Clandestine Whisky Magazine by Clandestine Whsiky

Contents 06

Bunnahabhain by whisky.tee

14 18 22 28 32

Very Boozy Duchess of Islay Penderyn Distillery Grail Whisky Shop Coquerel Calvados

38 42 48

Fiodh Watches Chapter 7 Whisky

Hercynion Distillery

Le Shuttle

Hello You will notice that this is a much shorter edition of the magazine, making it less demanding to read online. I have omitted my own tasting notes from this edition as my sense of smell has been diminished through a bout of covid. It is unfair for me to taste and write when like this so there will be a bumper section next month - something to look forward to! I was reminiscing today over what a strange industry this is at times. A complete contrast to the wine business, which is so enthusiastic about the press. Writing a whisky magazine you would think distilleries would welcome coverage with open arms. Yet the amount of times I never receive a reply is astonishing. Not from the major players, but small independents that you would think have stock to sell. Life is strange. I have noticed that gaining followers on Instagram is harder this year, and you may even fall backwards if not careful. Has anyone else experienced this? I could reliably predict gaining 30 followers a week yet now it may be in the minus figures. I have put no less effort in. All very odd. In contrast, my TikTok account is growing fairly quickly why not come and join me there - clandestine_whisky_mag.

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A Trip To Bunnahabhain By @whisky.tee

Stood on the balcony, I could see the Paps of Jura in the near distance painted against a cobalt blue sky. The sun was high and warm with the sound of turquoise waves lapping upon the pebbled beach as the salty sea breeze blissfully blew through my hair. With a dram in hand and a few in the belly, I couldn’t help but get absorbed in the beauty that is Bunnahabhain distillery, so I’m sure you can forgive me for getting a little carried away with the introduction.

what we have in place is typically sherried and we don’t deviate too far from that.

I like to predetermine what the next trend is going to be but also what people are not going to do. I like to think outside of the box and do something different. I want to say we are the first to do that, but that can also be tricky as obviously there’s some things that the SWA doesn’t let you do and I’d just like to take the risk and put things into casks Obviously this was no ordinary day…No ordinary trip with the hope that the SWA changes the in fact, as I had been invited to an exclusive two day regulations or just gives us a slap on the media trip to Bunnahabhain Distillery to preview their wrists. I do try and predetermine what exciting programme of announcements and releases other people are going to do, so we can including their 2022 Fèis Ìle bottles, a tour of their brand do it bigger and better. new Biomass Energy Centre and interviews with the distillery team! Has there been anything specifically One of the highlights of the trip was getting to talk to which has inspired the 2022 Fèis Ìle Distell’s Master Blender Juliann Fernandez. The youngest releases? person to ever to be awarded Master Blender of the Year The Fèis Ìle has been inspired by accolade at the tender age of 29. Charismatic, Funny, knowing what our consumers want. extremely passionate and knowledgeable I sat down to ask We have such a loyal fanbase and her a few questions… we have those that come into the shop every year for Fèis Ìle even Do you try to predetermine the style and taste of a whisky you queuing up overnight! We have want to create before its release? customers that will recall old Yes, especially with distilleries such as Deanston. We want to favourites from 10 years ago try and be ahead of the curve, so I want to try and do things that and give feedback on previous are different. For Bunnahabhain, its different because it’s so well releases and it’s about taking established. We already know what we want to do with them and onboard their comments and

“We have such a fantastic portfolio and people know these brands so well”

doing what we know they’ll like, cos that to me is what Bunnahabhain is all about – the people that are loyal to us and come back year after year. Is there anything in the warehouse that is really exciting you at the moment? Yes, with Deanston which is due next year, February 2023. It’s just phenomenal. The liquid is amazing. Deanston malt is so adaptable and so fun. You can literally put it in any cask and it lends itself to any cask maturation, finish, for whatever time. But what is so special about it is, it has that waxy character identifiable as Deanston that you just don’t lose. It’s just a phenomenal whisky to work with.

you’re tasting. When you say a colour to someone, like Red for example, they will start to think of all the things that they’ve tasted that are the colour Red and they can then look for that taste in the whisky. It’s a strange one but definitely works.

Do you think too much importance is put on people having the same tasting notes or even being able to identify flavours when they first start tasting whisky? Absolutely! Tasting notes are so subjective. Prime example was the tasting we did on the pier, that was so spicey but then trying it again in the warehouse was completely different -so soft and mellow. Some people get apples, some get pears. What people’s perception of taste is, is completely different and I don’t think it really matters.

How long did it take you to train your palate, or was it something that you were good at from the start? I think it’s something that I was naturally good at but its also that you need to learn and build on. Every day you are learning, you’re always going to come across flavours and certain notes that you may not immediately recognise. We’ve all got so many different sensitivities, so you are trying to train your palate every day to pick up on these flavours that you’re not as sensitive to. It’s a journey and it takes a while but it’s a nice journey to be on.

“..Every day you are learning”

For me the taste is almost like a journey and it can take you somewhere and if that creates a special memory and takes you to a special place, then that is more important to me than you being able to tell me you’re getting crisp apples and walnuts. We might get different things, but I don’t think there’s an issue with that.

Looking back through your professional career, What has been your favourite job you’ve had? The role I’m doing just now, just tops its for me because everyday is so different and no two days are the same. I have so much free reign to look at all these different cask types and experiment. I’m so fortunate I can go into the warehouse and sample what ever cask I want and create a portfolio and a pipeline of all these new whiskies that are coming out. Its great fun and I absolutely love what I do.

What advise would you give to people wanting to improve their palate in identifying different flavours? I’m very big on Scotch Whisky Research Institute. They have a flavour wheel that they use to talk about their whisky descriptors and when I’ve been training the blending team for example, I’ve been putting the SWI flavour wheel on the wall and I’ll start going through the flavours and what section that falls into. It could be that you’re looking at something Green; I might get it as a certain green and they might get it as freshly cut grass, but both is falling under the one section which is what you want. If you can’t pinpoint a flavour, I’ll then say “Well its roughly in that section of the wheel…”, so if they’re getting a hint of rubber but not tobacco and its falling into the same section my flavours are sitting then it’s down to how people perceive these smells and tastes differently. So, I love the flavour wheel from SWI for that. Also, the use of colour is a really great way to help describe what

What’s been your greatest achievement? This has got to be getting Master Blender of the year. To get it when I had only been Master Blender for a year and a half and 29 years old when I got the award, to achieve that is absolutely phenomenal and without blowing my own trumpet it has come from hard work and it was nice for that to be recognise because every day is a grafted; I get my head down and I get on with it and I try and do the best I can to create phenomenal liquids for everybody who enjoys them. And also, not just my own award but our brand awards with liquids I’ve hand crafted. Having won Master Blender of the year, has this changed how you work? Getting Master Blender of the year did boost my confidence

