MODA April 2016 - Issue 1 - Vol.1
Fashion And Society From the 20's to the 90's
Lingerie Fashion
EDITORIAL Today, when you hear people talking about lingerie, it is when there is a Victoria Secret fashion show or they are selling a new bra, but how did it get to this point? We were curious to see how it all started and we wanted to know if bras or lingerie in that matter were always popular throughout the years. We all know the basics like what the bra does, and how now a days you see people wearing sports bras without a shirt to work out, but we wanted to know if there was more behind it all. For example, did women always wear bras or just on special occasions? Were they made of comfortable material?
All of these questions will be answered in the pages to come in the first issue
of MODA. MODA means, “fashion, style”. You will read about how the decades changed in fashion lingerie from the “burn the bra” to “the rise of sexy”.
With Noor Qadri covering the bra in the 1920’s and 30’s, Diana Soares
covering the 40’s and 50’s, Allison Harbec covering the 60’s and 70’s, and Aliki Alapantas covering the 80’s and 90’s, you will have the full knowledge of the evolution of the bra.
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MODA In the first issue of MODA you will find all about lingerie fashion
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Evolution in Fashion Discover main events of each Centry
The Bodice in Perfection Lingerie trends from the 20's and 30's Wicked Ways of Mae Interview with Mary Jane West
The Pin-UP Decade How lingerie became an important part of fashion
The Iridescent Taylor Interview with Elizabeth Taylor
Burn That Bra Undergarments troughout 60's and 70's
The Rise of Sexy Check out how lingerie changed during the 80's and 90's
The Queen of POP Interview with Madona
The Fashion Prophet MODA interviews Rudi Gernreich
Evolution in Fashion by Noor Qadri
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The 20's and 30's The 1920s years were full with life celebrations and happiness. That because people had tough life during the First World War, between 1914 and 1918; in addition to the Spanish epidemic flu, which both killed many people and caused big depression to the rest. Due to that, in order to forget those tragedies, people tried to be more relaxed and carefree ; they were spending more money on vacations and enjoying life from all aspects; they started to entertain themselves by drinking alcohol, even though it was prohibited at that time, and by attending jazz music clubs. In short, society started to prosper. During this period, 1920s, the influence of comfortable clothing style emerged with designers like, Jean Patou, Coco Chanel, Lacoste and many others; In addition to the art deco movement. In 1925, Paris created an international exhibition of decorative and industrial modern art. During this period, speed geometric lines and forms, and metallic colours were really popular; in addition to orientalism & exoticism. Also, there was an Egyptian revival at that time;
FASHION COLUMN
jobs availability in the market became very scarce; as a result, poverty prevailed and a lot of crimes occurred. At that time, fashion industry was not an exception; there was also a big depression in this industry; due to that, fast fashion began, designers started mass manufacture at very low prices, but with lower quality products. Since their income was very low to buy high quality garments, women were repairing their clothes to keep them in good shape; also, they would sew and create themselves clothing once they needed. However, not everyone was poor, yes poor got poorer, but the rich got richer; rich
people were taking vacations and going to resorts, yet they had to hide their luxurious items from the poor, to prevent steeling. In 1938 was the international exposition of surrealism; at that time, dream-imagery, subconscious, irrational and sexuality were popular. Some of the famous designers during the 30s who represented this image were: Coco Chanel, Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau and man Ray Elsa Schiaparelli. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/516999232204561971/
in 1923 people were using the Kohl as an eye makeup and a lot of embroidery around the neckline; shanghai was considered the Paris of the East or the New York of the West Opium dens. Some of the exotic materials that were used are: the Japanese rice paper fans, parasols, monkey, chinchilla, fur and ostrich plumes. After these changes, the role of the women started to change, which was called the “Roaring twenties”. The style called “Flapper” or in French “Garçonne”, consisted of a woman with short sleek hair, wearing a dress shorter than the average and flat chest; she would smoke a cigarette and wear make-up in public, which wasn’t normal at that time. During the economic depression in 1930s, when the stock market crashed and majority of businesses failed,
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The bodice in perfection
ARTICLE
by Noor Qadri
The 20’s became a time where women style totally loosened as the corsets came off; after world war one, fashion was all about liberation, where women wanted to try new things and have a lot of fun. At that time, women clothing was simple, with a masculine look that was popularized by flappers. The companies Spirella, Maidenform, Twilfit, and many others were all manufacturing bras that did the job of separating the breasts, young ladies preferred a bra that gave a flat shape which would stop the bust from swaying.1;
however, as long as they looked boyish they looked fashionable. In the 1920s, women had several options to wear their underwear in order to achieve the boyish look of flattened and straight silhouette. However, many women in the early 20s were still wearing corsets, also called, bandeau bras for support. They were designed for a slimmer body shape and to slim the bust line in order to show less the form of the body, as much as possible. They had elastic panels to give more freedom to the body in order to move and were worn under the bust through the mid-thigh. They had multiple ribbons to connect to stockings; the bands worn around the legs served to tension everything together into a perfect smooth straight through line. The Fabrics used were Coutil, Silk Brocade, and Batiste for summer Corsets; suspenders were often used of elastic for movement. 2 Furthermore, since the corset sales declined a lot, young women created in the 1920s, the miracle reducing rubber brassiere, which was one of the undergarments that gave the effect of a flat chest. 3 It consisted of strings in the seam held by a shoulder
