ONE EIGHTY Magazine by Dino-Ray Ramos

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VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE COLOR + ART fashion + art + culture = 180 spring 2009

VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE fashion + art + culture = 180 spring 2009

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GET IN TOUCH CONTENTS

FASHION

FEATURES

Fashion Dictionary How to speak fashion-ese

Panorama Sundresses shot in a colored landscape

Boutiques one eighty shops around the globe

David Downton

Style A-Z Everything you need to know this summer and beyond

Style Tights

Where the Wild Things Were Not

Designer Lookbook: Louisa Parris

Julian & Helene Layered knits and a cuddle partner for wintry summers

Dai Fujiwara: Issey Miyake’s Creative Director

Eye Photo Winning submissions from our camera phone contest

ANTI-FASHION

Garbagedress Blog Fashion blogger Zana Bayne craves your attention

Artists on Fashion

Sticky & Sweet A design challenge involving, you guessed it, condoms

International Fashion Director: Gene Krell Tells us on why he hates bling

DESIGN

Gypsies, Jetsetters and Ruffians Subjects of new must-read titles from Assouline

Take a Trip Stacie Willoughby’s psychedelic posters

one eighty Hearts Artists Mark Elliot, Jin Young Yu and Ciriaco Sayoc

Pillow Talk with Guest Editor Yaling Hou Her reviews of Academy-designed textiles

CULTURE

Hey Mr. DJ Profiles of three sound artists from fashion week

Deerhunter one eighty hangs with the band

News from Wondercon Where fanboys fly their geek flags high

one eighty Role Model Spoken Word Artist Ruby Veridiano-Ching

Cover photographed by Joe Budd. Clothes by Scott McFarland.

104 Night Lights Millinery madness from Academy students 112 Neutral Territory A sneak peek of next season’s graduate collections 122 High Style :an afternoon with best-dressed Mrs. Hale 126 Disco Knits: Homage to Grace Jones

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128 Study Abroad: Fashion School in Doha, Qatar 130 Erogenous Zones Clavicles: are they hot or not?

134 Urban Outfitted Brooklyn through the eyes of its hipster denizens 140 Accessories from Three Rising Stars 148 Ignore This Box: do as we say

Academy of Art University School of Fashion CONCLUSION 7th Floor 156 We Were There 180 New Montgomery At the event of the year: Barack Obama’s inauguration San Francisco California 157 Prototype 164 94105 Horoscope 166 Last Word

FIX STAMP HERE

CONTRIBUTORS

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VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE COLOR fashion + art + culture = 180 spring 2009

In honor of our first themed issue on color, tell us the hue of your favorite food. “Green–my favorite food is lettuce.” who: Vivian G. Kelly, online instructor, Fashion Journalism day job: freelance writer and founder/editor of The Fashion Examiner blog one eighty story: multiple Vivian mentored, oversaw and edited articles throughout this issue with her online students.

“Green–I love asparagus.” who: Yaling Hou, MFA Textile Design, ‘07 day job: creator and founder of design company Flowie one eighty story: Pillow Talk As a textile design alumna, Yaling was the perfect guest editor to curate projects our applied textile classes.

“Vanilla ice cream.” who: Ali Khan, online MFA, Fashion Design, ‘08 day job: designer and instructor at Qatar University one eighty story: Postcards from Doha Ali introduced us to his fashion design class and took us around to see Doha’s sights and sounds.

“Red for hot sauce.” who: Chris Scott, instructor, Fashion Merchandising day job: creator of Makeup Gourmet one eighty story: Neutral Territory One eighty plucked this beauty veteran from Chanel’s backstage to doll up FORD model Rebecca.

“Red-orange from rich spicy sauces.” who: Ivan Mendoza day job: freelance hair and makeup artist one eighty story: Julian & Helene In our ode to wintry San Francisco summers, Ivan’s genius touch kept our models looking hot.

“Smoked salmon pink.” who: Louisa Parris, instructor, Fashion Design day job: designer one eighty story: Designer Lookbook Louisa did double duty as designer and stylist in this shoot.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Cheryl Locke CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jonathan Kyle Farmer EDITOR-AT-LARGE Dino-Ray Ramos DESIGN DIRECTOR Fransisca Tan, BFA Graphic Design ARTICLE EDITORS Mignon A. Gould, MFA Fashion Journalism Sata Schramm, MFA Fashion Journalism FEATURES EDITOR Anika Brown, BFA Fashion Merchandising MUSIC EDITOR Melissa Tan, BFA Fashion Journalism MUSIC REPORTER Tia Newton, MFA Fashion Journalism FASHION CORRESPONDENTS Shaneia Caldwell, MFA Fashion Journalism Kelly Wetherille, MFA Fashion Journalism FASHION ASSOCIATES Sequoia Hopkins, BFA Fashion Journalism

“How would you describe the color of croissants? That and black coffee.” who: Flore Morton, instructor, Fashion Design and Styling day job: freelance stylist one eighty stories: High Style and Disco Knits A matchmaker of sorts, Flore introduced photography student Beata Pevny and fashion student Tafen Kuo last semester. They worked their collaborative magic in portraits of San Francisco Denise Hale.

Renata Lindroos, BFA Fashion Merchandising GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Cyrin Jocson, BFA New Media MARKETING ASSOCIATE Savo’na Jenkins, MFA Fashion Merchandising

BE OUR FRIEND: one eighty MAGAZINE Academy of Art University School of Fashion 7th Floor 180 New Montgomery San Francisco, CA 94105 oneeighty@academyart.edu www.iqons.com/one+eighty

INTRODUCTION A Letter from the President

From day one at the Academy of Art University, students obtain their education by working alongside industry professionals. This teaching philosophy is at the core of the School of Fashion’s magazine: one eighty. It takes a dedicated team to put together a magazine and I am proud that our curriculum has produced a qualified student staff that is up for the task. Each page of this publication is an example of a successful collaboration across departments: fashion, graphic design, illustration and photography. In our spring/summer issue, one eighty explores color and the ways that it inspires. I’d like to highlight a few of the stories you’ll find from our talented stylists, designers and photographers: “Neutral Territory” is set among the architecture models on campus. We show the toiles that will be made into finished garments for our fashion show this September at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. “In Colored Landscapes” is a panoramic exhibit of sundresses from online graduate, Elena Akoulova. Taken with cross-processed film, the shoot reminds us of the beauty of technologies past and present.

Sincerely,

Dr. Elisa Stephens, President

“Where the Wild Things Were Not” is an illustrated fashion shoot based on Maurice Sendak’s children’s book and Spike Jonze’s highly anticipated film, which cinches for us the close connection fashion shares with fantasy and popular culture. I hope that the creativity in these pages will have you declare optimism as the new black. I’m excited about our future. One innovation that the Academy of Art University has embraced is our online education. It has given students around the world a chance to pursue their dreams with our accomplished faculty. For one eighty, it has given the magazine a global network of reporters. Our fashion and culture coverage spans from San Francisco to Brooklyn and as far away as Tokyo, Paris and Doha. And last but not least, we’d like to thank our accomplished alumni, faculty mentors and contributors for generously lending their time and resources to one eighty.

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FASHION DICTIONARY Entry: MODEL CARD [mod-l khard] -noun

Def.: A model card is an oversized glossy business card relating to models and their signed agencies and usually printed on 5x8 card stock. Typically features one or more photographs of the modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work in a variety of expressions from manic to melancholy. Found in offices and studios where castings for all kinds of fashion production occur including but not limited to shoots and runways. Often clutched in the hands of enraged or effusive creative directors and /or tacked on to foam boards by groveling assistants.

Photos by Simon Ungless, Director of Fashion

Left: Karlie Kloss, Karmen Pedaru and Myf Shepherd at Next Models, New York

180 BOUTIQUES

TOKYO’S WUT BERLIN

SAN FRANCISCO’S SHOTWELL A hipster haberdashery hidden in Union Square

Because not everyone is a Berliner. When you’re not local, savvy Tokyoites shop here.

Citing London’s Dover Street Market and New York’s Opening Ceremony as inspirations, co-owners Holly Kricher and Michael Weaver, have opened an unpretentious exploritorium of contemporary and vintage fashion.

Wut berlin is a boutique with an eclectic selection of menswear, women’s fashions and accessories. Pieces range from the elegant to the quirky, butall come from young, up-and-coming designers based in Berlin.

The shop carries classic but edgy streetwear, emerging designers (like Momoca and Ali Golden), rebuilt vintage and affordable avant-garde brands (such as Surface to Air and Cheap Monday). Vintage suitcases,found objects and sculptures such as Amy Lee’s tri-tiered wedding cakes made of cardboard also heighten the experience. —Renne Torres 36 Geary St., San Francisco

The space itself, tucked down a side street in the high-end Omotesando district, is very minimal with exposed concrete floors and white tiled walls accentuated by tomato red hanger racks. This graphic simplicity serves as the perfect backdrop for the ever-changing merchandise as well as the installations by German artists that grace the front window. —Kelly Wetherille, online MFA Fashion Journalism 5-1-15 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku Tokyo

OAKLAND’S PRETTY PENNY Picture this: a ‘70s Pierre Balmain dress for (drum roll please) less than $30. Unheard of, right? Welcome to Pretty Penny.

