Horse&Rider Magazine - November 2018

In this feature. . .

➤ Lay

the foundation for training success

The scales of training Want to streamline your schooling? Dressage star Charlie Hutton shows you how to embrace the scales of training. This month, he looks at the foundations – rhythm and suppleness

As told to Tilly Berendt. Photos: Jon Stroud. With thanks to Petplan for their help with this feature, petplan.co.uk

Our trainer

Charlie Hutton represented Team GB at Young Rider level, but he certainly hasn’t been resting on his laurels since then.

He combines a busy competition schedule up to Grand Prix with teaching at his base in Wiltshire

Our models

Lyndsey Ryder rides her own Max, a Welsh Section D gelding. Although Max isn’t a natural dressage horse, he and Lyndsey have gone from strength to strength at British Dressage competitions, qualifying for two Petplan Equine Area Festivals.

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In the saddle

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Establish correct paces ➤ Supple him up ➤ Regulate your rhythm

E

very dressage test you’ll ever ride, no matter what level you’re competing at, will require the same basic qualities. The judges will want to see a harmonious relationship between you and your horse, with the pair of you completing the desired movements with ease and fluidity.

Making everything look this easy is a lifelong goal for most riders, and it can only be done if you’ve broken down your horse’s training into a series of building blocks, called the scales of training. As you master each block and begin to stack them on top

of one another, you create a foundation on which you can tackle more complex movements, more advanced concepts and more complicated tests. At the pinnacle? The elusive concept of ‘throughness’.

Even if you never plan to tackle a dressage test, the scales of training are the basis of everything you’ll do with your horse. Whether you hope to jump fast clear rounds or polish your rides out showing, or you just want to produce a well-mannered, pleasant hacking partner, getting to grips with the scales of training will give you the tools you need to do anything you hope to achieve.

What are the training scales?

You might have heard them referred to as the training pyramid, but whatever name they go by, the scales of training are a guideline to producing your horse correctly, no matter which discipline you pursue.

Based on classical principles, they have a clear order of use, allowing you to perfect your foundation before attempting more difficult work. If you can achieve each of the scales to a high standard, you’ll have a horse who’s a pleasure to ride, train and judge.

The language used in the training scales is quite general, so it can be a little confusing to understand exactly what each sets out to achieve. For this reason, lots of riders find themselves going wrong. This series will break down each scale, give you some simple exercises to help establish it, and help you troubleshoot if it goes wrong, too.

First up is the solid base of the pyramid – rhythm and suppleness.

COLLECTION (increased engagement, lightness, of forehand and self-carriage) STRAIGHTNESS (improved alignment and balance) IMPULSION (increased energy and thrust) CONNECTION (acceptance of the bit through acceptance of the aids) SUPPLENESS (elasticity and suppleness) RHYTHM (energy and tempo)

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Giving the nod Headshaking is common in horses, but it’s often misunderstood.

Vet Sarah Smith, from Langford Vets, tells us more about this mysterious condition

Our expert

With thanks to Langford Vets for their help with this feature, langfordvets.co.uk

Sarah Smith MA VetMB MVetMed DipACVIM MRCVS is Equine Medicine Clinician and RCVS Specialist in Equine Internal Medicine at Langford Vets.

She has a particular interest in neonatology and stud farm medicine, neurology and cardiology.

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ecent research has shown that only 25% of owners with a headshaking horse sought veterinary help. In the past, it was believed that this was an evasive behaviour, and that horses were simply being badly behaved and needed a strong rider and more severe tack. But as our understanding of the condition has improved, attitudes have changed significantly among horse owners and vets.

However, there’s still quite a long way to go.

Ask a vet

What is headshaking?

One reason for the huge amount of misunderstanding is that the term headshaking simply refers to the visible clinical sign – the fact the horse is shaking his head – and not the underlying cause of the problem.

It can be caused by any number of things, but it’s usually pain or irritation that causes the horse to throw his head around. Pinpointing the underlying cause is tricky, though, but it’s important to find the cause so the condition can be successfully treated and managed.

Identifying a pattern can help your vet find the underlying source of the pain

Noticing patterns

Identifying a pattern can help your vet find the underlying source of the pain.

When your horse shakes his head, does it happen... all the time? only when ridden? only when being schooled? only when cantering? only in some seasons of the year? only when in certain fields or paddocks? l only when eating? l completely randomly, not associated with any activity or location? l l l l l l

And when he shakes his head...

It’s also worth considering whether...

l does he flick his head up and down or round in circles? l is his head tipped to one side? l is it worse on one rein than the other? l does he appear to be distressed? l are there any other signs of pain?

l l l l

he’s comfortable being tacked up he’s performing well otherwise he drops food when he eats he reacts abnormally when you touch any part of his head l the shape of his head has changed l he has nasal discharge and, if so, whether it’s coming from one or both nostrils

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above A CUT

Clipping season is upon us, but with Fizz Marshall’s top tips, wonky lines and unsightly patches will be a thing of the past

Our expert

Fizz Marshall worked with all types of horse in her six years as Centre Manager at the Equine Therapy Centre at Hartpury College in Gloucestershire. More recently she’s worked for racehorse trainer Jonjo O’Neill and as Yard Manager for Carl Hester.

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hether you love or loathe it, clipping is one of those timeconsuming jobs that sneaks up on us as the nights draw in and the temperature drops.

One day it’s the height of summer then, almost without warning, you arrive at the yard one day to discover that your horse has sprouted a distinctive and unwieldy pelt, seemingly overnight. Every year, without fail, you think to yourself, ‘how can it possibly be that time of year already?’.

Not sure you’re ready to tackle the task? Stress-free clipping is about preparation, so having all your kit in order and a plan in mind will go a long way to making the job considerably less overwhelming.

Management know-how

Save the date

There’s much debate over when you should clip your horse, but for most people, October is appropriate if he’s in full work. It’s really important that you consider your horse’s winter plans before you clip him – is he going to be in full work for the foreseeable future or are you considering giving him a holiday in the field? If you’re planning on turning him away at the end of the eventing season, for example, a full clip will put him at the mercy of the elements, so you should consider leaving him unclipped or choose a modified style.

Otherwise, when to clip is largely down to preference, but the earlier you do it, the quicker it’ll grow back and the more clips you’ll have to do through the winter. Equally, if you leave clipping too long, your horse will take much longer to dry if he gets wet, be harder to clean when muddy and will be at risk of losing condition due to excess sweating.

Tooled up

Most of us don’t get our clippers out of the box until winter rolls around, but it’s worth checking they work a few weeks before you need them. Follow the manufacturer’s servicing guidelines and get this done well in advance.

Taking your clippers apart to remove the blades allows you to clean the casing where they sit and oil the surface of each blade, too.

It’s a good idea to do this after each clipping session to ensure that your blades remain in the best possible condition.

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Step 1: Remove any residual hair from the surface blade, using a brush to extract any caught between the teeth.

Step 2: Unscrew and remove the tensioner, taking care not to lose the small spring underneath it. Remove both blades by taking out the pin that holds them in place.

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Step 3: Brush any leftover hair off the blades, and wipe any oil and residue off with a rag.

Step 4: Clean out the inside of the clipper head with a small brush to remove any debris. If your clippers have a removable filter at the base, take out the screen and gently clean it.

Step 5: Apply oil to each of the blades individually to ensure they’re well-lubricated. This will prevent excessive friction and help slow down the heating process.

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