Tailor Mag N1

Page 1

TAILOR




JAMIE B Photography by Sofia Malamute / Styling by Sebastian Kaufmann


Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque, panties de la estilista, Pagina Posterior. Medias Adidas, zapatos Paruolo


Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque.


Top Amores Trash Couture, Falda Proenza Schouler.


Top Amores Trash Couture, Falda Proenza Schouler, Zapatos Lanvin.


Top Amores Trash Couture, Falda Proenza Schouler, Zapatos Lanvin. Pagina siguiente. Vestido Givenchy Hair by Leandro Moreno / Make-Up Fernando Castillos



Usually models are better seen than heard. But model isn’t really the signifier that Jamie Bochert is going for these days. After studying dance as a teenager in New Brunswick, New Jersey, Bochert blew up big in the early ’00s, modeling in every independent fashion rag and for every influential photographer. Her gaunt, sexy, enduringly darkeyed look had a certain Patti Smith authenticity that evoked a version of New York that was quickly disappearing into urban legend. Then Bochert disappeared herself, quitting modeling and taking the next five years to channel her energies into music. The result of that acoustic soulsearching is her stage persona, Frances Wolf, who plays guitar, bangs out hard but mellow songs on the piano, and sings, often to the accompaniment of her fiancé, actor Michael Pitt (who is also front man of the band Pagoda). In 2005, Bochert appeared in musician KimGordon’s film Perfect Partner, which was projected during live shows to interact with the music onstage. Bochert recently returned to modeling and picked up another job in the process, assisting Marc Jacobs during New York Fashion Week. But music is still her top priority. She’s recording songs in the Brooklyn home she shares with Pitt, playing shows around the city, and she even landed a chance gig playing backup for Patti Smith at a concert in Paris. Here, Bochert gets on the phone with Sonic Youth singer and bassist Gordon while at work at Marc Jacobs’s studio.


BY RAD


HOUDANI


Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque. Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque. Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque.


Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque.


Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque.


Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque. Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque. Top Amores Trash Couture, minishorts y relojes Peuque.




JT PART II Photography by Luciana Val & Franco Musso / Styling by Sebastian Kaufmann

Tras el éxito de su primera colección para JT, Jessica Trosman propone un otoño dinámico y transformable. Las inspiraciones son variadas e inconexas. Chalecos propios de una cruzada medieval se entremezclan con detalles couture heredados de Madame Grès. Un ejército de guerreras niponas convive con integraciones textiles que recuerdan a una foto de la NASA. Esta temporada, JT se renueva con camperas biker, chaquetas de corte sastrero y tapados arquitectónicos. El vestido –corto, mediano o largo- es protagonista, al igual que las camisas, reinterpretadas en clave 3D. La minifalda en shantung, lana o cuero aporta juventud y, desde el legging hasta el palazzo, el pantalón se presenta en versiones aptas para todo público. ¿La paleta? Del blanco y negro más sencillo hasta una elegante exploración de los colores tierra (arena, chocolate y tonalidades de verde), pasando por distintas sombras de gris, hielo y marfil. El rojo cardenal también dice presente en invernales acentos, de la mano de toques de dorado y plateado tanto para el día como para la noche. Y, como siempre en los diseños de Jessica, el infaltable negro sobre negro. Las texturas son esenciales en la segunda colección de JT. El cuero, uno de los preferidos de la diseñadora, está tratado a mano y adopta vidas múltiples: desde bermudas hasta chaquetas y vestidos. La lana, cosida enteramente a mano, y el shantung de seda natural retornan para esta nueva propuesta, donde también reinan texturas nobles como el voile, el algodón y la seda.










BACKSTAGE AN INSIDER'S GUIDE Photography by Marco Walker

Whether you're a front row regular or you're attending for the first time, Fashion Week can get more than a little overwhelming. It's a survival of the fittest. So we've enlisted the help of our favorite designers, DJs, journalists, and critics – and a few Paris regulars – to ensure you live to tell the tale.



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