Urban
Exploits AC T IVE ADVEN TU RES TRAIN TRAVELS INDO N ESIA SOU TH AFRICA
CONTENTS WINTER 2014
Features 66 Cover Story Countryside Calling Three picturesque journeys to higher grounds
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Volume 3 Winter 2014 October - December
CONTENTS WINTER 2014
FLAVOUR 28 Chef Will Meyrick: From the Streets to the Kitchen The culinary master on street food, travel and his new HK lady love GLOBETROTTERS 40 Rhythm and Balance Two fine personas to get to know better
58 Fashion Hightd Recluse Wild beauty amidst rough terrains
TRAVEL 82 Exploring Ecuador Rediscovering an array of natural and cultural wonders 88 Phuket: Pure Pleasure A weekend of reverie in Phuket’s most divine coasts 96 Taking on Tibet The grandeur of high-altitude scenery
ARTS & DESIGN AUTUMN HIGHLIGHTS
48 The Digital Face of the Art World Breaking new ground as art and technology join forces
102 Autumn in New York An assemblage of perspectives on the season of change
BUSINESS 52 Dividend Income: Looking Beyond the Short Term How a little foresight can bring you a long way
DESTINATION DIARY 74 A Sumptuous Koh Samui Sidetrip Everlasting memories of a tropical gem
BESPOKE JOURNEYS 110 Wanderlust on (Two) Wheels Pedalling for culture and adventure
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Featured Contributors KAILA KRAYEWSKI As a journalist, Kaila has seen some of the most exciting destinations in Asia. For this issue, she’s TAKING ON TIBET for the very first time. Find out why for this Canadian traveller, Tibet is as close to heaven as anyone can get.
KAT MODELO EFENIO km@travelitemagazine.com Managing Editor SJ ROXAS sj@travelitemagazine.com Associate Editor DEN FAJARDO den@travelitemagazine.com Designer MARIO BANZON mario@travelitemagazine.com Features Writer MARY JESSE EFENIO jess@travelitemagazine.com Marketing Director
VIOLA RAIKHEL-BOLOT As co-founder and Managing Director of 1858 Ltd Art Advisory, Viola has close- ly followed the exciting developments in the art world. In her piece THE DIGITAL FACE OF THE ART WORLD, this sought-after art lecturer presents what the future holds for contemporary art in the age of tablets and smartphones.
TAI HUI Patience is indeed a virtue as the Man- aging Director and Chief Market Strat- egist Asia for JP Morgan Funds stresses. Expounding on the long-term benefits of investing in a dividend income strategy, DIVIDEND INCOME: LOOKING BEYOND THE SHORT TERM is a must-read for anyone investing in Asia this year.
MARY MORTON When Mary is not busy being a moth- er and the director at Spice and Soul, a growing PR and Marketing agency based in Australia, she heads off to the next exciting travel destination. This year, the lawyerturned-PR specialist landed on Ecuador and she tells all the treasures to be found at the centre of the earth in EXPLORING ECUADOR.
SUBSCRIPTIONS AND ADVERTISING WWW.TRAVELITEMAGAZINE.COM SALES@TRAVELITEMAGAZINE.COM INFO@TRAVELITEMAGAZINE.COM
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JEFF LITAN jeff@travelitemagazine.com EMILIE JOAN CRUZ emilie@travelitemagazine.com BOB CLUTARIO bob@travelitemagazine.com Sales Associates CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Viola Raikhel-Bolot, Tai Hui, Kaila Krayewski, Mary Morton, Isobel Tsin CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Navid Baraty, Franck Bohbot, Ximena Cabezas, Abdul Hye, Aleks Ivic, Isabel Maldonado, Ross Reyes, Rebeca Saborio, Rodrigo Medel Santibáñez, Kate Sheffield, Bert Smit PRINTED BY: PARAMOUNT PRINTING COMPANY LIMITED 1/F 8 Chun Ying Street, Tseung Kwan O Industrial Estate Tseung Kwan O, New Territories, Hong Kong Published by Travelite Magazine Company Limited. All rights, including the name of this publication are owned by Travelite Magazine Company Limited. No part of this publication may be reproduced without permission. Travelite Magazine believes that the information herein was obtained from reliable sources, but it does not guarantee its accuracy. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and contributors and not necessarily endorsed by the publisher. Information suppliedfor advertising purposes is the responsibility of the advertisers, andno advertisement is to be deemed an endorsement of the publisher. The publisher does not accept responsibility for entries supplied by individuals or companies including but not limited to typographical errors and copyright of all supplied materials. Travelite Magazine takes no responsibility for the price differences stated within. All prices are in US dollars, based on the currency rates at the time of print.
TRAVELITE MAGAZINE COMPANY LIMITED Room 103, Tak Lok House, Tak Tin Estate Lam Tin, Kowloon, Hong Kong
CONTENTS WINTER 2014
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Editor’s Note
Fall,
the season of change, sees many transformations to Travelite. We went as bold as we could, from renamed sections to a noticeable new look. As it happens, we are also celebrating our second anniversary with this issue, and it not only justifies the changes, but also makes it a fitting tribute. I can’t think of a better way to introduce this season than with a peek at the Big Apple. It is, after all, one of the world’s most loved autumn destinations, which we showcased through a collection of beautiful photographs. With a newfound thirst for adventure, we take you to no less than three breathtaking landscapes, yours to explore without inhibition. A quick island stopover awaits with a short but definitely sweet trip to Koh Samui and, if you have more time to spare, Phuket’s storied beaches are yours to rediscover over the weekend. While you’re
trav-el-ite Travel for the elite
still wandering about in Asia, a heartwarming exploration of Tibet is one adventure you cannot miss. Journeying further, South America’s unspoilt wonder, Ecuador, surprises with a handful of remarkable experiences. For your last stop, we introduce a new section, Bespoke Journeys – starting with lovely cycling tours tailored for three types of adventure-seekers. The shift in seasons can bring about change anywhere from weather to your perspective. To match is our gorgeous fashion editorial shot in Batanes, a bucket-list worthy destination in the Philippines, ready to inspire you to tread new grounds and new territories in style. From meaningful journeys to more rewarding experiences, the best is yet to come. And we thank you, avid readers, for celebrating this milestone with us.
