base that successfully penetrated into the Mainland China to gather intelligence using the Lockheed U-2 aircrafts. The collaboration between Black Cat Squadron and the US Army for Taiwan’s Defense during the Cold War made this a site with unique historical significance. Former Taoyuan Air Base was built in 1944 as part of the Japanese Military Operation Number 10, also named as Taoyuan Airdrome, Shuidou Airport or Guzainei (lit. main hub) by the locals. Assigned as a Special Attack Unit, it executed three missions during April-May of 1945. With Japan’s defeat, the Nationalists’ government took it over. In it, the 大園 Bomb Disposal Military Command Center and the Weather Station are Dayuan few of the invaluable cultural remains from the Japanese. With the outbreak of the Korean War on June 25, 1950, the US proactively offered military aid to its allies to prevent the spread of communism. The US Army and Air Duty Zone, complete with walls, guards and access control, was established to meet (American) personnel’s residential needs, restricting access from the ROC Air Force. The ROC government then collaborated with US’s CIA on intelligence-gathering missions over Mainland China. The US provided the Lockheed U-2 aircrafts to t h e Ta i w a n e s e pilots. The 35 ROCAF Squadron (nicknamed Black Cat Squadron)

35 中隊飛機棚廠

139


空軍照相技術營舍

此 外, 由 於 U-2 偵察機為高空偵察 機,飛行員必需遵守 嚴格管制,加上任務 機密之故,所有飛行 員執勤前必需先至基 地待命,因此,美方 另興建隊員專屬宿 舍,並為保密而與其

美國開始積極對外展開軍事援助, 以阻止共產勢力的擴張。基地內的

他空勤宿舍相隔遙遠。

美軍暨空勤生活區即是當時所建立,

隨著美國對中共政策逐漸轉

供美軍及相關人員使用,周遭尚設

向,東亞情勢亦隨之轉變,美軍顧

有圍牆與衛哨,管制進出人員,我

問團在臺的角色逐漸轉為諮詢性

方空軍無法自由進出。

質,大批美軍顧問從駐地撤出,此

之後美國與我方合作進行「快

區轉而為我方空勤所使用。另,為

刀計畫」,以大陸為偵照對象,由

衛戍首都,基地跑道兩側皆設有警

美方提供 U-2 偵察機,我方提供飛

戒區,其中又以「05 警戒區」擔負

行員,並成立 35 中隊 ( 黑貓中隊 )。

絕大多數的警戒任務而更顯其重要

此中隊原以日治時期舊棚廠區為作

性。

業範圍,後來特別興建專屬棚廠(H5

102 年 6 月 部 隊 全 數 調 遷, 軍

棚廠),以進行各項任務作業。從

事重地終卸下任務,轉為歷史文化

1961 年到 1974 年間,空軍飛行員

空間。▓

在此進行多達 220 次的高空偵察任 務,曾偵察到中國第一、二次核彈 試爆,為冷戰時期取得相當多重要 情資。 U-2 偵照所得之拍攝底片,則在 照相技術隊營區與增城作業區處理, 其內部空間係根據照相調製、判讀、 製圖等一貫作業流程來設計,並配 有獨立的空調設備、緊急發電機與 獨立供水系統。營區戒備森嚴,即 使長官或美籍顧問來訪,皆需專人 引導換證,始得入內。

H1 場修棚廠

was thus formed. The Squadron had its base on the old hangar from the Japanese era, but was later moved to the H5 Hangar built for its operation. From 1961 to 1974, up to 220 ultra-high altitude reconnaissance missions were carried out, gathering large amounts of critical intelligence information during the Cold War, including the first two nuclear tests in China. The negatives collected by U-2 reconnaissance missions were taken care of in the Photography Technology Squad and Zengcheng Operating Zone. Its architecture was designed to streamline photography processing with photo modulation, identification and drafting. It also has a standalone air-conditioner, power generator and water supply system. Access control to the area was strict; even personnel with official duties and the US consultants must go through ID check before entry. In addition, pilots flying Lockheed U-2 aircrafts for highly confidential ultra-high altitude reconnaissance missions were under strict orders to standby at the Base before assignments. To further secure classified information, the US built a separate residential unit far away from other teams. With new developments in the US’s policy towards China, and changes in East Asia, the role of the US military became consulting- 大園 b a s e d ; g r o u p s o f p e r s o n n e l Dayuan withdrew from the Air Base, and the area was later taken over by the ROC Air Force. To safeguard the capital, alert areas were set on both sides of the runway; the 05 Alert Area, in particular, played a critical role as it bore most of the alert missions. In June 2013, the squad withdrew in its entirety, with its significance turned from an access-controlled military base, to a public-oriented cultural-historic space. ▓

耐爆氣象觀測所

140

警戒機庫與警戒室

141


河驛新都 中 區

行政 分為 85 里 面積 76.52 平方公里 人口 395,690 人 (2016. 11 統計)

Zhongli

原中壢高中教師 宿舍白馬莊 White-Horse Villa, Staff Residence for Former Zhongli Senior High School

1

中壢聖蹟亭及東伯公 Shengji Incinerator and Temple of Eastern Land Deity, Zhongli

1 113

Japanese-style Residence for Xinjie Elementary School, Zhongli

中壢警察局日式宿舍群 Japanese-style Residence for Zhongli Police Station

中壢居桃園市中央,與市內最多行政區鄰接,也是桃園、新竹往來交通 要道、物產集散中心,更是桃園客家文化重鎮。 老街溪與新街溪間的谷地,為中壢早期拓墾區域,中壢的城市開發動線

中壢新街國小日式宿舍 中壢中平路縣府日式宿舍 Japanese-style Residence for County Government on Zhongping Road, Zhongli

中壢國小日式宿舍

中 區

Japanese-style Residence for Zhongli Elementary School

就在兩溪間,因閩客衝突及鐵路開拓而擴張、移轉、漸變,形成今天的河岸

Zhongli

文化城市。 客家人稱河流為「澗」、凹陷坑谷地形為「壢」,「澗仔壢」即因位於 溪間谷地得名。清乾隆 50 年(1785)於今臺北、新竹兩地設縣,澗仔壢正 位於兩地途中,故取其「中」字,改名「中壢」,為往來商旅投宿之地。乾 隆年間由廣東客家人陸續開發,今日中壢已是南桃園的重心都市,亦為北臺 灣的客家重鎮。 中壢區域規劃完整,依地形分為市中心、內壢、龍岡、大崙四區域。其

112

中壢馬祖新村 Mazhu New Village, Zhongli

中壢龍岡圓環軍人雕像及 文藝活動中心 Longgang Roundabout with Soldier statue and Recreational Center, ZhongliYangmei

地勢高而平坦,境內水渠豐沛,老街溪、新街溪蜿蜒市區而過,農作又得桃 園與石門大圳灌溉之利,常年豐收。而自石門水庫完工後,耕作、飲水更不 虞匱乏,可謂集天時、地利、人和於一區的「人間桃源」。 此地保有不同時期的文化資產,日式建築有「中壢中平路縣府日式宿 舍」、「中壢警察局日式宿舍群」、「中壢國小日式宿舍」及「中壢新街 國小日式宿舍」等;在地客家風貌之「中壢聖蹟亭及東伯公」、體現戰後 1970 年代之現代建築「中壢高中單身教師宿舍白馬莊」、濃厚軍事色彩之 「中壢龍岡圓環軍人雕像及文藝活動中心」、眷村文化之「中壢馬祖新村」, 映襯著中壢豐富、多元之文化特色,同時促進在地文化能量向下扎根、蓬勃 發展。▓ At the center of Taoyuan City, Zhongli borders with the most number of administrative districts. It is the transportation hub and goods distribution center for towns nearby, and serves as the area's Hakka cultural epicenter. Zhongli’s early development started in the valley between Laojie and Xinjie Rivers. With Zhang-Quan feud and railway extension, its population expanded

142

outwards, gradually turning it into today’s riverside city. “Zhongli” used to be called as “Jianzi Li,” meaning “the area between the streams” in Hakka. It was renamed Zhongli given the area sat in between Taipei and Xinchu (“Zhong” = “center” in mandarin). It became a resting stop for commuting 中壢 traders. In 18th century, groups of Hakkas originated from Guangdong settled in, Zhongli and gradually developed it into a core city in Taoyuan, both in administration and (Hakka) culture. Administratively, the well-planned Zhongli is divided into four areas: city center, Neili, Longgang, and Dalun. Abundant water resources from Laojie and Xinjie Rivers, and Taoyuan Irrigation brought healthy crop yields. With Shimen Reservoir's completion, even the stars seemed to have aligned, turning the area into "a paradise on earth." The district has cultural heritage sites from different eras. For Japanese-style residences, there are the ones for Zhongping Road, Zhongli Police Station, Zhongli Elementary School, and Zhongli Xinjie Elementary School. Ones with Hakka flair, Zhongli Incinerator and Temple of East Lord Deity are in. Post-70s modern architecture style can be found in the White Horse Villa, former staff residence of Zhongli Senior High School. For a peek into military history, there are Longgang Roundabout, and Mazhu New Village. All such offer a glimpse into a rich, diverse and thriving population's cultural rooting efforts. ▓

143


歷史建築 Historic buildings

中 中平路縣府日式宿舍 日治時期 園市中壢區中平路 74 之 1 號、78 之 1 號 桃 No.74-1.78-1, Zhongping Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City

Japanese-style Residence for County Government on Zhongping Road, Zhongli A Japanese-style semi-detached housing, the Residence for County Government on Zhongping Road was home to Mr. Wang of the Indigenous Peoples Department, and Mr. Liao of the Education Bureau for about six decades. In 2010, it was registered as a Historic Building and turned into “Zhongping Road Story House,” following the city government’s promise to carry out related research and its renovation. At the entrance, the sight of honeycomb briquettes piled into a wall was eye-opening for those who never used charcoal for cooking and boiling water. The Museum exhibits the Residence’s restoration process, relaying the team’s effort to balance between the traditional and the modern construction methods. A portrayal of the Hakka lifestyle is found: numerous old photos and memorabilia, a well-kept outdoors well, the pigsty and the garden.

