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CONTENTS
4-5 | OUT & ABOUT
17-23 | MAD ABOUT MADRID'S HOTEL VILLA MAGNA
24-41 | IT'S ABOUT RHINE
42-48 | LUXURY FAMILY HOLIDAYS IN...PORTUGAL
49-51 | SUMMER EXPERIENCES IN SWITZERLAND
54-55 | LUNCH IN THE ALGARVE
57-62 | A SWANKY ROAD TRIP SOUTH PORTUGAL
64-73 | THRILLED TRIDENT HOTEL PORT ANTONIO
74-81 | OBRIGADA... PORTUGAL
6-16 SWELLEGANT STAYS 63 SWANKY & SUSTAINABLE 86-95 LETTERS FROM
83-85 | THE SPA UNCOMMON LONDON
THE SWANK TEAM Peta Phipps EDITOR IN CHIEF Travel colors my world and I feel most alive when I am out and about in a new city, discovering new places and sharing those experiences with you, my friends.
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ALEXANDRA MAE
ANDREW INNERARITY
ANN MARIE SCHEIDLER
ASHLEE TUCK
EDITOR-AT-LARGE When you look up "wanderlust" in the dictionary odds are that a picture of me is in the definition.
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY I Prefer to let the images do the talking.
EDITOR-AT-LARGE "Thailand was the trip of a lifetime for this Chicago girl...a sensory overload in the best of ways. The people, the food, the landscape: all unforgettable."
EDITOR-AT-LARGE "My definition of home is whatever island, mountaintop or chic resort I happen to be sleeping in that night."
AVA ROSALES
DANIELLE KRAUSE
DYLAN BENOIT
JEFFREY SOBEL
FEATURES EDITOR So, what’s the best part of traveling? Meeting new people and immersing myself in the culture!
EDITOR-AT-LARGE Exploring the fascinating variety of this exquisitely beautiful blue planet nourishes and fulfills my spirit. Being able to delight and inspire you, by sharing some of these travel gems is an even greater gift. Enjoy!'
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR I’m a chef with Champagne taste and a beer budget, but always seem to find myself surrounded by the most amazing people in the most amazing places. From eating termites in the Honduran jungle to learning how to make dim sum in Hong Kong, for me treasure is in the story.
EDITOR-AT-LARGE With so much to see in this world there is no ti
LANE NIESET
SERGIO OLIVARES
EDITOR-AT-LARGE "My definition of home is whatever island, mountaintop or chic resort I happen to be sleeping in that night."
CREATIVE DIRECTOR When I am not at a music concert, you might catch me hunting down new and exciting roads to drive on the weekends. "I live my life a quarter mile at a time." - Dom Toretto.
By The Editors
Azimuth Barcelona, Spain Prepare for the buzz that will be created at Azimuth, the sweeping rooftop terrace at Almanac Barcelona, a new hospitality tastemaker. Azimuth describes the science of navigation using astronomy which helped the ancients chart a course to new worlds, tastes, sights, and sounds. Today you can simply set your own course to get here via Uber, taxi or on foot. Simply follow the most famous street in Barcelona straight to Gran Via Corts de Catalanes 619-621. Grab your sunglasses and enjoy a terrace offering unobstructed views over the city of Barcelona. The rooftop sun lounge and dipping pool are exclusive to hotel guests, but the panoramic terrace is open to everyone, so when you are out and about in Barcelona, pop up and have a taste of the good life.
ADEGA San Jose, California ADEGA restaurant, located in San Jose’s Little Portugal was just awarded the prestigious Michelin Star. Known for authentic Portuguese cuisine, fresh seafood dishes and seasonal ingredients, ADEGA, meaning wine cellar in Portuguese, is also known for offering the largest selection of Portuguese wines outside of Portugal. ADEGA is family-owned and operated by San Jose natives Carlos and Fernanda Carreira. Chefs are their daughter, chef Jessica Carreira, and her fiancé, chef David Costa.
Bagatelle Monte Carlo, Monaco New York meets the Belle Epoque in Aymeric Clemente & Remi Laba’s newest restaurant – Bistrot Bagatelle Monte Carlo. Located in the heart of Monaco just around the corner of Casino Square, it is the new hotspot for Monaco’s elite. Offering tempting treats like Lobster Ceviche from Executive Chef Rocco Seminara who trained under Alain Ducasse, specialty drinks and a venue boasting a terrace in an open glasshouse it is certainly a new favorite in the Principality. SwankyRetreats.com
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SWELLEGANT STAYS The indeďŹ nable sense of style that makes us swoon: swanky, swell & elegant.
Almanac Barcelona Barcelona, Spain Located on Gran Via de les Corts de les Catalanes, the Almanac is positioned to take advantage of the best of Barcelona. This brand is a new luxury hospitality tastemaker developing iconic hotels in landmark locations and this hotel delivers their message in style. Their mission is to enhance the guest experience through the elements of travel that make up an entire journey: scent, taste, light and touch. When those elements are brought together in an exciting way, your heart may skip a beat or even beat faster – in either case, you will know they got it right. Take your pick of one of their 91 luxurious accommodations, including 30 suites. In this prime location, the hotel is steps from Paseo de Gracia and Plaza Cataluña, where guests can find stylish shopping, restaurants, bars and
museums. As tempting as the lure of all this Spanish sophistication and splendor is, the hotel competes for guests’ attention with Línia, the hotel’s Mediterranean brasserie, offering an all-day dining and sharing menu. Sit back and enjoy the fare while skilled barmen serve a select cocktail menu along with a choice of regional wines and the sherry of Jerez. The sweeping rooftop terrace, Azimuth, shows off the city from a unique vantage point. Here again, Almanac elevates the guest experience and gives every reason to stay exactly where you are. Trust us that the social media moments will be far more fantastic than any of the traditional shots seen on friend’s newsfeeds. This hotel will soon become your new favorite haunt in Barcelona, from top to bottom. www.AlmanacHotels.com
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The Dewberry Charleston, South Carolina Like so much of Charleston, South Carolina, The Dewberry has undergone a rebirth that blends glamour, style and that unique twang of southern hospitality that simply cannot be recreated anywhere else. A midcentury structure revitalized into a downtown retreat, the 155 contemporary rooms, and suites have been meticulously designed to greet every guest with modern comforts and southern charm. Because one cannot visit Charleston without feasting on the town’s traditions and fine dining, also located on site is Henrietta’s brasserie. With menus that change every season, Henrietta’s classic yet inventive cuisine will satisfy every appetite. In addition The Living Room at The Dewberry offers a welcomed respite for all weary travelers who wish to enjoy a mid-day custom tea or an evening cocktail at the all brass bar. To top it off this summer marks the grand opening of The Dewberry Spa, ensuring you will find complete rest and relaxation in this high-class lowcountry gem. www.thedewberrycharleston.com 8
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Eden Roc at Cap Cana Punta Cana, Dominican Republic It's bright blue here! The colors are vivid and crisp but not jarring, and we are not describing Mother Nature’s handy work alone. The design of Eden Roc at Cap Cana’s newest suites blend right in. This Relais & Chateaux offering, appropriately named The Beach Club experience, has almost stolen the show. The original portion of the hotel is made up of boutique suites more closely resembling villas, with private pools and golf carts that guests can use to explore the expansive grounds and get them to the golf course. They are nestled among lush gardens and have a European glamour interwoven with a Caribbean twist. The inspired colors of these suite’s exteriors come from the original houses in the Dominican Republic. Vivid and vibrant interior and exterior colors of pink, green, yellow and more, play off the color of the surrounding foliage. These boutique suites offer the ultimate privacy and intimacy with their garden and lagoon views. Honing in on a singular focal point, there’s one spectacular view down at The Beach Club. That view takes in everything from the rolling sea coming ashore on the club’s crescent beach, to the infinity edge pools
whose spilling sounds pale in comparison to the gently breaking waves only feet from the resort's large patio. As the first guests to stay in these suites, with their exclusive beach butlers and concierge, there seemed little need for the iPad that allows guests to control the entire suite from anywhere in the room. Here you have privacy and luxury redefined. There are only 34 of these suites and each is designed for complete privacy. There’s a full kitchen, but who needs that when Blue Grill & Bar has also just opened and serves a breakfast with everything from the traditional staples to crepes…totally unexpected in the islands, or at least on this one. At night is where the challenge comes in. Insider recommendation is to stay a minimum of six nights. Yes, for the helicopter tours, equestrian center, golf, beach and on and on, but mainly so you can manage to have two nights at each of the three, restaurant 9
offerings. Blue, as mentioned, takes on a JapanesePeruvian fusion and plates it perfectly come dinner time. Robatayaki and Nikkei cooking techniques are used to create memorable dishes in a stunning setting. You’ll need two evenings here to not miss a dish or cocktail that catches your eye. Speaking of cocktails, The Riva bar, themed around the design of a boat, down to the detail of the staff uniforms. Every inch of the space is reminiscent of a well-tended to yacht. This bar is right across from Mediterraneo, featuring delectable Mediterranean specialties and an extensive wine cellar in the back of the dining room. The third dining option is right on the water’s edge and serves seafood, prepared to perfection. Ask for the Boca Chica fish with fried plantain and avocado salad. This is luxury redefined in the Dominican Republic. The size of the boutique resort allows for intimacy and detailed service while the expansiveness of the overall property gives a feeling of never-ending freedom to wander. The beach club experience is everything it sounds like. Now you no longer should imagine spending longer than an afternoon at a beach club, you get to live it for as many days and nights as your heart desires, butlers included. www.edenroccapcana.com 10
Gasparilla Inn & Club Boca Grande, Florida Throwback is an understatement when it comes to this slice of Americana. The Gasparilla Inn & Club was built in 1911 and became The Gasparilla Inn in 1913, but don’t get caught up in the two-year time lag. There’s so much more here that hasn’t changed. The inn is on the National Register of Historic Places, so it is maintained under their watchful eye and adheres to strict standards so as not to destroy the historical beauty of the hotel. The staff, being primarily from the islands of the Bahamas and some from Caribbean islands, give another touch of authenticity to old Florida and how things once were. The hotel rooms are spacious and can be found within the main building, which is all there was in the early 1900's. Now there are villas trimming the property from in front of the hotel’s main entrance to those that have unobstructed views along the golf course. The course itself is an enviable
place to be because of its views and proximity to the water. Some holes are set right on the water’s edge, making for spectacular water hazards and distracting backdrops. The inn is really a slice of old Florida and the typical activities of those who come here to escape the weather up north and to feel as though they are on a tropical island without ever leaving the US. Dinner in The Pink Elephant, one of the resort's most famous dining establishments, is casual and the menu is based on imaginative local cuisine. Be sure to finish the evening off with the famous cocktail (rich and creamy so it can easily replace dessert) The Pink Elephant Hummer. You’ll be glad you tried this. For a more formal affair, The Main Dining Room, set in the lobby of the original structure has a Maitre D’ who is also the sommelier. Quick witted and ready with a pairing of any wine with any choice from the menu, he will surely leave you with a great taste in your mouth and a few new jokes to share with friends.