strap. Bras in the 20s were sold in neutral colors, for example, a pink or peach color silk crêpe. After the Great War, women started to evolve into simpler lines; the flat bust continued to help popularize the “gamine look”. Yet, in 1922, a woman named Ida Rosenthal made a big change in the undergarment industry; she formed a new company called “Maidenform”, where she started producing bras with a bust cup attached with elastic; this kind of bra gave a small lifted effect to the chest.4. Howard Hughes, who is a filmmaker, used his design skills bra for Jane Russell, who was an American Hollywood actress in the 1940s and 1950s.2. We can easily see that this is still shown in today’s society because we still see women wearing bras in general, with any kind of outfit, as a daywear or evening wear; it is available also in these colors and more, with different decorative arrangements on it. The 30’s were known as a time where lingerie started to change with a lightly curvier and more natural silhouette; the body continued on emphasizing on having slim hips. The maternity wear company called, S.H. Camp and Company composed the first bra measurement size charts for women’s breasts and the
company called, Warner bro’s followed their cup sizing charts right after.4 Furthermore, in 1935, Warner Bros are the ones who proposed the cup sizing bra; they introduced four cup sizes called A, B, C and D.1; this was their way of describing the breast fullness, which, till today, we still use it as a cup size measurement. At the beginning of the 30s, Latex was invented; even if rubber had been used in several items, it needed to be converted into a textile fabric in order to use it for creating garments. By that time, bra history changed dramatically when Dunlop chemists were able to transform latex into reliable elastic thread; the yarn was knitted or woven and was developed into a washable fabric; weighty boning and lacing on the corsets were replaced by Latex. A waistband was worn with evening dresses of the 1930s which were showing the back; since at that time help was needed in order to put a corset on, it was advertised, not demanding the help of maids as it’s secured with side hooks and bars. It was worn until the 1960s in place of a suspender belt; it tightened the stomach and held up the nylons. It's interesting to see that many women's underwear till now has in built Lycra that have the same function in a similar way, when they wear slim skirts or trousers.1 The inner waistbands material was made in Rayon, Cottons, woven elastics, and cotton covered rubber. However, the outer garments were made in Rayon, Cotton satins, rayon jersey, Cotton brocade, and in double layer Cotton Voile for summer styles. In today’s society, these undergarments are still being sold in the biggest women’s lingerie retailer, in any shape, pattern or color.
Wicked ways of Mae
INTERVIEW by Noor Qadri
In several ways, Mary Jane West has managed to be one of the best classic American cinema actress from the 20’s and 30’s. Not only she was an actress, but also a singer and a writer. Famous for her intense sex appeal, and movies like “night after night”, her career started when Mae was a Broadway dancer at the age of fourteen, in the revues A la Broadway and hello Paris. Her career in acting exploded when she started playing more adult roles when she was thirtythree, which made her into one of the most famous sex symbols of the late 20’s. Mae had a very healthy life as she claimed that she never smoked nor consumed alcohol in her life. And this is why MODA interviewed this glamourous actress for its first issue.
"money is a great love potion for an affair" MODA- What’s your key personnality for success? MAE- You've gotta have plenty of self-esteem, nerve, and be bold in life. I've been liberated all my life. I always did what I wanted to do. I was an original. I didn't understand then what films meant, every new generation rediscovering MODA- What do you think you. When I first came out is the most thing to an here, I didn't understand how important Hollywood was actress’s success? MAE- First impressions are going to be. what count. It's like when you arrive at a party. That's when MODA- Do you think people take a real look at money buys happiness? you, and if they're impressed, MAE- No, but money is a great that's how they think of you. love potion for an affair. It buys If your makeup fades and you a good bed with clean linens get creases in your dress later, and time to enjoy it all. If you that isn't what they remember. have money, you don't have to worry about it, and worrying MODA- What part in your spoils your looks. career you feel proudest? MAE- It was when I saved MODA - What about what are the Paramount Pictures. They were men, selling out. But my pictures characteristics you look in made so much money for a man? them, they were able to stay MAE- Fire. A man can be short in business during the 30s. and dumpy, but if he has fire, They oughta have a statue of women will like him. I always liked having a lot of men me. At least a bust. around. On a rainy night it's MODA- How do you feel about your acting career? Mary Jane West- Being an actress and a writer both that's the best thing you could be because you can be anyone you want. You just write yourself the part, and then you play it.
like having more than one book to choose from, only better. I never could understand women who would almost die over one man. When you get rid of one, you don't want to sit around moping. When you mope, your mouth turns down; it puts lines in your face. There isn't any man in the world worth getting lines over. MODA- Would you depend on a man to bring you happiness in life? MAE- Too many women wait around depending on men to bring them happiness. I didn't depend on men for mine. I knew how to handle men. I have a code though: No drinking, no smoking, and no married men. There are enough men to go around. MODA – Considering you succeeded into so many things in life, what do think when people consider you as their role model? MAE- I'm no model lady. A model's just an imitation of the real thing!