Photography PAELO PEDRAJAS Styling JAMES SCOTT Model NIKOLINA Ideal People Model Management Hair & Make-up ANTON PATDU for MAC Cosmetics Shot on location in Batanes, Philippines Cover Outfit Black velvet coat, Black flannel jumpsuit, Vegetal leather & chain strap belt, Short tulle gloves, Matilda sandals, GIVENCHY
Kat Modelo Efenio Managing Editor
SPECIAL THANKS Skyjet Airlines www.skyjetair.com Batanes Travel & Tours provides reasonable packages for hassle-free trips to the northernmost province of the Philippines. Offering flights, accommodations and personalised private tours, Batanes Travel & Tours makes the journey delightful from start to finish. Batanes +632 400 0992, +63915 201 2755, +63932 863 6125, +63998 984 4359 Manila +632 781 5587, +63917 892 2552, +63939 905 2699 info@batanestravelandtours.com www.batanestravelandtours.com
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CONTENTS WINTER 2014
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Social Circuit
Hyatt Regency Hua Hin Amateur Golf Week 2014 Hua Hin 12-18 October
The 17th Charity Midnight Run 2014 Bangkok 18 October
Legacy Retreat at Nihiwatu Sumba Island 31 October–4 November
Winner of last year’s golf destination award, the Hyatt Regency Hua Hin Beach Resort invites amateur golfers to tee off on its lovely courses for this year’s amateur golf week. Come by for the competition and for a vacation.
The event, spearheaded by Amari Watergate Hotel Bangkok and BMW Thailand, guarantees a cool, fun, shimmery city night run while helping to raise money for three major charities.
Known for its relaxing and life-changing holiday programs, the Legacy Retreat finally finds a new home in the tranquil environs of Nihiwatu, a 567-acre resort of unspoiled natural land and private beach. The beauty of Sumba Island makes rejuvenation all the more pleasurable.
www.huahin.regency.hyatt.com
www.amari.com
www.thelegacyretreat.com
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SOCIAL CIRCUIT WINTER 2014
Da Vinci: Shaping the Future Singapore 15 November
Dubai International Jewellery Week Dubai 3-6 December
Australian PGA Championship 2014 The Gold Coast 11-14 December
A renaissance of sorts is happening in Singapore this November as the works of Leonardo da Vinci opens in ArtScience Museum in Marina Bay Sands. Entitled Da Vinci: Shaping the Future, the exhibit will showcase 26 original pages of da Vinci’s Codex Atlanticus along with six of his original paintings.
Dubai sparkles this December with the 19th edition of the Dubai International Jewellery Week at the World Trade Center. Featuring the best collections from around the world, expect the week-long affair to be chic and extravagant.
RACV Royal Pines Resort unveils a more challenging golf course just in time for World Number 2 Golfer Adam Scott to defend his title against other top-notch golfers at the upcoming Australian PGA Championship.
www.marinabaysands.com
www.jewelleryshow.com
www.pga.org.au
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GLOBETROTTERS
Globetrotters title here One is a design maverick who creates decadent sanctuaries in the dreamiest destinations. The other is a seasoned curator who offers the most stylish and sensible of stays. Architect Jean-Michel Gathy and The Luxe Nomad founder Stephanie Chai are among the forces that keep travel exciting.
Jean-Michel Gathy His inspired projects in the Maldives, Tibet, Oman, Turks & Caicos, and Indonesia, to name a few, are the thing of travel bucket lists. Allowing exceptional design and precious convenience to highlight each stunning destination, Jean-Michel Gathy has undoubtedly mastered the language of luxury accommodations--and everyone, from Aman Resorts to Cheval Blanc, is all ears.
Where do you find inspiration for your designs? I find my inspiration from travelling. I travel a lot. I keep my mind open to the surroundings. I observe. I critique. I analyze--people, social characteristics, colors, shapes, architectural language‌ Romantic statue, large bamboo. They are continuously with me, stuck in my mind.
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GLOBETROTTERS
I like a country with a strong identity like Nepal, Peru, Morocco, New Zealand, India, and China. All these countries have a strong identity. I like that. And I’m very sensitive to what I call that social environment and even I would say architectural language. Wherever I go, there is something that I like, the proportion of a structure or a roof pitch.
CaptionsA luxurious boutique hotel is basically a home away from home. What is a home? A home is where you keep your emotions. You have your father there, your mother, your wife, your children... That is a home. T
You once said that you’re not just an architect but also a lifestyle product designer. What do you think is the kind of lifestyle that people aspire for right now? I design luxurious boutique hotels and these are the ones that are continuously subject to lifestyle adjustment. The clients go there because it is part of their lives. They like luxury swimming pools, luxury rooms, and luxury restaurants and since I design these hotels, I design a lifestyle. Luxury for me is time and space. Luxury is non-tangible: Time, space and comfort. It’s not the goodies of life. The fact that you have a Ferrari, that’s not luxury. Lifestyle has nothing to do with money. Lifestyle is behaviour. It’s psychological, social behaviour and refinement of taste. You have to live in a certain way. You also said that when designing hotels and resorts, it is important to please the heart than the eye. What do you mean by that? A luxurious boutique hotel is basically a home away from home. What is a home? A home is where you keep your emotions. You have your father there, your mother, your wife, your children... That is a home. Therefore I don’t
design technically. I design to get an emotional response so they’ll say “I don’t know why but I’m going back because I love it there.” When was the last time you were memorably impressed during a trip? I’m impressed in every trip. In one trip you will be impressed by someone on the plane, by some music or by a beach. I am impressed in many layers. For example the first time I came to Malaysia, I found that the people are kind and nice; that impressed me. It is important to be impressed not just visually. As a guest, what do you usually look for in a resort or hotel? The first word is comfort. I want my shower
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“To work. I want the people to be nice. I want a button that says zero. For me that’s enough. It has to be comfortable. The people should be easy to reach, should be in the restaurant.”
