Wyoming Magazine

COVER PHOTO BY KEATON EVANS

ONLY 32 LEFT

6 WYOMING’S NATIONAL FORESTS Claire Cella provides a glimpse into the “Other”

parks often overlooked by well-known National destinations.

14 THERE'S NO(LS) PLACE LIKE HOME An account of one Sheridan resident's NOLS

expedition through Patagonia, and the lessons he learned that have carried over into his personal, and professional, life.

20 RANCHING WITH INNOVATION

Deerwood Ranch has been breathing life back into the great American West through its success as a wild horse eco-sanctuary.

4

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

32 HOW THE TETONS GOT THEIR NAME 48 WHY THE PRONGHORN IS COOLER Will Craft offers some insight into one theory of

the origin of the name of some of Wyoming's most

THAN THE ANTELOPE

Because they're from Wyoming. Enough said.

iconic landmarks.

36 ERNEST HEMINGWAY'S LIFE IN WYOMING 59 WYOMING IN FILM A brief look into the iconic author's time spent

Wyoming has been the backdrop for a multitude of

in Wyoming, where he often found refuge from

Hollywood films—we've highlighted just five of those

metropolitan life at Spear-O-Wigwam Ranch in the

that have featured our great state.

Bighorn Mountains.

40 2017 WYOMING RESOLUTIONS

Wyoming Magazine's staff picks for a must-do list of places to see, people to meet, and events to attend in 2017.

64 BUFFALO BREWERY BRUSHES OFF CORPORATE HOODS

Bullies come in all sizes—but there's always strength in numbers, as one small town brewery discovered this past year.

PHOTO BY KEATON EVANS

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

5

WYOMING’S NATIONAL FORESTS Claire Cella provides a glimpse into the “Other” Parks often overlooked by well-known National destinations.

Photos by Claire Cella

6

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

THIS YEAR, Americans were especially enamored by the majesty and natural wonders of our nation’s 59 National Parks—this year was, after all, the National Park Service’s centennial celebration and the parks are pretty neat places to behold.

But scattered across the country are numerous other public lands that are often overlooked and underappreciated—most notably, our National Forests. (continued on next page)

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

7

PHOTO BY CLAIRE CELLA

W

yoming, in particular, is home to some of the country’s most spectacular and diverse forests that, once explored, offer outdoor enthusiasts a lot more than just a day’s wander through a gathering of tall trees.

What’s more is that because of the prominence we place on our National Parks, these mighty allotments of back country are largely untouched and un-toured in comparison.

So when and if you ever find yourself frustrated by tourists that seem to outnumber the trees, but you’re still seeking expansive views and outdoor escapades, here are some of our state’s finest options for your next rustic adventure.

1

IF YOU HAVE A BOAT: Ashley National Forest

This forest straddles northeastern Utah and southwestern Wyoming and is a prime example of the geological breadth of National Forests. In fact, upon first encounter, you’d probably never guess the acreage of this forest 8

that lies within Wyoming is a forest at all. That’s because this thin strip of land is composed of high desert cliffs, striated with kaleidoscopic layers of red Mesa Verde Sandstone and ochre Mancos Shale.

Firehole Canyon, a highlight of the region accented by chimneys and pinnacles of rock that rise up out of the blue-water, was named by John Wesley Powell, an explorer who thought the deep gorge was initially on fire. This area is home to the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area that follows the Green River and the Flaming Gorge Reservoir—a snaking corridor of over 91 water-miles and 360 miles of shoreline. It is known for world-class fishing, where anglers can catch trout year round. You can launch your boat at a number of accessible boat ramps and

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

go for a swim at Firehole Canyon (one of three swimming beaches), which remains cool even under summer’s sizzling sun.

While the amenities in the region are plentiful, the true amenity is the water, where swimming, water skiing, jet skiing, boating, river rafting and fishing await.

2

IF YOU WANT TO HIKE IN SOLITUDE: Bighorn National Forest

Sister to the Rockies, the Bighorn Mountains stretch along north-central Wyoming, about halfway between the popular destinations of Mt. Rushmore and Yellowstone National Park. Despite that, the forest remains relatively quiet for such a diverse stretch of exceptional landscape.

The Bighorns encompass everything from lush grasslands to alpine meadows, from crystal-clear lakes to glacially-carved valleys, from rolling hills to sheer mountain walls. As such, there’s plenty to take advantage of here, especially if you’re a hiker. There’s over 1,200 miles of trails, and the Cloud Peak Wilderness in the southern region of the forest, is a hiker and backpackers sanctuary. Not only does it boast the range’s namesake and highest peak, Cloud Peak (at 13,167 feet), and last remaining glacier in the area, it’s also filled with other summits surpassing 12,000 feet.

In addition to attempts to summit the daunting height of Cloud Peak, there’s another popular 42-mile loop that starts at Hunter Trailhead and showcases the region’s beauty, taking in Angeline Pass, Mirror Lake, Lost Twin Lakes, Florence Pass and Soldier Park.

Some other highlights of the forest include Bucking Mule Falls, Medicine Wheel and Shell Canyon.

3

IF YOU WANT TO RIDE OFF-ROAD: Black Hills National Forest Only about one-seventh of this forest lies within Wyoming (the rest is in South Dakota), but this northern Wyoming slice of land includes the Bear Lodge Mountains—a haven for motorized trail recreation.

ABOVE: If it’s solitude you’re craving with

In this area, 170,000 acres offer over 5,000 miles of roadways and trails with breathtaking views of rugged rock and open grassland for any type of ride—mountain bike, ATV, horseback or snowmobile.

snowmobile trails on the Wyoming side that wind through stands of pine, aspen and oak and that deep, deep snow we Wyomingites know.

If you’re up for a day long excursion, you can ride into South Dakota too, taking advantage of the entire Black Hills National Forest Motorized Trail System, that gives access to another 3,600 miles of road and over 600 miles of trails for riders.

The same holds true in this neck of the woods during the winter, meaning you don’t ever have to put your toys away— there’s over 50 miles of maintained

your forest travels, Cloud Peak Wilderness is just one of many destinations that remain relatively quiet in the Bighorn National Forest, despite being along the route to both Mount Rushmore and Yellowstone National Park.

4

IF YOU WANT TO AVOID PEOPLE: Bridger-Teton National Forest

Of course, most people are familiar with Yellowstone and Grand Teton, but what they don’t often realize is that the bordering Bridger-Teton National Forest boasts equally impressive peaks (over 40 rise about 12,000 feet) and geological sights (the Gros Venture landslide is one of the largest visible in the world), both un-obscured from selfie sticks and unobstructed by tour buses and bison herds.

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

9

The forest also encompasses three wildernesses: Gros Ventre, Bridger and Teton, totaling 1.2 million acres of unsullied wild land that shares the same ecology and ecosystem as America’s favorite park. The rocky mountain spires rise like needles from the landscape and hold seven of the largest glaciers in the contiguous United States. There are over 2,000 miles of trail that lead from the churning rapids of the Snake River to expansive green valleys, snowbound but surmountable summits and gorgeous glacial cirques. And if you really, really must go, it is possible to hike on through to Yellowstone. It’s easy to see why this forest was at one point called the Wyoming National Forest. It has it all. Just don’t tell anyone else.

5

IF YOU WANT TO EXPLORE HIGH CAVES TO ESCAPE THE GRIZZLIES: Caribou-Targhee National Forest

The Caribou and Targhee National Forests are two forests in one and are yet another example of National Forests that cross state lines in this region of the country.

Caribou National Forest is located in western Wyoming, southeastern Idaho and northern Utah, while Targhee National Forest, the larger of the two, dips into both eastern Idaho and northwestern Wyoming.

PHOTO BY CLAIRE CELLA 10 WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

LEFT: Located in Medicine Bow National Forest, Vedauwoo Recreation Area offers climbers a vast paradise of over 800 grueling routes, and non-climbers miles of hiking trails to explore these “earthborn” formations.

Two designated wilderness areas also call this region home. The Jedediah Smith Wilderness, adjacent to Grand Teton, is renowned for karst limestone formations dotted with secluded cave outcroppings and lined with stark canyon faces. The best known are the Darby Wind Cave and the Darby Canyon Ice Cave in the heart of this wilderness that lead hikers past intermittent splashes of waterfalls and into a thick and dark layer of dolomite that dates back 350 million years.

The other wilderness, Winegar Hole, borders Yellowstone, and was set aside primarily to protect prime grizzly bear habitat. Two trails in this section access the high altitude and breathtaking Alaska Basin and lead into Grand Teton. If you’re going to explore this forest, bring a flashlight and plenty of bear spray.

6

IF YOU WANT TO CLIMB ROCKS:

skilled climbers from around the world

Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest

some of the country’s most grueling,

Medicine Bow—Routt National Forest covers over a million acres in southeastern Wyoming and was named after ancient Native American powwows.

The Native American tribes would gather here to practice sacred medicine and search through the forest for mahogany to make their bows.

stiff and punishing routes. There are now about 800 routes in Vedauwoo, with established bolted slabs, plenty of crimpy faces, more traditional climbs up to three pitches, and some significant boulders.

Some well known areas/routes include the Coke Bottle, the Fall Wall, the

The area still retains its sanctity, although for a different reason: today, the forest is worshiped by rock climbers who come in pursuit of crack climbing (also known as offwidths).

And this area delivers, particularly in Vedauwoo.

Nautilus, Holdout, Master Blaster

In the Arapahoe language, Vedawoo means “earthborn,” probably referring to the dramatic, rounded domes of pink Sherman granite, dotted with sharp slices of feldspar crystals, that offer

those with no desire to crack climb

and Hideaway Chimney. Unlike the patience and endurance required of other more traditional climbing, it’s said that determination and a high pain tolerance are what you need to conquer the Vedauwoos. While can still enjoy themselves here, they’ll be happy to know there’s also multi-pitch accents further north in the Snowy Range of this forest.

Forests, Parks, & Wildernesses—Oh, My! HOW NATIONAL FORESTS DIFFER FROM OUR NATIONAL PARKS In 1891, the Forest Reserve Act established the existence of National Forests and gave the President of the United States the ability to reserve swaths of forest for conservation and protection. The first, as mentioned above, was the Shoshone National Forest in Wyoming. The U.S. Forest Service, as an agency of the Department of Agriculture, was created in 1905 as the governing body that regulates and manages the nation’s 154 forests, in addition to 20 national grasslands that total 193 million acres.

