4 minute read
PERSONAL TRADITION
Traditional Paella (Photo by Frederic Covo)
MUSINGS . TRADITIONAL PAELLA BY CARMEN ROMO DE VIVAR, PHD
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few days ago, while researching paella, I ended up at the tasteatlas.com website where I discovered paella is the fourth most famous dish in the world (behind sushi, ramen and tacos). I have to admit it surprised me, but then I started tumbling through many of my own paella memories.
THE FUNNY ONE …
During one of his trips and with his eternal quest for the “traditional paella” recipe in his mind (which I am sharing with some modifications, to his dismay), my globetrotting brother encountered two Spanish ladies. Tey politely asked him to swap seats so they could be together during the trip, which allowed him the opportunity to inquire if they knew how to make “traditional paella.”
“Of course!” they said in unison, so he drilled them about conflicting research regarding the inclusion of one of the main ingredients, the tomato. Te more extroverted one answered with that inimitable forceful tone the Spanish use when conveying information (or opinions), passionately stating, “NEVER,” and explaining that paella can be traced to the 1200s when the Moors introduced the technique of cultivating rice in Spain, and the tomato (from the West Indies) was discovered in 1492. Meanwhile, the other friend, still seated behind the lady lecturing about the tomato, but in perfect view of my brother, gesticulated that her friend was crazy, that tomato was the soul of the paella, and that it “HAD” to be included. Suddenly, the lecturing lady turned, facing her friend, realizing that she had been contradicting and mocking her behind her back. An epic battle of words started between them and as it escalated in volume and temper, my brother only wanted to disappear from the scene, no closer to an answer for his burning paella question.
THE TOUCHING ONE …
Chef José Andrés nourished not only the body but the soul of Puerto Ricans with “Paella María” just after the homonymous hurricane devastated Puerto Rico with seemingly insurmountable challenges, not the least of which was the lack of electricity. But in spite of the adverse circumstances, over a period of three weeks his team managed to serve a million portions of paella made with whatever the island could provide – chicken, seafood, vegetables, bread.
THE CHALLENGING ONE …
Recently my friend Michelle Newman, after seeing a picture of my paella sans crustaceans, asked if I could teach a paella class to her culinary ambassadors group. I was a little apprehensive, but my teaching gene got the best of me and I agreed.
She explained there would be a couple of restrictions since we would be cooking in a Hanafi Muslim halal kitchen! Panic ensued – no pork, no chorizo, no crustaceans or any seafood for that matter. How on earth to build the deep flavors of paella with such restrictions? Enlisting my sister’s discerning palate, I created a rub using Hungarian sweet paprika and marinated halal chicken for several minutes before searing in olive oil. Tat at least helped with the lack of kick the spicy chorizo would have added to the dish.
Armed with the fearlessness Chef Andrés displayed in Puerto Rico, I walked into the Halal Paella class. According to students that had tried “traditional paella,” the Halal version was different, but still enjoyable. Te Muslim students said they learned a new way to combine halal ingredients into a different dish they could prepare for their families from now on.
THE EMERGENCY ONE …
My quest for the definition of the truly “traditional paella” was caused by another brother (NOT the Paella researcher). His birthday was coming up and he had been reminiscing about how much he missed a good “traditional paella,” so I wanted to surprise him with one for his celebration. He is terribly allergic to crustaceans, so again I had to improvise, something completely outside of my comfort zone. I eliminated our beloved shrimp and langoustine from our family’s traditional recipe and substituted them with clams, calamari, baby octopus and the crowning touch, frog’s legs!! Yes, you are reading correctly – and while not very traditional, it was quite delicious.
Having allowed my musings to take me full circle, I am now fully conscious of why paella is so famous across the globe and how “traditional paella” according to my per-ception is a personal construct that embodies availability, nourishment, feelings, family love and friends’ affection, etc., with no unique set-in-stone definition. Some will have tomato … and some won’t.
8)"5h4*/:06353"%*5*0/"-1"&--" Tag @ediblesa on Instagram with a photo of ZPVS version of traditional paella by May 1 for a chance to win a free one-year subscription to Edible San Antonio. If it’s the winner’s own recipe, we’ll print it in next year’s Paella Challenge issue. The winner will be announced in the Summer issue and on our Facebook page!
