Diplomatic Connections May/June 2017

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BUSINESS • POLITICS • TRAVEL • ENTERTAINMENT • CONGRESS • MILITARY & DEFENSE

H.E. DINA KAWAR AMBASSADOR OF JORDAN TO THE UNITED STATES

H.E. FAYÇAL GOUIA AMBASSADOR OF TUNISIA TO THE UNITED STATES

KING ABDULLAH II AND QUEEN RANIA OF JORDAN WITH MEMBERS OF CONGRESS ON CAPITOL HILL

H.E. MS. MIRGUL MOLDOISAEVA PERMANENT REPRESENTATIVE OF THE KYRGYZ REPUBLIC TO THE UNITED NATIONS

SENATOR JOHN MCCAIN AND TUNISIAN FOREIGN MINISTER KHEMAIES JHINAOUI

KYRGYZ PRESIDENT ALMAZBEK ATAMBAEV AND CHINESE PRESIDENT XI JINPING

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Diplomatic EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Dawn Parker

DIPLOMATIC CONNECTIONS IS HOSTING

THREE (3) NEW INTERNATIONAL DIPLOMAT APPRECIATION RECEPTIONSTM MAY

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DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS OPERATIONS Lauren Peace BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT EXECUTIVES Evan Strianese, Scott Goss DESIGN & CREATIVE Watson Studios CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Larry Smith DIPLOMATIC CORRESPONDENTS and CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Roland Flamini, James Winship, PhD and Monica Frim

To contact an advertising executive CALL: 202.536.4810 EMAIL: info@diplomaticconnections.com DIPLOMATIC CONNECTIONS WEBSITE DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT IMS (Inquiry Management Systems) 304 Park Avenue South, 11th Floor New York, NY 10010 Marc Highbloom, Vice President marc@ims.ca Maria D’Urso, Project Manager Mariad@ims.ca CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHY Christophe Avril; Dr. John Frim; Paula Morrision; Kyrgyzstan Mission to the United Nations in New York To order photos from the events go to: www.diplomaticconnections.com Send any name or address changes in writing to: Diplomatic Connections 4410 Massachusetts Avenue / #200 Washington, DC 20016 Diplomatic Connections Business Edition is published bi-monthly.

Diplomatic Connections does not endorse any of the goods or services offered herein this publication.

Copyright 2017 by Diplomatic Connections All rights reserved.

Cover photo credits: Ambassador of Jordan Dina Kawar, Paula Morrison/Diplomatic Connections; Ambassador of Tunisia Faycal Gouia, Christophe Avril/Diplomatic Connections; King Abduallah II and Queen Rania of Jordan, Zach Gibson/AFP/Getty Images; Ambassador Mirgul Moldoisaeva of Kyrgyzstan, Christophe Avril/Diplomatic Connections; Senator John McCain with Tunisian Foreign Minister Jhinaoui, Embassy of Tunisia in Washington, D.C.

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H.E. FAYÇAL GOUIA AMBASSADOR OF TUNISIA TO THE UNITED STATES

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H.E. MS. MIRGUL MOLDOISAEVA PERMANENT REPRESENTATIVE OF THE KYRGYZ REPUBLIC TO THE UNITED NATIONS

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TUNISIAN AMBASSADOR TO WASHINGTON MAKES DIPLOMACY SING WORKS TO STABILIZE HIS GOVERNMENT IN THE AFTERMATH OF THE ARAB SPRING JAMES A. WINSHIP, PH.D.

H.E. FAYÇAL GOUIA [GOO-EE-YA] was named the Republic of Tunisia’s Ambassador to the United States in 2015 following an historic National Dialogue that brought peace to Tunisia and established a functioning democracy in his country.

Tunisia was the birthplace of the Arab Spring in 2011. Ambassador Gouia has lived through tumultuous, uncertain times as his country struggled to find its footing in the aftermath of a revolution that overthrew an authoritarian government and opened the doors to a cacophony of political voices ranging from insistently Islamist parties to multiple secular parties to remnants of the earlier dictatorial regime that ruled Tunisia before the Arab Spring uprising.

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H.E. FAYÇAL GOUIA AMBASSADOR OF TUNISIA TO THE UNITED STATES

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What emerged from that initial uncertainty was an emotional desire for democracy but few instructions describing the necessary steps along the path from dictatorship to the hoped for result. Instability built on frustration and economic stagnation made it difficult to form and sustain governments. Out of the turmoil of assassinations and street protests emerged a National Dialogue Quartet of organizations that brought disparate political parties together, successfully put together a roadmap for political restructuring, scheduled new elections and established a technocratic government that organized free and transparent elections. Eventually, that “Quartet” would be awarded the 2015 Nobel Peace Prize for “establishing an alternative peaceful political process at a time when the country was on the brink of civil war.”

Tunisia has been described as the “model of a country that is capable of social resilience in the face of the scourge of terrorism and extremism.” But, observers quickly add, “The Tunisian experiment is still fragile.” It is

Ambassador Gouia’s brief in Washington: to lift-up and explain Tunisia’s success, to strengthen its fragility, to build relationships with the Trump administration and the Congress and to emphasize his country’s continuing needs for assistance.

What is quietly striking about Ambassador Gouia is that beneath the polished exterior of a skilled diplomat lurks the soul of a talented musician, a skilled singer in oriental music and the classical tradition of Tunisia’s Malouf style that has been called “an emblem of Tunisian identity.”

Malouf’s long tradition is itself a cultural mélange that represents the blend of cultures that shapes modern Tunisia. Its roots are in ninth century Baghdad and classical Arab tradition. The music then made its way across North Africa and into Islamic Andalusia returning to North Africa in the 13th century when Muslims fled Christian persecution in Spain. Along the way, Malouf picked up elements of North African Berber music, European strands,

threatened by domestic terrorism carried out by returning jihadis and continuing economic stagnation. And that is

and bits of Ottoman tradition to supplant its classical roots.

The heart of Islamic and Malouf tradition in Tunisia was the city of Kairouan, the first great Islamic city and

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Brendan Smialowski/AFP/Getty Images

Foreign Minister Khemaies Jhinaoui and Secretary of State Rex Tillerson talk before a meeting at the U.S. Department of State on March 13, 2017 in Washington, D.C.

cultural center of North Africa and perhaps fourth in importance to Islamic tradition after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem and today a UNESCO World Heritage city. It is also the birthplace of Ambassador Gouia, and it is a place where learning and music have always been treasured. Fayçal Gouia inherited a love of both and observes that, if he had not become a diplomat, “I would have become a musician!”

That classical music training contributes enormously to Ambassador Gouia’s knowledge of his country and its people as well as his ability both to articulate Tunisia’s concerns and listen attentively to the concerns of other countries in the region. Throughout his career, Gouia has brought Tunisia’s voice to international conferences, to capitals across the world and now to Washington, D.C., where he seeks to harmonize Tunisia’s needs with the

continued his professional training with a degree in public finance from a leading French University and further advanced administrative training in Tunis. He is a graduate of the National Defense University in the United States as well as the National Defense University of Tunis and completed advanced English language training at the Bourguiba Institute in Tunis.

Ambassador Gouia served as Head of the Budget Management Division in the Ministry of Finance before moving to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, first as Deputy Director for South Asia and later as Director for the Americas. In 1995, Gouia was assigned for the first time to the Tunisian Embassy in Washington, D.C., initially as Cultural and Press Counselor, then as Economic and Commercial Counselor and finally as Deputy Chief of Mission

security concerns of the United States.

Educated in Kairouan and then in Tunis at the National School of Administration, where he received a Master’s degree. Ambassador Gouia began his diplomatic career as Head of the International Relations Department at the Ministry of Women and Family Affairs, but subsequently

in 1999. He knows the United States well.

Returning to Tunis in 2001, Gouia headed the Americas Department in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. He received his first ambassadorial appointment as Ambassador to Indonesia in 2006 where he was accredited to the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and Brunei

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Ambassador Gouia (L) and Foreign Minister Jhinaoui (R) with Senator McCain at the Russell Senate office building on March 13, 2017Â in Washington, D.C.

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as well. After completing that assignment in 2010, Ambassador Gouia returned to Tunis and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs where he first became Director General for Africa and the African Union and in 2011 was appointed Director General for the Americas and Asia. He served as Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs in 2014 before being named Ambassador to the United States in 2015.

Diplomatic Connections: Ambassador Fayçal, you have had a long and distinguished diplomatic career in service to your country. What led you to an interest in international affairs and into a diplomatic career?

Even as we met, Ambassador Gouia and his staff were busy preparing for the visit of the Tunisian Foreign Minister, Khemaies Jhinaoui, to Washington where he met with Secretary of State Rex Tillerson and leading members of Congress. Still, in the midst of the whirlwind of preparations for that high-level visit, the Ambassador was kind enough to make time to speak with “Diplomatic Connections.”

as the Western Mediterranean Forum, this group includes 5 states of the Maghreb Union and five states of the European Union: Algeria, Libya, Mauritania, Morocco and Tunisia; France, Italy, Malta, Spain and Portugal.]

Ambassador Gouia: What led me to the diplomatic scene is my fascination with international relations and world events. The role of diplomats at the forefront of efforts to prevent any kind Diplomatic of misunderstanding or any Connections: In kind of conflict intrigued and the aftermath of energized me. Diplomats are the “Arab Spring” there to serve their countries.

(2011) that led to This is natural and normal, but the overthrow of a diplomats are also charged to Tunisian government, Ambassador Gouia (L) and Foregin Minister Jhinaoui (R) with Mrs. K. T. McFarland, Deputy an event that spread prevent misunderstandings National Security Advisor to President Donald Trump on March 15, 2017 at the White House across North Africa and conflicts. It is part of my West Wing. and challenged personality and temperament regimes from Morocco to Egypt and beyond, your country has to conciliate and to bring people together. been called a “beacon of hope” managing “a rocky path to democracy.” Can you help us understand both of Diplomatic Connections: Given its geographic location, Tunisia those expressions? is simultaneously a North African country and an Arab country, a Muslim country, a Maghreb country, a Mediterranean country, and Let’s start with a “beacon of hope.” a Francophone country. How do all of these overlapping identities Ambassador Gouia: Tunisia has been a beacon of hope shape Tunisian culture and diplomacy? because our country escaped from the control of a Ambassador Gouia: We accept all of these heritages and dictatorship that lasted for many decades. The good news integrate them into a unique mix that is Tunisian culture was that Tunisians with their strong will, direct engagement and civilization. In turn, we are also part of many regional and enduring commitment to live in a nation where organizations that touch on each of these facets of Tunisia’s democracy, liberties and freedom prevailed were able to identity. We are part of the Union of the Arab Maghreb, the succeed in overthrowing that dictatorship of President Zine African Union, and the League of Arab States. We are also El Abidine Ben Ali. part of the 5+5 Mediterranean Dialogue. [Formally known

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We are a “beacon of hope” because Tunisians are educated, women are emancipated and because people have dreamed all their lives of living in a peaceful and free country. That’s what happened in 2011 when all Tunisians went into the streets and told the dictatorship that “the game is over.” Today we call this the “Revolution of Liberty and Dignity.”

