NO.01. THE GROWING UP ISSUE FALL 2015
RAEVEN PHOTOGRAPHY ELIANNE TAVERAS
i-D AMERICA
i-DEAS, FASHION, MUSIC, PEOPLE
MILLENNIALS
insi-De the growing up issue What it’s like growing up a Millennnial!
FEATURES + FASHION
47 Millennials Paving the Way. Interviews with young adults about what impacted their life today growing up a Millennial. Text Mi’Kiera Graham-Young. 45 10 Events that Influenced Millennials. Some reasons why Millennials are who they are today. Text Mi’Kiera Graham-Young. 67 Urban Attitude. Do you have what it takes to hang in this crowd? Photography David Mahone Styling Dominique Holcomb. 12 Our Favorite Kind of Picnic. Picnic necessities: Candy and Rose please. Photography Katie Georgas Styling Jordan Maugeri & Mi’Kiera Graham-Young. 55 Re-Emerging Trend. Style Tip: One re-emerging trend styled 3 different ways. Photography Gabriel Freites Styling Jordan Maugeri. 64 A Flash From Fashion’s Past. How could we forget those 90s trends when they keep making comebacks? Text Jordan Maugeri. 101 The Dapper Club. Exclusive membership only. Photography Cara Kelly Styling Mi’Kiera Graham-Young. 98 We Make the Rules Now. Millennials are the adults now and they are choosing their own rules to conduct their lives by. 21 Nostalgic Beauty.
An ode to the makeup of the 80s, 90s, and 00s that paved the way for today’s Millennial makeup artists. Photography Elianne Taveras Makeup Julia Morgan. 24 3 Decades of Beauty Evolution. Make up has seen its dramatic changes, especially when it comes to the last 3 decades. Text Julia Franco. 27 #Athleisure. Denim make way for this mix of throwback and present day athletic wear trends. Photography Erin Wyrosdick Styling Dominique Holcomb. 113 i-Con. Last stop we find out what makes Miley Cyrus an i-Con. Text Jordan Maugeri.
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the growing up issue no. 01
what’s your favorite childhood memory?
editor-in-chief mi’kiera graham-young
creative director dominique holcomb
fashion director jordan maugeri
art director julia franco i-D THE GROWING UP ISSUE 6
i-D fall 2015 the growing up issue
Millennials are coming of age, entering the workforce, becoming established in careers, and starting families. Millennials are preparing to be the future. They are gearing up to make the rules and start their own legacies. In the Growing Up Issue of i-D we explore what factors molded Millennials when they were growing up to make them the individuals they are today. We take a look at the popular trends that Millennials experienced growing up to present day. Throwbacks from fashion to music to celebrities to current events all have an affect on the person one becomes. Let’s not forget technology. The Internet was a huge technological advance that has inspired innovations that have put Millennials more ahead of their parents when they were the same age, in terms of what they are able to accomplish. Millennials lived through significant events from the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s. The 80s and 90s specifically are decades that are still referenced up to this day, especially in terms of clothing and makeup trends. With makeup looks, there are the colorful, bold looks from the 80s and a more understated, natural look from the 90s. The 90s also saw the birth of the supermodel, with the greats, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, and Christy Turlington leading the way for models today, such as Cara Delevingne, Jourdan Dunn, Joan Smalls, Gigi Hadid and many more. Growing up a Millennial has not been all glitz and glam of course. Millennials have had their worlds rocked by tragedies. Between terrorist attacks and school shootings, Millennials have experienced their share of insensitive casualties. These events have only served to make Millennials stronger and more aware of the world around them. The ruling 1 percent does not easily persuade Millennials. It is no easy task to win over the Millennial vote in politics. Millennials are ready to take a stand and fight for what they believe is right rather than conforming to what some old politician thinks the country needs. From sustainable initiatives to equality for all sexes and races, Millennials are always ready to protest for their cause, creating movements with objectives they are dedicated to achieve. This is a different world we are living in than that of Millennials’ parents. Millennials are destined to lead separate paths because of the people they were raised and influenced to be. What made you who you are today? MI’KIERA GRAHAM-YOUNG, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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OUR FAVORITE KIND OF PICNIC
Photography Katie Georgas Styling Jordan Maugeri & Mi’Kiera Graham- Young
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NOSTALGIC
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BEAUTY
Photography Elianne Taveras Makeup Julia Morgan
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3 Decades of Beauty Evolution TEXT JULIA FRANCO During the past three decades, the standards of beauty and fashion have been constantly evolving. Some trends have been left in the past, while others are making their comeback.