中壢中平路 縣府日式宿舍 為一雅緻的日式 雙拼宿舍,曾住 有時任山地課課 長的王國治先生 及教育局的廖運 全先生兩家人, 乘 載 兩 家 近 60 年 的 生 活 記 憶。 宿 舍 於 民 國 99 年

配置設有水泥砂漿粉光地坪、磚柱

(2010)登錄為歷史建築,後續展

基座與磚牆基座,牆體為日式編竹

開調查研究及修繕工程,並以「中

泥牆,室內視覺可及之處,編竹泥

平路故事館」於民國 104 年 5 月正

牆表面以白灰粉刷修飾,天花板與

式開幕迎賓,對外營運。

遮蔽處則以直接外露方式呈現。

故事館入口由多顆蜂窩煤球排

曾經幽靜的巷弄聚落,今日在

成矮牆,讓家中不用再生火燒水、

中平路繁華商圈裡,維繫著舊日共

煮飯的孩子們大開眼界,館舍除了

同記憶,繼續述說這個城市的古往

呈現整修過程、傳統工法融合創新

今來。▓

The Residence is a Class B Japanese official housing, with an interior design of the stamping (lower-level entry point in Japanesestyle residence), the hall (stilted floor by the stamping), the Washitsu (Japanese-style rooms), the family room, the engawa, the bathroom, and the kitchen, commonly found in the Kanto region of Japan. Its foundation beds were laid based on available spacing with cemented flooring, bricked pillars and walls. The bamboo walls are painted with 中壢 Zhongli lime ash; the ceiling and screening area are exposed. Once a tranquil spot, today the Residence stands as the city’s memory at the center of the affluent Zhongping commercial area. ▓

設計等概念外,內部陳列了許多老 照片與老物件,屋後庭院保有水井 與豬圈,讓來客略窺此地早期客家 人的生活樣貌。 此雙拼宿舍為「田舍間」尺寸 計 劃 之 乙 種 官 舍, 室 內 配 有「 踏 込」、「玄關」、「座敷」、「居間」、 「緣側」、「浴室」與「炊事場」 等空間;基座因應空間形式與柱位

144

145


歷史建築 Historic buildings

中 警察局日式宿舍群

Japanese-style Residence for Zhongli Police Station

推測建於明治三十四年(西元 1901) 桃園市中壢區中和路 287、291、293 號,延平路 627 號

No.287, 291, 293, Zhonghe RD., No.627, Yanping Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City

中壢分局現 址為日治時期的 中壢郡役所,推 測分局的日式宿 舍為中壢支廳設 立後所建。中壢 地區在日治時期 行政變遷的歷史 沿 革 上,「 中 壢 街」為一重要地 方行政機構的設 置區域,「桃園廳」時期的中壢支

經不同案例比對可知該等級宿舍的

廳及「新竹州」時期的中壢郡役所,

主空間有「應接室」或「書齋」,

分別以「興南庄」與「石頭庄」做

次要空間有「踏込」、「玄關」、

為不同時期的地方官署建地,隨著

「炊事場」、「女中部屋」、「浴室」

廳舍建立,周邊陸續形成官舍區。

與「廁所」等空間,周邊環境則因

過去的中壢支廳、中壢郡役所 之土地,仍保留日治時期之宿舍建

146

應排水考量,設有「排水溝」與「犬 走」。

築,本區警察宿舍,為日治時期保

宿舍經日治時期、國民政府遷

甲制度下,以「保甲聯合會」名義

臺、動員戡亂時期至今,見證了臺

合資興建。當時住戶不僅有日人,

灣警政及邁向民主的歷程。未來將

臺灣人莊聖廷也以「巡查」身分入

以城市發展歷程、人物故事等主題

住。宿舍規模分別為高等官第四種

展示,並以市民參與、賦權社區等

宿舍、判任官甲種宿舍、判任官乙

方式維運;中壢警察日式宿舍象徵

種宿舍等,當時依職等分配不同級

著空間解放、翻轉中壢文化地景的

別宿舍;高等官舍設計較有彈性,

里程碑。▓

The Police Station sits at where it used to be Zhongli Town Hall, and its Japanese-style residence was built likely after the administrative branch was established. Under the Japanese ruling, Zhongli’s administrative status has been upgraded from Town to County following different re-designations and set up offices in Towns of Xinnan and Shitou, with official residences built next to these. T h e p o l i c e s t a t i o n ’s residence was established with funding from Baojia Association, a community-based organization for law enforcement and civil control. Residents in this building include not only Japanese but Taiwanese police officers. The Residence was built for higher- (4th grade and up) and lower-ranking (Class A and B) officials, and assigned according to their positions. The former has a more varied design including a reception room or study, a stamping, an entryway, a kitchen, a maid’s room, a 中壢 Zhongli bathroom, and toilets, with drainage and berms on the outside. The Japanese-style residence has lived through the Japanese and Nationalists’ ruling, bearing witness to the historical development of Taiwan’s policing and democratization. Stories on city’s progress and citizen engagement will be exhibited. The Residence is a key milestone on Taiwan’s path towards democratization, forever changing Zhongli’s social landscape. ▓

147


歷史建築 Historic buildings

中 國小日式宿舍 日治時期 桃園市中壢區博愛路 52、56 號

No.52, 56, Bo'ai Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City

中壢國小日式 宿舍推測建於大正 6 年(1917), 為 中壢支廳及中壢公 學校設立後供公務 員 居 住, 戰 後 則 作 為 學 校 宿 舍 使 用, 居住者多為中壢國 小校長及老師。 根據 1948 年的 航 照 圖, 中 壢 公 學 校 對 面 是 遙 拜 所, 斜對面為中壢郡役所及武德殿,學

設立之初等教育機構,見證桃園市

校、郡役所周邊散布許多宿舍,外

教育發展,而中壢國小日式宿舍承

圍還有中壢小學校(今中壢家商)、

載著中壢居民、師生共同生活記憶。

農業倉庫、豬埔(豬隻交易場)、

未來也將以「親子、教育」為目標,

市場等等,當時為市中心。日治時

提供一處兒童閱讀、舉辦講座及餐

期官舍依居住者的官職、職等,定

飲、休閒空間,透過老照片與當地

有制式之建築標準,中壢國小日式

人物成長、生活故事的蒐集,保存

宿舍屬判任官官舍標準甲種一戶建

當地記憶並豐富館舍展示內容。▓

Japanese-style Residence for Zhong-Li Elementary School The Japanese-style Residence was built around 1917 for the officials serving at the area’s administrative office and Public School. After Taiwan’s takeover (1945), it was turned into the principal and teacher’s dormitory for the Zhongli Elementary School. An aerial photograph in 1948 shows the layout of Zhongli’s city center: opposite to the Public School stood the shrine, with Zhongli Town Hall, Butokuden Martial Arts Dojo, schools, and scattered dormitories across the street, surrounded by Zhongli Elementary School (today’s vocational school), the Barn, and the pig-trading market etc. The Japanese assigned housing per strict standards based on the officials’ rankings and positions. This Residence has both Class A/ stand-alone and Class C/ semi-detached buildings built with Japanese tiles, Onigawara (ogre tiles), ceramic tiles, woods, cement, and plaster, incorporating a typical Japanese plastered wall and added rainproof (planks) covers. As the first primary educational institution set up during the Japanese era, The Elementary School bore witness to educational progress in Taoyuan, and shared memories among school staff and students. A cultural and recreational space themed “Family, Education” is also planned, offering exhibits, kids’ reading areas and cafes for the community. ▓ 中壢 Zhongli

及丙種二戶建之規模。建築構造主 要採木造與磚造共構,裝修材料有 日本瓦、鬼瓦、磁磚、木材、水泥、 灰泥等;牆體為日本傳統建築常見 的真壁式結構,外牆裝有雨淋板。 中壢國小為日治時期中壢最早

148

149


中 新街國小日式宿舍 昭和 9 年(1934) 桃園市中壢區延平路 176 號

No.176, Yanping Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City

創校於日治 時期的新街國小, 於校內北側有座 歷史悠久的日式 宿舍,建於昭和 9 年(1934), 原 作為教職員宿舍, 如今成為學校重 要特色空間,設有日式宿舍時空走

和整修工程,歷經 6 年於民國 98 年

廊木棧道、生態景觀水池及導覽解

(2009)修繕完成,新街國小隨後

說牌等。

推動學校特色課程,於隔年定位宿

本宿舍為雙拼日式宿舍,屬判

舍為「新街藝文館」。校方將新街

任官乙種官舍,建築平面呈一字型。

藝文館融入於日常教學如弦樂、和

為適應臺灣特殊的風土氣候,外牆

太鼓、劇場表演等,不僅通過學校

作有雨淋板之結構,防止雨水滲入

特色課程的認證,更活用宿舍空間

牆壁,地板及基座抬高約 60 公分,

作為教師研習、學生藝文展示及表

床部則設有通風口,以利防潮、防

演空間等。▓

暑。其斜屋頂高低層次有變化, 現覆以灰黑色水泥瓦,前後有 院子,牆四周保存完整,周圍 為榕樹、樟樹、櫸木、大葉桉 等大樹環繞之濃蔭樹林生態景 觀區。 這棟歷史建築在學校及地

Japanese-style Residence for Xinjie Elementary School, Zhongli This historical Japanesestyle Residence was built in 1934 at the north corner following the completion of Xinjie Elementary School. Originally the dormitory for the school’s staff, now it features a timeline of the housing history on a timber deck, an ecological landscape pond and interpretive sign posts. The Residence is a Class B official housing for lower-ranking officials with a dualoccupancy design and unified facade. Rainproof walls, wooden piled dwelling (height at c. 60cm), and air vents were installed to keep from heat and humidity. Its sloping roof is multi-leveled and covered with black cement tiles. The wall is kept well, densely shaded by the surrounding big trees such as banyans, camphors, Zelkovas, and Eucalypts. Research and restoration efforts have been made for this historical building since 2004 under the supervision from both the school and the local government. Completed in 2009, the Resi dence was off i ci al l y 中壢 transformed into the Xinjie Zhongli Cultural Pavilion a year later, making it a space to learn of its history, for teacher training, music and theatre practices and performances, plus exhibitions, with school obtaining certification for its feature curriculum. ▓

方政府共同努力下,民國 93 年 (2004)起陸續進行調查研究

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151


歷史建築 Historic buildings

中 聖蹟亭及東伯公 昭和 10 年(1935) 壢區延平路,新街國小旁 中 Yanping Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City

清道光年間中壢各地時有閩粵 械鬥,部分客家人為避亂移往新街 溪西岸,日後發展為新街街區,當 時也有許多讀書人留居此地,因此 文風興起且惜字風俗極盛而興建了 聖蹟亭。 中壢聖蹟亭承傳傳統惜字亭的 三段式立面美學,高一丈三尺,亭 身為磚造三層、外表以洗石子工法 處理,上層六邊形,中層四邊形, 底座八角形,呼應傳統地理觀中「六 氣、四象、八卦」的原理。正面浮 刻「聖蹟」二字,上方的亭簷為中 式飛檐,日治時期經過改建,亭身 結合西洋歷史式樣及中式裝飾圖騰; 東伯公原位於中壢城之東門旁,日 治時期被遷至此地,與聖蹟亭為鄰, 互相增色。 曾「隱身」於新街路橋後的聖 蹟亭,長年默默矗立,守護著中壢。 隨著都市開發、周邊道路拓寬,壓 縮聖蹟亭原有的祭祀空間及腹地, 新街路橋更是直接壓迫聖蹟亭上方 與側面空間的完整性。透過地方人 士與市政府的共同努力,爭取到中 央補助及市政府預算挹注,現今修

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復工程完成,重現了聖蹟亭與東伯 公的歷史面貌。 中壢聖蹟亭及東伯公周邊環境, 不僅是重要客家環境及歷史文化資 源,亦可作為新街國小客家鄉土文 化教育園區,更連結仁海宮宗教信 仰圈,是一處以客家精神為主題之 文化景點,聖蹟亭也成為中壢地區 重要入口意象。▓

Shengji Incinerator and Temple of Eastern Land Deity, Zhongli During the 1820-50s, Minnan-Cantonese armed feuding in Zhongli led some Hakkas moved to west of Xinjie (“New Street”) River. It later became Xinjie area, where many literati lived, with Shengji Incinerator, the signature architecture honoring words and writing built here. The 5.48m high Zhongli’s Shengji Incinerator (incl. the base) follows traditional Incinerator’s designs, with threelayered bricks on a squared base, and decorated with washed granolithic. The top hexagonal-, middle squared-, and bottom octagonal-bases created were based on ancient principles of “Six Natural Factors (wind, heat, fire, humidity, dry heat, chill), Four Symbols (East: Azure Dragon, South: Vermillion Bird, West: White Tiger, and North: Black Turtle), Eight Trigrams (“BaGua”).” The Chinese roofing designs have “Shengji” characters at the top; a Japanese-introduced blend of Western design with Chinese emblems is found on the Incinerator. The site is made more appealing together with the Temple of Eastern Land Deity by the side. The existence of Shengji Incinerator, once “hidden” behind the bridge by Xinjie, was threatened with road expansion that compressed remaining spaces next to it. Collaboration between city government and citizens secured funding from the National 中壢 Zhongli Government, making restoration and re-emergence of history possible. Communities near the Incinerator and the Land Deity Temple offer essential Hakka historical and cultural resources for nearby Xinjie Elementary School. Together with religiosity from a local Taoist temple, the area is turned into a Hakka cultural center, making the Incinerator a symbolic entry point. ▓