because obviously people are recognising the work that I’m doing and I’ve won awards for that and seeing awards for the whiskies we do and I’m obviously immensely proud of that, so that does boost your confidence and makes you feel good but at the same time it does put a mountain of pressure on you because you feel like there’s now eyes on you “What she doing to do next?” And, obviously everything we do is about quality and consistency and to never let that quality and consistently slide but that pressure is really on because you know people are essentially watching. It’s hard but it’s also good because it makes you worker harder. What’s the most challenging part of being a Master Blender? Ensuring consistency. We have such a fantastic portfolio and people know these brands so well, so it’s about keeping them consentient and controlling that. There are so many different things that come into play when trying to do this. I can’t control the new make spirit all the time, but I can assess it. I can’t control what they do in the distilleries or the quality of the casks that our cask supplier sends me. I’m relying on them to make sure it’s the quality that I need and that I expect from them. I also can’t control the weather, or how much sherry the whisky takes on, so it’s about keeping that consistency and I don’t think people realise how difficult it is. It’s not just picking up Bunnahabhain 12 year old cask to make 12 year Bunnahabhain and put it into a bottle. It’s absolutely not the case. We could pick casks and they be over sherried and not like the previous batch or same as our standard. So, then we have to start dialling back and ensuring that consistency is achieved. As a woman in the world of whisky are you tired of your sex being the subject of questions or do you feel that it is something that should be continued to be highlighted? Don’t get me wrong I am a massive advocate of women in whisky and there’s not a lot of younger females going into whisky industry, and I would like to change that and be an advocate to try and get more females into the industry. But in all honestly, I don’t think its because they look at it as a male dominate industry. I just think it’s just not an industry that may women have actually thought about but once they join the whisky industry, they absolutely love it. In Terms of being a woman in whisky, I just so happen to be a woman that works in whisky. I’ve never had any discrimination at all and worked with fantastic mentors, males and females alike. My biggest supporters and those who have helped me get to where I am have all been males and absolutely had my back and mentored and supported me, so I don’t think I’ve been treated any differently because I’ve been female. If you can do the job whether your male or female or whatever sexual orientation, why should it matter? None

of these things come into and I do think there can be a focus put on females sometime but there absolutely doesn’t need to be and I’m absolutely bored of it, and it doesn’t need to be discussed.

Bunnahahbhain

VERY BOOZY (@VERYBOOZY) INTE RVIE W DAVID PEARCE

What is Very Boozy all about? Veryboozy Media & Consulting is all about helping companies succeed. We have four main areas of focus, the first two are centred around social media. We offer packages for hosted content on @veryboozy Instagram or we can create content for customers to post on their own social media. The third thing we do is Instagram Giveaways, I’m constantly telling my clients that it’s one of the most inexpensive advertising you’ll ever get. Be sure you check out our latest giveaway to see what we’re doing. We’ve got some great giveaways coming up especially for my whisky friends at the end of May. And lastly we are consultants for Event Management, Distribution and Brand Representation. We’re launching a new service program in the beginning of May to help businesses get more sales by retaining us to work on their behalf for the price of a good cup of coffee per day. Take a look of what we have to offer at www.veryboozy.com What is your first memory of whisky? My first good memory was while I was staying on the Isle of Mull back in 2014. I stayed in a castle on the coast just outside of Tobermory and they had a large selection of single malts to sample in the evening’s. There was a doctor from Hong Kong also staying and as we spoke one night in the library he introduced me to some of his favourite scotches. Long story short, once I tried the Dalwhinnie 15 I was hooked. It was one of those moments you never forget and a couple of weeks later on my way to Edinburgh I actually stopped at Dalwhinnie and sampled a few more and took many bottles home in my suitcase to Canada.

Being Canadian, do you have a preference for Canadian whisky or are you just as happy to enjoy a Scotch or Bourbon? My preference is scotch and Irish whiskey but there are a few Canadian whiskeys I quite enjoy. I haven’t found a bourbon yet that has hit the mark but I’m always open to suggestions. What Canadian whisky distillery do you love that readers may not be too familiar with? Being Canadian hockey is in our blood as everyone knows and some people might recognise the name Wayne Gretzky as one of the best hockey players of all time but what they may not know is that he makes Wine, Beer and exceptional Whisky. My favourite is their Ice Cask, it’s smooth we’ll balanced with a touch of spice that Rye Whisky is known for. I’d put that up against any scotch or bourbon and although we can’t get it here in the UK yet, know that I’m working on it. What has been the best tasting you have attended and what did you try? ’ve attended many since my scotch induction of 2014 and as I belong to a worldwide fraternity which seems to have a connection with whisky it’s been very easy to sample some very unique drams. One tasting that stands out was back in my hometown of Oshawa in Canada, my fraternity held an open tasting meaning we could invite guests outside of the order. My father attended and a few friends and although the scotches that evening weren’t the most unique I’d ever had the company was the best which makes the experience the best. A few highlights were the Oban 14 and the Glengoyne 25.

What is the oldest whisky you have ever had? I think the Glengoyne 25 was the oldest I’ve had possibly, I’ve had some unopened 12 year olds from the 1960’s but not sure if that counts. How many open bottles do you think you have at home? In my line of work it does vary but at the moment I have seven. I tend not to save bottles, I like to enjoy them. Are there any particular distilleries you would love to visit or regions? I would like to get back to Scotland and visit some distilleries near Inverness, but nothing in particular. How is the whisky scene here different than to North America and Canada? Canadian whisky’s up until the last ten years were more the mixing type and not enjoyed neat. But the culture of creating whisky’s that should be enjoyed neat has been gather momentum and because of that there are some new distilleries popping up with some great offerings.

Do you have your eye on particular bottles at the moment to buy? I’ve been enjoying a more smoky dram lately which I never used to like. Things like Bowmore, Lagavulin and Ardberg are now in the rotation a lot more and especially paired with a nice cigar. I’m researching new scotches with that flavour profile at the moment. If any of the readers would like to help me with suggestions I’d appreciate it. They can contact me on my Instagram account @veryboozy. You offer various products don’t you through your design studio? Yes Revolution Design Studio is a place where I use my photography and artwork to design life accessories. My partner also has her hand in the creations and we only sell items that we ourselves use or would buy. We have a range of tech products such as phone cases, Apple Watch straps as well as beautiful leather wallets and purses. But where we really shine and have gone wild is in the Mens wallet’s, Umbrellas and our Flasks. We were in gift guides this past Christmas and have had many great reviews. Check out www.revolutiondesignstudio.com

DUCHESS OF ISLAY

Islay Wars - The Full Story @DUCHESSOFISLAY

“PETER MACKIE, OR ‘RESTLESS PETER’ AS HE WAS KNOWN, HAD A TASTE FOR VENGEANCE”

Islay is known for its rich illicit distilling history, where casks of whisky were floated out to sea on ships in Lagavulin Bay and sold to smugglers by the moonlight. As the government cracked down on illegal distillers, a new era was born and that’s where our story begins… Licensed merely one year apart Laphroaig (est. 1815) & Lagavulin (est. 1816) began as friendly neighbors. The owners of the new distilleries even shared the same last name ‘Johnston’. In 1852, John Graham was the owner of Lagavulin and a young Peter Mackie was sent to learn the art of distilling from him at only 23 years old. Peter Mackie, a legend in whisky history, eventually took over ownership. He was also acting as an agent for Laphroaig. At this time, due to an old contract, Lagavulin had been using most of Laphroaig’s whisky production in their blended whisky (since as early as 1847). They were paying under market value, making it extremely difficult for Laphroaig to market themselves as a pure malt. Laphroaig couldn’t find a way out of the agreement with Lagavulin, so when Ian Hunter took ownership of Laphroaig he fired Mackie & took their case to court. The contract details are unclear, but the fact that Peter Mackie was furious about it, is not. In 1907, after a bitter legal battle for rights to it’s own whisky, Laphroaig won, but the troubles were just beginning to unfold. Peter Mackie, or ‘restless Peter’ as he was known, had a taste for vengeance. One night Mackie was toiling away at Lagavulin, the

wounds of defeat searing and raw. He poured himself another large pour of whisky. As he added a few drops of water, a brilliant, evil idea bloomed... The next day he called together a group of Lagavulin workers and punched his fist into his hand and said: “Stop the water source, stop the whisky. STOP THE WATER SOURCE. STOP. THE. WHISKY!” Later that night, as the locals slept, stones were placed in the Kilbride Stream diverting Laphroaig’s water source. Laphroaig was paralyzed. No water = No whisky. Once again they took their case to court to gain back the water that gave them the liquid gold we all know and love. Thankfully they won, but Mackie’s obsession with Laphroaig grew with each incursion. At this point, he had been fired from Laphroaig, lost the contract rights to their whisky, & attempted to block their water source. One can only assume that in the late evening hours, after business for the day had ceased, he would sit swirling his whisky glass, and mull away at ways to get his final revenge. He had been inside Laphroaig distillery, he knew the people, the production process, he could even picture running his hands along the subtle indentations of the copper stills.

