Textile Insight

TRENDS IN APPAREL + FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION • JULY/AUGUST 2020 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION

THE QUEST TO PROTECT

INNOVATION 5.0 How the Pandemic is Accelerating Change in Active Wardrobes, Digitalization, Sustainable Solutions and Antimicrobial Tech textileinsight.com • @textileinsight

SummerPerformance-Climber-10.125x12.pdf

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TEXTILE INSIGHT

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Editor/Associate Publisher Emily Walzer emilyawalzer@gmail.com Editorial Director Cara Griffin

JULY/AUGUST/2020 In the Market.......................................................... 06

Art Director Francis Klaess

New owner for eVent; PrimaLoft inks licensing agreement;

Contributing Editors Suzanne Blecher Kurt Gray Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Kathlyn Swantko

Gore, Sudwolle Group, The Lycra Company and Hohenstein.

Publisher Jeff Nott jnott@formula4media.com 516-305-4711

with carbon fiber performance debuts; AAFA calls for PPE retail

Production Brandon Christie bchristie@formula4media.com 516-305-4710

Sustainability.......................................................... 14

domestic suppliers invest in innovation; plus eco updates from

Footwear................................................................. 10 A new advanced, and affordable, composite material technology guidelines; and a peek at Spring ’21 styles.

Attitudes about environmental responsibility are shifting as consumers re-consider the relationship between convenience and consumption. Designers weigh in.

Advertising Katie O’Donohue kodonohue@formula4media.com 828-244-3043

Technology............................................................. 18 The COVID crisis is ushering in a new era of antimicrobials with companies expanding and diversifying offerings in a quest to

Sam Selvaggio sselvaggio@formula4media.com 212-398-5021

protect individuals with performance technologies.

Subscriptions: store.formula4media.com

Voices...................................................................... 22

One year, $24.00 (U.S. Funds) in the United States. All other countries,

Our Q&A with David J Proctor, Ph.D., tech director of the

$54.00 (U.S. Funds).

Formula4Media

International Antimicrobial Council, provides essential need-toknow facts on the latest antimicrobial developments.

®

Formula4 Media Publications Footwear Insight Footwear Insight Extra Outdoor Insight

Spring ’22 Forecast.............................................. 24 Next season, dressing with intention rules the day with collections strong on high quality, functionally-fit, eco-conscious fabrications tailored for a new active uniform.

Team Insight Team Insight Extra

Survey...................................................................... 28

Textile Insight

This installment of Trend Insight Consumer delivers research

Textile Insight Extra Trend Insight sportstyle PO Box 23-1318, Great Neck , NY 11023

on purchasing decisions by active outdoorists with feedback conducted on MESH01’s Insight Platform.

Phone: 516-305-4709 Fax: 516-305-4712

Strategies................................................................ 32

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With in-person meetings giving way to Zoom calls, advances

Textile Insight® is a registered trademark of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2020 All

in 3D tech and digitalization are leveling up how textiles appear online. Suzanne Blecher reports.

rights reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Textile Insight are not necessarily those of the

Education................................................................ 33

editors or publishers. Textile Insight is not

With scientists worldwide scrambling to develop an effective

responsible for unsolicited manuscripts,

vaccine, Kathlyn Swantko explains how University of Pittsburgh

photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Textile Insight may not be reproduced

researchers are creating a textile coating that repels viruses.

in whole or in part without the express permission of the publisher. Textile Insight is published bi-monthly: Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr;

Out of Context........................................................ 34

May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec.

Today’s web-educated customers know not only what they

Postmaster: Send address changes to Textile Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318

want to do; they also know what they want to buy, and that’s paying off in a sales surge at Colorado specialty shops.

Above: Women’s Wadi Pants from Houdini On the Cover: Vollebak jacket, page 18: Merrell Cloud knit footwear, page 11, Sustainability story, page 14 and close-up of virus microbe, page 22.

Great Neck, NY 11023 textileinsight.com

July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 3

TEXTILE TALK | EMILY WALZER

A Fast Track to the Future email inbox, let alone get up to speed on an array of industry developments originally planned for 2021, implemented now.

But this issue of Textile Insight attempts to do just that. Stories on the following pages offer you a glimpse of a future that has already arrived. Think of it as “2020 in 3D,” which happens to be the headline in our story about bringing textiles to life online. Other stories forecast trends in fabrications tailored to fit a new active n his new book, “Life Is in the Transitions: Mastering

sustainability, the arrival of a new era of protective textile

“lifequakes,” and explains how our personal stories are

technologies, and offer views from the corner office on

shaped more by how we survive crises, than by the

retail leadership.

impact of an actual event. Years in the making — sparked

As one exec put it, “a decade’s worth of change happened in four months.”

uniform, as well as address amplified efforts surrounding

Change at Any Age,” Bruce Feiler coins the term

Feiler’s research also points out that a surge of creativity

by a triple-whammy of distress in Feiler’s own life that

is common during times of transition. That is true in

took place about a decade ago — the book stands out

today’s textile world, and as well as in my own little world,

for its spot on relevancy. And not because we are living

where artist and designer friends are sewing up a storm.

under a cloud of COVID that has re-shaped our personal

What started as mask- making efforts to aid local causes is

and professional landscape; but rather how the pandemic

evolving into a home workforce. This is definitely a trend

signals a megatrend: Feiler says that what he learned

to watch, as sewers are increasingly valued as essential

from his extensive research for the book is “the variety of

workers. As for me, I’ve returned to embroidery as a

changes we experience in our lives is increasing and the

creative outlet, updating worn jeans with needle and thread

pace at which we experience them is quickening.”

as change becomes part of our new normal. l

That pretty much sums up the textile industry in 2020.

As one exec put it, “a decade’s worth of change happened

Cheers,

in four months.” Absolutely. Whether that is how textiles are made, or sourced, or digitized, the rate of innovation is in overdrive. It is hard enough to for me to stay current with all the news and Zoom event invites flooding my

proud partner of

Textile-Based Product Solutions

Through it all, we have your back.

Even in challenging times, we want to assure you we’re still here, sourcing and developing the sustainable textile innovations you demand.

4 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

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IN THE MARKET | COMPANY NEWS A Round Up of the Latest Industry Developments.

eVent Fabrics Brand Has New Owner

Mosko Moto jacket with eVent DValpine tech.

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erformax Pro, Limited, of Hong Kong has assumed full ownership of the eVent fabrics brand from Parker Performance Materials which had owned the eVent brand since 2017. The purchase price was not disclosed.

Performax Pro, under the leadership of co-founder and president David Liu, now has the exclusive worldwide rights to all assets and sales of all eVent technologies, membranes and fabrics. Performax Pro has set up two entities to manage commercial operations and marketing for the eVent fabrics brand: Hong Kong-based eVent International LLC and a U.S.-based subsidiary, named eVent Technology LLC. Under Performax Pro’s ownership, the eVent fabrics brand is now positioned directly in the heart of the textile supply chain and marketplace. Performax Pro is an industry-leading provider of performance fabrics in Asia, the Middle East, and Europe.

The company has more than two decades experience in the textiles industry.

6 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

Key eVent fabrics team members, who have a long history with the brand, are continuing under the new ownership by Performax Pro, including Glenn Crowther in his new role as VP business development. Performax Pro will continue to serve all existing and future eVent customers, with the exception of certain U.S. -based professional customers that Parker Performance Materials will retain.

Additionally, Parker will continue to manufacture all eVent ePTFE membranes in the United States at Parker-Hannifin’s Lee’s Summit, Missouri, facility.

In 2018, Performax Pro became the official distributor and sales agent for eVent fabrics in the Asia Pacific region, except in Japan. In that role, Performax Pro has managed existing and new relationships with eVent customers in Asia. Since 2013, Performax Pro and eVent fabrics have collaborated in the development of premium high performance waterproof membrane laminates for the outdoor industry, workwear and military markets. l

Hohenstein Collab Helps Suppliers Meet Green Chemistry Requirements Hohenstein and Scivera have streamlined the process for chemical suppliers to assess and validate preferred chemicals and to proactively improve formulations to ZDHC MRSL conformance level 3 and beyond for apparel, footwear and home textiles.

The collaboration integrates software, certification and analytical testing to enable suppliers to improve and verify greener formulations. Brands taking action to move beyond MRSL compliance, including Levi Strauss & Co, will benefit from meeting ZDHC goals along with verified greener chemistries they can trust.

“Progressive brands and chemical suppliers are showing strong leadership that will positively impact our industry, consumer safety and the environment,” John Frazier, senior technical director at Hohenstein, said.

“This is a systems approach to achieve then move beyond MRSL compliance to verified, greener chemistry.”

Engaging with Hohenstein or Scivera as their lead service provider, chemical suppliers can take advantage of the streamlined process to meet greener chemistry requirements for a growing number of brands.

Formulations certified with Screened Chemistry through Scivera and conforming to ZDHC MRSL level 3 through ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX with Hohenstein can go beyond level 3 by assessing and verifying greener attributes.

“Greener chemistry means formulating and using chemistries that have verified, preferred characteristics to create safer conditions for workers, consumers and the environment. When applied together, the powerful tools offered by Hohenstein and Scivera remove barriers, enable continuous improvement

and make greener chemistry attainable,” said Joe Rinkevich, president Scivera. l PrimaLoft Announces New Global License In an arrangement that expands application of its PrimaLoft Bio technology into multiple new markets, PrimaLoft has inked a licensing agreement with Fiberpartner, a global supplier of stapled fibers, technical yarns and plastics.

“We see an increasing demand for biodegradable polyester, and consider PrimaLoft’s technology to be a game-changer.

The staple fibers produced with PrimaLoft Bio from Fiberpartner will be developed to supplement regular polyester fiber for use in a variety of applications,” said Fiberpartner CEO, Thomas Wittrup, in a corporate statement.

PrimaLoft Bio is made from biodegradable, 100 percent recycled fibers that break down when exposed to specific environments — such as landfills, oceans and wastewater systems.

Mike Joyce, president and CEO of PrimaLoft added, “PrimaLoft Bio is an important step forward in providing sustainable solutions for microfiber pollution, throughout the entire life-cycle of a product.” l Hyosung Introduces New creora 3D Max With all-day comfort increasingly a go-to apparel choice for consumers, Hyosung has developed new creora 3D Max spandex. The product made its debut at the Kingpins24 virtual denim event last month.