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Instead of pairing necessarily symbiotic wines and foods, he sometimes likes the "semi into a wall" approach, smashing opposites like my beet salad with Florida citrus and goat cheese with The Ned, a New Zealand wine full of grapefruit and high notes. Dinner here is classic and laid back. This is old Florida, quiet and a little more refined than the state we know today. The security of one road in and one road out, has made it a haven for the affluent and elite. We hear tell many presidents have made a stay here. and just across Charlotte Harbor sits Cabbage Key where Jimmy Buffet wrote Cheeseburger in Paradise. In case you want to venture off the Pete Dye signature 18 hole course and hit the water to explore the area and surrounding barrier islands. That’s an interesting tidbit, on your way there, maybe try your hand at fishing. Boca Grande has long been known as “the tarpon fishing capital of the world.” www.the-gasparilla-inn.com
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Grande Real Villa Italia Cascais, Portugal Grande Real Villa Italia in Cascais is steps from the water. Elegant and bespoke, the arrival experience is first rate while remaining inviting, as only the Portuguese can manage to do. Be welcomed in Portugal, everywhere you go, but come to Cascais and be a part of the community known as the Beverly Hills of Portugal. This place is definitely not Los Angeles, it has its own fabulous place in the spotlight, but with the personality it embodies there's no reason to doubt the similarity. Cascais oozes swank and Grande Real Villa Italia sits directly across from the water, delivering unobstructed views of the Atlantic Ocean as brilliantly as it serves up everything from tea to dinner…in high style. This hotel takes every detail seriously and pays attention to the guest experience in an unobtrusive fashion. A prime example is that the potentially mundane meal of breakfast is an elegant affair, enveloped in the casual elegance travelers come to expect from a beachside hotel. The meal is offered in Navegantes Restaurant, a somewhat formal dining room, adorned with modern furnishings and light fixtures. There is an arrangement of sumptuous breakfast foods of both Portuguese and international origin placed on glossy black stone counters. Being
seated amidst the eye-catching décor and appealing arrangement of charcuterie, fresh fruit, pastries and freshly squeezed juices is captivating enough, but the pool is just outside the glass doors and looks more tempting than the bevy of epicurean choices, but priorities will win out. If you’re an early riser, have a look at the pool and Atlantic Ocean from the balcony at sunrise...that sight alone will have you carefully weigh your options, but think the first step is to satiate your hunger with some of this delectable food. Explore Grande Real Villa Italia in depth. After breakfast, book yourself into the spa – Real Spa Therapy is down a set of dimly lit stairs with a cascade of water ushering you into the treatment sanctuary. A sense of well-being and time standing still simultaneously wash over you upon entering. Take advantage of the spa by spending a day in treatments, sipping tea and lounging in the therapy pool which is filled with seawater, making full use of its therapeutic properties. The spa also uses native Portuguese ingredients in its treatments, ensuring you’ll be immersed in the country without ever leaving the hotel. After pampering yourself, you may want to
save touring Cascais for another day and simply head back to your plush suite, slip on a robe and slippers and sit on your balcony. Watch the sea do its thing or enjoy a bottle of Portuguese wine while the sun slips away for the night. You’re in the right place at Grande Villa Real. Soak it all in and enjoy this part of the country. There’s always tomorrow to tour the center of town, walk to Boca do Inferno (Hells Mouth) and see why the name is very suitable, even if seemingly contradictory in this tranquil enclave just west of Lisbon. Enjoy dinner and drinks back at the hotel at La Terraza Restaurant & Bar and Belvedere Ristorante unwind in the lobby or out by the pool. You are a welcome guest in Portugal, especially at Grande Real Villa Italia. www.granderealvillaitalia.realhotelsgroup.com 14
RM Guesthouse Setúbal, Portugal Tiled walls and traditional Portuguese pavement envisioned amongst bustling cityscapes is typically what comes to mind when thinking about the Lisbon area of Portugal. Those thoughts can be the impetuous to planning a great vacation in Portugal, but there’s so much more to this diverse yet compact area of the country. Here’s a little discussed place, just across the bridge from Lisbon…the city of Setúbal, pronounced (shtoo-bahl), is historic and poetic in its own right and is home to RM Guesthouse…The Experience. We love that the tagline for the name of this boutique hotel is “The Experience” because the hotel itself really is an experience and worth spending some time getting to know. Besides all the city of Setúbal has to offer, being set upon the north bank of the River Sado and buffered by the Atlantic Ocean, the image of a busy industrial port city is the washed away from your mind when staying at RM Guesthouse. Situated steps from museums, and a market unlike any other we have visited, you’ll want to explore castles on hills and spy dolphins from a boat. That’s if you ever decide to leave the guesthouse.
RM is designed around fashion; from the LUXURY BAGS suite, where you find Hermes rugs, cushions and stacked luggage, to the No.5 suite, you’ll feel as though you are swaddled in the fashionable world of haute couture. The seven suites are found at the top of an original, fully restored, staircase are anchored by the SALA, an inviting common area and home to the wellstocked honor bar. Everything about the guesthouse seems a unique twist for any hotel but especially one in a city filled with a wealth of history, unrelated to such swank, this place is a refreshing splash of fun and
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color. The entire structure is a renovated 19th century edifice. With its original heavy wooden door, used as artwork in the common area, antique ironwork still adorns the exterior of the building on its balconies and along the staircase leading up to the suites. The other five of the seven suites are the Monogram suite, which needs no explanation as to its décor, the Angels master suite, based on the sexy styling of the lingerie shop that uses angels as the name for their models and customers… the GG suite surrounds you in a Gucci-feel, and Roberto suite drapes guests in a sense of Cavalli. The Designer Shoe suite is almost every woman’s dream, looks and feels very expensive and is ever so comfortable. Our favorite element in this suite is a single black Louboutin in a birdcage. Curious? You’ll need to check in to check out this unique slice of Portugal. The husband and wife team of Rita and Romeu Martins who created this gorgeous set of accommodations ensured that All suites benefit from large windows overlooking the city’s main 16
avenue. Sheets and towels are 100% cotton and most definitely made in Portugal. The spoils of Nespresso coffee machines in each suite, Acqua Armani and a warm welcoming bottle of Ermelinda Freitas wine set a haute tone immediately upon arrival. Every detail was thought out to create the best sensory experiences for their guests. The quirks and charm of the pink dog sculpture sitting on a balcony at the end of the main hallway is almost as whimsical as the yellow pig and puppy up front by the oversized yellow-framed mirror at reception. Explore Setúbal from the warmth and luxury of this charming boutique hotel. They’ll curate the experience, just let them know your desires: helicopter tour, dolphin watching, hiking, horseback riding on the beach and more. www.rmguesthouse.pt
T U O B A D MA
S ’ D I R MAD
HOTEL
VILLA MAGNA Story By Peta Phipps
Located in the swanky and sophisticated neighborhood of Salamanca, Hotel Villa Magna put us in the heart of the fashionable side of Madrid while seamlessly embodying that same flair throughout the hotel. Intertwined with modern chic, is a solid foundation of classic elegance. This is hardly surprising as the very ground it is built on has a history of its own. The hotel stands in the footprint of the Palace of Anglada. The Moorish-influenced architecture of that palace and its infamous parties, hosted in harmony and style all resonate throughout the hotel to this day. In every detail, there is noticeable attention paid. The functionality of a staircase, as one example, is not merely to get guests from one floor to another, but stained glass is used to create the wall between the interior and exterior of the building, transporting you from one realm to the other with rays of colorful light during the day and after sunset, there to charm you as jeweled baubles guides ushering you to and from the evening’s events.
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Service is impeccable and the rooms are exceptional here. On our first night, all we wanted to do was, well, everything. Madrid is a city of contrasts, style, passion, and fashion, with a dash of the old intermingling with the new at every turn. We were in it, really in the thick of it. All we needed to do was take one step out the back door of the hotel and we were in shopping heaven and spoiled for choice when it came to dining options. When we turned our attention to what was just outside the front door, we knew we would need more memory on our phones. Every “must see” monument, building, museum, and park is at our feet, staying at Villa Magna. Back door or front, we couldn’t go wrong. So what did we do? We made the right choice in selecting this hotel…even though it left us with more options than we had imagined. With all that swirling around us, the
pull of the impeccably tailored hotel won out and we opted for wine served out on the patio. Such a glorious evening escape. We used that time wisely and plotted our route for the next day’s adventure. The setup is perfect for relaxing and talking; casual seating in a glass-encased patio with some of those notoriously delicious Spanish wines at our disposal. Checks all the boxes for the first night and maybe a few more throughout our stay. The wall of cascading water is on the back side of the room while dead-center is an arrangement of urns brimming with flora to draw the eye from one place to another. We are protected from the elements but tastefully surrounded by everything the senses need to know one is outside.
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From here, the stained glass that was seen in the staircase is now visible as an exterior wall, rising above the transparent ceiling of the patio. It is just as glorious from the outside, at night, as it is with the sun bringing its colors to life mid-day, creating art in the spiraling stairwell. There’s enough here to almost never step outside of the hotel, but Madrid is calling out to us. We planned and plotted. Had to see Buen Retiro Park…Parque del Buen Retiro, if I do show off my little bit of Spanish. This is the lovely park you may have seen in images surrounding stories of Madrid. This is the place with rowboats on a manmade lake with the towering statuary in the background. The park is massive and intimate at the same time. There is so much space that you’ll not be elbow-to-elbow with anyone and on some days, you may find your own little corner all to yourself. Of course, that’s not normally the case
when at the Palacio de Cristal, inside the park. This glass and steel structure from the 1800’s, originally built to showcase flora and fauna from the Philippines, is now open to the public as it innocently casts linear shadows that do wonders for any photograph. Its shape, that of a Greek cross, is almost lost on visitors so eager to grab a selfie or clear shot through one of its many panes of glass, offers symmetry as each of its four “arms” are of the same length. Because of this architectural fact, even on busy days, you’ll be able to find room for yourself. Even if it is not overlooking the point of the park you may want, The Palacio is about balance and symmetry and you'll make a great memory here. Madrid makes it easy to create those. From Prado National Museum, Royal Palace of Madrid, to Plaza Mayor, we were enjoying this city, but there’s no place like home and when in Madrid, we’ve decided Villa Magna is that home. SwankyRetreats.com
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When we popped out for dinners, which was always something special in the city, we always wanted to get back before being too exhausted, just so we could enjoy the room. One night we made it to Botín, the world’s oldest restaurant, per the Guinness Book of Records. Great food and ambiance, and to know you’re in the oldest restaurant makes the meal that much more fantastic. It seems Madrid tugs at the heartstring in every category but even on this level, Villa Magna rises to the occasion. The Yang Chinese Restaurant, just off the lobby and adjacent to our favorite spot, the patio, is rated the best Chinese restaurant in Europe. We obviously walked a lot so we could enjoy every morsel the city brought to our table, but never too weary to enjoy the hotel. 22
We said it before but it bears repeating. We carved out plenty of time to just soak in the ambiance of our room. It is spacious and plush. Appointed with elegant furnishings and marble bathrooms, you come to expect nothing less from a five-star hotel in one of the world’s most historic cities, but Villa Magna really delivers. The beds cradle you and seem to almost not want to let you get up and make a Nespresso. We loved every minute at the hotel, we might actually be a little obsessed with it, to tell the truth. When you visit Madrid, make it a point to stay at Villa Magna, you will be happy you did. Remember we told you about the patio, whose proper name is the Terraza Lounge and it’s sure to become one of your favorite spots as well. Sip, savor, and enjoy Madrid evenings from here. www.villamagna.es/en
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IT'S ABOUT
RHINE One traveler takes an eight-day Viking River Cruise down the legendary Rhine
Story and photos by Andrew Innerarity
o begin my week-long journey in the land of wine, cheese and beer, I touch down in Basel, Switzerland for an eight-day adventure on the Viking Longship Hlin along four historic European countries. As I board the vessel, I am directed to the main salon where the Program Director gives the guests a welcome. I don’t know it yet but these daily information sessions where she expertly and warmly details what will happen in the next day’s activities will enhance my cruising experience even further. I have my first meal aboard in the Aquavit terrace restaurant, a casual eating alternative to Viking’s main dining room. With my waiter tableside and the chef controlling the
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stove, they kick off my evening with a presentation of Norwegian flatbread, and already I feel like a Viking god. While the flatbread is not one of the vessel’s many regional specialties the restaurants will serve this week, it’s an understandable nod to the men who brought this world the original longships. Back in my veranda stateroom, where floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors exemplify Viking’s philosophy of small ship intimacy and large views of the scenery, I hit the Internet with the ship’s complimentary WiFi signal and sip my welcome-aboard champagne. I unpack, hoping I’ll be able to sleep enough to be rested and ready for the first full day of my getaway.
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hough I fell asleep in Switzerland, I woke up Breisach Germany for “Black Forest Monday.” This day was a cultural mélange, and I say that with a bit of irony, because at this point the Rhine is the border between France and Germany. We make our way on a Mercedes-Benz bus to The Autobahn. Our particularly well-informed guide renders humor, general present day information and a history lesson of both the region and our neighborhood, informing this is Bad Wuertenburg, one 16 German states, and because of its commitment to non-fossil fuel means of energy, this green area of Black Forest had its reputation enhanced when the solar panel was invented in the nearby town of Sulzbach. Not only is this region Germany’s capital for sparkling wine, this state is also home to the third largest wine cooperative in the world behind South Africa and California. We breeze through acres of manicured farmland as we pass orchards of apples, peaches, plums, strawberries and wine grapes on the 90-minute ride to a mountainous section of the Black Forest. Today, the Germans continue a wine-making tradition that was a critical part of the Roman Empire, whose soldiers were guaranteed about one quart of wine per day, and being an understanding empire, each soldier brought a vine for the local winemaker to guarantee production quotas.
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On the tour, we learned that while no one is certain, there is the chance the Romans named it the Black Forest because its density made it dark. In the Middle Ages, farmers regularly got snowed in and cut off from October through May so they carved while shut in and sold cuckoo clocks when they were able to get out, and this led to the region’s fame as a clock factory. With a wonderful morning behind us, the bus returns to Breisach in time for lunch aboard the ship, baked chicken in a honey glaze, some fruit and flatbread, and my waiter Mark already has my first name memorized.
After the meal, I find one of Viking’s true advantages is exemplified: the ability for guests to do as much or as little as they choose: and though the morning event was included in the price of the cruise, I opted to pay an additional charge for Viking’s afternoon excursion to the town of Colmar, scene of one of World War II’s most bitterly contested areas, with the Germans occupying the high ground and the allies being forced into fairly predictable routes of advance in order to avoid a plethora of natural water-based obstacles, the scene was set for protracted battle.
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ith today’s two excursions behind me, back on Hlin, it’s time for dinner in the formal dining room—seared prime ribeye preceded my favorite part of the meal, Black Forest cake. From the outside, its high-rise appearance is thick: chocolate, layers of sponge, cherry schnapps, jam, cream and then some more cream then a covering of cream and a topping of chocolate shavings. However, in the mouth, this dessert’s rich, creamy lightness was the perfect end to a wonderful first day in Europe.For day two, I
head down for breakfast in the traditional dining room. Feeling like a member of the Security Council because we’re docked in Germany, I have an American breakfast in Kehl, Germany, a city infused with French culture, as France is just a few hundred yards across the river. The couple I dine with from London and have been on four other river cruises say they wouldn’t dream of an oceangoing vessel. They prefer the intimacy of this 443-foot longship. The sun deck affords a 360-degree view of the scenery as it glides by.
