VOLUME THREE ISSUE ONE
fashion + trips + culture = 180 SPRING 2010
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Our Tribe Forward Introducing...
The Familiar 22 26 34 38 42 46
Print Palace The Streets of San Francisco Maker’s Mark The Cult of Walter Nuthin’ but a G-chat Pretty in Green
The Trips 54 70 82 92 98 118 132 148
L’école Privée Phoebe Presidio Sauvage Future Color Bedouin Hotel California Impressions
154 156 160 167 168 172
Between Process Fashion Creeps Original Punk: Keanan Duffty La Nez Patti & Donna Portfolio
The Altered 178 180 182 184 186 188 196
Postcards from the Edge Norse Play Futurecast Horoscopes Fashion Haikus Fashion School Daily Last Word
Cover: Photographer: Shaughn Crawford, MFA Photography; Fashion Editor: Michael Carbaugh, BFA ’02 Textile Design; Makeup: Victor Cembellin for M.A.C. Cosmetics; Model: Phoebe Jade at Wee Scotty. Dress: Andrea Vence, MFA ’07 Fashion and Textile Design; Helmet: MinSun Lee, MFA ’07 Knitwear and Fashion Design. Opposite: Dress: Natalia Carorina, BFA ’09 Fashion Design and Samantha Cisneros, BFA ’09 Textile Design. Back Cover: T-shirt: Danny Roberts, BFA Fashion Illustration; Helmet: MinSun Lee; Vest: Phoebe Jade at Wee Scotty; Hosiery: The Sockman. 1
Our
While putting together this issue, a mighty wind swept through one eighty’s band of contributors. We ask them, what would it be like to be a modern nomad? Here, they tell us where, real or fictional, they would escape to.
“The island from Lord of the Flies. I’d love to live wild in my own tribe.”
who: Simon Ungless official job: Director of the School of Fashion one eighty daylighting: Discovered not one but seven fresh faces, a toy gang and a real life doll named Phoebe.
“The Land of Oz in 1978’s version of The Wiz.”
who: Collette McGruder official job: Artist one eighty daylighting: Reunited with Academy alum and one eighty’s creative director Michael Carbaugh to shoot Bedouin Bedouin, their tribute to the African tribe and their nomadic way of life.
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“Verona where Romeo and Juliet is set.”
who: Lisa Wiseman, BFA ’07 Photography official job: Photographer one eighty daylighting: Captured lovely faces and beautiful prisoners in our fashion shoot Hotel California.
“Lilliput.”
who: Tokyo official jobs: Hair and Makeup Artist for WORKGROUP and stylist at Cowboys & Angels, San Francisco one eighty daylighting: Got our cover model Phoebe gorgeous and in a moment of styling genius, clashed two leopard prints.
“The steep oak-covered Northern California hills, the towering Rocky Mountains or the hot dry Arizona desert.”
who: Kari Hulac official job: Breaking News Editor at www.insidebayarea.com one eighty daylighting: Copy edited one eighty cover-to-cover— and actually enjoyed it.
“A land where I could breathe underwater and fly in the sky.”
who: Andre Hermann, MFA ’09 Photography official job: Visual Storyteller one eighty daylighting: Found style and perspective on the streets of San Francisco.
“A full service medi-spa for cellular rejuvenation and body part enhancement.”
who: Hersha Steinbock official jobs: Full-time Instructor at Academy of Art University, and the Fashion Department’s style snark one eighty daylighting: Assigned her students in FSH 323: Fashion Forecasting to predict trends in the year 2020.
“The Land of Zero Calories.” who: Natassia Silva, BFA ’09 Fashion Merchandising official job: Freelance Stylist one eighty daylighting: Proved the existence of slow fashion: First at Kelly Malone’s Workshop and then styled a story based on the handcrafted work of knitwear designer Jonathan Baker, MFA Knitwear.
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VOLUME III wanderlust
Letter from the President
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Cheryl Locke CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Carbaugh EDITOR-AT-LARGE Dino-Ray Ramos DESIGN DIRECTOR Harry Go, BFA Web Design & New Media COPY CHIEF Kari Hulac ARTICLES EDITOR Sunny Balfour, BFA Fashion Design
One of the cornerstones of Academy of Art University’s curriculum is that it must mirror the industry. The School of Fashion exemplifies that professionalism—operating on a calendar where faculty and students work six months ahead to the next runway show. It produces graduates who are prepared for the dynamic pace of their chosen profession. It also has many of us thinking to the next season—leaving us no time to reflect on the present.
CORRESPONDENTS Enkhjargal Badamkhand, BFA Fashion Merchandising Stine Myrvang, AA Fashion Merchandising Claudia Paolinelli, MFA Fashion Journalism Polina Pfliger, AA Fashion Merchandising Alyssa Prentice, BFA Fashion Design Kalla Vieaux, BFA Fashion Journalism FASHION ASSISTANTS Gena Banducci, BFA Fashion Merchandising Erin Frederick, BFA Fashion Merchandising Miguel Martinez, BFA Fashion Merchandising Daniel Odisho, BFA Fashion Design Sophia Rojas, BFA Advertising Natassia Silva, BFA Fashion Merchandising Rebecca Vicino, BFA Fashion Journalism Danielle Wallis, BFA Fashion Merchandising Special thanks to Hanne Behrend, Robert Curry, Jennifer Jeon, Sara Kozlowski, Melissa Lai, Rhona MacKenzie, Jennifer Manzano, Flore Morton, Will Mosgrove, Bruni Nigh, Hannah Norman, Gladys Perint Palmer, Bob Rigel, Sara Shepherd, Gonbee Tanaka, Patti Cappalli Taylor, Anthony Toy, Bob Toy, Annie Van Winkle and Jeannie Wallace +++ Write us a letter and we might just put you in our next issue. one eighty magazine Academy of Art University School of Fashion San Francisco, CA 94105 oneeighty@academyart.edu www.fashionschooldaily.com
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FORWARD
fashion + trips + culture = 180 spring 2010
I am grateful that one eighty magazine resides in the now—chronicling our efforts and reflecting on them in a way that only a print publication can. Each page of one eighty celebrates the School of Fashion’s superb accomplishments: the graduates that show at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, the CFDA-recognized student body and the collaborative work within the School of Fashion and beyond. Far from being merely a yearbook, the magazine is its own mesmerizing creation. This spring issue explores the theme of wanderlust. It is organized by a classic tale of the adventurer who leaves behind the familiar, undergoes a transformation and returns enlightened and possessing a fresh perspective on home and work. In short, it is an educational model for student artists and a journey for all creatives. I would like to thank the faculty at the School of Fashion, staff, alumni and students for lending their energy and expertise to one eighty’s production. In its third issue, the magazine’s art direction, led by Michael Carbaugh, an alumnus of the school and current instructor, has never been more beautiful. The visuals lend themselves to the introspection we encourage in all our students. I hope this volume will serve as a benchmark for one eighty magazines to come. Sincerely,
Elisa Stephens President 5
introducing... an elite force of models.
These Marilyns spring from the
imagination of Shawn Hsu, MFA ’09
Graphic Design. Follow their supreme adventures. Photographer: Shawn Hsu
VOLANS height: 8” waist: 4” chest: 5” 6
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sweater: Bethany Meuleners, MFA ’09 Knitwear 8
DADA height: 11” waist: 4.75” chest: 5.5” 9
sweater: Jeanette An, MFA Knitwear 10
SHARK height: 11.5” waist: 5.75” chest: 6.5” 11
sweater: Jonathan Baker, MFA Knitwear 12
CETUS height: 14” waist: 6” chest: 8.5” 13
sweater: Steven Lai, MFA ’09 Knitwear 14
LING height: 11” waist: 4.75” chest: 5.5” 15
sweater: Jeanette An, MFA Knitwear 16
MAX height: 12” waist: 4.5” chest: 6.5” 17
sweater: Jonathan Baker, MFA Knitwear 18
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rThe Familiarr
Print Palace
Larkin Street, the stomping grounds of
San Francisco’s finest transvestite hookers
offers another vice: A sanctuary for print addicts called the Magazine, the only used magazine emporium left in the city.
By Enkhjargal Badamkhand, BFA Fashion Merchandising, and Sunny Joy Balfour, BFA Fashion Design. Photographer: Enkhjargal Badamkhand. 22
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R obert Mainardi andTrent Dunphy began slinging magazines in 1973. Past the comic and porn collections is the gate to fashion heaven: A back room stacked to the ceiling with
publications dating back to 1901, including a landslide of vintage Vogues. 180: What was the scene like when you opened?