The eighties were saturated with vibrant colors, as well as the exaggeration of size and shape. The hair was completely undisciplined and heavily teased. The makeup was bright, with multiple colors adorning the eyes, cheeks, and mouth. This decade was far from natural. This was the time of the super woman, where everything was always very impeccable, with manicured nails, dynamic make-up and voluminous hair. Two important events marked the 80s: Punk and New Wave. In Punk, the hair was unruly and the eyes were heavily lined with black kohl pencils and shadows in contrast to their pale skin. While in New Wave, it was all very multicolored. Eye shadows were applied with the rainbow as inspiration, using especially blue hues. Blush was applied heavily, making strong lines along the cheekbones, mostly in shades of pink. Lipstick and lip-gloss were worn in the shades of red, fuchsia and orange. The 90s saw a drastic change in how women wore their makeup. Eyebrows were composed of very fine lines. The popular hairstyle was “The Fountain Head.� Scrunchies were an obsession and crunchy hair was also an option. Braids would even be seen in hair as accents to the styles. Highlights or pink colored hair were also favored. When Friends debuted on television, Jennifer Aniston’s character, Rachel, had a haircut that was well liked and copied. Blue shadows remained a desire and metallic shadows began to be wanted. Body glitter was often seen flittering in the light on the bodies of 90s teens. Brown lipstick shades replaced the red lipsticks, fuchsia and oranges. Lining your lips with a dark lip liner would have also been something you would do in the 90s. Natural nails were preferred over flashy colors, so the French manicure gained marketability. At first, the 2000s seemed to lack iconic trends like the decades that preceded it. Over time, technology has been gaining ground in the fashion world. It began to be present in the world of beauty in the 2000s as well. One great example of this was getting botox on the face, collagen injections and Restylane lips. The first half of this decade saw trends brought to consumers through teenage pop stars on the rise, such as Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears. Thanks to technology, it was in 2002 that Botox was approved for use in treating wrinkles. Many super stars were very excited about the news. It was in the 2000s that tanning also emerged, especially self-tanners. Furthermore, the rise of med spas, different from traditional spas, gained favor due to their aesthetic procedures such as depilation, hair removal laser and botox application. Mineral makeup became a sensation; with it the Bare Essentials and Bare Minerals ascended the market. Big makeup trends of the present are the smoky eye, along with nude lipstick. Another staple of this decade is the use of false eyelashes. The need for long, voluminous eyelashes has led to innovations, such as eye drops that have the ability to increase lash length. The release of Chanel Black Satin promoted the popularity of black nail polish. This is definitely the decade in which hair extensions are no longer a secret and celebrities are not afraid to admit to using them. Thanks to the popularity of fashion blogs and beauty tutorials on YouTube, beauty has progressed much in the 2000s. No matter the decade, makeup and its trends are something that women covet.
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Photography Erin Wyrosdick Styling Dominique Holcomb
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#ATHLEISURE
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events that influenced millennials TEXT MI’KIERA GRAHAM-YOUNG Know your past. Trust your experiences. Here are some events that got you here today. Whether you refer to us as Generation Y, Millennials, the Nintendo Generation, or the Internet Generation, we are next in line to replace the Baby Boomers as they retire from the workplace. There are numerous events that have shaped Millennials into the people we are and will soon become. Where the Baby Boomers had the TV, Millennials have the Internet. In my opinion, the Internet is a much more impactful technological advance. Millennials are different than the generations that preceded us, and here are several reasons why:
1. The World Wide Web
The World Wide Web launched in August 1991 and commenced the Information Age. This is one of the most important innovations. The Internet is the beginning inspiration for advances that came after, such as Facebook, Twitter, Snapchat, and smartphones. We grew up with technology. The Internet changed the way people conduct business. Technology is a vital part in most of the jobs Millennials are entering. The Internet has the ability to connect people that live on opposite sides of the world. E-mail has made faxing and hand written letters almost obsolete. Even books have been moved online through e-book technology. Anything can be found on the Internet.
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2. Mobile Phones
Mobile phones are another essential part of our generation. We don’t go anywhere with out our smartphones. Today, they are basically handheld computers, fitting easily into our pockets and bags. They allow us to access the Internet on the go. With our phones we can send emails and text messages, use our social media of choice, keep a calendar and set reminder alerts, play video games, and even create work presentations all from one single device. It is second nature to see someone walking down the street glancing down at his or her iPhone or Android phone. Some of us get a little too absorbed in our smartphones due to all of the capabilities that are just a touch away.