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The area’s rulers religion, and the cathedral itself which has been Catholic since 1681 was Lutheran, and understandably, the official language has changed between German and French five times in the last century...
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We take a general tour of Strasbourg, seat of the European Parliament, marvel at its early 20th Century architecture, and see the advantage of Medieval covered bridges held when not everyone had a vehicle roof to keep the discomfort of nature off their heads. Our group takes in part of the city’s structural marvel is the single spire cathedral that replaced the original church placed on this area’s highest ground. Our guide informs us that the second spire was never built because the church ran out of money in the early 15th century. The area’s rulers religion, and the cathedral itself which has been Catholic since 1681 was Lutheran, and understandably, the official language has changed between German and French five times in the last century, and the region’s Alemannic dialect is close to Swiss Alemannic. However, today, our walking tour represents a kinder, gentler invasion of a couple dozen tourists. It’s back on board to the dining room for a lunch of salmon, fajitas and fresh fruit with the omnipresent waiters gliding between their tables and the kitchen in a blur. Today’s second takes us west of the Rhine to mountains where vines rooted in the foothills have been producing wine first exported to Flanders in the Middle Ages. As we approach a section of Medieval Wall that has stood for centuries, our bus driver doesn’t seem the least concerned with how this bus will fit through an archway built long before buses were invented. The region’s strict controls on the amount of wine per area that can be termed Alsatian wine, your vineyard must be between about 260 and 500 feet or you’ll get no appellation. Thinking of watering your vines? Forget it if you want the appellation. Strangely enough, though irrigation makes life better for the vine, that help worsens the wine, as the rougher things are on the vine, the better those things make the wine itself. Rocky soil on lee side of the mountain keeps the area in a rain shadow, forcing grapes to work harder. At least that is the firm belief of Albert, the 14th generation vintner whose family has made wine on this land since 1576.
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The next morning, we cruise through the early part of the day. We dock in Mannheim, without so much as a steamroller in sight. On the short bus ride to Heidelberg, our guide allows me to make the connection on the Mannheim music school's pioneering use of wind instruments in orchestral pieces helps me realize why Mannheim Steamroller likely chose their name.
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fter Heidelberg, it’s back to the parking lot and another short bus ride to Gernsheim where as we lunch aboard the Hlin on poached salmon and smoked duck breast with orange salad. The crew casts off for our afternoon of cruising during which our program director lectures on the history of Rhine transport. In 1816 ships began cruising the river and one can still take quick trips on either the Lady Ann or Goethe from that era. Shortly after passing those two vessels, she updates her information by pointing out a house barge with the captain’s car, a swing set, and playground for kids who live aboard until school age then either enroll in boarding school or live on land, usually with a relative. Annually, 172 billion tons of freight move along this busiest river in Europe.
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Two major differences between this and a large seagoing cruise is intimacy. This vessel is perfectly sized to let guests see vast a majority of other cruisers several times per day. Today, however, marks the second major difference between a seagoing vessel and this one: the scenery comes to the ship, and today’s scenery is castles, castles, and more castles. Although I could see everything on one side of the ship from my veranda, I head to the sun deck where the program director is narrating the scenery. As we steam through the Rhine Gorge, a stretch of river so wonderful, UNESCO granted the region World Heritage status. We have a perfect demonstration of how advantageous a hilltop castle is, overlooking a bend where waterborne vessels had to slow, making them easier targets, or spying on a valley through which travelers could be taxed or enemies sighted without passing. After seeing castles from afar, we dock in Koblentz and the late morning bus trip takes us up a hill to visit Marksburg Castle and see what it was like to actually be in one of the fortresses and seats of security for neighboring residents. The cavernous living and dining spaces for the people in charge of the castle are quite a contrast to the blacksmith’s shop and kitchen area where the employees spend so much of their time to ensure the comfort and safety of those in authority. In the afternoon, although free time in the schedule allows me to relax on board, I opt to stroll Koblenz’s narrow streets.
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...the scenery comes to the ship, and today’s scenery is castles, castles and more castles.
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riday brings us to Cologne and the famous rivalry between the city’s east and west sides. Our guide explains a sculpture below the clock on the side of the cathedral overlooking the large square is sticking its tongue out at the area of the city on the east side of the river. In ancient times, the city began high on the hill and far from The riverbank, and its eastward extension contributed to the usual “us vs. them” feud. The congregation kept running out of construction money so it took 632 years to build what we see today. Construction on the east side began in 1248 and was finished first. Ninety percent of the buildings were destroyed in World War II and the cathedral was bombed but as a prewar precaution, all the stained glass had been removed. I’m staring at original work, a 13th Century version of Christianity's Instagram feed, because in those days, literacy was a rare thing and images were literally worth 1,000 words.
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But time has succeeded where explosives have failed. At present, 80 people work in a permanent building alongside the cathedral replacing stone that has deteriorated beyond cleaning. A block away, German construction workers building a bomb shelter in World War II stumbled into the floor from a Roman mansion dating about 200 AD dedicated to Bacchus, their god of wine. Looking down about 25 feet through the window gives me an idea of how far down that period’s ground level was. As we walk away from the Roman architectural site, I spot something that is in stark contrast to east/west Cologne friction—union, our tour group passes three civil weddings, each taking place at 10 a.m., all within a block of the city hall. Our guide tells us morning weddings on workdays are totally normal here. Realizing they won’t have wedding cake for lunch on the Hlin, I decide to make up for it with some more of that great Norwegian flatbread before going on the afternoon 38
excursion to some nearby palaces. We take a 45-minute bus ride to the Falkenlust hunting lodge and the Castle of Augustusburg. The lodge was built in the early 1700s in an area where herons were known to rest on their migration, and because falconry was at that time the highest form of hunting, this ornate eight-room structure was built to the exacting specifications of the local prince elector in a manner so significant and ornate that it, and the neighboring Augustusburg castle, have both been accorded UNESCO World Heritage protection. On the bus ride between the lodge and castle, our guide proves he really is German by literally telling the group, “Because the bus has to drive around the park separating the two structures on our tour, we have a 4 minute and 38 second" drive from the Falkenlust hunting lodge to the Castle of Augustusburg in the German town of Brühl. Although we are on a local street, the brevity and precise length of our journey is ironic because the first section of
the Autobahn, which is quite close by, opened nearby in 1932 and ran between Bonn and Koln. This German State, North Rhine-Westphalia, purchased the property we’re traversing in the 1960s and because it’s close to Bonn, the capital at that time, many state visits took place in Augustusburg, but today I see no heads of state, it’s just locals and tourists. Gardens and the park entrance is free, and visitors from Koln and Bonn enjoy the area. Stepping from the bus and looking around at Augustusburg’s downstairs summer dining room where the Dutch ceramic is made to look like Chinese porcelain, a process so expensive in its day it was called white gold. And speaking of breakables, our guide directs us to Venetian glass in the center of room with running water from a lion’s mouth sculpture. The plumbing lines and pressure system to make this happen made it almost prohibitively expensive. Here,
indoor spaces are entombed with silk floral wallpaper while outside, orange trees shaded caged exotic birds when this residence was in its heyday. The two waiting rooms on the ground floor mimic those above, and though their tiled floors make these rooms cooler in summer, the upper rooms and staircase were much grander so higher profile and more important callers were received upstairs, whose sensibilities were caressed by ornate trim and fantastically elaborate furnishings. Unlike a falcon, we end our day traveling back to the Hlin at ground level to prepare for the final country on this adventure, The Netherlands.
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After yet another tasty breakfast, I’ll whet another appetite by attending a talk held in the main salon on the Golden Age of Dutch painting. Heading up the main staircase to the salon, I reflect on how wonderful this river cruise’s thoroughness and professionalism is. Today’s lecture is in addition to a similar talk the passengers had earlier in the week on how French and German cultures differ, and this approach to the week really creates an immersion experience for the passengers.
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fter the lecture, I am informed on Dutch painting and I go ashore in Kinderdijk, armed with my fill of feasts for the eyes where today’s options were either the included windmill visit or opt for the supplemental trip and go to the 400-acre Giessenlander cheese farm in the nearby area of Alblasserwaard. As the bus pulls up, we are welcomed by Bea, an actual farmer’s daughter. After a walk through of the indoor processing and aging area, we visit the farm’s milking shed and learn that the naming of each of the 250 cows is the first step in creating the family’s signature product, an internationally renown black truffle cheese. Though cows have individual personalities, they’re also creatures of habit and if Jan notices a cow is either missing or acting unusually, he’s aware something’s wrong, and treating each head of cattle like a member of the farm’s team is a major part of this family’s philosophy. On the ride back to the Hlin, with a couple packs of black truffle wheels in my pack, I reflect on what a wonderful trip this experience has been. Viking delivered on their promised voyage of learning, exploration, and understanding. The ship Captain Danelski’s talk in the main salon in which he related personal and professional details, humanized the talented committed professionals on board who anticipated our needs and their land-based compatriots who guided the on-shore excursions. The captain’s four weeks on, two weeks at home, allow him a great balance between work here on the Rhine and his family back in Poland. This is his 17th season with Viking, who rotates their crews through their 60 ship river fleet and this annual assignment has him cruising from April through November. I feel fortunate to have joined him on this adventure.
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FA M
ILY
HO LID AY S IN .. .
PORTUGAL Story By Gina Hines
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Crafted by a husband and wife team who traveled the world, visiting exotic location and staying in luxurious accommodations, before having kids. They wanted to keep the travels going, as a family, and not diminish the style in which they did so. They knew that they were not alone in this desire to maintain a high standard even though there were now children involved. From this, the Martinhal brand was born and the world's first chain of family-friendly five-star resorts came to life.
Southern Portugal Martinhal Sagres is built in a nature park. This hotel is the family-owned flagship property. At only 7 years old, the brand’s message is very clear—Always fivestar level luxury with a family-centric focus. Driving in to this village of luxury villas, you realize that these spacious accommodations are the central focus of the property and it’s instantly evident that the luxury holiday experience starts before you even open the door to your dream family vacation accommodations. These villas are known as Village Houses and range
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in size from one to three bedrooms and these differ from the actual family villas which have as many as five bedrooms. The possibility of two families coming together just became a realistic luxury option. The hotel portion of the resort occupies the smallest space on the property. The villas are the focus. With all the smiling faces and the pitter-pat of tiny feet running around the resort is a joyful reminder that couples who have traveled all over the world together and have now found themselves as parents, have found a new way to vacation in Portugal. Being able to aptly capture the lifelong lifestyle choices that more and more families are making has become a hallmark of the Martinhal brand. Luxury and family are no longer mutually exclusive. The attention to luxury and detail are everywhere. Sir Terence Conran designed the furniture for the hotel, resembling something the famed furniture designer whose innovative designs are a perfect fit for the upscale family resort...no sharp edges for the little ones.
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Genuine five-star dining, genuine five-star service, genuine five-star experience for the entire family! Everything was designed around nature's tonality surrounding the property to bring it inside in the most organic ways. Natural materials from cork to stones and wood are used in the décor of the rooms and guest areas of the hotel. In remaining true to its appeal to the entire family, pops of color are also to be found, exciting the kid in us all. The Martinhal brand prides itself on being authentically Portuguese and has as many items as it can, produced in Portugal. The food is most definitely authentic and as fresh and Portuguese as you could ask for. Everyone is catered to. Baby's menu is baby purée made fresh by the chef in the kitchen, daily. There is even a baby concierge. We told you this was five-star top to bottom, they’ve really thought this through. If you get a bit homesick and want to prepare a meal or snack, every accommodation is self-catering, but you’re right on the beach on the westernmost part of Europe. Who on earth would ever dream about cooking when the chefs are at your service, and you've got loads more things to do than preparing a meal. There are water parks, surfing, biking and everything in between at this luxury beach family holiday in the Portuguese paradise of The Algarve. 46
Luxury throughout the country A perfect location in central Lisbon. In the heart of the big city you will find Martinhal Chiado, Steps from famed Barrio Alto and with its pulsating nightlife and great restaurants. The hotel itself is extremely modern in the existing shell of a 200-year-old Lisbon classic. The exposed ceiling throughout the first floor shows off the building's age with class. A great cafe and bar just off the lobby gives families everything they need for breakfast, inclusive of an antique BMW, parked just inside its doors. Five-star family is a perfect description at this city sanctuary. The sleekly outfitted rooms with washer and dishwasher, all housed behind black lacquer cabinetry with a Nespresso machine on the stark white countertop, sets the tone of the posh urban family retreat. The views from the balcony (secured for safety but able to be opened upon request via concierge) give views of the perfect afterglow when the sun has set and locals and visitors make their way down the stone streets. This is Lisbon with amenities that ensure families don't miss out on the best in hospitality. I can see these kids, twenty years from now, demanding nothing but the best from their holiday choices. Martinhal has set the tone for all future vacations. In Chiado, the hotel has 47 apartments, kids club programs and a pajama club that allows parents to head out and enjoy an evening in this vibrant city, of course, there’s always private babysitting available. The world's first city center luxury family hotel does everything you need it to do, and a little bit more.