Robert Mainardi: We were wildly popular in the first 10 years, especially from the late ‘60s through the ‘70s. Then libraries and institutions got rid of actual magazines in the ‘80s, and it all went to technology.
180: Why not go digital yourself?
RM: We don’t use PCs here. Our entire inventory is handwritten. If something comes in, we write it down and when it sells we erase it, the old-fashioned way. We don’t feel like changing the system because it works for us.
180: What are your all time best sellers?
RM: Life has always been popular, but nothing is like Playboy. It’s phenomenal.
saucer related titles; and boy, they’re serious. Art Deco and French Nouveau are popular nowadays. Hot rod cars and professional wrestling have their diehard fans. 180: This is a great place for research.
RM: Art students come for inspiration with old stock photos and snapshots for collages. After all, there are only seven to eight stores like us nationwide. We keep two copies of each (magazine) in stock. If a third or fourth comes in, we sell it in front for 35 cents. We have some good cheap thrills.
180: That’s information we didn’t want to leak out. What else do you sell?
RM: Baggage labels, airline tickets, restaurant, café menus, theater programs. Also catalogs, 180: Who sells in fashion? travel brochures, instruction manuals and sports RM: Kate Moss always sells. Also Naomi Camptickets. bell. Marilyn Monroe used to sell very well but 180: Basically anything printed. not so much now. Michael Jackson is definitely RM: Exactly. We also carry videotapes and big now. We keep everyone’s stash, from Barbra convert videotapes to DVDs upstairs. Streisand to architect Frank Lloyd Wright. I personally love Heidi Klum. 180: Do you live here?
180: Any strange trends going on right now?
RM: There are some people collecting flying
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RM: No. Magazines live here. 25
Style Editors: Photographer:
’09 Photography André Hermann, MFA
ion Design Daniel Odisho, BFA Fash Rebecca Vicino, BFA Fashion Journalism
Name: Peter Age: 28 Origin: San Francisco, CA Occupation: Student Style Icon: Jared Leto What’s your favorite thing to do in the city? Hang out with friends at Blow Up Location: Near the former Diesel store at Kearny and Grant streets
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Name: Mort Age: 75 Origin: Philadelphia, PA Occupation: Retiree Favorite thing about San Francisco: The diversity of people Favorite item of clothing: My tweed jacket Location: Cable car turnaround at Powell Street
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Name: Stef Bambi Age: 19 Origin: Melbourne, Australia Occupation: Future student Favorite thing about San Francisco: It’s the most European city in the U.S., and it’s unique. It has so much culture. Who is your style icon? Megan Fox—on the cover of Nylon What do you feel most confident in? Doc Marten’s Location: Cable car turnaround at Powell Street
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Name: Wei Dai and Haoji Zhou Age: Both 22 Origin: Beijing, China Occupation: Fashion Student Location: Opposite the Apple Store at Stockton and Ellis streets
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Name: Dylan Age: 27 Origin: San Francisco, CA Works at: The Contemporary Jewish Museum Favorite thing about San Francisco: It’s easy to get around and there’s so many different things to do. Location: MUNI stop on Market Street across from the Old Navy
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Name: Mimi Bucholz Age: 23 Origin: France Favorite designer: Dries Van Noten What do you feel most comfortable in? A jean jacket What is different about San Francisco when compared to Paris? It’s more laid back. Here people are different and easygoing. Location: Maiden Lane 33
Maker’s Mark
KELLY MALONE, the woman behind
San Francisco’s cultish Indie Mart, invites
one eighty to tour her workshop. Our correspondent Natassia Silva puts on her Urban Outfitters’ finest to talk to the city’s hipster high priestess of the DIY.
Photographer: Shaughn Crawford, MFA Photography; stylist: Natassia Silva, BFA ’09 Fashion Merchandising. 35
180: Can you tell me about the debut of Indie Mart?
Malone grew up in Philadelphia and began her career styling runway
Kelly Malone: The first Indie Mart was held in spring 2007 in the backyard of my Mission home. I got 30 of my friends who made stuff [and served] BBQ and drinks. We used my spider web-filled shed as the changing room. I made a bunch of fliers and promoted at local dive bars, Attic and The Phone Booth. [There were] roughly 300 people at the first event. I knew I couldn’t do this at my home anymore.
but she was quickly turned off by the industry’s cattiness.
180: You recently held an Indie Mart and workshop at the Treasure Island Music Festival. How did that work out?
If she’s not constructing a chandelier of secondhand light bulbs,
Kelly Malone, 35, might be running a screen-printing class or sewing a dress for herself.
shows for Victoria’s Secret. It was her dream job,
She moved to San Francisco in 2005 to become
a visual stylist for the Gap flagship
and, later, to open a vintage boutique called Still Life.
Despite having to undergo chemotherapy for ovarian cancer,
in 2007 she managed to introduce
Indie Mart and a new breed of DIY workshops to the city’s collective art conscious.
For more information: Indie Mart www.indie-mart.com; Workshop www.workshopsf.org
KM: It was our second year at the Treasure Island Music Festival. We had vendors, screenprinting shirts and held a DIY workshop on making beer coozies. Some cool guy came by the booth and bought a shirt. Later on my friend told me it was one of the guys from TV on the Radio. I had no idea.
180: What happened to your vintage boutique Still Life?
drinks in the Mixology class. We’re also going to do budget gourmet foodie lessons but with a toaster oven. I also hold Indie Business classes. I mentor designers and give them pointers on how to market themselves. 180: You also make accessories.
KM: I make hidden switchblade jewelry that is really hard for me to source since they’re vintage. I also make fun endless scarves that I call Cosby scarves. I make them out of old sweaters that remind me of Bill Cosby.
180: Any tips for shopping thrift stores?
KM: Every Monday I go to the Salvation Army. I’m at Urban Ore at least once a week. When I was building the workshop I was there almost every day out of the week. I [also] like thrifting in Reno and Alameda.
180: Favorite personal collections?
KM: I have a BB gun collection. I want to spray paint the BB guns gold and arrange them on my kitchen wall.
KM: After being in a store space all day, I got bored. I couldn’t sit still. This led me to starting the workshop, where I do something different everyday. If I teach the same DIY class, it’s okay because at least it’s different people.
180: Current obsession?
180: What type of classes are offered at the workshops?
180: Most cherished possession?
KM: Sewing 101, Mixology and Rock‘n’Roll Sewing for Dudes to name a few. I play Black Sabbath and teach the guys how to sew a secret condom pocket into their pillowcase, hem jeans and do a lazy patch for crotch holes. Kitty, the bartender from NOPA, teaches how to make
KM: Skeleton keys. I want to do an entire wall of just skeleton keys. KM: My antelope head hanging on my wall in the dining space. My friend and I went on a road trip through Alabama. The antelope head was the first thing I found. We named him Leon.
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Walter Van Beirendonck
The Cult of Walter
Kalla Vieaux, BFA ’10 Fashion Journalism, explores the self-proclaimed aesthetic terrorist’s Bay Area fan base.
emerged onto the fashion scene in the ’80s from Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, making a name for himself as one of six protégés later to become known as the Antwerp Six. In the ’90s, his label Wild and Lethal Trash! (W.&.L.T.), shocked the fashion world with its references to cyborgs and fetish style. In his shows, attended by more than 3,000, Walter has outfitted 100 male models in latex coveralls; sent out pantsuits bedazzled with holograms; and incorporated many a gas mask and S&M paraphernalia. Based in Antwerp where he now teaches at his alma mater, Walter remains unapologetically avant-garde. His garish designs have attracted a cult following; one of which is in the San Francisco Bay Area. Only two stores in North America, American Rag Cie in Los Angeles and Modern Appealing Clothing (MAC) in San Francisco, are registered to carry the Belgian designer. Ben Ospital, co-owner of MAC, has sold the brand for a decade and says it continues to gain devout fans. Ben attributes Walter’s success in the area to his unique aesthetic. “Most clothes you wear to keep warm,” says Ben. “Walter’s clothes you wear because they’re fun, humorous and they make you smile.” He nods to a rack full of Walter’s sculptural knitwear from his Glow collection. This rack of experimental fashion, starting at $195 for a T-shirt, includes voodoo, Play-Doh, Polynesian and raver references. Those smiling in Walter’s gear include actor and comedian Robin Williams, conservative corporate office workers and everyday people with a sense of humor. Jefery Jones, a merchandising major at Academy of Art University, is one such fan. Initially, he was struck by the bold combinations of W.&.L.T.’s color and graphic impact. “I felt like I was trying to decipher glyphs that were simultaneously ancient and futuristic,” says Jefery. As he sunk deeper into the devout cult of Walter, his collection grew to 50 pieces. He usually wears one piece daily.
