Coffee table book by dhirendra jethuri

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Urban guerrillas

The city is their gallery, their names are mostly pseudonyms, their fame derives from their edgy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; often illegal â&#x20AC;&#x201C; campaigns and installations. Artists like JR and Banksy are bringing back cerebral art by way of the street. w o r d s j e n n y b u c h h o l z p h o t o s c h r i s t o p h e r s h ay

The pupils alone are shoulder-high on most passersby. As you walk past all those gigantic eyes, your main impression is of black – only by crossing the road and viewing them from the other side can you really appreciate the laconic expression of an elderly man as he stares out from beneath bushy eyebrows. In Venice, Los Angeles, a giant eye takes up an entire house wall – part of the “Wrinkles of the City” exhibition by artist JR, displaying giantsized elderly people on the buildings of LA. The message that screams out of all these colossal pictures by JR is the same: “Look here: see me.” In a youthobsessed city like LA, it’s sometimes important to remind people that there is such a thing as life over 60. JR, a 27-year-old Frenchman, only refers to himself by his initials and always wears a hat and sunglasses in public. He doesn’t wait for permission before creating his art – it simply appears, quite suddenly, in precisely those places where people would rather look away. As street art, it is accessible to everybody – or, depending on your perspective, imposes itself on everybody.

“ What we see changes who we are.” Street art is the wild child of the art family, despising enclosed spaces, reacting defiantly to authority, preferring to play where it shouldn’t. Since the early days of graffiti in the New York of the early Seventies, street artists have steadfastly refused to abandon cities to more institutionalised forms of aesthetic, recapturing them by oftentimes dramatic acts of visual rebellion. For JR, Mark Jenkins and Brazilian twins “Os Gemeos”, mocking the symbols of global capitalism is an especially popular pastime, but prejudices and stereotypes are also favourite targets for artistic attack. JR works with black-and-white posters of eyes, hands, faces – he shows us the people we’d rather overlook. A few years ago, residents of the chic “Seizième” neighbourhood in Paris were suddenly confronted by vast posters of young men from the suburbs. And from the grimy favelas in the hills above Rio, giant eyes watch the hustle and bustle of the capital, forcibly reminding city dwellers of the harsh life lived by their hillside neighbours. Meanwhile, along the wall dividing Israel from Palestine a series of dual portraits – of taxi-drivers, solicitors, cooks – reminds travellers that as far as appearance is concerned, there’s no perceptible difference between Israelis and Palestinians. These oversized pictures give cities faces, make human beings appear more human, cause distances to disappear: quite suddenly there you are, right up close. Banksy also likes to provoke passersby with his art. The Englishman uses a pseudonym and never appears in public. He may – or may not – be 36-yearsold. He first became famous for his stencils – first of rats, creeping over the walls of London, then of kissing policemen, masked demonstrators throwing flowers, children

Artists JR Don’t look away: Frenchman JR pastes giant black-and-white photos onto public buildings. www.jr-art.net Banksy The stencil graffiti and installations by this English artist who never appears in public convey social criticism with acerbic humour. www.banksy.co.uk Os Gemeos Yellow creatures and graffiti by the Pandolfo twins from São Paulo couple political commentary with Brazilian folklore. osgemeos.com.br

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Man! I feel like a woman Luxury designer brands are leading the fashion pack when it comes to the ‘tux and tie’ revival in women’s clothing. We analyse the revolution called ‘androgynous fashion’. words meghna sharma