Sarah Dunbar has been a vintage junkie from an early age and has the credentials to prove it. She has well-known thrift establishments like Brooklyn’s Beacon’s Closet and Berkeley’s Mars Mercantile on her résumé. Her obsession led her to test her own business venture. Once a month, she turned her home into a store where friends could sift through her latest finds while sipping a cocktail. Pretty Penny was born when the event became too much for her one-bedroom apartment to handle. Dunbar has made a point of keeping the store friendly. “It’s for people to have a place that they can come to and feel comfortable…like picking through a friend’s closet.” To top it off, she has converted the location’s upper level into an art

gallery and occasionally hosts community fashion shows (the last featured accessories from Academy of Art University alumna Abi McCannon). And how would one get in on such an event? Apparently all you have to do is ask. “Some of the stuff we carry is made by people [who] I know personally, but I’ve also had people come in and ask me about selling their stuff. If you bring in a sample and I feel like it fits with the Pretty Penny [aesthetic], then great!”—Kelly Dalbeck, BFA Fashion Journalism 5488 College Ave., Oakland www.prettypennyclothing.com

NEW YORK’S DÉBUT Young designers are unveiled to fashion society at this chic Nolita boutique

It is every fashion student’s dream to have her senior collection get snapped up by Barneys or praised in the pages of Vogue. In reality, it is as unlikely as Anna Wintour posing for a PETA ad. Now, young designers have a new ally in Lisa Weiss. She fell in love with the creativity of independent designers while attending New York’s FIT. Inspired by her gifted yet unsung peers, she opened Début last summer. Each season Weiss handpicks emerging labels from around the world. Unlike other indie retailers, Début offers items that lean toward the avant-garde. Adding to the experience is the store’s modernist layout. The space is infused with a gallery-like atmosphere that showcases each collection like a piece of art. Past seasons saw works by two Academy of Art University alumni, womenswear designer BoKyung Cha (MFA ‘07) and jewelry designer Quoc Lieu (BFA ‘00). This summer, Début features another diverse roster of rising talent: Dutch designer Ursula Pelt’s flirty line of separates and industrial necklaces from New York’s Gemma Redux. Far from the Gap, Début proves to be the antidote to the monotony of mass culture.—Anika Brown, BFA Fashion Merchandising 298 Mulberry Street New York, NY www.debutnewyork.com

STYLE A-Z A primer for everything cool this summer.

Illustrations by Jannika Lilja, BFA Fashion Design

is for As Seen on TV merchandise. The Snuggie has taken the world by storm AND if you order now you can get an Itty Bitty Book Light! Now that’s a deal!

is for economic crisis. Now everyone knows how it’s like to be a starving student/struggling artist.

is for Kilts. Men in skirts were everywhere on fall ‘09 runways: Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens and Alexander McQueen.

is for Janelle Monae. She could possibly be the future of hip-hop– and all music for that matter.

is for Lady Gaga. She’s the “it” dance diva of the moment. Did we mention she wore an acrylic shoulder piece by Mike Feeney in her Poker Face music video?

is for Minx nails. A press-on nail alternative. If Beyonce wears them, then they must be COOL.

is for Diouf, as in Kinee Diouf–the up and coming Senegalese runway model that has been turning a lot of heads.

is for crystals on collars at Vera Wang and baubles on bodysuits at Alexander McQueen.

is for broad shoulders. We are seeing lots of them on the runway. Let’s just not let it get out of hand.

d c

is for iPhone. And yes, we know you have one. But, please stop showing it to us. By the way, check out this application called Old Photo.

is for San Francisco's Harputs Market and other stores that verge on art gallery and boutique.

is for “fabulous” and “fierce.” We’ll try to keep these words to a minimum in this month’s issue.

g is for gauntlets —a styling craze that is spreading like wildfire.

is for olive oil ice cream. Hey–don’t knock it till you tried it.

is for Nyota Uhura. The vampy Star Trek lieutenant is played by Zoe Saldana in J.J. Abrams’s redux of the sci-fi classic, she is the sexiest person on the Starship Enterprise.

is for print journalism. It’s not dead yet! Come to our rescue by reading one eighty.

q is for quarter-life crisis. Chances are, you are going through it right now. If not, your time will come.

is for Skins, the British teen drama. And P.S.both girls and guys are allowed to crush on the character of Maxxie Oliver. He’s so dreamy.

is for Rorschach inkblot tests. Not only are they used to psychologically evaluate, but it’s also the name of the coolest shorttempered anti-hero on Watchmen.

is for vertical eco-gardens. A wall on a building that is completely covered in vegetation–also known as a green wall. It’s the new Chia pet.

is for aleXsandro Palombo, the illustrator of Vanitas, Inshalla, a provocative surrealistic look at the fashion world.

is for The Totoro no Furusato National Fund. Founded by filmmaker Hayao Miyazake, they work with artists to preserve Tokyo’s Sayama urban forest through art sales (www. totoroforestproject.org).

is for yellow gold. It’s back and badder than ever. Mr. T should be happy.

is for zero emission. Green your ride with a bike. Or for the price of this Chanel bike, you might get yourself a Smart car.

is for Where the Wild Things Are— one of the best children’s books (and soon-to-be movie by Spike Jonze) ever made.

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ANTI-FASHION DESIGNERS

GARBAGE DRESS BLOGGER ZANA BAYNE IS THE MOST POPULAR GIRL ONLINE BUT SHE’S STILL CRAVING ATTENTION

CITIZEN:Citizen’s showroom and tote

IN OUT

AND

AS A CITIZEN OF THE MODERN WORLD WE GO THROUGH MANY OBJECTS IN OUR ENTIRE LIFE. THINGS ARE EASY TO GET AND THROW AWAY IN THIS FAST PACED WORLD OF CONSUMER.

YOU NAME IT and Zana Bayne’s on it: Instant Messenger, LiveJournal, MySpace and Facebook. She has an addictive relationship with the net, to say the least, and she’s documented it in her art. She’s made a short film Video with my Laptop (R.I.P.) showing her canoodling with said device: smelling it, feeling it, knowing its every corner. Bayne’s work centers around isolation of various kinds on sites like MySpace and Facebook. While her blog (Garbagedress.blogspot.com) gets more and more popular, it’s hard not to characterize it as ironic and self-imposed.

Her blog has taken off and been given a shout out from Chictopia. There she documents her life as a girl-around-town and employee at Harputs Market, the best place in San Francisco to buy Yohji Yamamoto coats and Maison Martin Margiela shoes.

PHILIP WOOD is the founder of CITIZEN:Citizen a San Francisco-based design studio. To join his collective of cool kids that include design duo FredriksonStallard and self-titled “designtrepreneur” Joe Gebbia, Wood needs to click with you.

Bayne’s off to Berlin this spring but while we say auf Wiedersehen, it won’t be the last we’ll hear of her adventures.—Leah Mendelson, BFA Fashion Design

“When you find the artist you feel the connection, and suddenly something makes sense,” explains Wood. “Art has the ability to make you see the world in a new way.” Perhaps the most infamous in his collective is artist Tobias Wong. His 18kt gold-dipped McDonald’s coffee stirrer, which he cast as a cokespoon, earned him a cease-and-desist lawsuit. Another noteworthy art object is Bradley Price and Joel Yatscoff’s American Comfort Quilt, a limited-series blanket with 58 quintessential brands that make up the fabric of American identity. CITIZEN:Citizen’s collection ranges in price from $27 to $9,600 and are sold at art galleries, pop up stores and boutiques worldwide.

A RADICAL WARDROBE AT THE KATONAH MUSEUM “CITIZEN:Citizen is not trying to say this is good and this is crap,” says Wood. “We want you to question the value.” One such phenomenon in our society that confuses value is the commercial brand, which Wood and his madcap collective criticize. For instance, his wedding band is designed by Tobias Wong to look generic and non-conventional. The diamond is set in the inner part of the band hidden from public sight. For Wood, the real beauty is the simplicity and function. “When you see a fifty thousand dollar diamond on someone’s finger, it’s almost an insecurity,” says Wood. For Wood, the objects that prove the most meaningful are humble. He points to a wooden block and says, “This is the only thing I’ll jump into a burning home to save.” It belonged to his mother, who passed when he was 37. It’s the only thing he took from his mother’s home when she died. “This thing has no value to anyone else, but me,” says Wood. — Enkhjargal Badamkhand, BFA Fashion Merchandising

THIS SUMMER, Katonah Museum of Art presents an exhibit titled Re-Addressing Identities: Clothing as Sculpture and of the 40 works in the bunch, not one is made by a fashion designer. Fashion becomes a metaphor to discuss the state of art in our culture. San Francisco artist Ray Beldner gives his own fashion statement in the “Gelt Suit” which is made of dollar bills. The cost of art and fashion is also the theme for Sonya Clark’s “Penny Loafers.” Artist Kate Kretz’s “Defense Mechanism Coat” may look like your typical wool coat, but inside it holds 150 pounds of roofing nails pushed through the surface to deflect close encounters. The velvet pink lining is embroidered to illustrate the major arteries of the body. It’s body armor to protect our vital organs in this scary, scary world. For more info, visit www.katonahmuseum.org. —Shaneia Caldwell, MFA Fashion Journalism

Photos by Bob Toy

ondom outure

Fashion that Thinks Outside the Wrapper By: Turquoise Booker , BFA Fashion Journalism

Cropped jacket with Kimono sleeve Cropped jacket with kimono sleeves by Alice Spies & Rachell Rondell by Alice Spies & Rachel Rondell

, BFA Fashion Journalism

A team of Academy students had the opportunity to participate in a design challenge presented by Project Inform, a San Francisco non-profit empowering people living with HIV and AIDS. Their task: make a runway ready piece completely out of condoms. Working with prophylactics led to a few awkward situations. "I had to wash tons of condoms in the girl’s bathroom and deal with the weird looks people were giving me,” recalls Alice Spies (Fashion Design ‘10), who created a kimono-sleeved bolero. The process from sketch to stitch generally stayed on track for Lisa Relth (Fashion Design ‘11). Describing her aesthetic as classic with a twist, she created a mesh gown by stitching the condoms together into one giant sheet of latex. Despite the ick-factor, the challenge of working with unconventional materials prepared the young designers for what’s to come. 18

Fringed funnelneck by Alice Spies BFA Fashion Design & Rachell Rondell BFA Fashion Design

Latex dress with neck piece by Lisa Relth BFA Fashion Design Latex dress with neck piece by Lisa Relth BFA Fshion Design

Organza & latex dress by Eric Holbriech BFA Fashion Design Styled by Ashley Johnston BFA Fashion Journalism Johnson Photo by Jieun Lee Hair: Daniel Parsitt & Tess Lichtwardt Danielle Parfitt & Tess Lichtwardt Makeup: Stephanie Felo & Jezabel Medina Model: Caitlyn Randrup

NICE GUY GENE KRELL GOES CONDÉ NASTY

HE’S A MAN OF CONTRASTS: A KID FROM BROOKLYN BEFORE IT WAS HIP, GENE KRELL WENT FROM A FORMER AMATEUR BOXER FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRACKS TO INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR AT VOGUE JAPAN.