Hyosung introduced 3D Max spandex to give denim products dual performance features such as ultra-stretch and excellent recovery that last over time.

Jeans made with 3D Max offer a natural look and feel and allow for add-on details, such as eco-friendly finishes and laser treatments. l textileinsight.com

IN THE MARKET | COMPANY NEWS Investment & Innovation Strengthen Supplier Portfolios

CA-based Maker Invests in NC Expansion A California maker of ondemand apparel will establish its first factory on the East Coast in central North Carolina, local economic development officials announced earlier this summer.

Through6, established in 2014 near Los Angeles, says its novel technology provides its partner brands and retailers with access to “cut and sew” apparel without “the traditional barriers of inventory, minimums or long lead times.” The company recently altered its operations to produce protective equipment amid the COVID-19 pandemic.

The company expects to invest $2 million in the new facility in Sanford, North Carolina — about 45 minutes southwest of Raleigh — and add 160 jobs by the time it is fully operational.

Through6 said the site would open later this summer and increase the company’s overall production output. The company plans to begin hiring technologists, printing and sewing operators, and warehouse personnel immediately.

CEO Carlos Goncalves credited the local workforce and the region’s history of textile manufacturing for the decision to expand to North Carolina.

“Through6’s unique techenabled business model represents the future of apparel manufacturing, and we are excited to add them to the evergrowing list of manufacturers who call Sanford and Lee County home,” Kirk Bradley, chairman of the Sanford Area Growth Alliance’s board of directors, said in a statement. l MSYG Offers Yarns with CiCLO Tech Meridian Specialty Yarn Group (MSYG) is currently introducing yarns with CiCLO technology to hosiery markets, initially for performance and hiking socks.

Polyester yarns with CiCLO technology are also available to textileinsight.com

manufacturers of medical PPE for use making medical gowns, lab coats and other medical textiles typically made from polyester.

CiCLO technology is a product of Intrinsic Advanced Materials, which was formed to develop and commercialize innovative and sustainable solutions for the textile industry. CiCLO technology fibers and yarns are effective at reducing synthetic fiber accumulation in landfills and microfiber pollution in the oceans.

Meridian’s new yarns with CiCLO technology can be treated with antimicrobials proven effective at reducing exposure to viral infections without compromising the functionality and hand-feel qualities of polyester or hindering the effectiveness of the CiCLO technology that allows the synthetic material to biodegrade similar to natural fiber. l Devan Gives Textiles an Added Boost Textile innovator Devan is launching a new blend in addition to its R-Vital range of active ingredients. The new ‘multivitamin’ blend consists of vitamin C, vitamin E and ginger and is developed for immunity-boosting properties.

R-Vital is a fabric treatment that enables textile manufacturers to boost their textiles with a range of microencapsulated active ingredients. The technology first launched in 2018 with active ingredients including Q10, Thyme oil, Aloe Vera, and more.

“COVID-19 makes us feel more concerned than usual about staying strong and healthy”, says Devan CEO Sven Ghyselinck.

“Scientists discovered SARSCoV-2 in late 2019, but most of our immune systems had never heard of the virus. While we wait for a vaccine, we need to rely on our bodies to fight off the virus and build up our line of defence.

A balanced immune system is crucial and depends on how healthy we are, both mentally and physically.” l

Sunbrella Debuts Fluorine-Free Fabric Sunbrella Assure debuts in the Balance Collection, featuring six different patterns in 43 colors.

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urlington, NC-based Sunbrella has unveiled, Sunbrella Assure, a fluorine-free textile that delivers water repellency, stain resistance and enhanced durability.

Sunbrella Assure features a proprietary bio-based formula that combats the absorption of water-based spills and messes without the use of fluorochemicals. Sunbrella Assure is also fade-resistant and highly durable, with abrasion resistance up to 100,000 double rubs.

The eco-friendly fabric is GreenGuard Gold certified and achieves OekoTex Standard 100 and Facts Silver certifications. l

HeiQ Tech Features in Outdoor Research Kit

A high quality, Made in USA filter provides protection with HeiQ NPJO3 VIroBlock technology.

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utdoor Research, with factories in Seattle, WA, and El Monte, CA, swiftly shifted production to PPE in the early days of the pandemic.

The company, best known for its technical gear and apparel, as well as strong military-grade program, has expanded its PPE offering to include an Essential Face Mask Kit. The new kit is designed around a proprietary and replaceable filter integrated in a form-fitting, fully customizable fabric facemask.

The mask is treated with HeiQ’s new anti-viral textile technology, ViroBlock NPJ03 to provide resistance to microbes and germs. The mask is washable and can be laundered up to 30 times while maintaining 100 percent effectiveness. Durable as well as water and stain repellent, the mask features adjustable ear loops and a nose wire to provide comfort with a tight seal. l July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 7

IN THE MARKET | ECO UPDATE Gore Launches New Sustainability Framework for Fabrics Division.

A Planet-Positive Partnership

Houdini’s Advanced Circularity Mono Air fleece top

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üdwolle Group and Lycra Company have teamed up to advance the wool market with a new cationic dyeable CoolMax EcoMade long staple Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified yarn.

Cationic dyeability facilitates the dyeing process in piece or cone dyeing and enables a gentler dyeing process at lower temperatures using less energy, without compromising the wool aesthetic.

CoolMax EcoMade fiber, a recycled polyester, partners nicely with wool, allowing wool spinners to combine the performance of CoolMax with the natural attributes of wool. l

oudini, the Swedish outdoor brand, continues to lead the charge when it comes to sustainability. All fabrics in the brand’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection are either recycled, recyclable, renewable, biodegradable or bluesign certified, as the company actively works towards a 100 percent circular supply chain and production process.

A highlight of next season’s product line-up is the bottoms program with five new styles rounding out the collection. A new fleece style in the Mono Air fabric also debuts. l

Delivering on De-Carbonization

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.L. Gore has long been driven by science-based sustainability initiatives, and like most textile companies in the last five years, Gore has increasingly prioritized its eco agenda. Now with its latest development, a new sustainability framework for the Gore Fabrics Division, the business takes another step forward in its journey in environmental and social responsibility, with the goal of becoming carbon neutral by 2050.

“With our new sustainability framework, we aim to redefine performance beyond technical product features to the benefit of both people and the planet,” said Ross Ross MacLaine, sustainability team leader of the Gore Fabrics Division. “It is a more holistic

8 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

view,” he added, meaning that performance is determined more broadly than just being laser focused on the functionality of a jacket, for example, and reflects choice of materials, end of life design and societal issues.

Minimizing the environmental impact of operations and products is a key strategy of the Gore framework.

Absolute carbon reduction goals for its brand include: • By 2030, reduce absolute carbon emissions originating in Gore’s manufacturing sites and offices by 60 percent • By 2030, reduce absolute product related carbon emissions of GORETEX products by 35 percent In terms of production, that translates to continuing to introduce

renewable energy at Gore’s manufacturing sites (Germany, China, U.S); updating machinery; maximizing efficiencies; and evaluating energy suppliers by region, according to MacLaine, who is based outside of Munich.

In terms of product, Gore looks to optimize product design, balancing durable performance with lower footprint materials while maintaining fitness for use. “Durability and longevity are long-time Gore fabric priorities,” stated MacLaine, who has been with the company for 15 years. “Going forward we’ll evaluate textiles we use while lowering energy and continuing development with an eye on extending the life of the garment.”

Further, the frameworks highlights working with suppliers to reduce their plants’ emissions, switching from fossil fuel generated energy to renewable energy while increasing efficiency. “We will push these guidelines through the value chain and try to ensure when customers work with factories there is full transparency,” MacLaine explained.

Gore’s launch of its new sustainability framework comes at a time when organizations worldwide are converging on similar goals. “Business is challenging but commitment to sustainability is being re-enforced,” said MacLaine. “There is lots of incentive for progress. It is a key time to work on carbon goals. It is a great time for action.” l

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IN THE MARKET | ECO UPDATE A New UK-based Wool Platform is Putting Pride Back in British Farming.

The Woolkeepers

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s the United Kingdom starts to recover from the lockdown prompted by coronavirus, H. Dawson is rolling out The Woolkeepers program in collaboration with wool buyer Brannach Olann, and in partnership with local key customers such as Royal Warrant holders Hypnos beds; bedding specialist, The Woolroom; and HDWool, the active garment insulation. The program will provide a transparent supply chain of ethically minded suppliers. Customers will be assured that animal welfare, sourcing integrity and paying a fair price and good provenance are all practiced.

Charles Ross, sustainability lecturer at The Royal College of Art, stated, “Good practice is an ever-evolving thing, at first there must be a move away from poor practice before embarking on a process which puts more back into the system than it takes from it.”

This new sustainable model is reinvigorating British wool by allowing farmers visibility as to where their wool ends up, while rewarding them with a fair price payment. Despite the fall in worldwide wool prices as a result of COVID-19, The

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Woolkeepers are ensuring that for the 2020 wool season, those farmers involved in the program will receive the same payment as the previous season for their wool, which is a great step towards genuine sustainability of supply, according to the partners.

The Woolkeepers as a wool quality assurance platform recognizes standards in agriculture and textiles. The collaborative program has been awarded certifications from UK’s largest farm and food standards organization, Red Tractor Assurance; GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and EOV (Ecological Outcome Verification) to verify compliance with environmental and social responsibility from the fiber through to finished goods.

H. Dawson is a 132-year old wool merchant based in Yorkshire. Since 1888 the Dawson family has supplied the finest to the coarsest wool to and from countries all over the world through H. Dawson family companies. HDWool is a wool garment insulation business founded by H. Dawson, based in the UK and USA selling to brands worldwide. l

July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 9

IN THE MARKET | FOOTWEAR | MATERIAL INNOVATION Achieving Cost Effective, Affordable Carbon-based Performance. By Emily Walzer

Next Step Tech

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he performance features of carbon fiber are well known, as is its considerable cost, yet the material’s ability to elevate everyday product to elite functionality presents a roster of opportunities for new applications. Take footwear, for example, and the launch of Nike’s Vaporfly.

The shoe, along with its sky-high price tag, generated so much buzz that shoe makers scrambled to come up with competing carbon technologies.