Diplomatic Connections: And now help us understand the other part of this formulation, the “rocky path to democracy.” Progress since the revolution has been bumpy.

Ambassador Gouia: No path to democracy is easy. The transition is necessarily difficult. We don’t have the culture; we don’t have the traditions of living under a democratic system. People are not accustomed to living with a democratic way of life. Our institutions were not ready yet at that time in 2011 to deal with the new rules of the game required for being governed as a democracy. It was inevitable that the first years of a new political system would be bumpy.

Diplomatic Connections: Tunisia has not had the same level of upheaval, resistance, splintering and violence that other countries

in North Africa have had. Why? What made your country able to absorb these revolutionary events?

Ambassador Gouia: There are many reasons for that. First, the existence of core institutions in Tunisia were critical.

Second, we have had a dynamic and vibrant civil society.

Third, the role of women in Tunisia was vital to the process of change. Fourth, Tunisia has been fortunate to have a well-educated population. It is important for any democratic transition to have a population that has an overall high level of literacy and education. One that understands the ideas of diversity, tolerance, debate and disagreement within the bounds of democratic governance.

Finally, we were blessed with very wise political leaders who understood the need to cooperate despite differences and worked hard to build a secular coalition government that could include but not be dominated by Islamist parties.

Diplomatic Connections: The United States and Tunisia have a long diplomatic history. The United States was the first country to recognize Tunisia’s independence from France and to establish diplomatic relations with Tunisia under President Bourguiba’s leadership, was it not?

Foreign Minister Khemaies Jhinaoui and Ambassador Fayçal Gouia with the staff at the Embassy of Tunisia on March 15, 2017 in Washington, D.C.

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Ambassador Gouia: This year we are celebrating 220 years of uninterrupted Tunisian-American relations. Tunisia was also among the very first countries to recognize the independence of the United States. The United States reciprocated in 1956 by recognizing Tunisia immediately after its declaration of independence. And the United States was among the very first superpowers to support Tunisia in the midst of its recent revolution on all levels and also to offer our nation assistance and support. I will never forget this achievement by the American people.

Diplomatic Connections: What are the key issues between Tunisia and the United States today?

Ambassador Gouia: Tunisia and the United States have many issues in common, especially the fight against terrorism.

Both nations have been directly affected by terrorism. We all remember the September 11, 2001 attacks on the World Trade Center and the Pentagon. Unfortunately, in recent years Tunisia has been subject to terrorist attacks also.

Now, I would say that Tunisia is much safer. Working together with the United States we have made great progress in combatting terrorism. We are in a better situation in terms of security. Deepening this mutual commitment was one of the main objectives of the visit by our Foreign Minister.

have crossed the border from Libya into Tunisia seeking to both recruit and foment violence within Tunisia.

Does Libya represent a “failed state?” Is it destined to be constantly undermined by terrorist groups?

Ambassador Gouia: The Libyan problem arose from miscalculation. The international community did not think ahead about how Libya would be stabilized in the aftermath of the fall of Gaddafi’s government. Subsequent to overthrowing a regime like the Gaddafi regime, the first issue that must be tackled is to reassemble an army as well as the institutions that will stabilize the country and ensure the security of Libya and Libyans. Unfortunately, that did not happen.

Talking about Libya as a “failed state” may somewhat exaggerate the situation. To be sure, events in Libya have been tumultuous, uncertain and approaching anarchy in some parts of the country. But there have been and continue to be serious efforts to reestablish order, lay the foundations of legitimate rule and erect a working system of government there.

Jordan Pix/ Getty Images

Diplomatic Connections: Are there other issues of critical concern beyond fighting terrorism?

Ambassador Gouia: There are important bilateral issues dealing with security, trade and development. Tunisia is a major non-NATO ally of the United States, and we have a Strategic Dialogue that will meet sometime this year in Tunisia. We also have upcoming meetings of the Joint Economic Commission and the Joint Military Commission later this spring.

Diplomatic Connections: What is the status of plans for a Free Trade Agreement [FTA] between Tunisia and the United States?

Ambassador Gouia: We are currently discussing a trade and investment framework agreement known as TIFA. It will provide necessary legislation and the legal framework to improve, increase and develop the economic relations between Tunisia and the United States. We all expect the negotiations for a free trade agreement, an FTA, between the two countries to bear fruit in the near future.

Diplomatic Connections: There are many different groups that emerged amid the disorder that followed the end of the Gaddafi regime in Libya, and there has been a great deal of internecine conflict among them. Several of those groups, or their adherents,

Tunisian President Beji Caid Essebsi attends the Arab League summit in the Jordanian Dead Sea resort of Sweymah, Jordan on March 29, 2017. Arab leaders met in Jordan for their annual conference on resolving conflicts or "terrorism" in the region.

Diplomatic Connections: What steps are being taken to try to stabilize the situation in Libya and establish a legitimate government there?

Ambassador Gouia: The President of Tunisia, Beji Caid Essebsi, has put forth a 5-Point Libya Initiative that has been endorsed by our neighbors Egypt and Algeria and is moving ahead. It proposes a comprehensive reconciliation process under the auspices of the United Nations; recognizes Libyan sovereignty and territorial integrity; rejects any military solution or outside interference; insists on the continuity of Libyan state institutions; and, envisions a tripartite summit

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NOTE: The entire video interview with Ambassador Gouia may be seen on the “Diplomatic Connections” website.

GO TO: www.DiplomaticConnections.com

Diplomatic Connections: May we ask you to reflect back on your diplomatic experience. What would be your advice to those young people who aspire to be diplomats?

Ambassador Gouia: Diplomacy is a very noble mission.

Anyone who considers being a diplomat first needs to have wide horizons and extensive cultural awareness. Being rooted in your own national tradition is a must, but it’s imperative to also strive to understand that other nations are rooted in their own cultural traditions as well.

James Winship, Ph.D., Diplomatic Connections interviewing Tunisian Ambassador Fayçal Gouia in Washington, D.C.

between the sponsors in Algiers. Our hope is that this initiative will gather Libyans around the table to discuss the problems their country is going through along with facilitating an end to the crisis. The goal is to make Libya stable, prosperous, developed and secure again.

Diplomatic Connections: How do you go about attracting international investment to help build Tunisia, to build its economy, especially in ways that will spread resources and opportunities across the country?

Ambassador Gouia: We have undertaken a series of economic reforms. The major reform is related to investment law. What we are creating is very interactive and extremely progressive. Second, security is key to attracting and keeping foreign investment in Tunisia. Third, we have a very well educated and highly qualified labor force. Tunisian labor is also much less expensive than would be the case in many other parts of the world, and the Tunisian government will encourage and support needed training programs for workers.

Diplomatic Connections: How is your country dealing with the problems of unemployment and underemployment?

Ambassador Gouia: Our primary aim is to provide our young people with jobs. There is what has been called a misalignment between the level of educational achievement and the availability of job opportunities for young people in our country. You can look at these young people as a burden, or you can look at them as an enormous opportunity and an incredible resource for our country that will fuel economic revival.

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Aspiring diplomats must learn not only the history of international relations but also acquire the skills of diplomacy that have been developed over centuries. It is important to have knowledge of the connections between major actors in the world and the evolving workings of our global economy.

I advise young diplomats to learn by doing and to hone their listening skills. They should prepare for higher responsibility by fully investing themselves and learning as much as they can in the initial staff positions they maintain. That is how you learn both the responsibilities and the procedures, formal and informal, of diplomacy.

Diplomatic Connections: If you could leave only one lesson with these young diplomats, what would it be?

Ambassador Gouia: Representation, I would insist upon, as it is very important, especially when you serve abroad outside the borders of your territory, because you “represent” your country. In a very real sense, for the people you meet and with whom you interact, you are your country.

When people look at a diplomat from Tunisia or any other nation, you are the mirror. You become the image of your citizenry.

That is a great challenge, an enormous obligation and a remarkable opportunity. It is a heavy responsibility because people will not only judge you but they will judge your nation through your personality, through your words, and through your actions.

Diplomatic Connections: Thank you Mr. Ambassador. That representation of your country is something that you do extraordinarily well, sir. You are an exemplary role model for the young diplomats who work under your direction.

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J

ordan is an oasis of relative stability in a region in turmoil – a fact that has made it a magnet for refugees fleeing from considerably less peaceful neighboring countries. The

Hashemite Kingdom’s Palestinian majority is the result of an influx of refugees from the Arab-Israeli wars of 1948 and 1967. Iraqis flooded across the border following the U.S. offensive to bring down Saddam Hussein; and most recently 1.4 million Syrians have sought refuge in Jordan from the ongoing civil strife in their own country. The Syrian Refugee Camp at Zaatari, an hour’s drive from the Jordanian capital, Amman, is large enough to qualify as Jordan’s fourth largest city, with some 80,000 inhabitants.

But that’s only one part of Jordan’s refugee problem, says

JORDAN Dina Kawar, the Hashemite Kingdom’s ambassador in

DIFFERENT ARAB SPRING

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H.E. DINA KAWAR AMBASSADOR OF THE HASHEMITE KINGDOM OF JORDAN TO THE UNITED STATES

ROLAND FLAMINI TALKS TO AMBASSADOR DINA KAWAR D I P L O M AT I C C O N N E C T I O N S B U S I N E S S E D I T I O N | M AY – J U N E 2 0 1 7

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Washington. Ninety percent of Jordan’s Syrian refugee population lives outside the camps and the UN support system. Instead, they are spread all over the country and many of them have been there for the past seven years, straining Jordan’s already hard pressed economy, and undermining its education system by overcrowding its classes. At a recent conference in London, the Jordanians successfully laid out a plan for receiving direct aid from wealthier participating countries to make support of these refugees more sustainable within the national budget. For all its problems, the country experienced a different kind of Arab Spring from that of its more volatile neighbors – peaceful and generally constructive. A variety of reasons brought this about including the popularity of

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Jordan’s constitutional monarch, King Abdullah II, who quickly promised to press ahead with political, economic, and social change (still a work in progress); the fact that there is no sectarian rivalry; and as Ambassador Kawar points out, the vested interest of the largely prosperous Palestinian majority in maintaining stability. Though the Jordanian economy is improving, there is still a reliance on foreign aid, including $1 billion from the United States.