(PHOTO)

The next day he awoke with a plan, using his knowledge of Laphroaig’s distillery he would build an exact replica inside Lagavulin. In 1908, the Malt Mill was born. Mackie pilfered Laphroaig’s distillery staff, including their brewer, and

built stills identical to Laphroaig. To put the final nail in their coffin he even used the same water source he had once tried to stop. As hard as Mackie tried, he could not copy the characteristics of Laphroaig’s whisky & eventually he gave up. He worked to refine the Malt Mill’s mash bill to add to his own blends such as White Horse & Mackie’s Ancient Brand Scotch. Malt Mill officially closed in 1962, 38 years after Mackie’s death. Peter Mackie may have been a villain to Laphroaig, but he was actually a legend to the Scotch whisky industry, particularly blends, like the legendary White Horse. At some point a German distillery attempted to market a blend called Black & White Horse. Mackie, perhaps learning from his battles with Laphroaig, sued & won. He had his hand in many things including other distilleries, agriculture, and anthropological voyages. Thus ends the storytelling of the Laphroaig vs. Lagavulin feud. Sláinte! 🥃

@DUCHESSOFISLAY

PENDERYN DAVID PEARCE VISITS THIS ICONIC WELSH DISTILLERY

Ysbryd Cymru: Making new traditions at Penderyn Interview by David Pearce Article by Martin Raymond

Ysbryd Cymru: making new traditions at Penderyn In the diverse world of world whisky there is a certain logic to a spirit from Wales. Scotland and Ireland don’t have the monopoly on Celtic culture. The ancient Atlantic seaboard heritage that runs from the Hebrides down through Ireland, Wales, Cornwall and into Brittany and Galicia is still vibrant. Old connections that are expressed through language, music and the distillation of grain spirits. That and the ability, shared across all these territories, to tell a very good tale. There are few things more important in the whisky business than a good story. And, as few tell a tale with as much verve as they do in Wales, the long absence of a fine Welsh whisky standing tall alongside its Celtic cousins seems a bit of a mystery. ‘Ah,’ says Stephen Davies CEO of Penderyn Distillery which sits on the foothills of the Brecon Beacons National Park, ‘that was one of our problems at the start. The image of Welsh whisky. All people knew of distilling here was imaginative entrepreneur from Brecon who bought in some Scotch, added a few mountain herbs – just like the monks did, apparently, and sold it on as Welsh Whisky. After

the Scotch Whisky Association took him to court, he rather regretted his innovative, not to mention illegal, approach. But it left a bitter aftertaste as far as the idea of whisky from Wales was concerned.’ It’s a negative image that Penderyn, with its seventy plus International Gold Medals and numerous Double Golds, has comprehensively overturned. The Penderyn range represents a brand where product, design and innovative marketing combine in a way that is studied by lots of other start-ups in the sector. Penderyn is a great example of how to build a brand from scratch. ‘Less than scratch,’ adds Stephen. ‘Thanks to the herb infused Scotch, the credibility of Welsh whisky was less than zero. Penderyn started life when Alan the Glan - Alan Evans who ran The Glancynon Inn not far from here – and a few pub regulars started to distil whisky. In fact, 14th September 2000 saw the first whisky, proper whisky, distilled in Wales in a hundred years. A tradition reborn. ‘By 2004 Nigel Short saw the potential of the brand, given additional investment and some management direction. He invested and brought me along. I was very keen to get involved. I had been introduced to single malts by my father. Highland Park, Macallan, the brands that were around at that time. There seemed

to be something elegant about these spirits, something slightly mysterious that repaid learning a bit more. ‘We set to work. We knew the product was a good starting point, but the involvement of renowned whisky expert, Dr Jim Swan, helped to establish our whiskies. I had the privilege of travelling around the world with Jim. He had huge presence. Quietly spoken, but he could hold a room of people. He introduced the cask strategy we have here – bourbon, from Buffalo Trace, to mature, and then finished in Madeira casks. It is non-chill filtered, naturally coloured and bottled at 46%. While a Director of Penderyn, Jim also helped establish distilleries in Taiwan and in England. His loss in 2017 was a very difficult moment for us as friends and for the company, but it is a testament to his skills and character that he trained the distilling team here so well that we have gone on to win as many awards after his passing as we did when he was with us. He is still a towering figure in this business. But as everyone in that business knows, a brilliant product is not enough. You need great marketing too. ‘We were also lucky in our designer. Glen Tutssel is a brilliant designer who has worked with huge brands. But he is Welsh, and working in Wales with a great Welsh brand brought out the best in him! He established a look that is contemporary and vibrant. He also sadly died a few years ago. ‘Our marketing went in the opposite direction of all the text books. Whisky brands are supposed to establish themselves in the On-trade first, but we hadn’t the budget for that. So, we started with the customers themselves. We got out on the road. We went to shows, tastings, talking to customers, listening to their reactions – which were invariably positive – getting in front of people as often as we could. And word-of-mouth, the original social media, did its work. ‘We then took this positive response to Tesco who took a chance with us - initially in Wales where they had a good footprint, and then in England and currently in six hundred stores. ‘There’s no one thing that brings success, you have to do it all. The home market is important to us, Wales and the rest of the UK, as is the export market. People are drinking less, but they are drinking better, they’re looking for quality and for something different, all of which has worked to our advantage.’ The Penderyn range reflects a growing confidence in the product and an understanding of the consumer and market trends. ‘Our core offer is around our Madiera finish – the house style. But in our Gold Range at 46% abv we also have Sherrywood, Peated, Portwood and Rich Oak from re-charred barrels. In addition, we have released small batches, experimenting with Australian, Grand-Cru and Rum barrels. We also have the Dragon range at 41%.

We have both the original Penderyn still (and a replica), and a pot-still which gives us flexibility in marrying spirits. We don’t blend here – we marry! The Penderyn still produces a light and delicate spirit, and we can add body from the pot-still – while remaining a single malt because it is distilled under the same roof. We love to play tunes with our spirits.’ While Penderyn respects a tradition of Welsh distilling that goes back centuries, like all successful distilleries Stephen and his team look forwards not back. ‘We work with a wide range of influencers. In fact, we’ve embraced the democratisation of whisky critics and commentators. Not all, but some established writers have had difficulty seeing beyond Scotland. There is a tendency to judge all whiskies against a Caledonian benchmark, but not everyone. But we’ve found on-line influencers to be much more open minded and keen to experiment. It helps when you have confidence in your product of course.’ Much of that confidence comes from the work of the distilling team. Which at Penderyn is 100% women. Stephen’s response is mixed when I mention this, proud of the team, but also unsure why it should be unusual. ‘It’s strange that in the 21st century that a women distilling team is noted. It shouldn’t be. The women who have these key roles here are there because they were outstandingly the best in interview and in nose and taste tests. We didn’t hire them because they were women - they were the best people for the job. They were scoring over 90% in nose and taste tests. Gillian MacDonald, for instance, came to us on a government employment scheme back in the day. Showed real talent, was mentored by Jim, and is now working at Glenmorangie.’ Perhaps in this respect whisky is catching up with wine, where the superiority of women in tastings has been the norm for many years. Penderyn is taking an equally fresh look at its targeting in its marketing too, shaking away the tweedy, middleaged male image that still clings to some parts of the whisky business: ‘Our whisky has always been popular with women. It’s light and accessible, so is popular with younger drinkers and drinkers of all ages who are coming to whisky for the first time. We recently did a special bottling for Women Who Whiskey.’ We are a long way from spicing up bottles of Scotch with a few Welsh herbs. Penderyn has re-established a whole tradition in Wales and while creating a brand that is innovative on all fronts. A brand that has a fabulous story, reflecting it’s Celtic heritage, and worthy of the best stories of the ancient Welsh bards. Iechyd da!