3. Facebook
Facebook is the social media innovation that paved the way for the numerous others that spring up year after year. Facebook was created in 2004. The social network began as just a networking website for college students, but became so much more. It grew to further change the way we communicate with friends and family. Facebook has nearly one billion active users connecting with old friends or new friends, while sharing stories, news, personal photographs, and more. Social networking began with Facebook and has merged into our modern lives as an integral component. There are social networks that fit each aspect of your life: Twitter for personal expression, Foursquare for travel, Instagram for photographs, etc. It is hard to find a person that is not active on a social network.
4. Global Warming
Global Warming is a huge debate in terms of whether it exists or not. It definitely seems as if the average temperature of the Earth’s atmosphere and oceans are increasing gradually. Many believe this change is permanently altering the Earth’s climate. Abuse of the planet and its resources have reportedly contributed to global warming. Some of our generation has taken it into their hands to fight global warming through sustainable and eco-friendly practices. New businesses have sprung up with sustainable ethics and environmental responsibility as essential factors. Some of us demand climate action, rallying to get the governments of the world to pass legislation promoting cleaner plans of action. We need to stop abusing Earth, so there can actually be an Earth for future generations to come.
5. Google
The creation of Google is yet another game changer for us Millennials. Also created in 2004, Google is the search engine that has changed the way we find and access information. We rely on Google to answer the specific or random questions that we wonder about in our heads. We no longer rely on physical, printed textbooks to gather information on our research papers. The search engine allows us to search the web, news, videos, images, maps, and more in a matter of seconds. It is a blessing and a curse, further entangling us in the world of the Internet.
6. The Recession
The Recession hugely affected Millennials that were graduating college and entering the workforce between 2007 and 2009. Americans, as well as the world felt the impact. As major American financial institutions began to go bankrupt, it lead to controversial bailouts by the federal government and a rescuing of much of Wall Street, as well as many American automakers. The actions of the government and several large corporations led to the downturn in the American economy. The downturn forced lay offs and put the job market into even more extreme competitiveness, as jobs were slim to nothing for that period of time.
7. The First Black President
Millennials are not the easy vote to win when it comes to politics. Democratic President Barack Obama, the first African American president of the United States, won over the Millennial vote in both the 2008 and 2012 elections. Many 90s born Millennials were coming of age and voting for the first time during these elections. Overall, 53 percent of Millennials approve of President Obama’s job in the White House. Millennials are the future. Helping to vote in America’s first black president reflects the progress and ideals of the young voters.
8. Activism
Activism is huge for Millennials, as it was for generations that came before us. Movements such as Occupy Wall Street and Black Lives Matters are extremely impactful in the 21st century. Occupy Wall Street began September 2011 in New York City. The movement stands against social and economic inequality worldwide, starting with America’s Wall Street financial district. The goal is World Revolution, fighting against the 1% ruling class. With Black Lives Matter, the movement is a fight against inequality as well, but in terms of race opposed to class. The movement began as a way to stand against injustices against black people in America, when Trayvon Martin was post-humously placed on trial for his own murder, while his killer was not held accountable. That injustice has shined a light on a world where black lives are systematically and intentionally targeted for demise. The movement’s goal is to affirm the contributions of black people to the American society, black humanity, and black resilience in the face of deadly oppression. The activism of this generation is not for a moment, but movements that will fight until there is change.
9. Legalize Marijuana
Legalizing Marijuana was just a figment of our imagination 20 years ago, but today it is a reality. California started the trend with legal medical use. Then Colorado and Washington followed with legalizing recreational use, leading to dispensaries popping up, creating millionaires. A chain reaction has occurred as other states have passed legislation ruling on the use of marijuana. Massachusetts joined 17 states and the District of Columbia in electing to allow medical use of the drug. The next step marijuana users are hoping for is the federal government no longer considering marijuana an illegal substance, and the possession, sale or distribution of the drug a crime. That does create a clash, as states have to work around the federal laws to decide how state residents can buy and sell marijuana without being convicted of a federal crime.
10. Legalize Same Sex Marriage
Similar to legalizing marijuana, legalizing same sex marriage is now a reality that would not have been expected a few decades ago. Massachusetts was the first state in America to issue marriage licenses to samesex couples in 2004. Shows such as Modern Family, are beginning to depict Same Sex couples. Modern Family includes one big family split into 3 separate households. One of the households includes a gay couple with an adopted daughter. This show, along with others, shows the increase in the exception of Same Sex love.