FASHION COLUMN
Evolution in Fashion by Diana Soares
The 40's http://www.americanforeignrelations.com/photos/television-the-first-television-war-4067.jpg
The 1940s was mainly characterized by the World War II events. The impact war brought changed the world in most of its culture, fashion and events. All things were focused around it. The Holocaust (19421945) involved the killing of Jews, Slavs, Soviet prisoners of war, political opponents, the mentally and physically disabled, and others the Nazis considered impure. The mass murder killed 15 and 20 million lives. On one side there was Germany, Italy and Japan. On the other side were Britain, France, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, India, the Soviet Union, China and the United States of America. The first programmable computer was invented in 1941in Germany. The Germans used it to calculate wing flutter on their aircraft. And in 1942, the Americans invented their own computer. During the 40s in America Marvel Comics introduces superhero Captain, Walt Disney won a 1943 Academy Award for his animated short film Der Fuehrer's Face, and Orson Welles directed the groundbreaking film, Citizen Kane, in 1941. https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/We_Can_Do_It!.jpg
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In music, the 1940s famous musicians like Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra, Ella Fitzgerald and Perry Como shined. People listened to music on the radio mostly, but phonograph players were just started to get affordable for most families.
The 50’s The post World War 2 came with many eager man and women, that wanted to have children thinking that now they were free and life would be peaceful again, and because of that came the “baby boomers”. People started to raise awareness against inequality and injustice during the 1950s. African Americans fought against racial discrimination and during that time, however, the struggle against racism and segregation was more active.
The United States was the most influential economic power in the world after World War II under the presidency of Dwight D. Eisenhower, and the start of the American power in the world started during that time. Television was a major influence in media and advertisement during the 50's, which first reached in the 40s, by the end of the 50's most American homes owned a TV. Tv shows played great part of the entertainment during that era and shows like "I Love Lucy", "The Twilight Zone" and "Little Rascals" were a major hit. In music, rock-n-roll emerged with Chuck Berry, James Brown, Bo Diddley, Ricky Nelson and so long. Elvis Presley became the leading figure in the mid 50's with a new kind of rock, focusing on teen life and love.
FASHION COLUMN
The Pin-UP decades
by Diana Soares
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We know the classic 40's and 50's Pin-UP style, but where did it start? The intimate apparel worn by women were always an
appealing and sexy garment. During the 1940’s many new lingerie styles were introduced and women were less shy to show them underneath their
clothes. The corset had been forgoten, but women still accentuate their waist without it. During the 40's the girdle came to replace the corset. Waists were very small still, hips were padded and shoulders softened with an emphasis on the bust. The small silhouette was achieved with the strong girdle, with attached suspenders to hold the stockings. The most famous bra during the 40's and 50's was the Bullet Bra, known by its pointy ends and cone shape. This revolutionary bra came to break barriers and show that women can be sexy and don't need to hide their breasts. The Bullet bra, was worn by all types of women whose tight-fitting garments accentuated her artificially enhanced curves. During that time, under wire began to be used in bra construction. Celebrities now appeared in ads wearing the new bras to affirm that the "lift and separate" was how a woman should wear.
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The World War 2 presented unique challenges for the undergarment and any other fashion industry. Although, during that time Willson Goggles, a company in Pennsylvania that manufactured safety equipment for manual workers, introduced the plastic "SAF-T-BRA", designed to protect women on the factory floor. Women had to start working since their husbands were in combat, and their occupations shifted dramatically, working in industry and farms. In 1949 Charles L Langs invented Posĕs, the first glued cup bra with no straps nor bands. Langs came up with the idea while watching his wife Mary fidgeting with the straps of her regular old swimsuit. Advertised as both bra and bikini, the frilled cups were backed with a specially developed adhesive strong enough to keep everything in place during even the most intense sports games, but also painless and easy to remove. The bullet bras remained popular into the 1950’s as well, now the difference was that the bras allowed women to add a cup size to their bust. The baby boom also needed maternity and nursing bras, which made the industry grow. Manufacturers introduced new fabrics, colors, patterns, styles, padding, etc. Actresses like Patti Page, Marilyn Monroe, and Lana Turner, introduced the new sexy style that was more defying and free. Bras for young teens and girls entering puberty were first sold during the 1950s. After the war, women wanted to feel sexy again, and seeing Hollywood stars with curves, tiny waists and breast uplift, they tried to imitate. Girdles still existed, but most women and girls opted for one of the newer lighter garments, called Twilfit or Corselette, that was the corset attached to the bra. Bras began be made by the revolutionary nylon, that made them lighter, prettier and easier to wash. The pretty undergarment now was stylish and made in different colors and patterns for different tastes.
The iridescent Taylor http://www.lingerietalk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/ElizabethTaylor_8.jpg
INTERVIEW by Diana Soares
"People who know me well, call me Elizabeth. I dislike Liz." In many ways, Elizabeth Taylor has managed be one of the best British actress from the 40's and 50's. Famous for her intense love life, multiple husbands and movies like "Cat on a Hot Tin Roof" and "A Place in the Sun", her career started when Taylor was cast at the age of twelve, for playing "National Velvet" in 1944. Her career in acting exploded when she
started playing more adult roles when she was eighteen, which made her into one of the most famous sex symbols of the 50's. Taylor struggled with health problems for most of her life. She was born with scoliosis, and broke her back while filming National Velvet in 1944. And that is why MODA interviewed this iridescent actress for its first issue.