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

原中 高中教師宿舍白馬莊 民國 67 年(1978) 桃園市中壢區白馬莊 76 號

No.76, Baimazhuang, Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City

走進國立中央大 學附屬中壢高級中學 (以下簡稱中壢高 中)對面的王子二 街,不久即可見一幢 被藤蔓環繞著的二層 單 棟 建 物, 內 有 11 個單身居室及公共浴 廁,並有植栽茂盛的 空地供休憩用;建物 格 局 為 戰 後 1970 年

從校門口往內望可見其奔騰之姿,

代的現代建築類型,具建築史學術

此青銅馬為日治時期「中壢神社」

研究價值。

遺物,學校就座落於中壢神社原址,

中壢高中創立於日治時期,至

戰後學校曾沿用神社鳥居作為校門,

今以「銅馬」、「黑松」、「老樓」

神社內的社務所也曾做為校史館使

為學校精神象徵,因此白馬僅是傳

用,後全部拆除改建,僅留下青銅

說。青銅馬座落於中壢高中校園內,

馬為記。 原中壢高中教師宿舍白馬莊 見證中壢高中歷史,與中壢教育 發展關係密切,如今宿舍披覆綠 衣,默默等候未來被賦予新的任

White-Horse Villa, Staff Residence for Former Zhongli Senior High School Turn into Wanzi 2nd St., opposite to Zhongli Senior High School, there stands an ivycovered, two-storied building with 11 single rooms and community bathroom plus a bushy yard for rest. This is a 1970s’ building worthy of architectural investigations. Formerly Zhongli Girls’ School for Domestic Science, the senior high school was built on the former Zhongli Shinto shrine’s site during the Japanese ruling with three “spiritual” symbols: bronze horse, dark pines, and old building. From the entrance, one would see the imposing, galloping bronze horse, a relic from the Shinto’s era. After Taiwan’s takeover, the school used the original torii (the gate of the Shinto dichotomizing the profane and the sacred) as the main entrance and the shamusho (the shrine’s administrative office) as the History Gallery. Both were torn down with school’s renovation, leaving only the bronze horse. The White-Horse Villa was closely tied to Zhongli Senior 中壢 High School and bore witness to its transformation. Now the Zhongli green-vested residence awaits new destiny in its service to the teaching staff and local residents. ▓

務,繼續為學校師生及在地居民 寫下充滿活力的下一章。▓

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155


歷史建築 Historic buildings

中 龍岡圓環軍人雕像及文藝活動中心 推測建於民國 43 年後(1954)

Longgang Roundabout with Soldier statue and Recreational Center , Zhongli To the south of Zhongli area, Longgang was home to farmland and tea crops. In 1954 the army set up the now 6th Corp Command and Army Academy, gradually making this into a settlement for the army’s families and immigrants. Ties with the military had the area intimately influenced by it. The Longgang Roundabout was set up post-war; it had a resting pavilion in the middle, but replaced in 1975 with the sculpture of a forward-charging soldier facing west (China). The Recreational Center nearby used to be locals’ cultural and hangout spot. The Longgan Roundabout, the Recreational Center, the 6th Corp Command and Army Academy’s spread out, plus Longgan Track and Field are all featured postings that paint this as a military town. ▓

桃園市中壢區龍東路、龍南路與龍岡路口

Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City

龍岡位於 中壢區南緣位 置,屬於中壢開 發較晚的地區, 原為大片農地、 茶 園。 民 國 43 年軍方將北部 第一軍團部(現 第六軍團)營 區 設 置 於 此, 逐步新建營房

場等建物及空間都是形成此地在特

及軍眷住所,帶來大量的軍眷及外

色與景觀上的重要元素,為桃園市

來人口,成為此地重要的發展契機。

至今具有軍事風貌的區域,其整體

龍岡的生活及商業圈發展都與軍事

軍事設施與眷村風貌亦為居民、眷

文化有密切的關係,也因此使得龍

村生活形態之熟悉樣貌。▓

岡整體區域特色上有著特殊、濃厚

中壢 Zhongli

的軍事色彩。 龍岡圓環為戰後第一軍團駐紮 後設立,圓環上原是一座休憩用的 涼 亭, 於 民 國 64 年(1975) 改 建 成現今的衝鋒戰士雕像,以上刺刀 持槍之姿,鎮守於此。圓環旁軍方 設立之文藝活動中心,曾是此地軍 民重要休閒藝文場所、電影院。 龍岡圓環、文藝活動中心、陸 軍第六軍團廣大的營區與龍岡大操

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157


歷史建築 Historic buildings

中 馬祖新村

Mazhu New Village, Zhongli

民國 46 年(1957) 桃園市中壢區龍慈路與龍岡路三段 281 巷交叉口附近

Near the intersection of Ln. 281, Sec. 3, Longgang Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City

位於中壢龍岡的 馬祖新村,可不是馬 祖新移民聚落,而是 當時安置馬祖外島駐 軍眷屬之眷村,其住 戶軍階等級較高,因 此 又 有「 桃 園 將 軍 村」之美名。 馬祖新村房舍之 材質、型式、空間規 模等,均優於龍岡其

The “New Village” was not a settlement for new immigrants, but for families of military personnel with higher rankings fighting in the outer islands, hence also nicknamed “The Generals’ Village in Taoyuan.” The Mazhu New Village outshines its Longgang counterparts in design, materials and layout; such culture of high-ranking military officials became more pronounced with troops moving in after the withdrawal from Mazhu. The Planning Committee for Military Villages generally regulated housing standards; this village was unique due to the Chief Commander’s decision in adopting a U.S. architectural blueprint. There is a preschool, the Association of Mainlander Chinese and an office for National Women’s League of the ROC. With an octagonal pavilion in a roundabout as the center, 60 houses on rectangular layout of streets, coupled with lovely yards, spacious avenues and shady trees, it makes for an enchanting place. This is a Village-turned-quasi-museum, where traditions are kept, reinvigorated and promoted. As the Mazhu New Village Creative Cultural Base, events such as cultural festivals, film screening of classic Taiwanese movies at the Recreation Center, along with exhibits from movie-making memorabilia helps bring history closer to its people. ▓

他眷村,其後又因整批部隊由馬祖

馬祖新村眷村文創基地,除了透過

撤退遷駐於此,更突顯馬祖新村的

電影節、眷村文化節等活動舉辦,

軍官文化。早期眷村房舍多由「軍

更保留馬祖新村活動中心當時的大

眷住宅籌建委員會建造」,而馬祖

禮堂作為電影放映空間,成為「桃

新村乃由馬祖防衛指揮部自行規劃

中壢

園光影電影館」,放映經典國片,

Zhongli

設計,以美式社區為設計藍圖。社

舉辦電影文物展,讓眷村空間更為

區內設有幼稚園、自治會及婦聯會

活潑、貼近民眾生活。▓

辦公室,以中央圓環的八角亭為中 心,60 戶房舍呈棋盤式排列,道路 寬敞,眷舍前後都有庭院,花木扶 疏,空間舒闊怡人。 相較於桃園其他的眷村,馬祖 新村是以「類博物館」的方式重新 起步,從眷村文化的保存、活化及 文創影視推廣等多角度出發,成立

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159


靈埤客庄

龍潭區 Longtan

龍潭翁新統大屋 ( 正廳、右第一護龍 ) Abode of Wen-xin-ton (main room and the first right side room), Longtan 113

行政 分為 30 里 面積 75.23 平方公里 人口 120,009 人 (2016. 11 統計)

龍潭烏樹村翁宅祖堂六桂傳香 龍潭烏樹林翁宅祖堂六桂傳香 龍潭聖蹟亭 Shengji Incinerator, Longtan

3 113

桃 20

113 乙

龍潭區

Longtan

區:北為龍潭陂,東南為三坑子區,南為銅鑼圈。三坑子鄰大漢溪,有地利 之便,為水路集貨中心,開發最早;其次為龍潭陂,銅鑼圈最晚開發。

(漢名蕭那英)所開墾的菱潭陂,為龍潭開發史上首度有計畫的開墾,據說 早年此埤水面蔓生野菱,故稱「菱潭陂」,後來逢乾旱,農民祈雨於此非常 靈驗,改名為「靈潭陂」,因臺語「靈」、「龍」同音,又有「農民見黃龍 由潭底石穴冒出」的傳聞,再改稱為「龍潭陂」,「龍潭」之名便沿用至今。 乾隆 37、47 年(1772、1782),淡水來的墾戶黃慶興兩度在龍潭陂大 規模招佃開墾,嘉慶年間,黃與墾民合力以大潭之水闢建龍潭圳,潭水流經 烏樹林、黃泥塘、八張犁一帶,奠定龍潭農業開墾的基礎。 龍潭最早開發的三坑地區留下了「三坑老街」,街底的永福宮建於乾隆 9 年(1744);烏樹林則有嘉慶年間起建的翁宅祖堂六桂傳香、日治時期建 成的翁新統大屋;銅鑼圈三和里有光緒年間的江夏科文祖堂,均為先民墾拓 史的見證。 此外,龍潭多客家人,客家人重視文風,聚居之處多有聖蹟亭。龍潭就 有全國最大、規劃最完整的聖蹟亭;日治時期的建設也留下部分遺跡,如仕 紳發起興建的大平橋、武德殿與龍潭國小日式宿舍,臺灣文學巨擘鍾肇政就 是在此宿舍中,完成了許多膾炙人口的名著。走訪一趟龍潭文化資產,就能 感受這裡文風的傳承、地方的深耕。▓ Longtan is at a high terrain in the southernmost part of the Taoyuan Plateau, with earliest development centered on Longtanpi to the north, Tongluoquan to the south, and Sankengzi to the southeast. Sankengzi was developed earliest thanks to its strategic location by the Dahan River, which also made it into a trading and

160

3

113

《淡水廳志》記載:「靈潭陂。在桃澗堡,距廳北 50 里。乾隆 13 年 傳昔旱,莊佃禱雨於此即應,故名。」同年由凱達格蘭族霄裡社通事知母六

往大溪

Martial Arts Dojo, Longtan

Japanese-style Residence for Lungtan Elementary School

(1748),霄裡通事知母六招佃所置。其水灌溉五小莊,黃泥塘等田甲,相

3

龍潭武德殿

113

龍潭國小日式宿舍

龍潭區位居桃園丘陵臺地最南端,地勢高、地形複雜,開墾初期分為三

Weng Family Liu-gui-chuan-xiang Ancestral Shrine in Wushulin, Longtan

113 甲

龍潭三和江夏科文祖堂

3

Jiang-xia-ke-wen Ancestral Shrine in Sanhe, Longtan

3

龍潭三坑川盛信記商店 Chuan Sheng Xin Ji Store in Sankeng, Longtan

往新竹

大平橋

桃 65

Daping Bridge

transportation hub. This is an area that saw Longtan's first planned reclamation effort under the direction of Ketagalan's administrative liaison. Official records in Northern District’s Gazetteer showed that Longtan's naming underwent 3 changes: Lintangpi was first used in 1748, with "Lin" referring to water caltrop. When a prayer ceremony successfully brought on the rain, name was changed again as gratitude to the deity answering their plea. Lastly, when an elderly farmer miraculously "witnessed" a yellow dragon appeared from the lake, it was renamed one last time to "Longtan" (lit. “Dragon Lake.”) Tamsui's Huang contributed greatly to Longtan's farming culture. He recruited farmers in 1772 and 1782, and in late 1790s worked with other settlers to build Longtan Irrigation, providing crucial water sources for the area's farmlands. 龍潭 Traces of the earliest settlement can still be seen from Sankeng Old Street, with Longtan the 1744-built Yongfu Temple on it. Other heritage sites from early Mainlanders' settlement in Taiwan include Weng Family Liu-gui-chuan-xiang Ancestral Shrine in Wushulin, Jiang-xia-ke-wen Ancestral Shrine in Sanhe, and Abode of Weng-xin-tong in Longtan. Longtan is populated with Hakkas, a cultural group who greatly value literacy; this is also home to the largest well-planned Shengji Incinerator. Signs of Japanese colonial architecture are also found: the gentry-promoted Daping Bridge, Butokuden Martial Arts Dojo and the Japanese-style Residence for Longtan Elementary School, once home to the celebrated Taiwanese author, Mr. Chung Chao-Cheng, where he produced his best-known novels. A visit to Longtan easily allows one to experience time-tested culture and history. ▓ 3