Portrait: Ronald Stoops; store front in Antwerp (opposite) both courtesy of Walter Van Beirendonck. 39
“Practically speaking, my next purchase will likely be the knit sweater with the monster face made from knitted piping with the matching tee to go under it and the green sweater with the pink monster face from the Glow collection.” His wish list also includes an inflatable muscle jacket from the Explicit collection, a replacement one he tore, a green beard from Glow, a bag made for Barcelona Cycle Chic and the public service uniforms made for the city of Antwerp. “Wearing Walter makes me feel like a magic-symbol-wielding shaman. I feel expressive and just plain happy,” says Jefery. Franklin Melendez, fashion blogger and curator at the Berkeley Art Museum, is striving to bring Walter, literally, to the Bay Area. “We’re working to put a new sculpture in each room, and we want to collaborate with Walter on restaging the Summer 2010 show,” says Franklin. “Walter showed the collection on regular men instead of casting models, and we think it would be a good way to involve the community.”
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Franklin credits him with influencing many of today’s artists and performers, including M.I.A. and Santogold. “I grew up in the ’90s. Those were my formative fashion moments—maybe that’s not a good thing,” jokes Franklin. “But Walter’s collections have a ’90s thing going on, very influenced by the club scene. There’s also a lot of tribalism in the collections.” As Franklin works to get Walter and his work into the museum, and Jef aspires to author a Walterbased book (or at least curate a collection grand enough for an exhibit of his own), Ben continues to carry the collection at San Francisco’s MAC boutique. Aside from nurturing the tribal vibe in his collections, Walter seems to be conditioning members halfway across the globe for a tribe of his own. Lookbook images courtesy of Walter Van Beirendonck.
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Nuthin’ but a G-chat
One eighty rides a rail with skater and art director of FTC Worldwide, Graham James, BFA ’97 Advertising. By Sunny Balfour, BFA Fashion Design
SUNNY: so it’s gonna be brief i know you’re busy GRAHAM: ok no prob SUNNY: what was your major at the Academy? GRAHAM: art direction SUNNY: is that a major? GRAHAM: ha ha. advertising SUNNY: really? i saw the skateboard deck you did for AIGA (American Institute of Graphic Arts). you’re a great artist GRAHAM: oh thank you. i’ve been practicing my hand lettering for a lil’ bit. i’m fascinated by it. SUNNY: what year did you graduate? GRAHAM: ’97 Sunny: damn. how old are you? haha don’t answer that GRAHAM: 37 SUNNY: men peak at 50 GRAHAM: oh great SUNNY: what projects are you currently working on? GRAHAM: FTC spring/summer 2010 catalog. just finished a Burton/FTC jacket, a Lakai shoe project, fall/winter 2010 clothing line GRAHAM: and my own project SUNNY: do you do the line alone? GRAHAM: yes. separate from FTC SUNNY: is it clothing? GRAHAM: yes SUNNY: sweet. Screenshot (opposite) from www.ftcsf.com.
GRAHAM: still figuring it out. SUNNY: i wanna put a pic of the deck u did for AIGA in one eighty (pictured on the next page). GRAHAM: someone purchased the deck at the show. wooo! GRAHAM: let me see if I can get something. SUNNY: you’re the greatest GRAHAM: :) SUNNY: do u credit Academy at all for your success? GRAHAM: of course. they landed me my first job. i credit it to the Spring Show SUNNY: what did you present in the show? GRAHAM: portfolio of ads. funny. i won an award for best copywriter. that’s where McCann Erickson found me. (ad agency) SUNNY: how did you end up at FTC? GRAHAM: i used to skate for them in the late ’80s. did my first graphic tee with them. SUNNY: ah! get me a photo of that! GRAHAM: shoot i will try and look for it. i think it was my road that led me to FTC. I lost my job— freelanced at Banana Republic then FTC popped up in my life again and the rest is history. i’ve been lucky to do what I love SUNNY: how long you been at FTC? GRAHAM: 5 years SUNNY: why don’t you guys have the new Ed Templetons right now? GRAHAM: ask our manager haha
SUNNY: what’s hot in skate gear for spring? is allover print finally dead? GRAHAM: oh yeh. dead as a door nail. i’m into clean, classic, durable clothing I try and hide my flash with subtlety like what I did on the Burton jacket, black outside/blue smoky inside. SUNNY: Pantone says turquoise is the color for 2010 GRAHAM: word. can’t say we’ll have too much turq going on SUNNY: well smoky blue is the skater turq GRAHAM: you’re right. ha. SUNNY: what about your artist/ripster lifestyle? GRAHAM: ripster – i like that. better than hipster SUNNY: never that GRAHAM: hmmm i’m striving to be a solid designer from start to finish, it’s easy to draw something up but to have it executed properly is the key. SUNNY: i found your blog The Life of Graham James very informative
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GRAHAM: oh thanks. just trying to get more visibility of it SUNNY: you remind me of Joey Pepper (a proskater) GRAHAM: haha i just photographed him for our catalog SUNNY: he was my friend in sac many years ago GRAHAM: oh word SUNNY: yeah good times SUNNY: he’s like korean and white? GRAHAM: no. he’s half vietnamese SUNNY: like you? GRAHAM: no i’m half chinese and half german. SUNNY: does your personal clothing line have a name? GRAHAM: man I don’t know if i should put it out yet SUNNY: thought you might wanna showcase it at NY fashion week GRAHAM: ughhh I wish SUNNY: that’s where one eighty magazine is gonna drop. GRAHAM: wooo!
Pretty in
Green Eco-friendly style should
mean punk DIY and shopping
at thrift stores. But, in San Francisco,
slaves to consumerism that we are, green often means buying new stuff
that’s responsibly designed and sourced.
Claudia Paolinelli, MFA Fashion
Journalism, shares her green
directory with us.
Photographer: Allison Harrell, MFA Photography.
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ECO CITIZEN
“Dressing the world in consciousness” is owner Joslin Van Arsdale’s mission. The shop is stocked with organic frocks from labels such as Prairie Underground and Linda Loudermilk and organic totes designed by Academy’s textile students. 1478 Vallejo St., between Larkin and Polk streets www.ecocitizenonline.com
A HAPPY PLANET
Since 1996, this boutique in the Sunset has been an eco-friendly alternative to Sleep Train, home of the annoying jingle. The store is a showroom where customers are welcome to test out organic mattresses. 4501 Irving St., between 46th and 47th avenues www.ahappyplanet.com
LITTLE OTSU
Japanese for strange, stationery boutique Otsu is stocked with quirky goods like hand-drawn calendars and limited-edition postcards. Items are vegan and printed on 100 percent post-consumer recycled paper. 849 Valencia St., between 19th and 20th streets www.littleotsu.com
LOFT 1513
Larissa Verdussen uses dance as her inspiration when designing clothes for her Noe Valley boutique. She reuses materials and incorporates sustainable fabrics whenever possible with a percentage of the sales going to research institutions helping Third World countries. 1513 Church St., between 27th and Duncan streets www.loft1513.com
SPRING
The open floor plan gives off a therapeutic vibe as soon as you walk in. Offering everything from bamboo sheets to natural countertop cleansers, Spring makes your home clean, spiffy and non-toxic. 2162 Polk St., between Vallejo and Broadway www.springhome.com Opposite from top left: Eco Citizen; Spring; Green Home Center; A Happy Planet; Spring. 49
GRAVEL & GOLD
This ’70s throwback boutique in the heart of the Mission embraces all things folksy. Come for the hand-loomed thermals, vintage kimonos and flea market trinkets and stay for the craft workshops offered on everything from home pickling to fragrance design. 3266 21st St. between Bartlett and Lexington streets www.gravelandgold.com
