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Funnell’s POLEWORK SECRETS! EQUINE ANATOMY
HOCKS EXPLAINED
Winter gear you need Midlayers Breeches Gorgeous accessories Cooler rugs
REVEALED
LEADING ISSUES
solved
16
Essential clipping tips
MUD FEVER PREVENTION PLAN
November 2016
Issue number 559 November 2016 n Polework with Pippa Funnell n Winter gear essentials for horse and rider n How your horse sleeps, revealed n Mud fever prevention plan n Leading issues solved
Pippa
HOW YOUR HORSE SLEEPS
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PART ONE In this feature. . .
➤ How to use poles to your advantage
Pole position
Using poles to conquer rhythm and straightness will set you up for a successful jump every time. Pippa Funnell explains how
As told to Georgia Guerin. Photos: Bob Atkins. With thanks to Toggi and Champion for their help with this feature, championhats.co.uk
Our expert
Pippa Funnell is one of only two riders to have won the Rolex Grand Slam of Eventing, winning the three major four-star events back-to-back. She’s also won two team silver and one individual bronze Olympic medals, and was on the eventing team in Rio earlier this year.
Our model
Piggy French is an international eventer. She has ridden as part of Team GB at the World Equestrian Games and European Championships, and has won individual silver at the European Championships, too. She rides eight-year-old Cooley Top Cat.
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T
he benefits of polework apply to all disciplines. Whether you’re into dressage, showjumping, tackling cross-country courses or hacking, working with poles on the ground can make the world of difference to you and your horse because there are so many different ways to use them. Polework is a great way to warm up for jumping, but it can be a session in itself, too. Poles can help you to improve your horse’s proprioception (awareness of his body), rhythm, straightness and adjustability, which
together will help you establish a consistent canter – important in every discipline, but particularly when you’re jumping. What’s especially good with many polework exercises is that the poles do the work for you – he’ll learn where to put his feet directly from the poles. And when it comes to jumping, these exercises will put him in the right position to take off, so that you don’t have to worry about setting him up in the right place and you can let your horse get on with it. All you have to do is get him there and focus on your own position.
➤
In the saddle
➤ Keep your horse straight ➤ Set him up for the perfect stride
Getting your eye in
Polework can also help you to train your eye to see a stride when you’re jumping. Poles set up your horse to hit the perfect spot every time so, when the poles aren’t there, you’ll have a good idea of how to adjust your horse’s stride to get the perfect take-off.
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PART TWO In this feature. . .
➤
Position yourself correctly to lead
Leading lessons
Having a horse who knows how to lead politely is fundamental for your safety and relationship with him. Kelly Marks explains
Our expert
Kelly Marks was the first teacher of Monty Roberts’ methods and founded Intelligent Horsemanship. She specialises in confidence for horses and humans.
First things first
B
eing around your horse on the ground should be a pleasant experience for you both, and the way he leads can set the tone of your overall working partnership. Not only will having a horse who’s polite to lead make him safer and easier to handle, but it will translate to your ridden work, too, creating a horse who’s more responsive and softer in your hands. Remember, every time you’re with your horse, you’re training him – whether you intend to or not.
We all want our horses to walk with us willingly, respectfully and attentively. And when you ask him to change his pace or direction, you want to be able to do so easily and safely, too. One of the first things you need to understand is your horse’s instinctive response to pressure. An untrained horse’s first reaction to pressure is to push into it – for example, if you pull on the leadrope he’ll pull back against it. When you train your horse, you’re aiming for the counterintuitive response of yielding to pressure. To do this, you need to use the leadrope as a consequence rather than a signal. When you’re leading your horse, he should follow you when you begin to walk and
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TOP TIP
Teach your horse to lead in trot, too. This way, if you go to a show or have to trot him up for the vet, he’ll already know what he’s doing.
when you stop, he should stop, too. If he doesn’t follow you or forgets to stop and overtakes you, then apply slight pressure to the end of the leadrope – it’s best if you do this using a training halter because it puts pressure on in the right place, and helps your horse to clarify the distinction between pressure and release. Your horse can quickly release himself from the pressure by walking forward or stopping, depending on what you’re asking him to do. He’ll soon learn that by paying attention, he’s able to find the comfortable place and get it right each time – once he’s trained, there should be no pressure on him at all.
➤
Mind matters
Lower his head
If he doesn’t walk with you... Try holding the leadrope across your tummy and put your arm closest to him forward – this will put you in a stronger position
As told to Georgia Guerin. Photos: Bob Atkins. With thanks to Kelly Marks, intelligenthorsemanship.co.uk
➤ Teach your horse to back up ➤
HORSE&RIDER 67
A matter
of mud Mud fever and rainscald are common winter problems. Rachel Dyke investigates what you can do to help prevent them
M
ud fever and rainscald are different names for the same bacterial infection, caused by Dermatophilus congolensis. Mud fever is most common in the bulbs of your horse’s heels and the back of his pasterns, while rainscald is typically found along his topline, although it can occur anywhere on his body. The bacteria is commonly found living on the skin without causing any problems, but can enter the skin barrier after it becomes softened by prolonged exposure to moisture or when grit within mud causes abrasions. Unsurprisingly, this means that both conditions are most prevalent in the winter. But the good news is that, with some simple preventative measures, you can reduce the risk to your horse.
Manage the mud
The first and most obvious thing you can do is limit the time your horse spends standing in mud. However, this isn’t always as easy as it sounds, particularly in winter when fields often start to resemble mudbaths. Where possible, rotate your grazing to minimise wear and tear, and give your
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paddocks a chance to recover. When you’re riding, avoid wet and muddy ground as much as possible, and be aware that if grit or sand gets trapped under exercise boots, it can scratch the skin’s surface. Fitting an exercise sheet will help to keep his body dry in wet weather, too.
Management know-how
›››››››› Protective gear
Even a few hours of turnout every day will be beneficial to your horse, allowing him to stretch his legs and socialise with friends. If your field is poached, turnout boots or leg wraps could help reduce his exposure to mud and moisture. Barrier creams, petroleum jelly and pig oil can also help to prevent moisture reaching the skin. Always apply them to clean, dry legs or moisture will be sealed against the skin, providing a perfect environment for bacteria. To help him stay dry, invest in at least two goodquality turnout rugs, so he can wear one while the other dries. The warm, dark environment under a rug can be a breeding ground for bacteria, particularly if your horse sweats because his rug is too warm or isn’t very breathable. It’s therefore important to change his rug daily, even if he’s living out 24/7, so air can reach his skin – D congolensis can’t survive in the presence of oxygen because it’s an anaerobic bacteria, so the more time your horse gets to air in the dry, the better. You can also buy rugs with antibacterial or silver linings to help prevent infections taking hold.
➤ FEATURE SPONSORED BY
KBIS.CO.UK SEE PAGE 118 for KBIS tip of the month
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