The biggest difference between National Parks and National Forests —a common question—is their use.

While National Parks are created for strict preservation purposes, National Forests are managed for many other purposes, including timber logging, outdoor recreation, livestock grazing, wildlife hunting and fishing, among others. They are nurtured for their productive potential and their natural diversity, and are recognized for their ability to “provide the greatest amount of good for the greatest amount of people in the long run,” as stated by the first Chief of the Forest Service, Gifford Pinchot. National Parks, however, aim to defend and protect their land, leaving as much of the natural and cultural resources within their borders unimpaired.

The Forests, in other words, are the more functional companions to the guarded majesty of the Parks.

The National Wilderness Preservation System, created in 1964, allows additional areas within both parks and forests to be further protected by prohibiting roads, structures and motorized vehicles within them.

That means: peace and quiet. The only honking you’ll encounter is that of a flock of migratory geese or the thundering echo that of a moving herd of elk. It also means you’ll be forced to tread lightly, on your own two feet, and hopefully go unnoticed, leaving no trace you were even there.

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017 11

7

IF YOU WANT TO BAG THE HIGHEST PEAK IN WYOMING: Shoshone National Forest

Not only does Wyoming have the first National Park, but the state is also home to the first federally protected National Forest: the Shoshone. This forest covers nearly 2,500,000 acres and was created by an act of Congress and signed into law in 1891. Having never been heavily settled or exploited, the forest has retained most of its rather intimidating rugged wildness.

To give you an example, of the 25 percent of the land above timberline in this forest, 13 percent is classified as either barren, rock or ice. Four regions of wilderness have also been designated within the forest, including the North Absaroka, Washakie, Fitzpatrick and Popo Agie Wildernesses.

The Absaroka and Beartooth Mountains are partly in the northern section of the forest, and the Wind River Range is in the south, containing

Gannett Peak—the tallest mountain in Wyoming and the apex of the Central Rockies. The mountain is so massive that its slopes actually extend into the Bridger-Teton National Forest as well The 896-acre Gannett Glacier, likely the largest single glacier in the American Rockies, also flows down from the northern slopes of the mountain.

The peak is commonly climbed on a four- to six-day, 40-mile round-trip ascent and is considered by many to be one of the most difficult mountains to summits in the country.

until 2007. It is one of over a dozen of designated Urban National Forests, meaning it is within an hour’s driving distance of a million or more people.

The resources thus available to this forest abound and are sure to please anyone: from the skier to the hiker to the mountain biker, to the picnicker, to the angler, to the horseback rider.

Even though you’ll be venturing into the wilderness, it’s comforting to know you won’t be too far removed from food, shelter or earshot.

8

IF YOU WANT THE COMFORTS OF CIVILIZATION WITHIN SIGHT: Wasatch-Cache National Forest

Although located primarily in northern Utah, this forest has a tiny sliver in southwestern Wyoming.

To give you an idea of how close this forest is to concrete and skyscrapers, the forests headquarters used to be located in downtown Salt Lake City

PHOTO BY CLAIRE CELLA

12 WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

BELOW: The Jedediah Smith Wilderness, in Caribou-Targhee National Forest, boasts secluded cave outcroppings and miles of trails dotted with intermittent waterfalls and impressive limestone formations.

DOCUMENT SETUP 83/8X107/8 with a 1/4in. margin

GREY SHADED AREA = LIVE IMAGE AREA All text and images that do not trim must be contained within the grey area

THE BLUE GUIDES=THE TRIM The final trim is 83/8x107/8

THE MAGENTA SHADED AREA = BLEED All images and background color that bleeds must be extended 1/4in. beyond margin to reach red dotted lines

1/4 inch Margin

1/4 inch Margin

1/4 inch Margin

Written by Molly Michieli with contributions from Brett Riley

Three students from Riley’s NOLS group, “Santa Maria,” nearing the end of their ISGT (Independent Student Group Travel) "final”, during which they are without the guidance and expertise of their instructors for ten days.

14 WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

L

iving in Wyoming, a great respect and passion for the elements comes naturally.

So what better place on earth to call home for NOLS, the National Outdoor Leadership School than the city of Lander, Wyoming?

That respect and wonder for the wilderness is said to mature through completion of a NOLS course; as Sheridan, Wyoming’s Brett Riley found out in the fall of 2009. While NOLS is headquartered in Lander, Wyoming, the programs offered and skills taught extend worldwide.

For Riley, upon seeing NOLS advertised on Facebook, he grew curious about the organization.

Then after hearing it be praised by fellow classmates at Baylor University, he decided to visit the headquarters in Wyoming and eventually made the choice to sign up for a Patagonian expedition. Love it or hate it, either way Riley knew he would come out with a better understanding of the outdoors, and gather valuable lessons not taught anywhere else. Loved it, he did!

What he went on to learn in his 82-day course through Patagonia, Chile, has impacted both his personal and professional life; as well as provided him with some incredible stories to tell.

On a stormy mountain deeply covered in snow one morning, Riley awoke for his 2am shift to shovel snow from around his group’s tent. This was a necessary task to keep from being buried by the forceful storm. Looking out, all he could see was a black sky and the five headlamps of the other (not so) lucky classmates with the 2am snow removal shift. In the darkness, seeing those headlamps and knowing this task was one required for their survival, was a moment Brett recalls as “surreal.”

ABOVE: Missouri native (turned Sheridan resident) Brett Riley completed an 82day NOLS course through Patagonia in the fall of 2009. Much of what he learned throughout the course has translated into both his personal and professional life.

The surprise blizzard caused Riley’s group to miss exploring part of the mountain, glaciers, and much of the beauty surrounding them. The group was stuck in the

Students dig snow from around the group’s tents to build walls—sheltering them from an unforgiving blizzard. Riley recalls the moment of realization when he knew that what they were doing was truly a means for survival, and the experience was “nothing short of surreal”.

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

15

brutal conditions for a full five days.

However, as Riley tells of his “aha” moment, it’s clear the group was able to find the beauty after all, during the unforgettable experience.

Upon coming home, one would expect a bit of culture shock. Yet for Riley, the biggest shocks came during his time in Patagonia. Looking into a mirror for the first time in three weeks during a thirty-day sea kayaking excursion, was the ultimate form of self-reflection. The group’s goal had been to make it to the open waters of the Pacific Ocean, and they stopped off at an outpost ran by the Chilean

Navy. Once there, Riley passed a mirror and remembers how “nasty” his beard had gotten. That nasty beard, that grit, however; spoke volumes for his hard work, dedication, and perseverance that got him to that island.

Small things taken for granted every day, like soda, ice cream, full meals, became rewards after completion of a mission. Having rain, sleet, or hail, twenty-four out of the thirty days, of course there are now the bigger things too that Riley will certainly never take for granted again.

Warmth. Dry clothes. Sunny days.

A traditional Chilean goucho loads up his horses to assist with hundreds of pounds of food and supplies for the NOLS students during the first week of the 30-day expedition.

16 WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

From having to scout out alternative routes after taking a turn off-course, to helping a group of classmates whose tent had ripped and began to collapse on the mountain where he had 2am snow removal duty, “what you learn at NOLS, in the wilderness, can translate into the working world,” says Riley.

As Director of Fulfillment for Flood Marketing, Riley oversees dozens of social media campaigns, and the creative that goes into each. With success as the main goal, Riley brings his expertise in strategy and direction to the team and accounts he manages.

As all NOLS graduates do, Riley learned a great deal, specifically as an LOD, Leader of the Day. Leadership is a key point for all courses, and students are trained and encouraged to continue educating and leading others well beyond their time with NOLS. The night before it was Riley’s turn to become the Leader of the Day, he and the other LODs got together with instructors to plan out the route, description, and contingency plans for the day to come. This process is also known as “RAD.” Being a LOD is essentially an exam to see how one performs in a leadership role. Within this role, being a LOD is an opportunity to learn how to support and guide others through tough terrain, dangerous situations, and in turn strengthen their own leadership skills. After mapping out trails on land and water, the LOD heads the course into the wilderness.

“You have others’ lives in your hands,” says Riley; which makes those tense moments all the more stressful. That tension and how the LOD handles it in each obstacle that comes their way, is what makes the difference between succeeding or failing the exam.

Another point in Riley’s NOLS course that helped to develop him as a leader, was the ISGT. Independent Student Group Travel. In this ten-day excursion, a small group sets out sans instructor. In the final few days, leaders are chosen to help the group complete their mission. Riley was proud to have been chosen to co-lead his ISGT group.

While following a river as their point of direction, the group decided to stay east because of a few blank spots on the map. Unfortunately they later found they should have been following along

the west side of the river. The group

ABOVE: Students and instructors scout a

ended up getting cliffed out, and the

hanging glacier and lake, used to help complete

river was far too dangerous to cross.

glacier travel and avalanche path training.

to run out of food, the group was facing

and resolve, they crossed the bridge and never looked back.

challenges left and right. Riley and his co-leader spent an entire morning scouting alternate routes and just when they thought they would end up being about two days late to return to the course, the group came across a rock bridge that went 75 feet above the river. With gut, determination,

The group ended up being twelve hours late to return to the rest of the class. Considering they had thought it could have been 48 hours, it was a proud moment knowing they had made it back much quicker than they had expected, and (of course) safely. Upon their return, a debrief

Already a day behind, and starting

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017 17

Up for the challenge? To learn more about NOLS, and experience what graduates like Brett Riley will remember for a lifetime, see their website and course details at www.NOLS.edu. was held to find out where the group had gone wrong and for Riley this “was a huge learning lesson.”

There is no doubt that the memories of Brett’s time in the NOLS course and what each day of it taught him, will be carried along with him in his day to day life for years to come. Since completing his NOLS course, Riley has gone on to lead backpacking trips and explore the wilderness of Wyoming, Colorado, and Arkansas, among many other unforgettable places.

NOLS helps students to see the importance of respecting wildlife, wilderness, people, and life of all forms. In business, everyday life, and adventure. Through Riley’s NOLS education, he became incredibly aware of his footprint and the impact each of us has on the earth.