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Only miles away from the buzz of Lisbon: Done in the Martinhal style of delivering luxury to the entire family, there are 3 pool areas dotted around the resort to ensure that guests can enjoy pool time with their kids in heated and unheated waters: the Pool Hangout (open in the Summer), the indoor and outdoor pools next to Finisterra Spa and the Kids Clubhouse pool. They’re really taking the family-friendly vacation to the next level, but if you know anything about Cascais, the pool is only the beginning. www.martinhal.com
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Summer Experiences in
Swit zerland
The Chedi Andermatt’s exclusive summer line-up for 2017 in the Swiss Alps
One of the finest properties in Switzerland, The Chedi Andermatt, has announced a unique line-up of summer experiences. We love this composition of activities because it offers guests the opportunity to discover the best of the Swiss Alps and its picturesque villages and pristine mountain beauty with a series of brand new offerings designed to attract the outdoor explorer, golf expert, foodie and indulgent spa-goer. These are our top picks for kicking off the season!
Luxury Golf Express: Twin-Centre St. Moritz & Andermatt This summer, The Chedi Andermatt has partnered with The Kulm Hotel St. Moritz (www.kulm.com) and the famous Glacier Express (www.glacierexpress.ch) to offer a unique four-night Luxury Golf Express package that combines stays in two of Switzerland’s most luxurious hotels and includes spa treatments at each property, rounds of golf in glorious Alpine settings and a spectacular train ride, known to be the slowest express train in the world, between the two glamorous mountain resorts. True swank should be savoured and never rushed.
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Valid through September 3rd, 2017. Prices start from CHF 2,285 per person. Based on a two-night stay at The Chedi Andermatt, followed by a two-night stay at The Kulm St. Moritz.
The Small Cable Car Rally Get a bird’s eye view of the region’s beautiful canyons, waterfalls and mountain lakes as you take to dizzying heights on a traditional Swiss mountain cable car. The day-long excursion includes lunch in a cozy chalet-style restaurant at the top of a mountain, boasting incredible views. Also included is a visit to a local farm for a tasting of artisanal food, where guests can savor a selection of Alpine cheese and cured meats. Guests are provided with a Chedi-branded backpack for the adventure and to tuck away any purchases made along the way. Valid through October 15th, 2017 and prices start from CHF 1,295 per person. Based on a minimum two-night stay.
Goat Trekking In Style For a fun and active experience perfect for the whole family, check-into this two-night package which offers guests a scenic mountain trek among the region’s friendly Alpine goats, including Bärti the goat and his friends. A local expert guide will lead guests through the mountains surrounding Andermatt. The trek includes a picnic-lunch on a mountain meadow where guests can take in the jaw-dropping views and pristine natural environment. In preparation for the trek, The Chedi Andermatt equips guests with an exclusively branded Chedi backpack, theirs to keep.
Spyder or the Audi TTRS Roadster. Valid through July 30th 2017. Guests are encouraged to book with concierge in advance of the stay.
Valid through October 15th, 2017 and prices start from CHF 630 per person. Based on a minimum two-night stay.
Nestled elegantly among the ski chalets of Andermatt, a village of timeless charm in the heart of the Swiss Alps, The Chedi Andermatt, is one of Europe’s finest addresses and a destination in itself for wellbeing, cuisine and outdoor adventures from ski to mountain hiking. The sleek design, conceived by renowned architect and interior designer Jean-Michel Gathy, melds traditional Swiss chalet style with a subtle Asian aesthetic. Just a two-hour train journey from Zurich, The Chedi Andermatt is the idyllic retreat for a stylish summer escape.
Alpine Explorations with Audi
www.thechediandermatt.com
The Chedi Andermatt has partnered with Audi to provide guests with two exclusive cars available to use free of charge during their stay on-property. The Chedi’s car aficionados can leisurely explore the nearby villages and picturesque surroundings in style with the Audi R8 SwankyRetreats.com
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ADVERTORIAL
YARA
THE GLOBAL STEAKHOUSE
In recent years Grand Cayman in the Cayman Islands has been dubbed the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean and when you arrive, it’s easy to see why. The Seven Mile Beach corridor on the island’s West Coast is packed with beachfront hotels, luxe condominiums and a plethora of dining options, from local fare to fine dining. Nestled South of Miami and North West of Jamaica, Cayman is a small island making a big splash on the Caribbean’s culinary scene, especially with its newest restaurant development, YARA The Global Steakhouse. Meaning “the place” in the native Caribbean Taino language, YARA is the latest dining attraction on the Seven Mile strip and recently opened its doors after much anticipation. At the helm is veteran Chef Dylan Benoit, returning to Cayman after a year of travel and food exploration throughout Asia with brief stopovers in Mexico, Australia and Ireland. Being a seasoned traveler, we asked Chef Benoit what it means to be a “Global Steakhouse”. “To me, Global Steakhouse means we can explore cuisines from all over the world with the menu at YARA. Cooking food with a fire and grill is universal, and there are dishes from every corner of the globe that can be researched, tested and put into practice under this concept; which is very exciting. We also plan on taking this brand global with locations outside of the Cayman Islands, and I expect each location will have a slightly different menu, exploring a different culture and cuisine.”
For the flagship location, Chef Benoit and his team have shaken off the shackles of a traditional steakhouse and injected YARA with a large dose of Caribbean influence and a strong nod to Nikkei cuisine. Nikkei cuisine has been developing, particularly in Brazil and Peru, over the last century. An evolutionary style of cooking that blends the traditional dishes and cooking techniques of Japanese immigrants with the immeasurable produce, seafood and wild ingredients available in South America. “I think the best way to describe the menu is playful. My team and I love working with unique ingredients like yuzu, black garlic, aji amarillo and aji panca, purple potatoes and fresh wasabi root, as well as uncommon game meats such as venison striploin, bison ribeye and lamb ribs. We want to challenge the guests a bit, give them something they have never tried before, without coloring too far out of the lines. There is such a consciousness around food these days and the general public is being exposed to more and more cuisines and cultures daily. People are accustomed to eating really, really good food, especially here in Cayman. A guest is not going to come to my restaurant and order something they could cook for themselves, so we are always pushing to prepare and present food in a different way.” Different has always been Chef Benoit’s style. The meal starts out with a daily selection of fresh baked breads and YARA’s signature cold-smoked honey & sea salt butter, followed by a delicate amuse bouche
to whet your appetite. Dishes like the miso baked oysters with cucumber and radish mignonette and the Nikkei style tuna tartare with yuzu red pepper gel and avocado will have you reaching for more before you’ve finished your first bite. The tri-colored quinoa risotto is a creative twist on an old classic, served with sautéed mushrooms, shredded kale and a house made queso crema; it’s delicate, rich and packed with the health benefits of two superfoods. The raw bar at YARA juts out into the lounge next to the bar and offers local tuna, snapper and wahoo. The highest quality salmon flown in from Scotland and Norway is also served to on looking guests, as well as an ever-evolving selection of oysters from all over North America. But of course, steak is the highlight of any great steakhouse, and YARA is no exception. Offering a variety of cuts, sizes and even a selection of dry aged steaks, YARA has everything from delicate and tender filet mignon, to bone in “cowgirl” ribeye and even a two pound Porterhouse to share, or enjoy all on your own. Appealing to a diverse audience, YARA also boasts some unique offerings like the venison striploin, bison ribeye and a Wagyu feature. The rubbed, smoked and sous vide lamb ribs are a unique twist on a southern staple, and the bacon wrapped rabbit saddle with cheddar and kale stuffing is an absolute must-try. Creative cocktails perfectly curated for the Caribbean are a signature here. The YARA Fizz, comprised of rose petal-infused Pisco swirled with fresh lime juice, pineapple juice, a touch of pomegranate syrup and
topped with sparkling wine, is as refreshing as it is delicate. The Gin & Ginger combines smoked rosemary with fresh lemon and house made ginger cordial to create an incredibly unique and dangerously easy-todrink concoction. For something a little stronger, the Veranear is an ode to summertime and a twist on the classic Boulevardier. Using a bitter blend of fresh strawberry, Campari and Aperol mixed with bourbon, sweet vermouth and dehydrated orange. The atmosphere inside YARA is as exciting as the menu. You can feel the beat of the sultry lounge music as you approach the entrance and become whisked away by the simplicity of the contemporary island décor. Reclaimed driftwood and air-brushed murals are scattered throughout the indoor and outdoor dining areas as Himalayan pink salt candles omit a soft glow from the tables. Large comfortable chairs invite you to melt into your seat as the music floats through your ears and the steak melts in your mouth. Exciting, enticing and inviting, there is no doubt that YARA is “the place” to eat in Cayman. YARA Global Steakhouse, 269 West Bay Road at Margaritaville Beach Resort Kitchen open 5pm-10pm 7 days a week Bar and Raw Bar open: Sunday - Wednesday: 5pm-11pm Thursday - Friday: 5pm-1am Saturday: 5pm-12am For reservations, please call 1.345.640.6441
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ON
THE
H IN
ANT
LUNC
AU R
ALGARVE
ILY • ONE REST AM
LAND • ONE F S I E
Story By Peta Phipps
D
eserted island experiences usually don’t come with an over-the-top restaurant where fresh is an understatement. Sat directly on the edge of the island where the currents meet and collide…some may say it's unfair, a bit like shooting fish in a barrel, as the catch is spawned nearby in the shallows and then head out to sea via a deep channel, only yards away from the kitchen. Sounds like a winning location to us, maybe not to the sea life, but tasty nonetheless. The island is a protected area, so infrastructure is nonexistent. This means meaning the restaurant, which can be the only “inhabitant”, had to produce its own energy and make its own drinking water, among other ecochallenges. They’ve done a marvelous job of fitting in in an unobtrusive way, while standing out and grabbing the attention of every taste bud lucky enough to wander in. Reaching the island is the first step in getting lost for the day and where the adventure begins. Accessible only by arrival from the sea, you can catch a ferry or
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take a speedboat to get to Estaminé. Be certain to watch the shoreline if you come over during high tide, you’ll be gobsmacked to see the drastic drop in the water level on your way back to mainland Portugal. The family began the restaurant here as a shack. Esteminé has flourished and become a gorgeous restaurant built to blend in with the natural landscape of this windswept island. We hear that from above, it resembles a crab. Now that is really trying to blend in to your surroundings. Experiencing the island is a necessity. The fresh-caught fish could hardly be fresher as it's all from just off the shores of the island. The nutrient-rich environment of the unique tidal shifts produces a tasty catch. The lagoon estuary feeds directly into the roiling currents of the Atlantic. Being able to see the two bodies of water come together (on your plate) makes every bite even more delectable. The service is exceptionally prompt and genuinely welcoming. We catch ourselves expressing this same sentiment repeatedly here in Portugal. There's definitely something in the water.
INSIDER'S TIP: Order the “Beach” shrimp. We won’t ruin the experience for you, but it’s the most unique preparation of shrimp we have ever experienced and the taste is unbeatable. Stroll around the island after lunch and at the very least one bottle of wine and enjoy everything from sand dunes to crashing waves. There's a calm lagoon side and an entire island to explore, sometimes it's difficult to find anyone else for quite a while, so let your imagination be your guide. www.estamine.deserta.pt
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Changes in Latitudes, Changes in Attitudes.
Margaritaville Beach Resort Grand Cayman invites you to change your latitude for a tªYá à YĄĄĄď YĄ Ąª òøĄ ﶶ¬ø òĘt Yòjj Yà +Yò¡YòĄYʶ¶ = øÊòĄ Yà ĚÚ ò Ãt Y øďìøÊYµ } ďà Êò¡ ĄĄYj¶ Êt YÃĘ ę ĘYtYĄÊÃà 269 West Bay Rd | Grand Cayman KY1-1204 | Cayman Islands | 1 855 640 6440 | MargaritavilleResortGrandCayman.com
ROAD TRIP SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
P
ortuguese explorers are responsible for discovering so much of the New World and leaving their mark all across the globe. We decided to take a road trip and explore a little bit of Portugal ourselves. Here is an excellent itinerary for you to discover some of the best of the Algarve.
Alcoutim
DA DA DAY AY Y1
Aljezur
Silves
La Lag ag gos Lagos
V. Bispo
Castro Marim
Monchiq Monchique
Loulé
S. Brás
Portimão P ortimã ão
Lagoa
Albufeira A ra
Tavira avira
Faro
Olháo
DAY 1
Western Coast and Lagos
9 am - Visit Cape St.Vicent Fortress and Lighthouse, most south western point of mainland Europe. Amazing sunsets here to see also.
10 am – Visit Sagres Fortress – Built by the Prince Henry the Navigator in 15th century as a nautical school, to start the Portuguese Discoveries of Brazil, Africa and the nautical routes to India and Asia, a place of great historical and symbolic value. 11 am – Head north along the coast to ALJEZUR and discover the unspoiled beautiful and famous surfing beaches like Amado, Carrapateira, Arrifana and Odeceixe as well as with washed small villages.