161


古蹟 Monument

龍潭聖蹟亭

Shengji Incinerator, Longtan

光緒元年(1875) 桃園市龍潭區聖亭路

Shengting Rd., Longtan Dist., Taoyuan City

耕讀傳家的 客家人對文字十 分 敬 惜, 在 客 家 地區常可見到 「 聖 蹟 亭 」。 聖蹟亭又稱惜字 亭、 敬 字 亭, 看 似 金 爐, 卻 是 用 來 焚 燒 字 紙, 以 崇敬倉頡與文昌帝君。全臺現存的

外側石柱與中央爐口邊各有敬字對

惜字亭,屬龍潭聖蹟亭面積最廣,

聯,爐口上方橫刻「過化存神」與

格局保存最完整。

「文運宏開」字樣。上層原有二龍

龍潭聖蹟亭採中軸對稱格局,

環抱「聖蹟」兩字,但已風化,兩

具三進庭園。第一進視野遼闊,往

旁也有對聯,背面中央兩片石板,

裡望可見 4 個門柱尖、兩個筆柱尖

其上鐫刻捐款名錄,其下則雕刻兩

和一個亭頂葫蘆尖。第二進有優美

儀太極八卦。整體而言,龍潭聖蹟

的雲牆,兩旁聳立石筆,增加視覺

亭結構全中有局,局中有全,是中

上的穩定與崇高感,格局更開闊。

國建築的精緻傑作。▓

第三進為主體,首先是置放香爐與 祭品的祭檯和供檯,再來是方型 底座,上有方壇,聖蹟亭安坐方壇 上。 聖蹟亭的爐體由下而上,分別 象徵八卦、四象、六氣。下層中央 有代表文風的浮雕「麟吐玉書」, 兩側也有仁獸浮雕。中層為爐體,

162

Shengji Incinerators are common in Hakka regions thanks to the knowledge-respecting tradition. Also named WordTreasuring Pavilion, the furnace-like Incinerator is only used to burn written papers to worship Canjie, the inventor of Chinese Characters, and Wenchang Dijin, God of Culture and Literature. This is not only the best kept but also the largest and structurally most complete of all its counterparts in Taiwan. Placed inside a three-courtyard house, Longtan Shengji Incinerator is an axially symmetric architecture. From the entrance, you’d spot the four gate pillars, the two stone pillars, and the gourd-shaped tip from the Incinerator. When entering the second courtyard, one sees the two erected stone pens, each with curved stone walls (resembling the dragons) opening up; this is meant to augment feelings of loftiness and stateliness. Finally, the centerpiece in the inner courtyard: the grand, trilayered structure of the Shengji Incinerator. There is a shrine with oblation incense and worship items (middle), with two square-shaped base (bottom) and altar (top). From bottom up, the Incinerator’s octagonal, squared, and hexagonal layers signal the Eight Trigrams (“Ba-Gua”), the Four Symbols (East: Azure Dragon, South: Vermillion Bird, West: White Tiger, and North: Black Turtle), and the Six Natural Factors (wind, heat, fire, humidity, dry heat, chill). At the bottom of the Incinerator reads “Qilin utters a jade book,” referencing Confucius’ birth, whereas the two horizontal inscriptions bless us with “Virtues transcends generations” and “May writing and knowledge flourish.” While the stone dragons embracing 龍潭 Longtan the words “Shengji” are no longer visible, the carved couplets are legible. At the back, donor listings were carved on top, with Tai Chi and Eight Trigrams at the bottom. A masterpiece in Chinese architecture, its finesse is embodied within the minutiae and the grand. ▓

163


古蹟 Monument

龍潭翁新統大屋 ( 正廳、右第一護龍 ) 明治 38 年(1905) 桃園市龍潭區烏林 3 號

No.3, Wulin, Longtan Dist., Taoyuan City

日治時期桃園興建的四合院極

傳》。

少,翁新統大屋是其中的傑作,為

翁宅獨立於田野間,四周竹林

烏樹林地區客家移民的重要史跡,

環護,具隱密性與防禦性。宅第形

更是北臺灣古蹟中建築工藝的佼佼

制為二進左右雙護龍四合院,屋前

者。

禾埕寬闊,屋頂燕尾翹起的脊線如 翁家在翁元乾這一代來到龍潭

大鵬展翅。

烏樹林,建了祖堂六桂傳香後,傳

大屋在建築裝飾方面的藝術水

到翁必水時,由於墾地遼闊,人丁

準極高。正堂步口棟架,裝飾繁複

浩繁,進而規畫、興建「夥房」,

精緻,木雕、石雕、磚雕、彩繪、

由其長子翁新統主持開工,光緒 20

剪黏、堆花泥塑及交趾陶,表現形

年(1894) 大 屋 建 成。 翁 新 統 掌

式多元;屋內的格扇門以螭龍透雕,

理族內六大房帳務,廣置田佃,富

還有老鷹造型的雀替等,十分精采,

甲一鄉;同時他精通漢學,熱心公

極具保存研究的價值。

務,曾任龍潭庄庄長八年。大正 4

這幢百年大宅的原貌大致保留,

年(1915),翁新統接受臺灣總督

不過因繼承老宅的翁家子孫人數甚

府綬佩紳章,隔年列入《臺灣列紳

多,而古蹟經歷歲月摧殘,已十分 脆 弱, 維 修 養 護 仍 須 由所有權人達成共識。 目前大屋僅正廳與右 第一護龍劃定為古蹟, 正 廳 現 以 鷹 架 支 撐、 鋼 棚 保 護; 期 早 日 執 行 修 復 工 程, 才 能 重 現昔日榮光。▓

164

Abode of Weng Xin-tong (main room and the first right side room), Longtan Abode of Weng-xin-tong is not only the best Siheyuan-styled architecture in the Japanese era, it is an excellent example of historic buildings that evidences Hakka immigrants' presence in the area. Weng-xin-tong's grandfather came to Longtan and built the family's Ancestral Shrine. With vast land and plenty of offspring, Weng's father planned for, and had Weng, his eldest, lead construction of Fo^Fongˇ(multifamily courtyard house), which was completed in 1894. Weng later oversaw six clans' finances, purchased farmlands and became rich. An expert in Sinology, he also served as the area's leader for eight years. In 1915, he was granted the Gentry status from the Taiwan GovernorGeneral, and was listed in the "Taiwan Gentry's Listings" (a Japanese-authored book of 1,020 famous Taiwanese gentry) in 1916. The Abode is well protected between the vast fields and thorny bamboos. As Siheyuan-styled building, it is doublesided with winged-rooms, has a wide front yard and features a swallow-tailed rooftop. One finds elaborate decorations in the Abode: where the roof beam and poles meet, there are brick and stone carving, Koji ceramics, mud sculptures and paintings. Translucent dragons with eagles can be appreciated on the supporting structure for the lattice door. Such artistic brilliance rightly 龍潭 Longtan makes for an exquisite memorabilia. While most of the original facade is kept, indecisions among many in the family who partake its inheritance, plus damages overtime, presently only the main hall and right winged-room are designated as Monument. To render its glory, timely reparation is critical. ▓

165


歷史建築 Historic buildings

龍潭烏樹林翁宅祖堂六桂傳香 嘉慶八年(1803) 桃園市龍潭區烏樹林里 12 鄰 24 號

No.24, Wulin, Longtan Dist., Taoyuan City

翁宅祖堂六 桂 傳 香, 是 翁 家 在龍潭烏樹林落 腳、 發 跡 後 所 建 之 祖 堂, 經 後 世 子 孫 三 度 重 修, 目前正身保留完 整, 裝 飾 豐 富 細 緻, 為 客 家 人 在 烏樹林墾殖的重 要史蹟之一。 翁家開基祖於雍正末至乾隆初 年(1730 年代)由潮州普寧來臺, 先在三芝開墾,到第三代在道光年 間遷入龍潭,最後落腳烏樹林。嘉 慶八年,翁元乾開墾有成,為祭祀 祖先而購入田產興建祖厝。 翁 宅 祖 堂 獨 立 於 田 野, 前 有 大 埕, 後 有 莿 竹 林。 為 單院落四護式傳統客家民居, 正廳前有單開間步口、燕尾 式屋脊,採用承重牆構造硬 山擱檁 ,屋架以柱樑、疊斗 式構成,立面則是斗子砌磚 牆。 簷 廊 與 出 簷 上 有 垂 樑、

也有交趾陶、泥塑、格窗、鑿花、 彩畫等配飾,生動典雅,古意精緻。 正廳門上匾額書有「六桂傳香」 四字。神龕上方牌樓面匾額「鰲首 傳芳」期勉翁氏子孫能夠效法先祖, 努力精進、獨占鰲頭,成為後世典 範。▓

Weng Family Liu-gui-chuan-xiang Ancestral Shrine in Wushulin, Longtan The Ancestral Shrine has been built by the Weng family in Wushulin, after reaching early prominence in Longtan. Several renovations from the offspring have given the Shrine a sublimely well-kept look, making it one of Hakka’s historic relics in the area. The Weng family originated from Chaozhou in China, with earliest settlers moving around the northern areas of Taiwan in the 1730-40s. Around 1820-50s, the Wengs came in Longtan, settled and succeeded here, thus purchased lands to build the Ancestral Shrine. A lone, upright structure in the fields, the outer yard spreads wide, with thorny bamboos surrounding its back. This is a Shrine with various traditional Hakka designs: a doublesided single courtyard with four wing rooms, the swallow-tailed roof ridges, and a flexible but laying-beam structure adding to the load-bearing wall made of hollowed bricks (filled with brick rubble). The Shrine is gracefully adorned with Koji ceramics, clay art, sash window, wood carving, and paintings, rendering rich Chinese classical aura. Inscription of “Liug u i - c h u a n - x i a n g ( l i t . 龍潭 ‘Spread of Six Osmanthus Longtan Scents’)” above the entrance, and “Get Ahead with Fragrance Share” above the facade are earnest appeals to the offspring to work hard and be a role model. ▓

雀 替、 瓜 筒 等 木 裝 飾, 屋 面

166

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

大平橋

Daping Bridge

大正 12 年(1923) 桃園市龍潭區大平里打鐵坑溪

Daping, Longtan Dist., Taoyuan City

大平橋是臺 灣少數尚存的紅磚 橋之一、往昔大平 村與三坑子的聯絡 孔道,具有重要的 歷史文化價值,當 地人稱「紅橋」。 大平與三坑子 一溪之隔,清代三 坑子為大漢溪畔的 貨物轉運站,十分繁榮,而打鐵坑