to work. I want the people to be nice. I want a button that says zero. For me that’s enough. It has to be comfortable. The people should be easy to reach, amicable. It has to be comfortable and it has to be easy to find your way to use the technology. If it takes two hours to understand how a phone works, then that’s not good. Comfort, amicable and everything should work. For example, for me, the bedroom is a place where you rest. It has to be welcoming. It shouldn’t challenge your mind. It shouldn’t be overwhelming in terms of ornamentations. The suite must be calm. If it has to be something ornate, then it should be in the restaurant. A hotel should have balanced geometry, muted colour, and simple to use. I remember going to a hotel in Amsterdam where there were 40 cushions. To me that is disgusting. We heard that you are really into outdoor sports. Any recommendations on the best destination for cross-country running and yachting? For that, New Zealand. I was actually a middle-distance runner when I was younger. There is proverb Mens sana in corpora sano, which means a healthy brain in a healthy body. For me, you can be the smartest person in the world, but if you are not physically fit, you can’t make it. What are your top three city destinations? Oh, I like Paris and New York. But it is difficult though because the two are very specific. I also love Sydney and Singapore. There are so many places that I like; Florence is another one. What are your travel essentials? My camera (always), cashmere scarf, because on the plane you get cold and everything, and I always have my paper for my designs. I only hand carry.
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GLOBETROTTERS
Do you have any dream projects? That’s the problem with me. I like them all. I like the challenge of the project whether they are in the mountain, sea, in an urban setting, big or small, I like the challenge. I like the challenge of the design. Please tell us about your upcoming endeavours that we should watch out for.
CAPTION challenge of the project whether they are in the mountain, sea, in an urban setting, big or small, I like the challenge.
I am designing 25 hotels at the moment, 12 in construction and I will be opening 12 more. LVMH, Aman Resorts, One and Only, Park Hyatt, Jumeira, Raffles, Mandarin Hotel… So I’m in the middle of so many projects right now. How do you keep being inspired? How do you keep juices flowing? By nature I am a passionate person--a Scorpio by birth and I’m completely passionate. I continuously think of new ideas. I sit down and I design. I am an architect by design. I don’t think about contract money.I don’t take care of management. I am a designer and my mind is constantly challenged. I am always ready. It’s the same thing if you do math every day. I design 15 hours a day so I continuously find a solution. I just design. I’m not at all administrative. I don’t do marketing and that’s the success.
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STEPHANIE CHAI Having family ties in different countries, Stephanie Chai started travelling at a young age. Her modelling career eventually brought her to even more destinations. Nowadays, having established The Luxe Nomad, not only does she continue to see more of the world, but along the way, assists other travellers in realizing their dream holidays.
What made you trade fashion modelling for your own travel business? You can’t complain about being a model--the pay is good, you get to travel and earn in a day what sometimes people make in a month. But it’s a short-lived affair and for the most part; you’re missing the mental challenge. Starting my own business was always something I wanted to do; it just takes time to find the right idea. And travel was one of the bits I loved about modelling the most, so why not make a career out of it?
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How did your passion for travel start? Probably in my youth. My father is Malaysian-Chinese and my mother is Italian but grew up in New Zealand. So since I was a baby, I was always flitting between East Malaysia and New Zealand to visit family. If you’re familiar with either area, you’d know that they are fairly quiet places! So the bug to travel was always there, but I’ve always been daydreaming of seeing the world. I used to mark the days on the calendar to family holidays! Nowadays, I travel twice a month. It’s funny how sometimes we don’t realise our dreams have come true until you sit back one day and have a look around you. What sets The Luxe Nomad apart from other similar businesses? We’re pretty much the only home-grown luxury hotel and villa booking in Asia-Pacific! Whilst there are a lot of booking sites out there, sometimes, having too many options (i.e. 3,000 hotels in a city) isn’t a good thing. I realised my friends were spending hours looking for places to stay when the easiest solution would be to have a site that curates only the best places. We also have flash sales which are exclusive, weekly
GLOBETROTTERS
deals that you can’t find elsewhere. Imagine booking one of Phuket’s top resorts at up to 70 per cent off. I loved the idea because I realised there was a growing group of people who were last minute travellers; so what better site than one with only luxury properties on flash sale? Does your background in fashion help in running The Luxe Nomad? How? It definitely helped in terms of media coverage as we had a lot of press contacts. Also (this being a big factor), I knew a lot of celebrities from my work as a TV host and model. One differentiating factor we have is that we work with a number of Celeb Nomads who review our partner hotels and villas. This worked really well for us as they would take pics on their trip and link to us, which, perhaps, is why we have one of the biggest followings (globally) for an online travel portal on Instagram at 61,000. As a seasoned traveller, what do you usually look for when picking out a destination? What usually piques your interest? You know what, with budget airlines and tickets becoming so affordable, people are travelling more than ever before. So I hate to admit it, but I feel a bit spoiled to have gone to places in Southeast Asia so many times and to be able to say, “Oh, been there too many times.” I think the trick now is to look at places further afield that are interesting to visit. India would definitely be an experience, as well as Bhutan. I think who you travel with affects where you go as well. If it’s a girls’ trip and you want to have fun, then a weekend going out in Hong Kong is probably a better idea than going to a quiet island with no one around.