MODA - Nice to meet you Elizabeth, Liz, which one you prefer me to call you? ELIZABETH TAYLOR - People who know me well, call me Elizabeth. I dislike Liz. MODA - How do you like your acting career? TAYLOR - I feel very adventurous. There are so many doors to be opened, and I'm not afraid to look behind them. Everything makes me nervous - except making films. MODA - In way you feel that the movie industry changed you? TAYLOR - My god, I had black hair — it was photographed blue-black it was so dark — and thick bushy eyebrows. And my mother and father had to stop them from dying my hair and plucking out my eyebrows. The studio even wanted to change my name to Virginia. They tried to get me to create a Joan Crawford mouth when I first began using lipstick at 15. They wanted, you know, Joan Crawford, the '40s and everything. Every movie star, Lana Turner, all of them, painted over their lips: and I'm sure that some of them had perfectly fine, full lips — but thin eyebrows were the fad...and God forbid you do anything individual or go against the fad. But I did. I figured this looks absurd. And I agreed with my dad: God must have
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had some reason for giving me bushy eyebrows and black hair. I guess I must have been pretty sure of my sense of identity. It was me. I accepted it all my life and I can't explain it. I've always been very aware of the inner me that has nothing to do with the physical me.
Paul Newman? TAYLOR - They were my teachers. Add the women in there and the directors and the cameramen and you have some hell of a school. Thank God, I hope I picked up something!
sex symbol? TAYLOR - I have a woman's body and a child's emotions. MODA - Do you have any addictions?
MODA - Why do you think Taylor - The problem with you got married so many people who have no vices is that generally you can be pretty MODA - Were you always so times? sure they're going to have some free-spirited? TAYLOR - Marriage is a great pretty annoying virtues. TAYLOR - When I was a child in institution. My mother says I England they always used to say didn't open my eyes for eight MODA - How do you face to my mother that I was an "old days after I was born, but when difficulties in your life? soul." I had no idea what that I did, the first thing I saw was an meant, but apparently I used to engagement ring. I was hooked. TAYLOR - You just do it. You force yourself to get up. You frighten grown ups, because I MODA - What is that you like force yourself to put one foot was totally direct. before the other, and God damn I saw my daughter as a baby, the most wearing? it, you refuse to let it get to you. before she was a year old, look You fight. You cry. You curse. at people, steadily, with those Then you go about the business eyes of hers, and see people of living. That’s how I’ve done start to fidget, and drop things it. There’s no other way. Pour out of their pockets and finally, yourself a drink, put on some unable to stand the heat, get out lipstick, and pull yourself of the room. together. She was totally tapping into something that she was seeing that they didn't want touched. MODA You already TAYLOR - I adore wearing gems, accomplished so many MODA - What about men, but not because they are mine. things, what else do you how did you feel about You can't possess radiance, you seek to achieve in life? acting with James Dean, can only admire it. Big girls need Montgomery Clift, Marlon big diamonds. TAYLOR - When people say, Brando, Rock Hudson, 'She's got everything', I've got Richard Burton, Orson MODA - How do you feel one answer - I haven't had Welles, Henry Fonda, and about being considered a tomorrow.
"I have a women's body and a child's emotions."
Evolution in Fashion
FASHION COLUMN
In the 60’s
The 60’s, the decade of change. Change in music, change in political views, change in fashion. Bright colours, shorts skirts, and even tie dye was just the start of fashion in the 1960’s. Just as an example of change, early 1960’s was all about Jackie Kennedy as being the “it” fashion idol, with tailored matching suits and sophistication. Yet, supermodel Twiggy, had taken the place of the current fashion idol as she portrayed a younger
by Allison Harbec
playful mindset to fashion later in the same decade. Many other events had influence 1960’s society into who they were, or what they were living surrounded by. The Beatles’, formed in 1960, had become a sensation, gaining worldwide recognition as the most “influential act of rock era”. 1962, Marilyn Monroe, known as the most popular sex symbols and one of the most worldwide known Hollywood star of the 1950’s, had be found dead. In 1963, the first women in space. Valentina Te r e s h k o va had shown potential in women’s e q u a l i t y. In the
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same year, JFK, the president of the United States, had been assassinated as they were preparing for their next presidential campaign.1964; Nelson Mandela, black nationalist and the first black president of South Africa had been sentence life in prison for committing sabotage against South Africa’sgovernment. 1965; miniskirts appearance, New York City great blackout, LosAngeles riots.1969, Neil Armstrong becomes the first man on the moon, showing developing technology and knowledge for the world. Through out the 60, there were the civil rights movements to achieve equality rights for African Americans. Those world wide known events from the 1960’s had become history for everyone to learn of how the world.
What about the 70’s? The continuation of the 60s, but adding more knowledge, more self-freedom and more impact on history. The 70’s were years that changed the perception of the future into more technological views. Fashion wise; it was revolutionized into a fun and carefree era, mixing fashion elements from the late 1960’s and creating the world of “hippies”. Bell-bottoms, boots and earth tones were all the craze. It was the years of letting go and also to adapt into new things. Many events though the 1970s created such impact on people’s behaviours and knowledge and into the ever so changing world .1970; group sensation; The Beatles, break up. Leaving many of their greatest hits such as “Twist and Shout”, “Hey Jude”, “I Wanna Hold Your Hand” and “Hello Goodbye” as memory of their success. . Elvis Presley; referred to “The King of Rock and Roll”; had many of his successful years active
in the 70s, but shortly passed away in 1977. Technology was further growing as VHRs were introduced in 1972. 1976; apple computer was founded by Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak, creating one the biggest technology hits in history to come. Further more into technology; the first test-tube baby was born in 1978 and Sony introduced the first Walkman in 1979. Creating
further knowledge to the 70’s society’s development.