He got a job at the legendary boutique Granny Takes a Trip, which he eventually ended up owning. During this time he not only catered to the likes of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Jimi Hendrix and Marc Bolan, but he also met Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, who were selling old records at a shop down the street. This led to his becoming Westwood’s right-hand man, where he saw her rise as the queen of punk. Portrait by Randy Brooke

When asked about the worst fashion trend of his lifetime, Krell says bling “because bling has no conscience whatsoever—it is a kind of anarchy without morality.”

Gene Krell’s ascent to the heights of fashion began when he dropped out of college in the mid‘60s and moved to London, the birthplace of the Youthquake. “I’ve always had a tremendous disdain for authority,” says Krell. “I’m sure there’s a lot you can learn from school, obviously, but those weren’t the measures I was interested in.”

Krell’s stories from this period of his life range from the entertaining to the downright outrageous. “I remember when [McLaren’s boutique] was the SEX shop, and a woman was trying on a pair of boots and she had an orgasm and fainted.” Krell’s experience working with Westwood as well as the connections he made during this period, shaped his future career. At the height of the punk era in the ‘70s, Krell was brought over to Asia by a Tokyo magazine to offer insight into British fashion and pop culture. After leaving London and working a brief stint with Details magazine in New York, he was tapped by Condé Nast to oversee the launch of Vogue in Korea and subsequently, in Japan. Krell, now 62, lives in Tokyo and currently works for a total of nine magazines, including Vogue Nippon, GQ Japan, and Vogue Hommes Japan as well as the Korean editions of Vogue, W, GQ and Allure

He feels similarly about the rise in prices of designer clothing. “The clothes [should] warrant or merit the price. Like a jacket that’s handmade, or shoes that are bench made, you understand [why they’re expensive]. I mean, [John] Lobb charges those prices because of the quality involved, not the label. The label has established its notoriety and its reputation not because it’s trend-oriented, but because it’s quality-oriented.” After over four decades of firsthand experience in the fashion industry, Krell maintains that fashion shows remain the most anti-climatic. “You know, you work six months on a show and then it’s over in fifteen minutes. It’s just an extraordinary feeling of loss. You cry for a minute, particularly with Vivienne because the clothes were always just so provocative and just awe-inspiring. But then as soon as the show is over you start the process again.” Krell has a lot of opinions about the current state of fashion. He speaks with incredible admiration of fashion greats such as Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior, and has an equal amount of disdain for those who pass themselves off as designers. “It demeans the industry's integrity when J.Lo calls herself a designer. [Celebrities] don’t understand the very nature of fashion as a creative force. I think it deludes people into thinking that anyone can do it. Anyone can do it, but that doesn’t mean they can do it well. I believe you have to earn the right to be there.”

Possibly better than anyone else in fashion, Krell knows what it’s like to find yourself surrounded by a world of beauty and extravagance. So what advice does he have for young aspiring designers and editors hoping to get a break? Two things: first, “You can’t consider yourself a victim,” he says, referring to his upbringing surrounded by poverty and violence. “Don’t use [your situation] as an excuse.” Krell’s second pearl of wisdom has to do with perspective. “When the majority of the world lives below the poverty line and then you see a trend-oriented jacket selling for three thousand dollars, it’s food for thought.” To reconcile the glitz and glamour of the fashion industry with the terrible living conditions of much of the rest of the world, Krell recommends giving to charity wherever possible. “A ten dollar mosquito net can save a child from malaria and potential premature death and twenty-five cents can rehydrate a child,” he says. It’s pretty good advice from someone who has lived on both sides of the tracks. — Kelly Wetherille, online MFA Fashion Journalism

“When

the majority of the world lives below the poverty line and then you see a trend-oriented jacket selling for three thousand dollars, it’s food for thought.” —Gene Krell

palace blue

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PERFECT BOUND This spring Assouline introduces a new Ruffian and gets into the mashup craze with Gypset. by Philip Washington, BFA Fashion Merchandising

HUSBAND AND WIFE TEAM Prosper and Martine Assouline have established a niche luxury brand in the world of publishing. With so many successful titles, Martine looks at creating a book like following a delicious recipe. “You must choose all the best ingredients and cook them together to [get] the best results,” she says. “A good plate must please you, surprise you and remain in your memory. It doesn’t have to be too stylized–it’s more a question of good proportions.” According to her, those proportions are creativity, savoir faire and selection of other good “elements,” which are all the tasty ingredients in Ruffian: Inside Out.

Author Nicole Phelps highlights the work of fashion design duo Brian Wolk and Clause Morais taking us through the pair’s creative journey from inspiration to collection. The images in this book do most of the talking. We see the organization of the process from sketchbook to muslin and eventually to the runway. Another spring title by Assouline is Gypset Style, which explores the fusing of two countercultures: the gypsy and the jetset. Not only does it show groovy, bright young things, but writer Julia Chaplin also explores the social history of the times, and its creation of a new personal style.

“The codes of beauty and fashion had changed,” explains Martine of the book’s premise. “The new snobism [was] to privilege places away from symbols of business and [work] stress. It was a way to show one’s own identity and to [be different].” Indeed the fashion tome is both style and substance that will certainly add cool sophistication to any fashion student’s bookshelf. Clockwise from top left: Ruffian's inspiration board; Veruschka in a silk headdress;Twiggy by Bert Stern; Chico and the Gipsy Kings by Mr.Henk; A gypsy dance by Lucien Clergue; Carolyn Roumeguere bedroom in Kenya; Runway images from Ruffian's fall 2008 (Re)form collection; Assouline boutique in Paris. All photos courtesy of Assouline.

WOWIE ZOWIE

One eighty says ‘folk yeah!’ to Stacie Willoughby’s psychedelic poster art.

Poster art serves as a utilitarian form of communication. However, the mind-melting use of color and lettering seen in Stacie Willoughby’s posters are works of art in and of themselves. Her posters draw quick comparisons to legendary artists of the ‘60s: Alton Kelley and Wes Wilson.

By Caitie Kealy, BFA Fashion Journalism

When she first started, her posters were black and white. All she could afford were photocopies. Nowadays, funds for color printing come from commissions from bands and Bay Area concert promoters Folk Yeah. But it’s more the community that gathers around the posters that she’s most proud of. “Posters [are] signals for the underground,” says Willoughby.

Rather than hunting down inspiration, Willoughby prefers a more laid-back approach, letting whatever passes her way catch her interest. Much of her art is a result of influences marinating all day and becoming realized at night. She shares the same philosophy as the Japanese art of wabisabi, which finds beauty in imperfections. She’s guided by basically everything she’s come across in life: animals, decomposition, poetry and “the minds of other people turned inside out.” For more info, visit myspace.com/notesfrombelow.

Petrified BUT JIN YOUNG YU’S MODELS WILL SURVIVE

Jin Young Yu’s angst-ridden sculptures stand three to five feet tall and were designed as family units with pet dogs in tow. The pigeon-toed figurines are made of clear PVC and have masks that don blank and sad expressions. The only optimistic spot is the Marimekko-esque prints on the tights. Yu’s work is at London’s Union Gallery (www.uniongallery.com). She will also show at the Hong Kong Art Fair in May and at London’s Zoo Art Fair in October.

Putting Heart Back into Art

Artist Mark Elliot (‘07 BFA) doesn’t recall when he began his love affair with art. But, here at one eighty his vulnerable figures had us at, well, you know. Casi Densmore-Koon (online BFA Fashion Journalism) talks to him about his emotional landscapes. one eighty (180): What goes through your mind when you sit down to a blank canvas?

180: What’s your advice for those interested in pursuing a career in art?

Mark Elliot (ME): I can’t really answer this question right now. Today when I sat down nothing came. So, I answered some emails and played with my kids. I think about 10:00 tonight it will come back.

ME: Number one: be kind to people. You never know where an opportunity is going to come from. Two, be easy to work with; no one makes it all on their own. Three, meet your deadlines. Start that practice now. Nothing gets easier after school. Four, make sacrifices. You may have to miss some nights out on the town. Get sleep. Your brain needs to be involved with what your eyes and hands are doing. Five, work, work, work. There is always someone else out there doing what you are doing and maybe a little better.

180: Are your illustrations ever autobiographical? ME: Some are private. Some are personal. Most are daydreams really. 180: How many projects are you working on at any given time? ME: I have about five sketchbooks I’m regularly drawing in. I usually have two to four paintings going. They need time to dry and I need time away from them to think. 180: What are your favorite materials to work with? ME: Anything flat-oil, acrylic, ink, whiteout. Whatever. It all has its place and purpose.

180: Is your work available for purchase? ME: You can look for a show in September 2009 at the Academy. While I was a student, I scheduled my senior show two and a half years out. I thought it would be a good reason to come back to the city after graduation. Now it’s only a few months out and I never left San Francisco. Check out his blog: www.jetpropelledrobot.blogspot.com.

—Sheri Williams, online BFA Fashion Design

Guys & Their Dolls DENIM DESIGNER CIRIACO SAYOC HAS A NEW HOBBY. AND, FOR THE RECORD, THEY’RE FIGURINES– NOT DOLLS. By Natassia Silva, BFA Fashion Merchandising

For the past five years, Ciriaco Sayoc (Fashion Design, ’01) has been working for Levi Strauss. When he isn’t slaving away in the denim dungeon, he’s obsessively working on a collection of one-of-a-kind figurines, which he calls “Figments.” Figments grew out of Sayoc’s passion for sneaker collecting in high school. His collection ranges from humanoid figurines outfitted with kicks to patchwork bird-like stuffed animals. Each one is dressed to reflect Sayoc’s interest in hip-hop culture. His sneaker fetish has downsized from about 100 pairs to 10 as worn on his favorite figurines. The dozens of others have been bought at his past art shows at Haight’s Lower Haters gallery. For information on Sayoc’s upcoming shows, visit www.afigmentof.com.

With Flowie designer Yaling Hou

Pillow Talk By Mignon A. Gould, MFA Fashion Journalism

Yaling Hou’s home decor line Flowie, is an extension of her passion for textile design. Hou uses traditional hand drawings as well as computer generated graphics to create her nature-inspired motifs. Her line includes everythingfrom scarves and tote bags to towels and stationary.

Cool collage of San Francisco. This pillow tells a story of the city. Cori Ferguson BFA Design ‘10

Love the patchwork. The recycled fabrics are a good interpretation of the “Discarded to Divine” theme. Jennifer Filo BFA Fashion Design ‘12

We recently gave this alumna (MFA Textile Design ‘07) a sneak preview of submissions to San Francisco’s Discarded to Divine spring show. Here are her favorite picks that go up for bid this May.