Now a new advanced composite material technology is available that allows designers to economically achieve carbon fiber performance in a streamlined process. Called Aerolite Carbon, the product is a joint-development between Environmental Composites, an industry leader in

Learn more about Aerolite Carbon at www.aerolitecarbon.com

advanced textiles, based in Utica, NY and Lenni, PA- based Westlake Plastics, a leader in advanced thermoplastic extrusion.

Five years in development, and successfully commercialized in sporting goods and orthotics applications, Aerolite Carbon looks to find footing in the athletic footwear market.

Aerolite’s key characteristics of being formable, affordable and scalable make Aerolite Carbon well suited to footwear. Other features of note include compatibility with existing thermoforming equipment and the ability to integrate into an established supply chain. Design and aesthetic capabilities as well as a strong sustainability story also set Aerolite Carbon apart.

Finding a Sweet Spot Historically, there have been two distinct categories: inexpensive, low performing unfilled thermoplastics and traditional composites that are higher performing yet costly, requiring skilled labor, special equipment and a challenge to scale up.

10 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

Aerolite Carbon combines advanced composites performance with thermoformable plastics economics. “It basically brings a balance of both worlds,” stated Jim Gleason, technical director, Aerolite Carbon. The Aerolite process is faster and less labor intensive than traditional composites, to deliver a reasonable cost, without sacrificing lightweight performance.

“Aerolite Carbon gives a bump in performance over an unfilled material,” said Jason Ross, VP sales/marketing at Westlake Plastics, on an episode of Life in Polymers podcast. “It is process-able on current equipment that exists in the industry today.

Shape, Style and Sustainability The unique material chemistry and construction allow Aerolite Carbon to stretch uniformly when heated, and won’t wrinkle when formed into desired complex shapes.

“Where it shines is ability to create shapes,” stated Gleason. “Shape adds structure and strength.” It also adds comfort, enhanced performance and customization options. The ability of Aerolite Carbon to contour to the foot versus a flat carbon plate, for instance, “opens the door to all sorts of new uses,” Gleason added.

Cosmetic and design capabilities that have previously been limitations in the composite industry are available with Aerolite. Color matching, texture, embossment, graphics are all possible in a one-step process. “With traditional composites this would require a secondary operation,” Gleason explained.

Typically a carbon fiber composite uses a thermoset resin that won’t break down in a landfill. The Aerolite Carbon, however, is impregnated with a proprietary thermoplastic resin.

Further Aerolite can use virgin raw material, recycled material or a blend of both. According to Gleason, Environmental Composites has a zero-waste manufacturing policy, recapturing its raw material and cycling it back into their production, in addition to a customer takeback program. The firm also has the ability to capture carbon scraps from a large, viable aerospace resource.

“Carbon fiber has been around for years used in high-end applications like space travel and fighter jets and has trickled down to industrial use in automotive, as well as high-end consumer goods,” noted Gleason, whose background is in the aerospace industry. “But with Aerolite Carbon, we’re basically making carbon-based performance accessible to consumers everyday products.” Like footwear. l

AAFA Requests PPE Guidelines to Assist Retailers

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n a letter to President Trump, the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) requested that the administration institute federal face mask guidelines to assist retail stores as the country continues efforts to safely reopen.

Versions of the letter were also sent to the heads of the National Governors Association, National Association of Counties, and the U.S. Conference of Mayors. Concurrently, AAFA requested that the Director of the Department of Homeland Security’s Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security Agency (CISA) consider updates to its Essential Critical Infrastructure Workforce advisory to include “facilities that practice safe re-open protocols.”

“Simply put, a national face mask usage standard would protect retail employees and customers across the country, as well as remove any confusion amongst U.S. consumers regarding their local face mask requirements,” said Steve Lamar, president and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association.

“Over the past few months, businesses have been working hard to implement safety measures to protect their workers and their customers. However, with differing standards throughout the country, our members are facing situations where their employees need to educate customers on what is required to enter their stores, or even turn customers away.

One simple, consistent standard at the federal level, mandated and enforced at the state and local level, would go a long way in addressing this confusion and keeping the economy open.”

“Further, as long as our members continue to follow proper safety protocols, they should be allowed to stay open. Many apparel, footwear, and accessory stores now sell masks, face coverings, and other items of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). Just as important, those stores also sell products that meet a wide variety of other consumer needs — such as affordable backto-school clothes, shoes, and backpacks for growing children or cold weather articles and boots — especially as winter approaches.” l

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Seasonal Standouts: Spring ’21

Ecco Exowrap Mixing the best of the brand’s functional outdoor technology with a street-style aesthetic, the Ecco Exowrap Sandal ($140) has a microfiber-covered footbed and high-quality leather detailing. It is built on an anatomical last using a direct injection process, and follows the natural shape of the foot to deliver support and stability. l

Merrell Cloud Knit Lightweight, comfortable, casual and ecofriendly, Merrell’s $85 Cloud Knit style features a FloatEco Foam midsole, a 30 percent recycled knit upper, 30 percent recycled rubber outsole and 100 percent recycled laces. l

Oboz Sypes The new men’s and women’s Sypes collection is built to perform on the trail with mountain town style. Featuring the brand’s new Bend outsole with 5mm deep lugs, each Sypes style is specifically tuned for gender, support, and rebound for optimal comfort and versatility.

Available in mid and low leather waterproof styles, and a men’s low, prices in the collection range from $135 to $165. l

For a Better Future

www.creora.com | www.hyosungtnc.com creora® is registered trade mark of the Hyosung TNC Corporation for its brand of premium spandex

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Reuse.

Recycle.

Regen.

July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 11

PRODUCT | OUTDOOR TRENDS Active Looks Blend Performance & Style with a Dash of Eco

Tech To Go

Danner / Trail 2650 Campo Built for the hot and rocky conditions found along the beginning section of the 2,650 mile long Pacific Crest Trail, which commences in Campo, CA, the Trail 2650 Campo is technical yet stylish. It has a Vibram 460 outsole with Megagrip, and its linerless design is gaiter-compatible, with drainage ports in its EVA midsole. Available Spring ’21

Hoka One One / Stinson ATR 6 This lightweight, all-terrain shoe utilizes recycled Unifi Repreve yarn and has a refined heel collar for a plush fit. Designed to deliver versatile comfort both on the road and off the grid, the Stinson ATR 6 offers a cushy underfoot experience with the highest volume stack height in the Hoka line-up. Available Fall ’20

Helly Hansen / Odin Minimalist Infinity Jacket This lightweight, minimalist jacket uses Helly Hansen’s new waterproof/breathable LIFA Infinity membrane, which is made without the use of chemicals or solvents.

Constructed with a recycled face fabric and a PFC-free durable water repellent treatment, it delivers professional grade waterproofness and breathability. The jacket also packs into its chest pocket, features hood adjustments and has a RECCO reflector. Available Spring ’21

Darn Tough / Run Collection Socks in the brand’s Run Category have been revamped for 2021. New technical features include targeted, lightweight cushioning in the footbed and toe for impact protection, reinforced high-wear zones for increased durability over long distances, a performance upper with multi-zoned mesh for ventilation and comfort, and a supportive fit through the arch to reduce fatigue. Available Spring ‘21

12 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

Norrøna / Fjørå Flex1 Shorts These functional mid weight shorts are durable and stretchy. Made for mountain biking in warm weather, they use a recycled synthetic mix that offers breathability and moisture-wicking. The shorts have two zippered hand warming pockets and a zippered thigh pocket, as well as a reinforced seat and gusseted crotch.

Available Spring ’21

LIVSN / Flex Canvas Pants Made with the brand’s custom EcoFlex Canvas, a mid weight fabric that is lighter than traditional canvas, these pants have style that crosses over from the street to the trail. Integrated features include a gusseted crotch, articulated knees, zippered security pockets, EDC pockets, a roll-up leg system, ventilation and reinforcements at stress points. A soft, mesh seat liner wicks moisture. Available Now textileinsight.com

SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES AND TECHNOLOGIES FROM SCHOELLER

CREATING THE FUTURE SINCE 1868 Founded in 1868 with headquarters in Switzerland, Schoeller Textil AG is a global leader in high-performance textile manufacturing, specializing in the sustainable development and production of innovative textiles and textile technologies. As a system supplier of solution-oriented products, Schoeller addresses specific customer requirements and supplies its customers and partners with tangible added value.

www.schoeller-textiles.com

TRENDS | SUSTAINABILITY

AN ECO AWAKENING A CLEANER FUTURE. BY EMILY WALZER

hese days consumers and corporations alike are rethinking how to create a better future. With nature playing a central role in the pandemic, a big question being asked personally and professionally is, “How do we as a society gauge what is appropriate for the environment?”

“We need to find solutions that get better over time,” commented Brandi Parker, with Pearlfisher New York, an independent brand design agency.

Parker deals with brand problem solving for consumer goods focusing on product packaging. She advocates a holistic, multi-disciplinary approach in her work as head of realization at Pearlfisher.

“It is critical to have a material strategy right from the beginning that includes planning for the end,” said Parker, who participated in a June webinar series hosted by Material ConneXion on “The Future Relationship of Materials & Design.”

To that end, Parker concluded, “Design doesn’t work without materials. New materials influence design.” Parker cited materials that are recyclable and degradable and disappear immediately in the future as key priorities.

She shared this example from the food industry: “A cucumber needs plastic wrap to keep fresh in the supermarket, but then consumers throw the wrap away. However if cucumbers were bought from a local source, there would be no need for packaging. Or what about using a bio-based spray that would protect the cucumber’s freshness, but is washed off after purchase?”

Parker also suggested the use of mono-materials going forward. “If a product is designed with one material, or at least fewer materials, it is easier to recycle and also be recyclable.” She highlighted algae as a great resource, and is excited about technologies that use enzymes to break down plastic The Importance of Circularity Jason Belaire, outdoor industry veteran and current incoming president of the Industrial Designers Society of America (IDSA) spoke of concerns about a culture of behaviors and emotions that feed into buying and creating without critical thinking. To make his point, Belaire offered

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“If I look at consumer goods at the individual level, the more convenient the product, the less sustainable.

There is an innate tension between the two.”

Brandi Parker, head of realization, Pearlfisher NY

Every year, U.S. landfills are piled high with 139.6 M tons of waste.

a try-this-at-home exercise: Close your eyes and see a landfill. Stare at that image for a minute or two. Then ask yourself what you see. (In this reporter’s case it was an old kitchen appliance, a ratty looking pair of pants, a broken chair, and a worse for wear sneaker.)