CAPTION Challenge of the project whether they are in the mountain, sea, in an urban setting, big or small, I like the challenge.
What is the best Asian destination that a lot of people still don’t know about? My hometown, Borneo! It’s the third biggest island and often overlooked as a destination. You’ve got Sabah, which has world-famous diving and some beautiful islands (Gaya Island Resort is a good option). Then you can fly to the next state, Sarawak (where I grew up in), where you can visit the Mulu caves--some of the largest and most stunning in the world. On top of that, there’s also the Semenggoh Reserve where over 1,000 endangered animals have been cared for and rehabilitated. The great places to stay in when visiting Kuching, Sarawak are The Ranee and Cove 55. When you travel, how would you describe your frame of mind? Do you still think of business or do you momentarily set aside anything to do with work? When I first started the business, it was difficult to switch off but I made it a point on a recent holiday in Italy to not check my emails five times a day! And having that break from thinking about work actually gave me some great ideas at the end of the trip which will be pivotal to our next round of growth as a company.
What are your top three favourite cities and why?
What are your fashion must-haves when on the go? My Miu Miu black patented ballerina pumps that work both with day or nightwear (and are comfy to walk in). What are today’s most important travel trends? Without a doubt it’s all about #VillaLife. We’ve seen a lot of growth in our private villa market where booking a four or five-bedroom luxury villa works out cheaper than a hotel. With your own butler, maids and private chef to boot, who would say no?
London, Hong Kong, New York! London because in summer it’s marvellous and nothing beats a picnic in the park. Hong Kong for the nights out on the town; great bars, restaurants and buzz. New York for its diversity; it is the world’s melting pot and seeing people of all sorts of different nationalities mix together, that makes my day. What has been your biggest splurge? Holidays of course! And all the things I bought during summer sale in Europe. (laughs) What does The Luxe Nomad have in store for its members? Watch out for our group payment button where you can book a villa and split the payment cost amongst friends. No more having to chase friends to pay you back!
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Restaurants and Bars
Robuchon au Dome Macau The lights and glamour of Macau are the perfect match to such a spectacular restaurant helmed by one of the culinary world’s luminaries. Robuchon au Dome (formerly Robuchon a Galera) is aptly located in the dome of the Grand Lisboa Hotel, overlooking the rest of the glittering city. Michelin-starred chef Joël Robuchon is behind the menu, which offers the best of classic French cuisine. Judging by the three stars awarded by the Michelin Guide Hong Kong, the food here is superb. Some of the signature dishes to try are La Pièce de Boeuf Kagoshima, a dish of pan-seared Kagoshima beef with green asparagus stuffed with black truffles and soufflés potatoes, and Le Caviar, which features caviar jelly with cauliflower
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cream served with cream of peas, crunchy cone stuffed with avocado salsa and lime zest. To complement the menu of stunning dishes is a wine collection comprised of 14,000 labels. It’s no surprise then that Robuchon au Dome has been the yearly recipient of the ‘Grand Award’ from Wine Spectator since 2005. Aside from the gastronomic sensations, Robuchon au Dome also boasts a decadently enthralling venue. With its opulent interiors, featuring a cascading crystal chandelier as a magnificent centrepiece, the restaurant is a striking vision of patterns and textures, looking every bit the epitome of a fine dining haven. www.grandlisboahotel.com
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Jamie’s Italian Hong Kong Opened just July of this year, Jamie’s Italian is one of the hotly anticipated openings in Hong Kong. This Italian food destination in Causeway Bay is a natural addition to the chain of restaurants by celebrity chef Jamie Oliver, as Hong Kong has become quite the foodie’s paradise. The planks of cured meats suspended above the counter and the trays of vegetables are indications of the type of food the restaurant serves. Jamie is a known advocate of healthy eating so expect simple and fresh dishes made with sustainably sourced ingredients. Feast on Italian classics such as Prawn Linguine, Truffle Tagliatelle, Squid Ink Spaghetti and Grilled Free-Range Chicken with Garlic and Rosemary, along with a variety of cheeses, cured meats and seasonal produce. The casual dining place has a fun, relaxed vibe perfect for hearty lunches. Additional features such as the fresh pasta station and the open kitchen make every meal more delightful. Comfort is in great focus at Jamie’s Italian as both the food and the place are warm and welcoming. The exposed ceiling and wooden flooring give the ambience a rustic appeal,
Restaurant Bobby Chinn Hanoi When it comes to Vietnamese food, chef and restaurateur Bobby Chinn has become somewhat of an icon. But his expertise goes beyond
fresh spring rolls and pho. This is apparent in his eponymous restaurant in Hanoi, which has rightfully turned into quite a staple in the tourist route. Serving Vietnamese and Western fare, Restaurant Bobby Chinn entices diners of all persuasions. The extensive menu, which gets updated every season, features dishes crafted with fresh, organic local produce and high-quality imported ingredients. Some of the stellar items are Duck Pho Cuon and Barramundi.