Good stitching. And, the childlike drawing is fun. Dong Zhong BFA Fashion Design ‘09

Nice contrast between line drawing and broad strokes. My cousin Nicole would like to add this pillow to her collection of shiny gold objects.

My favorite! Great color and illustration combinations. I’d love to frame these and hang them on my hallway wall. Alexandra Cohen BFA Design ‘09

DISCARDED TO DIVINE St. Vincent de Paul’s runway show and auction help the homeless. by Melissa Paullus, BFA Fashion Journalism Four years ago, Sally Rosen, the Help Desk Director at St. Vincent de Paul, experienced an epiphany while sorting through donations: she would take the bins of discarded clothes, curtains and luggage to designers to rework into ready-to-wear and home furnishings. Since then, every year, the clothes go on display at the de Young museum and are auctioned off. The proceeds go to help the city’s homeless population and survivors of domestic abuse.

I love any print with dogs! Delphina Rodriguez BFA Fashion ‘10

Simple, yet eye-catching. I can see this pillow in my new living room. Kathryn Rubin BFA Fashion Design ‘09

This year’s show takes place on May 7, 2009 at San Francisco’s Gift Center Pavilion. For more info, go to www.discardedtodivine.org.

Photos by Bob Toy

Zhangchi Wang BFA Fashion ‘11

fuschia

COLOR

THREE TUNED-IN TASTEMAKERS SHOW WHY THE RIGHT MUSIC MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE.

Marc Jacobs spring runway

By Tia Newton, MFA Fashion Journalism

Surprisingly the thump coming from the runway isn’t just another model taking a tumble but rather the sound artistry of a deejay. Previously considered little more than sonar wallpaper, runway music has evolved into a choice just as important as hairand makeup. Designers use music to tell the stories behind their collections. One eighty profiles some of the best that spin their unique sounds on the runways.

DJ SCOTT EWALT The music can either make or break the show according to New York based DJ Scott Ewalt, who’s been DJ-ing for over 21 years. He’s created the sound for over 100 runways including Thierry Mugler, Isabel Toledo, Hugo Boss and Reem Acra. This past New York Fashion Week, he worked with Academy of Art University, James Coviello and Adrienne Vittadini. He finds inspiration from what he calls the “sound of the season,“ which for him includes ‘60s dancehall covers of Motown. Ewalt says it’s important for him to meet with fashion clients to strike a balance between the clothes and the soundtrack so that the overal show appears informed about the past and hip to the present.

DJ Wilson Chan

DJ WILSON CHAN DJ Wilson Chan is according to himself “the guy that makes it come to life.” As a former graphic designer at Nautica, Chan got his start in runway music after he convinced the then creative director to take a chance on him. Chan’s success led him to underscore soundtracks for prestigious companies such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Peter Som, Derek Lam, Anne Klein, Zac Posen, Nicole Miller, J.Mendel and Heatherette. Finding the perfect music for a fashion show “is about an overall feeling and understanding inside when one hears the music. Sometimes it is energy with a toe taping beat; sometimes it is romantic [with a] melancholic beauty.” For fall 2009, he worked with Carolina Herrera, Mattel on its Barbie’s 50th Anniversary fashion show, Nicole Miller and Jason Wu. On Chan’s playlist were Hercules and the Love Affair, Lily Allen, Ladyhawke, The Killers and Cassie.

DJ FREDERIC SANCHEZ For Sanchez, creating the perfect runway soundtrack “is a mental journey that’s not so much about what’s popular at the moment but about reinterpreting everything that surrounds us.” Parisian Frederic Sanchez, considers himself a sound designer, and customizes music for some of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses. Sanchez is responsible for introducing Miuccia Prada to electroclash (Peaches) and Marc Jacobs to “Rhapsody in Blue.” He got his big break in 1988 creating tracks for French avant-garde designer Martin Margiela’s runway shows. This collaboration proved to be a major change in runway music. It’s what Sanchez refers to as “a mini revolution in fashion show soundtracks.” Since then, he’s designed the music and forged life-long relationships with fashion houses Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodriguez and Jean Paul Gaultier. On his radar for fall ‘09 are Current 93, Death in June, Annette Peacock and David Bowie.

Bradford Cox is as strikingly opinionated as he is striking in appearance. The 26 year-old singer/ songwriter was born with Marfan Syndrome, the same genetic disease which afflicted fellow rocker Joey Ramone. As a result, he stands 6’4” with the elongated physique of a young boy.That alone though does not account for the audience’s gawking. Cox is known to don muumuus and wigs while rocking out. “Sometimes you just have to throw aesthetics together, and you can’t assume anyone’s going to take any one thing from it,” he says of his band’s spaced-out ambient sound. “There’s so much going on when you’re playing. The performance is just what happens when you’re not thinking about it.” “There’s some kind of strange thing that happens to people when [we’re] up there on stage,” agrees bassist Josh Fauver. “It’s very organic. I think it just comes out of whatever kind of person you are to begin with.” Deerhunter has endured lineup changes in recent years, but Fauver, who joined the band in 2004, explained for the record that he did not replace the previous bassist, the now deceased Justin Bosworth, which is the rumor in many music circles. “I was [making] pizza at this place that [drummer, Moses Archuleta] likes to eat at, and they needed a bassist,” says Fauver. Their bassist at the time was MIA. They actually couldn’t find him for awhile, and when they did find him, he decided to stop playing with them anyway.”

result, Deerhunter’s music has evolved over the years, but at the same time retains their original style. Despite favorable reviews of their 2007 release Cryptograms, and the more widely accessible acclaim of 2008’s Microcastle, Deerhunter remains on independent label Kranky Records and has kept Atlanta as their homebase with no intentions of relocating. “Atlanta is an incredibly spread-out city, but it’s rowdy too, ”says Fauver, “We are friends with a lot of other bands in the area,but there’s not a lot of crossover, musically. There’s no one Atlanta sound because there never [can] be, which is great.”

By Melissa Tan, BFA Fashion Journalism Photos by Jeff Luger

DON’T MESS WITH THE MEZZ San Francisco boasts some pretty impressive historical concert venues, but newcomer Mezzanine has set itself apart by not only holding concerts but also offering a fully interactive experience through video, lighting and sound. Renowned as an event space with amazing acoustics, which are some of the highest quality you will find in the city, they also one-up the competition by being a clean spot you wouldn’t mind wearing yourlimited edition Air Force One's too.

“The way we record is very fast, so there’s not really enough time to listen to a lot of stuff,” says Cox. “It’s not intentional. There’s just so little time. During recording we’re just like little scientists, trying to think of things to add to the songs to make them more interesting.” So, what are these sonic scientists preparing to unleash next? “We have lots of touring, festivals and hopefully Europe in May,” says Fauver. As for upcoming albums, both Cox and Fauver maintain their adoration for the element of surprise. If their consistency in the past is any measure, maybe that’s not a bad thing.

Bosworth, who was having drug problems, was taking time off to get his life together when he died tragically in a skateboarding accident. Following the addition of Fauver on bass, Cox asked longtime friend Lockett Pundt to sign on as guitarist. As a

BEHIND A THICK CLOUD OF CIGARETTE SMOKE, BRADFORD COX IS PONTIFICATING ON THE MERITS OF TYLER PERRY. IS THE FRONTMAN OF THE ACCLAIMED ATLANTA-BASED INDIE QUARTET DEERHUNTER REALLY EXTOLLING THE VIRTUES OF SOMETHING AS NON SEQUITUR AS MADEA GOES TO JAIL? HE IS. HE SPEAKS ABOUT IT WITH THE SAME INTENSITY AS HE DOES MUSIC, HIS HOMETOWN AND THE CONTROVERSY SURROUNDING DEERHUNTER’S ROTATING DOOR OF BAND MEMBERS.

In regards to albums in the digital age, the band has been victim to Internet leaks. “We like to surprise people, so it’s kind of a let down,” says Fauver. But, for Cox it doesn’t change the creative process. “Sometimes we make demos in ways that are better than the album versions,” he adds.

Music venue keeps San Francisco’s hipsters happy and gets first prize for best hygiene. Each year, Mezz hosts Noise Pop–San Francisco’s citywide indie festival. Bands like Diplo, RZA and Deerhunter have all taken the stage. And, they’ve supported independent artists that have since blown up like hip hopper Peanut Butter Wolf and electronica duo Crystal Castles.

Located across from the historic Mint Plaza, Mezz sometimes feels more like a zeitgeist of Bay Area creativity than a physical space. This being a city in love with all the arts, the goal according to manager Travis Hellyer has always been to unite music with film, fashion, music and art. Beyond live shows, Mezz hosts a broad range of events including film screenings in conjunction with the San Francisco Film Society and fashion shows complete with DJ sets and local designer duds. But, don’t call Hellyer an overachiever; he’s just keeping his base happy. As he says, “San Franciscans are not followers– they want to create and discover.” -Melissa Tan

freaks& geeks WONDERCON, THE ANNUAL SCI-FI AND COMIC BOOK CONVENTION SERVES UP A HEALTHY HELPING OF FANBOY FARE. The big news at this year’s ‘Con was the announcement by Zac Snyder, the director of Watchmen. He said there would be a theatrical release of the director’s cut. The 210-minute cinematic spectacular based on the acclaimed graphic novel by Alan Moore and Dave Gibbons will be out this July. Following this will be the ultimate collector’s dream: a 230-minute DVD of the director’s cut interspliced with 20 minutes of animated Black Freighter footage for true Watchmen aficionados.

By Melissa Tan, BFA Fashion Journalism Photots by Daryn LaBier, MFA Photography

Every year, geeks the world over gather at San Francisco’s Moscone Center for the Mecca of all things science fiction, fantasy and comicbook: Wondercon. These fanboys and girls just don't show up in their jeans. Many come dressed as their favorite heroes (or heroines) of the moment.

Other anticipated summer releases? Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen and G.I. Joe: Rise of the Cobra due out in June and August, respectively. We’re not worried about the wait since we’ll be neck-deep in the four-hour long DVD release of Watchmen.

RUBY is iLL You know the image of the apathetic twenty-something? How about the shallow fashionista? Oakland-based poet Ruby Veridiano-Ching turns those stereotypes on their heads.