“The reality,” said Belaire, “is that designers created all these products, and all have ended up in a landfill. That’s why circular design is so important.”

Acting on this belief, Belaire organized The Sustainability Deep Dive 2020, a three-day virtual event held in June that featured a mix of expert presentations and skill-building sessions meant to “produce a wellspring of innovative ideas and possibilities that are desperately needed to bring about change.” The inaugural event drew upwards of 600 attendees, shining a light on the industrial design community’s hunger for knowledge around sustainability and circularity, according to Belaire.

Convenience also deserves some critical thinking. As the pandemic continues to disrupt routines, convenience is a priority, leading to an increase in home delivery services and take out meals, with sustainability often placed on the backburner.

“If I look at consumer goods at the individual level, the more convenient the product, the less sustainable. There is an innate tension between the two,” said Parker. “The problem is how to retain convenience and make something more sustainable.

Maybe the pandemic will serve as a catalyst to rethink human behavior and concept of convenience.”

That’s why Parker believes biodegradable innovation is so important. She commented, “Sometimes I see something I made on the side of the sidewalk, and I think, ‘I made pretty trash.’”

Parker shared her personal “lightweighting” manifesto that is based on the idea of shifting the weight of environmental responsibility back to the brand, in terms of sustainable design and circularity. “Brands have been pumping out product and leaving the problems to the consumer, in how and when to recycle and what to do when we don’t want or need the product any longer. Consumers shouldn’t have to do all of the heavy lifting when it comes to recycling and end of life process.” l

July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 15

TRENDS | SUSTAINABILITY 2020 Outlook on Product, Partnerships, Promotions and Programs

Next Steps In Sustainability

Eco Endeavors

Packaging: Notpla is a UK-based sustainable packaging start-up that uses seaweed extract to create its plastic alternatives. Its Ooho product is flexible packaging for liquids such as beverages and sauces that has been used to replace plastic cups and bottles at sporting events, including running races. Not only is the Ooho packaging naturally biodegradable – within four to six weeks – it is also edible, “making it ideal for on-the go-consumption,” states the company. A recent Notpla development also advances sustainability when it comes to convenience. The Notpla Liner is a waterproof, greaseproof liner for take-out food boxes that is natural, biodegradable and even re-pulpable. Find more info at www.notpla.com ReSale: In its ongoing effort to support a circular business model, Toad&Co is partnering with thredUP, an online resale marketplace. Toad&Co is the first sustainable outdoor lifestyle brand to partner with thredUP; until now, most thredUP partner brands have come from the fashion and luxury markets. thredUP’s launch with Toad&Co is part of their Resale-As-AService platform. Consumers order a Toad&Co x thredUP Clean Out Kit, fill it with gently used clothes (any brand) and mail it in, and receive a Toad&Co shopping credit.

The secondhand market, and apparel recycling is growing. The secondhand market is expected to reach $64B in the next five years, surpassing pre-COVID projections, and “secondhand” is expected to double its market share in the next decade, according to stats provided by Toad&Co. Footwear: Earlier this year, Allbirds unveiled a label for each shoe, identifying exactly how many kilograms of carbon dioxide were used in the manufacturing process, all the way back to the extraction of raw materials. The goal was to give customers a way of understanding the climate impact of a product the way they read a nutritional label. Now Allbirds and Adidas have joined forces to go a step further and create a shoe with a carbon footprint of just 2 kg that is also scalable.

According to the companies, the average athletic shoe has an average carbon footprint of 12.5 kg; Allbirds’ carbon footprint is roughly 7.6 kg per sneaker, which the company pays to offset by investing in projects that neutralize carbon.

Further details on the upcoming launch of the Allbirds x adidas shoe are not yet available. l 16 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

PrAna’s Fall ’20 Polar Escape Fleece presents an eco-alternative to traditional product with use of recycled polyester.

B

oth Rachel Lincoln and Julie Verdugo followed winding career roads to land at their current positions as directors of sustainability — Lincoln via product development, and Verdugo via artisan endeavors. But both now share a similar outlook on how their respective companies can take a straight path forward to achieve a higher level of environmental and social responsibility. For Lincoln, who is with prAna, and Verdugo, an executive with Free People, the future is focused on circularity.

“Sustainability is the solution to problems we are facing now and thinking about circularity as the answer,” said Verdugo, who admits that Free People is playing catch up in the eco arena. “We had to close 138 stores in the Spring and we had lots of inventory issues. It was the perfect time to springboard sustainable solutions.” Verdugo explained that the company launched a partnership with Poshmark, in addition to a large donation made to the non-profit Career Wardrobe. “We continue to look into upcycling as a large scale program,” said Verdugo.

PrAna is further along in its sustainability journey with a resale and upcycle model in place, in addition to its extensive use of eco-friendly fibers and materials throughout its product line. Yet, Lincoln believes opportunity exists to continue to close the loop. “We are looking at blockchain technology to learn more about product inventory,” said Lincoln.

Verdugo also stressed the importance of educating consumers about sustainability.

She noted Free People’s “CareFP” initiative, launched six months ago, with the tag line, “mindfully taking steps to be a little bit better everyday,” as a good start. “We need to do a better job of messaging. We are doing that internally, when it comes to our sustainability efforts, but not speaking about it to our customers.”

Lincoln commented, “We want consumers to be educated, and to question what our brand puts out there.” She mentioned prAna’s “Its Better Than” approach and belief in “progress not perfection.”

The women don’t shy away from the topic of inclusivity, and together made a case for how inclusivity ties into the sustainability movement. “For many, sustainable product can be a privilege,” said Verdugo.

“The sustainability industry has to address this. We’ve been too quiet for too long and the recent injustices is a wake up call.”

PrAna was established on a platform of “always focusing on people first,” said Lincoln, who highlighted the firm being an early advocate for Fair Trade, and supporting alternative business models that reach out to a wider demographic. “Now we want to amplify these efforts,” Lincoln stated.

Lincoln and Verdugo were featured speakers at the Fashion & Sustainability Summit hosted by Fashiondex and LIM College.

Originally slated for April in New York City, the 2020 Series took place virtually the first week of July. l textileinsight.com

Pioneering the concept of disease-resist clothing, the Full Metal Jacket by Vollebak is the first commercial jacket ever built from mostly copper with over 11 kilometers of copper in every jacket.

TECHNOLOGY | ANTIMICROBIALS A NEW AGE FOR ANTIMICROBIAL DEVELOPMENTS & APPLICATIONS

THE QUEST TO PROTECT

C

By Emily Walzer

all it an extra barrier, or a safety shield, yet regardless of a specific label, consumers are on the lookout for materials that offer protection.

Of course antimicrobials are being used widely for all sort of Personal Protection Equipment (PPE), however, as the COVID crisis continues to influence how people value products in terms of security in all aspects of their lives, antimicrobials are featuring in a diverse range of end uses, whether that’s a jacket, a spin cycle accessory, upholstery and even hygiene for public spaces.

“We’ll see more along these lines, finishes with high-performance, protective claims,” said Stephen Kerns, president, Schoeller Textil NA. “The concept of ‘disease resistant’ clothing, for example, is compelling.”

The concept also resonates within the fitness market. “Gyms are opening and people are more aware of antimicrobial protection,” said Casey Chavez, founder of California based brand Lutava, which launched a line of fitness accessories with FitShield technology in June. “I think now with the pandemic, and going forward, consumers are more receptive to products with antimicrobial technology. It’s not a trend, its now a way of life,” said Chavez.

Ingredient brand specialists, like Consolidated Pathways, Sanitzed, HeiQ, and DuPont have been producing highperforming antimicrobials for years.

Now, however, firms are broadening offerings to suit a today’s heightened awareness around protection, personally and in public.

For example, Consolidated Pathways has recently launched ProTecht a new family of sustainable textile finish technologies. “What we bring is different chemistries to provide multiple benefits,” said Consolidated Pathways, co-founder, Robert Monticello.

In addition, Consolidated Pathways, based in Midland, MI, will now serve as global brand and technical representative for the Sanitized line of antimicrobials focusing on commercializing Sanitized products in textiles. And, according to the companies, the new relationship allows Consolidated Pathways to “use its broad experience in polymer-based antimicrobials to extend the reach of the unique technologies that Sanitized AG offers.”

Located in Burgdorf, Switzerland, Sanitized has been a leader in antimicrobials since 1935 providing, safe antimicrobials for textiles, coatings and polymers suitable for a range of markets. In a statement released by the company earlier this month, Sanitized confirmed effectiveness of anti-viral properties of selected Sanitized products on hard, non-porous surfaces, specifically used in the area of public transportation, thus confirming the Swiss firm’s belief in textileinsight.com

today’s need for what the company refers to as “comprehensive hygiene management.”

Zurich-based HeiQ product is also gaining importance during this unsettled time of the pandemic. The introduction of Viroblock NPJ03 has already resulted in significant inroads made in the production of medical grade high-performance protective masks. The antiviral and antimicrobial textile treatment is a combination of vesicle and silver technologies, designed to inhibit the growth and persistence of bacteria and viruses and has shown during facemask testing to be effective against human coronavirus. (For more on HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03 see the archived May/June issue of Textile Insight on textileinsight.com.)

Metal Matters The inherent performance properties of silver have an established track record in antimicrobial solutions. Other minerals, such as copper and zinc, have also been recognized in textile applications for years.

In fact belief in the curative properties of natural metals dates back centuries. What’s new is how these metals are now being used in innovative ways for contemporary lifestyle applications.

Vollebak’s Full Metal Jacket is a prime example of this trend. In development for approximately 18 months, the product features a three-layer Schoeller fabric built in Switzerland that is consists of 65 percent copper, 23 percent polyamide and 12 percent polyurethane. The jacket also features Schoeller c_change membrane.

“Disease resistance will become a requirement of clothing in the future, and that’s why we’re starting to work with copper now,” stated Vollebak co-founder Steve Tidball.

Vollebak co-founder Nick Tidball added: “We wanted to see if it was possible to start making clothing built almost entirely out of copper. The Full Metal Jacket is our first iteration of copper clothing and proof of viability. While it might look like it’s come from another planet, it’s designed to be worn like a normal jacket. And it doesn’t feel like you’re wearing metal – the copper is woven into a flexible yarn and the jacket is fleece-lined, so it’s comfortable enough to be worn every day.”