面特意做成船艏狀以利破水。大平

溪對岸的大平,只能涉溪進出,辛

橋目前保持完好,紅橋周邊更興建

苦又危險,直到日治時期,桃園大

了親水公園,成為三坑、大平、石

圳修建(1916~1924),大批日本工

門地區自行車族休息站,一方面欣

程人員進駐三坑子,兩村士紳趁勢

賞潺潺流水,田野景觀,另一方面

倡議建橋,在庄役場(區公所)補

體驗大平紅橋的歷史意涵。▓

Nicknamed “Red Bridge,” Daping Bridge’s historical importance lies in it being one of Taiwan’s rare red-bricked bridges still intact, plus the main channel between Daping and Sankeng Villages in the old days. Sankeng was a bustling trading hub by Dahan River, yet challenging for Daping villagers from across to access. When the Japanese came into the area to build the Taoyuan Irrigation (1916-1924), local gentry raised funds to build the bridge. A subsidy from the district office allowed the Japanese engineers to use the same bricks for both constructions. Next to the bridge, a granite stele detailing the bridge’s founding records stands, reminding us the power of communal efforts. Upon closer look, the well-kept bridge features five semicircular arches and pointed breakwaters. A Water Park built nearby is a rest stop for the cyclists riding through Sankeng, Daping, Shimen area, a spot for an appreciation of the clear stream flow, field view, and the Red Bridge’s history. ▓

助下,配合仕紳、鄉民捐款,由負 責桃園大圳工程的大倉組 興建,當時橋身所用清水

龍潭 Longtan

磚與桃園大圳相同。橋邊 有一座建橋石碑,其中詳 列 當 時 村 民 捐 資 1 元、2 元等,說明此橋集眾人之 力建成,相當可貴。 橋身 5 個橋拱,仔細 觀察,可以發現橋墩迎水

168

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

龍潭三和江夏科文祖堂

Jiang-xia-ke-wen Ancestral Shrine in Sanhe, Longtan

光緒 13 年(1887) 園市龍潭區泥橋子 11 號 桃 No.11, Niqiaozi, Longtan Dist., Taoyuan City

江夏科文祖堂是 一堂四橫式的客家傳 統三合院,外觀質樸 內斂,連屋頂的剪黏 都相當節制;建物之 紅磚與石作考究細緻 為其特色。 乾隆四十一年 (1777 年 ), 黃 家 開臺祖來到龍潭開 墾,以種茶為業,逐 漸累積成為龍潭一帶首富,傳到第 四代遷至泥橋子,著手興建黃氏祖 堂,至第五代接手完成。 江夏堂為傳統客家夥房,一堂 四橫式的格局,基本上正屋為三開 間,正屋與左右橫屋交接處,多了 角隅間,處理成窗孔,稱為「五見 光」,為客家民居典型格局;屋身 構造為硬山擱檁,立面是土埆牆與 斗砌磚。現居於此的黃氏後代說, 老宅的樑柱、基石和紅磚幾乎都還 是原物,木樑木柱與二千多片花崗 岩牆基當年都從福建運來,建造祖

已經 130 餘年的黃宅,多次維 修改建,石雕竹節窗仍在,正廳牆 面的紅磚雕有如意紋,典雅精緻, 是來到老屋必看的重點。▓

This Ancestral Shrine is a traditional Hakka Sanheyuan (three-section compound). Like Hakka people, plain and poised, the Shrine’s external facade bears no extravagant decoration or overwhelming rooftop collage arts. It also features fine red bricks and stonework. I n 1 7 7 7 , t h e f a m i l y ’s pioneering ancestor came to Taiwan, did well in Longtan with tea business and became the area’s first rich folk. The lineage’s 4th generation moved to its current location, and built the Ancestral Shrine that was completed in the 5th generation. This is a traditional Hakka Fo^ Fongˇ (multi-family courtyard house), with one main hall and four row houses’ layout, a three-bay in the front spacing, plus a corner window turned into aperture. This is a laying-beam structure with sundried and flat planks with stuffed bricks. The current resident pointed out the Shrine’s beams, stone foundations and red bricks are mostly original. Both woodwork and over 2000 pieces of marble granite supplied directly from China’s Fujian Province, and leadership from Tangshan’s famous craft masters made the Shrine possible. The exquisitely unique swallow-tailed red 龍潭 bricks were produced, under strict quality control, in a kiln from Longtan the Jiangs, the area’s well-known family business. After several renovations, the more-than-130-year-old Shrine still carries the stone-carved bamboo-shaped windows; together the red bricks with blessing carvings on the external wall make for exquisitely graceful features of the Shrine. ▓

堂的師傅也特地從唐山禮聘而至, 至於極有特色的燕尾紅磚則委託龍 潭大北坑三水村江家燒製而成。

170

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

龍潭三坑川盛信記商店

Chuan Sheng Xin Ji Store in Sankeng, Longtan

乾隆至咸豐年間(1711 ~ 1861) 桃園市龍潭區三坑子 80 號

No.80, Sankengzi, Longtan Dist., Taoyuan City

「三坑 老街」屬清代 傳統步廊式街 屋,雖短短百 米,卻是北臺 灣較早、保留 較完整的傳統 客家聚落。 街屋本體 的牆身材料為 「土埆」,屋 身構架為「硬 山擱檁」:屋

失、日漸蕭瑟,獨留老街見證昔日

頂木構架上的桁檁直接擱在山牆上,

盛況。

乃街屋常見的一種構架方式;步廊 間的石雕柱礎呈現樸實的風格。 三坑子位處大漢溪河階地,清

的櫻花啤酒(サクラビール)字樣。

代大漢溪航運發達,當時關西、楊

老街入口前有一湧泉池,人稱

梅等內陸聚落與萬華、淡水等港埠

「黑白洗」,行經此地,不妨掬一

間的貨物轉運即是靠「三坑子」,

把清水「黑白

市況繁榮,也是龍潭最早的聚落,

洗」一番,再

人稱「龍潭第一街」。到了日治時

漫步入街,細

期修築桃園大圳,大批日籍工程人

品百年老街

員進駐,老街更為熱鬧。但大圳完

風貌。▓

工後,大漢溪水位驟降、淤淺,加 以陸運興起,三坑子轉運功能漸

172

街上的「川盛信記商店」,老 屋店住兩用,老招牌上還寫著日文

Sankeng Old Street, though a row of Qing Dynasty’s traditional corridor townhouses, it makes for Taiwan’s earliest and better kept examples of traditional Hakka settlement. The townhouses are traditionally Hakka. The walls are made of unburnt, sun-dried soil bricks, with a whole log used as the beam and placed on the gable wall, common in townhouses; simplicity is also shown on stone-carved pillars. Located at the Dahan River terrace, Sankeng was the hub for several inland villages during Qing Dynasty. Nicknamed “Premier Street of Longtan,” it is the first town in Longtan. It saw even more prosperity when groups of Japanese engineers crowded in during Taoyuan Irrigation’s construction. The finished Irrigation, however, caused the localized shallowing 龍潭 of the water; along with the increasing reliance on land Longtan transportation, Sankeng’s importance and affluence gradually declined. Both a grocery store and a private home, Chuan Sheng Xin Ji Store still carries an old signboard with “Cherry Beer ( サク ラビール )” written in Japanese. An underground spring water source wittily named “However Cleaned” is found before you enter the Sankeng Old Street; why not splash your face before walking into history? ▓

173


歷史建築 Historic buildings

龍潭國小日式宿舍

Japanese-style Residence for Longtan Elementary School

日治昭和(1930 ~ 1940 年代) 桃園市龍潭區南龍路 3、5、7、9、11、15 及 17 號

No.3.5.7.9.11.15.17, Nanlong Rd., Longtan Dist., Taoyuan City

《魯冰花》是臺灣知名作家鍾

民 國 39 年(1946) 鍾 肇 政 任

肇政的成名作,當年他振筆疾書之

教於龍潭國小,1956 年起,鍾肇政

地正是龍潭國小 11 號日式宿舍。

一家安居於此。11 年間,鍾肇政在

龍潭熱鬧的龍元路上有一排日 式老屋,在地人都知道那是龍潭國

宿舍裡的一方小桌寫成《魯冰花》 和《濁流三部曲》。

小的教師宿舍。龍潭國小前身為明

時間流轉,老師們搬遷他去,

治 41 年(1908) 設 立 的 龍 潭 陂 公

因房舍逐漸頹圮倒傾而預定拆除,

學 校, 宿 舍 興 建 時 間 從 大 正 8 年

經各界努力,龍潭國小日式宿舍於

(1919) 至 昭 和 13 年(1938)。

2012 年登錄歷史建築,並結合龍潭

龍潭國小現存有 1933 年建的一棟二

武德殿及周邊空間整體規劃為「鍾

戶 15、17 號宿舍及 1938 年左右建

肇政文學生活園區」,未來將以文

的三棟 5 戶 3 到 11 號宿舍,外觀雖

學串連龍潭地景,結合藝文展覽活

以日本軸組式木造建築為主,但因

動、講座等,賦予場域空間嶄新的

興建年代不同,空間配置及細節則

活力。▓

The Dull Ice Flower, written at Residence House No.11 here, is Mr. Chung Chao-Cheng’s first acclaimed work. It is known to the locals that the Japanese-style Residence along the bustling Longyuan Rd. hosted the teachers of the Longtan Elementary School. The houses were established between 1919 and 1938, after the school founded in 1908. The remaining Houses No. 15 and 17 and Houses No. 3 to 11, built in 1933 and 1938 respectively, carry lateral enforcement on wooden structure, though slightly different in layouts. Mr. Chung had taught in the elementary school since 1946 and moved in the Residence with his family in 1956. In the next 11 years, he wrote The Dull Ice Flower and The Trilogy of Turbidity. Over time the teachers moved out, townhouses became dilapidated, and the school board planned the Residence’s teardown. Numerous proposals and much effort later, it was eventually registered as Historic Building. Now Chung ChaoCheng’s Literary Space, a research studio dedicated to Mr. Chung’s literary work and life, is set on site, aiming to integrate history and literature through lectures and tours. ▓

略有差異。

龍潭 Longtan

174 174

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歷史建築 Historic buildings

龍潭武德殿

Martial Arts Dojo, Longtan

昭和 5 年(1930) 桃園市龍潭區中正路 196 號

No.196, Zhongzheng Rd., Longtan Dist., Taoyuan City

武德殿是日治 時期的歷史見證, 當時臺灣興建武德 殿 超 過 70 座, 光 復後多已不存,桃 園地區僅剩大溪與 龍潭兩處。 明

治 28 年

(1895)大日本武 德會在京都成立, 當時為彰顯武術、 武道及武德而興建 武德殿,將劍術、 柔術、弓術等道場融合在一建築,

強武道進行中聲音共鳴、彰顯武者

更設有神龕祭祀武神。日本治臺,

氣勢。未來武德殿結合鄰近龍潭國

武德會也隨警察系統進入臺灣,並

小日式宿舍群,成為「鍾肇政文學

於各級行政區建立武德殿,訓練日

生活園區」,提供民眾多元的文化

本軍警武藝,亦進一步推廣武道,

休閒空間。▓

當時許多中學都把武道納入課程。 龍潭武德殿是日本社殿式樣建 築, 採 取「 仿 柱 樑 式 框 架 牆 身 立 面」,整體為和洋混合風格,格局 方整,屋頂為日式「入母屋造」。 因武道活動的功能及社殿建築的特