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ARTICLE
Burn that bra by Allison Harbec
became popular as the increase of technology developed such as washing machines. But as the years passed, this became a less significant importance. One of the greatest influences of the bra’s development in the 1960’s was Rudi Gernreich’s nobra bra. Where this designer gave women garments that freed the body. In 1964, the minimalistic bra was created, a lightweight and sheer bra In the 1960’s, the bra’s had quite some that brought back women’s evolution through out the chest in their natural shapes years. The need for more rather than artificial shapes. durable undergarments It revolutionized the concept of comfort and liberty for women’s bra. The no-bra Bra was available in 3 colours such as powder puff, black and white in sizes no bigger than 34B. It gave the chance for women to become comfortable with their own body and shapes
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Lots had changed from the 50’s to the 60’s. Women started taking risks in their styles and experimented with different fabrics and looks. Mainly because after WWII’s baby boom, the youths dominated the 60’s and wanted the style to become less conservative and more rebellious and edgier.
and to be confident. It was a total change from the 1950’s padding and bulky Bullet Bras as “women looked like women again instead of Sherman Tanks” quoted by the designer. The Wonderbra also became popular in the 1960’s. This underwire brassiere took the place of the then “ unattractive” girdles. Louise Poririer in 1964, created the first natural looking padded brassieres that gave fullbreasted women a chance to have support all while comfort or for even flat chested women to enhance their breasts. Even though it gave women the change to bring up the breast sizes all while looking natural, it was an unrealistic view to the women’s body. Equality had become a great importance in the 60’s. The women’s liberation movement was peeking in those years as women wanted to turn around the stereotypes. American culture took a rebellious turn as the minority groups began to go for equality. There was a huge phase to show a statement that proved a stand in women’s equality. “ Burn that Bra” was
to flat chested look and even the completed natural look of breast, complete opposite but both positively accepted. In 1977, Lisa Lindahl invented the first exercisebra named as the “Jockbra” but later named in the “Jogbra”. It was said she was looking for mores support while exercising, as normal bras didn’t give much support and was difficult to move around with. They created it with the help of jockstraps to hold in women’s breasts while on the move. It was created to restrict movement by flattening the chestcompletely .Limiting any signs of breasts at all. "I made a decision early on that
this was not lingerie," Lisa says. "It was sports equipment, something you needed like you needed your shoes”. This helped women in the 1970 to have no restrictions while exercising, as it started influencing women and men to getting in shape as also increasing popularity in sports as it surely wasn’t before. More and more women were getting in the exercising ways and taking care of their bodies and appearances after this bra first appeared. This bra helped women getting into those routines with ease since normal bras would cause chafed skin and soreness and even the constant bra strap slipping off the shoulders. With this skintight comfortable, thick strapped,non wired bra, women didn’t have to go workout with their “ everyday bras”. Another norm or the 1970’s was the nipple bra or even the no bra in general look. The 1970 were a time where nipples were an appropriate aspect in a women’s look. It wasn’t considered rude or sexual as it may seem in different decades. The nipple bra was based on a actual structured bra but a with a built in nipple. The bra was available in beige, white and black and in sizes from 3236. It was quite a norm as you
could see actresses or even models supporting such bra. Charlie’s Angels and Star Trek were just a couple shows were they demonstrated such style as in many scenes the actresses were styled in such way. The no bra look was specifically from the free spirit generation of the 70’s.Hippies usually supported this; free spirited and sexually liberated women, as they portrayed proudly the long hair and the no bra look. They did not see any harm as being completely free with their bodies. From being flat chested by the Jogbra and the completelycarefree mindset of the no-bra look, these 1970 women saw potential in both looks to be confident and brave in their own skin.
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The 1970 celebrated
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the literal action women took to defend their positions. It was said that not many women did actually participate but a lot supported the idea. It was time for a change, for women to be considered as important as men. Women would take their bras and burn them completely down, then going along their day with no bra on. This comes along with the 1960’s mindset of rebellion as they felt it was time for a change into the better for equality and went through great acts to demonstrate so. At those protestations, women carried along girdles, curlers, bras of course and even high heels that they would through in trashcans also names as the “ freedom trashcans”. It was a movement that offered women to be themselves, natural, instead of stereotyped and molded into shapes and things they were not. Somewhat how many of their previous bras such as the bullet bra and even the 1964’s Wonderbra would push them into unnatural or unrealistic shapes for the women’s body.