In Conversation With Jen from The Grail Whisky Shop

You own a whisky shop - what a dream! How did that come about? It is a dream to have our very own shop! Having worked in distilleries and whisky shops together for a number of years it seemed the next logical thing to do! We both love whisky of all kinds and have lots of fun working together. We make a good team and thought we could grow a successful business together, and most importantly have fun doing it! What would you say are the most popular whiskies in the shop? The most popular whiskies in the shop tend to be our most local distilleries like Deanston, Glengoyne and Loch Lomond as we have lots of visitors to the area and they often want to try and buy something made locally. The other popular drams would be the ones we rave about like Ledaig as we both find it nostalgic having worked at the distillery, Ardnamurchan as we think it’s the perfect sharing whisky (its got a little bit of everything!), and Glen Scotia as for its quafability! In short the popular ones are the ones we like as we are enthusiastic about them! We are also fans of independent bottlings that are a wee bit different. Do you have to endure men who won’t take advice from you or ask for the manager? What is your comeback to them? Not so much these days, or maybe we just don’t notice it any more. They do love to tell us lots of thing we already know or try to correct us with wrong information. If they say they don’t belive women can drink whisky we usually we just tell them about all the whiskies they love that are made by women! What distilleries would you love to stock that you currently don’t? We’d love to stock more from Ardbeg, as Jen is a particular fan! It would be great to be able to regularly stock Springbank and things like Daftmill and Torabhaig and obviously nobody can at the moment but hopefully we will all be able to in future! We do stock lots from smaller, independent distilleries like Ardnamurchan and Lindores Abbey as well as independent bottlers like North Star and LBD which we love and find they do very interesting expressions. You offer a number of tastings - tell me about those and in particular the in shop one when allowed. We used to do a lot more tasting events out and about but covid obviously curtailed that! We switched to online events run on Zoom sending out tasting packs

which were really popular over the last 2 years and we gained a wide audience from all around the UK and even further afield! Now we are able to do in person tastings again they are starting out small. At the moment we are running in-person/virtual hybrid tastings so that our customers can choose how they attend. We have a different theme for our gin and whisky tastings each month. Themes have included “A Tour of the Islands” “A Tour Through History”, “World Tour” and “Blind Tastings”. We absolutely love choosing the line-up, linking them all together under the theme and researching each one before presenting them to the group. What has been the best question you have been asked at a tasting? Sometimes we find the best questions are the simplest ones that we haven’t thought to explain to beginner whisky drinkers, like “what is the definition of a single malt?” or “what makes a Scotch whisky Scotch?” We also like it when people dare to ask if they can add ice or a mixer. It’s something we usually wouldn’t think to do ourselves normally with a single malt (apart form experimenting with cocktails) but we always say we are #whiskygeeksnotwhiskysnobs and we want people to enjoy their whisky the way that’s best for them. We can then then explain the merits of adding ice or mixing to help them best enjoy their drink to suit their palate. And the most funny one? One we get every now and again that makes us laugh is “I tried a whisky a few years ago and I really liked it. I can’t remember what it was called but it started with a “G”. Would you know what it is?” You walk into a whisky bar - what are you ordering and do you go back for the same again or onto something else? I think both of us would be sure to order something we haven’t tried before but maybe something we’ve heard a lot about, not always necessarily good things sometimes a bad review will make us curious! Rachel at the moment is into the sherry bombs, in particular glenallachie so I think she’d be choosing something from there. I’d probably go for something a bit more robust as I like an intense flavour. Maybe for the first dram something lightly peated then I’d move into the more heavily peated drams. No, we would be unlikely to drink the same dram twice in an evening! We will always make the most of an opportunity to taste new and unusual whiskies!

What is your most prized bottle of whisky personally? Neither of us tend to save whiskies for very long, we buy them for drinking! Having said that Rachel has a bottle of Deanston 20 year old oloroso cask that was released when we were both working there. Jen’s is long gone and it was delicious!!! Jen has a collection of 3 bottles saved for sentimental purposes. A bottling of speyside single malt by Gordon and macphail for Spirit of Callander when it first opened (the shop we are in now that we worked in previously) and then the 2 exclusive bottlings we’ve had for CDC; a Glenscotia 11 and a Glenallachie Duncan Taylor Octoave 10yo. They are nothing too special to anyone else but as a collection they are nice to have stitting together as a wee archive. Hopefully these will be added to! What distillery would you most like to visit? We have visited loads of distilleries together and separately. We do want to get round all the Scottish ones but probably we’d be most excited to visit a distillery somewhere more exotic. Hampden rum is on the list for sure, maybe some more distilleries in the Ireland and in the USA. We’d love to visit some in Japan and India too. Kavalan in Taiwan would be cool! We might need a few years! What is the most underrated whisky you have in the store or the best value for money? The Ileach Cask Strength for a peaty, Islay dram is excellent. You can’t be £46 for a 58%abv Isaly! It’s got notes of toffee, bananas, peach and light whispy peat smoke. The Adelphi Blend is also incredible value for money. Its lovely and rich with fruity notes and wee a hint of smoke. A great sharing bottle or whisky cabinet staple! http://thegrail.scot

CALVADOS

Coquerel

“APPLE TIES: THREE GENERATIONS AND A NORMANDY ICON

Apple Ties: Three Generations and a Normandy Icon. Le Vieillissement is what they do in Normandy. Maybe it’s just me, but that sounds just a bit more exotic than ‘maturation process.’ In fact, most things sound more exciting in French. Which is why it’s surprising that La Belle France has been a relative late starter in the world-wide spirits boom. ‘Relative’ is the word working very hard in that sentence, of course. Many might argue that France invented fine eating and drinking, and no one is going to dispute the noble history of cognac - arguably the emperor of grape-derived spirits. And yet... The comparative neglect of calvados is doubly mysterious. There are few products with such a long heritage and such deep roots in the terroir as the apple-brandy of Normandy. Pierre Martin Neuhaus knows all about the heritage - and quality. His family has been involved in turning apples and pears into fine spirits since 1937. In that time they have won more than 100 medals. He brings a sharp, fresh marketing eye to calvados. Pierre understands that tradition has to go beyond misty nostalgia and must be channelled into 21st century design, distribution and communication. ‘There are 300 plus calvados producers in France. But five of us produce 92% of the entire output. We are the third largest – the other two aren’t independents and there are only about six or seven distillers who put any great effort into marketing. All of the calvados producers added together don’t amount to the output from a single medium sized Scottish distillery. ‘The spirits sector in France is not huge. Balvenie/

Glenfiddich alone produce about half the bottles of the entire cognac industry. And the cognac industry is forty times bigger than the calvados business!’ Small. But exquisite. Production may be limited, but the potential is infinite. Do not think for a second that Pierre is apologetic or modest about his product. He is steeped in the history of calvados. His grandfather started the business in the 30s and established the distillery in the chateau through the difficult years of the early 1940s. His father took the business under the wing of United Distillers in the 1990s, running UD’s French operation for six years before buying the distillery back in 1996. The process is tied to the rhythms of the seasons in the Normandy countryside. ‘We have three column copper stills. But production starts with the cider-bill. Like any other type of distilling the basic choices are made right at the beginning. We have 320 or more apple and pear varieties to chose from. We chose a blend of four types to get the correct balance of fruitiness, acidity, bitterness and sweetness. We use the same cider-bill for each distillation. ‘Our apple and pear crop uses different varieties to extend the growing season. We have four to six weeks blossom and the crop itself lasts three months. This is insurance against the weather – frosts or hail of rain can mean a loss of 5% of the crop. But extended over a long period like this, it’s less disruptive.