while punches of red, yellow and teal keep the mood vibrant. Elements of its location are incorporated into the look. A Hong Kong-inspired mural, for instance, by Barnaby Pardy covers one of the walls, while shipping container parts are on both sides of the open kitchen, paying tribute to Causeway Bay’s heritage as a fishing village. www.jamieoliver.com
There is also a list of fine wines to choose from to complete every meal. For a unique dining experience and to enjoy a wonderful variety of dishes, call in advance and request a customised tasting menu. If you’re up for a tipple, happy hour is from six to eight in the evening. Situated within the home of the famed chef, the restaurant is an intimate affair, featuring artwork and furnishings from Bobby Chinn’s very own collection. The walls and ceiling are covered with draped silk, and accents of stringed roses adorn a few portions, creating a dramatic atmosphere ideal for couples and groups of friends. www.bobbychinn.com
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Spas and Resorts Iridium Spa Lhasa
Nestled in a serene, exotic locale, the entirety of The St. Regis Lhasa Resort is an absolute sanctuary for the weary. Its location in the eastern portion of Lhasa makes for unadulterated escapes from the bustle of city life, more so because of its indulgent wellness oasis, Iridium Spa. The 1,087-sq m pampering centre is the ultimate retreat for chilling days with its tranquil ambiance and soothing, holistic treatments. Equipped with treatment rooms and suites, peace and privacy are greatly upheld in the spa. The menu, comprised of head-to-toe therapies, is just as impressive as the surroundings. One of the stand-out offerings ideal for the season is the Fire Cupping and Golden Moxa service, which infuses the body with therapeutic heat using specially-made glass cups. The suction on the skin, performed with the use of fire, helps improve the energy flow within the body. High-quality moxa is ignited to create a pleasantly hot sensation on the skin and
Spa Saint-Martin by La Prairie The French Riviera
Once a 12th century Knights Templar Commandery, Château Saint-Martin & Spa is a historical gem that looks out to the vastness of the Côte d’Azur as well as the surrounding mountains. But it’s not just that magnificent views that have revitalising effects on the guests; the property’s wellness facility is a premier haven for utter relaxation and rejuvenation. Recognised at the World Luxury Spa Awards 2014 as the Best Luxury Destination Spa in Europe, Spa Saint-Martin by La Prairie combines the intoxicating beauty of its location, the grandeur of upscale facilities and products, and the warmth of great service. Any wellness aficionado will agree that it is nothing short of heavenly, considering the extensive menu, which includes therapies for men, and the variety of treatment areas--a gazebo, a sauna and a beauty room, among others.
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One of the spa’s signature rituals is the Jade Treatment, which offers benefits to both the body and spirit. Jade has long been revered across cultures, associating it with luck and purity. At Spa Saint-Martin by La Prairie, the combination of warmed and cooled stones are alternately applied to different parts of the body to ease tension. Organic oils are also used during the 80-minute ritual to achieve a deep state of relaxation. www.chateau-st-martin.com
expel the cold; this procedure has been used in traditional medicine for its positive effects on the blood flow. Time-honoured Tibetan massage techniques and Himalayan herbs and oils are also incorporated to promote physical and inner healing. This unique, fiery therapy lasts for 90 minutes. www.starwoodhotels.com
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THE LION CITY:
Multicultural Bites To call Singapore a quintessential melting pot would be to humour it—a large cauldron would be a more befitting description, given that it is home to almost every cuisine under the sun. Mandira Rai scoured the island and found four restaurants that help showcase the myriad flavours vying for your palettes on this little red dot. There’s Italian, Japanese and American; cuisines that have been widely embraced and found almost anywhere in the world. In Singapore, international flavours are aplenty and the selection includes more than your usual fare. These unique flavours, while miles away from their origins, have found a home in the lion city, pleasing both residents and visitors a bite at a time.
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Alpine The truth be told, to me (and many more, I believe) Alpine food meant fondue. It took one visit to Zott’s, the only restaurant of in Singapore, if not the whole world, dedicated to Alpine cuisine, to show me how far from the truth I was. Zott’s, a unique medley of restaurant and art gallery on Amoy Street, aims to bowl over with both food and interiors. From the gargantuan baby gorilla that looks at you longingly from a painting as you walk in, to the stuffed head of an ox belonging to the owner, which is mounted in the centre of the kitchen, the interiors amaze before the food. That is, however, before native alpine chef Lorenz-Maria Griesser begins to work his magic. Chef Lorenz has broken down the food from the 1,500-km long Alps into 14 culinary regions, from France in the west, to Austria in the east. A perfect start to traversing the Alpine region with your taste buds would be the Konig Ludwig Brot, traditional Bavarian rye, spelt and malt bread, made in-house daily. The quality of the bread can be gauged by the fact that you could leave it out for a week and it wouldn’t spoil. Raeucheraal, another treat from Bavaria, comprising of house-smoked eel sprayed with strawberry perfume, will convert anyone who finds eels eerie.
As cheesy as it sounds, the Bondage Chicken is anything but. You can choose from two styles; Bavarian (paprika, curry, cayenne pepper) or Provençal (butter, thyme, salt). Both are served on a metal rod, both have to be untied and ‘unbonded’ and both are delicious. Carpaccio d’espadon is a feast for both the taste buds and the eyes. Pistachio sprinkled swordfish carpaccio is served with apple mousse wrapped in red jelly, looking every bit of the topaz apple it is intended to look like. Between the fish, the apple mousse and the pistachios, Chef Lorenz has you exactly where he wants you – in culinary bliss.
Spend some time chatting with Chef Lorenz while he is cooking and he will narrate how he spent a week in the woods on the Alps, collecting elderflowers for oil. Head down to Zott’s for Alpine wines and beers not to be found anywhere else on the island, including the divine Bavarian lager – Tegernseer Hell – that they import directly from the brewery. For sweet endings, the Kaiserschmarrn will not disappoint. Fluffy pancakes are shredded and caramelized and then served with macerated plums and homemade vanilla ice cream for that final touch of Alpine grandiose.