During the Japanese ruling, more than 70 martial arts dojos were in use. After the Taiwan’s takeover, only two remained in Daxi and Longtan around the Taoyuan area, bearing witness to the history. The Butokuden Martial Arts Dojo was established under the authority of Japan Martial Virtue Society (JMVS) in 1895, to preserve and propagate the legacy of martial arts, disciplines and its moral values. The Dojo includes kendojos, judo halls and kyudo dojos, with a shrine set to worship the Lord of Martial Arts. With Japanese colonization, Butokuden Martial Arts Dojo was systematically introduced with the police and military combat skill training, established at various levels of administration, and incorporated into the secondary education. This Dojo is a replica of the Japanese Shinto architecture with western elements: a square layout, an irimoya (hip-andgable roof) and a bargeboard decorated with gegyo externally with an internal wood-framed structure covered by the ceiling. 龍潭 With its functions and architectural features, one finds a stilted Longtan base as Dojo’s unique design, which includes springs and sound expansion jar set to enhance resonance and show forth a warrior’s stance. Together with nearby Japanese-style Residence for Longtan Elementary School, the Dojo makes part of Chung Chao-Cheng’s Literary Space, a research studio for Mr. Chung Chao-Cheng that serves as a cultural and recreational space for the citizens. ▓

色,基座抬高是武德殿建築特有的 設計,基礎設置彈簧與擴音甕,加

176

177


濱海蓮鄉

觀音區 Guanyin

行政 分為 24 里 面積 87.98 平方公里 人口 65,524 人 (2016. 11 統計)

臺灣海峽 Taiwan Strait

61

觀音白沙岬燈塔 Baisha Cape Lighthouse, Guanyin 115

66

觀音舊名石觀音,區名由來相傳是咸豐 10 年(1860)當地農民黃等成 路經觀音溪,於溪中拾獲一塊形如觀音像的石頭,便搭建草庵供奉瞻拜,眾 人稱為「觀音寺」,奉祀虔誠。後來信眾發現寺旁泉水可治百病,且神蹟不

15

112

觀音區

Guanyin

斷,於是將寺廟改稱甘泉寺,湧泉稱為觀音泉,泉水至今不絕,許多信眾專 程前來祈求,經觀音佛祖執筊得聖筊後,才能汲取泉水。 觀音客家人居多,昔有魚米之鄉美譽,如今多種植高經濟作物,並規劃 休閒農業,每年夏季舉辦的蓮花季,為當地重要活動,吸引民眾前往賞蓮。 位於觀音至新屋一帶海岸綿延 27 公里的「觀新藻礁」,曾為全臺面積最大 藻礁,目前已公告為野生動物保護區。 區域內保有之文化資產為「觀音白沙岬燈塔」,於日治時期所建立,由 日人設計,採用臺灣建材,具歐式外型,內有法製燈具映照,為航行臺灣海 峽重要之導航設施,亦為桃園著名觀光景點。▓ 觀音 Formerly named The Stone Guanyin, the area’s name originated as early as 1860, when by chance a farmer found a stone shaped like Guanyin Bodhisattva (“Goddess of Mercy”) and built a hut to worship, later named Guanyin Temple. Devotees later found out the water source next to the temple has a cure-all effect. More miracles happened since, thus re-named it as the Ganquan (lit. “Sweet Springs”) Teample. The water source was also re-named Guanyin Spring and attracted many worshippers who must obtain Guanyin’s approval before retrieving the Spring Water.

178

A Hakka concentrated area, it was formerly known as “The land of rice and Guanyin fish.” Now it is an area with high-yield produce, agricultural tourism, and home to a popular, summer lotus festival. The “Guanyin-Xinwu Algal-Reef” extending 27 km along the coast was Taiwan’s largest; it now lists as Wildlife Protected Area. Nearby, the Baisha Cape Lighthouse built during the Japanese era is found, a unique blend of Japanese design, Taiwanese assembly, European mold with French lighting, a key navigation infrastructure in the Taiwan Strait, and a famous sight in Taoyuan area. ▓

179


古蹟 Monument

觀音白沙岬燈塔

Baisha Cape Lighthouse, Guanyin

明治 34 年(1901) 桃園市觀音區新坡下 16 號

The 1898-built Baisha Cape Lighthouse is the third built during the Japanese era and sits at the Guanyin Shore. Its uniqueness lies in the first-time application of bricks and stones. The Lighthouse has a base, body, and a roofing area. Its cylindrical body has a double-brick stacking outer layer, with hollowed center carrying swirling staircases and rooms. The wide base narrows as it ascends, reaching to a terrace with calfshaped brackets and railing supports on the fourth floor. The domed roof on the fifth floor is where the light is. The French BARBIER & BENARD’s kerosene burner used for the 1901 light-up was the latest and the best at the time; the copper sign that reads “Babbier & Benard Constructeurs, Paris, 1897” is still kept. The Japanese-design, Taiwanese-built lighthouse with a European facade makes it outstanding among Taiwan’s 38 lighthouses. This is a city-designated Monument, and one of the best kept Lighthouses from the Japanese era. ▓

No.16, Xinpoxia, Guanyin Dist., Taoyuan City

日治初期臺灣建造 的第三座燈塔,為明治 34 年(1901) 建 於 觀 音海岸的白沙岬燈塔, 它與前兩座燈塔最大的 不同,就是首次使用磚 與石材建造燈塔。 白沙岬燈塔立面由 塔基、塔身與塔頂三部 分 組 成。 塔 身 為 圓 柱 體、煉瓦造(磚造), 外部由磚砌成厚牆,中 央鏤空部分設置樓梯及 房間;塔身底部較寬, 由下而上漸漸收分,至 第四層時樓板懸出作為 陽臺,下方以牛腿形出挑支撐,周

具歐式外型的燈塔為臺灣 38 座燈塔

圍設鐵欄杆,第五層為頂層,為旋

中相當獨特的一座,除了為桃園市

轉燈具所在,塔頂為穹窿圓頂。明

定 古 蹟,

治 34 年(1901) 點 燈 時 啟 用 的 法

也是目前

國 製 Babbier &Benard 三 等 迴 轉 透

保存最完

鏡三重蕊煤油燈,為當時最新最好

整的日治

的 燈 器, 目 前 仍 完 整 保 存 Babbier

初期燈塔

&Benard Constructeurs, Paris, 1897

之一。▓

觀音 Guanyin

之銅牌。 這座日人設計、臺式建材築成、

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181


客家米鄉 新屋區 Xinwu

行政 分為 23 里 面積 85.02 平方公里 人口 48,744 人 (2016. 11 統計)

66

新屋區

新屋的開發與范姜氏有極大的關係。 「范姜」是少數在臺灣產生的複姓,源自桃園新屋,在臺灣乃至於海外 各地,凡姓范姜的,均出新屋范姜家。

新屋范姜祖堂

Xinwu

Fan-Jiang Ancestral Hall, Xinwu

清初廣東惠州婦人雷氏,因丈夫范集景早逝,無力撫養二位孤子,因此 再嫁姜氏,其中一子文質,長大後感念繼父養育之恩,將五子均冠上複姓「范 姜」。 乾隆元年(1736),范姜兄弟前往新屋一帶開墾有成,興建大厝,為范

114

新屋農會倉庫

Warehouse of Xinwu Farmer's Association 115

姜氏祖厝,因頗具規模,當地人以客語稱其地「起新屋」,而後成為地名「新 屋」。 范姜祖堂為新屋著名古蹟,具有濃厚客家民居特色,因族內規定「不分

31

火」,每年春秋都舉辦家族聚會與祭祀活動,熱鬧非凡。 新屋區臨海,提供發展休閒漁業觀光事業的良好條件,永安漁港附近就 有新鮮的魚貨和海鮮餐廳;除了漁港之外,新屋擁有 6000 公頃耕地,農田 水利灌溉取自水圳,無虞匱乏,且發展出當地特有的桃園 3 號良質新香米, 稻米產量常居全國之冠,從日治時代即存的農會倉庫裡 3 層樓高的碾米機, 即可知富庶米倉其來有自,是名副其實的魚米之鄉。▓ Xinwu’s development is closely tied with the “Fan-Jiang” Family. “Fan-Jiang” is a unique Taiwanese compound surname from the Xinwu region. People worldwide who carried this surname have their origin here. The name “Fan-Jiang” first appeared in Guangdong, China, where a married woman with a husband surnamed Fan died young and could not provide for two sons, thus re-married to husband Jiang. To honor the stepfather’s devotion, one of the sons gave the surname to his five children. In 1736, the Fan-Jiang brothers settled in Xinwu and built a sizeable ancestral hall; local Hakkas termed it “raising the new house” and Xinwu (“new houses”) became known. The Fan-Jiang Ancestral Hall in Xinwu is a well-known historic monument of

182

Hakka-styled residence in the area; large festivals in each spring and Fall celebrate familial concept of “One (ancestor) for all (tribesmen). The coastal geography offers abundance in recreational fishery, tourism and businesses for Xinwu and restaurants near Yongan Fishing Port. With near 6,000 hectares of arable land irrigated from the reservoir, Xinwu is home to the Taoyuan No. 3 New and Improved Aromatic Rice. Its role as a regular champion in rice production is evidenced by a wooden rice mill taking up three floors from the Japanese era. That Xinwu is nicknamed “Land of Fish and Rice” is quite befitting. ▓

新屋 Xinwu

183


古蹟 Monument

新屋范姜祖堂

Fan-Jiang Ancestral Hall, Xinwu

咸豐 4 年(1854)

堂號,「陶」指范氏祖先陶朱公范

央,兩側開放式橫屋則供奉觀世音

蠡,「渭」則是姜氏祖先,也就是

菩 薩 與 伯 公( 土 地 公 ), 此 在 客

A multi-winged Siheyuan (“quadrangle courtyard”), the Fan-Jiang Ancestral Hall used mono-colored materials such as whitewashed walls, gray bricks and black tiles, all Hakka housing features. Large scale housing construction in the area led the locals termed it “raising the new houses,” thus Xinwu (“new house”) was named. The words “Tao” and “Wei” from the inscription “Tao-Wei Renders Immortally” at the front door frame refer to Fan- Jiang’s ancestral clan names with respect to Fan Li and Jiang Ziya, two great political advisors to ancient Chinese emperors. The ancestors are worshipped at the inner courtyard between the front and the rear hall, with the spiritual tablet at the latter’s center, whereas statues of Guanyin Bodhisattva and Land Deity are on both sides of the row house. This is rare in Hakka homes due to an old belief in “Gods for Temples, Ancestors for Homes.” The ancestral shrine continues to serve its purpose, with the family honoring the concept of “One (ancestor) for all (tribesmen)” and hold large celebrations each Spring and Fall.” The popular Shrine features 200-year-old housewares brought from China, and uniquely varied architectural designs such as row houses. It is

在渭水之濱釣魚的姜太公。

家宗祠中相當罕見。目前祠堂仍保

open on weekdays to the public. ▓

桃園市新屋區中正路 110 巷 9 號

No.9, Ln. 110, Zhongzheng Rd., Xinwu Dist., Taoyuan City

市定古蹟范姜祖堂是座四 合 院, 白 牆、 灰 磚、 黑 瓦、 卵石砌牆基、多護龍,裝飾樸 實, 充 分 展 現 客 家 民 居 的 特 色。當年建造時因規模宏大, 附近民眾指此地「起新屋」, 即 為 今「 新 屋 」 地 名 由 來。 前 堂 門 楣 匾 額 寫 著「 陶 渭 流 芳」,「陶渭」是范姜家族的