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‘The apples go into the fermentation process as soon as they are gathered, and we add as the fermentation goes on. We are required by regulation to ferment for a minimum of 21 days. But we ferment for 60-120 days.

We are allowed to use yeast – but no one does. So, the fermentation is aided by the sugars from the new apples we add.’ Then, after distillation, comes Le Vieillissement. It won’t be a surprise to learn that there not a little romance associated with the provenance of calvados barrels. ‘Le Havre was the great port of entry for spirits from around the world. Port, sherry, rum from Martinique – all came through Le Havre in barrels before being bottled at the port. So many barrels! They were given away. That’s all gone now. Regulations, strikes, containerisation – all that trade moved away from Le Havre to the mega-ports of Rotterdam and Antwerp – but the barrels remained. What we do now with our different cask finishes is a continuation of that tradition. ‘Calvados retains its original fruit flavour – it’s never overwhelmed by the cask. The taste is enhanced, not lost. The taste is so fresh, fruity, crisp that even a port or rum cask will not crush the apple flavour. ‘We’re big on casks! The interest we take makes us more like coppers than distillers! We’re now selling our calvados casks to Irish and Scottish distillers.’ The single cask offers from Distillerie Coquerele is one of the ways that Pierre is transforming the image of his product. ‘Each cask is subtly different - influenced by the cask itself or even where in the cellar it was stored. We focus on the uniqueness of each one. Perhaps it’s a legacy of our time with United Distillers that the culture of the single malt Scottish whisky producer rubbed off on us. We aim for transparency in age and finish. The old signifiers – XO, VSOP - can be confusing and a bit old fashioned. We have been bottling at 31, 22, 24, 15 years. Breaking away from the standard ages. Why not? If it gives the customer a unique experience.’ From Pierre’s modern marketing-orientated perspective, Calvados is hugely under-valued as a spirit. ‘The local spirit market in France is underdeveloped as a whole,’ he says. At this point I’m tempted to say – but the wines … the wines! And maybe Scotland and Ireland might have a different sort of spirit industry had they also had the best wines in the world. But I digress. ‘We produce gin here too,’ Pierre continues. ‘Our distributors tell us we are the top gin on their books. All that on a modest 30,000 bottles a year. In France we like our rum – but it still not a huge sector. Cognac, of course. But compared to whiskey, worldwide it’s not big. We have 120 whisky distilleries in France now but, again, most are small craft

producers. ‘Calvados has a lovely strong tradition. We are so close to the soil, to the region. But that leads to local production for local markets and a neglect, sometimes, of the global market. ‘The packaging and labels of most calvados producers tend towards the traditional. Indeed, a few look like something you’d buy for grandad to remind him of being in Normandy in 1944.! I exaggerate - maybe from a holiday in France forty years ago. There’s nothing wrong with the traditional, but it’s not in the same league as packaging from top UK and US whisky producers who can blend heritage with history. Calvados labelling needs to be more distinctive. We’ve learned much from producing gin. People have little loyalty in the gin market. They want to collect different products – often based on bottles, labels and packaging. We need to reflect what customers want. ‘What we have to do as a sector is get out on the road. Take our product to trade shows, cocktail shows – remind the trade and the public of just what a unique and fine product we have.’ Pierre and his family have taken calvados a long way from the bad old days when poor cider was converted into spirits. Calvados from Distilerie Coquerel is nuanced, distinctive and available in as wide a range of iterations as any on Speyside. As well as having a fine spirit maturing in the cellars, Pierre has a clear vision of how modern marketing could transform calvados in a way that truly reflects its noble heritage and realises its huge potential.

https://calvados-coquerel.com

FIOD WATCH Interview by David Pearce Article by Martin Raymond

Time is one of the key ingredients in whisky. Whether it’s the mysterious micro nuance of time spent in the mash or the still – or long years slumbering in the cask. Then there’s the geological time – the eons it took to create the rocks that filters the water that soaks through the peat… I could go on. It’s fitting then that Michael Youmans had a vision that would bring whisky and time together.‘I wanted something that connected all the rich heritage of Scotland – the landscape, the whisky, the long tradition of making things,’ says Michael. The result is Fiodh, a watch company like no other. Let’s start with the name, and a language lesson. ‘Fee-och,’ Michael instructs me patiently. ‘Gaelic for wood. But, you know, you can pronounce it any way you like. People said – “maybe not so clever having a company name that no one can pronounce.” I disagreed completely. It reflects where the watches are coming from – literally and culturally. And it’s a great conversation starter.’ Fiodh watches are beautifully and lovingly crafted from whisky casks. For a product that starts life in deep time, it’s fitting that the last residues of whisky become part of a machine for recording the human version of time. Michael comes from a family tradition in making lovely

DH HES

but functional things. ‘My dad, who passed away in 2015, was an engineer, a draughtsman who worked in the shipbuilding industry on the Clyde. He encouraged me into the whole strange and magical world of making things. Creating something from nothing. ‘I did my Master’s in Product Design at the University of Strathclyde, and, like everyone else, went through the fairly dispiriting process of looking for a job. But I thought, you know what, maybe I could do something on my own. I was fascinated by the idea that something that had once held gallons of spirits could become something that you could wear on your wrist. A sort of miraculous transformation.’ No big fat bank loans for Michael. No helpful, if slightly menacing, investors. He started out with not very much. ‘Skint! I saved up my Universal Credit to buy a watch, a barrel and a sketchbook. That’s how I got going. I took the back off the watch to see how it works.’ Isn’t that how all engineers start? Getting the back off to see how it works! ‘I worked out how the watch was made, then I started prototyping. I paid the University £20 a month to use their machines and experimented. Some weren’t great experiments. You have to learn how to stop the hands falling off. Wood isn’t like metal – it’s a living thing, it’s always changing. Which is its unique attraction – but it calls for some smart engineering. ‘I carried everything around in a shoebox. Revising, tweaking. But finally, I had working prototypes. I sold three to family members and that was me up and running. For Christmas 2018 I made 100 watches. It wasn’t without sacrifice. I slept on an airbed in the studio, working every waking hour to complete the batch. But I did it, and the company started to take on momentum. ‘I got a feature in the Herald, I then won the Scottish Edge Award which gave me £10,000 and enabled me to move into a new studio. I was really in business.’ Then the world stopped for two years. ‘The pandemic caused a lot of uncertainty,’ says Michael, with admirable understatement. ‘But I kept going.’ Having developed a high-quality product and established the brand, Michael turned to more broad strategic questions. ‘My initial customers were individuals, but I realised that collaboration should be my focus in the next stage of the business. ‘I spoke to Glen Scotia in Campbelltown first. The result was a diversification of product and sector. I built wall clocks from the ends of the barrels and personalised them for the client. It’s a perfect corporate gift for agents, stockists or suppliers. ‘Glen Scotia ordered 101 clocks. They required them to be distributed to nine countries round the world. Another sharp learning curve. I had to become an instant expert