On the streets of fashion capitals around the world a sexual revolution is emerging. But this modern movement has got nothing to do with free love, it’s about androgynous fashion. For years women have raided their man’s wardrobe and hell, they have worn it better, be it the boyfriend jeans and jackets, oxfords and brogues or man suits and bow ties. And the designers have loved the women in it as much as we have. But when they present to us models strutting down the runway wearing mannish attire, the question that crosses our mind is, how can a woman wear ‘man pants’ and still look so chic? The tuxedo revolution in women’s clothing began over 70 years ago. Singer and actress Marlene Dietrich pushed the envelope of the fashion-world by pioneering an androgynous look that has transcended into today’s trends. During her career, Dietrich was frequently seen incorporating menswear into her wardrobe with boxy sport coats and high-waisted trousers. Her look evoked a stark contrast to the gentile and feminine silhouettes that were popular during the 1930’s. This look was then cemented as a fashion classic in 1966 by the iconic Le Smoking suit. Created by the famous couturier Yves Saint Laurent, the Le Smoking tuxedo suit for women was the first of its kind to earn attention in the fashion world and in popular culture. It pioneered long, minimalist, androgynous styles for women, as well as the use of power suits and the pant suit in modern-day society. Sequinned, cropped, belted, double-breasted, long, mini-dress-like, caped, draped, shaped and uncollared but always black, the Le Smoking was a perennial favourite of Saint Laurent with a new design practically every year. He’s famous for calling black a “refuge” and has described the Smoking as an “essential” because it makes a woman feel “constantly fashionable”. “It’s an item of clothing of style and not of fashion. Fashions pass, style is eternal,” Saint Laurent had said in an interview. Pierre Berge, former chairman of the YSL couture house had remarked, “By appropriating male apparel and enabling women to wear it, Saint Laurent transferred the attributes of power from one sex to the other. For a woman, Le Smoking is an indispensable garment with which she finds herself continually in fashion, because it is about style, not fashion. Fashions come and go, but style is forever.” An alternative to the traditional LBDs or evening gown, the French designer took the Smoking and in 1968 teamed it with Bermuda shorts. In the mid70s it became a jumpsuit, while in 1996, it had adopted a belted safari jacket look. While Dietrich and YSL are instrumental in triggering androgyny in the world of fashion, many brands like Gucci, Chanel, Dolce and Gabbana, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Abaete, Balmain, Hermes, Salvatore Ferragamo, etc, have joined the bandwagon. Priya Sachdev, COO and creative director, TSG International Marketing

How can a woman wear ‘man pants’ and still look so chic and sexy? 16

Pvt. Ltd, that represents a host of international brands like Stella McCartney, Dian Von Furtsenberg, etc, in India, says, “Androgynous fashion definitely kicked off with YSL and it’s still a big part of runways season after season. YSL and Stella McCartney tuxedo jackets and trousers make their women look strong, beautiful and chic in them.” The very beating heart of fashion – as all style divas know so well – is change, a thirst for something new. While many would argue that the androgynous trend is anything but new, it has made a roaring comeback indeed. Gucci’s women’s Autumn/Winter 2011-2012 collection floats on the clouds of colourful fur, elusive transparency, masculine accents, and glimpses of patent leather. Talking about the androgynous touch in the collection, Frida Giannini, creative director, Gucci, says, “This is a contemporary female dandy who fuses glamour and seduction using the iconic codes of the House. She is a polished woman with a decisive personality, who is attentive to detail and willing to dare.” Giannini adds, “The season’s collection is influenced by a vision of the Forties. The line drops down to the knee and flares. Stoles emphasise shoulders, tight on small masculine jackets with striking lapels and on coats with military detailing and a synched waist. The masculine side returns with extra-wide pants, in lightweight nabuk or in British mélange fabrics. And the pantskirt becomes a signature, paired with a caban and over-the-knee boots.” Many who witnessed the Salvatore Ferragamo’s show at the Milan Fashion Week live, were pleasingly shocked! Massimiliano Giornetti, creative director of the brand, designed sharp suits in pinstripes, houndstooth, and Prince of Wales check. Like so many other designers who participated in the event, Giornetti also played the masculine against the feminine. He then resurrected the Eighties, too. How did the designer make a pinstripe jumpsuit worn with matching blazer and trench as sexy as his second-skin knit dress in a patchwork of houndstooth and leopard print? It’s all down to cut – as in cut down to there. Giornetti’s muse was referred to “an elusive woman,” and the fantasy was seductive from where we were sitting. Add a crisp white button-down to the racks, though, and there will also be plenty of eager customers for Ferragamo to reckon with. It’s true that we expect certain design houses to create magic every season, but the one brand that stole the show when it comes to this trend is Chanel. Known as the epitome of feminine silhouette and style, Chanel let go of the conventional feminine clichés with the Boy Chanel Bag. Its ambivalent design has a hint of the androgynous woman and opens the way to a new kind of a woman. The designs are clean, bold, simple and appealing. In fact, the duality of the design is inspired by a cartridge bag that was originally made for hunters. Karl Lagerfeld suggests this with a new interpretation of boyish charm saying, “Chanel used men’s underwear to make dresses; she had this boyish attitude, in fact it is the very spirit of Chanel. She got it from Boy Capel, the great love of her life, which, incidentally, explains why the new bag is called the Boy Chanel.” Fashion has always played with androgyny, but lately it has taken a proactive step onto the centre stage. Our verdict: embrace it.