Camping, hiking, climbing, things we Wyomingites do every day, have an effect on this planet. NOLS shows students how to lessen that impact and leave no trace. As a proud alum, Riley will take these lessons with him on all adventures to come!

Those lessons and getting to see some of the earth’s most beautiful 18

places aren’t the only benefits of completing a NOLS course.

Alumni have access to an extensive jobs network to help them carry out a prosperous career, and countless discounts on high end outdoor gear, lodging, and more.

The programs offered by NOLS are not only for outdoor enthusiasts, and those familiar with the wilderness; they are for everyone.

NOLS was founded in 1965 by Paul Petzoldt. Their first location was a small cabin in Sinks Canyon, Wyoming. Today, Lander, Wyoming has been chosen as the international headquarters for the nonprofit organization, mainly due to the proximity of the Wind River Range.

It’s easy to see at a glance that Lander offers numerous outdoor recreational activities and challenges while being surrounded by breathtaking scenic views. All of Wyoming really is nature’s perfect classroom for the skills NOLS strives to instill in each student. Riley certainly knows this as he says, after living in Wyoming, “there is no other place” he could see himself. Beyond Wyoming, courses are offered from

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

TOP: The “Santa Marias” prepare to cross the two-mile expanse of Messier Channel early into the sea kayak expedition.

Patagonia to Italy, from India to New Zealand, and just about everywhere in between. Those thinking of signing up can search by skills taught and/or location of the course.

Financial aid and scholarship opportunities are available through NOLS, to make the dreams of those who dare a reality. For teens and adults, NOLS is creating and inspiring new leaders every day, beginning at age 14. Whether one seeks to strengthen skills in the workplace or wilderness, or just grow as a person in general NOLS caters to all who are eager to learn and explore.

With 21 expedition courses, 25 custom education courses, risk management services, and wilderness medicine courses offered just here in Wyoming, there’s no slowing down for NOLS. Now with a fresh rebrand, and incredible growth and interest in the program, 2017 looks to be another successful year of accomplishments worldwide for the organization.

PUSH THE LIMITS, HAVE FUN MAKE A SCENE, DON’T SKIP LIFE

AND NEVER SETTLE. #GOFASTDONTDIE @gofastdontdie facebook.com/gofastdontdie GoFastDontDie.com

N

estled at the base of the Snowy Mountain Range, lies 4,360 acres of pure Wyoming paradise. Frozen in a time when horses ran wild, land was untouched, and nature was allowed to take its course, Deerwood Ranch

has been breathing life back into the great American West through the ranch’s success as a wild horse eco-sanctuary. BY MOLLY MICHIELI PHOTOS BY JANA WILSON

20 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

O

nce a stop along the Wyoming Colorado Railroad, and later on, a fox farm, Deerwood Ranch had seen more than its fair share of property owners throughout the years.

Then along came Jim and Carla Cole. In 1982, Jim and Carla went searching for a

piece of property to enjoy retirement on. Having grown up in Wyoming, and with a daughter in college at Laramie, Jim Cole knew right where he wanted to be. The family packed up, left Omaha, Nebraska, and purchased Deerwood Ranch. It has been in the family ever since.

In 1987, the Cole’s daughter, Jana Wilson and her husband, Rich, began leasing the land from her parents and helping work to maintain the property.

Currently, four generations of the Cole family live on the acreage. For Jana and Rich, choosing to stay and raise their family here was a no-brainer. With the small population, “we are spoiled and the climate is wonderful,” says Jana.

Each day they get to enjoy all that the mountains have to offer, and they “feel very blessed” at the spot they’re in.

PHOTO BY JANA WILSON

Living in such paradise doesn’t exactly come easy, however. Working a ranch is exactly that, work. Ranching is an expensive endeavor and does not come with cushy benefits like retirement, health care, and paid time off. Each day the Wilsons are not only working the ranch to earn a living, but to keep up and pass down the family legacy. After the Wilsons took over the bulk of the maintenance, they tried their hand at a few different options for turning a revenue. They began growing their own hay, and in the summers allowed cattle to come onto their land to graze. They also sold the hay for use off of their property.

LEFT: Some of the 300 equine residents at Deerwood Station, which provides 4,360 acres of eco-sanctuary—one of just three certified by the BLM in the entire United States.

While this option did bring at least some money in, it was seasonal and inconsistent at best. Rich began his own snow blowing business for the winters, in order to make sure the family had a year-round income they could count on.

As the years went on though, the Wilsons kept searching for a way to ensure Deerwood Ranch was useful to them and to the ever-growing Wyoming economy. This is what drove Jana and her husband to get creative.

They began thinking of innovative ways to work their ranch while at the same time finding new ways to make it work for them as well.

Knowing how much all four generations loved living in the wide open space of Deerwood Ranch, they

TOP: “Deerwood Station” cabin has been open since 2010, and has become a sought after vacation destination for visitors near and far.

thought of a creative way to offer this experience to others. In 2010, The Wilsons decided to open a cabin on their property, offering a serene escape for tourists. With endless recreation nearby in Centennial and Laramie, including world famous snowmobiling, and with easy access to the interstate, the Deerwood Station guest house has quickly become a hot spot for Wyoming tourism. Travelers going to and from Yellowstone, Jackson, Cheyenne Frontier Days, all the way to Europe, come to stay. Named after the origin of the land as being a stop along the railroad, Deerwood Station sleeps up to seven people, and is surrounded by views you don’t get to see anywhere else. Folks worldwide have certainly

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

21

To maintain healthy herd sizes, the Bureau of Land Management has to rountinely remove a number of horses from wild herds, and while some are taken to facilities where they later have an opportunity for adoption, the future of others is uncertain once they’re considered unadoptable.

PHOTO BY JANA WILSON

22 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

23

24 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

taken an interest in Deerwood Station, with the cabin being pretty much booked solid year round. They see the largest numbers of tourists coming through during peak season, which is May through October.

While the cabin helps to draw tourists in and boost Wyoming’s economic development, it’s the wildlife on Deerwood Ranch that really gets people’s attention and drives revenue. After raising cattle for many years, the Wilsons knew that their property was the perfect home for wildlife.

Then a newspaper article in 2010 really got the Wilsons’ wheels turning. The Bureau of Land Management was seeking private land to house wild horses. Wyoming alone has sixteen herd management operations, and here the horses only multiply. With so many excess horses the BLM has to go in and remove them from the herd management. Some are sent to prison facilities where they are trained, broken, and set up for adoption. However, many of these horses are deemed not adoptable for a multitude of reasons.

These animals are what had the BLM seeking private land. But it couldn’t be just any private land. There had to be live running water in every pasture available to the horses, plenty of shelter, and rocky areas for the horses to naturally maintain their hooves; among many other criteria. After mountains of paperwork, over two years of waiting, and having their land surveyed, the Wilsons sold their cattle and partnered with the BLM. Three hundred mustangs were brought to live and run wild at Deerwood Ranch in October of 2012.

The transition from cattle to horses was a fairly tedious change. Woven-wire wildlife friendly fencing had to be installed, along with solar gates. Handling horses is much different than handling cattle, so of course the Wilsons had to get used to a few new adjustments. It also took a great deal of time for the horses to gain trust in the family. “Some still take off running when eye contact is made,” says Jana. For the most part though, they’ve all calmed down and are very grateful for the freedom, hay, and care the Wilsons provide.

LEFT: After a two year process, including extensive land surveys and paperwork, the Wilsons sold their cattle and partnered with BLM to become the first certified ecosanctuary in the United States.

PHOTO BY JANA WILSON WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

25

Deerwood Ranch became the very first BLM certified eco-sanctuary in the United States in 2012. Now over five years later, there are still only three nationwide. One is close by in Lander, Wyoming and the second in Oklahoma. Due to the rarity of eco-sanctuaries, the unmatched scenery, and exposure to wildlife, thousands of people come all year long to tour Deerwood Ranch. These tours, given by the Wilsons themselves, help to boost the economy, and raise awareness for the current issues with over 45,000 horses needing homes in this country.

Housing wild horses is a year-round operation for the family, and an innovative way to make great use of their land.

Since becoming an eco-sanctuary and opening the cabin at Deerwood Station, the Wilsons have put in restrooms and a gift shop on the property. The private cabin can be rented for just $200 per night, plus $20 for each additional person, and the tours run $40 for adults and $20 for children. Though the memories taken away from getting up close and personal with wild horses, and being surrounded by the beauty of Wyoming, is priceless.

The money raised through tours benefits the care and

help feed the horses, enjoy a picnic, tour the barn, and get a

With the horses and cabin, the ranching business is going well for the Wilsons, and there is no doubt they will continue to “get creative” and think of new innovative ways to ensure the ranch is kept up and kept in the family. The Wilsons and the Coles told us they “Have seen a little bit of everything over the thirty-four years that we have lived here.

The Deerwood wasn’t the best place for a cow/calf operation but it is absolutely the best place to live, raise a family, and have wild horses grazing the land.” Jana says that her chil-

firsthand education on the importance of protecting wildlife.

dren and grandchildren feel lucky to have grown up on such a

well-being of the horses, and the liability insurance and ATVs necessary for tourists who want to explore the area. For large groups, the Wilsons also offer hayrides for 20-25 people.

Photographers, horse enthusiasts, school groups, and every day people come to take in the natural beauty of the land and the magnificent mustangs who occupy it. School groups can

Deerwood Ranch is a year-round destination for visitors near and far, and tours given by the Wilsons help boost the local economy, as well as raise awareness for the 45,000 horses needing homes in the United States..

PHOTO BY JANA WILSON

26 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

limitless piece of land and having the rare opportunities that only living on a ranch provides. With the tours and cabin upkeep, the whole family helps out to give all those who visit Deerwood Ranch a unique and unforgettable Wyoming experience.

To add to the incredible retreat Deerwood Ranch provides, just 20 minutes up the road is the town of Centennial, Wyoming; with countless things to do, fantastic places to eat, and new ways of enjoying the arts.

Whether one is just passing through, or looking for an extended getaway from the rest of the world, Deerwood Ranch is a must-see.