3 pm – Head east and visit the historical city of Lagos, inhabited since 2.000 B.C., on the 15th and 16th century’s was the main port of arrival and departure of the vessels that explored the African coast. Visit Lagos City Walls, Ponta da Bandeira Fort and church of Santo António and the Museum on the side. Don’t miss the rock formations of Ponta da Piedade from the top or by boat visiting the caves. Also visit the beautiful beaches of Porto de Mós, Camilo, and Dona Ana.
V.R.S Antonio
Alcoutim
DA D DAY AY A Y2
Aljezur
Silves
Lagos
V. Bispo
Castro Marim
Monchiq Monchique
Loulé
S. Brás
Portimão ortimão mão
Lago La L a oa Lagoa
Al A lbufeira b ra Albufeira
Tavira
V.R.S Antonio
Faro
Olháo
DAY 2
Monchique, Silves, Portimão and Lagoa
9 am – Head to the inland to Monchique Mountain and go to the highest point of the Algarve Fóia peak 902mts., beautiful view of the west and south coast. In Monchique taste the famous local gastronomy of smoked ham and traditional sausages and of course the famous “moonshine” beverage the Medronho. As well as the craft shops and pottery. On the way down the mountain don’t miss out Caldas de Monchique, an amazing thermal spa area used since the times of the romans which they considered to be “sacred” and cured rheumatism and respiratory problems. 11:30 am – Head down to the coast and along the way if are a motorsports fan go the Algarve Motor Park, with a car/bike racing track including a race driving school with several driving experiences, as well as karting track and an off-road track. OR 11:30 am – Head down to the coast and in Portimão visit the nearby fishing village of Alvor and its beautiful beaches and coastline. Then head to Praia da Rocha one of the main tourist centers of the Algarve Region, you can find good hotels, restaurants bars, and nightlife in this area. Also, visit the fortress of St.Catarina built in 1629 has a beautiful view over the Marina and the Arade River. In downtown Portimão, visit the award winning Municipal Museum located on old canned fish factory and taste the famous Portuguese Grilled Sardines on the restaurants along the riverbank.
2 pm – Cross the old bridge over the river heading east, and visit the beaches of Ferragudo and Carvoeiro with their colourful fishing boats, the nearby unusual rocks at Algarseco shaped by the wind and the sea, several caves in this area only are accessible by sea, like the Benagil Cave (Algar of Benagil).
3 pm – In Estômbar village visit the Quinta dos Vales Winery, for a wine tasting, with their excellent wines and the sculptures spread over the vineyards.
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4pm – Heading further east visit the very small chapel of Nossa Senhora da Rocha, built in the 15th century on a rock formation that stretches out to the sea. 4:30pm – From Lagoa City where you can visit one of the biggest private art gallery in Europe, located on the old Winery Cooperative site, you can now head north for about 8km to the surrounded by orange trees City of Silves. Silves was the first capital of the Algarve in 1249 when it was conquered by the 3rd king of Portugal to the Moorish. Silves was well known already in the 8th century for its development and prosperity, it was a cultural centers with the most brilliant Moorish poets, chroniclers, and jurists. In the city, you can visit the red sandstone Castle, the Cathedral both national monuments and the archaeology museum.
Alcoutim
DA DA DAY AY Y3
Aljezur
Silves
Lagos
V. Bispo
Castro Marim
Monchiq Monchique
Loulé
S. Brás
Portimão rtimã ão
Lagoa
Albufeira Albu A ra a
Tavira
Fa F Faro
Olháo
DAY 3
Albufeira, Loulé, Vilamoura, Quinta do Lago and Vale do Lobo
9am – Albufeira, which the name in Arabic means “Castle-on-the-Sea” is regarded today as the “capital” of tourism in Algarve, a very cosmopolitan city with dozens of hotels, restaurants and a popular nightlife, it tends to be very crowded on summer time. But it’s a “must go area” with beautiful beaches some forming small coves and bays with rock formations like Castelo Beach, St. Rafael, St.Eulália and Olhos d’Água with fresh water springs rising in the sand to large golden sandy beaches with dunes and also to the east the famous Falésia beach with its red cliffs. Craft shops downtown and the nightlife in Oura beach area are also not to be missed. As well as the fantastic Ocean and wildlife theme park the Zoomarine in Guia. 12pm – At Loulé, you can also find remains previous to the Arab occupation, the Loulé Castle military architecture is still an example of those times, inside the castle you can visit the municipal museum with a lot of archaeological artifacts. The beautiful churches and also the fish and farmers market are also worth visiting. A day visit to the biggest water slide park in Algarve the AquaShow in Quarteira is also great for the younger ones.
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3pm – Before going to Vilamoura make a small detour to S. Lourenço-Almancil and visit the amazing church all covered inside with Portuguese tiles. Vilamoura, is one of the largest Europe’s touristic and real estate developments, in this open leisure complex garden city you can find besides the several golf courses, cycle tracks, tennis courts, casino, horse riding centre and off course the biggest Marina in Portugal with luxury boats set among delightful surroundings of outdoor cafes and restaurants and sophisticated shops. Integrated into its environmental park beside the hundred different species of birds you can also visit the Cerro da Vila an archaeological site of a roman fishing villa from the 1st century AD and with records of previous occupancy of the 27 century BC. 4pm – Vale do Lobo and Quinta do Lago are amongst the most exclusive resorts in Europe, some world celebrities have their holiday homes here, high-end hotels and properties situated on the middle of golf courses and dense garden touristic complex. Here is where it starts the Ria Formosa Natural Park and to reach the beach you have to cross a 300mt walking bridge, one of the longest in Europe. cout uttim im Alcoutim
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DAY 4
Tavira, Vila Real Stº António, Castro Marim and Alcoutim
9am – Tavira was most probably founded by the Phoenicians, but it was the Romans who left the most significant traces from the pre-Islamic period on the region example of that is the famous Roman Bridge that crosses the Gilão river downtown. Inside the Castle of Tavira, of Arab origin and rebuilt in the 13th Century, there’s a pleasant flower garden where you can enjoy a view over the city, next to it is the National Monument Santa Maria of the Castle main church built also in the 13th century on top of where it once stood the Tavira Mosque. Close by is the Convent of Graça built in 1542 and recently remodeled to host a Pousada (Hotel in a historical Monument). There are dozen other churches in Tavira that also worth the visit. Catch the ferry to visit the 61
fantastic beaches of Tavira Island or go to small fishing village of Santa Luzia and taste the famous octopus traditional dishes and catch the ferry to Terra Estreita Beach or in alternative by a small train connecting the resort of Praia D’el Rei to Barril Beach where it lies a “graveyard” of anchors. (used in the past to anchor the Tuna catching net traps)
12pm – Heading east visit historical center and fortress of the village of Cacela Velha, marvelous view from the Ria Formosa Natural Park lagoon that here reaches its end after a 60km stretch.
1pm – Despite existing there a small village, it was not until 1774 that the city of Vila Real de Santo António was born, following a political decision to affirm the Portuguese crown in an area desired by Spain. It was built in 2 years following the architectural fashion at the time, which explains the geometric layout of the streets. The 19th century brought great prosperity to the canned fish industry and the proximity with Spain, now it’s mainly focused on tourism. Great place to taste traditional gastronomy focusing on the Tuna Fish and all fish in general, Big long Sandy beach from Cacela until Vila Real known as the Monte Gordo Bay, great for athletics athletes that come here on the low season and it’s great for kids in the summer due to its shallow waters on the low tide.
3pm – Castro Marim, with great strategic importance since the time of the Phoenicians, was at the time surrounded by water and served as a harbor for boats which sailed up the Guadiana River to collect the copper that was extracted further north. In here you can visit the Medieval Castle built in the 13th century and also the São Sebastião Fortress from the 17th Century. Today, Castro Marim is also surrounded by salt pans, where is collected the gastronomic delicacy “Salt Flower”, sold up to 10 times the price of normal salt due to its organoleptic characteristics.
5pm – With records of occupancy since 2500 B.C, Alcoutim was known in those times for the mining industry with easy access routes of transportation down the Guadiana river. Here you can visit the castle and archaeology museum and cobbled streets. Try also the local traditional gastronomy that is different from the one on the coastline and also try to swim in the river beach “Pego Fundo”. The hiking route Via Algarviana starts/ finishes here. Enjoy the journey. www.algarvepromotion.pt
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Sustainable An independent city-state about half the size of New York City’s Central Park has a surprisingly large footprint and it intends to leave as minimal of a carbon one as possible. What the Principality of Monaco intends to leave as an impression on the world is more than a dashing prince and his family, races, yachts and casinos. This powerhouse of a destination is aware of its place in the sun, along France’s Mediterranean coastline and the grand shadow it casts around the globe. In an organic transition towards more sustainability, Formula E, the Monaco ePrix, was created to reinvent racing, this is the championship sport for electric car racing and where else better than on the same streets of the Grand Prix itself. A few countries that take part in the races are: Singapore, Malaysia, Russia, Belgium, Spain, United Arab Emirates, Greece, Bahrain, Qatar, Monaco, New Zealand, India, and Pakistan showcasing what a global citizen Monaco is. There’s a forward-thinking momentum in Monaco that will not be stopped. Guests are encouraged to embrace the Monaco that intends to be around for centuries to come and be a part of their enthusiastic approach to sustainability.
MONACO TERRE DE MONACO ORGANIC URBAN FARMING Next time you’re in town, take some time to savor a bit of Monaco that not everyone has had a chance to see taste. Terre de Monaco is an innovative project that promotes organic urban farming on roofs, terraces and around buildings in the Principality. Young plants, fruits and vegetables can now be bought at the local open-air and covered Condamine Market. www.terredemonaco.com A number of Monaco’s hotels have taken on initiatives of their own with regard to sustainability without impacting the true luxury experience that is a Monégasque vacation. Now you can play with a sense of sustainability in one of the world’s swankiest destinations. www.visitmonaco.com
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Trident Hotel
Port Antonio, Jamaica Story By Danielle Krause Photography by Andrew Innerarity
In this former British Colony, driving the North Coast Highway from Montego Bay east to Port Antonio, I pass expanses of green landscapes, sugarcane, and banana plantations spread along the foothills to my right, the dark blue Caribbean Sea on my left. The ‘highway’ is dotted with tiny villages whose brightly colored walls and zinc roofs homes are often barely larger than the equally colorful makeshift stands, bars, and eateries selling mangos, guavas, otaheite apples, breadfruit, patties, and coconut water, all staples for locals and tourists, I am tempted to stop but the brilliant white full moon arcing through the particularly pink dusk, coaxes me toward Port Antonio. It’s evening as I reach the midpoint of my trip, I bear left in downtown Ocho Rios, spurred by Noel coward’s refrain and lured by Ian Fleming’s espionage novels’ storylines, I flash past a sidewalk party blasting what else, classic Reggae by none other than an actual Jamaican, Bob Marley.
It was while visiting Ian Fleming’s property Goldeneye that Noel Coward so fell in love with the island that he decided to buy his own property, Firefly. Fleming found enough unspoiled beauty, rusticism, exoticism and history to inspire his creativity and authored more than a dozen Bond novels in his home just up the road. My five hour drive ends at a tall nondescript white wall whose stylized “T” and large wooden gates, mark the exclusive Trident Hotel. Once inside, Shantiqua greets me with a most welcome tall glass of chilled coconut water and refreshing ice cold, lemongrass towelettes. The staff is as gracious and inviting as the pristine sleek décor. Past the two Brancusi statues, onto an open grassy veranda, lighted narrow reflecting pools in the walkway precede the infinity swimming pool. Beyond that lies only sea. Following Travis, my bellman, I make a left and we head down the palm tree lined pathway to my very private dwelling.
One of 13, my seaside villa is elegantly spacious and breezy. Furnished in mid-century Scandinavian and modern (Saarinen, Ginosa, Eames) great care has been given to all details, from the eclectic art collections, imported wood floors, Apple TV, JBL boom boxes, everything is top of the line. The rooms’ primarily white décor, accented by dark wood furnishings. The spacious bathroom appointments and outdoor tub are by Tyrell and Laing, Hans Grohe, and Kohler, the plush Egyptian cotton towels will dry me luxuriously before I put on the robe and slippers. Heading through the glass living room doors I step onto the private deck for a relaxed look at the moon reflected in the dipping pool. In the morning I’ll swim to the edge and scan the coast in both directions, where there will doubtless be fishermen in wooden boats spearing and catching dinner. I could start the day wet and finish up dry, this villa is a perfect place for the sunrises and sunsets that turn the blue Caribbean black and red. Byron brings my seaside dinner at Trident’s Veranda restaurant overlooking grazing sheep sculptures, and the large infinity pool. He’s been here ‘from the beginning’ (over 30 years) when the original Trident existed and has great stories to share, including the evolution of the property. Back in the ‘50's the Trident Villas were built by architect Earl Levy, as hotel rentals, nestled between Turtle Crawle Bay and the sea. In the late ‘70's Levy began construction on his dream project, the iconic sprawling Trident Castle. Fashioned in the 18th century English colonial style, white turrets and all, the 8 bedrooms is a surprisingly small number contrast its breathtaking ballroom, exquisite dining hall, spacious living rooms, myriad stairways and terraces. About a decade of fitful construction was needed to complete this gleaming extravaganza. No expense was spared and the rooms are still decorated with beautiful antiques from around the world, Roman statues, glistening chandeliers, and a pair of stone alligators that guard the oversized entrance.
