Horse&Rider – June 2017

CARL HESTER’S SCHOOLING SOLUTIONS The UK’s best-selling equestrian monthly

SHAMPOO WORTH

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SYLVIA LOCH EXPLAINS

BAREFOOT

is it right for your horse?

ARTHRITIC

HORSE?

CHOOSE THE RIGHT TRAINER FOR YOU

Management solutions you need!

Care for his back

HOW YOUR HORSE THINKS understand his behaviour and improve your bond

Keep him comfy and sound

HOW TO SPOT

LAMENESS

+ what to do about it SHOPPING

jumping problems solved

Studs – Vented hats complete guide

June 2017

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Issue number 567 June 2017 n Managing arthritis n Flatwork with Carl Hester n How your horse sees the world n Choosing the right instructor n Care for your horse’s back n Buyer’s guide to no-rinse washes

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As told to Tilly Berendt. Photos: Jon Stroud. Venue: Leamside Equestrian, County Durham, leamsideequestrianltd.co.uk. With thanks to Piaffe Presents for their help with this feature, piaffepresents.co.uk

In this feature. . .

Our expert

Carl Hester MBE is one of Great Britain’s preeminent dressage experts. As a rider he has a multitude of honours to his name, including gold and silver Olympic medals and World silver medals. As a trainer he is in-demand internationally, and has coached riders and horses from grassroots level through to Olympic success.

Our models

Hannah Moody rides Full Fusion BS, a six-year-old mare by Blue Hors Zack, currently competing at Medium.

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➤ Improve

your horse’s frame ➤ Encourage

In the saddle

relaxation ➤ Improve halts ➤ Use lateral work for straightness

Formulas

future for the

with CARL HESTER

Too much too soon or too little, too late? Carl Hester helps you to plan the next stage of your horse’s education

A

s your horse’s training progresses, it’s important to start to look for a more advanced understanding of the work he’s doing and a change in his outline. Whereas with a five-year-old I keep it simple and work on creating engagement through the use of transitions, I want to see a six-year-old using himself, starting to understand the fundamentals of self-carriage and developing enough maturity in his balance that he can execute lateral movements.

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g As your horse’s trainin his l wil so s, sse progre self-carriage

TOP TIP

It can be exciting to find that your youngster has a talent for a certain gait or movement, but don’t get caught up in it – have the self-discipline to work on what he can’t do, not just what he can do.

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HOW TO With thanks to the Animal Health Trust for their help with this feature, aht.org.uk

SPOT LAMENESS Would you know if your horse was lame? It’s not always as obvious as noticing a limp, as vet Annamaria Nagy from the Animal Health Trust explains

I

n a recent study, nearly half of general riding horses in full work who were thought to be sound by their owner were actually lame when they were examined by a vet – a surprising figure. And while many horses cope well with unrecognised, low-grade lameness, their quality of life would be greatly improved if they could be helped sooner, so knowing how to spot the signs in your own horse is really important.

What is lameness?

Lameness essentially means an abnormal gait, and it’s the most common reason for poor performance and for the end of a horse’s ridden career. In the majority of horses it’s caused by pain, but in rare cases lameness can be a result of mechanical restriction – for example, a band of hard, abnormal tissue in the

Signs of discomfort

Lameness can be easy to spot – for example, a moderate to severe limp – but low-grade lameness can be very easy to miss, especially if your horse is lame in more than one leg. However, there are subtle signs to look out for that could mean your horse is suffering some discomfort. You may notice that...

Your horse’s behaviour may change...

...or he may show signs of pain

muscle or a contracted (shortened) tendon – which can make the horse lame without him actually feeling pain.

The severity of lameness can range from hardly noticeable to severe, where some horses may not be able to put any weight on their sore leg. The seriousness of the injury often correlates with the severity of the lameness, but this isn’t always the case.

For example, horses with a hoof abscess can be very lame and some can hardly walk but, once the abscess bursts, the lameness usually improves quickly and horses may even be sound the following day. On the other hand, horses with a severe lesion in their superficial digital flexor tendon are often not lame at all, or only mildly initially, but if the injury isn’t diagnosed and treated promptly, it can get worse and the tendon may even tear completely.

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he doesn’t do particular tasks as well as he used to.

He might not want to go forwards, may prefer one rein to the other or feel less powerful. A dressage horse may struggle with particular movements and a showjumper might start refusing he no longer works in an outline. He may be behind or above the bit, heavy in your hand or fight the contact his behaviour has changed. For example, if your horse has sore hocks and finds flexion of his hindlimbs painful, he may become difficult with the farrier or when his hind feet are picked out. He may also show signs of pain, such as opening his mouth, twisting his head, swishing his tail constantly or putting his ears back his saddle slips. If your saddle slips to one side, it may be caused by lameness, particularly if it’s in the hindlimbs

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Ask a vet

Our expert

Annamaria Nagy DrMedVet DipACVSMR PhD FRCVS is Senior Orthopaedic Clinician at the Animal Health Trust.