The Fashion Prophet http://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2110513_2110512_2110662,00.html
by Allison Harbec
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INTERVIEW Being guided around his social conscience, he designed misunderstood yet legendary creations such as the topless bathing suit, the no-bra bra, and even the thong. Rudi Gernreich’s avant-garde designs were considered to most original and powerful fashion creations of the early 1960’s. The Austrian-born designer started just as a designer for a Los Angeles boutique in 1950, later on opening his own firm, G.R Designs also known as Rudi Gernreich Inc. Creating his own trademark of developing daring contemporary and affordable clothing for womengained him a worldwide reputation. Widely misunderstood fashion prophet, who came up with creation ahead of time, Rudi Gernriech. Featured in the first fashion video “ Basic Black: William Claxton w/Peggy Moffit, in 1966. MODA - Hello Rudi, thank you for coming in for this short interview! RUDI – Thank you for having me, it is always a pleasure. MODA- I’d like to start this interview with a brief discussion of how you started in this industry. For anyone who doesn’t know your background upcoming, we’d like you to share your thoughts and experiences coming along in this business. RUDI- From an early age I was face with fashion but also social and political problems surrounding me. This has given me the inspiration to create garments escaping reality and more self-liberty. I started as just a freelance designer and then partnered with Walter Brass, alos Angeles boutique. Such a great experience! And then in 1964, I opened my own company to create my own creations; Rudi Gerneich Inc. as you all may know.
some of the most daring garments such as the Monokini and the no-bra bra, what made you create such garments? RUDI- I felt that women needed to be freed from binding and structured garments. The no bra bra comes in different shades and sizes for any women to wear. I really wanted to make it convenient for anyone. The idea was just make women into who they really and in their natural shapes insteadof placing and forcing them into the “ideal” artificial shapes.
MODA- Can you explain to us the publics opinions on you and your creations? RUDI- People really payed attention, the message was rarely understood or just understood by a few. I like my clothes very much though and people always expect me to come out with something new in which you can’t always do.I was expected to turn out collections based on Dior and MODA – You’ve created Fath, but I was ready to burst
with new ideas. Fashion isn’t a tragedy, it’s entertainment. MODA – You’re favourite model, Peggy Moffit, who is in most of your garments photographs was showcased in the first actual fashion video again in your garments. How were the procedures and feelings of your creations being showed in Basic Black? RUDI-William Claxton and Peggy were working on collaboration to would show fashion, makeup and hair along with some of my creations in 1966. It was shot all in one weekend, had original music for the soundtrack and there you go; Basic Black. I was completely honoured that they wanted to have my creations in their fashion film, as it also seems to be the first fashion film of the 1960’s
FASHION COLUMN
Evolution in Fashion
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by Aliki Alapantas
The 80's:
When people think about the 80’s the first thing that might pop into their heads is the fashion in the 80’s. They know that fashion was all about colour and experimentation People wore blue mascara and yellow eye shadow, and had quite big hair. 1 People who have not lived through the 80’s even know this because any TV show, movie, or even costume party would represent the 80’s in this manner. Many other events have occurred in the 80’s and have great importance to them. In 1980, singer songwriter from the Beatles, John Lennon, was shot and died. This left a huge impact on the fans and the music industry. The arcade game “Pac-man” is released and is still known today. In 1982, Disney World
opened its EPCOT park. This is still running today and is a fun attraction for all ages. Something that occurred during that year in technology is that CD players are first sold in Japan. In the news in 1984, the Prime Minister of India, Indira Gandhi, was assassinated, and the Soviet Union boycotted the Los Angeles Olympic games. In the following years, Windows by Microsoft’s first version was released, hit movies like The Breakfast Club and Dirty Dancing were released, and the first disposable contact lenses were first sold. At the end of the 80’s, in 1989, the Berlin Wall was torn down. Some things that have occurred in the 80’s created history, while others have developed over time.
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The decade that made us
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The 90's:
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The Great Decade Many things have occurred in the 90’s as well. At the start of the decade, in 1990, Tim Berners-Lee created the World Wide Web. Today, everybody depends on the Internet for anything and everything. Also during this year, Nelson Mandela becomes president of the African National Congress (ANC) after he is released from prison. In 1992, Bill Clinton is elected as the President of the United States. Nobody knows
the exact lyrics but everybody knows the dance and how to shout “Hey Macarena!” In 1993, the Macarena song was released and everybody knows the song and dance and has been a great hit since. In 1994, the Channel Tunnel connecting France and England has been completed and is ready to use, and the Civil War takes places in Rwanda. The great hit TV series “Friends” was first aired in September of that year. In 1996, President Bill
Clinton is re-elected as President of the United States. Two major inventions of technology were invented in 1998. Google was first founded, and the first iMac computer by Apple was created. The 90’s seemed to be the actual start of technology and since then, it has been the one thing most people depend on. This was a decade of numerous of events and changes that people are still aware of today.
ARTICLE
The rise of sexy by Aliki Alapantas
The 80’s became a time where women were body conscious. They always wanted to look their best. They would go to the gym, pump some iron, and liked to have toned bodies. The American soap opera “Dallas and Dynasty” was one of the greater influences of lingerie in the 1980’s. 7 A lot of women preferred to buy expensive items to show income and w e a l t h instead of fulfilling their own personal needs like a real consumer would. Many women in the early 80’s wore bras for support, which soon became
to having women wearing sports bras with or without a shirt. These bras were introduced with elasticized knitted fabrics. 3 We can easily see that this is still shown in today’s society because we still see women wearing sports bras without a shirt when they do yoga, are at the gym, or go out for a jog when it is nice out. Sports bras in the 80’s came in a variety of colours such as orange, blue, yellow, and red. Today, sports bras are available in these colours and more. For example, you can buy a sports bra of any colour, and with any design or pattern on it. With the nice bodies these women had, they looked really good wearing satin Teddies. Teddieswere very popular during this time period, and were comfortable for the woman who did not need any support because the silicone did all the work that was needed. They came in different colours, had a trimming made of lace, had high cut legs, and were shown without wearing a bra, due to the fact that they would often have a cup formation. This cup formation contained a wire and would double up as a bra.