CLARY SAGE ORGANICS
Clary Sage Organics results from owners Patti Cazzato and Daniel Kalish’s shared interest in living an ecologically responsible life. The store offers organic skin care products, wellness services, nutrition advice and yoga merchandise from brands including Prana and Blue Canoe. 2241 Fillmore St., between Clay and Sacramento www.clarysageorganics.com
GREEN HOME CENTER
A cross between California Closets and Home Depot, the team at the Green Home Center offers their green design knowledge for home remodeling. Their team connects customers to environmentally friendly vendors such as Beronio, a local lumber yard that sells wood flooring certified by the Forest Stewardship Council. 1812 Polk St., between Jackson and Washington streets www.thegreenhomecenter.net
RAG (Residents Apparel Gallery)
Owner Blakely Bass vets local designers and if you pass her environmental screening, she lets you rent a rack in her apparel gallery. Find your next ironic T-shirt or indie romper here and you’ll know that it was created with an eye to reducing greenhouse gases and carbon footprints. 541 Octavia St., between Grove and Ivy streets www.ragsf.com
Opposite from top left: Eco Citizen; Eco Citizen; Green Home Center; Little Otsu; Green Home Center. 50
rThe Tripsr
L’ÉCOLEprivée Photographer: Elena Zhukova, MFA Photography Fashion Editor: Michael Carbaugh, BFA ’02 Textile Design Photo Assistants: Michael Nieland, MFA Photography; Aleksey Bochkovsly; Stylist Assistants: Danielle Wallis, BFA Fashion Merchandising and Erin Frederick, BFA Fashion Merchandising Model: Mackenzie at Stars Model Management
L’ÉCOLEprivée (spread 2) Black Lurex bonded pullover: Amanda Cleary, MFA ’09 Fashion Design; black Lurex bonded skirt: Amanda Cleary; white shirt: Mission Thrift; vintage tie: pure clothing, Alameda Flea Market; black felt hat: A.C.T. (spread 3) Vintage ivory lace surplice, collar worn as necklace and felt conical hat: A.C.T.; ivory mock turtleneck: Clothes Contact; dotted tulle: Scrap. (spread 4) Vintage ivory cotton lace surplice: A.C.T.; white shirt: Mission Thrift; ivory taffeta skirt: vintage Sandoval; white tights: Hue; pewter shoes: TicTacToes. (spread 5) Horsehair and silk face dress: Jie Pan MFA, ’09 Fashion Design; white shirt: Mission Thrift; ivory felt hat: A.C.T. (spread 6 right) Black wool, silver Lurex, and horsehair dress: Jie Pan; white shirt: Mission Thrift; black felt hat: A.C.T. (spread 7) Vintage black rayon maid’s blouse with lace collar: A.C.T.; black nylon and lace shorts: Orchard St, NY, NY; ring hat: Gonbee Tanaka, 3D Coordinator; vintage white sheer gloves: A.C.T.; pewter shoes: TicTacToes. (Opposite) Black Lurex bonded pullover: Amanda Cleary; white shirt: Mission Thrift; black rubber hat: A.C.T.; pewter shoes: TicTacToes. 68
PHOTOGRAPHER: SHAUGHN CRAWFORD, MFA PHOTOGRAPHY; FASHION EDITOR: SIMON UNGLESS, DIRECTOR OF FASHION; TOKYO HAIR & MAKEUP FOR WORKGROUP-LTD.COM; MODEL: PHOEBE JADE AT WEE SCOTTY
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(pg. 71) Helmet: MinSun Lee, MFA ’07 Knitwear and Fashion Design; leggings: Micaela Greg by Marie Potesta, MFA ’08 Knitwear and Fashion Design, www.micaelagreg.com; shoes: Marie Potesta; tank: H&M; T-shirt: Gap. (pg. 72) T-shirt: vintage Alexander McQueen; jacket: stylist’s own; tank: Gap; hosiery: The Sockman; shoes: Marie Potesta. (pg. 74) Tartan jacket: Robert Curry, 3D Design Instructor; Dress: Natalia Carorina, BFA ’09 Fashion Design and Samantha Cisneros, BFA ’09 Textile Design; leggings: Micaela Greg www.micaelagreg.com. (pg. 75) Hat: Bruni Nigh, Millinery Instructor; shirt: vintage Junya Watanabe; dress: Natalia Carorina and Samantha Cisneros. (pg. 76) Shirt: vintage Junya Watanabe; T-shirt: Gap; dress: Natalia Carorina; hat: Yu-Shin Kim, MFA ’07 Knitwear and Fashion Design. (pg. 78) Undershirt: Phoebe Jade at Wee Scotty; Shirt: stylist’s own; knit dress: Christina Cundari, BFA ’10 Knitwear. (pg. 79) Dress: Sun Young Youn MFA Fashion Design; T-shirt: Gap; crystal and mink crown: Hannah Norman Fashion Accessory Instructor; ring: stylist’s own. (Opposite) Dress: Dejchat Sriyoopum, MFA Fashion Design; naval visor hat: stylist’s own; hosiery: The Sockman; Nike sneakers: model’s own. 80
Photographers: Michael Carbaugh, BFA ’02 Textile Design and Ivan Mendoza; Model: Benjamin Ford Salz at Stars Model Management.
Bomber jacket and cotton tank: Thrift Town; cotton blazer: Bangchong Douangphrachanh, MFA ’08 Menswear Design; pants: Dahae Kim, BFA ’09 Menswear Design.
Wool gaberdine trouser: Dahae Kim; toile coat: Bangchong Douangphrachanh; Oxford shirt: Heather Howard, MFA ’09 Fashion Design.
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Poncho: Thrift Town; tie-dyed T-shirt: Mission Thrift; taupe wool gaberdine trouser: Brenna Dean, MFA ’08 Menswear Design.
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Sandwashed silk quilted bomber jacket: Thrift Town; cotton blazer: Bangchong Douangphrachanh; cotton over-dyed tank: Thrift Town; wool gaberine trouser: Dahae Kim.
Overdyed combo cable cardigan and linen high-waisted trouser: Brenna Dean; teal mercerized cotton polo: Thrift Town.
Draped wool jersey cardigan: Robert Curry, 3D Fashion Design Instructor; Lurex T-shirt: Thrift Town; wide leg sandwashed silk trouser: Sandoval.
Cotton coat: Bangchong Douangphrachanh; Oxford shirt: Heather Howard.
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Polar fleece cardigan: Scott Ian McFarland, MFA ’09 Fashion and Knitwear Design; army-issue tank and trouser: Kaplan’s Army Surplus.
SAUVAGE Photographer: Rus Anson, MFA Photography Fashion Editor: Jonathan Kyle Farmer
Hair: Joshua Thompson and Tony Jones; Makeup: Kimmee Park for M.A.C. Cosmetics; Stylist Assistants: Lauren Haut, BFA Fashion Design; Natalia Jhete, BFA Fashion Design; Ah Joo Lee, BFA Fashion Design; Jannika Lilja, BFA Fashion Design; Leah Mendelson, BFA Fashion Design; Claudia Paolinelli, MFA Fashion Journalism; Drew Williams, BFA Fashion Design; Lindsay Woods, BFA Fashion; Models: Gwen and Christina at Elite.
Clothes:
(pg. 94) Tulle coat: Dao Thabthimkoson, BFA ’09 Fashion Design; enamel shoulder piece: Janet Rim, BFA Fine Art Sculpture. (pg. 95) Felt wool circle skirt: Elizabeth Proust, BFA ’09 Fashion Design; scarves worn as bandeau and headwrap: stylist’s own;
necklaces and bangles: The Bead Store, San Francisco; diamond paper earrings: Natalia Jhete.
(pg. 96) Comme des Garçons floral print bolero: Barneys New York; skirt: Nancy de los Reyes, BFA ’09 Fashion Design;
paper earrings: Natalia Jhete; necklaces and bangles: The Bead Store, San Francisco.
(pg. 97) Alexander Wang dress: Barneys New York; paper collaged collar: Jannika Lilja and Leah Mendelson.
PHOTOGRAPHER: SHAUGHN CRAWFORD, MFA PHOTOGRAPHY; PHOTO ASSISTANT: ADRIENNE HALLHAUER, MFA PHOTOGRAPHY; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: DANIEL WATSON; FASHION EDITOR: MICHAEL CARBAUGH, BFA ’02 TEXTILE DESIGN; STYLIST ASSISTANTS: DANIELLE WALLIS, BFA FASHION MERCHANDISING AND ERIN FREDERICK, BFA FASHION MERCHANDISING; HAIR: SU YOUNG KIM FOR CINTA AVEDA INSTITUTE; MAKEUP: VICTOR CEMBELLIN FOR M.A.C. COSMETICS; MODEL: MACKENZIE AT STARS MODEL MANAGEMENT.
Fuchsia and multi-color jacquard knitted dress with nude power mesh insert: Marina Popska MFA ’09 Fashion and Knitwear Design.
Mint multi-color jacquard knitted dress: Marina Popska. 102
Kaleidoscope dress with mustard trims: Sawanya Jomthepmala, MFA ’09 Fashion and Textile Design; fuchsia and multi-color jacquard knitted dress with nude power mesh insert: Marina Popska.
Turquoise tank with ivory insets: Kara Sennett, MFA ’09 Fashion Design; kaleidescope pink and blue printed skirt: Sawanya Jomthepmala; sunglasses: Clothes Contact, San Francisco.
Mint multi-color jacquard tank dress: Marina Popska.