To book your stay, a tour, and learn more about Deerwood Ranch, please visit www.deerwoodranchwildhorseecosanctuary.com and www.deerwoodstation.net.

PHOTO BY JANA WILSON

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

27

28 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

PHOTO BY JANA WILSON WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

29

PHOTOS BY BRETT RILEY

32 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

W

estern Wyoming is well known for quite a number of different things, including Yellowstone National Park, the Wyoming/ Idaho border, and the Teton Mountain range. The Teton Range of Grand Teton National Park of Teton County, Wyoming, is famous for its many picturesque peaks and beautiful scenery. The Teton mountain range has been around for quite some time (some estimate as long as 10 million years), and the mountain range was pushed up over time as Jackson Hole sunk, due to earthquakes along the Teton fault—which runs along the eastern range of the mountains. However, the French Trappers who discovered the string of big ol’ hills on the west side of Wyoming were primarily interested in the big three: Grand Teton, coming in at an altitude of 13,775 feet, Middle Teton at an altitude of 12,804 feet, and South Teton, which measures at an altitude of 12,514 feet.

While the Shoshone people, who are believed to have lived in and around the range for as long as 10,000 years called the range “Teewinot,” which translates to “many pinnacles,” it’s believed by some that the voyagers native to France who stumbled upon our modern ski-tropolis saw something else when they discovered

the range. “Les trois tétons” became the name for the mountains, and it stuck. Some people argue that the Grand Tetons were named for the Teton Sioux Native Americans who lived in the area, and that’s a perfectly reasonable explanation for how they got their name, however, it’s not the funniest. What everyone may not realize is that “les trois tétons” translates from French to “the three teats” which leads us to the other possible story for how the Tetons got their name.

What everyone may not realize is that “les trois tétons” translates from French to “the three teats”.

The story goes like this: A group of French explorers came across the mountain range one day while trudging across the frozen tundra of western Wyoming.

Naturally, they were experiencing quite the opposite of what life in France would have been like for them at the time, and found themselves suffering a great deal in their efforts to explore the new world for previously untapped resources, possibilities, and opportunities.

As they lurched across the wilderness day after day, covered in heavy furs and carrying heavy sacks full of provisions, with no place to lay their heads at

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

33

night except the cold hard ground and no shelter except for their tents, they no doubt were thinking about the various comforts that they used to enjoy back home.

Comforts such as warm homes, filling and enjoyable meals, and the company of a beautiful woman had eluded them for a long time, and no doubt they were thinking quite a lot about those comforts and how much they missed them. So, when the mountain peaks that are now called the Tetons came into view, it’s only natural that their first thought was breasts. Thus the Tetons were christened by grizzled, worn out explorers from France whose first thought upon seeing the majesty of that beautiful mountain range was “Boobs!” The Grand Teton is the tallest of the three peaks and its name is literally translated from French to “the big tit.” Given this translation, one would conclude that the Grand Teton is the D cup of the formation, while the Middle Teton and the South Teton are the C cups. The French explorers who found the Teton mountain range have done a huge favor to and provided an easy joke to middle school boys all across Wyoming.

Today, the Teton range has come to offer far more than a crazy day dream to freezing woodsmen explorers or a cheap laugh to middle school boys. With an enormous skiing and snowboarding community in the winter, and opportunities to get into essentially every other outdoor activity in the warmer months when weather permits, the Teton range is one of Wyoming’s biggest tourist attractions. Jackson Hole and the surrounding area is one of the more gorgeous places around these parts, though we’re not at all lacking in natural beauty anywhere in Wyoming.

Coming in at just over 10,000 people, Jackson isn’t the most populated town in Wyoming, but the number of tourists who frequent the area during ski season make downtown Cheyenne during Frontier Days look like anywhere else in Wyoming during Frontier Days. With multiple mountain resorts and ski slopes, the western edge of our neck of the woods is an incredible international destination for winter sports enthusiasts. So, if you’re looking to shred some gnar pow, take a scenic hike, or just enjoy the busty skyline, Teton County is the place for you.

34

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

fishing, drinking, and writing

america’s great literature:

ERNEST HEMINGWAY’S

LIFE IN WYOMING

I

n Ernest Hemingway’s well-received short story, “The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber,” the legendary American author writes of hunting big game in Africa with the prose and confidence which

can only be born from significant experience both as a hunter and as an author. When he wasn’t stalking lions, antelope, and other big game across the African plains, drinking scotch in the South of France, practicing his boxing, or relaxing at Finca Vigía in Cuba, Hemingway found refuge from the busy pace of metropolitan and international life in a cozy cabin at SpearO-Wigwam in the Bighorn Mountains, and is rumored to have frequented watering holes such as the Mint Bar in Sheridan and the Last Chance Saloon in Big Horn, rumors that would be quite fitting and carry significant weight given his incredible (and at times incredibly destructive) affinity for alcohol.

BY R. CAMPBELL SPROUL

36 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

H

emingway once said “The only time it (liquor) isn’t good for you is when you’re writing or fighting.” With his larger than life personality, it may come as a great surprise to some that Hemingway would actively seek out the calmness and serenity of Wyoming on such a regular basis, but were a man to live as intense and busy of a life as he did (one featuring consistent heavy drinking, four different wives, and, for much of his later life, chronic and debilitating physical and mental illness piled on top of the astronomical amount he accomplished as an author), the quiet and peaceful vistas of Wyoming make a great deal of sense as a place to get away from it all. After all, even the real life most interesting man in the world needs a break from it all now and again.

Hemingway is also known to have said “There are two places I love: Africa and Wyoming.” Following the success of his widely renowned modernist novel The Sun Also Rises, Ernest stole away to his home in the woods near Park Reservoir and began to write a first draft for the quintessential World War One chronicle: A Farewell to Arms. While many of his novels are set beyond the shores of the United States, Hemingway drew a great deal of inspiration from the purity and beauty of Wyoming’s nature and the rustic simplicity of its quiet and steady lifestyle, which allowed him to write in a more peaceful and calm place than many of his other regular haunts. Hemingway is well known for his great love of the outdoors, and what better place to experience the great wide open than Wyoming?

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

37

He often fished for trout in the Bighorns, and he once said to a friend that the best fishing in the world could be found in the Clark’s Fork branch of the Yellowstone River. He also kept a journal of his fishing exploits while in Wyoming, wherein he wrote: “1st day — worked four pages, fished with Bill Horne caught 12 2nd day — worked 4 1/2 pages,

Unfortunately, though unsurprisingly, even Wyoming’s beauty and the serenity of the area was not enough to save him from his internal and external troubles, as Hemingway tried to commit suicide by walking into the spinning propeller of a plane in Casper, Wyoming one day while his plane was down temporarily for repairs. Thankfully several men saw him approaching the plane and were able to stop him

fished with two girls caught 2 3rd day — worked zero, fished by self alone, caught 30-limit.”* Not only did Hemingway greatly enjoy spending time in Wyoming, but he even set one of his (only slightly) lesser known short stories in Wyoming. Entitled Wine In Wyoming, the story follows a French immigrant couple who move to Wyoming in their later years, and the cultural clashes that they experience with the locals who view them as elitist or snobby. The story tracks incredibly well with the differences between French and American cultures and politics, and is one of Hemingway’s most enjoyable short stories, which is really saying something significant.

The often troubled novelist split his time between enjoying the splendor of the outdoors and plugging away at any one of his many literary triumphs (he worked for hours each day and went through an average of seven pencils per day while writing), living deep and sucking up the marrow of life as an artist in the spirit of fellow nature lover Henry David Thoreau.

and he was immediately sent to seek both physiological and psychiatric treatment at the Mayo Clinic in Minnesota where he was reportedly treated for hypertension and hepatitis.

Unfortunately in the end that treatment and other treatments he was rumored to have received were not enough as Hemingway ultimately took his own life with a double-barreled 12 gauge shotgun in the foyer of his home in Ketchum, Idaho at 7:30 A.M. on July 2nd, 1961. In order to secure

38 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

him a Christian burial, the official story at the time was that the gun had gone off accidentally as Hemingway was cleaning it, but later analysis of the incident as well as Hemingway’s difficult circumstances suggest that it was in fact a suicide rather than a mere accident.

Although at many times he was a deeply troubled man, his brilliance and deep and profound impact on modern American literature are undeniable, in fact there are few American authors who can claim a more prolific career (with the exception, perhaps, of Edgar Allan Poe). His passionate but simple writing style has been imitated by many since his time, but mastered only by the man himself. The literary soldier found new life and eloquent breath in the pages of Hemingway’s harrowing works, and many subsequent fictional servicemen owe their lives to Ernest Hemingway.

Hemingway’s love for the state of Wyoming along with his prolific history as an author while in the Equality State was incredible. Wyoming might not be the first place people think of when they think of Ernest Hemingway and his amazing contributions to modern literature, but it is clear that this incredibly talented but painfully troubled artist had a deep passion for the beauty of nature he experienced here in Wyoming and that he used that passion to drive the production of some of his greatest works. *Taken from Carlos Baker’s Ernest Hemingway Selected Letters 1917-1961.

It’s a new year, a new start, and a new chance to explore the farther corners of this great square state. Whether you’re a Wyoming native, a visitor making your yearly migration back to our glorious homeland, or a first-timer (hello, there!) who may not know in which direction to begin your western adventure—have we got some places to see and things to do! Here’s our staff-picked featured list of places, faces, and “Wyoming Resolutions” to supplement your 2017 plans.

WRITTEN BY BRADY MCLEAN with Staff Contributions

40 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

2

GRAND TETONS If you’ve not ever been to Jackson Hole, it’s time for a trip. Grand Teton National Park is just north of Jackson, and will

absolutely take your breath away, and do so well before you get close to the mountain tops of the 12,000+ foot peaks of the range. Incredible wildlife, amazing lakes, gorgeous terrain and hundreds of miles of trails filled with views and scenery guaranteed to up your Instagram game. (Tag us, @ WyomingMagazine, we might just share your shot).

Be sure to ride bikes, paddle canoes, visit Jenny Lake, Mormon Row, and Inspiration Point. Another must-do is to float the Snake River. The fly fishing is out of this world, definitely add that to your list of things to do! Did we mention horseback riding? Who are we kidding… just visit the park, give yourself plenty of time and take it all in, anytime of year. You’ll be glad you did.

