Issue: 1
Date: May 2013
Greetings! This is a journal of research and resources for vintage and antique collecting and sales. I invite you to join me on a journey through the fascinating world of vintage and antique collections, sales, video, research, resources, and history. Many subjects and categories will be covered as we venture through the collections. If you have a images, unique subject or item, sale, article or collection to contribute please contact me at DLSpecialties. Table of Contents Featured Article: By Estee Byrd “Zsolnay� Page 2 Albert Weiss
Page 5
Antique &Vintage Brooch Clasps & Hinges
Page 9
Tea Party Treasures Page 10 Featured Shops, Dealers, Subscribers and Team Member Shops
Page 13
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Zsolnay By Estee Byrd There are many who admire and collect beautiful porcelain pieces. Each hand painted piece is an art work but some are more noteworthy than others. The Zsolnay (pronounced zolnay, the “s” is silent) company of Hungary is one of my favorites. It began in 1853 when Miklos Zsolany began a manufacturing studio for his son, Ignac. Within ten years Ignac’s younger brother took over the management and turned Zsolnay into a factory run in a standardized manner. Their first major success came in 1873 at the World Exhibition that was held in Vienna. These World Exhibitions were the equivalent of the 1) Zsolnay Art Deco nude figurine Olympics for porcelain and ceramics. The success was measured by a great many orders from England, France and America. The success in exhibitions continued through the years and helped establish the company. In 1896 Zsolnay developed its beautiful pieces made of eosin. Eosin is a unique product and Zsolnay is the only manufacturer in the world that makes products in this fashion. Essentially a complex process, it involves a metal oxide reduced glaze. The first of the colors created was red fired then the pieces would be decorated with unleaded glazes. (note: this is the proper way to describe the process---it is indeed a reduced glaze, i.e. think cooking, making a reduction of a sauce etc.) Eosin gives a very different play to color and light. Vintage Journal by DLSpecialties
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Zsolnay also makes pieces using a process which produces a product they call “pyrogranite” and the end result is ceramic that is suitable for ornamentation and decoration of buildings and tiles. Many of the decorations are very Persian in style. Beautiful examples of these forms can be Estee Byrd seen online at the Zsolnay Museum where a virtual tour is available. “My professional background has been in the human services field as an While eosin is Zsolnay’s staple, I R.N., and later as a social worker/therapist personally prefer their delicate porcelain specializing in geriatrics. I have products and have been fortunate to both BSN and MSW degrees. I have worked in some area of antiques and acquire a few over the years. Their Art collectibles since 1992. I own shops on both Deco era pieces are of a special delicacy, Ruby Lane and Etsy. as you will notice in the photo of the http://www.etsy.com/shop/AntiquesduJour http://www.rubylane.com/shop/antiquesdujour nude lady that is pictured here. During WWII everything changed in most Find me on Face Book European cities. Zsolnay produced at:https://www.facebook.com/antiquesdujour?r industrial porcelain for military uses, ef=hl Follow me on Twitter: Estee Byrd@EsteeByrd “ mainly insulators for electricity. After the War, Hungary was impoverished and the factory was terribly affected. The factory was nationalized in 1948. It went through several more changes during the post War years and in 1991 it was again became a privatized company. It continues to produce beautiful and unusual decorative wares for the home and for architectural purposes. The beautiful wares of Zsolnay can be seen on many buildings including the Hungarian Institute of Geology, Museum for Industrial Art, Jakkab Palace in Kassa, as well as cathedrals and synagogues to name just a few. If you are unfamiliar with Zsolnay, do take a bit of time to explore it. Here is a good place to start, the Zsolnay Museum http://www.pbase.com/helenpb/zsolnaymuseum and another excellent online source to view some of the magnificent pieces held in a private collection http://www.pbase.com/helenpb/gyugyi Vintage Journal by DLSpecialties
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Weiss ~ If you have an interest in vintage costume jewelry you know that name and signature. If you are new to vintage costume jewelry you need to get to know this designer. The designer Albert Weiss is well known for the creation of vibrant beautiful, high quality costume jewelry between 1942 and 1969. Much of the Weiss jewelry was unsigned. The unsigned items were wholesaled out to department stores and other venues. Weiss used high quality brilliant rhinestones. The Weiss Jewelry Co. like many in that day and now, made jewelry for the very high end and low end customer. No matter what level you find today the attention to detail never waned. I almost missed the signature on this stunning bracelet. I made the mistake of just checking the clasp the first time I tried to identify this sparkler. I put it in my unmarked jewelry drawer. When I pulled it to list it in my shop I was taking pictures when I saw to my surprise the WEISS signature on the back of one of the crystal rhinestone settings. Albert Weiss a New Yorker worked for Coro and Marvella during his career. In 1942 he opened on Fifth Avenue, NY and retired in 1969. [His son Michael took over until 1971] Weiss jewelry reached its height of popularity in 1950’s and 60’s.