T-shirt design by Anika Brown

Interview by Anika Brown, BFA Fashion Merchandising Photo by Rodolfo Diaz, BFA Photography

Ruby Veridiano-Ching’s work delves into everything from broken hearts to social activism to pop culture. Her performances with spoken collective iLL-Literacy are an electrifying concoction of spoken word, hip-hop and live music. Their unique style has garnered attention from the likes of HBO’s Def Poetry Jam, MTV and rapper Mos Def. One eighty caught up with Veridiano-Ching fresh off of an East Coast tour. one eighty (180): What is iLL-Literacy and how did it come about? RVC: iLL-Literacy is a touring spoken word/music collective that I co-founded with my good friend Adriel Luis in college at U.C. Davis. I’ve been performing with iLL-Literacy for the past six years. 180: Touring sounds glamorous, but what’s it really like? RVC: The tour was bananas. Nine of us trekked in a van in the East Coast cold. We celebrated election night blasting Young Jeezy and Cody Chestnutt and toasted with soda at a Pennsylvania gas station. We had a show almost every night so my throat got raspier by the day. I lived out of hotel rooms and fried food. We settled in for one night only to leave and pack for the next city in the morning. It was exhausting, cold and uncomfortable. And it was one of the most beautiful experiences of my lifetime.

180: What is your favorite place and why? RVC: Paris. (Sigh, Versailles!) The trip was so unexpected. I remember sitting at home with Adriel. He suggested that we email our press kit to a school in Paris as a joke. Two weeks later, I was jumping up and down when I received the call that we were actually going! It was so surreal–the architecture, the Parisian air and the fashion. We walked from Montparnasse to the Eiffel Tower one night, and I felt like I was inside a dream. 180: Last year you published your first book of poetry, Miss Universe. What’s it about? RVC: Miss Universe is my offertory [sic] to the art of language. It documents a fly Filipina girl who finally learns how to own her wings. It also explores the politics of race between black and Asian communities, the complications of love, and admitting to the fascination of fame while [turning] a critical eye to American media. 180: What inspires you? RVC: I love people who emit positive energy and aren’t afraid to turn their vision into reality. I surround myself with people who are creating with good intentions. I get excited by artists who are constantly pushing boundaries: M.I.A., Janelle Monae, Kanye West and Andre 3000. I’m also inspired by fashion and personal style. Some garments drape so poetically. Fashion is an art form. The way designers create and enhance

silhouettes is fascinating to me. I love new ways of reinventing things that we wear everyday. I get excited when I see something made in an unexpected texture, color or cut. 180: Does fashion play a role in your performance? RVC: I know I couldn’t go out and perform if I don’t feel fly. Style is part of my personal expression so it’s an extension of my art My motto? Fashion before comfort. [Laughs] I’ll troop around in heels all day if it makes my outfit pop. 180: Do you have any favorite fashion designers? RVC: Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, Phillip Lim, Derek Lam, Monique Lhuillier, Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs. I also love streetwear designers like Lanie Alabanza-Barcenda of Hellz Bellz and adore the philosophy of Samantha Alonso—she owns Fruition a streetwear boutique in Las Vegas. 180: Complete this statement: Art is

COLOR

RVC: necessary 180: Style is

RVC: personal expression 180: Life as an artist is

salmon rose

RVC: a beautiful struggle that I would never give up For more info on this modern day Renaissance woman, visit www.rubyisill.com.

In Colored Landscapes Cross-processing film creates a panaromic of summer's sundresses

All dresses by Elena Akoulova, MFA Fashion Design Photos by Cassie Raney, MFA Photography Stylist: Mariana Rios, BFA Fashion Design Model: Alexis @ Look Hair by Tony Jones @ MNKYTHMP 40 Makeup by Aiko Chu @ MNKYTHMP

DOWNTON UK artist turned fashion illustrator extraordinaire

FOR THOSE in the world of fashion, viewing David Downton’s work can be an eye-opening experience. He is known for portraits of celebrities and supermodels like Dita Von Teese, Linda Evangelista and Lily Cole. Downton captures the moment at its most chic through his fluidity of lines and use of space. At the beginning of his career, when he was busy tackling everything from children’s books to sex manuals, venturing into fashion seemed unlikely. That all changed when the illustrator began sketching the Paris Haute Couture shows for the Financial Times. There, he formed a lasting friendship with supermodel Erin O'Connor.

With her distinctive profile, elegant proportions and natural ability to pose, O'Connor was born to be rendered and sketched. Today, his portfolio extends from the creation of fashion illustration magazine, Pourquoi Pas? to covers and editorials for publications such as Harper’s Bazaar (UK) to retail clients such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Tiffany & Co.—Shaneia Caldwell, online MFA Fashion Journalism Opposite: Erin O'Connor From top: Giambattista Valli, Thierry Mugler

All illustrations by David Downton.

“It felt so very glamorous to be sketched, I was absolutely astonished at the beauty of his art, and how he creates it.”—Dita Von Teese

“ The modern day Gruau.”—Valentino 54

“David is the ultimate illustrator. He captures every nuance in the sitters face...we had great fun with Erin O’Connor and Linda Evangelista with their portraits (for the G Hotel in Gallway) He has a history with these people. He loves drawing them and they love being drawn by him.” —Philip Treacy

WHEN TREND forecast agency Stylesight asked design students from around the world to submit the next big trend in prints, Belda Farika (MFA Merchandising) answered the call with a contrasting combination of murky greens and raspberry reds. Her daring design won first prize. One eighty applied her winning print to the accessory of the moment: tights. And, we included our own honorable mentions. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Sata Schramm, MFA

Fashion Journalism

Styled by Ashley Johnson, BFA Fashion Journalism Photos by Scott Hammel

Belda Farika, MFA Fashion Merchandising

Ruby Guerra, MFA Textile Design

Aisha Drake, BFA Textile Design

Yi Hui Wen, MFA Textile Design

Visakha Potpakorn, MFA Textile Design

Maria Korovilas, MFA Fashion and Textile Design

Visakha Potpakorn, MFA Textile Design

Hannah Paik, BFA Textile Design

Where the wild things were not! Maurice Sendak's monsters come to life in onesies

All clothes by Aurelie Martin-Chiari MFA ‘08 Fashion Design and Van Kim Le, BFA ‘08 Textile Design Photos by Luis G. Hernandez MFA Photography Illustrated by Jannika Lilja BFA Fashion Design Assistants: Claudia Paolinelli, Jackie, Drew, Natassia Silva and Desanka all School of Fashion. Models: Soojoo and Rayana Regan @ FORD Hair: Sandy Hinojosa for MNKYTHMP Makeup: Louise Zizzo and Victor Cembellin for M.A.C. 60 Makeup assistant: Sarah Pugh Dean for M.A.C.

Designer Lookbook:

Dresses made for dramatic entrances and wind machines. By: Renata Lindroos

“Appreciate the journey, and enjoy the process of getting there,” says Louisa Parris, an Academy of Art University instructor by way of London’s Central St. Martins College of Art and Design. Her collection of jet-set Grecian-inflected dresses has gone international since she won the GenArt Styles 2008 Design Award in the category of eveningwear. Parris’ spring collection is inspired by the vibrant colors and color blocking of artists such as Josef Albers and Piet Mondrian. Her retro-glamgowns are known for their drape and fluidity – perfect for the girl who wants to make an entrance in a cloud of chiffon. wants to make an entrance in a cloud of chiffon.

Photos by Michael O'Neal Model: Heather @ FORD

See her collection here and at www.louisaparris.com.

Julian & Helene Photos by: Joe Budd Art Direction: Ivan Mendoza Stylist: Michael Carbaugh, BFA Design ‘02. Styling assistant: Jungah J. Lee, BFA Fashion Design Models: Helene Johnsen @ Stars Model Management Julian @ City Models

On him: Alpaca hand-knitted coat and scarf by Scott McFarland, MFA Knitwear ‘08. White t-shirt by Uniqlo. 74 On her: Batik dress by Heather Howard, MFA Fashion Design ‘08 and Kat Janky, MFA Textile Design ‘08. Vintage oxford by Ann Demeulemeester.

76 Dress by Heather Howard and Kat Janky.

On her: Alpaca and ribbon jacket by Scott McFarland. Distressed flannel dress by Heather Howard and Kat Janky. 78 On him: Hand-knitted lace coat and thermal by Scott McFarland. Oscar de la Renta oxford shirt from Mission Thrift. Vintage white tank from Thrift Town.

Hand-knitted lace coat and thermals by Scott McFarland. Vintage oxford shirt by Oscar de la Renta from Mission Thrift. 80 Vintage white tank from Thrift Town. Creepers from Underground, Trash and Vaudeville NYC.

82 Sweaters and thermal pants by Scott McFarland. Scarf by Heather Howard and Kat Janky. Creepers by Underground, Trash and Vaudeville NYC.

On her: Dress by Heather Howard and Kat Janky. 84 On him: All knits by Scott McFarland.

Sweater and thermal pants by Scott McFarland. 86 Oxford shirt form Mission Thrift. Batik print bandana by Heather Howard and Kat Janky. Suede creeps from Underground, Trash and Vaudeville NYC.

On him: Lace and hand-knitted coat and scarf by Scott McFarland. White t-shirt by Uniqlo. 88 On her: Dress by Heather Howard. Vintage oxford by Ann Demeulemeester.

DAI FUJIWARA F A S H I O N ’ S

K E L LY

M F A

O F

T H E

F U T U R E

WETHERILLE,

F A S H I O N

J O U R N A L I S M

Portrait by Tamotsu Fujii

BY O N L I N E

M A N

ISSEY MIYAKE is a brand with nearly four decades of history. It remains one of the most innovative companies in fashion, continually blurring the lines between technology and craftsmanship. This philosophy is carried on by the line’s Creative Director, Dai Fujiwara, who in 2006 took the reins from Mr. Miyake’s successor, Naoki Takizawa. Fujiwara is, above all else, an intellectual. His brilliance can be seen in his meticulous approach to design. For this season’s spring line, Fujiwara led a team of designers and assistants on a “color hunting” expedition deep into the Amazon, where the team painstakingly matched the colors of leaves, mud and river water to swatches. But once the palette had been chosen, Fujiwara wasn’t satisfied. “After being in the jungle and feeling nature around me, I found myself wanting to go into the city and see something manmade, so we decided to go to Rio de Janeiro,” he says.