1

YELLOWSTONE Ahhhh, Yellowstone.

We’re kicking this list off with perhaps the most obvious choice, but after hearing how many Wyoming

Folks haven’t been to Yellowstone, we think it’s well placed.

Yellowstone National Park is a densely-packed experience of mountains, forestry, wildlife, lakes and geysers so hot they’ll make #4 on this list seem like ice-baths. (You looked at number four on this list just now, didn’t you? That’s okay, skip around at will, you’re free to do so, this is Wyoming.)

Back to Yellowstone, despite what our neighbors to the north like to pretend, Yellowstone is located MOSTLY in Wyoming and you really don’t have to leave the state to enjoy what it has to offer. You can spend plenty of time, even days, in Yellowstone enjoying any number of outdoor recreational activities: backcountry camping, hiking, boating, bicycling, cross country skiing and snowshoeing, fishing, snowmobiling… just to name a few. Old Faithful is a trusty geyser named for its frequent eruptions, about one every 74 minutes.

3

DEVIL’S TOWER If you’ve never heard of Devil’s Tower, you’ve been living under a rock.

Speaking of under a rock, you should visit Devil’s

Tower! Not only is it America’s first national monument, but a sacred place for many Northern Plains Native American tribes. A visit to nps.gov will allow you to read oral histories and sacred narratives from the 1930’s detailing the Tower’s significance to American Indian culture.

Enjoy a routine eruption or two, and be on the lookout for a

There is a 1.3 mile paved path around the tower where you

glimpse of the wildlife around – seriously, everything from

can view and experience the monument from close-up. If

bears, coyotes, wolves, bison and ravens are all around.

you want a closer look, registration to climb is free and

Yellowstone is home to 67 species of mammals, 330 species

easy, and there are many routes to climb for an up close

of birds, five amphibians and six species of reptile. Just

and personal experience of the tower. To paint the picture,

please, don’t try to soak in a geyser or load any wildlife in

it is essentially an important piece of history sitting at

your Sequoia. Yellowstone had enough drama last year.

4,200 feet featuring an additional 867 feet of straight-up rock sticking up out of the ground. Go check it out.

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

41

GO FISH

6

No, not that cool card game you played when you were six. (If you still play it, that’s okay too.)

But, that’s not what we’re talking about. No, we’re talking about actual, real-life fishing, real-life streams and real-life fun. Where you ask? Well, Wyoming is a state where many streams and ponds offer quality fishing, but we’re here to tell you the when, not so much the where.

Every year, Wyoming takes part in a “Free Fishing Day” during National Fishing and Boating week – usually scheduled on a warm day in early June. On this day anglers are allowed to fish free of charge on public bodies of water. So grab your stick, find some string, dig up a worm and cast away with some friends. Watch our social channels for more info on exact dates. Sounds fishy, we know… but it’s legit.

HOT-TUBBING Not that awkward party at

4

Chad’s place where he always invites seven people to sit in his six-seater. No, we’re talking about

hot-tubbing Wyoming style. Grab your nose plugs (it’s an acquired smell, you’ll get there) and head up to Thermopolis, Wyoming for some therapeutic soaking in mother nature’s healing waters.

We are talking about 8,000 gallons per day running down the colorful terraces along the Bighorn River. You’ll soak in natural hot springs, see bison herds, walk the swinging bridge and leave feeling refreshed and invigorated – albeit, a little stinky. Use #WyomingHotTub and tag us @WyomingMagazine – we’ll follow back.

5

CHEYENNE FRONTIER DAYS

A hoedown of epic proportions. Mark your calendars folks, this is Wyoming’s biggest party.

PRCA Rodeo, World Championship Bull Riding, nightly performances by some folks you might know including in 2017 Brantley Gilbert, Luke Bryan, Little Big Town, Sawyer Brown, Jason Aldean and a whole lot more.

Indian Village, rodeo, music, old west, pancake breakfasts and fun, friendly people. Put on your party boots, and head towards Cheyenne, Wyoming, July 21st−30th for a great high-

light of your 2017 in Wyoming. May the horse be with you.

42 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

7

ICE CREAM IN CENTENNIAL I scream,

you scream, we all scream when we drive on Highway 287. But seriously, no road is too dangerous for the sweet, sweet reward of a double-dipped mint chocolate chip in a larger than life waffle cone from the Country Junction in Centennial, Wyoming. What’s up in Centennial? Stop by this homemade ice cream shop and get the local scoop.

TROY BABBITT/UW ATHLETICS

8

UW FOOTBALL If you have yet to catch a Wyoming Cowboys Football Game, don’t skip this one. Being that we

have only one university in our fine state, the Cowboys are everyone’s favorite team. Coming off a most excellent year (a first place regular season finish in the Mountain Division of the Mountain West Conference in 2016), the excitement in the air is sure to carry over into next season. It’s loud, it’s proud, it’s gold and it’s brown. So paint up, hit up War Memorial Stadium in Laramie, Wyoming and join in a celebration of song, some dance, a bit of football and a whole lot ’o’ WYO.

LONGMIRE DAYS If you’ve read Craig Johnson’s “Longmire” novels, or seen the hit Netflix series, you’ll most

9

definitely want to check out the real-life setting of Absaroka County – Johnson County, Wyoming. Buffalo, the town that somehow made this list twice, hosts the annual Longmire Days Festival early to mid-July. Watch Herd & Scene, at HerdandSceneWY.com to follow the happenings of Johnson County. They actually have some great happenings going up in that neck of the woods. Longmire Days… just go.

10

MEET EVERY RESIDENT OF BUFORD, WYOMING

That’s right, every single resident. Which, if you include the mayor and all of the mayor’s men, is approximately one person. You can drop by, meet the town, see the town, and dang near be the town for whatever duration you decide is best for you and your crew. Buford. One and done.

11

COME GET STUCK ON OUR ESCALATORS That’s right ladies and gentlemen, we’ve got an escala-

tor. As a matter of fact, we have two. These two vertical transportation methods can be quite an exhilarating ride.

Take the ups, take the downs, no height requirement for these two glorious rides. Both escalators are located in the heart of Wyoming’s friendly ghost (not really) town, Casper. One in First Interstate Bank, and one in Hilltop National Bank.

If you plan right, you might be able to sneak in a visit to both in the same day.

12

OCCIDENTAL BLUEGRASS JAM Join the likes of western legends like Butch Cassidy and the Hole-

in-the-Wall gang, Calamity Jane, Buffalo Bill, and plenty of others at the Occidental Saloon and Hotel in Buffalo, Wyoming. This is the part of the magazine where you obtain some special “insider info” as this every Thursday Bluegrass Jam may be one of Wyoming’s best kept secrets when it comes to down-home local fun. Musicians from all over the area band together for a night of fun, frolicking, beer, and bluegrass. The best cream soda you’ve never had flows just down the road at MISHAP! Brewing Company, if that’s a little bit more up your alley.

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

43

13

THE INDIAN RELAYS

The Sheridan WYO Rodeo in Sheridan, Wyoming has all kinds of fun including boot kick off contests, rodeo, street dances where they close all of Main Street and of course the Budweiser Clydesdales always make a delivery, but we’re putting one specific event as a must do in 2017: The World Championship Indian Relay Races. We’d call this “edge of your seat” entertainment, but when the relays get going, no one is really sitting down. Teams consist of one rider, three different horses, two holders and a mugger.

(Don’t worry, you’ll be mostly safe in the stands.) The race starts with a startling gunshot and what ensues thereafter is an epic thrill ride of wild horses, flying dirt, painted faces and the occasional, sometimes frequent, spill off a horse. The competing teams give it everything they have for $50,000 in cash and prizes. It’s tough to explain, but you won’t regret it.

July 12th through the 15th. A good warm up for #5 on this list.

PHOTO BY DIANA VOLK www.dianavolk.com

44 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

45

14

RUN THE CASPER MARATHON

If getting to the gym more often is a part of your New Year’s resolution, (is it?) then why not give yourself something to motivate the hustle?

Casper hosts a full and half marathon along with a pasta dinner the weekend of June 3rd. Registration is Friday the 2nd, and Saturday and Sunday (the 3rd and 4th) are race days. If you’ve had a goal to run a marathon or half marathon, now’s your chance in Wyoming’s friendly ghost (again, not really) town, Casper. More info can be found at www.RunWyoming.com #RunWithTheHerd

46 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

15

CODY FIREARMS MUSEUM

Do you like guns? You’ll like ‘em a whole lot more after you pay a visit to the Cody Firearms Museum in Cody, Wyoming. The firearms museum is home to the most comprehensive collection of American firearms in the world. That’s right, the WORLD. With over 7,000 firearms and more than 30,000 firearm-related artifacts, you’re guaranteed to find something that’ll blow your hair back. Just make sure you keep the business ends pointed away from yourself. Check out the Colt-Paterson 1839 revolving shotgun—tell ‘em Wyoming Magazine sent ya.

16

HULETT HAM & JAM Well folks,

this might not be the one to bring the kids to, but if you’re traveling without young ones, you’ll not forget the Wednesday in 2017 that you visited Hulett, Wyoming. Mid-week during the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, arguably the largest motorcycle rally in the world, Hulett hosts a party on what is known as “Wyoming Wednesday.” Thousands and thousands of bikes funnel in from the Black Hills. The Rodeo Bar in Hulett boasts a FREE pig roast and live music. That’s right—a classic ham and jam. The ham is delicious, but it’s the crowd you’ll experience that will make this visit unforgettable. Stop by, get your protein and enjoy a ride on the wild side at the Hulett Ham & Jam. (Pro Tip: Plan this one around #3 if you’re trying to knock these out efficiently.)

17

PRISONFEST 2017 No, you didn’t read

that wrong. We had many a debate here at WYO MAG about what event would be our “Wild Card” pick… and the winner, (deservedly so, I might add) was PrisonFest: a “pen to pen” fun run in Rawlins, Wyoming wearing authentic prison uniforms. Yes, it’s an event we always hoped we wouldn’t participate in, but made into fun.