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If you visit, be sure to ask for the story behind the humorous expression of this reptilian couple. Levy lived here a short time before selling the whole 7 acres to the most recent owner, investor Michael Lee Chin. Trident Castle is now rented out for special occasions; film-shoots, celebrity weekend getaways, and weddings (there’s even an ordained chapel on the property). This short seaside walk from the villas to the castle should be a must for all guests. Just make sure you let the front desk know, as there is always a guard with his dog protecting the property. Trident now owns about 35 acres of land and until the new public road is rerouted to pass outside the property, the short wall might not be enough to keep out the curious. Financial investment magnate Michael Lee Chin originally from Port Antonio, started as grounds keeper at a nearby property before moving to study in Canada. Extremely successful, he returned to the island, investing in land, hotels, coffee and even bought the Jamaican bank that had originally made him his student loan. Chin purchased the villas in 2003, acquired Trident Castle and it’s 7 acres in 2009 and began extensive renovations. The new Trident opened in 2012. 68
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I begin tonight’s dinner with fried yam and mackerel paté, followed by grilled red snapper in a sweet soursop sauce, accompanied by callaloo (similar to collard greens) and lightly steamed veggies (everything is organically farmed.) The yummy finish to this delicious meal is the chocolate temptation, a triple chocolate mousse beneath almond crumble. Back in my villa, I decide to take a moonlit soak in the outside bathtub, accompanied by the sound of gentle waves breaking on the rocks before sinking into my huge bed for a most welcome night’s sleep. The new day begins the way its predecessor ended, with a gorgeous pink sky, I take breakfast on the veranda: A cornucopia of tropical fruits, scrambled eggs, pancakes with maple syrup and a pot of 100% Blue Mountain Coffee and friendly chats with the staff on food prep, job satisfaction and the weather are the perfect start to my day of luxuriating.
Down the manicured path that leads past my villa, behind the Secret Garden-esque portico, a door opens to a private champagne colored beach surrounding a built up natural cove. Arthur the Lifeguard sets up my beach chair and is another great storyteller, answering my many questions about the ecology here. Trident’s many partnerships include the Marine Sanctuary and there is a protected fish nursery in the first of two coves as one swims to the open waters. Here you find at least 5 different fish; parrot, grunt, snapper, sergeant major, doctor fish, and lobster. With his calm expert guidance, I have my first paddleboard experience, which is a fun way to see the huge property from the water. He offers all kinds of activities, from table tennis, soccer and football, to snorkeling, windsurfing, and swimming lessons, “it’s all about relaxing and trusting”. If you prefer to just be pulled around on an air mattress, Trident will do that too. Arthur informs me that I can have any of my meals served wherever I wish, on the beach, by the pool, in my villa. It seems that my every expectation and wish can be fulfilled here at Trident and the staff prides itself in anticipating and attending to their guests every need.
After a long day in and out of the water, I finish up with a light dinner and the Dustin Hoffman movie “Quartet” in the large upstairs digital audio and high intensity-LCD projectorequipped entertainment theatre, The healthy movie selection that supplements Trident’s Netflix subscription, available either in here or the villas, made it hard for me to settle on Hoffman. After the movie, I grab an exotic fruit drink downstairs at the Time Bar, where some of the finest Cuban rums and delicious blended drinks are created, before heading next door to shoot a game of pool on the Explorer’s Lounge antique pool table. The large, comfortable living room area has a huge bookshelf displaying variety art and literature tomes, board games on one wall and the old upright piano on the opposite wall. The pouring rain awakens me the second morning but I’m relieved it’s just a squall, typical of this time of year and passes within a few minutes. Breakfast is a more Jamaican affair today, scrambled eggs, fried bammy (cassava), salt fish and baked beans, more callaloo, yams, boiled green bananas and the requisite blue mountain coffee. Trident’s General Manager Dwight Powell, a veteran luxury hotelier, has agreed to meet me this morning for a grand tour of the Castle and the region beyond the hotel.
We walk east down Trident’s recommended jogging trail toward Pegg Point, and adjust our pace to ensure sea spray doesn’t get us on a section of pathway particularly close to the water. Passing sea grape trees Dwight fills me in on some of the environmental organizations Trident partners with. Since much of the water off this property is now a marine sanctuary and consequently off limits to fishing, CASE (College of Agricultural, Science and Environment) is now retraining local fishermen as certified scuba instructors and guides to promote this area as a perfect diving destination with an emphasis on conscious, environmentally sustainable tourism and hotel management. The Alligator Head Foundation and Marine Labs is another of Trident’s partners with whom they plan to open another “Red Rooster” restaurant with chef Marcus Samuelsson of the Food Network. Across the street from us is the Trident Castle Furniture Restorations Project, where many of the castle’s antiques are restored and much of the villas’ furniture is built. Built in the 50's by architect and developer, Earl levy, used the proceeds he earned from building the nearby Jamaican Palace to purchase the Trident Castle land. This dream project took 10 years to complete and Levy remained onsite during the construction, living in each room until its completion. Getting back to those two big alligators guarding the front of the castle, visitors are challenged to determine each one’s sex. Sliding one’s hand under the croc’s lower belly will answer the riddle. This challenge is a small indication of Levy’s oversized, madcap sense of humor, who, before selling the castle, made Trident THE hang out spot in Jamaica in the ‘80's hosting visitors like Tom Cruise, Whoopi Goldberg, Kevin Klein, Kate Moss, Denzel Washington and many more are all welcome to return and find property-wide WiFi and flat screen HD TVs have been added to the Old World Elegance and traditional commitment to service that goes above and beyond guests’ expectations. Walking back to the Hotel down the long driveway lined with 50-year old casuarina trees, Dwight points out Trident’s brand new full-service spa and beauty salon whose treatment rooms, which open to the sea, allow guests to hear waves breaking on the rocks below. Again only the finest materials have been used to ensure that this offers top of the line services. The spa sits on the far side of the reception and restaurant area as well as from the large recently renovated state-of-the-art gym, which is open 24 hours a day.
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the 1950s. In its prime in the ‘70,s The Cove was one of the island’s most luxurious and beautiful properties. The scenery is a compelling enough back-drop for scenes in Tom Cruise’s and Cameron Diaz’s movie Knight and Day, whose locations are a stone’s throw from the phenomenally turquoise colored Blue Lagoon, where some of the scenes in the Brooke Shields movie of the same name were shot.
Because Trident encourages its guests to go out and explore the island’s spectacular beauty, Dwight and I head off property by car. Heading past the Castle, what is an exploration for me is a routine exercise of Dwight’s total familiarity with the area. He tells me Port Antonio, with its population of around 8000, is in its developmental stage, offering great opportunities for growth and development. Luckily most of this is being done intelligently and sustainably. This part of the island is a lot like what Negril was like in 60's & 70's before the massive development and over construction. Apparently, the Jamaican government is developing this strategically and mindfully, keeping the focus on quality rather than quantity.
Winding along the coastline, we are heading to the birthplace of authentic Jerk Cuisine, Boston’s Portland Jerk. This style of cooking was born of the Maroons, slaves who had escaped to the mountains where they combined their African techniques for cooking meat with the spices native to Jamaica. This unique distinctly sweet, tangy, spicy flavor relies on smoking meat with pimento (allspice) wood under zinc. Traditionally, since this cooking is made for the whole family, freshly caught or hunted meat is slowly smoked and the spiciness is then added into the sauce. We grab our food to go, headed to nearby Boston Beach, surely one of the island’s most beautiful. Sitting in rented beach chairs overlooking the brilliant turquoise bay we watch the locals surf while the children play and others relax in the shade. Enjoying our meal of perfectly jerked, tender chicken, festival (sweet baked bread sticks) smashed sweet potato, fried green plantain and feel grateful.
Dwight also informs me that tourism started on the island via the banana and other exported crops trade, with enterprising ship owners and intrepid tourists realizing they could each take advantage of empty cargo ships returning to Jamaica. In the time it takes me to hear the story we are passing through the town of Drapers, where Woody’s Burgers are supposedly well worth the wait, the service is slow but the burgers come highly recommended. Continuing through the area called San San, Dwight shows me Frenchman’s Cove, owned by the Weston family since
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Portland’s year-round sunshine, with the exception of the rainy months of May and June, plus the warm climate gives its largest town, Port Antonio, incredibly luscious rain forest vegetation. Located just north of the Blue Mountains, this is the wettest and greenest part of the island. Another fascinating and unique excursion to experience authentic and timeless Portland Parish is a relaxing three-hour raft ride down the beautiful Rio Grande River with Captain Horace guiding passengers on a long bamboo raft he made himself. We drift down a waterway whose original rafts brought bananas from plantations on either side of the river to ships waiting at the mouth of the Rio Grande. Apparently, Errol Flynn was the one who popularized this timeless transportation mode by inviting his guests to moonlit river rafting excursions. Stepping from the raft into the cab Trident arranged to bring me to and from the river, I am struck by the variety this stay offers, a short time ago I enjoyed an outdoor meal served on a paper plate by Belinda, who had walked an hour from her home, carrying food and pots she uses at Belinda’s Canteen, the open air kitchen and dining area whose wood fire and heated rocks are the stoves she uses to prepare tourists’ meals.
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Having eaten lunch in the jungle by the banks of the Rio Grande, my dinner reservation is indoors back at the hotel where Mike’s Supper Club regularly jumps on Saturday nights. Trident’s GM, Dwight informs me that the excellent cuisine at this cabaret lounge, with its private speakeasy vibe, is not to be missed. Accompanied by Paul’s beautiful refrain to Misty on the 1917 Ferrari Red Steinway Baby Grand, I enjoy my last scrumptious meal at this amazing hotel. Again, I am amazed at variety of vegetables and tropical fruit that grow here in abundance. One of the many wonderful things in Jamaica is the food where “Ital is Vital” makes up an intrinsic part of the culture, and whose Rastafarian term describes the sustainable, organic, close to the earth living, a philosophy that embraces a pure, plant-based, reaping the fruits of one’s labor lifestyle, in order to maintain the best physical and spiritual health. I have been so spoiled and looked after by the spectacular beauty of this place and the attentive and expert care of Trident’s staff. Staffing the property with approximately 30 ensures that there are typically two staff members for each guest.
Though Portland seems remote there are many ways to get here: By land, a 5-hour drive from Montego Bay or 3 hours from Kingston. By air, the nearby airports accommodate business jets and chartered propeller aircraft from Kingston, Montego Bay or Negril. Helicopter service for $1,200 US gets from Kingston to Trident’s private helipad in about 15 minutes. The resort offers promotions to guests who stay 5 or more nights in the largest villa, which includes Mercedes car pickup service at any of these locations. There is talk about improving the road to Kingston, which would significantly reduce drive time around the island’s east end. By sea, arrivals can either anchor out and tender in to Trident’s private beach or dock in the nearby Errol Flynn Marina where the Ken Wright cruise ship terminal also services smaller exclusive luxury ships. Making a tiny effort to go a little bit out of my way has proven to be amazingly rewarding. I haven’t the superlatives to express the beauty and professionalism the Trident Hotel and Villas has to offer. This secluded, romantic, exclusive property’s spectacular destination has been honored with, among other awards: TripAdvisor's 2016 # 1 ranking luxury hotel, # 1 Top small hotel in the Caribbean, Traveler’s Choice 2017 winner and the GQ rating of the “coolest spot in Jamaica.” I’ll fondly remember my time at Trident forever. www.thetridenthotel.com
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Story By Peta Phipps
I’m on my way to the hottest European destination of 2017 and possibly of this generation. Everywhere you look someone is posting something about this country. If you’ve come across any of these posts or pictures of this brilliant and diverse destination, you’ll agree with my next sentiment. There was no way I was going to let a year slip by without returning to Portugal. My first trip was a quick four-day visit to the city of Lisbon and a few of those nights were spent in what I like to refer to as a dream; the town of Sintra. This town sits in the foothills of the Sintra Mountains and can best be described as a dream because it is exactly that. It’s made up of palaces and castles and summer homes of royal families that are quintessentially the backdrop of every fairytale. As dreamy as that part of the country is, this time around, I was heading south to the Algarve. I had yet to explore or experience this part of Portugal and had heard only good things about it. There were those people, few and far between who had described the Algarve as full of tourists and nothing more than a collection of beach towns. I think those folks only scratched the surface and saw what they wanted to see. This region is rich in history, gastronomy, warmth and captivating views. To call it a collection of beach towns would be considered nothing short of shortsighted. I feel a little silly getting so excited about sharing it because it’s not new. It’s not at all a find that has been brought current to compete with other fun and sun destinations, and that’s exactly why I fell in love with it. It is authentic in its presentation of itself. The Algarve shares with you exactly what it is without need to boast or pretend it is something that it is not. Whitewashed fishing villages give way to unyielding cliffs that soften into ancient towns where vintage is the order of the day and has been for centuries. This southernmost region of Portugal whose central coast lies between the towns of Faro and Lagos but stretches from west of Tavira to the easternmost point in Sagres, with beat-skipping moments for your heart at almost every turn.