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White and tangerine print muscle shirt and v-skirt: Sawanya Jomthepmala. 112
Multi-color jacquard knitted dress with nude power mesh insert (top) and green multi-color jacquard knitted: Marina Popska. 114
Mustard silk faille vest, salmon and ivory wool jersey bodysuit, grey wool and polyurethane miniskirt: Kara Sennett.
PHOTOGRAPHER: COLLETTE MCGRUDER, BFA PHOTOGRAPHY; FASHION EDITOR: MICHAEL CARBAUGH, BFA ’02 TEXTILE DESIGN; PHOTO ASSISTANT: DAJAIN SALONE; MODEL: PAUL VARGAS, BFA ANIMATION.
Cerulean and yellow plaid taffeta coat: Brittney Major, MFA ’09 Fashion Design; lime green mesh and plaid cowl neck kaftan: Yu Qi Tan, BFA ’09 Fashion Design; multi-color hemp hat: The Love of Ganesha.
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Salmon plaid taffeta jacket with ruffle and glass buttons: Brittney Major; cotton bandanna: Nairobi flea market; vintage Sienna J. Peterman kaftan: Anna Newman, Alameda Flea Market; leather sandal (opposite): Grammercy Thrift, NY, NY.
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Salmon short sleeve taffeta coat dress, cerulean plaid cotton shirt: Brittney Major; linen trouser (opposite): vintage Dries Van Noten; over-dyed cotton bandanna: Nairobi flea market; Mirrored ski shades: Mission Thrift.
Black and gold Lurex tuxedo jacket: Mission Thrift; pink mesh, plaid and neoprene kaftan: Yu Qi Tan; burgundy and black embroidered scarf: Guerrisol, Paris; brown leather huarache: American Vintage, Los Angeles.
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Burgundy silk kaftan: Community Thrift, San Francisco; key-encrusted sweater: Alameda Flea Market; plaid skate pants (opposite): Yu Qi Tan.
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Pink and black plaid kaftan: Yu Qi Tan; Masai cotton wrap and beaded necklace: Nairobi flea market.
Photographer: Lisa Wiseman, BFA ’07 Photography Fashion Editor: Simon Ungless, Director of Fashion Photo Assistant: Josh LaCunha
Stylist Assistants: Harry Go, BFA Web Design & New Media; Miguel Martinez, BFA Fashion Merchandising; Sophia Rojas, BFA Advertising; Natassia Silva, BFA ’09 Fashion Merchandising Hair and Makeup: Sherrie Long Models: Dylan at FORD; Phebe and Sarah at Passport.
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138
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(pg. 133) Vintage velvet beaded top: stylist’s own. (pg. 134) From left: gown: Lauren Myers, MFA Fashion Design; blazer, shirt and slacks: Paul Smith at Paul Smith, San Francisco; loafers: Paul Smith at Gimme Shoes; gown: Michael Evans, MFA Fashion Design. (pg. 136) Shoulder piece: Oshrat Ben-Isaac, BFA ’07 Fashion Design; shirt: stylist’s own. (pg. 139) Gown: Michael Evans. (pg. 140) Sterling mask: Lynn Christiansen, BFA Fine Art Sculpture, www.lynnchristiansen.com; (pg. 141) shirt: vintage Comme des Garçons; scarf: vintage Ann Demeulemeester; leggings: Micaela Greg by Marie Potesta, MFA ’08 Knitwear and Fashion Design, www.micaelagreg.com. (pg. 143) Gown: Robert Curry, 3D Design Instructor; bolero: Yves Saint Laurent at Neiman Marcus; necklace worn as bracelet: Hannah Norman, Fashion Accessory Instructor. (pg. 144) Dress: Yves Saint Laurent at Neiman Marcus; fur cuffs: stylist’s own. (Opposite) Sterling chainmail halter: Lynn Christiansen, www.lynnchristiansen.com; tuxedo jacket: stylist’s own. 146
IMPRES
SIONS
Photography and
Post-production Designer:
Daryn LaBier, MFA Photography
Camille Bucu, BFA Textile Design
Kaleo Magdaro, BFA Textile Design
Hayley Richardson, BFA Textile Design, second prize in Stylesight’s F/W ’10 Student Print Competition
Sarah Rose, BFA Textile Design
Stylist: Gena Banducci, BFA Fashion Merchandising; Photo Assistants: Michael Nieland, MFA Photography; Hyun Jung Song; Adrian Hallauer, MFA Photography; Hair: Tony Jones at Bibbo; Makeup: Stephanie at Cinta Aveda Institute; Model: Madeline at FORD.
Hayley Richardson, BFA Textile Design
Hayley Richardson, BFA Textile Design
Between
PROCESS Photographer: Allison Harrell, MFA Photography Photo Assistant: Wells Yang, MFA Photography Stylist: Natassia Silva, BFA ’09 Fashion Merchandising Sweater and Instructions: Jonathan Baker, MFA Knitwear
Yarn
Making the swatch
Weight
Finished garment
Picking the fiber
Tools
Calculations
Per cm 2
Blending the fiber into a cord
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Fashion Creeps
Grotesque is in for spring. Sara Boork, BFA Fashion Merchandising, explains why the fashion-forward may want to run out and get pet tarantulas.
Assorted creatures from science fiction and fantasy have infiltrated spring runways. At the forefront of this monsters-to-runway trend is Alexander McQueen, whose collection evokes a scene from Ridley Scott’s Alien (1979). Brandishing exoskeleton prints and iridescent scales, the models stepped into a world of underwater extraterrestrials. But it was the shoes that drew the most attention. Their exaggerated shapes and heights resembled the appendages and menacing head of Scott’s alien queen. Other runways were also teeming with creepy crawlers. Echoing famous arachnid movies such as Jack Arnold’s Tarantula (1956) were the cobweb designs of London-based Mark Fast, who received attention for his decision to cast three plus-size models in his show. Fast knits everything by hand on a domestic machine to create an intricate look. Rodarte also tangled with spidery patterns with their criss-cross and tasseled deconstructed dresses. Gareth Pugh took a cue from one of the biggest film franchises of the last decade: Lord of the Rings. His Fall 2008 collection featured models that no longer looked like models. Instead, Coco Rocha and company took on quite literal interpretations of the film’s gory disfigured Orc characters. Also, the oversized lumpy layers rendered them half-human, half-monster. So why do we want to walk around looking like slimy aliens or murderous Orcs? Is it our fuming subconscious that wants us to wear this “costume” of darkness? Either way, climbing into a cobweb and wearing it to the next dinner party will most likely make you an otherworldly guest.
(Opposite) Illustrations: Jannika Lilja, BFA Fashion Design. From left: Alexander McQueen, Mark Fast and Rodarte.
Original Punk: Keanan Duffty By Polina Pfliger, AA Fashion Merchandising
One eighty talked to Keanan about his working definitions of
anti-fashion and rebellion.
Rebellion has hit a brick wall. That’s according to author Keanan Duffty, British designer, frequent collaborator with David Bowie and founding
member of punk band Sordid Details. His recent book Rebel Rebel: Anti Style records the history of counter-culture and makes
a few choice jabs at some of pop culture’s over-achievers, including Lady Gaga, who he says,
From left: Mick Jones and Paul Simonon of The Clash; Kurt Cobain.
“is kind of a new
Cher. I don’t mean Cher in the ’60s,
I mean Cher in the I Believe era.”
180: Who would you say are this generation’s rebels?
Keanan Duffty: There are a few obvious ones right now like Amy Winehouse. Courtney Love exemplified (rebellion) during the ’90s and kind of continues to this day. Karen O from Yeah Yeah Yeahs. (Model) Agyness Deyn. Her rebellion is kind of contrived, but the context in which she is doing it is new. Celebrities like Johnny Depp embody a sort of anti-fashion rebellion. Picasso did anti-fashion in his day; Andy Warhol was very much doing that kind of thing with his wig and his ideas. The beatniks were a huge influence on every anti-fashion movement since their time, I mean I can’t even count how many bands are named after a William S. Burroughs quote. You open up one of his books and on whatever page it’s like, “Oh there’s a song title and the chorus.”
“Musicians should be personifying the dreams of
”
ordinary people.
180: What do you mean by anti-fashion?
KD: It’s very hard in today’s world to go against fashion, because everything today is almost consumed by fashion. Anything that stuns or shocks is very contrived: It’s almost completely normal. Everything today is projected so fast, written up on a blog or in a magazine. Information is instant. It’s really unfortunate in a way. Nothing gets a chance to evolve. There are no underground youth cultures anymore because as soon as something has a degree of visibility the media grabs it. Whether it is good or bad, they expose it and it becomes over very fast.
180: So, what should musicians wear to embody anti-fashion?
KD: They should look like they fell from another planet or another dimension. There are too many stylists and designers putting performers into clothes that they think are hip; and, for that very reason they are not hip.
