EDIBLE DESTINATION

CULINARY ADVENTURE IN HISTORIC QUÉBEC

PHOTOS AND STORY BY MICHELLE NEWMAN

One of the most beautiful cites in the world, Québec City is proud of its 400-year-plus heritage – and you don’t even have to cross the Atlantic to enjoy its distinct European vibe, oozing with charm and packed with history.

Old Québec is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the only remaining fortified city north of Mexico. Stunning 17th and 18th century stone buildings accented with slanting rooflines and colorful shutters line narrow, meandering cobblestone streets and Place Royale in Lower Town. Often described as the “cradle of French civilization in North America,” this is where it all started with explorer Samuel de Champlain in 1608.

Québécois love fine food as much as they love history. Boulangeries, tempting patisseries and inviting outdoor cafés are everywhere. Québec City is also home to North America’s oldest grocery store. Founded in 1871, Épicerie J.A. Moisan is a foodie’s feast for the eyes as well. Renowned for its superb selection of local and global fine foods, including preserves and fine cheeses, the quaint décor makes it the perfect backdrop for Instagram photo ops.

LUNCH

Linger over a leisurely lunch at Le Lapin Sauté in the heart of Quartier Petit Champlain. Lapin, or rabbit, rules here. Te menu includes Rabbit Sausage, Rabbit Rillettes served with glazed confit carrot and apple-bacon and onion sauce, Rabbit Cassoulet and Rabbit Poutine. Te cozy restaurant has just the right recipe for romance, with a welcoming stone fireplace, heavy hand-hewn wooden beams, dim lighting and dried herbs hanging from the rafters. It’s just like being in a rustic French country inn. Or browse around the postcard-pretty historic district renowned for designer boutiques, fine art galleries, outdoor cafés and specialty shops. L’Échaudé, located in the Old Port District, has been a local favorite for over 30 years. Te bistro features modern French classics such as Steak Frite, Beef Tartare, and Duck Confit. If you’re an adventurous eater, try the blood sausage.

DINNER

For a contemporary twist on classic Québec favorites, try La Bûche. Signature dishes include Québec Shepherd’s Pie with red-wine-braised beef and fruit ketchup. Te artistically arranged charcuterie boards are exquisite presentations. Save room for Pouding Chômeur, or Poor Man’s Pudding – a melt-in-your-mouth French Canadian version of bread pudding. Te light and fluffy concoction of cake batter baked in a rich caramel sauce made with local maple syrup and heavy cream. For a twist, it’s topped with teeny slivers of crisp bacon.

THE NATIONAL DISH

No visit to Québec is complete without a poutine experience. Considered the national dish, poutine is a potato concoction made of wilted French fries and fresh cheese curds smothered with rich brown gravy. To pass the taste test, the cheese must still “squeak” when bitten into. Many eateries throughout the city have their own version of this caloric bomb. Chez Ashton remains a local favorite.

TEA AND BRUNCH

For the ultimate indulgence, enjoy afternoon tea at the castle-like Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. Te legendary landmark, majestically perched on a bluff overlooking the Saint Lawrence River, claims to be the most photographed hotel in the world. Tiered platters of finger sandwiches, pretty French pastries, scones and clotted cream are complemented with the Fairmont’s exclusive blend of Maple Tea.

Another worthwhile splurge is the grand gourmet brunch at Chez Muffy. One of the city’s best restaurants, it’s housed in an 1820s warehouse. Dine al fresco on the lovely terrace with gorgeous views of the St. Lawrence River. After brunch, browse through Auberge Saint-Antoine, a stunning Relais & Châteaux Hotel where Sir Paul McCartney once stayed. Make sure to take a peek at the hundreds of artifacts excavated during on-site archeological digs.

HISTORIC MEAL

For a taste of history, Restaurant Aux Anciens Canadiens is tops. Housed in Québec City’s oldest building, accented with lipstick red shutters, the restaurant is famous for traditional Québécois cuisine from the 17th and 18th century. It’s hearty, robust and flavorful peasant food, designed to fill stomachs and impart energy to toil away on the family farm. Guests can sample authentic, classic dishes such as pea soup, pig knuckles, meat pies (Tourtière), beans cooked with maple syrup and maple sugar tarts topped with fresh whipped cream.

MODERN DIGS

For something more modern, Le Chic Shack, a hipster hangout, has a cool, upbeat vibe. Tey cook up the town’s best burgers with squishy, soft homemade buns topped with unusual toppings and sauces. Order the pungent, made-from-scratch gingersoda. Tey also have aunique spin on poutine – the potatoes are smashed, then fried to retain the crispness even after being smothered in a hearty gravy.

FARM-TO-TABLE

Nibble your way around the new public market, Le Grand Marché de Québec. Sample farm-fresh and local specialty items from Île d’Orléans and enjoy the artisan cheeses, maple products, jams and jellies, foie gras, berries and baked goods. Or go directly to Île d’Orléans, a rural farming community just 20 minutes from Québec City. Tis island in the St. Lawrence River is one of the earliest colonies of New France. Te lush, bucolic landscape called “the Garden of Québec” is dotted with farm stands, undulating strawberry fields, vineyards, apple orchards, sugar shacks and pristine 18th centuryfarmhouses. Epicurean travelers will be dazzled by the richness of this gastronomic oasis. Bring an empty suitcase and fill it up with artisanal cheeses, charcuterie and pâtés, gourmet chocolates, a bottle of the famous cassis blackcurrant liqueur, local wine or apple ice cider, jams and maple products.

Remember, you don’t have to cross the pond for a sweet taste of history. It’s waiting for you in Québec City. To learn more visit www.quebec-cite.com/en and tourisme.iledorleans.com/en.

Culinary adventures await in Quebec.