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MILLENNIALS PAVING THE WAY
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Marcus Durant, 22
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Pauline Ho, 25
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Gabrielle Churchill, 22
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RE-EMERGING TREND
Photography Gabriel Freites Styling Jordan Maugeri
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A Flash from Fashion’s Past TEXT JORDAN MAUGERI 90s fashions make a comeback… even better than the first time! Overalls, accent braids and scrunchies move aside, and make way for some reemerging fashion trends of the 90s that we are actually excited about seeing again! We know fashion trends are always reemerging- sometimes even better than before. The new take on flannel, slip dresses and track suits are proof! They have been revived, updated and are now trendy fashion choices for Spring 2016. Who could forget the girls and guys of 90210 and their jackets, skirts, vests, and of course shirts, made of flannel. What about Cher from the 90s fav, Clueless, and Legally Blonde’s, Elle Woods, who made simplistic slip dresses anything but simple! We can not leave out The Fresh Prince of Bel Air’s, Will Smith, and his boys in their awesome, oversized tracks suits. If you thought these fashion pieces were cool in the 90s, just wait and see what spring will bring! Phillip Lim, Marc Jacobs, Celine, Calvin Klein, and Alexander Wang have made us fall in love, all over again, with the classic, sexy look of the slip dress. These updated, modern and sophisticated versions rule the runway and are sure to be a staple of every wardrobe for the spring. They can be dressed up or down, worn with heels or boots and are a fun flashback to the 90s! Flannel is not the grunge statement it was in the 90s- today it has reemerged in gorgeous feminine fabrics, and brighter jewel tones. Irregular texture, color matching, and overprint plaid textiles have made this print cool again! Plaid actually keeps being reinvented over and over. Saint Laurent used it in 2013, Altuzarra, Marni, Miu Miu and Alexander McQueen blasted the runways this fall with gorgeous versions of this 90s fad. It can be seen in every must-have for the spring; skirts, dresses, blouses and pants. Saint Laurent even did an updated, more polished line of flannel for spring- just for the guys! Plaid it seems, is a reemerging trend that we are excited to see again and again! Gosha Rubchinskiy, Pigalle and Cottweiler have brought tracks suits into the new millennium in a cool, fresh way! First of all these modernized versions of the 90’s fav are cut slimmer and are much more practical to wear. Gone are the obnoxious velour fabrics, and the over-the-top colors and patterns that we surely do not miss. Athletic gear is the new dress down wear (yoga pants, leggings, compression shirts) and now that it has been reinterpreted for 2016, we are sure it is here to stay. One thing we know for sure is that these 90s remakes are trendy, current and a welcomed blast from the past! i-D THE GROWING UP ISSUE 64
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Photography David Mahone Styling Dominique Holcomb
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URBAN
ATTITUDE
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We Make the Rules Now TEXT DOMINIQUE HOLCOMB Remember when we use to follow all the rules because we were afraid of the consequences? Or when we use to fit in to try to be apart of the “cool” crowd? But now that we’re all grown up, it’s all about bending the rules and breaking boundaries. Millennials today don’t try to fit in. It is more about standing out and being unique. Millennials have cultivated their own way of dressing and living. Having a mind of your own with an “IDGAF” what others think mindset is vital. It is more acceptable to do things the non-traditional way. Observing Millennials and their family life is a quintessential way to spot the differences between generations. There is no longer one view of what the traditional family is. There is no familial norm really, as there are multiple different descriptions that could describe the Gen Y family structure. We lack one distinct family structure, as families nowadays are interracial, same-sex, or single parent households. Millennials live by new rules and new ideals. We will date or marry whomever we want to. Interracial couples were not accepted just a few decades ago due to racist ideals of what a family should be. Now, little mixed raced babies of several ethnic backgrounds can be easily spotted in society. Same-sex couples are now free to marry in all fifty states. Same-sex couples contribute to society by adopting children that need homes or are not wanted by the birth parents, further diversifying what a family looks like. Single parents are not a rare occurrence in this day either, whether single parent households are caused by tragedy (i.e. death) or by option (i.e. divorce or a break up). Mothers, by choice or circumstance, are the breadwinners and head of their households. Single mothers take on the role of mother and father, and vice versa for single father households. Back in the day, one would be shamed for having sex or starting families before marriage. There is less concern about being married before a couple is intimate. People are getting into “situationships” – a situation where they are getting into uncommitted relationships involving sex. Titles just seem to make things more complicated for some Millennials. Within these “situationships” people are getting into incidents where they have children with partners they aren’t fully committed to. This is one reason why single parenting rates have become so high. The occurrence of children born outside of marriage was unheard of centuries and decades ago. Other generations still frown upon these untraditional relationships, but they don’t make the rules, so their opinions and judgments don’t hold precedent. Modern parenting is more lenient than traditional parenting. Parents are not that strict anymore, giving their children more freedom and space to learn from their mistakes. There’s room for debate but back in the day that would not fly. The relationships between parent and child have become far more lax, as Millennial parents want to be different from their parents. They are more about letting their child have free expression. Generation Y is now well on their way to creating a life of their own. They are graduating college and entering the work force under their field of study. Trying to make their stamp on this world, living life the way they see fit. i-D THE GROWING UP ISSUE 98
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Photography Cara Kelly Styling Mi’Kiera Graham-Young
We all have to grow up one day ...