This Double spread will be placed at the center of the book

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Sunshine smiles Witness the hues of the Masai tribe, romance Swahili & Gujrathi with the locals, fall in love with the turquoise waters, explore the wildlife in safaris & master your dance moves with the artistes. It is hard not to want to go back to Mombasa, Kenya. w o r d s p u r va g r o v e r

Discover the ‘Little India’ in the hearts of the locals and

If you are an Indian, then chances of you being tagged as a foreigner in any part of the world are limited. It was a couple of years back when I was taking my first flight to a foreign land that a distant cousin had said this to me. Since then, the thought has travelled with me to beaches, desserts and mountains, only making the belief stronger. Today, I take it as a given that I’d meet Indians wherever I go. And then wherever I don’t meet any, Amitabh Bachchan comes to my rescue. “I’m from India,” I told the cheerful Benson Kabugi Wamwea, our host on the flight from Nairobi airport to Ukunda airstrip. “Amitabh Bachchan

and Ramayana,” he smiled; a smile that warmed my heart and quickly found a place for itself in my holiday memories. I felt at home, instantly, the Gods and the legend were with me! What I did not know was that I’d also be eating Pav Bhaji in the ‘Little India’, which I discovered in the hearts of the locals and old streets of Mombasa. It was noon when I reached Diani Reef Beach Resort & Spa, Mombasa. If India was colourful, then I was to fall in love with the rainbow here. What could be more welcoming than the chants and colours of the Masai tribal men and women? I

thought of a friend back home, a believer in the power of accessories. The orangered-yellow-green-blue hues in their headgear, neckpiece, earrings, anklets, et al teamed up with the humble red outfit would have won her heart. It won mine. They sprinkled water on us as we walked in, a ritual to cleanse us off our impurities; we now had the official license to break free on the African soil. “Don’t keep the balcony doors open,” a staff member warned us as we headed to our rooms. The monkeys on the property don’t like to be chased away, don’t annoy them by crossing their path. Surprisingly, soon you’ll discover that it’s

not just the monkeys, who have a mind of their own, your feet do too! Irrespective of their dancing abilities (or the lack of it), they’d move. Let them be, it’s a holiday after all. The same evening when I indulged in a Dawa, a traditional African cocktail, my two left feet put up a lovely show for me. A cheerful bunch of men and women grooved to Afro beats; soon ‘Waka Waka’ gave way to ‘Om Shanti Om’, followed by ‘Deedar De’. It would have been unfair to put the blame on my feet. Interestingly, as soon as the locals would observe that you’re waking up to the idea of indulging in some Afro fun, they’d tempt you with more options.

Grab them. You may feel foolish then, but feel glad in retrospect. I was happy to have memorised the ‘Jumbo Bwana’ song and felt proud when I crooned it with the rest of the group, on our traditional dhow from the South Coast to Wasini Island. We were heading for lunch and if I were a painter, I would have shared with you how the waters spoke to me by way of strokes and you would have believed me. Nevertheless, let me see if I can create an image without an easel. Well, we romanticised the shades of blue waters, got closer to the marine life as we snorkeled and played with the breeze as it directed us to Coral Spirits, a restaurant carved out of corals and run by the locals. Our chairs were lined up to face the blues of the Indian Ocean, it was easy to fall in love there, be it with the gorgeous smiles of the men, who served us crab cakes or the harsh sun, even though it got intolerable with each passing moment. Anyone could get away with anything here. Your bond with the sun and your faith in the sun block will just keep getting stronger with each date. We were getting bolder. A day later we were under the direct sun at the National Shimba Reserve in south Mombasa. I wanted my prayers to be answered, one glance of a leopard and I’d die a happy woman, I told our ranger, Sau Mou. She smiled back; the foolish touristy statement wasn’t new to her. The Gods heard me, a little ; a pair of giraffes stepped out for a snack and played hide-n-seek with the trees. The excited shrieks in the van subsided to mere whispers on the arrival of the adorable twosome. Don’t shy away from acting foolish, I repeat, smile at them, they’ll be at their hospitable best, you are in their home. White elephants, Sable antelopes and buffaloes too appeared for brief moments. On another date with the sun, we were at the Diani beach, in the resort, riding camels and jet-skiing. The gorgeous camel I rode was called George. While the ride on the white sand was calm, the one on the ski was dramatic! In addition to experiencing the breeze in my tresses and the salt on my skin, I felt the speed in every heartbeat. The waves will hit you hard, literally, not only waking up your senses to the beauty of the turquoise waters around but also to the fact that some things truly need to be experienced sans all fears. It was only 45 minutes later that my instructor convinced me to step down. It was getting darker and then others too deserved a chance, he smiled. Days give way to nights swiftly in Mombasa, but then the nights can stretch as long as you wish them to, especially when you are at the beach indulging in nothingness. The sound of Bollywood classics from the resort reached us as we sat at the Diani beach on one late evening. Their perfect notes and more than perfect diction left us in awe. “We grew up listening to Bollywood,” they told us, adding, “We’ve always had Indian CDs and DVDs in our collection”. And if this isn’t enough for you, wait till they impress you with their affection for Indian spices. If you are a Gujrathi, then you would love the ‘tadka’ in the Gujrathi Dal that the chefs prepare for you. One Indian love just leads to another here. When a local saw us gorging on the delicacy, he suggested we take a walk in the streets of Old Mombasa and fall in love with ‘their’ India. “Indulge in the true Gujju-Afro experience,” he said. We agreed to do so. Once on the streets, we haggled in Gujrathi to get the best price for the mementos. I was definitely home. Now, who said Africa was a foreign land?