Musicians should be personifying the dreams of ordinary people. I did a collection with David Bowie for Target. Following that, I really wanted to do a collection with The Horrors (but they weren’t interested). I thought, this is brilliant, if I were The Horrors, I wouldn’t want to do a collection with anybody either. At the end of the day, people just need to make a living. Once you get into that mindset you lose that edge because you’ve got something to lose. When you are rebelling it’s because you’ve got nothing to lose. 180: What genre of music do you think has most inspired designers lately?
KD: I can only answer for what I have been most inspired by. When I was in London, I saw this amazing band called the Destroyers, and there were 15 people in the band. They play polka— weird f***** up musical sounds with four violinists. The lead singer—and this is rebellion—
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From left: Keanan Duffty collection; Patti Smith; Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Star of The Beatles.
was at least 65 years old, had this long white beard, a fez and he looked like a magician from the Victorian era. That kind of band is my inspiration. You go to a Ralph Lauren show and they’re playing The Vampires remix of Heads Will Roll or something. You just know that Ralph Lauren wasn’t up late listening to the Yeah Yeah Yeahs thinking, “Oh hell, I’m going to put their Vampire remix in my next runway show.” There is another band out of England that is like a campy Iggy Pop. I can’t say their name, but the first part is “Selfish” and the last part begins with a “C” and has four letters. They always get banned from places they play, smashing things up and going completely crazy. 180: Tell me about your book.
KD: A lot of it is autobiographical. It is where I am coming from as a designer and as a musician. I play in a band (Slinky Vagabond) with guys from Blondie and the Sex Pistols. That is my contribution to rebellion. It’s like, “F**** off to getting old. We also included James Dean’s red jacket from Rebel Without a Cause and Michael Jackson’s red jacket in Thriller. Those items became talismans in popular culture.
180: What do you think is your greatest success?
KD: Working with Bowie. If I went back and talked to myself as a 13-year-old kid and said, “One day kid, you will be working with David Bowie,” that kid would be amazed and wouldn’t have believed it. David Bowie has been a big inspiration on my thinking process. Working with him in the same room would have been unbelievable as a teenager. It’s something I am really proud of. David is an amazing guy. He is down-to-earth and very smart.
180: You’ve worked with everyone from the Sex Pistols to Target. There’s a lot of diversity in your portfolio.
KD: The one that I really want to talk about is Martha Stewart because it’s so unexpected. If you put yourself in a place that’s really normal, you look a lot more rebellious. That’s the thing about rebellion, it’s so contextual. If you are in a room where everyone is in eyeliner and skinny jeans, you don’t look out of place; whereas, you go into a lawyer’s office dressed like that, you’re going to stand out more. I made (Martha Stewart) a spacesuit. It was for a Kmart commercial, and the theme was spacesaving, so she was kind of flying around. We took (the costume) to her house on July 4th. We come in and she’s making cherry pie and offering me homemade lemonade. Then one of her dogs bit me. She was mortified because she thought I was going to sue her or something. 163
180: Any last thoughts on rebellion?
It’s an onset expression, even if naïvely done. The pretension and arrogance are parts of it. It only works if you are young. It gets sad if you are still like that when you are older. Once you (are) over 30 you have to be able to laugh at yourself. Every generation has a new set of rebels in one way shape or form, and they continue to add to the subject, making it ever evolving.
From left: Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood. Opposite: David Bowie. All photos from Rebel Rebel: Anti Style, courtesy of Keanan Duffty.
La Nez
By Renata Lindroos, BFA Fashion Design
Photographer: Dan Glasser
Azzi Glasser,
inventor of Agent Provocateur Parfum, designs scents that make men chase her around the room, literally. She once wore it to a party hosted by P. Diddy where supermodel photographer Mario Testino wouldn’t let her out of his sight. In love with scents since the age of 3, Azzi lived in India for a while surrounded by rich colors and smells.
“I then moved to London where the air was pretty bland in comparison,” she says. “I knew something was missing (so) I started to collect my mother’s powder compacts, lipstick cases and perfume bottles.” Here is Azzi back home in London with her scent library: Bottles that contain saffron, coriander and mint notes along with scent families from tobacco and Cypress and liquid extractions derived from flowers. 166
Patti & Donna
Before building her fashion empire,
Donna Karan was Patti Cappalli Taylor’s
assistant. Juanita Scott, MFA Fashion
Merchandising, interviews Patti, an
Academy of Art University merchan-
dising instructor, about the time when Donna
was just a girl from Long Island.
It’s difficult to find a decent assistant let alone a lifelong friend, but Patti Cappalli Taylor landed both in Donna Karan. Their friendship started in 1978, when Patti, who was working for consulting firm Addenda, was looking for an assistant. She received a phone call from an old friend recommending a girl that had been recently fired from Anne Klein. This quirky girl turned out to be Donna Karan—who would one day reinvent the modern woman’s wardrobe with her seven easy pieces.
dodging amorous but aggressive waiters and getting mistaken for glamorous American models, they worked, shopped and dined together. Patti guided Donna while Donna kept Patti inspired with her enthusiasm. “We always worked and played hard,” says Patti. In St. Tropez, the hotspot for trend forecasting in the ’70s, Donna decided to go topless, which was shocking for the prim Americans at that time. She threw her bikini top out of the cab window on the way to Plage Tahiti. As Donna’s mentor, Patti was the first to tell her the French go topless at the beach—
“I saw in Donna a spirit and Donna and Patti. Photo courtesy of Patti Cappalli Taylor. passion that complemented my rather precise approach, and that intrigued not in a taxi. me,” says Patti. “She is prone to drop her drawers on any occasion— Anne Klein, who also recognized Donna’s raw clothes related that is,” says Patti. She scandalized talent, had hired Donna during her junior year the proper Anna Wintour on the editor’s first visit at Parsons but later realized that her ingénue was to see Donna’s collection by dressing and unundisciplined, not a fit for the demanding and dressing in her own samples. very results-oriented designer. Patti says Donna is enamored by women’s bodies, Patti recalls the first trip she and Donna took and her mantra is any size or any shape can look to Europe to source fabric. In Paris, between wonderful if put together properly.
169
“She understands women,” says Patti, “and she has a knack for making clothes that compliment their bodies.” Donna’s first sale was in Patti’s showroom. They had created a collection inspired by the cult film Midnight Cowboy. Patti, with Donna’s help, pulled together a collection of embroidered silk georgette shirts shown with velvet jeans and named the colors after the characters in the movie such as Ratso Rizzo. Donna was assigned the task of presenting the collection to Bloomingdales, a prime account of Addenda. They loved the presentation—not to mention Donna’s enthusiasm. The seeds of a super saleswoman were sown. After about 18 months, Donna left Addenda with Patti’s blessing to go back to Anne Klein. Anne was impressed by Donna’s newfound maturity and took her back into the fold. When Anne Klein died of breast cancer in 1974, Donna became the head designer at age 24. “We always had an unspoken agreement that she would return to Seventh Avenue (the headquarters of New York City’s Garment District). It was where she belonged,” says Patti. “I was happy for her.” After Donna’s departure, Patti hired another design assistant but immediately realized that Donna was a hard act to follow. Over the past 40 years, Patti and Donna have maintained their friendship. With Patti in San Francisco and Donna in New York, they see each other infrequently, but when they meet up it is as though no time has passed. “Donna has always been envious that I ended up in California as she has always wanted to live here,” says Patti and she is still passionate about her business, which has taken on new challenges such as her holistic-based company Urban Zen.
“She is extraordinarily compassionate and generous. That’s a good friend to have by your side,” says Patti. 170
An editorial I did for Kinki (a magazine in Switzerland). The series was taken in an abandoned psychiatric hospital—a scary place but incredible location.
Portfolio Nostalgic and melancholy: Two words that describe
alumna Julie Pike’s photography.
A shoot for Carl’s Cars Magazine. I’m inspired by old family albums, old movies, Polaroids. I love the way analog film looks.
“You can definitely tell a man didn’t take them,” she says.
In the early days, Julie, now 34, says she “never took no for an answer.” These days, her work appears on international newsstands. Here Julie shares stories from the set. Reported by Sunny Balfour, BFA Fashion Design
For 160g, an online magazine based in Paris (www.160grams.com). The model is the amazing Nina Oord.
An editorial I did for Oyster Magazine based in Australia. International Photography Awards (IPA) actually gave it an honorable mention in 2009. It was taken at a small summer cabin in Norway on a warm summer day.