In the city, Fujiwara met with famed Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, the centigenarian whose works can be seen in cities across Europe and the Americas. Fujiwara admires Niemeyer for being able to transform a very simple idea into a strong message. Niemeyer’s influence on Fujiwara can be seen in this spring’s dresses based on the curved line sketched by the architect. For the fall 2009 menswear collection, Fujiwara was again inspired by architectural elements, specifically frames. Never one to settle for one solo theme, he combined this idea with inspiration from martial artists. “They know how to control and to keep their energy in one stroke,” says Fujiwara. “This is the same philosophy that Issey Miyake has: we try to use everything to make one product from one piece of cloth with no waste.” Here, Fujiwara is referring to A-POC, the idea that first gained him recognition as a fashion innovator back in the ‘90s.

A-POC stands for A Piece of Cloth, and is the brainchild of Fujiwara. He presented this idea to Miyake, who recognized its potential. What followed has been dubbed “the way clothes will be made in the future” by experts across the fields of design and technology. Simply put, a series of information, including measurements, colors and special finishes, is input in a computer, which then relays the information to a specialized knitting or weaving machine. The machine goes to work, and what comes out is, after a few scissor snips by the customer along faint outlines, a finished garment, completely customized to the customer. Fujiwara's attention is on the future. “A-POC cannot be used for everything. To move the technology forward, other companies need to expand on the current ideas and develop them for new uses, rather than just doing the same thing we are doing.”

“Now, it’s easy to get

—Dai Fujiwara 92

Photo by Frederique Dumoulin

clothes from a website. But this is information, not objects. When customers buy online, they tend to buy the cheapest option. The web is the future, but in its current state it is discouraging new ideas. We must change the rules.”

EYE PHOTO an exhibition.

When we asked our students to submit pix taken with their cell phones, We didn't know what to expect. Imagine our surprise when we got an overwhelming 250 images. It was hard to choose among all the poetic, weird, funny and artsy snapshots in time, but we did our best. Here are our favorites.

1st 94

A Fishermans Friend by Matilda Kahl BFA Advertising

1st 3rd

2nd 96

E-Motion by Ngoc Ngo MFA Graphic Design

Curious Sam by Anonymous. Please let us know who you are. Curious Sam by ‘Anonymous’ Please let us know.

Ocotillo by Andy Orin MFA Motion pictures and television directing MPT

Happening by Chaichat Pilun-Owad MFA Advertising Happening by Chaichat Pilun-owad MFA Advertising

100 Vision of Spring by Ryan Notch MFA Photography Vision of Spring by Ryan Notch MFA Photography

Caution by Anonymous. Please let us know who you are. Caution by ‘Anonymous’ Please let us know.

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Boogie Lights by Anonymous. Please let us know who you are. Boggie Lights by ‘Anonymous’ Please let us know.

HANG ZHOU by Roger Wang MFA Graphic Design HANGZHOU by Roger Wang MFA Grahic Design

Chic toppers that bump in the night by Laela Barnard and our milliners-in-training

Hat by Laela Barnard for Louisa Parris Photos by Luis G. Hernandez MFA Photography Assistants: Claudia Paolinelli, Jackie, Drew, Natassia Silva and Desanka all School of Fashion. Models: Christon and Devon @ FORD Hair: Sandy Hinojosa for MNKYTHMP Makeup: Louise Zizzo and Victor Cembellin for M.A.C. 104 Makeup assistant: Sarah Pugh Dean for M.A.C.

Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris

Chic toppers that bump in the night by Lela Barnard and our milliners-in-training

Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris

106 Hat by Virgil Sparks BFA Fashion Design

Hat by Stephanie Holtz

Chic toppers that bump in the night by Lela Barnard and our milliners-in-training

Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris

108 Hat by Rachel Ann Knigge BFA Fashion Design

Hat by Jae Doo Shim BFA Fashion Design

Chic toppers that bump in the night by Lela Barnard and our milliners-in-training

Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris

110 Hat by Alexandra Cohen, BFA FAshion Design BFA Fashion Design

Hat by Justin Vu BFA Fashion Design

Hat by Bruni Nigh

Hat by Laela Barnard for Louisa Parris

Photos by Rus Anson MFA Photography Assistant Stylist: Sara Boork BFA Fashion Merchandising Model: Rebecca @ FORD Hair: Jezabel Medina @ Cinta Aveda Institute Makeup: Chris Scott

112

Toile on model by Nancy DeLos Reyes BFA Fashion Design Toile on hanger by Elizabeth Prost. Architecture models: Hank Liu MA.RCH

Toile by Natalia Caririna BFA Fashion Design 114 Architecture models: Jay Zhu MA.RCH

Toile on model by Amie/ Ji Hae Yoon BFA Fashion Design Toile on hanger by Dee Larson BFA Fashion Design Architecture models: Isabelle Suwandi MA.RCH

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Toile by Jennifer Dickert BFA Fashion Design Toile by Virgil Sparks. Architecture models: Mary Telling MA.RCH

This page: Toile by: Diana Legorreta BFA Fashion Design. Architecture models: Chia-Lun Lu M.A.RCH. This page: Toile by Diana Legorreta BFA Fashion Design. Architecture models: Chia-Lun Lu MA.RCH 118 Opposite page: Toile by: Elizabth Fisher BFA Fashion Design. Architecture models:: Helen Wang M.A.RCH & Patty Guevara M.A.RCH. Opposite page: Toile by Elizabeth Fisher BFA Fashion Design. Architecture models: Helen Wang MA.RCH & Patty Guevara MA.RCH : Elizabeth

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Toile by Elizabeth Prost BFA Fashion Design. Architecture models: Chia-Lun Lu MA.RCH Toile by Jessy/Jung Ah Cho BFA Fashion Design. Architecture models: Hank Liu MA.RCH

HIGH STYLE SAN FRANCISCO'S DENISE HALE I S A N I N T E R N AT I O N A L B E S T- D R E S S E D L I S T H A L L O F F A M E I N D U C T E E AND AN ORACLE ON FASHION MY LIFE is very different from most people. I was nineteen when I had my first couture fitting at Christian Dior. In Rome, I met Roberto Capucci. When I was in Beverly Hills and married to my second husband Vincente Minnelli, there was Jimmy Galanos. And then I met couturier Gianfranco Ferré, who became one of my best friends. He was like a brother to me. And now, there is Ralph Rucci. What is very important for students to learn is the cut because honestly the fit is the most important. I admire Ralph Rucci. His line Chado has the perfect cut. If you think one part of your body doesn’t look good, cover it—and look at your back. You know the jacket should cut down here if you don’t have a great figure.

122

Hems are very important and they should always be one inch longer in the back. Most people don’t think about that. Look at what is good for you. These gladiator shoes—tell me who’s attractive in them? Only if you are five feet eight. Don’t look at fashion magazines. I don’t go to fashion shows because it’s only for photographers—not for people who actually wear the clothes.

Basically, I am very much into simplicity: simple cut and beautiful material. It’s much better to have a few dresses that are very good than plenty that don’t look good. Then, I think about the other most important thing: the shoes. You can wear very expensive clothes, but you should also invest in a nice pair of shoes. And make it elegant and timeless. But the shoes need to be walkable. When I was in Los Angeles, I saw only one model who could walk normally, in very high heels. Before you buy it, try it. This young lady, Emily Melville, her designs are what I consider beautiful. [Editor’s Note: See next page for Melville’s coat.] It’s real talent. The material is right; the cut is right; the fit is right. Everything is right.—as told to Tafen Kuo, BFA Fashion Merchandising

MNKYTHMP; Makeup: Christine Littel, BFA Fashion Merchandising; Coat by Emily Melville, '08 MFA Fashion Design and Ivanka Georgieva,'08 MFA Textile Design; Jewels, modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own. Photographer: Beata Pevny, MFA Photography; Stylist: Tafen Kuo, BFA Fashion Merchandising; Hair: Joshua Thompson @ MNKYTHMP

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DISCO KNITS Homage to Grace Jones

Clothes by Daniel Emir Armosilla MFA Fashion Knitwear Stylist: Flore Morton Photos by Jeff Dojillo MFA Photography

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A tour of the city led by fashion students at Qatar University

By Renata Lindroos and Erika Lind

QATAR and its capital Doha are unlike other parts of the Middle East. The culture here is modern and progressive. At the fashion department at Qatar University, Ali Khan teaches second and third year classes. Khan is an MFA graduate in fashion design, who completed the Academy’s online program while in Pakistan. He prepares his students for the global market by teaching 128

them one of the cardinal rules of fashion. “My message is to modernize – to show that there are ways to reflect your culture other than imitation,” says Khan. He feels both the responsibility and the honor of teaching in a country with thousands of years of history. “Modernization done the right way can actually be a tribute to your culture and not disrespect for it.”

Photos by Ali Khan and his design students: Carla Mallari, Malak Abdul Aziz, Bekita Mubarak, Selina Farouki, Ahmed Al Sayed, Esra Sharab and Sabrina Christensen

FROM DOHA

1. Qatar’s Islamic Cultural Center: Unlike Dubai, Doha is for the residents. It hasn’t been taken over by glittery skyscrapers or luxury resorts. Souq Waqif: a traditional Qatari market place with a modern twist. There are shisha lounges alongside cafes and souvenir shops. 2. The Museum of Islamic Art designed by I.M. Pei opened its doors last December with the largest collection of Islamic art in the world. 3. Fashion illustrations from Professor Khan’s class.

1. 2. 3.

ero gen ous Best legs. Best abs. Best… clavicles? Anika Brown (BFA Fashion Merchandising) adds a new category to this list of superlative body parts.

zones

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FOR MUCH of this decade, legs have been the most potent erogenous zones of the female anatomy. From skinny jeans to barely there microminis, the focus has been overwhelmingly below the waist… until now. The most influential advocate of this change is none other than Michelle Obama. America’s new sartorial icon, her fashion sense has garnered almost as many international headlines as her husband’s policies. The biggest buzz has come from the First Lady’s affinity for sleeveless and oneshoulder wonders that showcase her toned arms and shapely clavicles, the latter, which is the main subject of our exploration. The plum V-neck dress she wore to Congress was so stunning it elicited a bi-partisan “babe” whisper from one Republican congressman to another.