With the Trump administration threatening to slash foreign aid in its first budget the issue inevitably came up when King Abdullah met President Trump in the White House early in April. But the situation in Syria and the Syrian refugee problem overshadowed the discussion because President Trump was still in shock from Syrian President

Aliia Raimbekova/Anadolu Agency/Getty Images

General view of the third session of Syria peace talks in Astana, Kazakhstan on March 15, 2017. Besides Turkey and Russia, Iran also agreed to stand a guarantor for the ceasefire.

Bashar al-Assad’s poison gas attack on his own people.

Dina Kawar described the meeting as “constructive” and said Trump also seemed determined to get to grips with the Palestinian-Israeli peace process. In Ambassador Kawar, Jordan has a seasoned diplomat in Washington. She was the Hashemite Kingdom’s ambassador in Paris for 12 years, before moving to the United Nations as permanent representative in 2014 – just in time to occupy a seat as non-permanent member of the U.N. Security Council, and its president. In 2016, she was co-facilitator of the UN’s high level conference on refugees. The same year, she moved to Washington as Jordanian ambassador. She began her interview with Diplomatic Connections by describing the refugee situation in Jordan and the pressures it exerts on the country’s economic and social fabric.

Ambassador Kawar: It’s the seventh year in the (Syrian) war and we’re almost at 1.4 million Syrians in Jordan, which is about 20 percent of the total population. Of that number, there are 630,000 that are registered refugees with the United Nations High Commission for Refugees (UNHCR), the rest of the Syrians are de facto refugees because they cannot go back home. Ninety percent of the refugees live outside the camps -- throughout the country. Only 10 percent live in the camps, mainly situated in norther Jordan.

The rest are living all over the place; therefore, they are part of our community and are the responsibility directly of the government. They’re sharing our resources, benefitting from all our subsidies, they are in the cities: there’s an infrastructure that has to cope with 20 percent more population.

Diplomatic Connections: In other words, an unforeseen burden.

Ambassador Kawar: Last year, there was the London Conference (on Refugees) and we said, okay, let’s look at this paradigm of refugees and see if we can deal with it differently. Usually the UNHCR and NGOs get together and start helping refugees, sending food, money, etc. But we argued 90 percent are living in the country [outside the camps] and education needs to be provided, we’ve had to have double shifts in schools, with classes that were almost 40 plus students, if not more, which is a burden on the facilities and on the teachers. The quality was suffering. So we said, you want to help the refugees, then help the host country: make Jordan more resilient. That was a new way of looking at the problem – perhaps a first in the history of how to deal with refugees that might in the future change the circumstances in other situations. The conference in London involved many nations including Kuwait: fund raising was done for this meeting. And we said we will give education, help, and also employment. You ask how are you going to offer employment when Jordan already has high unemployment? We have 11 economic zones which survive by having a certain percentage of foreign labor. Instead of importing other foreign labor, let’s get the Syrians to do the jobs. Secondly, some of them are already getting jobs in the market: 30,000 firms are employing Syrian refugees. Heads of families want to feel that they are providing. What the government doesn’t want is for black market to grow, so we have to establish minimum wages.

Diplomatic Connections: So you’re attempting to create a more realistic approach to the refugee problem, which others can follow. continue to page 40

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Mark Wilson/Getty Images

King Abdullah II of Jordan shakes hands with President Donald Trump in the Oval Office of the White House on April 5, 2017 in Washington, D.C. Standing behind the President and King are Queen Rania of Jordan and First Lady Melania Trump.

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Ron Sachs - Pool/Getty Images

President Trump and his wife, First Lady Melania, welcome King Abdullah II of Jordan and his wife Queen Rania of Jordan at the West Wing of the White House, on April 5, 2017 in Washington, D.C.  Later that day, King Abdullah II of Jordan and President Trump spoke to the media during a joint news conference in the Rose Garden at the White House.

Zach Gibson/AFP/Getty Images

King Abdullah II and Queen Rania of Jordan pose for a photo with: (L-R) Senator Johnny Isakson (R-GA); Senator Ben Cardin (D-MD); Senator Bob Corker (R-TN); Senator Bob Menendez (D-NJ); and Senator Tom Udall (D-NM), on Capitol Hill in Washington, D.C., on February 1, 2017.

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Khalil Mazraawi/AFP/Getty Images

King Abdullah II of Jordan (C) and his brothers Prince Faisal (L), Prince Ali (2nd L), Prince Hamzeh (2nd R), Prince Hashem (3rd R) and their cousin Prince Rashed are seen at Marka airport as they wait for the Saudi Arabian King's arrival on March 27, 2017 ahead of the 28th Summit of the Arab League.

Saudi Arabia's King Salman rides with King Abdullah II of Jordan in a vintage Mercedes after a welcome ceremony at the airport in the Jordanian capital Amman on March 27, 2017 ahead of the 28th Summit of the Arab League.

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Diplomatic Connections: The assumption presumably is that they are not there permanently?

Ambassador Kawar: Of course. The Syrians definitely want to go home. The UN has done studies that show that any refugee has 17 years out of his or her country because of war. We’re already at the seventh year, but we know that it will be many years before they can go back. Some of them might want to return to help build the economy. Others might say, our kids are in school; we’re fine here now, we want them to finish and we’ll go later.

When these people leave their own country, where do they go for refuge - to a neighboring country which is an extension of their own.

Saudi Arabia's King Salman bin Abdulaziz Al Saud (C-L) meets with King Abdullah II (C-R) of Jordan as he arrives to attend the 28th Arab League Summit in Amman, Jordan on March 27, 2017.

Arab Leauge leaders pose for a family photo during the Arab League summit in Dead Sea Region, Jordan on March 29, 2017.

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Bandar Algaloud/Saudi Kingdom Council/Anadolu Agency/Getty Images

Ambassador Kawar: And this has been an example that will probably become the norm. Otherwise it’s impossible to deal with that large a number -- you look at Lebanon: they have an incredible problem with refugees, you look at Turkey, same thing, but Turkey is a bigger country, and it’s a bigger economy.

Diplomatic Connections: Is Jordanian citizenship open to them?

Ambassador Kawar: No, it isn’t. One day most of them will go, and likely in two phases. The number of refugees had stabilized, but I’m worried now because there’s another battle in Raqqa, in northern part of Syria.

Diplomatic Connections: The Syrians are the second, and most recent, wave of refugees. Before them, came the Iraqis, during the Iraq war. What, if any, are the differences between the two groups?

Ambassador Kawar: Many of the Iraqis came with lots of means and they opened businesses which contributed to the economy. The Syrians were not as wealthy but they are very skilled. They’re good with their hands, they have become active in the restaurant industry. In Amman, the restaurant sector is strongly influenced by Syrians who have contributed to the quality of the food. I think with every refugee influx you also get something good, they contribute.

Diplomatic Connections: What do think is needed to reach a solution to the Syrian crisis?

Ambassador Kawar: There’s always the chicken or egg business with Syria. Do we stop the Islamists and make the country secure, and then we hold political talks, or vice versa? We feel there are two tracks that need to go parallel. The Astana talks (the International Meeting on Syria Settlement in Astana, capital of Kazakhstan) which are Russian, Turkish and Iranian have to concentrate on the cease fire part and stopping all sorts of violence.

You need to stop the violence for the political process to become valid. The opposition forces in the south are in a strong enough position to have a positive part in any fighting against the extremists, and secondly to take part in the political process. There is this question whether the opposition is capable of taking over (once Bashar al-Assad goes). Well, the opposition is part of the Syrian population, and so what needs to be done is for like minded people, the Americans, the Russians and other countries that have a stake in that country should each use leverage on the forces they have to induce them to sit down and talk.

But until the U.S. and the Russians will force them, it will not happen. These are the two countries that can influence the situation in Syria. I think Secretary of State Rex Tillerson has gone to discuss what the Russians have in mind, and whether they are willing to cooperate and work together.

Diplomatic Connections: Jordan was one of the few Arab countries that was not swept up in the turbulence of the Arab Spring. How did your country manage to avoid it?

Ambassador Kawar: At the beginning of the Arab Spring, the king understood the street, and listened to the demands – what the people wanted. He went ahead with many of the reforms in the country which he had wanted to do when he came to the throne in 1999, but then we had 9/11 and on the world stage there was a frenzy over security that stalled many of these changes.

But he changed the constitutional court, the voting laws, and many of the articles in the constitution, along with several other things.

And he allowed people to demonstrate.

During the entire year, every Friday there

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were Jordanians out in the streets. One man died from a heart attack but there was no violence, the police were there, the gendarmerie, and they made sure that everything was peaceful; they could go ahead and do what they wanted to. That, in my opinion, was one of the big factors. The second thing is that Jordanians are very united: most are Sunni, with a minority of Christians. We do not have the internal complexity of other neighbors.

Diplomatic Connections: You don’t have the sectarian divide of some of your neighbors between Sunni and Shia factions?

Ambassador Kawar: We only have Sunnis, and the Christian minority who are well protected. The Palestinian factor in our society played a stabilizing role. Considering the investment they’ve made they want to make sure that Jordan is stable. The Palestinians have come a long way.

Many Jordanians are of Palestinian origin. But the identity of Jordanian Palestinians has become… more Jordanian.

Most of them are in businesses, or professors, in liberal arts, and are committed to the stability of the country.

They’re very wise and extremely careful.

Diplomatic Connections: What can you tell us about the economy generally?

Diplomatic Connections: What do you mean by bi-lateral issues?

Ambassador Kawar: The technical things. Military aid, the fight against terrorism, border security and the economic aid that we get. But he didn’t go into details. He asked questions, not to learn, but to get the feel of the king.

“What do you think of this; I think that, but I want to hear your opinion.” Getting to know the king more in depth about issues.

Diplomatic Connections: With regard to the peace process, did the king come away with the impression that anything was going to happen soon?

Ambassador Kawar: I wouldn’t say soon, because it’s much more complicated. What is happening is the start of a “reconnaissance” -- trying to see where we can go, what are the difficulties, where are the obstacles that can be overcome, which ones can’t. It’s literally putting the cards on the table and I think they want to do it. Or at least they want to push both sides to try to find a solution.

Ambassador Kawar: The economic side is worrisome. The king has said that what keeps him awake at night is the need to make sure there’s employment and opportunity for all the youth where most of the unemployment is today. Add that to the pressure of the refugees on the budget because you have to spend more. The gas pipeline with Egypt has been cut (by sabotage) and we’ve had to find alternative resources. The economic zones are a positive contribution. One day, hopefully we will become energy independent, which will give our economy a definite boost.

Diplomatic Connections: What part would Jordan play?

