4 minute read
The Artisan, Dubai
We were delighted with the news that The Artisan was moving to a more central location at the Waldorf Astoria DIFC. We initially visited The Artisan in January 2018. Even though I’ve eaten a lot of food since then, the stand out dishes I remember (even now) are the octopus, and the pate (I know we wanted to order seconds, and I was delighted to see it on the menu at the new restaurant).
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But that was 2018, and it’s now 2020. The restaurant was originally supposed to open in the spring of this year, but, well, we were all busy staying safe at home. To bridge the gap, and keep his team working, managing partner Firas Fawas opened a pizza delivery business from The Artisan kitchen. Delivering high-quality (and delicious) pizzas, I had the opportunity to sample a few at home and thought the move was an excellent pivot in an uncertain market. For those interested, the pizza menu is still available during certain times of the day on various delivery platforms (and, of course, for dine-in customers).
As we pull up to the Waldorf Astoria DIFC, I’m curious to see what the new interior looks like. The previous version was one of my favourites with its understated luxury, and the latest iteration is even more intimate, equally sophisticated, and an excellent fit for the upmarket address. Even better? With room for under 50 patrons, this is how I feel the future of dining should be in Dubai. As we sit down, my dining partner and I review both the drinks menu, which proves a bit unnecessary, as the bartender joins us and asks our preferences. The list of beverages (including a robust selection of mocktails) is impressive. We decide to order one of the signature mixers, the Sorrento, which has highlights of Lemon Juice, Sugar Syrup, Fresh Mandarin, and Basil Leaves. Furthermore, we’re impressed with how the entire drinks menu is priced.
The selection of food at The Artisan is somewhat streamlined, and we actually prefer when restaurants focus on quality over quantity. To start, we’re brought an assortment of freshly baked bread. The accompanying olive oil is well above average, and my dining partner, who has spent considerable time in Italy, is impressed with the offer. After chatting with our waiter, we decide on a trio of starters, including the must-order Polpo Croccate, Patate E Fagiolini Verde, which features an excellent slowly cooked Octopus, served with Lemon-Flavored Potato Cream Green Beans, Taggiasca Olive Sauce, Purple Potato Confit, and Garlic Flavoured Panko. To satisfy our veggie craving, we also receive the La Rapa Rossa, a Sweet and Sour Beetroot Carpaccio, Caramelized Walnuts, Buffalo Ricotta, Green Apple, and Rocket Salad. It’s actually quite filling and beautifully presented. Finally, we request the Vitello Tonnato E Insalata Di Sedano, with Thin-Sliced, Slow-Cooked Veal, Tuna, Capers Sauce and Celery
Salad. It doesn’t hit quite the same high notes as the other dishes, but, like the others, is a good plate for sharing.
For mains, we try the Tortelli Cacio E Pepe Ai Carciofi which is another must-order dish on the menu. The traditional Cacio E Pepe, Stuffed Homemade Tortelli and finished with Artichokes and fresh Marjoram. I highly recommend ordering this sumptuous bowl of fresh pasta. We’re also served the Mezzi Paccheri Al Ragu’ Di Fassona. While it might not look as beautiful as the tortelli, the combination of Paccheri Pasta with Thyme Flavoured Fassona, Beef Ragu, and Tuscan Pecorino Fondue, is still an earthy, hearty dish. Both portions of pasta would be easily split between two people.
For dessert, we’re presented with the Miele, which is a subtle end to the meal. Made of Extra Virgin Olive Oil Sponge Cake, Lavender Panna Cotta Honey Foam, and Crispy Honeycomb, the presentation could perhaps use a bit of tweaking, but we enjoy it as a light dessert. And yes, for those interested, there are plenty of traditional Italian desserts available as well. Overall, service was attentive and unobtrusive throughout the meal. We’re both impressed that even when we visited during the soft launch, and with no official announcement of opening, that the restaurant was humming with guests. We also appreciate that The Artisan is a place you can come to enjoy a pizza or more elevated pasta, the location is welcoming to all.
Looking ahead, we would be delighted to return to The Artisan and find the location a charming date night spot (whether first date or an anniversary). Given the number of seats, ringing ahead for reservations might be the best option.
Polpo Croccate, Patate E Fagiolini Verde, AED 93 La Rapa Rossa, AED 50 Vitello Tonnato E Insalata Di Sedano, AED 75 Tortelli Cacio E Pepe Ai Carciofi AED 85 Mezzi Paccheri Al Ragu’ Di Fassona, AED 110 Miele, AED 50