The brothers admit that turning a metal into a wearable and highperformance fabric is a highly complex process. The first of the jacket’s three layers is made from a lacquered copper yarn. The lacquer is completely clear and acts as protection, so the color of each jacket is the color of the dyed copper beneath it. The face fabric is laminated with Schoeller’s c_change waterproof and breathable membrane engineered to respond to different weather conditions while retaining performance.

July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 19

TECHNOLOGY | ANTIMICROBIALS Once the metal face fabric and advanced membrane have been bonded together, an abrasion resistant polyamide backing is added.

Over time, the fabric will wear like denim, with crease lines emerging and colors fading gradually to reveal the raw copper color.

The Full Metal Jacket has significant heft, and significant cost. But the brothers make a case for the use of copper explaining its functionality in an official statement that reports, “Copper is biostatic, which means that bacteria and other life forms will not grow on it. It also has exceptional antimicrobial properties with bacteria and viruses dying as they make contact with it: the copper releases electrically charged ions which first make it difficult for microbes to breathe, before punching holes in its outer membrane, moving in and completely wiping out its DNA, preventing it from developing any future resistance.”

Silver Goes to the Gym Silver is a proven and trusted antimicrobial agent that is more accessible in terms of cost, than copper, and widely available, too.

Silver is also the ingredient in FitShield, offered in Lutava’s new line of products targeting the boutique fitness market.

Lutava founder, Casey Chavez, explained that her patented FitShield technology “inhibits and kills 99 percent of bacteria and viruses within two hours.” The silver-based antimicrobial treatment is used in a Lutava Spin bike seat cover, a Grip bike handlebar cover and a Drive car seat slipcover. Described as a “clean fitness solution,” FitShield is engineered to combat the most common bacterial strains found in gyms -- including but not limited to Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus Aureus – in addition to viruses including Influenza A, Bird Flu, and Norovirus.

FitShield uses silver ions (Ag+) rather than silver particles, and according to the company, “the polymers adhere inherently to fiber surfaces, providing long lasting antimicrobial protection on fabrics. It is recyclable and reusable during processing applications due to its 20 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

inherent UV stability and water solubility.”

Chavez explained the idea behind FitShield was to protect against cross contamination of germs, combined with a trend she identified in the premium sector the fitness market.

“Unlike gyms, boutique fitness studios, don’t have showers – you just go for the class and leave wearing your workout apparel,” said Chavez, who recalls getting into her car after class wearing sweaty clothing and using a towel as a seat cover.

The Lutava product line is made from a layered stretch fabric with antimicrobial protection on both sides. “I focused on gym related bacteria initially,” said Chavez, “But during the COVID crisis with gyms closed I went back and re-engineered the technology for higher performance and viral efficacy and eliminate cross-contamination.”

Zeroing in on Zinc Houston, TX-based Ascend Performance Materials has introduced Acteev Protect, a technology for a wide assortment of products including facemasks, apparel, upholstery and air filters.

“The current global scarcity of microbe-resistant materials is not going to end unless manufacturers are able to obtain the right media,” said Lu Zhang, Ph.D., Ascend’s vice president leading the Acteev launch.

“We saw a way we could quickly meet those urgent needs with this innovative technology.”

Specifically, Acteev Protect combines zinc ion technology with polyamide-based woven, nonwoven and knit fabrics. The active zinc ions are embedded into the polymer matrix that is a long-lasting solution.

According to the firm, the polyamide fabrics are durable yet soft to the skin, and the nonwoven filtration media – available as nanofibers, meltblown and spunbond – efficiently keep out unwanted particles.

The embedded zinc in its ionic form is a powerful inhibitor of bacterial growth, according to Vikram Gopal, Ph.D., Ascend’s senior vice president of technology. “Zinc is an essential element needed for bacterial growth, so bacteria readily allows it

“We’ll see more along these lines, finishes with high-performance, protective claims; The concept of ‘disease resistant’ clothing, for example, is compelling.”

Stephen Kerns, president, Schoeller Textil NA

“I think now with the pandemic, and going forward, consumers are more receptive to products with antimicrobial technology. It’s not a trend, its now a way of life,” Casey Chavez, founder, Lutava

“What we bring is different chemistries to provide multiple benefits,” Robert Monticello, co-founder, Consolidated Pathways

“IAC Certification is an important building block for production chain transparency in the textile industry, which is demanded by a growing number of manufacturers and brands that are driven by end customer requirements.”

Erich Rohrbach, head of microbiology, Sanitized

inside the cell body. But the zinc ion outcompetes other essential elements such as manganese and magnesium and chokes their ingestion channels,” he said. “Without those minerals, the microbes can’t grow or reproduce.”

He added that zinc is labeled as “Generally Regarded as Safe,” by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.

Polyamide 6,6 wovens and knits have considerable advantages over other types of nylons in garments and other textile applications, said Harrie Schoots, president-elect of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and a senior business leader of Ascend’s textile business.

“This material resists abrasion and doesn’t pill or shed microfibers. It has a soft hand and excellent drape, and it can be dyed solid or bright colors,” Schoots said. “Uniforms or activewear made with Acteev Protect will be durable and comfortable and can be designed to match current color trends.”

Additionally, these features will last the lifetime of the garment. “Because the zinc ions are embedded during the polymerization process, knit and woven articles made with Acteev Protect stand up to 50 washes or more,” Schoots said.

Ascend is a fully integrated producer of polyamide 6,6 resins and also manufactures fibers and chemicals. Acteev Protect is the company’s first product offering available in ready-to-use fabric form factors.

A Holistic Approach Consolidated Pathways, launched in 2019, was co-founded by Robert Monticello and Jim Krueger, who have worked in the antimicrobial space for decades in addition to serving on the board of the International Antimicrobial Council. With the company’s latest introduction, ProTecht, the execs usher in a new sustainably minded approach to antimicrobials, exemplified by the tagline: ProTecht Yourself, Your Community, Your Environment. Along with bringing different chemistries to mills, distributors, and brands, the Consolidated Pathways team also brings expertise in testing and technical services.

According to Monticello, the textileinsight.com

ProTecht system is based on the holistic approach that includes biocidal, non-biocidal and biobased approaches to controlling bacterial growth on a textile surface. ProTecht technologies offer an easy-to-apply liquid formulation and features compatibility with a broad range of textile additives and finishing treatments.

Additional advantages outlined by the company include performance features that can also be applied to natural, synthetic, blended and recycled fibers and fabrics, and do not impact the feel or aesthetic properties of the textiles.

The company prioritizes ProTecht eco-friendly properties and is mindful of the rigorous environmental impact of laundry. Because protective treatments for freshness and protection are inherently durable, these textiles require less frequent washes. The company states, “The added value of ProTecht reminds consumers to be environmentally conscious of their personal water and energy consumption. Similarly, it empowers consumers to continue to support and purchase eco-friendly products that deliver quality performance.”

Personal Safety & Public Spaces Sanitized recently announced that tests conducted by independent laboratories have confirmed that several Sanitized products have an effectiveness against viruses on polymer surfaces.

Sanitized views its additives as the perfect tool for an antiviral and antibacterial treatment of different polymer types that can play a role not only in healthcare applications and technical applications but everyday necessities from mattress protectors to the food industry as well as public transportation.

Before any product’s antiviral properties can be claimed, viral tests must be performed of the treated articles in specialized laboratories. Compliance with local legal regulations is essential. Sanitized AG explicitly points out that this is a standard procedure and has composed a preliminary Sanitized Regulatory Guide: Placing antiviral and antimicrobial treated polymers on the market.

To advance transparency regarding responsible use of biocides, Sanitized also announced recently that it had its in-house Microbiology Lab in its TecCenter certified by the International Antimicrobial Council (IAC). The company’s TecCenter provides textile and polymer product manufacturers assistance and R&D support for their products. It supervises technical application aspects, and conducts microbiological tests and analytics.

With the IAC Certification, Sanitized AG now offers innovation expertise according to international standards that are also recognized and valued in the U.S. and Asia. Explained Erich Rohrbach, head of microbiology at Sanitized, “This is an important building block for production chain transparency in the textile industry, which is demanded by a growing number of manufacturers and brands that are driven by end customer requirements.”

Hygiene at Home A recent collaboration with 1888 Mills and DuPont has produced a collection of home textiles that is currently offered at major retailers nationally. The Freshee product line of sheets and towels feature DuPont’s consumer brand Intellifresh, powered by the company’s Silvadur antimicrobial technology.

Silvadur uses a patented polymer technology to deliver silver ions via an “intelligent control” mechanism.

The technology is particle free and readily water-dilutable, forming phase stable and solids-free finishing bath solutions for easy and rapid processing of fabric when used appropriately.

Silvadur binds to bacterial DNA preventing replication, and binds with the cellular membrane causing structural and functional changes in the bacterial membranes leading to their inability to properly function.

Notable, too, is that Silvadur chemistry meets industry sustainability standards; it is bluesign approved and a bluesign System Partner, as well as registered to meet REACH requirements in the EU, and recognized and listed as an Active Chemical Product (with biological activity) certified by the Oeko-Tex Association. l

Sustainable odor control

Antimicrobial and odor control

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23/06/2020 16:18:15

VOICES | Q&A WITH DAVID J. PROCTOR, PH.D What You Need to Know Right Now Regarding AntiMicrobial Textile Tech.

Clearing the Confusion

As coronavirus continues to run its course, textile treatments to combat the disease are entering the marketplace at a rapid rate with a surge of interest around antimicrobial and anti-viral solutions. This is creating a lot of confusion around what is, and what isn’t, an effective textile technology. We went to the source to set the record straight. David J. Proctor, Ph.D. is the technology director of the International Antimicrobial Council (IAC). Who better to offer a clear understanding of the latest

developments and provide what we need to know now in the time of COVID-19, as well as learn the influence of the pandemic on innovations going forward? Here are Dr. Protcor’s expert responses:

How do you define “antimicrobial” and how is that different from “anti-viral” and “antibacterial?”

Antimicrobial is a general term that refers to agents or approaches acting on microscopic organisms such as bacteria, fungi, and protists, as well as viruses. This is in contrast to antiviral and antibacterial, which refer to agents or approaches that specifically act upon viruses and bacteria, respectively.