Mercedes Coffee Table Book

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The force October 30, 2011, is a date that will be etched in history as the day Formula 1 came to India. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a look at what lies ahead. w o r d s J o s e p h Ko r a i t h

The story began with Kolkata (then Calcutta) in 1997. Fourteen years and approximately eight venues later, the Indian Grand Prix is now an exciting reality. October 30, 2011, is a date that will be etched in history as the day Formula 1 came to India. All of this seemed a distant reality even a year back in spite of assurances from the organisers that everything was on track. The Commonwealth Games debacle had left everyone, Indian or otherwise, a little sceptical about completing the circuit on time. But on September 1, 2011, FIA (International Automobile Federation) Formula One Race Director Charlie Whiting officially homologated the Buddh International Circuit (BIC) and all lights turned green. The clockwise circuit, designed by the famous Hermann Tilke, is 5.14 km long, features 16 corners with nine right-handers and seven left-handers. It will be a high speed circuit with the average speed expected to be around 210 kmph and the maximum to reach an impressive 320 kmph. With these speeds it will become the second fastest circuit in the current line up behind Monza in Italy. Another interesting feature is the elevations which will rise up to 14 metres from turn one to three. 14 metres, which translates into a height of three storeys in our concrete jungle world, is unique to this track, claim the organisers. Add to that a 1.25 km straight and three to four corners where at least four cars can have overtaking opportunities and the circuit becomes an exciting proposition in comparison to the other straight laced ones. The

The clockwise Buddh International Circuit will be a high speed straight is also the longest in the current F1 calendar with Abu Dhabi’s Yas Marina circuit second at 1.1 km. Organisers claim the track will have a combination of high, medium and slow speed corners which is very rare to get in one circuit itself. Quite a number of firsts for India. Inputs from the F1 teams have also been considered in the final layout of the track. Based on their suggestions, the planned hairpin at turn seven was removed and at turn three the track was widened so that while coming out of the turn drivers can choose different lines of exit. The expected lap time around is 1 minute, 27.02 seconds and it will be a 60-lap race. Another interesting aspect is that the circuit has been designed in a spectator friendly way so that the fans will get to see a lot more of the track as compared to the other tracks. The seating capacity is initially expected to be 110,000 with provisions to increase it later to 200,000. There are 18 areas from which spectators can watch the race with ticket prices ranging from ` 2500 to ` 35,000. The cheapest, at ` 2500 per ticket, is the Natural Stand (South) which can seat about 6500 fans. This is at Turn 9 & 10. For ` 6000 you can get yourself a spot in the Picnic Stand South and North which can accommodate 8000 people and is situated over Turns 12, 13 & 14 and Turns 1 & 2 respectively. The Classic Stand can seat 36,838 and can be bought for ` 6500 and will overlook Turns 3, 5-8, 14-16. Next is the Star Stand at ` 8500 at Turn 4. If however you have the money to splurge then a seat in the Premium Stand which has a capacity of 13,000 can be yours for ` 12,500. The coveted Grandstand seat will set you back by ` 35,000 and there are 20,156 of them up for grabs. These ticket prices are for three day passes from October 28 to 30. Organisers claim the tickets for the Natural Stand have already been sold out and rest of the ticket sales are also promising enough and a full house is expected. Security, safety and medical facilities have been taken care of and FIA’s medical