家族祭祖都在前堂與後堂間的

有祭祀功能,范姜族內規定「不分

天井舉行,祖先牌位供奉在後堂中

火」,也就是所有族人只有一個祖 堂,因此每年春秋 舉辦祭祀時,規模 都很驚人。 祖堂平日對外 開放,展示范姜族 人兩百年前從中國 大陸攜來的生活器 物,吸引不少遊客 前來參訪。而范姜 老屋群各棟建築各

新屋 Xinwu

具獨特多樣內涵, 值得再三品味。▓

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185


歷史建築 Historic buildings

新屋農會倉庫

Warehouse of Xinwu Farmer's Association

日治時期 桃園市新屋區中華路 242 號,福德街 13-4 號 No.13-4, Fude St., No.242, Zhonghua Rd., Xinwu Dist., Taoyuan City

新屋農會舊倉庫群是北臺灣少 數留存的日治時期穀倉建築,結構、 座向及造型都相當特殊,內部還留 存一具少見的木造巨型碾米機。 臺灣總督府獎助興建的農業倉 庫從大正 11 年到昭和 17 年(19221942),共興建了 134 座,若加上 產業組合所經營的米穀倉庫,則為

刷及稻殼,牆上註記尺規刻度,方

304 座。新屋農會倉庫群面積共 400

便量測稻穀數量;屋頂的鬼瓦為獅

坪,當時農會主要工作是收購稻穀、

頭造型,甚具特色。

提供碾米機房及穀倉供農民使用。

倉庫裡有部巨型木造碾米機,

倉庫群含七棟建築,有紅磚牆、木

為處理大量稻穀,碾米機足有 3 層

條板封牆、木屋樑結構、日本瓦、

樓高。這部碾米機以馬達驅動,皮

抹紅土牆面。木鐵混合構造的屋架

帶和軸承控制速度,機件結構都還

優美,內牆以灰泥粉刷或摻紅土粉

保存完整。雖然現已不能運轉,但 可從現場播放的影片窺 見其操作方式。 舊倉庫群目前由新 屋 區 農 會 管 理 維 護, 現 更成立「稻米博物館」, 裡頭還設置稻米故事館、 米 食 天 地 館, 敘 述 新 屋 的 農 業 與 水 利 之 美, 並 展示客家祖先以其智慧

Unique in structure, direction and style, Warehouse of Xinwu Farmer’s Association is one of the few Japanese-styled barn kept to date, featuring an uncommon, three-floored wooden rice mill. Funded by Office of the Taiwan Governor-General, 134 barns were built between 1922 and 1942; totalling 304 with the rice barns. This one covered about 1322m², including 7 buildings with red-bricked, terra cotta, and wood plank walls, wooden beam structure, and Japanese roof tiles. It was used for grain purchase, storage and grinding. The farina-mixed grey bentonite or red earthen walls were marked for rice and grain measurement. Over the roof, a distinguishing Onigawara features a lion head, and an exquisitely shaped mixed wood-and-iron structured roof truss is featured. A three-floor-high giant wooden rice mill was used to grind mass amount of rice and grain. It was engine-operated and used leather belt axle for speed-control. While now defunct, its mechanical structure is intact and one can still appreciate its original workings from the video. Now the Warehouse is managed by Xinwu Farmer’s Association. A Rice Museum with exhibits including The Story of the Rice and the World of Rice has been established to showcase the beauty of Xinwu’s agricultural and water conservation cultures, as well as Hakka’s wisdom with creative rice dishes. ▓ 新屋 Xinwu

製作出的各種米食。▓

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187


茶鄉客庄

楊梅區 Yangmei

行政 分為 41 里 面積 89.1 平方公里 人口 163,654 人 (2016. 11 統計)

66

楊梅區

楊梅道東堂玉明屋 Abode of Yuming Daodong Tang , Yangmei

115

楊梅在地圖上呈長方形,北半部臺地向北緩斜,南半部狹長盆地,高山 頂在東,長岡嶺在西,重要河川社子溪由中間的缺口向北流入新屋,注入臺 灣海峽。 楊梅昔稱楊梅壢,如同中壢的「壢」,在客語裡指的是臺地間的河谷低 地,地名有「壢」字,可知此地也是客家人為主的城鎮。清康熙、乾隆年間

土牛溝楊梅段

Yangmei

Section of Qing Dynasty Border Moat, Yangmei

1

楊梅國中校長及教職員宿舍群

1

楊梅茶業改良場宿舍 Japanese-style Residence for Tea Research and Extension Station, Yangmei

Residence for Principal and Staff of Yangmei Senior High School

楊梅江夏堂 JiangxiaTang, Yangmei

移民建村於河谷,一說先民看到滿山遍野都是野生楊梅樹,另一說是先民栽 植,總之遍地楊梅樹就是「楊梅」地名的由來。 楊梅在桃園開發較晚,區內存有一段「番漢地界」土牛溝,此區的拓墾 與土牛溝有著密切關係。雍正、乾隆年間,臺灣設立土牛溝作為漢人與原住 民間的分界,而楊梅壢當時是平埔族霄裡社原住民的居住場域,所以官方在 西北邊設置了「隘」及「土牛」,以防禦原住民。 楊梅壢最早的拓墾者之一是道東堂玉明屋起造者鄭大模,「大模路」即 是以他為名,用以表彰他開拓的事蹟。黃家江夏堂建築的紅磚為自家燒製, 可見其對建材之講究,至今仍保存完好。 楊梅八景其中一景「埔心品茗芳」,指的是日治時期建立的臺灣省茶業 改良場,說明楊梅在臺灣茶葉產業發展史上曾扮演重要的角色;光復後,張 芳杰校長受家鄉父老之託創立楊梅中學,張校長的宿舍洋溢著和洋折衷的建 築風格。 市區稱為「老街」的大華街一帶是楊梅發展的重要區域,70 年前這裡有 楊梅火車站,當時是臺北與新竹間的交通中繼站,街上店面林立,熱鬧非凡。 民國 50 年(1961)鐵路改道,火車站移至大成路,重心往新街移動,現在 還留下幾間西洋歷史式樣立面牌樓的老屋,新舊並陳的建築風格,表現出楊 梅今昔的街景風情。▓

188

Yangmei is a rectangular-shaped area, with a plateau descending to the north, elongated basin to the south, meets mountains to the east, and another plateau to the west. Shezi River cuts through the area and runs into the Taiwan Strait via Xinwu region. It was named Yangmei Li, meaning Yangmei Valley in Hakka, with “Li” also used to denote a Hakka town. The name was said to come from bountiful yangmei (wax berry) trees grown in the region, likely found or planted by the 17th or 18th century settlers. Settlement of this area is closely related to the construction of the Section of Qing Dynasty Border Moat, with settlers arriving Yangmei when it was under Pingpu tribe’s control. In 18th century, the Qing government demarcated the lands by the Moat to segregate Han settlers from the aboriginals and prevent the latter’s comeback. One of the earliest settlers in Yangmei built Abode of Yuming Daodong Tang; “Damo Rd.” was named after him to honor his devotion in the settlement. On the other hand, the Huang’s JiangxiaTang was built with homemade red bricks and is well-kept, signaling the family’s meticulousness with building materials. Of Yangmei’s eight must-see sights, one of them is the Tea Research and Extension Station, evidence to Yangmei’s key role in the local tea business during the Japanese era. After Taiwan’s takeover, Mr. Zhang Fang-Jie established Yangmei Junior High School at the request of the hometown gentry and elders. The principal’s Residence blends both Japanese and Western architectural elements. Dahua St., also known as Old Street, was the core of Yangmei District. The affluent neighborhood was home to Yangmei Train Station and relay stations between Taipei and Xinchu. Railway diversion in 1961 had the station relocated to 楊梅 Dachen Rd., turning neighboring area into New Street; several fine Western-styled Yangmei “pailou” (gateway structure) can still be seen today. ▓

189


古蹟 Monument

楊梅道東堂玉明屋

Abode of Yuming Daodong Tang, Yangmei

昭和 2 年(1927) 桃園市楊梅區楊新路三段 1 巷 36 號

No.36, Ln. 1, Sec. 3, Yangxin Rd., Yangmei Dist., Taoyuan City

市定古蹟鄭宅道東堂玉明屋是 座融合西洋風格的客家宅第,具有 華美木雕、交趾陶、石雕、剪黏以 及近代磁磚、花瓶欄杆等,更特別 的是左右橫屋檐廊各有一組磚造西 洋式列柱 9 拱圈立面,深具建築學 上之技術保存價值。 「道東」是楊梅鄭氏堂號,鄭 家開臺祖鄭大模是開發楊梅的重要 人物,其後代參與地方發展,更具

分內外埕;屋前有水池,屋後有刺

有舉足輕重地位。「玉明屋」為鄭

竹圍籬,格局完整,規模龐大。

大模大房五世孫鄭玉明所建,由正

玉明屋左右牆堵貼有彩瓷面磚,

堂匾額上記「丁卯年」推測,其落

簷廊桁架上有精緻的垂樑與雙獅座

成啟用時間為 1927 年。建築格局為

木雕,水車垛上有交趾陶。位於左

「一堂七橫屋」,由屋頂高低層次

右橫屋的簷廊是磚砌圓拱柱列拱廊

可看出主從關係;正廳前有院牆劃

為其主要特色之一,柱身為洗石子 帶滾邊裝飾,此外,玉明屋所使用 的馬約利卡磁磚,製造年代為日本 大正到昭和初期,手工彩釉,製作 耗時,具時代意義,雖經近百年風 霜,色澤如新。 道東堂玉明屋在外觀具有客家 夥房的樸實,又展現大地主的氣派, 加上西式的建築細部風格,為楊梅 客家夥房中的代表。▓

190

T h e A b o d e o f Yu m i n g Daodong Tang is a traditional Hakka architecture with MinnanWestern hybrid, featuring exquisite wooden sculptures, Koji potteries, stone carvings, collage arts, modern ceramic tiles and vase-shaped balusterades. The left and right wing eaves galleries carry the 9-arch colonnade, a Western-influenced creation that yields great architectural value. “Dao-Dong,” referring to Han people should remember thy roots, is Yangmei Zheng’s clan name. Its ancestor, Zheng Damo, was a pioneer icon active in Yangmei’s affairs. In 1927, the Abode of Yuming was constructed by, and named after, according the plaque hanging above the main entrance, one of Zheng’s great-great grandsons. Built with one main hall and seven bays, the uneven rooftop design suggests a master-servant relationship. A grand-scaled architecture, the courtyard facing the front hall has walls separating the private and semi-private courtyards, a pond in the front, with throny-bamboo gate in the back. On both sides of the walls of the Abode, one finds early 20th century skillfully handcrafted Majolica tiles by the Japanese. The truss on the eaves gallery displays exquisitely-designed columns with a pair of lion woodwork and Koji ceramics. The most eye-catching architecture is found on both sides of the bays, where the tiledarcade columns made from washed granolithic with ornamental edging rule the eaves gallery. With simplicity of Hakka residence, a prominent household’s grandeur, plus Western architectural subtleties, the Abode Yuming Daodong Tang stands out among its 楊梅 Yangmei counterparts. ▓ Yangmei

191


楊梅江夏堂

Jiangxia Tang, Yangmei

日治時期 桃園市楊梅區小楊梅 28 號

No.28, Xiaoyangmei, Yangmei Dist., Taoyuan City

楊梅江夏堂是傳統客家建築, 特別之處是使用自家磚窯廠燒製的

屋頂有鯉魚排水口,窗條採尺磚砌, 為其工藝上特殊作法。

紅磚;斗拱為石製;窗條採尺磚砌;