From Pennsylvania Avenue to the international runways, spring’s shows were a parade of oneshoulder dresses, strategically placed slits and perfectly framed necklines that drew attention not to models’ busts or their legs, but to their welldefined collarbones. The Balmain show rocked an updated ‘80s look while Balenciaga and Narciso Rodriguez were characteristically minimalist and full of sex appeal. In Milan, Frida Giannini featured vibrant, tropical prints for her “Gucci Exotica” collection. Despite the disparity in mood, all these designers (along with many of their peers) showcased the same often-overlooked area. SHIFTING EROGENOUS ZONES “Erogenous zones,” coined in the '20s by psychoanalyst J.C. Flugel, are the areas of the female body a society finds most arousing. (Other than the codpieces that popularized the 16th century, menswear has typically bypassed erogenous zones.) In his study, “The Psychology of Clothes,” the Freud disciple observed that our relationship to fashion goes beyond practicality or even vanity.

The need for clothing and adornment is equally tied to our sexuality–with style acting as a human version of a mating call. Flugel also noted that even in places where little to no clothing was worn, cultures found ways to highlight and enhance certain body parts. Polynesian tribes used elaborate, large-scale tattoos to accentuate a young woman’s thighs, buttocks, and lower back. At the age of six or seven Chinese girls began the foot binding process in order to perfect the sway of the lotus gait. Victorian aristocrats donned rib-altering corsets to make their hips and backside more prominent. In the '30s costume historian James Laver expanded on Flugel’s work to explain the rapid style changes of female dress in modern cultures. According to his “shifting erogenous zones” theory, the more we fixate on and flaunt a body part, the more we exhaust its allure. Take for example the thong-as-accessory craze: Ten years ago it was edgy and sexy to have that tiny triangle peeking out from a pair of ultra-low rise jeans. There was even a chart-topping song written about it. Now, it’s just tacky. Over time, we become desensitized to such ubiquitous erogenous zones and move on to a new body part to lust over. Laver believed that it was this fickle need for new stimuli that fueled trends in women’s fashion. “The erogenous zone,” he wrote in 1937, “is always shifting, and it is the business of fashion to pursue it, without ever catching it up.” These shifts generally occur around the same areas – breasts, hips and legs, the waist, the back, and the derriere. They manifest themselves in different ways through the years, but those are the areas consistently in play.

“Fashion’s pendulum is

now swinging in the opposite direction. Instead of flaunting every inch of the body, a more demure and more flirtatious form of sex appeal has emerged.ʼ̓ —Anika Brown

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From left: Lanvin, Alberta Ferretti, Balenciaga. Photos by Matt Lever for Redken.

CLASS OVER TRASH Obviously, the collarbone is not one of those heralded regions. In all honesty, it could be the most ignored part of the human body. So, why the sudden popularity? The main reason for the current shift is the reactionary nature of fashion. Both consumers and designers are tired of the exhibitionist aesthetic that has dominated the past few years. The barelythere trend began when Jennifer Lopez sashayed down the Grammy red carpet in her scandalous Versace dress, reached its zenith with pop tarts like Paris Hilton, and has since spiraled out of control. It’s clear a look is on its last breath when eleventh graders and O. C. housewives alike start traipsing around like Maxim cover girls.

Fashion’s pendulum is now swinging in the opposite direction. Instead of flaunting every inch of the body, a more demure and more flirtatious form of sex appeal has emerged. Women are looking for classy, not trashy; suggestive not overt styles that leave something to the imagination. Having already exhausted the standard erogenous zones, designers we forced to find another medium for this new ideal of beauty. The collarbone not only provides a fresh area to dote on, it is the perfect representation of a coy façade.

Dainty and thin, the clavicle is the epitome of femininity. It also slyly leads the eye to more alluring parts of the body thanks to its location between the face and bust. Better still, clavicles are more forgiving and universal than the other zones. You do not have to be a size zero to have a well-defined collarbone. Nor do you have to have mile-long legs or a certain ratio of curves to look great in an off-the-shoulder dress. Sexy and easy-to-wear? One can only hope the lowly collarbone’s time on fashion’s center stage lasts as long as its more titillating predecessors.

urban outfitted from Brooklyn with Love

With its anti-designer chic and post-party hair, Brooklyn artist enclave Williamsburg has become a breeding ground for avant-garde creativity. Here hipsters speak about their love and hate of the ‘burg.

Photos by Rudolfo Diaz , BFA Photography Written by Melissa Tan , BFA Fashion Journalism

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Banyi Franco, 21, is an apprentice at a tattoo parlor in Greenpoint. Born in El Salvador, she moved to Brooklyn at the age of three, and has grown up calling the borough home. "It has a sense of peace Manhattan has always yearned for–and it has a beach."

T-Shirt from Academy of Art University student store

Jean Paul Rivillas spent the first half of his life in Piedra, Colombia. For him, Brooklyn stands out as a unique melting pot of cultures. He has experienced the excitement of travel, and doesn't want to limit himself to Brooklyn. Favorite spots? None. "I feel Willyburg is 136 overrated. Too much flash and too little substance. Brooklyn is beautiful, but it's changing, and not for the better."

T-Shirt by Farah Akbik ('09 BFA ) California Apparel www.californiaapparelclothing.com

Brittany Anderson is a Brooklyn baby, born and bred in Bedstuy. She works part-time at a gallery and is a self-taught tattoo artist. Besides citing Brooklyn as the “epicenter of subculture,” her favorite thing about the hood is that the Olsen twins don’t live there.

T-Shirt by Homeroom www.homeroomclothing.com

Lenny Correa isn't actually a Brooklynite although he is a frequent visitor. "What attracted me to Brooklyn," says Correa, "is the fact that it's not Manhattan." " Though he lives in Newark, Lenny appreciates the borough with its spring foliage. 138

T-Shirt by Jennifer Jeon (‘02 MFA Textiles)

T-Shirt by Yana Galbshtein (‘06 BFA Fashion) Social Rebel www.socialrebelclothing.com

Drawn We pile on the accessories of three rising stars with 2-D baubles inspired by Paris' spring couture Photographed by Luis G. Hernandez MFA Photography Model: Stephanie @ CITY Illustrator: Jannika Lilja BFA Fashion Design Hair: Sandy Hinojosa for MNKYTHMP Makeup: Louise Zizzo and Victor Cembellin for M.A.C. Makeup assistant: Sarah Pugh Dean for M.A.C.

QUOC LIEU By: Ashley Johnson

Quoc Lieu’s (’00, BFA knitwear) self-taught fascination with jewelry design began in high school. Thanks to the Internet, he researched how to mold clay, fire it up and voila. His first piece was a vest made of wire and beads. For a formally trained knitwear designer, jewelrymaking may be an unconventional path. But, Lieu sees the two concentrations interwoven – no pun intended. Both require grace, a high level of patience and fine craftsmanship. They say, once an art student, always an art student. “Jewelry is so traditional, and I hate that,” says Lieu. “I wanted to do something different, and to inspire others that there are no rules when it comes to creating.” When inspiration strikes, he creates a mold rather than a sketch. He admits that he can’t draw at all. There’s hope for all of those croquis-impaired fashion majors out there. Patience, however, is a must. “It took me about a year to get the diamond piece right,” he says. “There’s a lot of math and measuring.” It’s a good thing, since those genius diamond cage rings are his bestsellers. Visit his site and get a sneak peak at his custom, made-to-order pieces at www.quoclieu.com. 140

Drawn earrings by Jean Paul Gaultier. Drawn pearls and bracelet by Armani Privé. Drawn chain by Givenchy.

142 All jewelry by Quoc Lieu

viv&ingrid By: Sequoia Hopkins , BFA Fashion Journalism

Indie jewelry label viv&ingrid celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. The company is a dream realized by childhood friends Vivian Wang and Ingrid Chen (MFA Merchandising). They created their business over a postcard exchange while Chen was developing her MFA thesis in the fashion merchandising program. Both ladies are obsessive about style. Wang describes hers as sophisticated boho and Chen can’t decide whether she is more sporty grandma or sexy librarian. Among their eclectic collection is a pair of gold-wirewrapped earrings with teardrops. “The Siam chandelier earrings are very of-the-moment,” says Chen. “It’s really an earring for someone with a bold sense of fashion and sense of self.” The accessory line is made domestically and many items are customized using fine materials such as sterling silver, 14kt gold and semiprecious stones. Viv&ingrid is more than just beautiful baubles. Their inspiration derives from the simple joy of giving and receiving gifts. “Our mark of success is when customers request a replacement for some viv&ingrid earrings that they’ve misplaced, but just can’t live without,” Chen says. Check out this it brand at www.vivandingrid.com. 144

Lynn Christiansen By: Katherine Han-Noggle , MFA Fashion Design Having just wrapped up a solo exhibit at San Francisco’s Velvet da Vinci gallery, Lynn Christiansen (Sculpture, BFA) is busy preparing for her next project. Christiansen shares her former boss Jeremy Scott’s penchant for the avant-garde. She names her biggest challenge as finding the balance between making jewelry that sells and her true passion, which is sculpture. Her graduate collection consisted of armor chain metal, a cue she took from her Viking ancestors. It was this unique point of view that earned her a slot at New Zealand’s World of Wearable Art contest for which she entered a dress made of chocolate and a tutu assembled with Lego’s. Her collections for sale are just as unique: gearrings are made from repurposed watch parts. There’s also a line inspired by pieces of found driftwood. Her advice to fashion students? Spend time finding your voice and inspiration. It’s paid off for her. These days, she spends most of her time in her basementcum-studio doing what she loves. Check out lynnchristiansen.com for more on her designs. 146

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Photos by Luis G. Hernandez MFA Photography assisted by Kelsey Winterkorn BFA Photography Assistant stylists: Ashley Johnson BFA Fashion journalism and Peter Nguyen BFA Fashion Design Models Sara Jane and Casey @ FORD Hair: Violette Urgitus @ MNKYTHMP Makeup: Aiko Chu @ MNKYTHMP All clothes by: Kara Laricks MFA Fashion Design

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lucite green

COLOR

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We Were There! One eighty secures a spot at Barack Obama’s inauguration.