Don’t tell me you’ve never wondered what runnin’ away from prison would be like? You’ll run from the current state penitentiary to the Historic Frontier Prison. After the run in your most prison-y prison uniform, you’ll congregate for a barbecue, live music, awards and games for all ages. Make Andy Dufrain proud, and run away from prison at PrisonFest 2017. Follow us @WyomingMagazine for more info.

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

47

why the

by R. Campbell Sproul

48 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

T

he pronghorn is an incredibly similar animal to an antelope, but they are not the same, even though they often share the same name colloquially. The pronghorn is a very common animal in the great state of Wyoming, in fact, until very recently

there were more pronghorns in Wyoming than there were people. Given how common they are in the state, most Wyomingites are probably well familiarized with pronghorns.

Not that the good folks from Wyoming really need one, but we're going to give a quick breakdown of what pronghorns are typically like. Pronghorns are usually around three feet tall at the shoulder, the males weigh between eighty-five and one hundred and forty pounds, while the females typically weigh between seventy and one hundred and ten pounds. Pronghorns typically live for about ten years, unless their life is tragically cut short by the front end of your truck, or the business end of your shotgun.

Pronghorns (as the name suggests) possess a really unique attribute in horns that have multiple branches, which is not at all the norm (almost all animals with horns have horns with only point). Pronghorn horns are a strange cross between antlers (which typically have more than one point, and shed each year) and regular horns which usually have only one point and don’t usually shed as often. Pronghorns are incredibly fast runners, capable of reaching top speeds of fifty-five miles per hour, and they have specially developed hooves with two long, pointed toes that allow them to absorb the shock that naturally occurs from running at such high speeds.

RIGHT: Pronghorns possess a unique attribute in that their horns have multiple branches—a strange cross between antlers (with multiple points, shed regularly) and horns (one point, shed less frequently).

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

49

Antelopes do differ somewhat from pronghorns, despite how often they can be mixed up with one another.

Antelopes are not indigenous to North America, in fact if you see an actual antelope out and about, your best bet is to make a call to the nearest zoo to see if they lost theirs, because that’s the only place you would find an actual antelope in this part of the world. Antelopes have a wide variety of different species as well, which makes it a little tougher to give a full breakdown of their typical size, but like pronghorns they do tend to run very fast for their body size.

Not surprisingly, the larger antelopes with longer legs have a tendency to run faster than the smallest forms within the broader species.

Unfortunately for them, antelopes lack a lot of the cool features of the pronghorns in Wyoming.

Antelopes, where to begin?

Antelopes (especially when compared with the mighty pronghorn) are pieces of trash. They don’t have any cool teeth, they don’t have any seriously cool hooves or awesome split horns like pronghorns do, and worst of all, they’re not even from Wyoming. Everyone knows that all the cool animals are indigenous to North America more broadly, and Wyoming more specifically, so if you’re an animal that doesn’t come from the Equality State, you are probably a lame animal.

Everyone knows that the differ-

Antelope are not indigenous to North America, and include a wide array of species that come in all sizes.

Despite obvious similarities, the antelope and pronghorn are not closely related.

50 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

ence between all the lame animals and all the cool ones is location, and since antelopes just run around in Africa and parts of central Eurasia, rather than awesome places like North America and Wyoming, we know that antelopes must be way lame when compared with

our beloved pronghorns. Not only do antelopes not come from a cool place, but they’re incredibly susceptible to predators in nature.

Figuring out the lifespan of a typical antelope in the wild is incredibly difficult because they tend to be caught and eaten by predators so often that calculating their average length of life is incredibly hard, bordering on impossible. We all know that whatever predators the lowly antelope have to deal with in nature are way less of a threat than the average hunter in Wyoming, so we have another point there to show that pronghorns are not only cooler than antelopes in general, but that they are also way better at dealing with predators, which is extremely cool in its own right. Score another point for the mighty pronghorn.

The pronghorn is not a real antelope, despite the huge number of notable visual similarities between the two animals. However, that’s very lucky for the pronghorn because real antelopes are pretty lame when compared with their cousins from Wyoming. Though the pronghorn population no longer outnumbers the human population of Wyoming, pronghorns are still strong, fast, and intelligent animals and are a wonderful part of the vast ecosystems found within the state of Wyoming.

In addition to all that, pronghorns are a lot of fun to hunt, and although the success rate in hunting them is incredibly high (due in large part to their incredibly high population) they are smart and athletic enough to make antelopes look like cows.

The lifespan of a typical pronghorn is approximately ten years. These animals are native to North America, and until recently, those found in Wyoming outnumbered the state’s human population.

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

51

Johnson county, WY

REAL COWBOYS, REAL STORIES

Things to Do in Wyoming's sub-zero temperatures

by Brady Mclean

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

53

I

t’s Wyoming… it gets cold. Sometimes, it gets downright freezing. And sometimes, the temperatures in Wyoming drop well below what we consider freezing—into what we call “Fun.” That’s right, instead of moaning and groaning like other states tend to do (we’re

not naming any names, Montana), we embrace the temperature drop like the kids these days embrace when the “bass drops.” (If that doesn’t make sense to you, try saying “when the beat drops though” to your favorite teenager… you’ll blow their freaking mind.) But we digress, here are just a few of the many entertaining ways to enjoy the occasional frigid temperatures of Wyoming’s wonderful winter:

ENJOY A “COLDER” ONE

BALLOONS

There are definitely some factors to keep in mind concerning the freezing point of beer, but generally speaking it’s about 25 to 28 degrees (−2 to −4 Celsius). If beer’s not your thing or if you’re under 21 years old, you can do this trick with soda as well. We wish the incredible Wyoming breweries would throw a sub-zero party every time weather like this came about, but you can take that up with them, they all do a stellar job. So here’s what you do: fill your cup, throw the beverage of your choice out on the porch for somewhere between 20 and 40 minutes, depending on the temperature, and bam—you’ve got mother nature’s midwestern western slushie bomb, or as we’re calling it here: A “colder” one. So next time the sun drops and takes its degrees with it, grab your mittens, set aside 30 minutes, and enjoy nature's best. Cheers.

Another great American pastime from our childhood brought back to life by the frigid cold… balloons! Here’s what you do: next time it’s so cold the cows go on strike demanding bras for their udders, blow up a balloon. Once it’s blown up, take it outside and watch it shrivel up faster than you can say Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious. Once it’s shriveled and looking like a young Benjamin Button, take it back inside and be amazed by the wonders of science. The balloon will re-inflate in front of your eyes and you can celebrate the miracle with a delicious cup of hot cocoa, or if you prefer, a delectable cup of Irish coffee. Always plan on ending these with a hot drink, when we say cold, we mean really, really COLD.

BLOW BUBBLES

We don’t have anything mystical or magic about this one per se, but we’re assuming that if it’s below freezing, there’s snow on the ground. When there’s snow on the ground, there is fun to be found! Sledding is cold, yes, but it’s a pastime, a thrill ride that you get to control the intensity of, and other than the one time cost of your sweet sled, it’s free! Go sledding, then, of course, hot cocoa.

Sure it’s not the manliest of things to do, but blowing bubbles hits a whole new level of “cool” when you do it in cold enough temperatures that the bubbles freeze. You’ll want to avoid Casper, WY though, because the wind there is not your friend when it comes to blowing bubbles, or much else.

A frozen bubble is a beautiful thing; give it a try next time you’re upset that your car won’t start because of the cold.

54 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

GO SLEDDING!

"YOU'RE A NATION" Urination can be a touchy subject, and we would advise you to check your local laws on this practice prior to trying it out, but we’re lucky in Wyoming to have far more spots to try this one out in the great outdoors. A phenomenon occurs at about negative 40 degrees Fahrenheit where you can pee, off a porch say, and depending on your hydration level, you will “snow” some tint of yellow on whatever is your aim. Please be careful when trying this one out, as there is a reason we bundle up in this kind of weather. So, try this one quickly, don’t let the frost bite!

We at Wyoming Magazine certainly don’t endorse or encourage this behavior, but we certainly support your freedom to do so lawfully. You’re a nation, Wyoming.

self in weather so cold that someone spills hot coffee on you and you thank them, try this prank out on one of your friends from down south. The warmth and wetness of your friend's tongue when applied to the cold pole will cool the tongue and your body will try to warm it back up. However, due to the high thermal conductivity of the pole, your buddies tongue will not heat up fast enough and they will be stuck.

Warning: this has been known to end friendships, so make sure it’s their choice to apply their poor, unfortunate tongue to the pole, and make sure you're prepared with plenty of hot water to help them out... or to call the paramedics if it goes the way it certainly could go. Make sure your iPhone has storage because the glory of this prank is in the retelling! Tag us on Instagram @WyomingMagazine, you cruel, cruel friend.

FLAGPOLE SUCKA Ahhh yes, we all remember the iconic scene in "A Christmas Story" when poor Flick got his tongue stuck on a freezing metal flagpole outside of Warren G. Harding Elementary School. And of course, whenever we see someone unfortunate enough to suffer an embarrassing yet wildly entertaining occurrence such as this, we owe it to ourselves to try to get our friends to do it. SO, next time you find yourWYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

55

OQGEAF?

:Q L@=

FME:=JK

L@= OGJD< K HGHMD9LAGF OGMD< L9C= MH ** =9JL@K OGJL@ G> D9F< A> L@= ?DG:9D HGHMD9LAGF <=FKALQ O9K . H=GHD= H=J KIM9J= EAD=$ 9K AL AK AF OQGEAF?&

A> =N=JQ ;ALAR=F G> OQGEAF? GOF=< GF= OQGEAF? K OGJL@ G> D9F< 1/$0)0 KIM9J= EAD=K! L@= LGL9D D9F< E9KK OGMD< := -/$),($./0$)-, KI& EAD=K O@A;@ AK =IMAN9D=FL LG 9:GML LOG 9F< 9 @9D> BMHAL=JK&

56 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

A> L@= HGHMD9LAGF G> OQGEAF? @9< L@= HGHMD9LAGF <=FKALQ G> F=O QGJC ;ALQ$ 9DD G> MK ;GMD< >AL AFLG (&(** G> OQGEAF? K LGL9D D9F< 9J=9& L@= *)&- KIM9J= EAD=K O= OGMD< L9C= MH AK GFDQ (&0 G> GMJ KE9DD=KL ;GMFLQ2 FAG:J9J9&

OQGEAF? AK @GE= LG *, <A>>=J=FL AF<=H=F<=FL :J=O=JA=K$ O@A;@ E=9FK$ 9;;GJ<AF? LG GMJ ;9D;MD9LAGFK$ L@=J= AK GF= :J=O=JQ >GJ =N=JQ +$0/- =DC AF L@= KL9L=&

A> QGM LMJF=< L@= ?J9F< L=LGFK MHKA<= <GOF >ADD=< =9;@ GF= OAL@ O9L=J$ AL OGMD< L9C= 9HHJGPAE9L=DQ GF= IM9<JADDAGF @GJK=K <JAFCAF? )( ?9DDGFK =9;@ ) <9Q LG <JAFC AL 9DD&

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

57

www.adventurewyoming.com

BY LIAM JONES

W

yoming has mystified writers, poets, and explorers since it was first discovered.