Diplomatic Connections: What can you tell us about King Abdullah’s two meetings with President Trump?

Ambassador Kawar: At the Arab summit held in Jordan (April 2017), we discussed the importance of the Arab peace initiative (2002). We’re saying (to the Israelis) you make peace with the Palestinians on the basis of the peace initiative and in return (Israel) gets normalization with 22 Arab states with the chance to open up to all these countries, plus you have the guarantee of these countries.

So Jordan would be part of this. But when it comes to the negotiations there are actually certain factors that do concern us: you have, as I said, the refugee issue, the water issue as part of the area. We’re not going to negotiate for the Palestinians, but it’s the outer boundaries, the regional part that involves us.

Ambassador Kawar: The first was more of an informal meeting during a prayer breakfast. The second one was more substantive with more advisers attending. The president was very curious in hearing His Majesty’s opinion on many issues, and he was asking questions. Obviously, he has a real wish to tackle the Israeli-Palestinan issue, and he was very serious about this; also the issue of terrorism and how we can finish them (ISIS) off; he discussed the Syrian situation from a political stance as well as a humanitarian one. He was affected, highly affected by the gas attack. And he mentioned it again in the press 42

conference that followed, and it was obvious that it had influenced his response. And we have our bi-lateral issues, but he was curious to hear the king’s views. It was very constructive.

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Ambassador Kawar: We are involved in many parts. Border security, water issues, refugees, we’re involved, Jerusalem, because of the custody of the Hashemites, we’re involved.

Not in a political sense but in the religious arrangement.

All the religious Muslim and Christian sites are under the Hashemite custody or patronage. All the administrative staff that work in the churches or at the Muslim sites belong to our ministry of religious affairs.

Diplomatic Connections: So Jordan would be at the table?

Ahmad Abdo/AFP/Getty Images

A general view of the preparatory meeting of Arab Foreign Ministers during the 28th Summit of the Arab League at the Dead Sea, south of the Jordanian capital Amman, with the Arab League Secretary-General Ahmed Abul-Gheit (C-L) and chair Jordanian Foreign Minister Ayman Al Safadi (C) seated in the center. Arab League chief Ahmed Abul Gheit urged Arab governments during the preparatory meeting on March 27, 2017 to do more to resolve the conflict in Syria rather than leaving it to other powers, urging foreign ministers to "find an effective way of intervening to stop the shedding of blood in Syria and end the war."

Diplomatic Connections: How nervous is Jordan about Iranian interference?

Ambassador Kawar: They’re not far from our borders in Syria and Lebanon.

Diplomatic Connections: Have there been any ISIS attacks in Jordan?

Ambassador Kawar: There was one attack in the northern part, and they try on our borders. They are in close proximity. We’ve lost a few soldiers to ISIS. The whole army and security are mobilized. We’re somehow at war without being at war, and it’s a heavy burden on our economy and resources.

Diplomatic Connections: As a Jordanian, what would be an ideal Middle East from your point of view?

Ambassador Kawar: You’re allowing me to dream a little.

I would like that we get to the point where the whole community can co-exist peacefully, and that the political system will be more agenda based on projects, parties, and issues, like you have in Europe. You can be whoever you like and belong to whatever party you want, and not sectarian based. That would be fantastic. And open borders so people can travel and work without having security issues. It would be wonderful to have a two-state solution for Palestine, and that Israelis become part of the Middle East. These are dreams, but why not?

Diplomatic Connections: The two-state solution is not just a dream, it’s also an insistence, isn’t it? And yet the latest signal from the Trump administration on the two-state solution is mixed.

Ambassador Kawar: People keep referring to one statement that the president said, but I think what he was meaning to say was that he would agree with what the parties agreed upon. What he was saying was I would like the two parties to get their act together, solve the problem and I will bless what they’re happy with.

Diplomatic Connections: Ambassador Haley (the U.S. permanent representative to the UN) was much more emphatic in her insistence of the two-state solution. Does that mean you needed to advise Amman of a possible change in long-standing U.S. policy?

Ambassador Kawar: We are less confused than some people are here. The ambassador to the UN was going by the book of the state department policy and the president is being honest to what he is, which is more outspoken and out of the box, but it doesn’t mean there’s a change.

Diplomatic Connections: You were in Paris for 12 years. So is there much difference between being an ambassador in the French capital and in Washington?

Ambassador Kawar: The two were two different experiences but enjoyable in their respective ways. D.C. is a city of pure politics where we oscillate between administration, congress, think tanks and the press. Most of the discussions turn around current political topics. Paris has more variety in one place. It’s political but also economic and cultural.

Not to mention that the day lasts longer and so do the discussions over lunches and dinners. Moreover, the French love to entertain around cultural events and activities – which adds an enjoyable edge to our task.

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COOKI T N E C C A

WITH AN

CHEF MICHEL BASTID

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ING

Sunday, around 1 pm, the table is set for a big family reunion with faillance de Giens and the polished fancy silverware; it is time to enjoy a great lunch. While mother is still putting a final touch on the different plates, father is serving the aperitif, Suze, Pastis or a Kir (white wine with crème de cassis). The entire family is here, grandparents, uncles and aunts, all the kids running around; it is a tradition that nobody would want to miss. Today to start, they will enjoy Quenelles de Brochet (pike sausage), a specialty from Lyon, as well as escargot de Bourgogne (snails) with butter, garlic and parsley. There will also be some charcuteries, Pâté, Saucisse d’Auvergne, rosettes and rillettes du Mans. Then, since grandfather is originally from Normandy, the grown ups will have the “trou Normand,” a shot of fine Calvados to settle the stomach and to reawaken the palate. Mother considered preparing a Cassoulet, a Coq au Vin or a roasted chicken with a gratin Dauphinois but she decided to prepare a nice Gigot d’Agneau, slowly cooked in the oven on a grill, leaving the meat’s juices to fall on the potatoes placed on a pot under the grill. There will also be some fresh vegetables from the Sunday market. They will drink a nice red Médoc wine.

A fresh green salad will follow, before the cheese. Brie de Meaux, Roquefort, Chavignol, Saint Nectaire and a Pont-l'Évêque with fresh baguette and salted butter from Britany will be served. A Pouilly-fumé (white wine) and a Pinot noir (Red wine) will accompany the cheeses. But the meal will not be complete without dessert. Some profiteroles (puffs with ice cream and chocolate sauce, tarte aux fraises (Strawberry pie) will compete with the mousse au chocolat.

While the children leave the table to go play, the rest of the family will have a coffee or some Cognac or Armagnac.

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No wonder that French gastronomy is listed, since 2010, as part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. French carte du jour is an old cuisine, diversified and well known all over the world. The culinary heritage is very big; the “Haute Gastronomie” goes back to the XVIII century. Their agriculture is the first in Europe and it's in the world top list for quality meat. With the Mediterranean sea, the Atlantic and the Manche, French Cuisine is rich with all kinds of seafood.

Each region of France has its own specialties. The east will offer Flammkueche, Andouillette and Quiche; the north and northwest are well known for their Camembert, Crêpes and a large variety of seafood. The southwest offers Confit de Canard, Foie gras, Truffle and Cassoulet and the south, with the Mediterranean cuisine, will open your appetite with a Bouillabaisse (fish soup), a Salad Niçoise and a Ratatouille.

France is also well known for its wine, boasting one of the largest productions in the world. Due to the different climates and the geology of its soil, there are countless varieties: Alsace (pinot, Muscat); Beaujolais (Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent); Bordeaux (Château Lafite-Rothschild, Saint-Émilion, Château Pétrus); Burgundy (Chablis, Nuits-Saint-Georges); Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon (blanquette de Limoux); Loire (Sancerre , Chenin blanc, Muscadet); Provence (Rosé); and the Rhône (Côtes du Vivarais, Châteauneuf-du-Pape). It's more than a tradition; it's a life style. In the beginning of the 20th century, in the countryside, the workers were drinking a wine called “la piquette.” Today, this word would be used to describe a low quality wine; it was a red wine, very clear, with no or almost no tannins and around 7/8 degree of alcohol. This wine was popular with almost every kind of meal and also with cheese courses. From then on, people began to think that red wine only went well with cheeses. This, however, is not true. White wine can also go very well with cheese. A Sancerre or a Pouilly-fumé goes nicely with a goat cheese; a Comté pleasantly accompanies Château Chalon. Wines go with a number of corresponding plates, a nice red with meat, a cold white with fish and depending on the type of cheese, there will be a matching red, white or rosé.

General de Gaulle once said: “How can you govern a country which has two hundred and fortysix varieties of cheese?” Some will say that there is one different cheese for every day of the year, so 365 kinds. Others estimate that there are more than 1200 sorts. One thing is for sure, there is a lot of variety coming from each corner of the country. In Normandy, you will have the famous Camenbert, the Livarot or the Pont l’Evêque; in the Center, the Chavignol (goat), Sainte Maure de Touraine.

Going southwest, the delicious Bleu des Causes, le Rocamadour and, of course, the worldwide known Roquefort. In Auvergne, you will enjoy the Cantal, the Fourme d’Ambert and the excellent Saint Nectaire. The region of the Mediterranean, the Banon, the Brocciu and the Pélardon can be appreciated with a nice cold Rosé. The mountain of the Rhône-Alpes and the Savoie, are the home of the Picodon, the Fourme de Monbrison, the Beaufort, or the Reblochon; each one will bring a special flavor. Strong or mild, made from goat or cow, cooked or not, young or aged, there will be a flavor for each taste. Many of these cheeses are used in a variety of ways, for example to make sauce. Roquefort, for instance, can easily be enjoyed with a nice tender red meat.

u On our website, www.DiplomaticConnections.com, you can see the video we completed with Chef Bastid on how to prepare these delicious plates. You can also get the full recipes by downloading the pdf files.

What do three extraordinary and venerated chefs with the highly esteemed and hard-won Michelin stars behind their names, Michel Portos, Régis Marcon and Michel Troisgros, have in common?

It is not only the fact that they are three of the most accomplished “Haute Cuisine” French chefs, but also that they had in their tutelage, a young man who has been fascinated with cooking since he was a child. I am talking about Chef Michel Bastid, the Chef of the French Residence in Washington, D.C. Native of the LanguedocRoussillon-Midi-Pyrénées region, where the kindness of the people goes with the warm weather and the culinary tradition, Michel Bastid knew, early in his age, that he wanted to be a cook and do so at the pleasure of some of the most influential and powerful statesmen in the world. At the age of 17, he was taught by Chef Portos the basics of the Mediterranean cuisine. His career began with Chef Régis Marcon, where he was “Chef de partie” for nearly 3 years. Subsequent to that, he worked four years with his mentor, Michel Troisgros. The family name Troisgros is known as the top of the French gastronomy worldwide. Jean-Baptiste and Marie Troisgros started a restaurant, in 1930, in Roanne, in Burgundy.