Starting off with the most obvious of places, the undeniably impressive coastline, I began to take in the grandeur of yet another of Portugal’s treasures and it was at that moment I realized that I was barely able to comprehend the humility of the Portuguese. With sea-views this captivating, the calling of the sea so inescapable, it is no wonder Portuguese explorers of the Elizabethan Era went off to discover so much of the new world. The riches they had at home those...though, beyond what treasures they returned with, were what had me in a state of near bewilderment as to how they remained so humble. This is a great country! Couple that fact with its people being warm, welcoming and hospitable to travelers from all corners of the world and you’ve found an almost magical formula. I know it is getting its fair share of attention these days, but don’t be alarmed when I tell you, it’s been quite the hub of activity here on the Iberian Peninsula for centuries. Today it seems more than venturing out and exploring new worlds, the world is coming to Portugal. The usual souvenirs are to be found everywhere, from cork to cocks perched on top of corks, to cans of sardines, yes sardines are oft times sold in gift shops here, they are that prevalent a part of the Portuguese society. Knowing this, I actually popped in for a visit to a museum dedicated to the hard work of preparing and canning sardines—The Museu de Portimão. This place is more interesting than you might expect. Be prepared to learn everything about how the process worked and you’ll gain a new understanding and appreciation for the next can of sardines you open.
Opening myself a little more to this area, I spent an afternoon in Lagos on Segway. I never knew how much fun people were having touring cities and towns on these things. I saw the entire town without breaking a sweat and far more quickly than I could have on foot. The “cobblestoned” streets, paved with Portuguese pavement and not cobble, was even more captivating from just a couple of feet above as I glided over the decorative stones on my machine for the day. I should have felt guilt not walking, after indulging in the cities famous marzipan cakes in the shape of a fish no less. Not only did I not feel guilty, but was driven immediately to Bela Vista Hotel & Spa, a Relais & Chateaux property, where I gleefully had a four-hour lunch that consisted of nine courses. The food and service were both stellar and I can see why they are aiming for a Michelin Star this year. Lunch at the hotel’s restaurant, Vista was more than any culinary explorer could hope for and one I was most certainly not expecting. Life is good in 78
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the Algarve. After such a nice long lunch, with each course paired with wines, I did manage to squeeze in a little walking. I got to explore this intimate hotel. My favorite part is the original mansion from 1918, where I was spoiled for choice but the Junior Suite captured my imagination. This is a uniquely positioned and designed hotel, no two ways about that fact. Perched on the edge of a cliff with stately architecture and refined interiors, I could wander these grounds all afternoon and never get bored. I like looking out to sea from the lap of luxury and making up tales with friends. We pretend as though we are living in the previous century, but with all the current five-star services and amenities Bela Vista offers. Imagining scenarios about the sea is always fun, but now we have pools and our choice of either indoor and outdoor. Although its history surrounds you and being caught up in daydreams is easy, the luxurious reality here seems is well worth your attention.
After a while, I knew the time for me to explore and check-in to another hotel had come. It was time for me to head to Vila Vita Parc. The transportation took me from 1918 to present day in no time. This resort was sprawling and intriguing. It was home to Ocean, a 2 Michelin Star restaurant, only steps away from my suite. How appropriate is that for me? Although I had not intended to gastronomically gallivant my way through the Algarve, it seemed impossible to avoid excellent food and service. At Vila Vita, this proved to be exceptionally challenging. The 10 restaurants at the resort left little room for me to even think about leaving to grab something “different” to eat. They offer casual beachside dining, rustic Portuguese that leaves your mouth watering and even Japanese. The gastro experience here was far from an afterthought, it appears to be at the center of every guest’s stay. In addition to the meals, there’s a wine cave that I had the pleasure of dining in. Surrounded by over 11,000 bottles of wine, we had candles lit and a sommelier to provide us with expert knowledge of each wine we enjoyed. Our taste buds were quite at home here and barely wanted to wake up the next morning to head out for an extreme off-road Jeep safari adventure. Extremo Ambiente took us on the ride of a lifetime. We hit dirt roads and small villages, went through fields and climbed mountains. The journey was far more adrenaline-pumping than any old tour around town. I was happy I went but started to miss my suite back at Vila Vita, and a long warm bath before my next meal was in order. That Jeep safari left me a little dusty.
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Over the next few days, I think the need for speed and adrenaline rushes somehow increased. Had Extremo Ambiente awakened something in me? I dare say they had. By the time we arrived at our next resort, Epic Sana Algarve, I’d concocted an itinerary for the next day that I hoped the concierge could pull off for me. I needed some action, so as soon as we were checked in, I sauntered over to the concierge and whispered my wishes in his ear and with a smile he said, “It will be my pleasure.” Those are really the only words I needed to hear. Knowing I had left my desires in very capable hands, we trotted off to discover the resort. From our suite’s balcony, I could see the expansive lawns, the sea and a tree that stood out from all the rest. This tree appeared to have inorganic red and white things springing from its branches. Curiosity got the best of me and off we set to find said tree. When we found it, there they were, red and white wooden hearts with names and dates written on them. This was the Love Tree and we watched as a couple made themselves a part of it by getting their own heart and having it placed on a limb alongside all the other lover’s hearts. Everything here is somewhat epic, I must say. After seeing that we ended up at the trendy Bluum Bar. This was a great evening of laughs and sipping cocktails. Before returning to our room, we passed by the concierge who knew I wanted to keep tomorrow’s activities a secret, so he handed me a note that simply said all had been taken care of and to meet in the lobby at 10 am.
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Tomorrow couldn’t come fast enough for me. Keeping secrets is not a strength, it’s more of a muscle I’ve neglected to exercise for some time. Somehow, I made it. Breakfast was a quick trip downstairs and then off we went. Even I couldn’t believe it when we reached the bottom of the hotel’s driveway just in time to see a helicopter arrive. It was ours. We hopped in and off we went to race cars on a professional track. Getting there was half the fun. As the helicopter buzzed the coast, we passed other hotels we visited and saw the expansive beaches and lighthouses below. This was more than an experience. This memory was going to last a lifetime. We landed on the track of Autódromo Internacional Algarve where adrenaline had already been pumping now to learn how to race actual racecars, no tracks, no gimmicks, just real racing techniques. What a day? Everything was perfectly executed and that is thanks in no small part to Epic Sana for arranging all the details. There’s no wonder as to why their name is Epic. Coming down from that experience, after another lovely helicopter ride back to the hotel, was in order. We spent the next few days strolling through towns, shopping at markets, took a cooking class with Cataplana Algarve at Tertulia restaurant in the historic center of Faro. This trip had everything we could ask for. We love Portugal and adore the Portuguese hospitality and service. The authenticity and generosity of spirit makes Portugal a place I will always love and will never skip again. It is now a built-in part of every European trip we take. Thank you…obrigada.
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THE SPA UNCOMMON London By Peta Phipps
“There are two places in the world where men can most effectively disappear – the city of London and the South Seas.” — Herman Melville 83
The ESPA life at Corinthia London makes 35,000 square feet of spa space seem intimate. In here, the city of London disappears. The stresses of even the roughest day can’t hold a candle within these walls. The use of the Chanel color scheme, in all its elegance and subliminal effusions surround you in style and fill the space with class. The spa transforms you from the moment you approach the reception desk. That’s the moment your cares begin to disappear. Guests flow through the space with its black lacquer and creamy walls whose curves usher you from section to section. Feeling grounded on the thermal floor, with heated marble lounge chairs only feet away from an exceptionally large black lacquered column that divides the room from sitting area to lounge, whose core has been carved out to house a semi-circular fireplace relieving you of any chill you may have walked in with. amphitheater styles glass sauna, so you can overlook the pools and the ice chips in constant replenishment mode.
Taking the spa to a new level they call the integration of new methods, the mindful spa. Declutter the mind, relax the body and free your soul. Techniques include using, crystals, visualization, breathing and other techniques. Their holistic approach to wellbeing is curated by a team of the world’s top experts in these areas of mind, body, and spirit. The treatments and services run the gamut from alternative therapies to fitness and beauty treatments. The Technogym features the latest fitness equipment and is staffed with a team of expert personal trainers to give you exactly what you need to either maintain an existing regimen or start you on the right path. The gym is very much in keeping with the rest of the spa facility. It is luxurious, discreet and perfectly located in the heart of Whitehall. Guests enjoy 24/7 access to this part of the facility in addition to other areas.
This elevates the common spa experience exponentially. Wrap it all up in a space designed to harmonize and you’re living the ESPA life at Corinthia. The buzz of London is just outside but from in here, you would think you are far removed from it all. The seasons and often temperamental London weather are nary a passing thought in the warm embrace of the spa. While swimming in the Various pools on the thermal floor between stints in the amphitheater style glass sauna, the steam room, and the lounge areas, you may be contemplating your next treatment. After a mindful massage, wend your way back to the sleeping pods. That’s correct. You’ve got your own spacious cocoon with floor- to-ceiling curtain to separate you from the other five dimly lit resting spaces outfitted with comfy pillows and blankets as a fireplace warms the room. We love this spa for taking every element of the spa experience and mindfully executing it, inherently taking it to the next level, if even on a subliminal plane. There’s room to explore in this spa and not just physical space, but the menu of services ranges from traditional treatments to physiotherapy, and Chinese massage fusion and runs the gamut all the way to acupuncture. Check in to the gorgeous Corinthia hotel, stroll out the front door to your favorite London haunts and then return to the sanctuary that is ESPA life at Corinthia.
Ask for a room near the spa elevator and be transported directly from your luxury suite into the spa. Lose yourself here and make all your cares disappear. www.espalifeatcorinthia.com
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A LETTER FROM South Africa:
Johannesburg By Lane Nieset
Hello fellow jet-setters, It’s Monday morning and I’m actually happy about it. After a week of jetting across South Africa, I’ve finally landed in my last stop—Johannesburg. I arrived late last night, but my taxi driver quickly whisked around the city’s infamous traffic and had me at the Saxon Hotel in 40 minutes flat. As we entered through the grandiose gates, I instantly felt my travel stress slip away. This luxurious spot has been called an urban oasis—and with good reason. Lush gardens encase the hotel and villas in Alice and Wonderland style, seeming to almost glow at sunset. As we approached the hotel, the valet quickly whisked open my door and 86
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I was led to reception and introduced to my butler. When they said five-star, they really meant it. My butler was available 24/7 to handle even the smallest task. Although once I settled into my spacious suite, I was perfectly at ease soaking in a Molton Brown-filled bubble bath. It was hard mustering the strength to escape the suite, with its lush bedding, terrace looking out across the trees, and mini fridge stocked with all of my favorites—South African sparkling wine included. But I was convinced to hit the town for dinner after chatting with the concierge downstairs.