What test methods are recommended and are there specific levels of performance these 22 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

agents need to achieve?

The answer depends on the substrate, antimicrobial technology and organisms in question.

According to ASTM Committee E35 on Pesticides, Antimicrobials, and Alternative Control Agents, for the quantitative measurement of the efficacy of antiviral agents, a modification of ISO 18184:2019 that incorporates a human coronavirus surrogate and associated cell line is ideal for testing that can be carried out in a Biosafety Level 2 laboratory.

This new ASTM methodology (currently

a draft within ASTM E35.15 wk73068) will be more adapted for measuring antiviral performance of antimicrobial agents on textiles without introducing potential bias due to pre-sterilization of textile samples.

For the quantitative measurement of the efficacy of antibacterial agents, AATCC 100-2019 is the most current method available. This method has the advantage of being well established, and measures antibacterial activity against both Grampositive and Gram-negative organisms. ASTM E3160 and ASTM E2149 have also been used textileinsight.com

and are excellent options for routine quality control methods. Outside of the United States, similar methods may be more readily recognized such as ISO 20743 or JIS L1902.

These antiviral and antibacterial methods were specifically designed for porous substrates such as textiles. Related test methods are available for non-porous substrates that mirror the methods mentioned here.

For both antiviral and antibacterial agents, a 3-log or 99.9 percent reduction in the quantity of viral infection or bacterial count can often be achieved, especially in the absence of durability testing. FDA and EPA registration of antiviral and antibacterial agents requires even greater efficacy.

that are registered with the EPA may be exempt from regulation under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA). Details are available in the EPA Pesticide Registration (PR) Notice 2000 – 1, which is easy to search for online and is readily available on the EPA website.

only SARS-CoV-2, but future viruses and microorganisms. What do these viruses and organisms have in common that we can exploit to protect ourselves? What technologies do we have in hand that we can improve for this future fight? What new technologies do we need to develop that will allow us to tackle unforeseen aspects of transmission and infection from future viruses and microorganisms, e.g. a safe, effective, flexible platform that we can add different technologies to? There is much work to be done.

The IAC continues to work with IAC Certified laboratories that can provide IAC Verified test reports. These IAC Verified test reports are critical to ensure that the antibacterial and antiviral testing has been performed by laboratories are capable and competent to run these specific test methods. The IAC continues to work with International Testing Standards groups to develop the latest useful and predictive test methods that can be used in the market to measure antimicrobial properties on surfaces. The IAC continues its Mission to promote the prudent and responsible use of antimicrobial agents in the Marketplace. l

How is the IAC assessing the COVID-19 situation with regards to what’s happening with textile ingredient technology being developed specifically to fight the virus?

And how is today’s reaction to the pandemic influencing future developments of antimicrobials?

The IAC continues to work with industry partners to evaluate promising R&D findings that may demonstrate efficacy against SARS-CoV-2. Additionally, we continue to educate our community about what is known, and how to assess new claims and new products. A lot of great work is being done in the antimicrobial industry and adjacent industries to advance what we know and what we can do to fight the virus.

Forward-looking R&D organizations are considering what technologies we have, or need to develop, in order to fight not

Which certifications are required in order to make accurate claims? FDA? EPA? Other independent 3rd party labs?

Currently, no claims can be made about the antiviral activity of a treated article in the United States or European Union. Although this hasn’t stopped many companies from making claims, regulators have already begun to respond to violations.

In the United States, antibacterial agents

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July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 23

Next Season’s Collections Usher in Dressing with Intention. By Emily Walzer

A New Active Uniform

Trend forecasters are having a field day predicting what consumers will want to wear in the future. The “Work From Home” wardrobe established during coronavirus restrictions likely will stick around, but even that category of clothing will give way to new silhouettes and fabrications elevating the loungewear look defining our pandemic lifestyles. But Spring/Summer ’22 collections aim higher, say experts, with fabrications that usher in a new era of high quality, functionally fit, eco-conscious active/outdoor apparel. It is believed that the period of prolonged reflection and isolation during COVID sparked a re-evaluation of what we wear. The result: Slow fashion replacing fast fashion and timelessness replacing here-today-gone-tomorrow trendiness.

Dressing with intention” is next season’s mantra, with “purposeful” “responsible” and “functional” routinely used to describe new active collections. An expectation of durability, both in terms of textile longevity and emotional attachment is also a key attribute of Spring ’22 active trends. Minimalist designs, calm colors and transparency are also defining features.

In her Kingpins24 talk on post pandemic consumption habits, Dilek Erik an executive with denim brand Sharabati Denim explained, “Consumers are re-defining expectations and asking more from their purchases. They have higher standards, want extra performance, and are more appreciative of quality. They want to be uplifted by what they wear, and knowledgeable about what goes into making their products.”

24 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

Emergence of a Natural Revolution “This is a cool moment in trend history,” commented Sue Jesch, director of design, Smartwool. “Consumers are more focused on being self reliant, making more out of less, and trying DIY hacks. Designers are focused on better product, simplicity and perfectly thought through product. Collections are pared down to feature thoughtful, functionally-based garments that allow for crossover appeal.”

Jesch added, “Loungewear has been in the spotlight. Comfort is important, but what sets Smartwool apart is longevity and investment and this makes it attractive to consumers going forward” Innovation for purpose is the focus of Smartwool’s Spring ’22 collection, which Jesch has themed “Emergence.” There is a strong spotlight on responsible development. She explained that while articles remain heavy on the Merino, blends with Tencel and bio-based yarns, along with linen and ramie will debut. “I

see it as a Natural Revolution,” stated Jesch.

In addition, Smartwool is expanding its use of plant-based dyes and exploring utilizing natural color wool. Further, repurposed wool, from excess material, will also be filtered into new products.

“Smartwool is keeping the foot on the gas with sustainable efforts to protect our outdoor playground,” Jesch concluded.

Less is More Prevails Cotton Incorporated’s Spring/Summer 2022 active trend overview included lifestyle influences, color selection, and fabric trend direction.

Senior trend forecaster and activewear specialist Jenna Caccavo identified “Down to Earth” as the number one big trend of S/S 22.

The trend is based on practical, solutionoriented designs that reflect consumers desire for quality over quantity, explained Caccavo, an activewear specialist for Cotton’s fashion marketing department. “Protective elements will be the required norm.” Clean, monochromatic looks that exude a Zen-like feeling of security are on trend.

Caccavo forecasts “calm and capable” designs with a soft aesthetic with soothing colors yet are tech driven. Compact knits will feature clean, smooth surfaces. Chemical-free performance will be important, too. Said Caccavo, “The structure of the fabric will get the job done. Functionally will be achieved by construction.”

The theme of “Simplified Utility” will be the order of the day in S/S ’22, translated to clothing that allows the wearer to be prepared for anything, and not look out of place anywhere,” shared Caccavo.

Utilitarian Refinement “Fashion needs upgrading with good design, with purpose. Not just a sustainability hang tag on an unemotional replacement product,” announced Jos Berry, who hosted a panel discussion as part of the Interfilière talk series organized on by the Eurovet tradeshow organization.

“We are entering a completely new world, following this period of reflection during which women found what is important in their lives, what they want to achieve and find beautiful,” said Berry, a leading voice in the lingerie, swim

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and loungewear industry.

Women are comfort creatures said Berry, who noted that activewear brands have been leading the charge on this design concept. However, lingerie brands are no longer obsessed by tradition, according to Berry, and are now moving in the direction of what Berry calls “Smart Design.” These are garments that one can dress up, or dress down, and combine comfort with femininity.

Panelist Jenny Wigham, a design consultant, noted that “better living with less” is a strong trend for S/S ’22, which she has themed “Essence.” Designers will take a functional classic look and elevate essential attributes and make it modern,” forecasts Wigham.

Fuss-free and easy on the eye, but not plain or boring, S/S ’22 will feature textile innovation, said Wigham. She sees evolution in “considered design” and “slow design,” an approach that adds builds a sustainable future.

Sustainability Sustainability continues to be a top-ofmind trend for next season’s developments, whether that’s in active, intimates or outdoor.

“Communication, transparency and diversity are keys to sustainability,” said Aude Penouty, a design consultant for Entada Textile. “And it all starts with the fabric.”

Viginie Wittmer, business unit manager at Sofileta, agreed, describing her company’s clean supply chain and business model as an example. Based in France, Sofileta takes a holistic approach incorporating social and eco responsibility from ingredients to finished product. Recent textile advances include fiber made from a blend of new-generation polyamide 6,6, that can decompose quickly when in discarded in nature or a landfill.

Called Amni Soul Eco, the new textile has a unique composition that allows bacteria to eat and digest it, thus accelerating the biodegradation process.

As well as being biodegradable, Amni Soul Eco offers comfort and softness, while offering breathable properties. It’s easy-care and machine washable, according to Wittmer.

When it comes to sustainable practices, Berry takes a wide view, stating, “Sustainability is not only the fiber, or the end product, but how you behave, awareness of creativity and providing a pleasant life to others.” l

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“This is a cool moment in trend history, collections are pared down to feature thoughtful, functionallybased garments that allow for crossover appeal.”

Sue Jesch, director of design, Smartwool

“Compact knits will feature clean, smooth surfaces.

Chemical-free performance will be important, too.”

Jenna Caccavo, senior trend forecaster/ activewear specialist, Cotton Incorporated

July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 25

RETAIL | CEO Q&A Takeaways from the National Retail Federation Series on Leadership

Shop Talk

The ability to share screen time with industry leaders for candid conversation about corporate decision-making is as easy as a click on a Zoom link. For example, National Retail Federation (NRF) president and CEO Matthew Shay is hosting weekly online sit- downs with top execs at major corporations focused on the topic of leadership during COVID-19. We caught four recent episodes of the ongoing NRF series that featured Marvin Ellison, Lowe’s; Brian Cornell, Target; Hal Lawton, Tractor Supply; and Chris Nassetta, Hilton. Here’s an edited version of what they had to say about challenges faced in the early days of the pandemic, customer trends, and changes made with an eye on the future.

Marvin Ellison, CEO and president, Lowe’s 2000+ locations in the U.S. and Canada representing 207.8 million square feet of retail selling space and $72B in sales.

On Employee Support: Made a $450M commit-

“Sometimes you have to talk less and do more.”