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For special events or to arouse somebody, women went back to wearing basques. This fashion was very popular especially for brides. Brides would wear them under their wedding gowns and the straps were not visible at the neckline. Basques can be worn with or without straps. Women would use these to entertain
their significant other in the bedroom, and they also used them to aid and maintain a nice silhouette. 7 Basques came in different colours and in different styles. All the basques contain a lace trimming on them whether it is around the breast area or throughout the whole front as well as the breast area.
INTERVIEW
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The Queen of POP by Aliki Alapantas
Madonna was a famous fashion icon as she had a huge influence on fashion, especially lingerie in the 80’s and 90’s. People were wearing things that she would wear like scrunchies, leathers, and tutus. She bursted onto the pop scene in 1983. Madonna made the conical bra very popular when she wore it on her “Blond Ambition” Tour. MODA- Your Blonde Ambition tour was a great success and was also the rise of the cone bra. Who designed it? Was it comfortable? MADONNA - The French designer, Jean Paul Gaultier, designed the pink cone bra corset I wore on my tour. He is such an incredible designer. As for the comfort, it was okay. I was still able to move and do the choreography properly.
“Everyone probably thinks that I’m a raving nymphomaniac, that I have an insatiable sexual appetite, when the truth is I’d rather read a book”. For the “Express Yourself” music video, both David Fincher and I worked closely together. The 1927 film, Fritz Lang classic Metropolis, influenced this music video. For the “Vogue” music video, I once again worked closely with David Fincher in directing it. The Harlem drag balls were the main inspirations of this black and MODA- Why did you go through so white music video. may looks like punk looks, hip-hop, MODA- How does it feel knowing that you androgynous, and military looks? I always say, “I am my own experiment. I am are the style icon of the 80’s and 90’s? my own work of art”. I like change and I guess It is honestly a true honour. I have always worked I was just finding myself and seeing what I like hard in my life and I still do. You know, I’m best. I rather live one year as a tiger, than a tough, and I’m ambitious. I stand for freedom hundred as a sheep. That’s why I went through of expression, doing what you believe in, and going after your dreams. When I feel like saying so many wild phases. something, I say it.Knowing that I am the style MODA- What were some of the influences icon of the 80’s and 90’s just makes me happy. you had when making your music videos It makes me feel like I can add it to my list of accomplishments. for Express Yourself, and Vogue?
Sources NOOR QADRI WESTON THOMAS, Pauline. 1920s Fashion History. Fashion-era. 2001-2014. <http://www.fashion-era.com/flapper_fashion_1920s.htm>. SEWING MACHINE GIRL. 1920s&1930s Corsets. Vintage Fashion Guide. August 19, 2010. <http://vintagefashionguild.org/lingerie-guide/corsets-1920s-to-present/> VICTORIANA MAGAZINE. 1920s Lingerie. 1996-2015. <http://www.victoriana.com/Fashion/1920s/lingerie.htm> GLAMOURDAZE. A brief history of the bra! 6 March 2013. <http://glamourdaze.com/2013/03/a-brief-history-of-the-bra.html> HISTORY. World War 1 History. A+E Networks. April 11 2016. <http://www.history.com/topics/world-war-i/world-war-i-history>. BOLAND, Jesse. 1920s Fashion: Style in The Jazz Age. 1920’s Fashion & Music. 15 April 2012.<http://www.1920s-fashion-and-music.com/1920s-fashion.html>. COLLINS, Harper. Mae West. Encyclopedia of world biography.2004. <http://www.encyclopedia.com/topic/Mae_West.aspx>. EBERT, Roger. Mae West Stories. 2013. <http://www.rogerebert.com/interviews/mae-west-stories>. ADS: THE LADIES HOME JOURNAL. «Art Deco Palmolive Women in Lingerie». 1923. 10 ½ by 14 inches. http://www.tias.com/9105/PictPage/1923128748.html. April 11 2016. HARPERS BAZAAR. «Rhythm in Lingerie Beautiful Young Women looking at Ballerina couple. ». 9 by 11 inches. <http://www.tias.com/9105/PictPage/3923223996.html>. April 11 2016. LADIES HOME JOURNAL. «Vintage Real Silk Hosiery».1926.10 by 14 inches. <http://www.tias.com/9105/PictPage/1923101109.html>. 11 April 2016. SCANDALE MAGAZINE ADVERTISMENT. «Women in Lingerie. ».1920s. UK. <http://www.advertisingarchives.co.uk/en/asset/show_zoom_window_popup.html?asset=87521999&location=grid&asset_list>. SCANDALE MAGAZINE ADVERTISMENT. «Kestos advertisement for women lingerie».1939.<http://www.advertisingarchives.co.uk/en/asset/show_zoom_window_popup.html?asset=87523993&location=grid&asset_list=>. UK. KESTOS. « Womens Underwear Corsets.».1930s. UK. <http://pzrservices.typepad.com/vintageadvertising/2009/03/1930s-art-deco-ads-for-kestos-womens-lingerie.html>. MUNSINGWEAR UNDERWEAR. « Womens underwear. » 1921.<http://artdecoblog.blogspot.ca/2007_11_11_archive.html>. November 15 2007. KESTOS. «English Lingerie». 1935. England. <http://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-kestos-1935-magazine-advert-for-the-english-lingerie-kestos-moulds-48266711.html>. 11 April 2016.