They had two sons, Pierre and Jean, who worked and learned in the best dining establishments in France. But as time progressed, they went back to help with the family restaurant. Their first star was attained in 1955, the second in 1965 and the very prestigious

third star in 1968.

Michel Troisgros, son of Pierre, is the third generation of chefs in the family.

Chef Bastid, after four years as sous-chef of Michel Troisgros, went back to Bistro la Coulemelle to work as chef de cuisine with Régis Marcon. This is when he received the welldeserved “2016 Gault & Millaut Young Talent Award."

Chef Michel Bastid was kind enough to give us the recipes for a three course meal serving four persons. To start, Escargot de Bourgogne au beurre persillé et tarte fine parmesan, followed

by Paleron de boeuf ivre de vin rouge and to finish, the dessert, Sablé Breton aux framboises. After this delicious dinner or lunch, a Cognac will be much appreciated.

Enjoy and bon appetit! continued on page 54

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EMBASSY OF HUNGARY WASHINGTON, D.C. Diplomatic Connections wishes to formally thank Ambassador Réka Szemerkényi for hosting our Washington, D.C. International Diplomat Appreciation ReceptionTM

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KYRGYZ AMBASSADOR TO THE UNITED NATIONS REPRESENTS HER COUNTRY ON THE WORLD STAGE SEEKS SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT WHILE PRESERVING TRADITIONAL IDENTITY JAMES A. WINSHIP, PH.D.

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H.E. MS. MIRGUL MOLDOISAEVA PERMANENT REPRESENTATIVE OF THE KYRGYZ REPUBLIC TO THE UNITED NATIONS NORTH DELEGATES LOUNGE INSIDE THE UNITED NATIONS

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President of Kyrgyzstan Almazbek Atambaev

H.E. MS. MIRGUL MOLDOISAEVA is not only among the roughly three dozen women who serve as the Permanent Representatives of their country to the United Nations in New York, she is also among the youngest. So, too, her country – the Kyrgyz Republic or Kyrgyzstan was among a group of former Soviet Republics that joined the United Nations only in 1992 following the collapse and dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 and their emergence as sovereign states in their own right.

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UN Secretary-General António Guterres shaking hands with President Atambaev on the margins of the Munich Security Conference in February, 2017.

Earlier this year Kyrgyzstan along with four other Central Asian States – Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan – marked the 25th anniversary of their joining the United Nations, a critical acknowledgment of their newly gained sovereignty and their acceptance into the community of nation-states.

Acknowledging this anniversary, United Nations Secretary General Antonio Guterres noted that the Kyrgyz Republic had become a “reliable partner” with the United Nations.

“We managed,” the Secretary General observed, “to create strong cooperation in various fields, including the promotion of the electoral process, peace-building, conflict prevention and sustainable development.”

Geography is destiny for Kyrgyzstan. The country is landlocked and mountainous with an Alpine appearance. It has a long border with China to the East, Kazakhstan to the North and Tajikistan and Uzbekistan to the Southwest.

The Kyrgyz people, like many peoples of Central Asia, are historically nomadic moving through the mountain passes to follow the grazing lands. Those same mountain passes became crucial trading routes making up part of the Silk Road that moved from western China through Central Asia and on toward the Middle East and Europe.

Asserting their unique identity, the Kyrgyz people have a national epic story cycle that tells a generational trilogy of tales about Manas, a chieftain of the Kyrgyz people, and his son (Semetei) and grandson (Seytek) who struggled to build a homeland and to fight off neighboring hordes threatening his people. The Manas story cycle has become a core part of the collective memory of their people; it has become a living tradition that has not only shaped the identity of the Kyrgyz nation but insistently supported great uniqueness and undergirded their claims to sovereignty in the post-Soviet era. When the statue of Lenin was removed from the central square in Bishek, Kyrgyzstan’s capital, it was replaced with a statue of the legendary Manas, and a statue of Manas was gifted to the United Nations Headquarters in New York.

This oral tradition has informed Kyrgyzstan’s struggle to build and sustain a modern state, to end political corruption, and to develop a growing economy during a quarter century of independence. Moving from sovereignty toward what is described as a “social-oriented state with liberal values” has not been easy. The first two decades of Kyrgyz independence saw instability, corruption, economic stagnation, election fraud, and popular resistance met with repression. The result was revolutionary changes in government in 2005 and again in 2010.

Kyrgyzstan survived, but opportunities for political stability and economic development were squandered.

Following the 2010 upheaval, a Provisional Government under the leadership of Rosa Otunbaeva came to power with a mandate to reestablish the institutions of government and hold democratic elections. Despite sometimes severe flare-ups of interethnic violence this interim government was able to restore the rule of law, establish a new constitution and hold “free and transparent” elections under the supervision of the OSCE’s Office for Democratic Institutions and Human Rights.

On December 1, 2011, Almazbek Atambaev became President of the Kyrgyz Republic winning over fifteen challengers and gaining 62.5% of the vote. This competitive election, unusual for the Central Asian

Kyrgyz President Atambaev with German Chancellor Angela Merkel during her official visit to Kyrgyzstan in July, 2016.

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region, marked a milestone on Kyrgyzstan’s path toward democracy. Under the Kyrgyz Constitution, presidents serve a six-year term and are barred from running for reelection.

The 2017 presidential campaign is already underway with when Atambaev’s successor will be chosen and the transition of power will begin.

In the midst of this energetic and contentious political mix, Ambassador Moldoisaeva has emerged as a leading diplomatic voice shaping Kyrgyzstan’s foreign policy and representing it on the international stage. She is trained as a lawyer receiving her bachelor’s degree in international law from the International University of Kyrgyzstan in 2000 and a master’s degree in civil law from the Kyrgyz State National University in 2003.

From 2005-2011 Moldoisaeva served as a desk officer for Kyrgyz foreign policy and relations with the Western countries and the United Nations in several government offices. From 2011-2014, she served as Expert and Chief of the Situational and Analytical Unit of the Foreign Policy Department in the President’s Office. Before being named to her present position, Ambassador Moldoisaeva served as Head of the International Cooperation Department of the Government Office of the Kyrgyz Republic.

Despite her demanding schedule of UN meetings and the presence of a high-level Kyrgyz delegation in New York at the time, Ambassador Moldoisaeva was generous enough to answer our questions and offer insights into Kyrgyzstan’s role at the United Nations.

Diplomatic Connections: Kyrgyzstan recently celebrated the 25th anniversary of joining the United Nations. What is the significance of that occasion? What is the importance of the United Nations to Kyrgyzstan’s diplomacy?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: Over the past quarter century, the United Nations has made a significant contribution to the social economic development of Kyrgyzstan and reforms in key areas. In particular, joint economic projects are being implemented, reforms are being carried out in the law enforcement and judicial branches of the country, and the electoral system is being substantially improved.

Earlier this year the President of the Kyrgyz Republic, H.E. Mr. Almazbek Atambaev, and the UN SecretaryGeneral, H.E. Mr. Antonio Guterres, met on the margins of the Munich Security Conference to discuss current issues. Together they expressed a readiness to develop multifaceted cooperation. Our cooperation with the United Nations system is developing dynamically, bringing visible 70

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results, and promoting full integration of Kyrgyzstan into the world political and economic system.

Diplomatic Connections: How has Kyrgyzstan involved itself in the work of the United Nations?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: The Kyrgyz Republic has been repeatedly elected to various bodies of the United Nations and its specialized agencies. We became a member of the UN Commission on Sustainable Development for 20092012 and have twice been elected to the UN Human Rights Council for the periods 2009-2012 and 2016-2018.

Kyrgyzstan has also served as Vice-President of the UN General Assembly and Deputy Chair of the UN Council on Human Rights.

The Kyrgyz Republic’s role in the UN is also visible in its contributions to UN peacekeeping activities. Beginning in 1998, we were the first country in Central Asia to take part in the UN peacekeeping missions making a practical contribution to maintenance of international peace and safety. At present, our individual military observers and police officers are participating in three UN peacekeeping missions in South Sudan, Darfur and Abyei (Sudan/South Sudan).

Diplomatic Connections: What do you consider to be some of Kyrgyzstan’s most important diplomatic accomplishments at the United Nations?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: Kyrgyzstan has put forward a number of initiatives through which the community of nations knows and better understands our country, our history and cultural heritage. The UN General Assembly has recognized the 1000th anniversary of the great epic «Manas», the 3000th anniversary of the city of Osh and the 2200th anniversary of the Kyrgyz statehood.

The sacred mountain Suleiman-Too in Kyrgyzstan is listed as a World Cultural Heritage site by UNESCO. On the initiative of the Kyrgyz Republic, December 11 was proclaimed the International Day of the Mountains, and February 20 - World Day of Social Justice. Last year, we entered the “Group of Friends” of the Alliance of Civilizations. Promotion of such national symbols and ideas at the international level reinforces awareness of Kyrgyzstan’s cultural tradition and underscores our historic role in the world.

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: The most important lesson is that power in the country should not be completely owned by one person and his family.

Unfortunately, the events of the “Tulip Revolution” in 2005 did not become a lesson for the subsequent government.

That is why our people were forced to overthrow another family-clan regime in April 2010. These wrenching events have become unfortunate memories, but they are also important stages in the complex process of democratic development and building a new Kyrgyz society and institutions of government.

Diplomatic Connections: How were the government and the political system of Kyrgyzstan restructured in the aftermath of these revolutionary events?

Diplomatic Connections: The geographic location of Kyrgyzstan is notable. You are a land locked country and share a long border with China as well as borders with Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan. How do these geographic facts of life impact Kyrgyzstan’s diplomacy?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: The ancient routes of the Great Silk Road passed through our territory. Therefore, our transit position is a great resource. The government is making great efforts to develop logistics and transport services in the field of infrastructure, aviation and the railway.

We are both a geographical and a political bridge between Europe and Asia, the East and the West, the North and the South. The location of our country allows us to promote an atmosphere of cooperation on a huge continent. This dictates the development of multi-vector and multi-level cooperation in diplomacy, but it also forces us to conduct a balanced foreign policy.

Diplomatic Connections: In the course of its young life, the Kyrgyz Republic has experienced two substantial revolutions against the government in power, in 2005 and again in 2010.

What are the lessons of these internal upheavals?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: In order to avoid the risk of a return to totalitarian family-clan rule, Kyrgyzstan was the first in Central Asian country to develop parliamentary democracy. The powers of the president are limited to one 6-year term. A system of “checks and balances” has been established. The Parliament (Supreme Council) is elected by party lists in a multiple party system with seats awarded proportionately.