26 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

ment that included a chunk dedicated to special paid bonuses in March and May with another round of bonuses upcoming; increased hourly wages, mandated free tele-health medical benefits to hourly wage associates.

On Talking Less, Doing More: “That has been part of my policy since I stepped into my current post,” said Ellison. In just two years under Ellison’s watch, Lowe’s has undergone a “cultural transformation,” creating a significantly more diversified upper management team. “The talent

is out there,” stated Ellison. “I would direct leaders to have conversations about racial injustice, force tough conversations, listen and learn. Sometimes you have to talk less and do more.”

On e-commerce: Overhauled a decades-old online platform, and accelerated 2021 strategies to achieve new level of “seamless and friendly” customer experience with features including curbside pick up, same day and next day service, in-store lockers and an updated mobile app, resulting in 80 percent growth in e-commerce. “Previously e-commerce accounted for less than 10 percent. l

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Chris Nassetta, president and CEO, Hilton 1M hotel rooms globally and 6100 properties, celebrated its centennial in 2019.

On Recovery: “Q2 revenue declined 80-90 percent.

Even in the Great Recession it only declined 20 percent. Business is slowly ticking up. The early stage recovery is in leisure travel. People are going nuts staying home; they’re saying ‘let me out of the basement.’ Business travel will take longer to return, likely three years to get back to pre-pandemic levels.” Nassetta expects a “snap back” to business in the Fall and a slow dig out from there.

On Investment: Hilton made significant investment in “Clean Stay” — a partnership with the Mayo Clinic and Lysol to establish hospital

cleanliness standards at Hilton properties. Tech investments also focus on cleanliness and built upon Hilton’s current “contactless-entry” feature using an iPhone. Excess room clutter (pens, pads, etc.) is being eliminated with future tech developed to be “touch-less” in nature.

On the Future of Business Gatherings: “It will be a hybrid. You need face to face, but these inperson events will be smaller gatherings, and as a result you’ll have gatherings that are part physical and part digital. There will be investment in technology to meet both needs.” l

“People are going nuts staying home; they’re saying ‘let me out of the basement.”

Brian Cornell, board chairman & CEO, Target 1900 stores, 35,000 employees and $80B in sales.

On Performance: The pandemic has been like

“a stress test for digital demand with decades of change condensed into four months,” said Cornell. “Q1 digital business was up 141 percent and digital business has continued to surge. Same day fulfillment grew by 300 percent.”

On Consumer Behavior that will stick:

“Millions of consumers have learned how

to shop online and are now hooked on the convenience of placing an order and picking it up. Greater focus on safety; continued focus on value and trust in the vendor.”

On Looking Ahead: “In a recent Deloitte survey of CEOs, half of respondents said business would be back on track by Jan 2021, while the other half believed it would take until June 2021 to be back to pre-pandemic levels.” l

“Millions of consumers have learned how to shop online and are now hooked.”

Hal Lawton, president & CEO, Tractor Supply Co. 37,000 employees with stores in 49 states generating $9B in revenue.

On Consumer Behavior adopted during COVID that will stick: “Radical adoption of technology;

expectation of wider fulfillment options; leveled up customer service and contact-less payment methods becoming the norm.”

On Investments: Gave appreciation bonuses, raised minimum wage, hired new employees, with a $50M investment in Q2 to stay ahead of the curve with services designed for COVID landscape.

Also created an ad campaign with national reach to attract new customers.

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On the “out here” lifestyle trend: Lawton describes

2020 as “the year of the backyard” based on a flourishing “out here” consumer lifestyle trend.

This translates to individuals in rural communities living on 10 acres of land and a couple horses, as well as suburbanites building chicken coops and raised bed sustainable gardens, who collectively now want to be “active while staying in the neighborhood.”

“That’s where America is right now, and that’s going to stay in the absence of a vaccine,” said Lawton. l

“The year of the backyard.”

July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 27

TRENDINSIGHT We surveyed 414 consumers. Here is what they told us.

THE SURVEY

Textile Technology Resonates with Today’s Shoppers OVER 80 PERCENT OF SURVEY TAKERS ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THEY SPECIFICALLY SEEK OUT GARMENTS

made with multi-functional fabrics, and upwards of a third of respondents reported wardrobes built around garments that transition from sport to street. Further, when participants were asked about textile performance features that most resonate with their purchase decision-making, “anti-microbial” was top of mind. Consumer desire for versatile, functional, active apparel and footwear is nothing new, however, the trend has strengthened considerably during the pandemic as individuals become more attuned to taking safety measures to combat COVID-19. A good example is how next-to-skin products are now perceived. Not only has investment in performance underwear increased during the past six months, but a majority of survey responders say that this category of clothing is now “very important” to their overall active wardrobe. n The survey, conducted by MESH01, included 414 respondents, men and women, with an average age of 35 years old.

What percentage of your current workout wardrobe transitions easily from workout to streetwear?

32%

28%

19% less than 10%

1%

13%

8% 10%-25%

26%-50%

51%-75%

What catch-all term resonates the most when shopping for active apparel and footwear?

76%-100%

Ultra

YES CARPE TRENDEM

86%

SEIZE THE TREND!

28 • Textile Insight ~ July / August 2020

NO

8%

5%

7%

Sustainable

Fashionable

Technical

Are there new terms that now resonate when shopping for active apparel and footwear?

Performance

34%

Functional

50%

24%

Do you specifically seek out garments made with multifunctional fabrics to fit your active lifestyle needs?

14%

33%

44%

9% Safe

14% Anti-Viral

Protective

I have not heard of any new terms

Anti-microbial

Trend Insight Consumer is a feature within Textile Insight that delivers research conducted on the MESH01 Platform. MESH01 collects data from a select panel of sports enthusiasts. For information on the Mesh1 Platform, contact Brian Bednarek at 603-766-0957 or brian.bednarek@mesh01.com.

For more information on Trend Insight Consumer and how your company can participate, contact Jeff Nott at 516-305-4711 or jnott@formula4media.com.

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POWERED BY

www.mesh01.com

Would you pay more for active apparel or footwear described as having some kind of antimicrobial or anti-viral attributes?

YES

59%

40%

NO

41%

If you answered yes, how much more are you willing to spend?

26%

5-10% more

10-20% more

4%

20-25%

+25%

more

Have you increased your investment in performance underwear, such as sport bra or briefs made from technical textiles, in the past six months?

YES

YES

48% 52%

NO

24% 6%

I would not be willing to pay anything more

Has the focus on the different levels of personal protection that facemasks offer, made you more aware of the importance of performance textiles in general?

55% 45%

NO

If you answered, yes, how important is the performance underwear category to your overall active wardrobe?

As the pandemic disrupted our shopping routines, leading to more e-commerce, curbside pick-ups, and home deliveries, have your attitudes on sustainability changed to reflect today’s convenience and safety over your environmental responsibility?

YES

53% 47%

NO

If yes, do you feel that it is still the brand’s responsibility to manufacture in the most environmentally-friendly way?

53% 35% 12% Very important

textileinsight.com

Important

YES

6%

94%

NO

Somewhat important

July / August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 29

TRENDINSIGHT

Is there one wardrobe item that now ranks as essential to your workout routine based on your fitness experiences during the pandemic and why?

Sports bra, because I don’t want to chafe from awkward seams and have an open wound around people. Female 35 Leggings and sports bra.

Female 39

Female 25

Facemask.

Female 44

Workout gloves that can be machine washed and are good for gripping exercise equipment. Also, great for keeping my hands clean when handling high touch areas.

Male 53

Need performance masks for workouts.

Female 43

Running shorts. Running increased during pandemic and I now wear running shorts as casual wear.

Female 42

Men’s workout spandex and shorts.

Male 26

Comfortable, fast dry underwear and short.

Female 35

Yes, my workout pants are anti-microbial. I like the fact that they help protect me again certain germs especially while sweating.

Female 47

Leggings with pockets to keep my phone on me at all times so I can respond to emails/calls/texts and participate in Zoom calls easily around the house while also watching/ occupying my 2 kids.

Female 33

Socks. Having the comfort and moisture wicking fabric of nice socks are a must for my workouts.

Neck gaiter. In some areas I can pretty easily stay 6 feet from other runners/ cyclists/ walkers. In areas where I can’t do that, I wear a neck gaiter and pull it up when I get close to other folks.

Since it’s summer I would love to find a fabric that would keep me cool.

Female 43

No, all my gear works together as a system.

Male 35

Hoodie. To be fully safely covered.

Female 36 A workout towel.

Female 48

Fitness bra. That’s the important thing for ladies.

A good sports bra is essential because I’m exercising more during the pandemic. Also, running shoes because I’m going through them much faster than pre-Covid.

Male 37

Female 32

A work-out bra is a must have for me, since I can wear it all day and keep moving. Female 32

Yoga pants. Performance, function, versatility.

Female 35 Female 33

2 in 1 shorts with a compression underwear built in. Male 32

Pants. Exercising more so like the athleisure look but with performance capacity.

Female 38

Being female, the sports bra is the most important article. Followed closely with leggings.

A mask and sports gloves.

Shoes. Shoes make the run. Male 38 Pants/shorts with pockets.

Female 29

30 • Textile Insight ~ July / August 2020

Good shoes. Good inserts.

You always have to protect your feet and make sure they support you properly and to also help with possible back problems.

Female 32

Yes, shorts and leggings that transition easily from exercise to work to lounge.

Female 31

Lightweight long sleeve hoodie, it’s the comfort and I also feel protection with long sleeve with the hood.

Male 51

Sports bra. Especially one that carries a phone.

I don’t like running without my phone, it just doesn’t feel safe. And a sports bra that does the job of a sports bra well AND carries my phone is one I will purchase.

Female 37

I seek out performance underwear to stay cool and to stay dry. I don’t like to feel wet or clammy after I have just been walking or doing a physical workout.

Male 42

Hydration pack, as water fountains are not available.

Male 35

Breathable face covering.

Female 39

Male 34

Padded bike shorts. I’ve been cycling and mountain biking more lately. They make a huge difference.

My anti-microbial yoga pants ranks as essential in my workout routine nowadays because it’s always nice to stay extra protective.

Male 40

Higher-waist leggings that don’t fall down during yoga.

Female 26

UV neck gaiter - if I need to stop for a restroom or water, I can use it as a mask.