in export arrangements for Israel. The changing arrangements for the EU at that time weren’t exactly helpful either. ‘But the experience was transformative in terms of both product development and opening new markets. I recently went to Isla and Jura, speaking to distillery managers about possible collaboration – either stocking branded watches in their gift shops, or looking at more involved collaboration.’ Michael has come some distance from carrying components and dreams around in a shoebox. He’s now facing the dilemmas encountered by all small start-ups with great product focus and big ambitions. When Michael says his watches are hand-built – he means it: ‘I’ve got to balance expansion against quality control. I still make the watches myself. The movements are electronic and come from Switzerland, but I’m keen to look at sourcing high quality mechanical movements. Everything else is made on precision machines by me. The straps are made from soft Scottish leather. Like the barrels, the leather is a byproduct of an important Scottish industry. It’s all about being sustainable. ‘The focus of my design is on simplicity to highlight the uniqueness of the materials themselves. I experimented with tweed initially, but it took away from the unity of the product. The watches are currently targeting a male market but one of the things I’d like to explore are designs for women. I have so many ideas in my head! ‘If I want to expand then I’d have to train someone to exceptionally high standards. But I also know I need to think about the future of my business. ‘Currently, I take the odd day off to climb Monros. That’s where I reconnect with the landscape that inspired me in the first place,

and think my thoughts. All other holidays seem to morph into research trips or sales visits. I just need more time!’ Time. It’s a classic challenge for all entrepreneurs. And the irony is not lost. But Fiodh is a company with a fascinating past and a dynamic future.

https://www.fiodh.scot

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As You Like it Chapter 7 Whisky David chats to Selim from Chapter 7 Whisky

Interview by David Pearce Article by Martin Raymond

Independent bottlers reflect much of what is best about the whisky business. Their skill, knowledge and passion is unequalled, and they have done so much to extend the scope of the business. From blends that introduce new consumers to a whole new world, to ambushing serious, life-long enthusiasts with a new experience that revives a jaded palate, independent bottlers can pull liquid rabbits from casks. All it takes is skill, knowledge, passion. And imagination. So, it’s not a great surprise to learn that Selim Evin took his inspiration from literature when he set up Chapter 7. ‘Gathering whiskies together, as we do as bottlers,’ he explains, ‘is like creating an anthology in literature. Bringing together the best stories or poetry. Each whisky is like a different chapter. And then there’s Shakespeare – in As You Like It, the famous speech about the seven ages of man. Like whisky – there is a time for every bottling, every blend.’ The seven ages of man is appropriate also because Chapter 7 came into being because Selim had reached a certain stage in his life. ‘In 2013 I had my own sea-food processing business. But I’d got to 40. You know how it is? I was at that stage in my life where I wanted something different. I had always been fascinated by whisky. My grandfather was Scottish and when I was 16 he took me on a tour of Scotland. We’d roll up to distilleries, knock on the door – this was long before every distillery had it’s own visitor centre – and I’d be captivated by the language and lore of the spirit – and the mystery of his bottles with the handwritten labels. ‘When I got to my 18th birthday I started to sample and study in earnest, educating my palate and exploring this infinite world. ‘Many years later when I was looking for a change in my life it seemed to be the obvious business to move into. I felt the independent bottling sector was full of interesting companies and people, but there was maybe a lack of focus and a lack of interest in establishing distinctive brands. ‘The trouble with this business is that it needs a lot of cash. So, for the first few years I remained in Geneva and stuck with a salaried job as I built my networks and developed the brand. ‘And then in 2019, the need for change came upon me again! I realised that what I really wanted to do was to do Chapter 7 full time. The business

model was to create a partnership with a US independent bottler that I’d been working with, plus an English businessman. With our combined resources we were able to establish a company in Scotland (Perth) and in April 2020 we released our first batch of seven whiskies.’ Not the best time to be starting out? ‘No! Right in the heart of lockdown. But every cloud… My American partners are the biggest on-line spirit club in the US. They had great experience of working on-line, so it didn’t inhibit us.’ The Chapter 7 offer has four suitably literarythemed levels. ‘Monologue is at the core of our brand. Single casks – always interesting. ‘Anecdote - small batches, often two to three casks. These are unusual, original offers. ‘Chronicle is where we take casks from the same distillery – typically twenty to thirty casks - and bottle them in small batches of 900-1000 bottles over time trying different wood finishes and ages all from the same distillery. Given the demand for quality whisky this is challenging to sustain – but worth it for the interesting variations we find. ‘Finally, Prologue is an entry level blended malt primarily for the US market. It is my plan to evolve this offer a little. It has a lower price point and uses younger whiskies. Maybe it’s because I’m spoiled - exposed to such highquality casks all the time - but I feel that we could add some more depth to this whisky.’ Selim provides some fascinating insights into the world of the independent bottler. ‘The best part of the job is visiting the supplier - the meeting, tasting and socialising. The challenge comes from the fact that whisky in a cask is a live thing. It’s always changing. We typically order five to seven sister casks. Across that order – ostensibly the same spirit – there will be lots of variations. We’ll use the best for bottling the rest we will use for blending or keep it to see where it goes in time. ‘In fact, timing is everything for us. We don’t like to tie up the company’s money in stock – it’s important to keep things moving. We like to go from cask to bottle in under a month. And our target schedule is a new release every three months. But the speed at which orders arrive is not in our control. Especially since the

pandemic, delivery times have increased. It can take up to three months for suppliers to deliver. Even at the best of times, big warehouses of half a million casks will move casks around on a fixed schedule. That can hold things up too. Our own warehouse is small (we haven’t opened it yet!), so We have casks we own in other warehouses all over the country. When you need to bring them together to make decisions and to blend, then we can’t start work until all the casks are in place.’ Frustrating and tricky? Definitely. But there are plenty compensations. ‘I still get a thrill when I see one of our bottles in a store. For me, this is a passion as much as a business. Most independent bottlers come from a whisky industry background. I didn’t. I started from zero with no contacts in the industry. So, maybe I’m especially proud of what we’ve done.’ And do any specific bottles – out of the millions he’s been part of – stick in Selim’s memory?‘Imperial ’98, Miltonduff ’98…and Jura ’98. 1998 is my year, I think! The Jura maybe more than the others as that island is less fashionable. Many people are sceptical about Jura. But I followed my heart on this one, and the ’98 got stunning reviews. Don’t go with the crowd - go with your passions!’ The future will see Chapter 7 consolidate the core business, while exploring other territories. ‘We’ve had three releases of Irish whiskey and we’re continuing to look at future options. We’re looking at the prices too. We will keep an eye on how things develop. ‘Indian whisky has great potential. There are regulatory hurdles to overcome, but the whisky itself is very, very nice, so it’s worth the effort! ‘Being based in France myself, I’ve been visiting lots of French distilleries. Red wine finished whiskies are especially full of interest. It’s a sector which is underestimated by the trade and by consumers. So far! But in the future? Who knows? We are also in discussions with French cask suppliers – casks are such a vital part of our operation. ‘And, because we have a US element to the company, we’re speaking to an amazing range of US craft distilleries.’ Selim creates a vivid narrative around his business, and the independent bottling sector as a whole. It’s a world where attention to detail is in delicate balance with a bold, overarching vison. Where caution has to be matched by a supreme confidence in your personal taste. Selim is alert to an unpredictable environment where consumer tastes and the price of his raw materials are constantly in flux. But he’s also driven by a love

of his product and a passion for the strange and marvellous business that he has chosen. Who knows what the next chapter will bring for the company? But it’s certain we will keep turning

@chapter7whisky

Hercynian Distilling

AN INTERVIEW WITH ANNA KATHARINA BUCHHOLZ

Head of distilling & COO

What is your first memory of whisky? My first memory of a Whisky was smelling a Cardhu at the bar of my parents’ restaurant in the early or maybe mid 90’s, when I was about 10 years old. I loved the smell of caramel and vanilla, the fruity notes of cake and that hint of chocolate. Anyhow no chance of trying it, my parents were quite strict, when it came to liquor and strong alcohols, since they startet producing herb and fruit based spirits in 1985. What was your first role in the industry? My first role in the spirits business was to help out at my parents’ manufactory since age of 15 or so. When it came to Whisky, I was the only person in our 2.5 ppl. company who was interested in distilling Whisky quickly after I turned 18, because around my 18th birthday I’ve had the chance to try different malt whiskies and I was flashed completely by the complexity of flavours and the parallels to parfume in which I was interested ever since. Where did you learn distilling? At our own family business and mostly from books.