Parties collectively holding a majority of seats in the parliament must form a coalition government. The opposition heads the work of the key committees of the Parliament responsible for budget and finance, public order and security.

In 2015, parliamentary elections were held in Kyrgyzstan using biometric voting data to identify voters, clear ballot boxes to prevent ballot stuffing and electronic reading machines to protect the counting process. Thanks to these procedures the election results were widely accepted as legitimate and a new national government was put in place. The political situation has been stabilized, and, as a result, the economy is developing, new investments are being made, large-scale projects are being implemented, the security of the state is being strengthened and civil society is expanding.

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(L-R) CIS executive secretary Sergei Lebedev; Azerbaijan's president Ilham Aliyev; Armenia's president Serzh Sargsyan; Belarusian president Alexander Lukashenko; Kazakhstan's president Nursultan Nazarbaev; Kyrgyzstan's president Almazbek Atambaev, Russia's president Vladimir Putin; Tajikistan's president Emomali Rakhmon; Moldova's prime minister Pavel Filip; Turkmenistan's vice-prime minister Bäimmyrat Hojamämmedow; and Uzbekistan's minister of foreign affairs Abdulaziz Kamilov during a photograph session at a CIS summit in September, 2016.

Diplomatic Connections: Kyrgyzstan is part of two important Russian-led regional organizations: (1) CSTO – the Collective Security Treaty Organization; and (2) EAEU – the Eurasian Economic Union. What is the importance of each of these organizations to Kyrgyzstan’s security and economy?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: Strong allied relations have developed between Kyrgyzstan and Russia. There is a wide interaction between us because we have a common history and share common cultural and societal space.

Since we were so long a part of the Soviet Union, there are substantial pre-existing trade and economic relationships.

Russia provides us financial, humanitarian, technical and military-technical assistance.

The Kyrgyz Republic is co-founder of the CSTO and our activities are aimed at jointly countering the threats of international terrorism, religious extremism, drug trafficking, weapons, and illegal migration.

This is a necessary condition for ensuring security and stability in Central Asia, especially when seen through the prism of the continuing Afghan problem.

Diplomatic Connections: And the Eurasian Economic Union?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: No country can be isolated from global and regional realities.

Therefore, Kyrgyzstan joined the Eurasian Economic Union, which is designed to

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facilitate the freedom of movement of goods, services, capital and labor within a single market uniting 180 million people.

This year, Kyrgyzstan is chairing the EAEU. We intend to focus on improving the rules of trade and removing barriers, exemptions and restrictions across the integrated market. At the same time, the EAEU brings together the economies of Europe and Asia, which coordinates with China’s goal of developing a “Silk Road Economic Belt.”

Diplomatic Connections: What is the role of China in Kyrgyzstan’s security and economy?

Kyrgyz President Almazbek Atambaev and his wife, Raisa Atambaeva, meet with Chinese President Xi Jinping and his wife, Peng Liyuan, at the Diaoyutai State Guesthouse in Beijing, China on January 6, 2017.

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: We have established a solid strategic partnership with our neighbor, China. A series of treaties defines common goals and directions for longterm and stable development of Kyrgyz-Chinese relations.

There is bilateral support for issues of critical importance to each partner. Kyrgyzstan maintains its unwavering support of the People’s Republic of China on Taiwan, Tibet, Xinjiang, and the fight against “three evil forces” – terrorism, extremism and separatism. China supports Kyrgyzstan’s sovereignty, independence and security and offers assistance to develop our national economy.

religion, but we have experienced international terrorist incidents. Inevitably, extremist and terrorist organizations in the Middle East and Africa extend their ideological influence to the countries of Central Asia and pose a threat to us.

The concept “Silk Road Economic Belt” is attractive not only from the geographical point of view, but also from the potential of economic partnership. We have advantages in the form of a favorable geographical location and huge energy potential.

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: UNRCCA was created not as a reaction to the presence of immediate conflict, but as a measure to prevent possible threats. Conflict resolution before the outbreak of violence is one of the most reasonable types of investment that we can make.

Prevention is an investment in peace.

Diplomatic Connections: Has Kyrgyzstan had to deal with the emergence of extremist movements within your predominantly Muslim population? How has your country dealt with the growing presence of outside Islamic movements among the Kyrgyz population?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: Since its independence, the Kyrgyz Republic has supported freedom of conscience and

There is an understanding in Kyrgyzstan that religion must not be turned into an ideological tool to spur extremism and justify violent acts. At the same time, we recognize the danger that attempts to prevent extremist violence and bans against certain groups may unfairly stigmatize religion and encourage further radicalization in society.

Democratic development is the best alternative to the lure of religious extremism.

Diplomatic Connections: Please tell us about the work of the United Nations Center for Regional Preventive Diplomacy in Central Asia (UNRCCA), which is now ten years old. What is Kyrgyzstan’s role in this regional center?

The member states of UNRCCA have identified priority areas of concern to regional security in Central Asia. These include transnational threats such as terrorism, extremism, organized crime and illicit drug trafficking; environmental degradation and management of cross-border hydro-electric continue to page 76

Nezir Aliyev/Anadolu Agency/Getty Images

President of Kyrgyzstan Almazbek Atambaev (C); President of Russia Vladimir Putin (3rd R); President of Kazakhstan Nursultan Nazarbaev (3rd L); President of Belarus Alexander Lukashenko (2nd L); President of Armenia Serzh Sargsyan (L); and President of Tajikistan, Emomali Rahmon (2nd R) pose for a photo during an unofficial summit meeting of the Collective Security Treaty Organization (CSTO) in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan on April 14, 2017.

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President of Kazakhstan Nursultan Nazarbaev in Cholpon-Ata, Kyrgyzstan

King Philippe of Belgium in Brussels, February, 2017

Russian President Vladimir Putin during his official visit to Kyrgyzstan in February, 2017

High Representative of the European Union for Foreign Affairs and Security Policy Federica Mogherini in Brussels, February, 2017

President of the European Commission Jean-Claude Juncker in Brussels, February, 2017

PRESIDENT OF KYRGYZSTAN ALMAZBEK ATAMBAEV WITH:

Members of the World Humanitarian Summit in Istanbul, Turkey, May, 2016

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resources; and, regional security in the context of the situation in Afghanistan.

The opening ceremony was seen by about 800 million viewers around the world.

Diplomatic Connections: Kyrgyzstan is the organizer of the World Nomad Games, first held in 2014 and again in 2016. Why was it thought to be a good idea to create these games?

I am proud to note that on December 22, 2016, during the 67th plenary session, the UN General Assembly adopted a resolution on “Promotion of Interreligious and Intercultural Dialogue, Mutual Understanding and Cooperation for Peace”, in which the “World Nomad Games” received international recognition as an instrument of intercultural dialogue, mutual understanding and cooperation for the benefit of peace and development.

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: In search of ways to preserve cultural diversity and humanize sports, in 2012 the President of the Kyrgyz Republic Almazbek Atambaev proposed holding the first ever “World Nomad Games”. The project focuses on reviving and preserving the traditions of nomadic civilizations and their spiritual heritage.

The second “World Nomad Games” took place on the shores of Issyk-Kul Lake in September 2016. More than 1200 athletes from 62 countries took part and competed in 23 national sports. Euronews, NHK, Al Jazeera, China TV, Deutsche Welle, Russia Today, Reuters, National Geographic, Associated Press, Xinhua covered World Nomadic Games-2.

Diplomatic Connections: Kyrgyzstan has been instrumental in establishing the International Day of the Snow Leopard. Could you tell us something about this species in Kyrgyzstan and the international efforts being made to protect it?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: The snow leopard is not only a sacred symbol for many peoples, representing the transcendent “spirit” of the majestic mountains, but it is

Opening ceremony of the Second World Nomad Games held in Kyrgyzstan in September, 2016.

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Animal Press/Barcroft Images/Barcroft Media via Getty Images

city, Bishek. Efforts to stop illegal trade and poaching, protect habitat, respond to climate change and reduce human-leopard conflict are all crucial to protecting the snow leopard population.

also one of the most important indicators of the health of high mountain ecosystems. In order to draw attention to the declining population, fragmented habitat and threatened disappearance of the snow leopard, Kyrgyz President Atambaev convened the "World Forum on the Preservation of the Snow Leopard" in 2013. This year (2017) the International Forum on the Conservation of the Snow Leopard and Its Ecosystems will be held in our capital Ambassador Moldoisaeva with the gift of the Government of Kyrgyzstan to the UN, which was presented on October 25, 1995.

Diplomatic Connections: Your government presented a statue of Manas as a gift to the United Nations. That gift now has an honored place in the entrance lobby of the General Assembly building in New York. What is the importance of the epic tradition of Manas in Kyrgyz lore and Kyrgyz identity?

Ambassador Moldoisaeva: The epic “Manas” is a cultural encyclopedia of our people’s experience. It encompasses all aspects of the social consciousness and life of Kyrgyz people: mythology and religion, customs, philosophy and aesthetics, folk games and entertainment, morality and norms of behavior. To this day the Kyrgyz people draw important lessons of morality and human values from it.

The greatness of Manas, expressed in this epic tradition, is that he was dedicated to the ideal of cultural identity and the unification of his people. These are the same ideas that lead to the idea of the nation-state, sovereignty, security and collaborative internationalism.

Diplomatic Connections: May this Kyrgyz gift to the United Nations serve as a constant reminder that the work of the United Nations is always to protect the cultural identity and rights of peoples, the security of states, pursue the goal of peace making when conflicts arise and sustain the determination expressed in the United Nations Charter “to reaffirm faith in fundamental human rights, in the dignity and worth of the human person, in the equal rights of men and women and of nations large and small.”

Ambassador Moldoisaeva, thank you for your insights.

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Sรณlfar or Sun Voyager, by Jรณn Gunnar ร rnason, glints on the shores of Reykjavik. Backdropped by sky, sea and mountains, the skeletal stainless steel sculpture evokes a Viking ship.

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Iceland Finding Bliss on the

Island of Fire and Ice

BY MONICA FRIM • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN FRIM AND MONICA FRIM

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ouching the Arctic Circle and splayed over two constantly shifting continental plates, Iceland is a land of magic and extremes. Glaciers and volcanic

springs exist side by side, waterfalls roar over a wrinkled landscape of gnarled rocks covered in fluorescent green moss, geysers explode skyward while mud pools seethe and bubble as if the ground itself were on fire.

It should not come as a surprise that in terms of tourism, this beautiful cold speck of land in the North Atlantic Ocean is now one of the hottest vacation destinations in the world.

