IN THE KITCHEN WITH

LOCAL PRODUCERS SPOTLIGHT

In the Kitchen with Troy Batten

Spur Restaurant & Bar’s Executive Chef has been with the restaurant since the beginning and brings an innovative approach to the menu. by Samantha Simma photos by Ashley Merritt

THIS winter, Spur iS celebrating itS 10th SeaSon. The consistency and quality of the food and the casual-chic atmosphere have kept it a favorite of both locals and visitors since the beginning. The man behind the scenes has been there since the start.

“When we’re cooking food, as chefs, we just want to make people happy. We want people to taste the food and love it, and we get energy from that,” Troy Batten says of his field of work as executive chef at Teton Mountain Lodge’s Spur. Batten has been at the helm since 2019, but his time deriving energy from cooking in Jackson Hole and other resort towns vastly predates that — to 2001.

Originally from Idaho, where his family owned cattle ranches in Ashton and Blackfoot, Batten departed academia at Boise State University when he saw an ad for a kitchen position at Jackson Lake Lodge. From there, a myriad of kitchen positions that spanned mountain towns in Colorado and California honed the chef’s skills in the kitchen and on the slopes. As they have with many others, the mountains of Jackson Hole called Batten back to the area, and he has since settled into the role of delighting the palates of Spur patrons.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE MENU AT SPUR?

It’s Mountain West-American cuisine. We’ve had some wild menu items before — everything from Peruvian dishes to Turkish dishes to Japanese dishes. But at the end of the day, we use old-school, classical techniques to prepare Alpinestyle food. It’s a scratch kitchen, so we make our own charcuterie products, cheeses, sauces, etc.

SPUR RESTAURANT & BAR’S POTATO RISOTTO

6 Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into medium dice 1/2 cup olive oil 1 yellow onion, small dice 2 cups white wine 2 quarts chicken (or vegetable) stock 1/2 tablespoon parsley, chopped 1/2 tablespoon chives, chopped 1 teaspoon thyme, chopped 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup Parmesan cheese, shredded

> Soak the chopped potatoes in cold water. In a large pot, sweat the onions with oil over medium heat until translucent. Meanwhile, bring the stock to a boil in a separate pot. Strain the potatoes, and add to the pot with onions. Cook until potatoes are slightly translucent — stirring constantly to prevent sticking. Deglaze the pan with white wine and add boiling stock one cup at a time. Stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, hold the mixture at a slight simmer. The risotto is ready once the starches are released, the stock is creamy and the potatoes are soft in the center.

Finish with herbs, butter, Parmesan cheese, and salt and pepper, to taste.

“THIS IS A WONDERFUL STARCH TO SERVE WITH CHICKEN, FISH, WILD GAME AND BRAISED BEEF. IT IS ALSO AMAZING WITH MUSHROOMS OR SQUASH ALL ON ITS OWN. ADD LOBSTER AND BLACK TRUFFLES FOR A SPECIAL OCCASION!”

GIVEN YOUR UPBRINGING, YOU MUST BE PRETTY SELECTIVE WITH YOUR PROTEIN SOURCING. WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO BE SELECTIVE OF PROTEINS?

The health [of the animal] and the flavor go hand in hand. When you have a fresh product that was raised correctly, it tastes better. It’s more tender, and there’s a better fat-to-protein ratio. The human tongue is pretty amazing, and you can tell the difference when something’s been pasture-raised and humanely processed. In my family, that’s how we did it. We raised cattle on a ranch and cared for them when they were sick, and that was normal. Now, that’d be called free-range organic, but for us, back then that was just how it was done.

WHERE DO YOU SOURCE PROTEINS FOR SPUR?

Intermountain Bison in Swan Valley [Idaho] has been a huge source of our food. Our buffalo short rib and buffalo New York strip steak both come from them. The short rib is, without a doubt, the No. 1 seller on our menu. It’s a menu staple that we braise with Snake River Brewing’s Zonker Stout beer, and most people know about it when they come here. I also have a great rapport with Snake River Farms out of Boise. That’s who we’ve been sourcing our American wagyu from for years and years.

WHERE DO YOU DRAW INSPIRATION FOR NEW MENU ITEMS?

Seasonality and our daily specials are huge inspirations to us. We always open up the season with a slim menu and add to it. Also, I tell everybody — from the cooks to the dishwashers to the servers — “In your offseason, I want you all to go out and eat at as many restaurants as you can and take as much inspiration as you can. If there’s anything that catches your eye or your palate, write it down or take a photo of it, whatever it takes, just bring that back.” It doesn’t even have to be the full dish; it may just be one component of a dish.

IS THERE AN ITEM ON THE MENU THAT STEMS FROM THAT?

Our roasted cauliflower wedge does. It’s a vegan dish that has a black lentil side that was inspired by a tandoori Indian restaurant. There was an amazing chef there that actually used to cook for the royal family of India. Eventually, after going there enough, he finally gave me almost the full recipe, besides a couple little things. I was able to decipher the rest.

IF YOU WERE TO CHOOSE A TRAVEL DESTINATION BASED ON THE FOOD, WHERE WOULD YOU GO?

I think Tokyo has some of the most amazing food scenes in the world. You can go there and be able to eat at one of the nicest Italian restaurants, thousands of miles away from Italy, or seafood, ramen, Korean barbecue, etc. There are so many different types of restaurants, and between the cleanliness and the discipline of the chefs, it’s a really amazing scene.

WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO EAT IN JACKSON?

On my days off, I really want something different — like Chinatown or Pica’s. I like to go to Sidewinders to have a beer and watch a game with some chicken wings. If I’ve been in the national park, then I’ll stop at Dornan’s for pizza. I also enjoy having Local and The Bistro right there in downtown.

WHAT DOES A DAY OFF LOOK LIKE FOR YOU, IN THE WINTER?

If the body is doing well and I’m not broken down, then I’d be getting up and skiing in the Village all morning (hopefully it’s a powder day). Then, maybe a hike out to Four Pines or Rock Springs to finish the day. And then, to be honest, I come down to the Spur, put my gear in my locker, and have a milk, some chicken wings, and a beer while I chat with the bartenders. Otherwise, hot springs adventures are always on my to-do list in the winter.

HOW DOES JACKSON COMPARE TO THE OTHER RESORT TOWNS YOU’VE LIVED IN?

Jackson is, without a doubt, the most wellrounded resort town in America. There are days I’ve climbed the Middle Teton, snowboarded down it, then gone swimming in the lake, and then gone for a mountain bike ride. There’s so much to do, and so many options. It just depends on your fitness level and motivation. You can climb a mountain before coming into work. Where else can you do that?