Stats B-class B 200 BlueEfficiency Engine / Output 1.6-liter four-cylinder, 115 kW at 5,000 rpm; max. torque 250 Nm at 1,250 to 4,000 rpm Transmission 7G DCT dual-clutch transmission Acceleration 0-100 km/h (62 mph) in 8.4 s Top speed 220 km/h (137 mph) Fuel consumption urban: 8.3–7.9 l premium/100 km (28.3–29.8 mpg) inter-urban: 5.0–4.7 l premium/100 km (47– 50 mpg) combined: 6.2–5.9 l premium/100 km (37.9–39.9 mpg) CO2 emissions (combined) 145–138 g/km

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Perfect Harmony The new Mercedes-Benz B-Class sets the rhythm in the compact class. words martin trockner

p h o t o s dav i d f i s c h e r

Thick Insert Front

Stats B-class B 200 BlueEfficiency Engine / Output 1.6-liter four-cylinder, 115 kW at 5,000 rpm; max. torque 250 Nm at 1,250 to 4,000 rpm

Thick Insert Back

Transmission 7G DCT dual-clutch transmission Acceleration 0-100 km/h (62 mph) in 8.4 s Top speed 220 km/h (137 mph)

The best place to be at a concert is not in the front row, it’s on the stage. But you don’t have to be a member of the band to experience the buzz of the perfect performance. If you’ve had the chance to sit behind the wheel of the new Mercedes-Benz B-Class you’ll already be familiar with the sensation – the B-Class hits all the right notes in the premium compact segment. One look at the sports tourer’s instrument panel will tell you this is a car in which design and function play a key role. The silver-colored air vents recall the engines on a jet plane and the central display appears to float above the dashboard. Everything has a tidy and clear feel, the cabin’s design shaped by the car’s technology without being drowned out by it.

Chill-out lounge

The new B-Class is almost 5 cm (approx. 2 in.) lower than its predecessor, but passengers sit more upright than before. Indeed, even drivers over 1.90 m (6 ft. 3 in.) can do so in the knowledge of having ample space above their heads.

Fuel consumption urban: 8.3–7.9 l premium/100 km (28.3–29.8 mpg) inter-urban: 5.0–4.7 l premium/100 km (47– 50 mpg) combined: 6.2–5.9 l premium/100 km (37.9–39.9 mpg) CO2 emissions (combined) 145–138 g/km (233–222 g/mi) Cd 0.27 Luggage space 486 to 1,545 liters The figures are not based on an individual vehicle and do not constitute part of the product offer; they are provided solely for purposes of comparison between different vehicle models.

w w w. m e r c e d e s - b e n z . c o m

Backstage, too (i.e. in the rear), room is plentiful. So comfort will be in copious supply when you’re on the road, be that to a concert venue or to the recording studio. Kit shouldn’t be a problem either. If you need a little extra capacity, the rear seats slide fore and aft with minimal fuss and the backrest of the front passenger seat can be folded forward. Plenty of space, then, for the guitars, drum kit, amp – and the rest of the band. Rarely does a tour go off without the odd drama, but the radar-based warning system Collision Prevention Assist reduces the chances of a rear-end collision being one of them (see page 12 for more details). This standard-fitted assistance system breaks new ground in the compact class. The engineers have also developed a 1.6-liter 4-cylinder gasoline engine specially for the new B-Class. The turbocharged unit benefits from direct injection and comes with the ECO start/ stop function as standard. The B-Class slips immediately into its stride when you

pull away. The secret to its almost imperceptible progress through the gears is the all-new dual-clutch transmission developed by Mercedes-Benz. The technically innovative 7G-DCT system matches its responses to the engine revs with such effortless precision, you’d think it was a manual gearbox at work rather than an automatic. All of which means the B-Class responds like lightning to the first dab of the bass pedal and maintains an uninterrupted flow of power all the way into seventh gear.

Streamlined, naturally

The sports tourer is just as dynamic on the outside, the car’s sporting inclinations being evident before it so much as turns a wheel. Take the prominent crease on the flanks that turns steeply upwards towards the rear, a sleight of hand from the designers to lend the compact B-Class extra visual length. The slim new headlamps