江夏堂的各種建材尤其講究,

杉木係來自大陸的上好建材;工法

且黃家自有磚窯,燒出來的磚色澤

亦出自大陸匠師之手。

比一般的明亮,質地更堅實;斗拱

楊梅的黃家入墾於 1896 年,在

採硬石為料,至今保存完整,由於

本地有大片土地。江夏堂素有「千

材料講究,建築保存完好,主人拿

頃第」之稱,即形容黃家祖產分布

出老照片比對,今昔相去不遠。▓

之廣,從小楊梅沿著楊梅溪一帶到 楊梅市街,沿路全是黃家土地。 江夏堂入口的門柱頭狀如官帽,

A traditional Hakka architecture, Jiangxia Tang was built by masters from China with homemade red bricks; the structure consists of a stonemade bracket set, brick-planked window bars, and Chinese fir for woodwork. Also named as “A Thousand Hectare of Lands,” the Huang family who settled in the area since 1896 owns vast extension of the land along the Yangmei River. The top of its entrance is shaped as a traditional Chinese politician’s headwear, a unique design symbolizing expectations for the offspring. Its architectural exquisiteness can be appreciated from the roof, main hall and its windows, including the roof ridge, gable walls, bracket sets, beams, the red-bricked walls, all created by Chinese masters. The main hall also features a carp-shaped drainage and brick window planked bars. The building materials were carefully selected. The Huangs also owned kilns to burn bricks, which turned to be more solid and brighter than most; the quality stone-made bracket set is still intact, barely different in appearance from an old photo. ▓

獨具特色,象徵祖先對子孫的期許。 宅第本體如屋脊、馬背、斗拱、屋 架、紅牆……等做工細膩別緻,巧 妙工法均出自大陸匠師之手;正廳

楊梅 Yangmei

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193


歷史建築 Historic buildings

楊梅國中校長及教職員宿舍群 西元 1953 年 桃園市楊梅區校前路 49 號 No.49, Xiaoqian Rd., Yangmei Dist., Taoyuan City 桃園市楊梅區中山路 125 巷 12 號 No.12, Ln. 125, Zhongshan Rd., Yangmei Dist., Taoyuan City

楊梅國中校長宿舍為戰後初期

由於辦學成

建物,帶有日治時期和洋折衷的建

功, 其 他 鄉 鎮

築風格,立面採用大量的洗石子,

紛 來 請 託, 張

窗為「出窗」,屋子設有通風的換

校長馬不停蹄

氣孔及犬走 ,入口壁面及門柱有洗

地繼續奔走創

石子水平飾帶。宅園內空間寬廣,

校。 到 了 民 國

綠樹成蔭,裡頭藏著張芳杰校長無

59 年, 共 在 6

私辦學的故事。

鄉鎮集資興建 8 所學校,奠定南桃

張校長出身楊梅客家書香門第,

園客家鄉鎮的中學教育基礎。張校

民國 37 年任中壢國小校長,當時中

長辦學二十年, 民國 42 到 57 年間,

等學校少,張校長受鄉親父老之託

就住在這棟宿舍裡,後來才搬到隔

回鄉,靠地方捐資自力建校,成立

壁安養退休。

楊梅中學,這是光復後桃園第一所

未來整修後的楊梅國中校長宿

完全中學,張校長獲派為首任校長。

舍化身為「楊梅故事館」,古樸的 木地板、窄窄的長 廊、古典八角窗、 幾張老藤椅,都使 老宿舍瀰漫著時光 的氣息,將不定期 舉辦展覽與手作體 驗活動。▓

Residence for Principal and Staff of Yangmei Junior High School Built soon after the island’s takeover, the Residence’ architectural style blends in Japanese and Western elements. Its facade and the pillars by the entrance adopted washed granolithic that carried frieze; and a window bay protruding to the main wall. Air vents for ventilation and the Japanese inubashiri for drainage are included. A wideopen space with plenty tree shade, this was where Principal Zhang dedicated his life to public education. Born into a Hakka scholarly family, Zhang served as Principal in Zhongli Elementary School in 1948. Junior high schools were rare at the time; at the request of the hometown gentry and elders, he returned to Yangmei, set up the Junior High School and became its first Principal. His success in starting schools had other towns appealing for his help. By 1970, he has helped establish eight schools in six Hakka towns, ensuring a solid secondary education in the Hakka communities in southern Taoyuan. He lived here from 1953 to 1968; then moved next door when he retired. The building has been re-purposed as Yangmei Story Exhibit’s prep site, hosting a few exhibitions and handicraft workshops. The natural wooden flooring, narrowed hallway, classic hexagonal windows and a few wicker-made chairs on site seem to bring back history. ▓

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195


歷史建築 Historic buildings

楊梅茶業改良場宿舍 明治 40 年(1907) 桃園市楊梅區中興路 324 號

No.324, Zhongxing Rd., Yangmei Dist., Taoyuan City

昔日楊梅八景中的「埔心品茗

站南側,《臺灣日日新報》曾報導,

芳」,就是指楊梅茶業改良場,是

埔心當年設立火車站後,市況並未

茶「業」而非茶「葉」,可見楊梅

發展,直到三年後製茶試驗場設立,

在臺灣茶產業發展史上曾扮演重要

周邊地區才漸次繁榮起來,情況大

角色。

為改觀。製茶試驗場的設立,可說

楊梅茶業改良場所在地原為板

是埔心城鎮發展中一段重要歷史。

橋林家所有,於日治時期辦理保存

目前全臺只剩南投魚池、石碇

登記時移轉給臺灣總督府殖產局保

文山、臺東鹿野三個茶業改良場分

管,並設桃園廳長為管理人。由於

場,本場主體建築為丙種 3 戶建官

臺灣茶葉品質優良、名聞遐邇,相

舍,另有附屬草屋、炊事場、廁所

關產業十分發達,因此日人於明治

等。官舍的基地紋理闡述製茶試驗

36 年(1903)成立「臺灣總督府殖

場及埔心市街間密不可分的歷史涵

產局附屬製茶試驗場」並在此設置

構,更是見證臺灣茶業發展之歷史

「殖產局安平鎮製茶試驗場」,負

證明。▓

責製茶及茶樹栽培的研究,是臺灣 當時茶業界最完善的研發機構。 「製茶試驗場」位在埔心火車

Japanese-style Residence for Tea Research and Extension Station, Yangmei Of Yangmei’s eight must-see sights, one of them is the Tea Research and Extension Station (referred as “Puxin Premium Tea House”). The sector’s establishment in Yangmei renders the town its historical significance. Taiwan has great climate and geographical features for tea production. Owing to the exquisite, high-quality Taiwanese tea, the Japanese Colonial Government established The Resources Bureau, supervised by Office of the Taiwan Governor-General, and an “Anping Town Tea Experimentation Station” in 1903 to research and optimize the tea-making and cultivation techniques. This is the most comprehensive research institute of its kind in Taiwan. The Station is south to Puxin Train Station. Taiwan Nichinichi Shimpo (Taiwan Daily News) reported that it took three years of operation to see the Tea Research and Extension Station bringing prosperity to the town, signaling its critical role in local development. Now only three Tea Research and Extension Stations are found in Nantou and Taidong County, and New Taipei City in Taiwan. This used to be a Class C Official Residence (a government residence resembling regular housing) that came with a cottage, kitchen and toilet; The Residence not only offers a rich historical context for the intertwining relationship betw een the Tea Research and Extension Station and the town of Puxin but also bears witness to the development of the tea sector in Taiwan. ▓

楊梅 Yangmei

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197


文化景觀 Cultural landscape

土牛溝楊梅段

Section of Qing Dynasty Border Moat, Yangmei

乾隆 26 年(1761) 桃園市楊梅區青山二街 321 巷

Ln. 321, Qingshan 2nd St., Yangmei Dist., Taoyuan City

土牛溝楊梅段位於永平工商東

北至基隆獅球嶺,界線以西的居民

北 側 山 坡 上 保 留 形 貌 完 整, 長 約

為漢族及歸化的熟番(平埔族),

100 公尺。

要繳人頭稅,且不可至溝東越墾;

土牛溝又稱「土牛」或「土牛 紅 線 」, 為 清 康 熙 61 年(1722)

溝東為生番(原住民)領域,不受 清政府管轄。

朱一貴事件後由官府劃定,目的是

到 了 乾 隆 年 間, 土 牛 溝 演 變

避免漢人與原住民聯合反清,或是

為 劃 分 漢 民、 平 埔 族 與 原 住 民 的

雙方為墾地發生流血衝突而設的界

界 線, 主 要 目 的 為 防 止 漢 番 衝

線,初時立碑為界,後來演變成挖

突。

溝。挖溝前先立石,繼而挖出深溝,

土牛溝自乾隆 26 年(1761)正

一旁堆高溝土成界,由於成堆的溝

式掘溝築牛後,已在臺灣歷經 250

土形似牛背,故稱「土牛溝」,溝

年以上歷史。目前全臺土牛溝殘跡

寬與溝深一般在 3 公尺左右。

以楊梅段保存最為完整。▓

這條界線最初南起屏東枋寮,

The Yangmei section of Qing Dynasty Border Moat is well-kept, 100 meters long, 3 meters in width and depth, to the northeast of YongPing Vocational School. Also named “earthen oxen,” the Qing government set it up to avoid further conflicts between the Han people and the Taiwanese aboriginals similar to 1722’s incident. The Hans used rocks as borders, dug deep trenches and applied the dug dirt to form borders. Its name came from the earth dug and piled next to the trench that looks like an oxen’s curved back. The original moat went as far south as Pingdong and as north as Keelung; the Hans to the west were not allowed to use lands to the east, whereas the indigenous people to the east were not ruled by the Qing government. It was meant to keep them from mutual intrusion and attacks. Since 1761, such kind of trench has been around for over 250 years. This stretch is the best-kept original section of the Moat in Taiwan. ▓

楊梅 Yangmei

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199


國家圖書館出版品預行編目 (CIP) 資料 桃園市文化資產導覽手冊 / 莊秀美主編 . -- 初版 . -- 桃園市 : 桃市文化局 , 民 106.08 面 ; 公分 ISBN 978-986-05-2793-3( 平裝 ) 1. 古蹟 2. 文化資產 3. 桃園市 733.9/109.6

106009986

桃園市文化資產 導覽手冊 Cultural Heritage Guide of TAOYUAN 發 行 人 : 鄭文燦 主 編:莊秀美 審 稿: 王淳熙、徐旺興、黃士娟、黃文宗、黃俊銘、葉俊麟 (按姓名筆畫順序) 行政編輯:張至敏、魏淑真、何慧娟、余彩屏 校稿協力:楊鈴慧、黃暐珉、管慧雯、陳璐誼、郭宏嘉、劉芝暄 出 版 者:桃園市政府文化局 地 址:330 桃園市桃園區縣府路 21 號 網 址:http://culture.tycg.gov.tw/ 電 話:03-3322592 傳 真:03-3318634 文字撰寫:賴秀美、劉鎮豪、林佳穎 英文翻譯:沈倩宇、魏廷諭 美術設計:劉鎮豪 編印製作 : 博創印藝文化事業有限公司 地 址 : 新北市中和區中山路三段 110 號 9 樓之 3 電 話 : 02-82215966 2017 年 ( 民 106 年 ) 8 月初版 2,000 本 定價 : 新臺幣 280 元 ISBN: 9789860527933 GPN: 1010600864 本書圖片、文字版權皆為桃園市政府文化局

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