What is the most important lesson you have learnt about distilling? Trust your gut feeling. Always! What is the biggest mistake you have made in distilling? I think there was no special biggest mistake. The mistakes gladly hadn’t had so much impact in the end, but all began the same way, when I meant to trust my brain more than my gut feeling. Everything can look perfect, can smell perfect, but if you’ve got the slightest doubt, leave it and stop immediately. How much do you enjoy being the distiller at Hercynian Distillery? I love it with all my heart Tell me about the Mistress of Distilling Latex 2022 bottle. How did that come about? I think all started with a brainstorming my (almost) wife and I had in late autumn time 2021 about this and that at the distillery in the warehouse, where a bit of rope was left from a delivery and I began knotting it around a bottle while talking to her. And then we both said: Hey, what about a bottle in bondage. Quickly after that we were able to release the first Mistress of Distilling

you collect whisky as well as drink it? My personal collection is quite extensive because it is more of a flavour library as a collection. So I am more of a selector than a collector as almost every bottle I own is for tasting purposes. For me the worth of a whisky is given just in one single moment - when you pour a dram and enjoy it with all your senses. In all other moments it is quite high priced decoration.

(as you know my insta account as a female similarity with a small😉 to master distiller) bottling, the Shibari Karada around christmas 2021. And soooo many people loved that a bit fetishy look straight from the first moment they saw it. So we stood in front of a whole new “problem” what would or could be the next bottling of that series. Latex and some more - so better be prepared :) What is your favourite whisky memory? There are way too many to count and each one of it was perfect, the moment it happened. Where you do most like to drink whisky? That’s also a question of my actual mood. Sometimes the dusty warehouse is the perfect location, sometimes the stillroom, sometimes the tasting lounge at the distillery sometimes the baltic sea in Finland (my second home) or Germany or at a loch in Scotland (my third home) What are peoples reaction when you first tell that you make whisky? It depends very much if you are in Germany or anywhere else. In Germany most of the people said - ok, and with that you can make a living? 😮 But it changes at the moment. Everywhere else they are quite fascinated and most of the people want to know more. More about the distillery, more about me, more about whisky. What is the whisky scene like in Germany? It developed very much in the last years. Whisky became quite a thing in Germany and the German Whisky drinker is thorough as a German engineer. I like that, because you can talk about everything whisky-ish without explaining everything. Anyhow the scene of whisky enthusiasts became a little bit buttoned up or reserved and it is not that easy to enter the groups or inner circles as easy as it was let’s say five years ago. What is your personal whisky collection like and do

Finally, what will the next bottle you buy be? Uhhh, I really don’t know yet. I will buy it by my gut feeling. Hercynian Distilling

G LENFAR CL A S Le Shuttle in search of french whisky

GLENFARCLAS Interview by David Pearce Article by Martin Raymond

The Family Distillery

Northern France and Belgium are countries that I was used to travelling to pre-covid. Living in mid-Kent, just a couple of minutes from the M20 and 30 minutes from Le Shuttle, they presented a perfect getaway option. The empty roads, perfect for cycling or driving, are a pleasure compared to the congestion we face every day in the South East. I have fond memories of cycling along the canal towpath to the stunning architecture of Brugge for lunch, followed by a walk around the many museums it has to offer. Quite often we would stay to fully enjoy the strong, yet very moreish, Belgium beers. There is something about enjoying one of those, sipped slowly like wine, in a Continental bar that you simply do not find in the UK. So it was with great delight when Le Shuttle invited me to experience their services again, and use the Flexi Plus service. Something I had never done before. It was revolutionary and made the whole experience so much more enjoyable. The biggest benefit of course is bypassing and check-in queues and driving through customs to the dedicated lounge, quite separate from the main terminal building and just a short drive to the train. You have already cleared immigration and can board at your convenience. The lounge is the perfect place to relax before your journey, especially if you have travelled quite some way. There are fridges full of cold

drinks, a Starbucks coffee machine, and plenty of sandwiches, snacks and fruits for you to help yourself too. The star attraction is the macarons though - so delicious! With up to 4 departures an hour, and your flexi ticket you are free to choose which train you would like to catch. The journey time is only 35minutes so there is no rush if you want to feed the kids or freshen up. Famed for its cheese, I was delighted to visit an artisan cheesemaker called Bernard Brothers’ just a short drive away. It was fascinating to learn about how the different cheeses are made but even better to taste them! Being a fan of soft and strong I was pleased to find numerous available. The fromagerie also had a selection of beers and charcuterie for sale. We stayed at the Ferme du Vert, a wonderful secluded retreat in Wierre-Effroy, run by a lady with excellent English having worked in Dover for many years. You may have noticed from the photographs that we took some lovely cars. Everyone felt very secure in parking due to the location’s remoteness and proximity to the rooms. I particularly enjoyed the chance to sit down in the courtyard to enjoy a cold beer whilst admiring the cars in front of the hotel and reminiscing over local restaurants I had previously visited. In particular Les Grenouilleres near Montreuil

Once showered in the opulent bathroom, it was onto the highlight of the trip - dinner! Foie gras mi cuit with pineapple and ginger chutney - every bit as delicious as it sounds and served with toasted brioche. Lamb cooked for seven hours, potato foam, mushrooms and jus - this just fell apart with its succulence and the mushrooms complimented it perfectly. Pear tart tatin with almond ice cream - one of my favourite puddings and with the addition of almond ice cream just sensational. Breakfast was a classic French affair with cold meats, cheeses, pastries and beautiful breads. Although it was March, the sun shone through the window and we could have been in St Tropez. Having substantially quashed any hunger, I went in convoy with my new friend Yves to Boulogne. A town that as a teenager I visited many times via the long discontinued ferry service from Folkestone. Driving and then walking around the cobbled streets of the old town brought back many fond memories. It is a town that is almost forgotten by tourists since the ferry stopped, so the ideal place to have an authentic French lunch surrounded by locals, yet so close to the Le Shuttle at Coquelles. Had we planned a little more, we would have driven a little farther to Le Touquet, a jewel in the northern French coastline that the Parisians use as a weekend getaway

spot. Great for families and high rollers (there is a casino) it offers boutique shops and a plethora of restaurants. I once holidayed here for 2 weeks with a friend as a 15-year-old, knowing that if we continued to cycle west it was highly unlikely to improve. Our main purpose for driving to Boulogne was to visit Le Chais, a large wine warehouse that also stocks a good range of whisky. Unfortunately, we arrived just as they locked the doors for lunch (so French!) but seeing we were British and in a Ferrari and McLaren they opened up again for us. After a quite a walk past pallets full of whisky waiting to reach the store, and onwards through endless cases of wine we reached the whisky. A very brief look for anything French I found some Rozelieures (Banylus and Pineau des Charentes finish) and Bellvoye Triple Malt Fination Grand Cru. Tasting notes will follow in a future edition as my sense of smell is still recovering from the effects of covid! With families waiting for us at home we made our way along the coast which offered great driving back to the terminal. This is where the FlexiPlus ticket came into its own. We sailed past the check-in queues and proceeded straight through to board a waiting train, having had a quick pit stop to fill up on macaroons of course! https://www.eurotunnel.com/uk/