Its vast mountain ranges and pristine wilderness inspire a sense of awe and wonder in those who are privileged to take it all in.

The true essence of Wyoming, as well as nature as a whole, was captured in an elegant quote from photographer Annie Leibovitz, “I wish that all of nature’s magnificence, the emotion of the land, the living energy of the place could be photographed.” Pursuant to this theme, since the dawn of the moving picture, videographers and filmmakers going back more than 100 years have chosen Wyoming as a back-

drop for films of all genres, budget,and scope. The western most accurately captures the wild Wyoming spirit, but documentaries, romances, comedies, and dramas have all also found homes in the Equality State, and because of this we want to bring some attention to some of these other genres as well.

We at Wyoming Magazine have put together a short list of films shot in Wyoming, whether they actually take place there or not, to give an idea of the history of our proud state as depicted in film. We’ve arranged these films in chronological order, starting all the way back in 1917, and concluding our list with a movie made as recently as 2013.

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

59

1. Man From Painted Post (1917) At the cutting edge of America’s budding motion picture industry in the 20th century was the western genre, a silver-screen adaptation of the West’s dime novels.

“Painted Post”, based on the short story Silver Slippers

by Jackson Gregory, stars the swashbuckling Douglas Fairbanks as ‘Fancy’ Jim Sherwood, our hero bell-bent on hunting down bad men who have permeated the rolling plains of Wyoming cattle country.

The film is a classic detective story, featuring ‘Fancy’ Jim Sherwood going undercover at a Wyoming ranch as a dude in order to find who’s behind all the cattle rustling that’s been going on in the area. Eventually ‘Fancy’ discovers that ‘Bull’ Madden (played by Frank Campeau) is behind all the rustling operations. In the latter portion of the film, Madden kidnaps the local school teacher, Jane Forbes (played by Eileen Percy). ‘Fancy’ had quite an interest in Jane prior to her kid-napping, so he drops his disguise and goes directly after Madden.

Ultimately ‘Fancy’ gets the girl and saves the ranchers, making this a true classic in the western genre.

All of the location filming took place in Wyoming, with some other less nature-oriented shots being filmed in Fort Lee, New Jersey, a hot spot for Westerns in the time. While Fairbanks (who also produced the film and is reported to have been heav-

60 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

ily involved in the directing as well) wrote in his diary less-than-favorably of the film, the box office returns as well as critical and fan reception cemented “The Man From Painted Post” into cinematic history.

2. The Wild North (1952) “The Wild North” is something of a staple in the American Western genre. Starring Stewart Granger in the lead role of Jules Vincent, a French-Canadian fur-trapper embroiled in the often violent personal affairs of a beautiful Native American girl (played by Cyd Charisse).

As the title suggests, the film features a great number of adventures in the wild northwest for the main characters, such as fighting off desperadoes or wolf packs, or fighting off more natural enemies such as white water rapids or avalanches. During the course of the film, Vincent begins to travel with but unfortunately makes an enemy in Mike Brody (played by Howard Petrie). Eventually the tension boils over and Brody attempts to kill Vincent and Charisse, and in the ensuing fight Vincent kills Brody in self defense. Following Brody’s death, a mountie by the name of Constable Pedley (played by Wendell Corey) is sent out to track down Vincent and bring him in for the (supposed) murder of Brody. Although he eventually finds and captures Vincent, Constable Pedley finds himself in situations where in

order order to survive to survive he needs he needs Vincent’s Vincent’s skills skills as an asoutdoorsan outdoors- in the in the horror horror genre genre (though (though sci-fisci-fi related related scary scary movies movies man, man, andand subsequently subsequently becomes becomes torntorn between between doing doing tendtend to avoid to avoid these these for the for the most most partpart withwith the the famous famous things things by the by the book, book, or freeing or freeing the the manman whowho saved saved his life his life chestburster chestburster scene scene fromfrom “Alien” “Alien” being being the the major major excepexcepin the in the wilderness. wilderness. tion), tion), but but instead instead relyrely on something on something much much scarier scarier to most to most of humanity, of humanity, namely namely the the fearfear of the of the unknown. unknown.

Spielberg’s Spielberg’s While While shot shot in Wyoming, in Wyoming, the the filmfitakes lm takes place place in in influence influence can can be seen be seen in Denis in Denis Villeneuve’s Villeneuve’s newnew mastermasterCanada Canada (hence (hence the the title). title).

It was It was the the firstfifirst lmfito lmever to ever be be piece piece “Arrival,” “Arrival,” a film a fithat lm that eloquently eloquently reconnoiters reconnoiters these these shotshot in Asco in Asco Color, Color, which which waswas on the on the cutting cutting edge edge of of same same motifs. motifs. filmfitechnology lm technology at the at the time, time, andand in an ineven an even more more impresimpressivesive featfeat thanthan the the use use of Asco of Asco Color, Color, the the box-offi box-offi ce sales ce sales Much Much of the of the principal principal photography photography tooktook place place almost almost quadrupled quadrupled its extravagant its extravagant budget budget of $1ofmillion. $1 million. withwith the the larger-than-life larger-than-life Devil’s Devil’s Tower Tower as aas backdrop, a backdrop, andand Steven Steven Spielberg’s Spielberg’s immensely immensely enjoyable enjoyable andand equally equally imaginative imaginative story story tooktook bothboth the the critics critics andand the the box-offi box-offi ce by cestorm, by storm, withwith the the latter latter earning earning nearly nearly $304$304 Owing Owing much much to the to the likeslikes of Ray of Ray Bradbury, Bradbury, Steven Steven SpielSpiel- million million against against a budget a budget of just of just $20 $20 million. million.

TheThe cultural cultural berg’s berg’s epicepic extraterrestrial extraterrestrial taletale has has been been called called “The“The most most impact impact of Close of Close Encounters Encounters andand the the films films andand filmmakfilmmakimportant important filmfiof lmour of our time,” time,” by the by the esteemed esteemed sci-fisci-fi author, author, ers it ershas it has inspired inspired willwill stillstill be seen be seen for years for years to come. to come. andand its director’s its director’s storytelling storytelling abilities abilities havehave been been likened likened to that to that of Jules of Jules Verne Verne andand George George Melies.

Melies.

3. Close 3. Close Encounters Encounters of the of the Third Third KindKind (1977) (1977)

4. Django 4. Django Unchained Unchained (2012) (2012)

Following Following Spielberg’s Spielberg’s previous previous boxbox office offismash ce smash hit, hit, Quentin Quentin Tarantino’s Tarantino’s unconventional unconventional Western Western is another is another “Jaws”, “Jaws”, “Close “Close Encounters” Encounters” opened opened the the doordoor for afor branch a branch in ain long a long lineline of great of great Tarantino Tarantino movies. movies.

TheThe filmfistars lm stars of literary of literary science science fiction fiction previously previously unexplored unexplored to such to such a a Jamie Jamie FoxxFoxx as the as the eponymous eponymous Django, Django, a slave a slave who’s who’s freed freed great great extent. extent.

Because Because it isita is tale a tale about about aliens aliens of unknown of unknown by dentist-turned-bounty by dentist-turned-bounty hunter hunter King King Schultz Schultz (played (played by by origin origin andand intent, intent, “Close “Close Encounters” Encounters” doesdoes not not havehave to be to be Christoph Christoph Waltz), Waltz), whowho helps helps Django Django in his in quest his quest to fito ndfind steeped steeped in cheesy in cheesy visuals visuals andand hackneyed hackneyed dialogue, dialogue, but but andand freefree his wife his wife fromfrom a slaveowner a slaveowner (played (played

by Leonardo

by Leonardo can can instead instead delve delve intointo our our most most primal primal emotions, emotions, fears, fears, DiCaprio).

DiCaprio). andand existential existential questions. questions.

TheThe scares scares thatthat the the movie movie provides provides are are not not the the typical typical or boring or boring jump jump scares scares found found

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

61

What ensues is a gloriously ridiculous bloodbath as the deadly duo cut a sanguine path across a brilliantly shot antebellum America. But this movie is not only a ridiculous bloodbath (a feature of many Tarantino films), it is also a classic story based on the hero attempting to save his damsel in distress, which makes it incredibly compelling. Tying a classic archetype of stories that has been used for centuries in literature to the incredible artistic eye of Tarantino in a film setting makes this movie far more than just a conventional western.

There is a significant tension between Woody and his son during the trip, and this tension is never fully resolved. This film is not meant as a tear jerking family reunion story, nor as a campy road trip movie, but instead is a more tense (though oftentimes funny) examination of what it means to live with mental illness, or to live with loved ones who suffer from it. The story that ultimately unfolds is a touching and exceedingly well-acted familial drama that explores the themes of love, mental illness, and loyalty.

This movie fits the mold of Tarantino films quite well, as Tarantino takes a basic story format and makes it his own by shooting it incredibly artistically and adding his impressive flair for the dramatic (both in terms of storytelling and visually) to make the movie incredibly unconventional, while still fitting many of the necessary conventions of moviemaking to create

The film does not attempt to wrap these issues up with a nice, tidy, romanticized bow, but instead allows the tensions between the characters and their particular strengths and weaknesses to shine through, which makes the film that much more compelling.