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Millennials. We are the future.
We are next in line to make the rules. We will be different from our parents and generations before us. 109
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THE DAPPER CLUB
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i-Con Miley Cyrus Text Jordan Maugeri
“Destiny-ed” just to be Miley…. Destiny Hope Cyrus was just like any other kid (well, like any other kid whose dad happened to sing “Achy Breaky Heart,” and whose godmother was Dolly Parton) from a small town in Tennessee, even when she was acting with her father (for the first time) in 2001 on Doc, or in a small part in Tim Burton’s movie, Big Fish (2003). In the year 2006- at the age of only 14, her life changed forever. She became an overnight hit after beating out 1,000 other girls for the title role in Disney’s teen smash hit, Hannah Montana. Miley originally tried out for the smaller role as Hannah’s friend Lilly, but was given the lead role, with her father Billy Ray Cyrus, playing her father on the show. Miley became a household name overnight; tweens everywhere wanted to be just like her, and mother’s hoped she would stay a positive role model for their daughters! She was the teenage version of “the girl next door;” bubbly, humble, sweet and she seemed to be very mature for her age. This southern girl’s star was on the rise. Miley’s world became even more chaotic as she began making hit records; many of the songs she had written herself. She toured with the Jonas Brothers and opened for the Cheetah Girls, when she was barely a teenager! By 2008, she ventured out on her own, selling out every concert on her “Best of Both World’s” tour! A film of the tour also was a marketing hit, and Hannah Montana merchandise flooded the market. That same year, Destiny Hope legally changed her name to Miley Ray- ironically, it would only be the start of the jaw-dropping evolution of Miley. In 2008, Miley’s public image started to change after the famed Annie Leibovitz, shot bare backed photos of her for Vanity Fair. Then racy photos were splashed all over the Internet after her email account was hacked. Her movie, “Hannah Montana” seemed to be a goodbye to her alter ego. Some parents were outraged as they watched “Hannah Montana’s” good-girl image start to crumble. After four seasons on Disney, a hit tour, 2 movies, and many #1 singles, Miley left Hannah Montana, and her “innocent teen” image behind. It was her time to grow up! In 2009, at the age of 17, Miley began to literally show a different side of herself. She told the Associated Press that year, “I feel more comfortable dressing with a little less, which is just how I’ve always been. 113
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Now I’m able to do that a little more freely.” In 2010, she released her album, “Can’t Be Tamed,” proving once again that she was not a kid anymore! Her squeaky clean image had morphed into a super sexy style; from her fashions to her lyrics. In 2012, she became engaged to the Australian actor, Liam Hemsworth, and we thought that Miley’s short-lived rebellious stage was over. By the end of 2012, she cut off her long hair, tweeting, “Never felt more like me in my whole life.” Unfortunately her engagement was over; as short lived as her tame behavior, and in 2013 there was no denying that Hannah Montana was a thing of the past! Cyrus’ fourth album, Bangerz was released and became an instant success. Her songs, and videos “We Can’t Stop” and “Wrecking Ball” proved to the world that there was a new Miley in town! If no one was paying attention to the newer, provocative Miley before the 2013 VMA’s and her infamous twerking scene with Robin Thicke, they sure were after it. Miley Cyrus seems to be one of those celebrities that you either love or hate! For someone who started acting at the age of 9, had sold out tours raking in $70 million in ticket sales at the age of 16, maybe the haters should give her a break. Growing up in front of an audience is never easy and honestly, Miley kept up the good-girl image throughout most of her Disney career. At some point she had to grow up; it was only a matter of time. Because of the show, Miley has implied that she had to conform to certain expected behaviors. It has been quite an eye opener getting to see who the “real” Miley is. Only an actress/musician could “express” themselves creatively by shaving their head, and riding a wrecking ball naked! We have seen in the past that shock value sells (Madonna, Britney, Kanye), so why not? Again, whether you love or hate her, everyone knows who she is; it is a job well done. Way to go girl! Even if you do not agree with her life choices, you sort of have to respect someone who flips “the system” the middle finger because she just doesn’t give a shit anymore. Hopefully she keeps shocking us by “expressing” herself… we just want her to be Miley!