Tasting

g Notes

TASTER NO 01 // GORDON & MACPHAIL LEDAIG 2008 HERMITAGE CASK - 45%

Nose: Light sweet smoke with dark fruits and brambles. With water light smoke and citrus zest Taste: Soft smooth with pepper and touch of apple and pear. With water more apple/pear with a sweeter smoke and oak spice Thoughts: Slightly dry finish with oak spice and smoke and salt on the tip of the tounge that comes out more with a touch of water. Great dram really up my street would like a slightly heavier mouth feel but great dram Guess the price : Around £80 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 8.5/10

// KINAHANS KASC PROJECT - 43%

Nose: Slightly spicy with some unripe green fruit Taste: BBQ oak and bitter chocolate moving into clove spice with more charred wood. Thoughts: I really like the idea about the cask but it doesn’t quite work and just seems to be lacking something Guess the price : £40 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 5/10

// DEWERS ILLEGAL SMOOTH8 YEAR OLD MEZCAL FINISH - 40%

Nose: Uplifting nose , with a complex mix of flavours , for me its slightly fruity in nature but with a grounding of spice in there as well Taste: Nice mouthfeel , with a warming sensation , which is nice and comforting , leaving a sweeter aftertaste that is pleasing Thoughts: I really like this , its a nice comforting whisky , with a alight hint of sweet and spice that rolls around your mouth with ease , nice with a couple of drops of water to allow the flavour profile to develop Guess the price : £40 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 8.5

// CHIVAS REGAL MIZUNARA - 40%

Nose: Thick creamy peach yoghurt Taste: Sweet herbs and cinnamon finishing with oak and black liquorice Thoughts: Really easy going dram with good body for such a smooth one great with cake Guess the price : £55 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 7.5/10

\\ MICHEL COUVREUR VIN JAUNE - 48%

Nose: Soaking oats slight hazelnut and bet of wet cut grass. Taste: Right away clove and oak spice white wine coming through and slightly nutty, winey finish with oak wood spice lasting Thoughts: Nice dram slightly on the white wine side for me could get used to it like the wood spice, bit of peat would be nice in this one. Guess the price : £115 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 7/10

// TOMATIN 15 YEAR OLD MOSCATEL FINISH - 46%

Nose: Porridge oats honey and caramel with a slight nip Taste: Nutty start moving through butter to a citrus peel got a spicy kick finish with a feuit and nut chocolate bar then that last spice on the edges with dried fruit in the middle of the mouth the spice lasting Thoughts: It’s got that tomatin base but there is something unusual and different that just keeps popping out here and there throughout the dram all the way to that dry and spicy finish,the complex balance is fantastic, the finish in the cask has been long enough to get that flavour in and grab a bit of that oak bite to balance I’d brilliantly Guess the price : £115 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 9/10

\\ FRANCOIS VOYER 8 YEAR OLD COGNAC AGED IN RYE CASKS - 43%

Nose: Lots of creamy vanilla with caramel and wood. Taste: Banana with vanilla cream and oak coming in, then finishing with some dried apricots and oak spice Thoughts: Very light on the mouth and easy to drink good balance between sweetness and oak spice, great neat think water would kill it. Guess the price : £65 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 6.5/10

TASTER NO 02 - WHIKSY AT HOME // GORDON & MACPHAIL LEDAIG 2008 HERMITAGE CASK - 45%

Nose: Seaside Smoke, bonfires over the sand dunes and liquorice sweets Taste: Smokiness is quite gentle, but there is a build up of something more burnt that smokey. Thoughts: Quite a short dry finish to it. The nose was superb and expected something really special, but it failed to deliver that big maritime smokey flavour. Guess the price : 65 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 6

// CHIVAS REGAL MIZUNARA - 40%

Nose: Poached pears and golden syrup Taste: Light summer white fruits continue with a slight warmth coming through. Sweet and slightly spicy on the finish Thoughts: Nice and light, not overly complex. Great starting dram Guess the price : 40 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 6

// DEWERS ILLEGAL SMOOTH 8 YEAR OLD MEZCAL FINISH -40%

Nose: Caramel and candyfloss sweetness Taste: Watercress and salad leaves, slight pepperyness Thoughts: Smooth and very drinkable, nice but not an awful lot going on with it Guess the price : 25 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 6

\\ MICHEL COUVREUR VIN JAUNE - 48%

Nose: Raisins baked in a cake, Dundee Cake :) Taste: Dundee/fruitcake continues. Thick and heavy, like you could actually spread butter on it. Thoughts: Lovely light heat and a gentle spice. Smooth and sweet, with the dried fruits and almost a Glace cherry to finish Guess the price : 60 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 7

\\ FRANCOIS VOYER 8 YEAR OLD COGNAC AGED IN RYE CASKS - 43%

Nose: Apples, brandy butter, and something light and floral, rose water Taste: Very mellow. Melted butter and a dry oatiness Thoughts: Very drinkable, smooth and mellow, slightest of heat and spice at the end Guess the price : 50 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 7

TASTER NO 03 // GORDON & MACPHAIL LEDAIG 2008 HERMITAGE CASK - 45%

Nose: Stewed plums and vanilla, nutty raisin, straw, leather and perhaps a hint of heather Taste: Starts sweet, gives way quickly to stewed red fruit, licorice,tea, oak and salty black pepper Thoughts: Quite a dry tanin finish, nice but not a keeper Guess the price : 55 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 7

// CHIVAS REGAL MIZUNARA - 40%

Nose: Light nose of red berries, wood, leather and a medicinal hint Taste: Red berries, lemon and citrus notes, wood, little bit of white pepper, vegetal, vanilla and tobacco Thoughts: Not for me this one, maybe a good pre dinner or new to whisky youngsters Guess the price : 25 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 3

// DEWERS ILLEGAL SMOOTH8 YEAR OLD MEZCAL FINISH - 40%

Nose: Perfumed, floral, violets, redcurrants, vanilla and a hint of lemon Taste: Pineapple cubes, apple, white pepper and citrus Thoughts: Not a favorite flavour profile, medium finish with a lingering bitterness Guess the price : 30 to 40 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 5

// TOMATIN 15 YEAR OLD MOSCATEL FINISH - 46%

Nose: Apricot, malted barley, vanilla, white grape, picking bine and clove Taste: Juicy, savoury, red cherry, caramel sweetness, black pepper and ash, gives way to hint of tinned pear with a hint of cinnamon the finishfinish. Thoughts: Interesting, nice dram, would order in a bar Guess the price : 35 to 45 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 8

\\ MICHEL COUVREUR VIN JAUNE - 48%

Nose: Apple, white grape, caramel, raisin and oak Taste: Starts sweet, develops quickly to dry white wine, slightly sour, citrus peel, not well balanced, bit of a sweet vs sharp fistfight, finish is long with charcoal, white pepper and sweet vanilla Thoughts: Not great, not a balanced dram, with a slightly unpleasant sourness Guess the price : 30 Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 2

\\ FRANCOIS VOYER 8 YEAR OLD COGNAC AGED IN RYE CASKS - 43%

Nose: Sweet honey, honeysuckle, red berries, crisp apple, with a hint of Terry’s chocolate orange Taste: Dense mouth feel with red currants, booked sweets, powdered sugar and oak Thoughts: Not usually a fan of Rye whisky, but this was really good. Cracking dram at 43 abv Guess the price : 50 ish Your rating out of 10 (half marks are allowed): 7.5

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