Shot entirely in black-and-white, the film is a strange but compelling combination of drama and comedy. Beside Dern (who won at the Cannes film festival for best actor) are Will Forte, June Squibb, and Bob Odenkirk. A brisk filming schedule of 35 days split its time between Billings, Rapid City, and Buffalo, Wyoming.

The film received a long list of accolades (including six nominations at the Academy Awards) and $27 million at the box office against a budget of just over $12 million.

a good story. For the shots set in Winter, during which the audience sees our hero perfecting his bounty-hunting and gun-slinging skills, the majestic Grand Tetons provide a gorgeous backdrop.

The film was a widespread critical and financial success, landing on many “Top 10” lists for the year and others praising it as “a troubling and important movie about slavery and racism.” Earning just over $425 million, it is Tarantino’s most successful theatrical release to date.

5. Nebraska (2013) Set in Billings, Montana, Nebraska tells the story of Woody Grant (played to critical acclaim by Bruce Dern), a man who is insistent upon going from his home in Billings, Montana to Nebraska to collect a $1 million prize, of which his children are more than dubious. What’s more, Woody is not only determined to make the 900 mile trek to collect his prize, but he plans to make the entire trip on foot. Eventually Woody’s son David convinces him to hop in his car, in the hopes that the long trip will provide them with a significant bonding opportunity.

62 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

63

by Wyoming Magazine Staff

64 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

N

early everyone has at one time or another come into contact with a bully. Most of our experiences with bullies came either in childhood or in our teenage years in school, dealing with the typical schoolyard jerk who was hellbent on making life as miserable as he could for everyone around him (except perhaps his toadies, if he was a big enough deal to have any). The beady-eyed little jerk who for whatever reason, big or small, just has it out for us—the Scut Farkus of our real lives.

Many (though not all) of us are lucky enough to get through those years in elementary, middle, and high school, and go on to spend the rest of our lives without being forced to deal with a bully or a group of bullies afterwards.

Unfortunately our friends at what was formerly known as Clear Creek Brewing were not lucky enough to avoid running into bullies trying to ruin their business. These were not snotnosed middle school kids who wanted their lunch money, instead they were corporate bullies hell-bent on making as much trouble as they could and extracting as much money as possible from the good folks at Clear Creek Brewing.

BELOW: Mary and Rob McCorkle, and Chris and Michelle Jones became part of another unfortunate case of corporate bullying. Instead of closing their doors for good, the owners of what was once Clear Creek Brewery chose to rebrand their small-town craft beer business with the support and encouragement of their many friends, family—and even complete strangers.

Corporate bullying is an incredibly common problem in the United States, unfortunately, and for many small businesses like Clear Creek Brewing or many of the similar small businesses in Wyoming, that means a nearly constant fight with corporate bullies who live further up on the business food chain trying to eat into their profits.

One of the main methods that corporate bullies like to use is so common that it now even has its own pet name, “trademark bullying.” As the name suggests, trademark bullying is when a larger company with much deeper pockets and much better legal backing harasses a smaller company for purported violations of trademark law. Frivolous suits in this arena are extraordinarily common, and even when the fight doesn’t reach the court system, it’s almost always incredibly ugly, and because the odds are so stacked in their favor, much larger businesses are far more likely to engage in this disgusting behavior than their smaller counterparts.

By now you all know where this train is headed.

In April, owners Robert and Mary McCorkle and Chris and Michelle Jones received a cease and desist letter from Hood River Distillers (the company behind Pendleton Whisky) stating that Clear Creek Brewery was using a form of a name that Hood River Distillers owned, even though the name was purchased by Hood River in 2014, well after the formation of Wyoming’s Clear Creek Brewing Company in 2012.

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

The cease and desist letter made the options for the Joneses and McCorkles very clear, either discontinue operations under the Clear Creek name immediately, or sign a licensing contract with Hood River Distillers which would allow Hood River to extract significant amounts of money in licensing fees from the much smaller Clear Creek Brewing.

Not surprisingly, this was incredibly upsetting to the owners of Clear Creek Brewing, not only did their business sit just a hop, skip, and a jump away from the local (actual) Clear Creek, but their products are exclusively distributed in incredibly small batches in and around Johnson County, Wyoming. Their product is greatly enjoyed both by locals and tourists that live or spend their time in and around the Buffalo area, and with a maximum of 150 barrels per year, their product is a labor of love, and a craft that they are continuing to improve on batch by batch. At such a small production cap, this is not just a microbrewery—it’s a nanobrewery. Not only are the owners heavily invested in the drinks they produce, but they have poured their heart and soul (not to mention their savings) into renovating a historical building in downtown Buffalo to house the brewery, and they built their brand from the ground up, tying everything into the local creek. A brief search the web for businesses in and around the Buffalo area shows that many local businesses use some variation of “Clear Creek” in their name, and if you speak with the locals in Buffalo you will find that nearly all of them identify with “Clear Creek” in one form or another.

Unsurprisingly, none of these factors deterred Hood River one lick in their efforts to manufacture misery and extract money from these small business owners in Buffalo, Wyoming. Hood River tried to justify their bullying by claiming that this is just how the corporate big boys play the game, without any care for whoever they may hurt along the way.

Like we said earlier, this is simply typical bully behavior moved into suits and boardrooms instead of play clothes and playgrounds. At this point it became painfully clear to the Joneses and the McCorkles that a head-on fight would spell certain disaster for their business. Even if they were able to take the fight to a court of law, there was no guaranteed outcome by any stretch (especially given how convoluted trademark law can be in the United States).The massive legal fees they would have to pay for attorneys, along with the obscene amount of time they would spend in court instead of continuing to improve their product would almost certainly be the end of Clear Creek Brewery, whatever name it might be under. If this situation were Rocky III, Mickey Goldmill would be yelling at the Joneses and the McCorkles “You can’t win! These guys will kill you to death in three rounds!”

Once they realized they had no real chance of surviving a legal fight, the folks at Clear Creek were now down to only two options. The first of the two remaining options was to comply with the letter and pay massive (and what would ultimately be debilitating for their business model) licensing fees to Hood River. The second option, despite being a longshot, was to sign the licensing agreement on a short-term basis, and begin an immediate rebrand of the company from the bottom up, and that’s just what they did. From all of this turmoil, MISHAP! Brewery was born, all because the owners of the (former) Clear Creek Brewing realized that if you can’t beat ‘em... fork ‘em.

Wyoming Magazine was lucky enough back in August to conduct an interview with the owners of what is now MISHAP! Brewery, and they shared many great stories with us including stories of the real life mishaps they experienced in their early days of garage brewing, backyard barbecue tasting sessions, and the overwhelming support that they have experienced over the years from the Buffalo community for their craft.

In our interview it became abundantly clear that the residents of Buffalo, Wyoming had taken a great liking to these incredibly gifted but humble craft brewers and their “hallway” brewery (named for the incredibly narrow space where they do business), and that they had the full support of the community both in Buffalo, and in the surrounding Johnson County area. We unfortunately (but understandably, given the circumstances at the time) were not able to get any

66 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

of three evils and begin a total rebrand for the brewery. We know it will not be a simple undertaking, but we know that we will get through this, and we will come away from this situation as a much stronger business and as a much tighter community.”

This past October, the artists formerly known as Clear Creek Brewing shed their old and contentious name in favor of MISHAP! Brewing Company. The rebranding process is a long, tedious, expensive, and labor intensive project, but it continues onward, thanks in no small part to the massive amount of community support this tiny brewery is receiving.

At the end of October, Mishap! hosted a “celebration of life” for the brewing company and the company’s old name, along with a celebration of the company’s 4th anniversary. In early November they launched a fundraising campaign on the crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, with a goal of raising $20,000 to help offset the costs of the extensive rebranding process,

direct quotes about the trademark dispute itself, but the Johnsons and McCorkles both expressed their deep and heartfelt thanks for the support that the community had offered to them, not only in this especially trying time, but in the past as well.

Rob McCorkle ended our meeting and tour of the brewery with teary eyed appreciation for (what was still at the time) Clear Creek Brewing’s supporters, “We have been overwhelmed by the kind words and actions of friends and complete strangers. We know that this situation is only going to make us stronger as a business and as a community, and we can’t thank folks enough for their support. We have decided that the best course of action is for us to remain true to our values and to move forward. We will choose the lesser WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

67

and to date, the 400 backers of the campaign (which we’re sure include at least a few readers of Wyoming Magazine) have helped MISHAP! raise over $25,000 to go towards their efforts in rebranding the company. The process of rebranding is ongoing, as MISHAP! rolls out new branded items and merchandise, such as pints and growlers with the new logo, to signs, a website, and apparel, but it’s going exceedingly well.

In addition to all the community support they have received, the great people behind MISHAP! Brewery have had a significant amount of help from local Wyoming-based businesses who have provided support during the transition, and this incredible swell of support pouring in from individuals, businesses, and companies in the greater Wyoming community has allowed MISHAP! to sidestep their corporate bullies and leave them in the dust. Thanks to all the continued support of the Buffalo community, and the broader Wyoming community, the Joneses and the McCorkles can continue to focus on doing what they do best: making really damn good craft beer.

TOP: Rob McCorkle grins enthusiastically during the official reveal of the brewery's new brand. The small town brewers found a way to carry on their love for community and good craft beer—turning a number of "whoops" moments and bad luck into the namesake for MISHAP! Brewing Company.

68 W Y O M I N G M A G A Z I N E - W I N T E R 2 0 1 7

WWW.SHERIDANBRAND.COM

70

WYOMING MAGAZINE - WINTER 2017

THIS ISN’T A “SILK SCREEN” SHOP This is screen printing, and it is an art form. It is a delicate science marrying varied ink applications, precise heat modifications, chemical garment make-ups, and an exquisite dance that demands screen set-ups measured by the nanometer.

We take this stuff seriously, and to be quite frank,

WE ARE REALLY DAMN GOOD AT IT.

SIGN. SCREEN. STITCH.

THIS ISN’T A “SILK SCREEN” SHOP This is screen printing, and it is an art form. It is a delicate science marrying varied ink applications, precise heat modifications, chemical garment make-ups, and an exquisite dance that demands screen set-ups measured by the nanometer.

We take this stuff seriously, and to be quite frank,

WE ARE REALLY DAMN GOOD AT IT.

SIGN. SCREEN. STITCH.