She has a keen interest in investigating lameness and poor performance in horses, and advanced diagnostic imaging.

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Baring it all Words: Tilly Berendt. Photo: Steve Bardens

Considering going barefoot, but mystified by conflicting advice? Read on for our comprehensive guide to embracing the shoeless lifestyle

W

ithout four sound, healthy feet to stand on, your horse can’t carry out the work you want him to do. Advances in horse care mean there are more options than ever before when it comes to shoeing – from traditional steel and lightweight aluminium to glue-on plastic and composite varieties. But is there a benefit to keeping it simple and doing away with shoes entirely?

The benefits of going barefoot vary from horse to horse, but can include improved circulation to his feet, enhanced traction, a better way of going and stronger, healthier hoof growth. If you’ve been considering the barefoot route, there are several things to think about.

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Making it count

While a barefoot trim is cheaper than a set of shoes, there are associated costs that are likely to crop up as your horse transitions, such as buying hoof boots to help while his feet are still sensitive. Some barefoot horses need trimming more regularly than a shod horse would and, as such, finances shouldn’t be your primary motivator when making the decision to remove your horse’s shoes. It’s important to base your decision on what will make him happy and comfortable in his work. Speak to your farrier, who knows your horse’s hooves and growing patterns, for advice on what your horse will need to help him succeed. Your vet will also be able to help you make an informed decision.

Management know-how

The ideal candidate

Certain horses are better suited to being barefoot than others. If your horse has solid, healthy hoof walls and thick soles, he’s likely to find it easier to go without shoes than one with less healthy feet. Think carefully about removing his shoes if he...

• struggles with serious foot-soreness • competes in a discipline in which he needs extra grip in the form of studs • relies on remedial or corrective shoeing to overcome the effects of a conformational defect • has suffered from changes to his coffin bone and wears pads to compensate However, every horse’s needs are unique, and many with problematic hooves have successfully overcome issues with growth, sensitivity and hardiness over a period of time with the careful management.

Finding a farrier

Trimming alone isn’t regulated under the Farriers Registration Act, which means that anyone can call themselves a barefoot practitioner or trimmer, regardless of skill level. There are a number of barefoot hoofcare organisations promoting their members, but it’s important to check that whoever you choose has a recognised qualification and appropriate insurance. Visit farrier-reg.gov.uk to search for qualified farriers in your area who can help you to get your horse’s feet on the right track.

There’s a big difference between a trim suitable for a barefoot horse at rest or to prepare the hoof for a shoe and a barefoot trim for a working horse, which takes into account individual hoof shape and shock absorption, the surface the horse will be ridden on and the nature of the work he does. Because of this, you’ll need a farrier who specialises in preparing and reshaping the hoof for barefoot work.

Adjusting from shod to barefoot isn’t as simple as removing your horse’s shoes and hoping for the best

All change

Adjusting from shod to barefoot isn’t as simple as removing your horse’s shoes and hoping for the best. To avoid foot soreness, plan his transition carefully. His hooves are likely to be slightly more tender in the early stages and you should allow for anywhere up to three months for them to get to the point where your farrier can begin to reshape them, rather than just trimming them. The full transition process can take up to a year.

During the transition, your horse’s hoof wall should start to strengthen and his sole start to thicken in order to cope with direct contact with the ground. Your farrier will test the thickness of his sole with hoof testers – if it’s very thin, keep him on a soft surface, but spend time gently working on firmer terrain each day to encourage thickening without making him sore. A naturally thicker sole can cope with more varied surfaces and more exposure to firm going earlier on.

Consider his workload when transitioning – you’re likely to find that he gets sore if you continue to ride him as you did before removing his shoes. Treat his transition period like a fitness regime – you have to find a comfortable level for him to work at, then slowly build it up.

An easy start

If your horse is used to being unshod – for example, if he’s a youngster you’re going to begin backing or if he’s had a length of time off work without shoes – his transition period will be slightly different, as his soles and hoof walls will already be used to coping with the barefoot lifestyle and, as such, won’t need as careful a transition process. However, as your horse starts or restarts his working life, his hooves will have to bear more weight, cover a wider variety of surfaces and compensate in a different way than he is used to, so keep an eye on their condition and maintain a regular trimming schedule with your farrier. If your horse starts to show any signs of problems or weakness in his hooves, you can rethink whether he needs to be shod.

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