“What kind of cuisine are you after?” The charming concierge asked. “Something local, with a buzzy bar scene,” I replied. “It’s Sunday night, but this spot should still be what you’re looking for,” she said. A car arrived out front in mere minutes and I whisked off to dinner, where I lingered over a glass of Shiraz and quinoa superfood salad at gastropub Social on Main in Bryanston. In the morning, I woke up and made my way to the gym, hoping to squeeze in a workout session before my long flight that evening. Not only did the gym look out at the koi pond (probably why this spot is called an oasis), it also had every state-of-the-art piece of equipment you could imagine—plus an on-site personal trainer. After my session, I crossed the pond and sat on the terrace indulging in one of the most lavish “Continental” breakfast spreads imaginable. The buffet was lined was gourmet freshly baked bread, a massive bowl of oysters, sushi rolls, and charcuterie. I could’ve sat and feasted on this spread all day, but the spa
was calling! Gorgeous crystal chandeliers hung in each of the treatment rooms, which were sprayed with the spa’s signature scent: a blend of rosemary, eucalyptus, rose and jasmine petals, pomegranate blossoms, musk, cedarwood, and sandalwood. After an hour-and-a-half-long “Himalayan Journey,” which included a Himalayan salt scrub and hot granite stone massage, I felt relaxed and ready to toast to my last evening in Johannesburg with a glass of bubbly and views overlooking the calming pool and gardens. It’s no wonder Nelson Mandela chose this spot to reflect and write his autobiography, “Long Walk to Freedom.” After a perfect last day in South Africa, it’s time to say goodbye and jet off to the next spot. Au revoir for now! Xo,
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A LETTER FROM the Caribbean:
Playacar, Mexico By Gina Hines
My dearest friends, I am just about to pop out of the villa and head to the beach. The thing is I need to wait for the butler to finish placing my bottle of Rosé in the ice bucket. This minor delay is completely my doing. When I arrived this morning, early, I had time to unpack and unwind, then had lunch at The Deck. I was quite comfortable feeling the breeze, sipping my rosé and gobbling up all the traditional Mexican snacks, until the urge to hit the beach came over me. So what did I do? Headed back up to the villa and just so happened to mention to my butler, who is seated only a few feet from my front door, that I absolutely loved the wine I had with lunch. Two questions later (in which restaurant did I dine and was it a white, red or rosé?) and I smiled and slipped into my room to change into a swimsuit. In the back of my mind, I felt like he might have a bottle sent to my room, but I had no real idea. Royal Hideaway is an adults-only all-inclusive hotel, so I figured it was just the beverages I had stocked in my refrigerator that were part of the plan. I was proven wrong in that assumption. Before I could slip on my cover-up, there was a gentle tap on the door and like an angelic sommelier, my butler was there with wine in hand and ice bucket ready to receive the bottle of pink goodness. Some parts of the world may only experience three to five months of pink-wine weather, but here in the Caribbean…I indulge whenever I want. The weather is always perfect for sipping on this. Having witnessed the bottle cozy up to the ice cubes, I skipped out of the villa and down to the beach, happy to know I would be coming home to a perfectly chilled elixir if I somehow needed a magical potion to cure me of anything that inflicted me on the enviable stretch of white sand upon which the beach butlers had set up 88
my covered seating. As highly unlikely as that seemed, knowing it was there waiting gave me a sense of security. Speaking of which, this place has the security game down pat. The Riviera Maya has long prided itself on guest safety and security but here at Royal Hideaway, there are an additional two, visible, layers to that security, allowing me to relax even more deeply. Today there’s a saxophone player playing at the pool behind me. The breeze carries his music to my ears and I feel a drink order coming on. I’m in Mexico, so tequila comes to mind as a first option, but I am already attending the tequila tasting upstairs in Spices in only a few hours. I don’t want to spoil that experience, so Piña Colada it is. That will be enough until the tasting because there’s a long night ahead and I only arrived today. Four more days to explore the resort and head to Tulum for an afternoon should reset my spirit and prepare me for the summer ahead. That preparation needs to include long walks on the beach and some time in the gym because I fully intend to take part in dining at each of the six restaurants here at the hotel. I am especially looking forward to the intimate Chef’s Table, where I am to be seated directly in the kitchen in a glass-encased dining room outfitted with cameras and a flat screen television to showcase the detailing that takes place as each dish is plated for my enjoyment. I am having a ball here. Come to Royal Hideaway. Besitos,
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A LETTER FROM Central America:
Guatemala By Ashlee Tuck
Guatemala is one of those under-assuming, overperforming countries. You know the type. It’s never quite on your radar and you don’t really know why. But once you get there, it becomes one of those places you can never forget. I quickly discovered that Guatemala is beautiful and rich in culture and history. There is something to see for everyone, no matter what your interests are. 90
You don’t have to travel far outside the capital for beautiful or scenic nature views. About an hour outside of Guatemala City is one of Guatemala's most active volcanoes. Despite its very steep hills, it’s worth the climb to the top to see. If you aren't able to climb, locals walk alongside visitors with horses to rent for 100 Quetzales (about $13) each way.
A little further outside the city is Antigua, one of Guatemala’s brightest shining stars. About 45 minutes from Guatemala City without traffic, tourists flock to Antigua because its quaint small-town feel, selection of bars, restaurants, and clubs, and its historic value. Antigua also one of the top places in the world to celebrate Semana Santa, or Holy Week, because of their elaborate processions that occur almost daily. Antigua serves as a gateway for visiting other areas of the country, including Lake Atitlán, one of the most beautiful lakes you’ll ever see. It also happens to be the deepest lake in all of Central America. When visiting the Lake, a tour of surrounding villages is an absolute must to experience local and native culture. Head to Semuc Champey if natural water pools interest you. It's a collection of tiered pools in Guatemala's jungles. Semuc Champey is about a 5-hour drive from Guatemala City or 4-hour drive from Antigua. If you have the time, visit Tikal. Many visitors to Guatemala don't put Tikal on their to-do list, which is a big mistake. Tikal was one of the most powerful
kingdoms in ancient Maya. It's a city full of beautiful ruins and definitely worth a visit. The quickest way there would be to take an hour-long flight from Guatemala City. Want to spend more time there? You can stay on a nearby island, Flores. Whether your interests include history, nature, hiking, eating, or drinking, Guatemala is full of cultural experiences just waiting for you to explore. And with only a 3-hour flight from Atlanta, what’s stopping you? Meet me there and come explore this beautifully diverse country for yourself. Cheers,
A LETTER FROM Asia:
THAILAND By Ann Marie Scheidler
It seems somewhat serendipitous that I had just started reading A Year of Yes by Shonda Rhimes when I was invited to tour one of Asia’s greatest treasures— Thailand. The theme of Rhimes’ best-selling book was her commitment to saying “yes” to all opportunities that came her way, especially those that would take her most out of her comfort zone. So channeling my spirited inner Shonda Rhimes, I said “yes” to Thailand and traveled half way around the world to a place I had only ever dreamed of. My trip to Thailand began on a whimsical note as we flew on EVA Air’s Hello Kitty Shining Star’s first direct flight from Chicago to Taipei. With Hello Kitty-themed travel amenities, cabin décor, food, and movies—I couldn’t help but land with a smile on my face when we touched ground 15 1/2 hours later in Taipei. Our
Elite Class seats were more than comfortable and EVA Air’s staff outdid themselves catering to our every need. One more short plane ride later, we arrived in the bustling city of Bangkok—the city of smiles—home to more than 20 million people, just in time for lunch and our first authentically Thai meal. The Savoey Restaurant, a local favorite, wowed with a 13-course tasting menu ranging from fresh papaya salad and spicy seabass coconut soup to grilled river prawns and Pad Thai, a culinary feast to say the least. But with each and every bite being better than the last, we couldn’t help but fold our hands, bow to our hosts, and sincerely say “kob kun ka” (Thai for thank you) as we left for our hotel.
With a full stomach, I arrived at The Peninsula Bangkok, located on the Chao Phraya River (the King’s River) a 5-star hotel that opened in 1998, with 37 floors and 370 rooms. I was personally checked in by one of the hotel’s gracious staff and taken to my room where she carefully highlighted the room’s features, including automated curtains that when open framed Bangkok’s skyline across the river, western power sources, and a pillowcase with my name elegantly embroidered. After a quick freshening up, I was introduced to the hotel’s executive chef Chamnan Thepchana who led a tour through the hotel’s herb garden. He spoke of how he highlights seasonal herbs from this garden in his dishes and how the hotel’s spa uses others in the compresses they make to accompany their spa treatments. On that note, I was treated to my first traditional Thai massage. Traditional Thai massage differs from others I’ve had in that it uses no oils or lotions. I remained clothed during the treatment where my muscles were compressed, pulled, stretched, and rocked. Thailand is known for its history in massage and the techniques that are taught. I left my 60-minute spa experience feeling both invigorated, relaxed, and knowing why the spa at The Peninsula is world renowned.
My first day in Bangkok ended with a riverside dinner in The Peninsula’s Thiptara Thai Restaurant. Surrounded by Banyan trees and lush tropical gardens, this was Bangkok at its most beautiful with the city’s lights sparkling as a backdrop. In an elaborate, multi-course dinner where Chef Thepchana dazzled us with his food carving skills, Thailand was living up to its title as a foodie paradise. Our Thai immersion continued the next day as we ventured into Bangkok’s Chinatown. We walked through the streets, tasting the region’s freshest fruits—mangosteen, longon, and rambutan—right from local vendors selling them from card tables set up on the city’s sidewalks. We had dim-sum, rode on a tuk-tuk, and toured the historic Wat Pho Temple, home to the golden Reclining Buddha. We dined that evening on the family-owned Supanniga cruise that took us up and down the majestic Chao Phraya River while spoiling us with more authentic Thai food and genuine hospitality. Their take on mango sticky rice was my favorite in Thailand.
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On our last day in Bangkok, after touring a coconut plantation, we saw things you can’t see anywhere else in the world. Our first taste of Thai markets was at the Maeklong Railway Market, nicknamed “Talat Rom Hup,” means the “umbrella pulldown market.” It is one of the largest fresh seafood markets in Thailand and is centered on the Maeklong Railway’s track. Whenever a train approaches, the awnings, and shop fronts are moved back from the rails, or strategically placed so that the train can safely pass over them, only to be replaced once the train has passed. From a train to a longboat, we ventured to the Amphawa Floating Market. You have to see this waterbased community in order to believe it. Busy markets have been set up along the Mae Klong River, where tourists and locals can find Thai noodles, traditional coffee, juice, fruit, fresh seafood, and souvenirs. Boats, docked in the water, have been retrofitted into make-shift kitchens where some of the area’s best seafood is prepared, while visitors sit in bleacher-like seats above them to enjoy their seaside fare. After grabbing one last fabulous cup of iced Thai coffee at what has to be the best breakfast buffet in Thailand, I said goodbye to The Peninsula Bangkok and made my way to the rural Krabi on the west coast of southern Thailand. Immediately, a slower pace was tangible and it felt like I was now officially on vacation. The Amari Vogue Krabi, an Onyx hotel, welcomed me with open arms. This is a beautiful resort, on the verge of five-star status. With a relatively new general 94
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manager, a brand new executive chef, and extensive facility renovations underway, the Amari Vogue is poised to be the place to stay when touring Krabi On my first evening there, Executive Chef Nattakit treated us to a French-inspired meal. As much as I had been enjoying the best of Thai food, the French diversion was a nice change of pace. Fresh foie gras, delicately prepared lamb, and a perfectly whipped panna cotta was served. General manager Patrice Landrein explained that the Amari Vogue does its best to cater the menus of their two restaurants—the Bellini and the Lotus—to their guests. Both restaurants make the most of their resort-like landscapes.
After a good night sleep, we visited Ban Ko Klang in Krabi, a traditional fishing community where visitors can see the relationship between the islanders and the sea. It’s located five minutes by boat from Krabi Town, populated mainly by Muslim families. While the main form of livelihood is still fishing, others are making a living farming rice or creating batik or wooden boat art. I also had a young woman teach me how to make Thai roti—a delicious favorite among the locals. It was the perfect way to end my stay in Krabi. As I began to make my way back to Chicago, I had one more night in Bangkok—this time at the Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, an Avani property. This luxurious experience was like no other—literally the feeling of staying at a remote resort rather than a downtown Bangkok hotel property. After a quiet afternoon at their pool, I was invited to drinks at the rooftop bar of their sister property, the Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel. Having opened just a little more than a year ago, this hotel is hip, modern, and oozing with sophistication. Its rooftop infinity pool offers unforgettable views of Bangkok that are best enjoyed with one of the bar’s signature cocktails. I know first-hand how delicious their lavender-infused gin martini is. Toasting Bangkok above the clouds was the storybook ending my first trip to Asia deserved. I can’t wait to say “yes” to my next adventure. Yours,
Ann Marie 95
CREDITS OUT AND ABOUT Page 5 Azimuth
SWANKY AND SUSTAINABLE MONACO Page 63 Visit Monaco
Page 5 ADEGA Page 5 Bagatelle
SWELLEGANT STAYS Page 7 Almanac Barcelona Page 8 The Dewberry Pages 9-10 Eden Roc at Cap Cana Pages 11-12 Gasparilla Inn & Club Pages 13-14 Grande Real Villa Italia Pages 15-16 RM Guesthouse
THRILLED AT PORT ANTONIO JAMAICA'S TRIDENT HOTEL MONACO Pages 64-73 Andrew Innerarity
OBRIGADA...PORTIGAL Pages 74-77 Algarve tourism Page 78 Bela Vista hotel & Spa Page 79 VILA VITA Parc Resort & Spa Pages 80-81 EPIC SANA Lisboa Hotel
THE SPA UNCOMMON LONDON Pages 83-85
SWANKY RETREATS SALES DIRECTOR: Partners@SwankyRetreats.com
The ESPA life at Corinthia MAD ABOUT MADRIDS HOTEL VILLA MAGNA
www.SwankyRetreats.com
Pages 17-23 Hotel Villa Magna Hotel Villa Magna
A LETTER FROM SOUTH AFRICA: Johannesburg Pages 86-87 The Saxon Hotel
IT'S ABOUT RHINE Pages 24-41 Andrew Innerarity
A LETTER FROM THE CARIBBEAN: Playacar, Mexico Pages 88-89 Royal Hideaway
LUXURY FAMILY HOLIDAYS IN PORTUGAL Pages 42-48 Martinhal Family Hotels & Resorts
SWANKY SUMMER EXPERIENCES IN SWITZERLAND Pages 49-51 The Chedi Andermatt YARA THE GLOBAL STAKEHOUSE Pages 52-53 YARA
A LETTER FROM CENTRAL AMERICA: Guatemala Pages 90-91
A LETTER FROM ASIA: Thailand Pages 92-93 The Peninsula Bangkok Page 94 The Amari Vogue Krabi
LUNCH IN THE ALGARVE Pages 52-53 Estaminé
A SWANKY ROAD TRIP Pages 57-62 Algarve Tourism
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Page 95 Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort
Swanky Retreats (Volume 2, Issue 2; ISSN 2469-6854) Published Quarterly by Caribbean Living Magazine, Inc., 10097 Cleary Blvd, Plantation, FL 33324. ©2016 by Swanky Retreats Magazine, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Publisher assumes no liability for the representations contained herein. Swanky Retreats is not responsible for the return or care of unsolicited material. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the prior written consent of Swanky Retreats or Caribbean Living Magazine, Inc. Printed in the USA
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