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Caribbean Singapore has a new address for those who want to “lime”, Caribbean slang for “hang out with friends”. Assuming the mantle of the only Caribbean restaurant in Singapore, Lime House packs in quite a punch (and loads of rum punch, of course). This Caribbean-themed restaurant and bar-lounge is spread over two stories of a heritage shophouse set on the very trendy Jiak Chuan Road. With the restaurant on the first floor, the bar and lounge on the second, as well as al-fresco areas at the front and back, you can be rest assured that there will be plenty of “liming” going on. Right from the Caribbean beats that waft through the air, the Caribbean art work adorning the walls, the colourful cocktails going around to the spice-tinged air (and a native Trinidadian owner), this restaurant is an ode to all things Caribbean. Note to diners: the food here is not for the faint-hearted. Having said that, lovers of all things spicy will never want to dine anywhere else ever again. The food here, as all Caribbean food should be, is fiery—but also, finger-smackingly good. The secret, as Chef Rizan Zalani later reveals, lies in the fact that they import scotch bonnet pepper from Holland for their homemade hot sauces and marinades.
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For starters, you cannot go wrong with Wings n’ Tings. To most, the thought of grilled chicken wings is an absolute no, for what good are wings without the crispy, cracking deep fried skin in varied shades of gold? But these are grilled and they are delicious. The stars of the menu though, without doubt, are the Jerk Chicken and the Baby Back Ribs. The Jerk Chicken, a perennial Jamaican favourite, is served with textures of sweet potato and a sweet-spicy barbecue sauce that does a good job of tantalizing the taste buds. The baby back ribs are perfectly done and glazed with homemade Trinidad barbecue sauce that is a tad more sweet than spicy, but nevertheless, delicious. The menu is peppered with other classics like Curry Goat, Fish Cakes and Red Snapper Escovitch. Freshly baked banana cake with caramelized banana and rum caramel sauce would be the perfect sweet ending to a perfect meal. But don’t just love Lime House for its food. There is plenty of rum to go around, and do not call it a day without trying one of their rum based cocktails. The Lychee Ooh Lala with a dark rum base is an interesting take on a mojito and a must-try while indulging in the national pastime of all the Caribbean islands—liming.
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Argentinian Think Argentina and a gaucho (Argentinean cowboy) pops into your head. Think of the country’s cuisine and you are bound to start visualizing a big, fat and juicy steak. That is because the Argentines love their beef, so much so that to them meat, or “carne” automatically means beef. If beef is the heart of Argentine food, then asado or barbeque is its soul. Everything from beef, pork, lamb, goat, varieties of sausages and sweetbreads are ready to be savoured hot off the grill or fire. For a taste of Argentina in the lion city, head over to Bochinche that has been creating a ruckus (bochinche in Spanish), for all the right reasons, of course, on Martin Street. Co-owned by Argentine chef, Diego Jacquet of Casa Malevo and Zoilo (for those who are familiar with the London dining scene) fame, this tapas-style restaurant is an attempt, and a very good one at that, to show that there is more to the country’s food than just its famed meat. Well, the proof lies in the pudding or in this case, the Grilled Watermelon Salad. Grilled watermelon comes topped with burrata cheese, pumpkin seeds and tomatoes. One bite and you will never want to have watermelon the plain Jane way again. Baked Provoleta is another case in point. The Argentinean cheese is served sizzling
in a pan, drizzled with honey and slivered almonds. Pair this with Pan and Manteca, delicious house-baked breads, and be ready for a savoury-sweet party in your mouth. Now, to the meats. It goes without saying that the beef here is grass-fed and imported from Argentina. Hence, any steak you order is tender, moist and bursting with flavor. Queso de Chancho are croquettes made from meat from the pig’s head and simply melts in your mouth. The secret; Bochinche uses the meat only from the cheeks and jowl, which is then boiled for seven hours. What you get are melt-in-your-mouth croquettes, served with quince jam for a sweet kick. Those who firmly believe that a true feast must always end on a sweet note will devour the Dulce de Leche Crème Brûlée, served with banana split ice cream. Dulce de leche, a thick caramel made from condensed milk is a culinary treasure and used to sweeten pretty much everything. Bochinche let us onto a little secret—they boil caramelized condensed milk for three full days to make their dulce de leche sauce.
Another reason you might want to drop into Bochinche is the exhaustive list of wines from around Argentina—a respectable producer of which, as well as specialty cocktails that incorporate unique ingredients like, yerba buena tea, chimichurri and Fernet Branca, which is without doubt, the national drink of Argentina.