DiIANA SOARES http://www.messynessychic.com/2016/03/25/and-then-man-created-the-stick-on-bra/ http://www.npr.org/2014/08/05/337860700/bra-history-how-a-war-shortage-reshaped-modern-shapewear http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2201047/Shapewear-came-Spanx--Forties-ads-reveal-girdles-corsets-hourglass-silhouette.html http://www.beyondretro.com/en/blog/2013/07/04/a-history-of-lingerie/ http://fortheloveoflingerie.com/vintage-guide-1940s-lingerie/ http://www.fashion-era.com/1950s/1950s_5_corselettes_girdles.htm http://www.examiner.com/article/top-10-historical-events-of-the-1940s http://history1900s.about.com/od/timelines/tp/1940timeline.htm http://history1900s.about.com/od/timelines/tp/1950timeline.htm http://www.history.com/topics/1950s http://www.ushistory.org/us/53.asp http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/e/elizabeth_taylor.html http://www.rollingstone.com/culture/news/elizabeth-taylor-the-lost-interview-20110329#ixzz45Gt2M2Rn Ads https://img.buzzfeed.com/buzzfeed-static/static/enhanced/webdr03/2013/2/23/20/enhanced-buzz-25323-1361668405-0.jpg https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/67/bb/2f/67bb2f6e4bafafb6d835c8592c7dabf3.jpg http://pzrservices.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83451ccbc69e2011278dc381628a4-pi https://bygonetheatre.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/lingerie-1950.jpg http://fortheloveoflingerie.com/wpcontent/uploads/2014/06/tumblr_m4atukUVLV1rnlz80o1_1280.jpg
Allison Harbec http://history1900s.about.com/od/timelines/tp/1970timeline.htm http://www.onthisday.com/events/date/1970 http://www.retrowaste.com/1970s/fashion-in-the-1970s/ http://www.retrowaste.com/1960s/ http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/g6495/70s-fashion-in-photos/ http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/547967/the-fashion-moments-that-defined-the-1960s.html http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-history/trends-of-the-mid-1960s/ http://www.ladiesonlysports.com/sports-bra-history https://books.google.ca/books?id=c487w9PuJOgC&pg=PA247&lpg=PA247&dq=1970+hippies+no+bra&source=bl&ots=f8TEU4keFW&sig=qU5sh2n1xmDurt-IQy_ckl1AVcA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwinheXdoYfMAhVEnoMKHT yEAsIQ6AEIQTAK#v=onepage&q=1970%20hippies%20no%20bra&f=false https://mediamythalert.wordpress.com/2011/02/21/meaning-what-all-the-bra-burning/ https://mediamythalert.wordpress.com/2011/09/06/recalling-the-1960s-bra-burning-days-of-womens-lib/ https://sites.google.com/a/lakewoodcityschools.org/womensrights_1960/home/women-s-protests http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G2-3425500647.html http://www.fashion-era.com/bras_after_1950.htm http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/12/12/curated-short-a-claxton-and-moffitt-original/ http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6067/0?t:state:flow=1866a296-1d55-45b3-90ce-b0043887be26 http://www.haaretz.com/jewish/features/.premium-1.540434 https://agnautacouture.com/2012/11/25/rudi-gernreich-misunderstood-fashion-prophet/ https://archive.org/details/pra-BB4225 ADS: The Jobra ad http://treadmill-ratings-reviews.com/blog/jock-straps-for-women-how-sports-bras-are-changing-how-women-exercise/ Black and White Rudi “no Bra” ad http://www.madalynne.com/the-short-history-of-the-soft-bra 70’s ad https://www.pinterest.com/pin/251638697902739895/ “Sea dream collection” ad https://swimwearandlingerie.wordpress.com/2011/08/09/totally-retro-lingerie-ad/
ALIKI ALAPANTAS http://www.fashion-era.com/bras_after_1950.htm6 http://www.conspicuousconsumption.org7 http://angelasancartier.net/brassiere 3 http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/beauty/fashion/a34486/history-of-bras/4 http://totally-90s.com/wonderbra/5 http://www.liketotally80s.com/80s-fashion/1 Madonna cone bra interview http://www.ew.com/gallery/madonna-cone-bra-anniversary/2161648_original the 80’s & 90’s http://www.thepeoplehistory.com/1980s.html2 Interview music video influences http://entertainment.time.com/2011/07/28/the-30-all-time-best-music-videos/slide/madonna-express-yourself-1989/ & http://www.slantmagazine.com/house/article/through-the-years-madonnas-vogueat-25 Interview Bold words are quotes https://www.google.ca/#q=madonna+quotes Hello Boys ad http://totally-90s.com/wonderbra/ The 80’s Ads http://periodicult.com/wp/?p=616 The 90’s Ad http://www.vintageadbrowser.com/search?q=Lingerie+90%27s https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/c1/7d/cc/c17dcc1d6d5db459af1f5e4012379f85.jpg http://file.vintageadbrowser.com/fsvc6eldjl2ygk.jpg