Female 35

Female 34

This may not be a wardrobe but a good towel is essential to me now.

I have been going at a higher intensity then usual so I sweat more.

Male 24

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STRATEGIES | TEXTILE DIGITALIZATION As In-Person Events and Meetings Cease, Textiles Take Shape Online. By Suzanne Blecher

2020 in 3D

I

n a time of Zoom meetings and virtual trade shows, Taiwan-based Frontier has experienced increased demand for its digital fabric development platform.

The co-working software as a service (SaaS) designed to digitize fabrics, enhance supply chain management and employ 3D design capabilities launched in April 2019.

Frontier’s platform has over 20,000 materials from mills in Asia Pacific, allowing users to upload textiles with a scanner to the firm’s cloud, enabling members to communicae and develop products.

“COVID-19 shrank everyone’s wallet and has put many brands out of business, so

Taiwan-based Frontier has developed a co-working software service specializing in digitizing fabrics ideal for “e-commerce 5.0” fashion.

there’s a surge in interest to cut costs,” explained Wayne Fan, chief strategy officer at Frontier. “People also want to move their assets into the cloud for security and remote work.”

With teams spread out all over the world, Frontier strives to make it easy for mills, brand partners and suppliers to upload fabrics. The firm’s artificial intelligence processes the data by clustering, tagging and reducing noise. “Making fabrics more realistic and garment rendering more accurate is only one aspect of 3D technology,” the exec noted. “The central theme these days is raising awareness toward digital transformation, implementation of 3D into

32 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

daily workflow and supply chain adaptability.” Brands like Under Armour, for one, have moved into 3D garment design to potentially increase margin, speed to market and make improved sales decisions based on gathered data.

For consumers, Fan sees “E-Commerce Fashion 5.0,” as he has coined it, coming sooner than previously imagined. “Imagine you browse a dress shirt online (3D rendered) and a body scan taken with your phone; you click and make payment, then a fulfillment center aggregates these orders where fabric materials get shipped from Indonesia to NYC where some machinery

design to cut and make dress shirts best, then the product is shipped to your home in two weeks with competitive pricing.” The technology is available, he said, “and the market is finally ripe for adoption.”

“In Action” Images At the material library of New York City-based material science firm, Material ConneXion, members are currently allowed to visit the archives by appointment only.

Clients including Adidas, Puma and Nike have access to innovative, sustainable materials and technologies from 75+ industries.

During this time “we still offer samples to see and touch. We continue to update and add

materials, processes and technologies,” said Andrew Dent, PhD, executive vice president of materials research. However, Dent and his team have changed the organization of the physical samples to better accommodate solutions for technology platforms such as lightweight, 3D printing, insulation, high performance and new resins.

Clients are still doing a lot of research, the exec said, with enhanced emphasis on sustainability and a circular economy.

Anti-bacterial also has experienced renewed concern, for reasons beyond anti-odor, and new natural fibers including “plastic-free” are on client’s minds.

To help simplify a client’s experience, the firm has improved its search capabilities to include a lot of performance, property and sustainability information, as well as technical datasheets, as available. For those who cannot travel to a physical library location, Material ConneXion offers online workshops and Zoom conference calls. The best option for Dent is sending physical samples to clients, as well as high -resolution digital images of materials “in-action” (stretching, bending, draping, etc.).

Bringing Textiles to Life To enhance the apparel purchasing experience for the consumer, Snap36 automates image capture using robotic equipment and workflow software. 360 degree and 3D spin photography ensure customers will see every “stitch, seam, sequin and stripe,” according to the firm. Caleres, Rocky Brands and Greg Norman Collection are clients.

To show a virtual walk down the catwalk, the firm’s Virtual Rotating Runway (VRR) lets the end-user witness how clothing fits and moves on a live model. The secret is a treadmill set flush to a platform, enabling the model to walk as the platform rotates 360 degrees.

Italian IT management firm Assyst offers digitalization of design and sampling with technology that delivers 3D garments on a screen. Images are so lifelike, from silhouette to fabric, that they appear to be real samples to the naked eye. Benefits include waste reduction at the sample stage, plus an increasingly controlled delivery in production, with fewer garment rejections and an accelerated speed from sampling approval to production. l

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EDUCATION | UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH Researchers Create a Textile Coating that Repels Viruses. By Kathlyn Swantko

Combatting COVID-19

A

s scientists throughout the world a scramble to develop an effective vaccine, help is also coming from an unexpected source. Researchers at the University of Pittsburgh Swanson School of Engineering’s Laboratory for advanced Materials (LAMP Lab) have created a textile coating that not only repels liquids such as blood and saliva, but can also prevent viruses from adhering to the surface of the fabric.

Under the leadership of Paul W. Leu, director of LAMP, and Anthony Galante, PhD student in industrial engineering and lead author of the study, the project initially began in the summer of 2019. The project began as a focus to create reusable textiles that are mechanically durable and resistant to various viruses, such as those that cause conjunctivitis and acute respiratory disease.

However, the researchers have pivoted their effort to work on SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19.

Galante led the experimental process of creating the virus-resistant textiles using a piece of nonwoven polypropylene microfiber cloth, which is the most common material used in medical PPE fabrics.

The cloth’s coating is created through a two-step process: 1) Using a drop casting method from a syringe to saturate the fabric, a layer of polytetrafluoroethylene nanoparticles is coated onto the exterior of the fabric; and 2) a heating treatment is used to fuse the nanoparticles to the cloth’s surface, which increases the stability of the

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do a similar study with the coronavirus, as we did with adenovirus, to test the ability to repel the coronavirus.”

The illustration shows the treated textile’s ability to repel fluids.

coating. The team believes that a spaying or dipping method could also be used for larger pieces of material or finished gowns.

As research progressed, the team noticed a major discrepancy in the outer layer of some viruses versus others. The adenoviruses they had been using to test the textile’s resistance are surrounded by a protein shell, while the SARS / CoV-2 have a lipid envelope around the shell. This envelope could potentially affect the binding property interaction with the textile.

“We have already demonstrated that the adenovirus is repelled by the textile coating,” explained Eric Romanowski, Research Director at Pitt’s Campbell Microbiology Laboratory. “What we don’t know is whether the envelope of the coronavirus will interact with the textile causing it to adhere. We are hopeful that the textile coating will repel the enveloped coronavirus similarly to the nonenveloped adenovirus. If it does not, we will

Project Testing The next step for the project will be to test the effectiveness against betacoronaviruses, like the one that causes COVID-19.

The team collaborated with researchers at the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center to test against adenoviruses, which are a common virus that is spread through respiratory droplets. Both treated and untreated textiles were submerged in a medium with the virus for 30 minutes. Any viruses that attached to the textiles were removed and quantified through plaque-forming assays.

To determine the virus-resistant properties of the textiles, a test was performed to count plaque-forming units (potent virus cells per unit of volume).

The testing also included multiple ultrasonic washes, which scour the fabric with an abrasive sponge. It was found that the coated fabric can withstand more than 100,000 cycles of scrubbing.

If the treated fabric is able to repel betacoronaviruses (SARS or COV-2), this could have a huge impact on the development of virus-repellent, reusable PPE and scrubs for healthcare workers, and even protective clothing for the general public. l

For more information, contact: For more information on University of Pittsburgh’s research on a “Textile Coating that Can Repel Viruses”, contact Paul W. Leu, professor of industrial engineering at the University of Pittsburgh’s Laboratory for Advanced Materials at pleu@pitt. edu; or Eric Romanowski, Campbell Lab Director, at romanowskieg@upmc.edu

Kathlyn Swantko, president of the FabricLink Network, created www.TheTechnicalCenter.com for Industry networking and marketing of specialty textiles, and www. fabricklink.com for consumer education involving everything fabric. Contact: kgswantko@fabriclink.com

July/August 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 33

OUT OF CONTEXT

Outdoor Bubble

By Kurt Gray JON IS THE MANAGER OF A FAMOUS mountain shop in southwest Colorado. He explained to me that with newly reduced hours and a limited number of customers allowed inside his shop at one time, the store was crushing previous sales records.

The small town Jon is in has been locked down, restaurants forced to serve locals and tourists outside, and all festivals, movies and live music have been canceled for the summer. Yet, sales soar.

Jon is not alone in this experience. Other mountaineering shops tell me the same story of unusually strong sales and an expanding clientele.

I work in the back of a kayak and surf shop fifty miles north of Jon. Business here has been crazy as well, with a lot of the incoming boats, SUPs and boards sold before they even come out of the box. The daily crush of customers includes the expected die-hard enthusiasts, a good number of newbies and interestingly, old grey haired funhogs showing off skills they picked up in the ’80s. After all, it makes sense that in these unsettled times what could be safer, or more private, than taking friends and family

34 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2020

out for a little time on the water?

What is interesting is that although the new clientele might be unaccustomed to an outdoor sport; they aren’t inexperienced at being a consumer. And unlike every customer in history before them, this new group is learning to buy all of their toys, clothes Customers and food without are not traditional indoor shopping, shopping. Safer they’re buying, inside has meant a say store massive movement owners. to Internet and the home delivery of all manner of consumer goods. Safer at the curb has translated into a click and carry out mindset, where we don’t have to go inside to make a selection. With all of the information, experiences and recommendations on the Internet, today’s web educated customers know not only what they want to do; they know what they want to buy.

A new outdoor community is coalescing around us and redefining the outdoor business in the process. Unable to socialize indoors, locked out of the gym and tired of

binge watching Netflix, an increasing number of people are turning to the outdoors, i.e. the natural world, as an inexpensive and convenient place to simply do something active and spend time together.

The change may be a bubble. Gas prices will eventually go up, bars and restaurants will reopen and people will smile at one another again on the street. Our new outdoorists might go back to living a life in captivity, returning to indoor work and indoor play.

Shopping could go back to being an activity, an end to itself.

COVID-19 will be remembered for many things. The contagion has changed our viewpoint regarding every aspect of living with ourselves and with one another. Perhaps the most sublime will be the realignment of personal values and prioritization of the outdoors, aka planet Earth. It’s about time. l Disclaimer: Mr. Gray wonders how people will eat outside this winter and predicts Target’s Christmas advertising will include insulated picnic outerwear. Textile Insight’s Publisher may not share in his opinions or frozen finger food.

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SAFE