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Russian Most say Russian and think caviar. To some extent, that is true. There is, however, more to Russian food. In fact, a lot more. Soups have an important place in a Russian meal, as do root vegetables like carrots, potatoes and turnips, given the cold climate. Eggs, bread and meat provide energy and warmth during the long, harsh winters. Interestingly, beef is equated with wealth and sausages are considered a poor man’s meat. Also, in Russia, it is almost a given that there will always be enough vodka at hand to wash everything down. Buyan or a Russian mythical island from local fairytales, neatly tucked away on the first level of a shophouse in the vibrant Duxton Hill neighbourhood, lets Singaporeans tuck into some authentic fare from Russia and former Soviet Union countries such as Ukraine, Georgia and Uzbekistan. The menu is sprinkled with interesting looking (and tasting) salads that find their roots in Russian cooking. The Mimosa Salad can be easily compared to a layered cake, except the layers are comprise of salmon, eggs, carrots, white onions and homemade mayo. All the flavours blend in perfectly and the salad looks even better then it tastes. Lovers of the forgotten herring will devour the Herring Under Fur Coat, another layered salad comprised of salted herring, beetroot, potatoes and carrots. Pelmeni, classic Russian bite-size dough pockets stuffed with mixed meats, are another must-try. Borscht, a Russian staple made of
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beef broth with cabbage and beetroot, should be tasted to know what the fuss is all about. The Cossack Lamb will remind you of the shepherd’s pie your mother makes, only this one is a lot better! Tender lamb chunks are topped with mashed potato and cheese and baked in a beautiful clay pot. The Beef Stroganov is another hearty dish, with cubed beef sitting on a bed of mash and topped with a creamy mushroom sauce. It is delicious and definitely not to be missed. For those of you who are scanning the page for the word ‘caviar’, yes, Buyan serves that too. However, it will be heartening to know that Buyan gets its stash from Israel, and from farmed sturgeons at that. In fact, as a restaurant with a conscience, the wild boar and geese are also farmed. Furthermore, vegetarian gourmands will be thrilled to know that Buyan offers a complete vegetarian menu as well. One is most likely to feel rather full after
all the meat and potatoes and so satiate your sweet buds with a (believe it or not) light Russian offering–Milk Kissel, cream and berry jelly paired into something luscious and light. As expected, the restaurant holds an enviable collection of more than 50 labels of vodkas. The house infusions follow recipes dating back to the early 18th century, with flavours such as horseradish and cloudberry. Buyan also imports kvass, a fermented beverage made from rye bread that has very low alcohol content and is drank even by children in Russia. Buyan is also the only restaurant outside Russia to carry Abrau-Durso, a sparkling wine that has been produced in Russia since 1891. Ask to peek at the bottle of Veuve Clicquot which was produced in the 1840s and salvaged from a shipwreck or Heidseick Co. Monopole dated 1907 from the private collection of Tsar Nicholas II, found in yet another shipwreck.
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Sanctuary for the Senses Finally, escape from it all at Singapore’s getaway du jour, Sentosa Island, particularly The Singapore Resort and Spa Sentosa. Perched atop a cliff and commanding 27 acres of tropical greens, this tranquil haven, just minutes away from the central business district, is where the city’s well-heeled head to get away from the urban hum. Think strutting peacocks, koi-filled ponds and unrivalled views of the South China Sea. Flanked by two 18-hole championship golf courses, the beach is only a few steps away. Managed by Accor, this 215-room resort boasts of four Villas du Jardin units, which are sprawling garden villas that open to a terrace and a private lap pool. Each comes with a living room, two bedrooms, and, not to forget, some immaculately manicured foliage. The stunning interiors by Ed Tuttle blend seamlessly with the low-rise architecture and decades-old native trees. The atmosphere, calm and soothing, is made for endless lounging. Gourmands can opt for The Terrace, an all-day dining restaurant with a charming alfresco setting, popular for its Sunday brunch. Those looking to savour an English afternoon tea or catch the last golden rays of the sun can give in to their every whim at The Pavillion, an open air lounge set amongst water lily ponds. But the jewel in the resort’s crown is its signature restaurant, The Cliff. Perched atop— you guessed it—a cliff, this restaurant offers views of the South China Sea that are second to none. This award- winning restaurant offers contemporary cuisine inspired by the sea. Its state-of-the-art show kitchen, with cascading water features and glass columns, showcases the near-perfect interiors designed by famed Japanese architect Yasuhiro Koichi. The Cliff, offering spectacular food and a matching ambience, has truly become that special-occasion place for the swish set of the city.
Those looking to embark on a journey to rediscover their senses would find So Spa the perfect starting point—the 6,000-square metre heritage site has it all. With14 indoor treatment rooms, six outdoor pavilions with private gardens, and unique indoor and outdoor treatment facilities, guests are spoilt for choice. So Spa is also home to Asia’s first mud pools and float pools with a cascading waterfall. If you’re looking to spend quality time with no one but yourself, head to the meditative labyrinth, another first in Asia. For women who like their privacy, a special ladies-only area is located within the lush spa gardens. On the other hand, there is a socializing patio for spa-goers looking to mingle. Guests can cocoon themselves in this little sanctuary, while just a stone’s throw away from Universal Studios, the casino at Resorts World Sentosa, many water parks and a whole host of other attractions that this little island is so renowned for. Singapore never ceases to amaze when it comes to the variety of eats on offer. Whichever type of cuisine you’re craving, chances are, the lion city has it—or at least its own version of it—available somewhere. Clearly, the chilli crab is just a small portion of the entire smorgasbord that Singapore has in store.