From a series I did for I Love Fake (a youth culture magazine based in the Netherlands). They had a city issue, where they invited 12 photographers from different countries to do a story in their own city. This series was taken in Oslo at the Vigeland Sculpture Park in October. We had a blast, and the model, Johanne, was a dream come true to work with.
See more of Julie’s work at www.juliepike.no. Photos courtesy of Julie Pike, BFA ’01 Photography.
I prefer natural light and outdoor settings because it’s easier to get in touch with the model when there are not a lot of people around.
rThe Alteredr
Senders: 1. Myra and Robin Mize 2. Yvonne Muller 3. Armida Oraolei 4. Candy Cook 5. Manuel Fernรกndez Vidal 6. Melaku Seyoum
7. Ji-Young Ryu 8. Madasyn McGlothlin 9. Tang Zheng Bo 10. Stephanie Bianchi 11. Mary L. Howard 12. Marie Emrud 13. Rose Magary
Norse Play Illustrations by Ghazaleh Khalifeh, BFA ’10 Fashion Design
The Gods led by Thor do away with horned 2. The area produces cool music: Bjork, Lykke Li, headpieces and don themselves in Scandinavian
designers from Spring 2010’s runway.
Fever Ray and Peter Bjorn and John. And, let’s not forget ABBA.
3. In 1997, 100 pairs of jeans with red seams were Eight things to know about the region that invented skinny jeans, according to Stine Myrvang, designed and produced by Swede Jonny Johansson, part of Acne (Ambitions To Create Novel ExpresAA Fashion Merchandising. sion). They are still thriving as a design collective 1. Scandinavia includes Sweden, Norway, with stores and projects in nine different countries. Denmark, Finland and Iceland. They all have different design expressions but share common 4. A tip from Norwegian fashion photographer and blogger (lilisfashion.com) Line Kirkhus: “Let folklore traditions and dressing customs, inthe garment be the center of the outfit. Don’t cluding primary colors, chunky knits and lots over accessorize.” of layering.
5. Swedish-based labels J.Lindeberg and Tiger of Sweden used traditional tailoring to reinvent the suit, giving it a slim silhouette paired with narrow ties.
7. The fashion label Moods of Norway was started by Simen Staalnacke, Peder Borrensen and Stefan Dahlquist. The trio designed out of their basement in the small town of Stryn with the goal of making happy clothes for happy people via T-shirts with waffle recipes. They recently opened their first U.S. flagship store in Los Angeles.
6. Dane Henrik Vibskov, a graduate from London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, is the only Scandinavian designer showing at Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. With his 8. In 2008, the Scandinavian countries formed an graphic and avant-garde designs, he has attracted alliance called Nordic Initiative Clean & Ethical a worldwide following that includes M.I.A., The Fashion, or NICE Fashion. Their common goal: Arctic Monkeys and Franz Ferdinand. To take social, ethical and environmental responsibility to the textile industry. From left: FREYR, God of Fertility, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair blazer, Odeur shirt and Mads Nørgaard pants; AEGIR, God of the Sea, Mads Nørgaard shirt, Filippa K pants; SKADI, Goddess of Winter and Hunting, Mads Nørgaard top and Minimarket pants; THOR, God of Thunder, Filippa K blazer, Mads Nørgaard yellow sweater and Cheap Monday jeans; FREYA, Goddess of Love and Beauty, twin sister of FREYR, Acne shirt and pants; LOKI, God of Mischief, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair vest and Odeur shorts.
Four trends happening in the year 2020 excerpted from final
projects turned in by Fashion Forecasting students.
Instructor: Hersha Steinbock, Fashion Merchandising
FUTURECAST 4
2
1. Golden Age of Garbage
By Catherine Adams, BFA Fashion Merchandising, Enkhjargal Badamkhand, BFA ’10 Fashion Merchandising and Stephanie Barnett, BFA Textile Design
The Pacific Ocean becomes the world’s biggest landfill. Plastic, once heralded as the miracle material in the ’50s, turns out to be a toxic substance we can’t get rid of. Before the bottles bury us alive, the world fishes out the material for reuse. H&M does its part to save the planet by using it as a cheap fiber: chopping, melting and refining it to meet the consumer demand for fast fashion. 2. Fame Monster
By Nori Martono, BFA Fashion and Mi Wang, BFA Fashion Merchandising
3
1
develop textiles that change colors to communicate emotions. You’ll be wearing the proverbial heart on your sleeve. Colors on T-shirts and jeans emit emotions, ending tantrums and slowly phasing out reality television. An additional benefit: The halo from your LED ensemble will light up the room, serving as an energy saving alternative to lightbulbs. 4. The New Trench
By Ghazaleh Khalifeh, BFA ’10 Fashion Design and Prune Boidin, French Exchange from L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, BFA Merchandising
With killer flu rampant, we will all be wrapped in Coatuaries—patented coats meant to shield from rain while also sanitizing wearers from biological hazards. The outerwear would resemble a pod-like cocoon impenetrable to germs.
The fashion industry will be dominated by celebrity designers—even more so than it is now. Fame Like the Coatuary, the Prescriptiskin protects. will be the only brand currency. It is a body glove unique to its wearer. Each Prescriptiskin would be made based on your fiber 3. Million Points of Light prescription to best fulfill your mental and physiBy Rex Vinas Baluyot, BFA Fashion Merchandising, cal needs. Essential vitamins and anti-oxidants and Michelle Chen, BFA Fashion Merchandising as well as mood enhancers can be absorbed upon Biometric sensing technology used in electrocontact with the skin. The fashionistas of the cardiograms and lie detectors will be applied to future layer it underneath the Coatuary.
Collage: Shaughn Crawford, MFA Photography. 183
Horoscope
What designs do the planets have in store for you this spring?
By Philip Washington, BFA Fashion Journalism, and William Lichter, special to one eighty Artwork: Rodrigo Zapata, BFA ’09 Graphic Design
Aquarius
Taurus
Leo
Scorpio
The Bloomer
The Innovator
The Influencer
The Pursued
Pisces
Gemini
Virgo
Sagittarius
The Favorite
The Mouth
The Hustler
The Volatile
Aries
Cancer
Libra
Capricorn
The Business
The Globetrotter
The Lover
The Optimist
Jan. 20 - Feb. 18
Acting bashful is so 2009. For 2010, you have to be confident—but not too confident. Be cautious when presenting your ideas to some very important people. Like fellow Aquarian Narciso Rodriguez you have some great ideas, like geometric seams, but wait until the middle of May to share them if you want them to work.
Feb. 19 - March 20
This summer, you will be the most popular kid on the block like Piscean Alexander McQueen and his aquatic Spring 2010 collection. This newfound popularity affords the perfect opportunity to stitch up old wounds and move on. But remember—with great popularity comes great responsibility. Translation: Don’t let it go to your head.
March 21 - April 19
With no spare time on hand, your personal relationships may suffer. Aim to maintain a balance because all eyes are on you, and they’re waiting for something great. (What could this possibly mean for Arian Marc Jacobs?) In May, there may be unexpected expenses. Perhaps you’ll spend more than you want at an upcoming sample sale.
April 20 - May 20
Janet Jackson is a Taurus. So is Cher. (Is that a good thing?) So like them, you trust your instinct and style. This spring will bring about more self-confidence; and in turn people will trust you. Friends and family will flock to you because you are the Lexis Nexis of secrets—but you won’t crack. To distract them, just flaunt some vintage Halston. As a fellow Taurean, he would be proud.
May 21 - June 20
Your inherent gift of gab is more active than ever, which means you’ll need to be on guard about not letting those polarizing statements you’re so famous for slip out. Try to avoid this and have some contemporary class like Lanvin’s designer Alber Elbaz (who happens to be a Gemini) will make you see the pros and cons of any situation.
June 21 - July 22
No matter where you’re headed, don’t neglect things at home or they will fall apart. Vacation may turn into business, so keep an eye out for career opportunities abroad. To maintain your sanity and style, don the youthful edginess of Proenza Schouler—we’re sure Cancer comrade Lazaro Hernandez (half of the design team) would agree.
July 23 - Aug. 22
Think positive because your emotions will be magnified to the extreme this spring. This intensity makes you irresistible like Leo Coco Chanel. The ability to manipulate the minds of others is evident. Use it to position yourself to be at the top of your game in May, when a career opportunity will likely present itself. Again, please reference Mademoiselle Chanel.
Aug. 23 - Sept. 22 Karl Lagerfeld and Tom Ford are Virgos, and they are social hustlers. A blossoming social life shouldn’t get in the way of your obligations. If Tom can do it, so can you. As a result, you will have more energy than you know what to do with. How about taking care of anything you’ve been putting off? Maybe you can finally watch A Single Man.