Visitors are swarming to the island, sidling so close to the natural attractions as to feel the spray of the waterfalls and geysers, hiking along the wave pounded black sand beaches with their lava stacks and basalt caves or clamoring among glaciers, mountains and volcanic fields that give way to hot springs and simple outdoor pleasures.

Others opt for city attractions where museums, galleries, concert halls, shops and all-night bars vie with historical buildings in quaint neighborhoods riddled with parks and colorful timber houses.

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So it is that Reykjavik, Iceland’s cosmopolitan capital, has managed to retain an aura of small town friendliness and charm that belies its role as an energetic and modern metropolis. Contemporary buildings incorporate timehonored elements from Iceland’s unique landscape into avant-garde designs that champion both architecture and nature.

The city’s most identifiable landmark, Halgrímskirkja, is an ultramodern church that externally mimics the basalt columns that dot the landscape, yet pays homage to tradition with its vaulted ceiling, conventional nave and gothic window. Likewise Harpa, the concert hall and convention center, synthesizes art and nature with overtones of icebergs and northern lights in its multifaceted glass design.

Even a lowly water tower takes on new life as a rotating restaurant under a futuristic glass dome surrounded by six hot water storage tanks. Known as The Pearl, the facility also offers a 360-degree viewing platform, exhibition space, shops and a café known for its delicious ice cream.

Halgrímskirkja in Reykjavik is Iceland’s tallest church. Built to mimic the volcanic basalt columns that are found all over Iceland, the church blends a modern exterior with surprisingly traditional interior elements.

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Similarly, Nordic House, the Scandinavian culture center designed by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, also marries modernism with organic elements. Its blue ceramic rooftop recalls the shape of the nearby mountains. Cookbook author and Icelandic television personality Sveinn Kjartansson runs its Alto Bistro Restaurant and serves up delightful repasts made from Iceland’s freshest local ingredients.

The rampant growth in tourism is straining the infrastructure as Iceland struggles to cope. Last year, almost 1,800,000 people visited the country whose resident population numbers only slightly above 300,000 people, with more than a third of the inhabitants residing in the capital city of Reykjavik. The government is now heavily engaged in building new facilities (hotels, offices and shopping centers) and enacting laws to protect the fragile ecosystems and natural surroundings. While Reykjavik teems with construction cranes, the countryside is under threat of being trampled to death by tourists. Salvation can come only with new rules that forbid free-camping

Kirkjufell Mountain on the north side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula towers in the mist over its namesake waterfalls, Kirkjufellsfoss.

Chunks of calving ice from the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier float into Jökulsárlón, a glacial lagoon on the edge of Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. Some of the icebergs drift into the Atlantic Ocean or come to rest on the black volcanic beach.

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or roaming over rare lichens and mosses that have taken hundreds of years to grow. While the legendary elves and trolls that hide beneath this fairytale landscape are mere figments of an imagination stimulated by a wind-blasted lunar terrain, they metaphorically aid in the protection of the environment through their reputed respect for nature and nostalgia. Locals and tourists alike would be wise to respect them.

Iceland is one of the safest and friendliest countries in the world. As such, visitors should have no qualms about renting a car (the best way to see the island) and striking out on their own. Everyone speaks English and if your car should break down, be assured that someone will stop to help.

Most of Iceland’s largest and most beautiful waterfalls are along or close to the Ring Road, an 800-mile highway formally known as Route 1 that circles the island, although calling this road a highway is something of a misnomer. It’s a two-lane road that dwindles to a single lane over bridges.

If the road is closed due to an accident or inclement weather, people simply stay put until the road opens again.

As the country’s only interconnecting artery, you’re at its mercy. In good weather you could do a marathon drive around the island in a single day, but taking anything less than a week to drive it would be an injustice. This is a case where the journey is the destination so be prepared at all times to stop for photos. Keep a lookout for reindeer, sheep and small, furry Icelandic horses (it’s an insult to call them ponies). A variety of birds from puffins, plovers, ptarmigan, snipes to eiders round out the fauna, especially around the cliffs and coastal headlands.

Icelandair offers free stopovers in Iceland for those traveling between North America and Europe. If you have only a day or two to visit, you’re selling yourself short, though not too short for a jaunt through Reykjavik, and a dip in the fabled Blue Lagoon. Add another day or two for Pastel facades of seafront buildings in Reykjavik.

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a tour of the Golden Circle, Iceland’s most popular tour that takes in the waterfall of Gullfoss, the Geysir geothermal area and the historic rift valley of Thingvellir where Iceland’s first parliament took place more than a thousand years ago.

The thing about Iceland is you really won´t know what you´re getting until you´re there. The only predictable thing is the country´s unpredictability—at least as far as weather.

And so even the best made plans can go awry.

We had booked a tour of the Golden Circle along with snorkeling in the Silfra fissure, a tectonic rift between the American and Eurasian continental plates that’s filled with crystal clear glacial meltwater. It’s the only place on earth where you can snorkel between two tectonic plates. I could barely contain my excitement at the thought of snorkeling a few miles short of the Arctic Circle where the water maintains a constant temperature of 35°F year-round and visibility extends to an amazing 300 feet, thanks to the filtering effect of the lava rocks.

The day started with a pleasant drive, slightly overcast but with an occasional burst of sunshine. Soon the sky closed over the sun and flattened the lumpy green fields with a pewter fog. October’s wiles brought drizzles that turned to ice pellets then snow. An hour into the drive, our driver stopped, then reversed direction as the road ahead was closed due to a traffic accident farther up. Our only way forward was backward—to Reykjavik from where we could take another road to our first stop in Thingvellir. This road too became unnavigable due to ice. So back again to Reykjavik and a switch to a heavier vehicle that could safely handle the icy road. But would we still be able to snorkel? Oh yes, our driver assured the 12 members of our group: the weather doesn’t affect the water.

Perhaps not, but nightfall did. By the time we donned drysuits over something called a teddy bear suit (a downfilled jumpsuit like a baby’s onesie) and entered the long

and narrow canyon, it was dusk. It was pitch black when conical Kirkjufell Mountain, could best be described as cute. we emerged from the water, numb-faced from the cold Supposedly it’s the most photographed waterfall in Iceland. By and dumb struck by the sheer craziness of having snorkeled the end of our trip we had seen waterfalls from above, below, for over an hour in the dark. Nevertheless, it had been an behind and full frontal. Short of going over the falls, I couldn’t easy float, aided by a gentle current that safely carried imagine a more intimate encounter. even the weakest swimmers down the channel. Amazingly, Iceland has such a diversity of natural attractions, that you could still see the jagged rocks and sandy bottom in one wonders how they all fit on the island. Everywhere you the clear obsidian waters despite the cloudy night sky—like look there is a stunning landmark, shaped either by the watching a black and white movie. But in my imagination I ubiquitous winds or tectonic activity. As cliffs and mountains saw myself swimming in high definition blues and greens rise on the interior side of the ring road, the fierce North of daylight under a brilliant Atlantic Ocean pummels the sun! Did I feel cheated? You coast. Here and there tiny bet! The day’s mishaps had white farmhouses with bright caused us to miss Gullfoss red metal roofs nestle at the and the geysers too, base of the mountains, many although we did manage with their own waterfalls a short stop in Thingvellir. streaming right into their On the plus side, we had farmyards. squeezed four seasons into Iceland is full of nature’s a single day. sculptures—from glacial For the next week ice to basaltic columns to we drove a rental car, mossy outcrops that look like following the ring road deep-pile blankets atop an around the island and underground community of stopping according to our legendary trolls. whims and the vagaries of On the south coast, the landscape. Throughout the tongue-twisting the island waterfalls Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier Harpa, Reykjavik’s concert hall and conference center is also the home of the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, Icelandic Opera and Reykjavik Big Band. tumbled in various shapes breaks into chunks of glittering and configurations, each with its own quirks and vantages. ice that turn into luminous blue icebergs in the Jökulsárlón In the south we stood under a promontory behind the falls Iceberg Lagoon before they drift out to sea. Not all make at Seljalandsfoss, above the falls at Skógafoss, and followed it to the ocean—some come to rest on the pebbly black the clifftop walk to the falls at Dettifoss in the north. In the glacial beach, forming capricious statuettes that stand like northwest, a double rainbow loomed over the horse-shoeglassy museum pieces in an outdoor gallery. At low tide you shaped Goðafoss, while, on the Snæfellsness Peninsula in can walk right up and touch the stranded bergs or take an the west, Kirkjufellsfoss, set against the backdrop of the inflatable zodiac to get close to the ones afloat in the lagoon.

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Set among black volcanic rocks, the Blue Lagoon is Iceland’s most iconic spa. Its thermal waters are rich with healthful silica and sulfur.

The Mývatn area in the north of Iceland is known for mountains, fumaroles and hot springs.

Powerful fumaroles at the geothermal field at Hverir in northern Iceland.

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Thousands of bergs crackle and tinkle, bobbing like buoys in the waves, some keeling over with a thud, others resting on shore in various stages of flux. We spent half a day watching, waiting, touching and capering among the shoreline shards, always mindful that icebergs are as unpredictable as the sea that carried them ashore. If we could choose only one thing to see in Iceland, the Jökulsárlón Iceberg Lagoon with its glistening ice sculptures, strewn like diamonds, wins hands down!

There’s not much to do in the sparsely inhabited east but drive and take in the scenery: a deeply indented coastline of fjords, mountains, hardy Icelandic horses, sheep and the only place in Iceland where reindeer roam in the wild. The silence in this corner of the country is sublime.

In terms of vegetation, Iceland is barren and practically treeless. The sparse forest of Hallormsstaður, Iceland’s largest, in the east is easily missed if you blink as you drive by. The standing joke is if you do find yourself lost in the forest, stand up.

But continue driving north and the landscape comes alive as it simmers and heaves with thermal activity. Just south of the Ring Road at Hverir the ginger-colored ground seethes and rumbles as fumaroles shoot clouds of white sulfurous steam into the air, and blue and grey mud pools bubble like cauldrons of witches’ brew along the footpaths. You can feel the planet’s power hanging in the acrid air, cautionary and portending.

Nearby, the thermal, mineral- and silicate-laden waters at the Myvatn Nature Baths draw on nature’s geothermal gifts to give bathers a healthful and soothing experience but on a smaller scale than that of the Blue Lagoon near Reykjavik.

Many people actually prefer the simplicity of the baths at Myvatn to the more touristy Blue Lagoon.

Lake Myvatn itself is peppered with islets and lava pillars.

Other natural formations—from dramatic basalt sculptures to pseudo craters that look like giant moss-covered bubbles—dot the surrounding landscape. The pseudo craters are not really craters but giant depressions created by lava flowing over wet ground. Also the result of volcanic eruptions, the sculptural lava spires and caves at Dimmuborgir (the name means dark castles), are among the most rugged and beautiful in the country. Several colour-coded paths wind throughout the park.