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SHANGHAI’S
European FLAIR Taken by the cross-cultural charisma of the Chinese mega city, Kevin Watson Tsai recalls the splendour of Shanghai through its most picturesque districts. PHOTOS BY JAKOB WAGNER AND MOMO BRIAN
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have been to eight cities on Mainland China so far and while most of them are very similar to each other, anyone who has been to Shanghai will know that it is distinctly unlike the rest: the city is noticeably cleaner, the people more cultured, and the architecture, an ideal blend of east and west. The last time I went to Shanghai was earlier this year and I discovered that winter is the perfect time to visit. Clad in our best coats and scarves, my party and I became one with the locals as we braved through the piercing cold and what a truly exhilarating experience it was. This trip allowed me to corroborate reports that Shanghai has rightfully overtaken Hong Kong and Tokyo as Asia’s most fashionable city. Incidentally, Shanghai also happens to be China’s most expensive and populated city, in part due to a burgeoning international community. But historically, Shanghai has always had foreigners in its city – particularly those with European origins. Today, despite its extensive and highly advanced railway and metro network, remnants of its colonial past still abound and two airports keep welcoming more and more visitors
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into the city; Hongqiao International for domestic and regional flights and Pudong International for international flights, of which the latter is currently accessible by the Shanghai Maglev Train. Nostalgic, Futuristic, Romantic Shanghai’s The Bund, which is a term for a causeway or raised land that runs alongside a body of water, is its iconic attraction. As part of the former British Concession, the colonial-era architecture on one side of the Huangpu River contrasts marvellously against the modern-day skyscrapers on the other, where you can get a glimpse of some of the tallest buildings in all of China. These symbols of the nation’s economic achievements in the Pudong financial district set against the background of classic art deco structures truly imbibe the best of both worlds. In 1984, The Bund was featured in the novel Empire of the Sun, which drew from personal experiences of British author J. G. Ballard. It was later adapted into a highly-acclaimed film of the same name by Steven Spielberg, starring a young Christian Bale, and was shot on
Jakob Wagner / www.jakobwagner.eu
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location as well. In the mornings these days, tai chi aficionados come here to practice and families with young children come to fly kites. The vicinity is also a coveted choice for lovers on dates and for engaged couples to shoot their prenuptial photos. As day turns to night, the buildings on one side of the bund become more prominent with an opulent glow as the skyscrapers animate the river with reflections of their lustrous colours. While there is a nightly light show, on New Year’s Eve, it becomes a celebrated, more dazzling and grander spectacle in 4D. Places of interest nearby include the dome of the HSBC Building and the piece de resistance of the century-old Customs House in the form of its prominent clock tower. A number of foreign consulates are also aptly located in this zone. Tourists can take a Huangpu river cruise for a few hours or a short ferry ride to get to the other side of Pudong. While The Bund can get overcrowded and some locals may have motives to scam unsuspecting individuals (as is the case in most tourist areas), it is nevertheless the non-negotiable must-visit attraction in Shanghai. The Bund exhibits one of the best skylines in the world--the only way I could describe how breathtaking it is is like seeing it for the first time, every time.
Splendid Views, From Your Room The best way to catch unrestricted, scintillating views of the esplanade without the busy crowds would be to simply stay at any of the district’s finest hotels or lounge on their rooftop bars. Fairmont Peace Hotel is a historical landmark that’s located right in the centre of The Bund. Restored to its former glory, it is known for its immaculate halls and sophisticated elegance. This hotel will certainly take you back in time by exuding old-world charm and by having paid much attention to the level of detail from a century ago. The Peninsula Shanghai is regarded as one of the best among the brand’s properties worldwide. Particularly notable are its substantial breakfast choices and the Princess 54, which is the hotel’s yacht offering private luxury cruises that can be booked by hotel guests for small groups of up to ten people. The Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund offers exceptional service and complimentary in-room sweets, which are a nice touch after a long day of walking. You can also choose to unwind at their legendary Long Bar, the longest bar in the world and recognized as the best one in Shanghai, thanks in part to its expert bartenders. Hotel Indigo, a member of the InterCon-
tinental Hotels Group, is a fabulous modern property with its chic design, personalized service and natural-based toiletries. Its tasteful interiors are in line with one of the hotel chain’s objectives of showcasing contemporary artwork by local artists. There are also options for those who want to relax away from the throngs of tourists. The Banyan Tree Shanghai On The Bund, one of the newest hotels farther away on the northern end, can be can be likened to a resort in the city. It is known for its spacious rooms and huge circular bath tubs that also offer panoramic views of the skyline. Diners staying at a different part of the city who still want to enjoy the view can go for European cuisine and some wine at the M on the Bund restaurant and proceed to the Glamour Bar at the floor below for some cocktails. The French Connection For almost fifty years, France ruled an enclave in the city since it was handed to them in 1849. Today, the French Concession still has European-style architecture along its treelined streets. It is a charming little suburb with a significant expatriate community. Huaihai Road is another famous shopping street in Shanghai (after Nanjing Road) that was used to
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be known by one of its former names Avenue Joffre. The French Concession has several districts that cater to visitors. First stop is Xintiandi, an affluent neighbourhood in the Luwan district of downtown Shanghai. It also holds much historical significance, including the former residence of President Sun Yat-Sen now turned into a museum. Literally meaning ‘New Heaven and Earth’, this region has preserved traditional shikumen (Western-influenced Shanghainese design) architecture and was redeveloped into the urban lifestyle centre it is today. The no-vehicle pedestrian street elicits a trendy atmosphere with its cafes, art galleries and boutiques, just as a happening nightlife scene, watering holes and restaurants serving global cuisines draw in many travellers who come for leisure. You can also find the Xintiandi Style shopping mall
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which houses international fashion brands as well as shops by Asian designers. Next is Tianzifang, one of my favourite places to keep coming back to in all of my travels, a quaint hipster district that’s thriving in creativity. From Taikang Road, enter an unassuming alleyway surrounded by old brick walls where you will notice young locals come to have a fun time. Although there are plenty of bars, artist studios and shops where you can buy quirky souvenirs and other kitschy stuff in its nooks and crannies, some residential areas have still been retained. Despite the tourist prices, it’s a good place to shop because you can bargain for great finds that are not available in typical malls, and you know you’re supporting local businesses instead of corporations – which in my opinion is the least anyone can do to give back while travelling.
Lastly, head to Xujiahui in Xuhui District, a major commercial centre popular for electronics. Visit Xujiahui Library, the oldest existing library in Shanghai, and find solemnity (or a remarkable photo opportunity) at the St. Ignatius Cathedral or the Longhua Temple, -two of the largest and oldest Catholic and Buddhist places of worship in Shanghai, respectively. Although everyone can certainly relish luxurious experiences, Shanghai reminds me that the best things in life are its simple pleasures, such as taking a pleasant stroll along the boardwalk, being inspired by the city’s architecture or having a cup of warm coffee in the cold weather. No other Chinese city comes close to evoking this sensation.
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