Sept. 23 - Oct. 23 Libras are all about balancing the aspects of their life (i.e. Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren). Spring 2010 is a season of love, but be careful not to repeat past relationship mistakes. Set the scales so that your new attitude is at an equilibrium. Just because you have a new love in your life, doesn’t mean you have to exclude your family and friends.
Oct. 23 - Nov. 21
Be open to romance and intimacy from all angles because there may be unexpected suitors close by. Keep a structured cocktail number by Scorpion Zac Posen on standby because you never know when you might need to break it out to spite an ex that keeps appearing out of thin air. But you will always look better than them.
Nov. 22 - Dec. 21
If you aren’t careful, you will need a disclaimer warning of argumentative outbursts. Instead of using fighting words, channel your frustration into the things you love like some classic Versace (when Sagittarian Gianni was in the house). Believe us— therapy like this will clear your head and make you think more coherently.
Dec. 22 - Jan. 19
Be careful about who gets close to you. They may be shady characters. Rely on those you already trust to discern the bad from the good and prepare for the long haul. You will need discipline to make it through the summer, and when you make it, reward yourself. Might we suggest a Diane von Furstenberg (who happens to be a Capricorn) wrap dress?
Fashion Haikus Style.com fiend LV, YSL, Chanel
Enkhjargal Badamkhand, BFA ’10 Fashion Merchandising
Philip Washington, BFA Fashion Journalism
Llace Jackson, BFA Fashion Design
White is the new black
Lily Allen sings ene
What would Coco say? Angela Sison, BFA Fashion Design
Starbucks for breakfast
dress She cried in a gingham At Christopher Kane.
Death by platform heels.
Bored before owning.
In the end a kissing sc
There’s no place like home
Prints to make you think wear Hair aliens would not
Cut outs, new meaning Like puzzles missing pieces
At Bottega Veneta
Oh, Viktor & Rolf.
Just stay off MUNI. Aly Rix, BFA ’10 Textile Design
Philip Washington, BFA Fashion Journalism
lunch Vogue magazine is for Ramen for dinner. Enkhjargal Badamkhand, BFA ’10 Fashion Merchandising
Dear Anna Wintour, I would love to have your job Or to work with you. Harry Go, BFA Web Design & New Media
Barneys or Goodwill Dear Kaiser Karl, that weight? How did you lose all
P.S. Hate the clogs.
Dearest Anna Sui,
Karate dresses are in
your work My friend Vero loves Me too! You rock, girl!
I have a black belt.
Harry Go, BFA Web Design & New Media
Harry Go, BFA Web Design & New Media
Annalise Lundeen, BFA Textile Design
Bangles on your wrist
Cute boy on a bike so tight with skinny jeans— oh
I want you tonight. Natassia Silva, BFA ’09 Fashion Merchandising
What were you thinking
HIYA chop punch kick
morning? W hen you got up this
Coffee here and there
thes on racks Stacks of shoes and clo
your neck Replace diamonds on It’s a recession.
Natassia Silva,
BFA ’09 Fa shio n
The cost of high taste. Enkhjargal Badamkhand, BFA ’10 Fashion Merchandising
Chanel boots I like ex Visa, Mastercard, Am Credit card decline.
Death by photo shoot. Natassia Silva, BFA ’09 Fashion Merchandising
Aly Rix, BFA ’10 Textile Design
Major camel toe.
een Not anything in betw
Merchandising
Sitting in my bed
Natassia Silva, BFA ’09 Fashion Merchandising
a beer Having brownies and
Saturdays are fab.
Ca roline Evju, BFA
’10 Fa shion Design
All the news that’s not fit to print. Visit www.fashionschooldaily.com for updates
from the School of Fashion and insights from our bloggers. Here’s an excerpt: Blogger: Alyssa Prentice, BFA ’09 Fashion Design Alyssa works as a design assistant for Sara Shepherd, BFA ’05 Fashion and Textile Design, who debuted her Spring 2010 collection at New York Fashion Week. Her design diary documents her experiences leading up to the big day. The Alyssa Diaries No. 1: How It All Began The original inspiration started with the 1905 house Sara bought, built the year before the massive earthquake that left the city in ruins, fire burning all around. Sara explored San Francisco and everything else that was going on in this era: the Arts & Crafts movement, women’s right to vote and flight exploration. The Alyssa Diaries No. 3: I’m Bilingual One of the first things I learned as an assistant to a British designer is how to translate British English to how Americans speak. Plimsolls means Converse (as in the shoes), aeroplane is airplane, jelly is jam and so on. Patterns are drafted in a combination of centimeters and inches. Have you ever been in a car with someone who learned to drive in London? It’s like being in a racecar. A trip to the fabric store or FedEx is always an excellent adventure. Some days the studio is quiet; other times it’s a revolving door—coffee constantly and chilled wine or tea for guests, depending on the time of day. The British influence doesn’t stop there. Spring/Summer collections need raincoats. Does it always rain in London? I wonder, if that is because Sara is from England or because we live in San Francisco?
Sara Shepherd Spring 2010 Photographer: Dan Bowers for Getty Images.
The Alyssa Diaries No. 8: Weaving in and out of Bedlam
The Alyssa Diaries No 16: The Day of the Show
The term “bedlam” came from a psychiatric hospital in London called Bethlem Royal Hospital. It means uproar and confusion. Madhouse is probably the first thing to come to mind.
We have not slept more than a couple of hours the past few days. It looks like a bus ran us over. Coffee, cigarettes and junk food fuel our diet. This morning I finish up a couple of last minute hems and buttons. We have to get everything ready and packed for transportation—outfits in garment bags, tags labeled, shoes in their proper places, etc.
Bedlam came into play when Sara made a reference to it. And no, bedlam, is nothing close to describing the collection. But it does describe the insanity caused while constructing a few of the garments. Their complex construction can drive one to the “madhouse.” Figuring out which pieces to sew over and under and in a particular direction causes mass chaos. This reputation for confusion has earned these garments their bedlam nickname. The Alyssa Diaries No. 10: Nicknames We give the garments names not only for organization purposes, but to tie the inspiration into the collection. Also, when people see the garments listed in the show notes, it doesn’t say something boring like “navy blue trouser.” A couple of names we currently have: The 1906 Dress, The Sunburst Trouser and The Lloyd Trouser. Some of our nicknames come from our literary inspiration The Importance of Being Ernest characters Dandy, Merriman, Algernon, Miss Prism, and one we ended up using last week, The Bracknell Dress. The Alyssa Diaries No. 13: The Meaning of Tenacious I met Sara more than two years ago when I enrolled in her class (Construction, Draping, Flat Pattern 4).
At the venue, we unpack the collection, putting each outfit on a rack to their assigned model. We go over each outfit with the dressers to answer questions and make sure everything is alright. Also, each garment needs to be pressed or steamed before the show. While I am pressing, the models are in hair and makeup. Before I even realize it, it is 10 minutes before the show. You can feel the anticipation in the air. And then the show starts. My main priority during the show is to go from rack to rack helping any dressers in need. Everything goes effortlessly except for one zipper breaking. The show flies by, and I am already packing the collection up again to head back to the hotel. It has been a long day, but it is not over yet. Back at the hotel, it feels strange to only be with two people. There have been copious amounts of people coming in and out of the room. Now, it is just Sara, her husband and me. We all have huge grins on as we retell our personal accounts of the day. These stories continue over a late night celebration with the whole team. Even though exhausted, I am fueled by adrenaline and cannot wait for next season…
Even though I struggled constructing my own designs, it was a turning point in my education. It was, as they say, “when the light bulb went on.” Sara was there to answer my endless list of questions and to challenge me to find the answers. She also gave me the idea that there were many ways to sew and construct and that I had to find which way worked best for me. Senior year came and went fast. Before I knew it, I was walking across a stage, diploma in hand, graduating. After graduation, I passed from one major city to the next, New York (for an internship at Ralph Rucci) to London and back to San Francisco, where Sara offered me a position with her company. There’s always something to do and none of it is ever boring. Well, unless I get “pimped” out by mistakenly offering to wash the dishes. 190
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t s a LWo rd
Notes for 2010
A memo from the office of Gladys Perint Palmer, Executive Director of the School of Fashion Diana Blackwell is a model in our drawing classes. She is my favorite: A big beautiful woman with an amazing (erotic) wardrobe. She may seem intimidating at first. She was a member of a rock band but is totally professional on the podium. Now that we are out of the sad zero zeros and into a decade with a number—number one in fact—it’s time to consider that there is more to life than skinny creatures without personality. In 2010, the old model of models is passé:
Diana is the new model of a model.
Gladys Perint Palmer’s new book, Fashion Bible: From Eve to Yves, will be published this fall.