One of the most dramatic routes is a mile-long path that leads to a spectacular domed cave, known as Kirkjan (church).

Gateway to this volcanic area is Akureyri, the second largest city in Iceland and the capital of the north. The city nestles alongside a scenic fjord and boasts shops and restaurants to rival the ones in Reykjavik. But its best drawing feature is arguably the aurora borealis. If you haven’t seen the northern lights D I P L O M AT I C C O N N E C T I O N S B U S I N E S S E D I T I O N | M AY – J U N E 2 0 1 7

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Boiling mud pools and hissing fumaroles at Hverir.

The craggy lava formations at Dimmuborgir evoke a fairytale world of canyons, cliffs and arches.

elsewhere, you’re practically guaranteed a glimpse outside this city, providing it’s a crisp and clear night.

Many people dismiss the weak grey streaks in the night sky as wispy clouds and don’t give them another thought. But keep watching and they just might increase in intensity. In any case it’s worth aiming your camera at the “clouds” and holding the exposure for 15 or 20 seconds.

The naked eye may see only white, but if the resulting image looks green, you’ve captured a weak performance on camera.

From Akureyri the ring road leads straight down and back to Reykjavik but it’s worth leaving the road and heading west to the esoteric Snæfellsness Peninsula. Along the coast, waves smash against volcanic rocks and shape them into outcrops, arches and blowholes. Beautiful yellow bays and beaches stretch in contrast to the black beaches found in the rest of the country. In fact the entire peninsula glows gold and green, its lava fields covered in the fairy moss and amber grasses that, according to Icelandic folklore, shelter the fairies and trolls. Supposedly, the two volcanoes of Stapafell and Snæfellsnessjökull exude a powerful energy that makes them two of the most mystical places in Iceland and, possibly, the world. Jules Verne must have felt their energy. He used Snæfellsnessjökull as the setting for his novel Journey to the Center of the Earth.

For travelers who feel they have been everywhere and seen it all, this frigid isle at the top of the world offers refreshing superlatives that outshine anything else on this planet. But I’d be willing to bet that somewhere, millions of miles away, a distant planet looks just like Iceland.

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Iceland is full of fast-flowing rivers with water clean enough to drink.

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Diplomatic thanks the following sponsors: Promote Iceland Sundagarðar 2 104 Reykjavik, Iceland www.inspiredbyiceland.com visiticeland@promoteiceland.com

Reykjavik: Visit Reykjavik Reykjavik City Hall 101 Reykjavik, Iceland Tel: 354 411 6004 or 354 891 6304 www.visitreykjavik.is

Visit South Iceland Fjölheimar við Tryggvagarð 800 Selfoss, Iceland Tel: 00 354 560 2030 www.south.is info@south.is

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East Iceland Regional Information Centre 700 Egilsstöðum, Iceland +354 471 2320 www.east.is info@east.is

Visit North Iceland: The Arctic North Hafnastræti 91, 600 Akureyri, Iceland www.northiceland.is www.facebook.com/NorthIceland www.youtube.com/NorthIceland

West Iceland Marketing Office Borgarbraut 58-60 310 Borgarnesi, Iceland Tel: 354 437 2214 www.westiceland.is info@westiceland.is

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Icelandair 1-800-223-5500 www.icelandair.us

Europcar Iceland Höldur ehf – Bílaleiga Akureyrar Europcar Franchisee Iceland Tel: 354 461 6000 www.holdur.is beggi@holdur.is

Centerhotel Arnarhvoll P.O. Box 5378, 125 Reykjavik, Iceland Tel: 354 595 8540 www.centerhotels.com arnarhvoll@centerhotels.com

Alto Bistro Restaurant

Hotel Laki

Icelandair Hotel Akureyri

The Nordic House Sturlugata 5 101 Reykjavik, Iceland Tel: 354 551 0200 www.aalto.is aalto@bordstofan.is

Efri-Vik, 800 Kirkjubaejarklaustur, Iceland Tel: 354 487 4694 www.hotellaki.is/en hotellaki@hotellaki.is

Thingvallastraeti 23 600 Akureyri, Iceland tel: 354 444 4000 https://www.icelandairhotels.com/en/ hotels/akureyri akureyri@icehotels.is

Arctic Adventures Tel: +354 562-7000 www.adventures.is info@adventures.is

Bella Apartments and Rooms Austurvegur 33 - 35 800 Selfoss, Iceland Tel: 354 859 6162 http://www.south.is/en/services/ bella-apartments-rooms info@bellahotel.is

Gistihúsið – Lake Hotel Egilsstadir Egilsstaðir 1-2 700 Egilsstaðir, Iceland Tel: 354 471 1114 http://www.east.is/en/what-tosee-and-do/services/gistihusid-lakehotel-egilsstadir hotel@lakehotel.is

Bifröst Hotel Bifröst 311 Bogarnes, Iceland Tel: 354 433 3030 www.hotelbifrost.is hotel@bifrost.is

The Blue Lagoon 240 Grindavik, Iceland Tel: 354 420 8800 www.bluelagoon.com contact@bluelagoon.com

The Northern Lights, also known as Aurora Borealis, can be seen during dark, clear nights from September to April. The phenomenon occurs when electrically charged particles from the sun enter the earth’s atmosphere and collide with atoms of gas around the magnetic north pole.

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MANAGING OPERATING COSTS OF FOREIGN GOVERNMENT OWNED REAL ESTATE ASSETS IN NEW YORK CITY Foreign Governments See the Financial Value of Ownership in The Big City In NYC most businesses choose to rent their office space rather than own it. However, this is not the case for foreign governments looking for a prestigious piece of “The Big City.”

Countries look at NYC as a safe haven to place their investment money. That is why they often do not castoff the opportunity of owning the crown jewel of real estate, as they are in it for the long haul. However, that safety net comes at a substantial price.

The majority of businesses avoid the purchase of real estate

Asia and they exist in every market in the U.S., except NYC.

largely due to the sizable upfront costs. Although renting

This is mainly due to the cultural and sociological consumer

offices in Manhattan can aggregate to double the occupancy

behavior differences between regions. A large majority of

costs long-term, conventional businesses often enter leases

businesses in NYC tend to be transient due to the rapid pace

that call for them (the tenant) to pay the cost of property

the city moves in, while foreign government entities tend

taxes regardless of their international status. Governmental

to have a long-term goal for their real estate investments.

organizations have tax-exempt status on their real estate

For example, an owner of a 5,500 square foot office

holdings, which saves them the cost of property taxes.

condominium on 2nd Ave near the UN may pay an average

Commercial condominium (or condo) is an opportunity individually owned unit that is part of a larger multi-unit building with various businesses as owners. A condo owner also receives an undivided interest in the common areas of

of $7,500 per month in common charges. A space rented of that exact size and location can be upwards of $25,000 per month. Yet, office condominiums only make up 2 percent of the NYC office market.

the building, including the hallways, parking areas (a rare

One such condominium where multi-country missions

occurrence in Manhattan), property grounds, etc. There can

and consulates reside is the 15-story office building, 2 Dag

be dozens of unit owners in a 30-story Manhattan office

Hammarskjöld Plaza (named after the Swedish Diplomat and

building. Office condominiums are prevalent in Europe and

2nd secretary-general of the UN). “2 Dag” is a condominium

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office building just steps away from the United Nations HQ

income for the owners whenever and wherever possible.

in NYC and houses the consular offices for Saudi Arabia,

Some nations will hire management companies to oversee

Portugal, Greece, Bahrain, Ethiopia, Morocco, and Jordan

their own income-generating properties while also saving

amongst other commercial offices and retail space. Office

countries money on energy costs, supplies, insurance,

condominium ownership at 2 Dag Hammarskjold Plaza Condo

to even services like electrical and plumbing (due to the

allows countries to lock in their occupancy costs and insulate

management company’s large purchasing power and

themselves from the ever-rising expense of office leasing in

economies of scale). “I can say that unfortunately, that

Midtown Manhattan. Metropolitan Pacific Properties is the

reputation of being rich in cash has reverberated beyond the

Property Management company and Realtor for 2 Dag Hammarskjold Plaza and works exclusively with the diplomatic community to manage their Real Estate assets in NYC. Brandon Osman, COO of the

25-year-old family firm is a fiduciary of hundreds of millions of dollars’ worth of foreign real estate assets in midtown-east. He is also in charge of taking care of the day-to-day operation of the building

Metropolitan Pacific Properties

NYC real estate industry.” Osman states. “People recognize that the

is the Property Management

foreign client is an easy target for

company and Realtor for 2 Dag

are not familiar with the region. We

Hammarskjold Plaza and works

price gouging because they often have seen it all too frequently where governments are taken advantage of

exclusively with the diplomatic

by contractors and charged ‘more-

community to manage their

rendered services.” It takes a strong

Real Estate assets in NYC.

than-industry standards’ for the same Property Management company in accordance with the Condominium

including overseeing staff, security and compliance with

Board to fight for every single penny when it comes to

city regulations. The owners of the condominium pay the

spending money on building operations and building

management company in the form of a small monthly

improvement costs.

“common charge” so that they may take care of the property and run it safely and efficiently.

Right now is a great time to buy and own Commercial Real Estate in NYC and a qualified property manager will

Having a property management company run the operations

make these investments much simpler and cost effective

of a country’s commercial property is beneficial to owners

for owners no matter what part of the world they come

because they have the resources and experience it takes to

from. If you would like to learn more about how a property

manage and hold real estate in any particular locality. Simply,

management can help save your country money on building

they can take the stresses out of real estate ownership.

operating costs and earn additional income, call or email

Osman also looks at ways of saving and even generating

us today.

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• IN FO@MET PACPROPERT IES.COM • (212) 944- 91 0 0

PROUDLY SERVING SERVING THE THE PROUDLY DIPLOMATIC COMMUNITY COMMUNITY DIPLOMATIC

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For Formore moreinformation, information,please pleasevisit visitour ourwebsite websiteWWW.METPACPROPERTIES.COM, WWW.METPACPROPERTIES.COM,call callororemail: email:

(212) (212)944-9100 944-9100 info@metpacproperties.com info@metpacproperties.com

9882 SOUTH SANTA MONICA BOULEVARD, BEVERLY HILLS, CA 90212, USA TEL: +1 ( 310) 551 2888 E-MAIL: PBH @ PENINSULA .COM Hong Kong • Shanghai • Beijing • Tok yo • New Yor k • Chic ago • Beverly Hills • Paris • B angkok • Manila • p e n i n s u l a . c o m

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