PROTOTYPE

By Kelly Dalbeck, BFA Fashion Journalism Byline: Kelly Dalbeck

Korean-born designer and artist, Younghui Kim takes fashion into the future with her award-winning, avant-garde designs. By Mignon A. Gould, MFA Fashion Journalism

Deborah Reyes, a security guard at 180 New Montgomery, is a difficult woman to miss. Enter the building, and you’ll see her behind the front desk sporting a Barack Obama scarf. It’s approaching the hundredth day of the new president’s term in office, and she’s still wearing that scarf. In fact, she’s been sporting it since the day of the inauguration when she was only 250 feet from the podium. Jealous yet? Reyes earned her invitation after more than 2,000 hours of volunteering for the president’s campaign; a monumental moment that she was able to share with her son and mother. Reyes was one of the fifty lucky audience members who found a prize under her seat, which included the aforementioned scarf, an Obama bobble-head and an American flag. It was a crowd-pleasing trick that the event organizers took out of Oprah’s playbook. The inauguration took place one day after Martin Luther King, Jr.’s birthday and that moment of triumph over adversity moves Reyes. Like the Civil Rights leader, Obama’s presence has brought people together in a way that this country has not seen since the ‘60s. “I met with people from all over the world, who traveled hundreds of thousands of miles,” says Reyes. “[We] found ourselves sharing our suite with strangers for four days and it did not bother us. We all felt like old family friends.” More than anything, Reyes says that she is proud to have been a part of that moment in history. “As I sat in my seat, frozen, I thought MLK must have been smiling today!” 156

Occupying the gray area between fashion designer and industrial designer, Kim describes herself as an “interactive wearable media artist who uses fashion technology as a new medium.” Her first experiment with fashion technology was showcased in the performance Afrofuturistic at The Kitchen in New York, for which she designed a jacket embellished with a screen and lined with blinking lights. Kim is an instructor at Hongik University in Seoul, Korea and the cofounder of New York-based Missing Pixel (an interactive media agency). And with her co-founder Milena Berry, she invented HearWear: The Fashion of Environmental Noise Display, a groundbreaking technology transforming everyday fashion into a walking light spectacular. The concept behind HearWear is that it reacts to environmental sound with moving light patterns. It was the noises inherent to the fast-paced populous of New York City that inspired Kim. “I was in pain whenever a fire truck passed by with its really loud horn sound and then I thought about visualizing noises into lights,” she says.

HearWear designed garments and accessories use a scale of lights to reflect amplitude and the level of light depends on the level of sound so that louder noises trigger more light interaction. The HearWear collection consists of ‘70s retro wrap skirts— one with diagonal patchwork down the front, the other with five diagonal rows of lights in a vertical rainbow pattern, as well as a canvas tote bag with a strip of lights on the front. The main components that turn everyday gear into wearable electronic garments are a custom engineered printed circuit board and a sound recognition module that is powered by a micro-controller that perceives and qualifies varying noise patterns. Kim has also taken this HearWear technology a step further by creating Stir It On! where a garment reacts to any close encounter on its surface such as bumping or touching. She says the project will be the first in a social fashion media series.

Kim believes that fashion will go in a direction of improving lifestyle. She sees a promising future for fashion technology, believing the developing process will be expedited with communities of design technologists who will show better ways to integrate electronics into wearables.

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EXHIBITIONS 08_09

MEET ME AT THE CENTER OF THE EARTH: NEW WORK BY NICK CAVE MAR 28–JUL 5 “Whether Nick Cave’s [soundsuits] qualify as fashion, body art or sculpture, and almost regardless of what you ultimately think of them, they fall squarely under the heading of Must Be Seen to Be Believed.” —The New York Times Media Sponsor

This exhibition is made possible in part by: the National Endowment for the Arts and The Bloomingdale’s Fund of the Macy’s Foundation.

YBCA Exhibitions 08_09 are made possible in part by: for the Arts

; Mike Wilkins and Sheila Duignan and Members of Yerba Buena Center

PERFORMANCE

NICK CAVE SOUNDSUITS COLLABORATION W/ CHOREOGRAPHER RONALD K. BROWN THU, MAY 28, 7 PM; SAT, MAY 30–SUN, MAY 31, 3 PM // FREE W/ GALLERY ADMISSION (SPACE IS LIMITED) Celebrated choreographer Ronald K. Brown brings Nick Cave’s shimmering suits to life in three exclusive live performance events in YBCA’s galleries. Soundsuits Collaboration w/ Ronald K. Brown is made possible by the Contemporary Art Centers Network, administered by the New England Foundation for the Arts (NEFA), with major support from the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts and additional support from the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation.

NICK

CA VE U SO

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S. P UIT RINZ M ES P O: JA HOT

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YERBA BUENA CENTER FOR THE ARTS || 701 MISSION @ 3RD, SAN FRANCISCO || 415.978.ARTS OR WWW.YBCA.ORG

art + you = life amplified.

Congratulations to the class of 2009

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HOROSCOPE WHAT PLANETS HAVE IN STORE FOR YOU WHATDO DOTHE THE PLANETS HAVE IN STORE FORTHIS YOU SUMMER? SATYN HAPACH (BFA FASHION JOURNALISM) THIS SUMMER? ASTROLOGIST-IN-TRAINING SATYN WILL TELL YOU IF IT AUGURS WELL.

HAPICH WILL TELL YOU IF IT AUGURS WELL.

Illustrations by Han Yoon, BFA Illustration

VIRGO

December 22-January 19

Let go of the past trials and allow Saturn to help you realize your true potential. This solidifying planet will define your goals and give you the discipline to make it happen. Now that your path is clear, your practical nature is free to focus on health and daily routines. Do as the Romans do, and bathe your worries away. Or try a master cleanse.

Opportunities for professional growth arise when Saturn makes an appearance in your 10th house responsible for your career. This is a time for realizing your true ambitions. But remember to be sound of mind. Engage in activities that enhance your intellectual stamina like meditation, or pick up that pencil and tackle that Sudoku puzzle.

LIBRA

TAURUS

June 22-July 22

Don’t have a cosmic cow, man! Your sign’s ruler Venus has returned from retrograde just in time for your birthday. Celebrate her homecoming with an act of self-sacrifice – even if that’s sharing your Ramen stash with a starving roommate. Karma will notice and reward you with a summer romance.

The homebody in you finds security with an economic safety blanket. And the perfect mate to spend it with. Don’t let a slim wallet bum you out, Crabby. Nab a part-time job at your favorite clothing store–the killer discounts will justify your spending. The solar eclipse in Cancer makes it an especially enchanting time. Oh, those summer nights!

GEMINI

LEO

Be prepared when Jupiter, the planet of growth and expansion, enters your philosophy-ruling 9th house. Positive change will happen at breakneck speeds. It may involve business travel and opportunities abroad. The sky’s the limit. In your adventures, you’ll find your spiritual place in the universe. Check into an ashram when you get off the plane.

Love is in the air thanks to a planetary co-alignment in your 7th house of partnerships and public life. The moon in Aquarius and giant Jupiter join forces to turn this proud lion into a sex kitten. Jupiter also opens your mind to new ideas and people. So try something brazen and make the first move when it comes to seducing the opposite sex.

May 21-June 21

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CANCER

April 20-May 20

July 23-August 22

CAPRICORN

August 23-September 22

AQUARIUS

September 23-October 23

January 20-February 18

Get a hotel room, Libra. You may want to check in for the entire month as both Venus and Mars are in your 7th house of partnerships. When you are not entertaining advances from your many Casanovas, get your resume in order. There’s a promotion for you this summer if you play your cards right.

You are on high-energy overload! Try to find a creative outlet and channel it towards a greater good. Help Mother Earth and join the green movement. Perhaps that hot new fling that falls in your lap mid-spring will manifest itself into an ideal relationship. Hop on the good foot, but do the bad thing.

SCORPIO

PISCES

October 24-November 21

February 19-March 20

The Scorpion has never been one to forgive and forget, but now is the time. By releasing yourself from emotional scars, you will broaden your horizons. Watch out for backstabbers and teammates not willing to pull their own weight! Pluto, in your 3rd house of communication, makes you a smooth operator, and you easily persuade others.

Your ability to heal and inspire is one of your greatest gifts, and you are very in-tune with your spirituality. In your quest to raise the consciousness of others, don’t forget to get in touch with your own dreams. Maintain your own individuality and sensitivity, and you will be of service in a much larger way.

SAGITTARIUS

ARIES

November 22-December 22

March 21-April 19

You are feeling extra compassionate thanks to the work of Jupiter and Neptune, the planet of spirituality. This vulnerable state leaves you susceptible to allergies. Schedule a trip to the mountains for some muchneeded R&R. Your mighty inner hunter is always right at home in the woods, but don’t forget to pack the Claritin.

Cuddle up to your sweetie. He might have something monumental to ask of you. Now is also a good time to schedule informational interviews. Your take-charge nature will ensnare that dream internship. But you may not be as headstrong as you think, Aries— you are prone to injuriesto the head and face this year. Wear a helmet, my pretty.

LAST WORD

GET IN TOUCH

Ten things to do at a fashion show

Carry nail scissors to cut wire or string that attaches the chairs. Thus, if you are at the end of a row, you can pick up your chair and improve your seating.

02 03 04 05

Look eccentric: shocking pink or emerald green hair with matching rat peeking out of your bag will get you everywhere.

Wear nosebleed stilettos because only those with a limo can get around this way.

Spend your last dime on a limo and make sure your driver is smart enough to find you pronto as you exit a show.

Ignore unimportant people—they are contagious.

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Wear Chanel to Chanel, Dior to Dior, Comme to Comme. Change anywhere. Modesty is middle class.

FIX STAMP HERE

If you do not have a front row seat arrive very, very late just as the show begins - this suggests someone took your seat.

Go backstage after every show to kiss-kiss, left then right. Or kiss-kiss-kiss left, right and then left.

Find an assistant to carry your clutter. You should only carry your phone.

Never pay for anything. Send bills to Donatella, Karl or Giorgio.

ighty

By Gladys Perint Palmer, Executive Director of Fashion

Academy of Art University School of Fashion 7th Floor 180 New Montgomery San Francisco California 94105

e n

ighty

VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE COLOR + ART fashion + art + culture = 180 spring 2009

VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE fashion + art + culture = 180 spring 2009