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I have read that Albert Weiss did not manufacture his own designs. Instead he used jobbers that included other well-known costume jewelry names. I find it interesting to research jewelry patents. Many designers patented their designs. Weiss Signatures and Marks "Jewels by Albert Weiss" was used on jewelry carding and in advertising 1942 WEISS in block letters 1940s -1950s Weiss in script Albert Weiss New York Weiss-N.Y. 1947 Weissco 1951 A W Co. is a graphic with ‘W’ as crown. © WEISS after 1955 Because Albert Weiss produced signed designs for a relatively short period of time the value and price of his treasures today are harder to find and sell for and are priced accordingly. All the Weiss jewelry presented here display the Weiss signature and markings and to best of knowledge is vintage and authentic. However, be careful, there are fakes on the market. Here is an article by Vintage Costume Jewels “How to spot fake Weiss Jewelry”. The beautiful Weiss Strawberry Brooch displayed here with the glorious vintage Ruby red and Emerald green rhinestones is signed right below the stem on the back. This is approximately mid 20th century. The black on the back of this is called “Japanned”. This term is used to describe the finish when metal is finished with a lustrous black lacquer, giving it a unique look. The process called “Jappaned” Jewelry can be varnish with a resin base that is Vintage Journal by DLSpecialties
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heat dried layers that is polished to a glossy finish this is the European process. Often Victorian mourning jewelry of Queen Victoria’s era display this feature. This mourning connection appeared in Europe in the 19th century appearing on jewelry made popular after the death of Prince Albert in 1861. The lacquer process was originated in the Asian countries (Japan, India, China) for coating Pottery and adapted to Jewelry. Look closely at the clasp on this wonderful piece it can help give you the age and era when researching this and other brooches. In this issue of Vintage Journal is a journal entry about identifying clasps.
This is an exquisite example of Weiss quality, style and glamor. There is a video of this to show the life and sparkle in these stones. The iridescent rainbow colors in the blue crystal rhinestones, accented by the white round and baguette crystal rhinestones make this a piece to be envied and admired. However, brooches do not stand alone in the Weiss assortment of amazing jewelry. Famous for their black diamond rhinestone the rhinestone necklace shown here is an example of the smoke gray rhinestones, called black diamonds, that is attributed to Weiss. This one has both gray and white crystal rhinestones the most prominent gray rhinestone is the navette (marquise) stone at the center of the necklace. Vintage Journal by DLSpecialties
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The combination gives this a sophisticated impression. Additional Thoughts Arum Rhinestones: Weiss was one of the few who used metallic rhinestones. Arum refers to the gold metallic rhinestone. A well-known Weiss "design" is the octagonal or emerald cut stones. Etsy
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2) Contributed by: Sonja L Brekhus
3) Contributed by: Diana Farquhar
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As my collecting took a turn into selling and the opening of my first shop the importance of accurate descriptions and identifications took a front seat. This is an on -going journey. I am told by many whom I would consider expert’s that the journey never ends. Looking and learning for more information to make the identification a bit quicker and easier is an ongoing process. I have accumulated a journal full of resources that I use often. These are just a few videos I would like to share with you because I found them so helpful. I would like to thank Antiques Avenue for the video. These videos will show and explain way to ID Antique and Vintage clasps and hinges that will give you clues to dating your jewelry. 4) Vintage Jewellery and how to date a vintage brooch from the catch 4) How to date a vintage brooch from the catch video 1
Test yourself [name,year]: A C
G
B D
H
I
E
J
F
K
answers on page 14
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Tea Parties hold special memories for me and for many others. Whether as a child or an adult the tea party is a very special social event, then and now. My sister would have tea parties with her grandchildren. I was always delighted to be invited to the magic that was in the air and the eyes of their grandchildren. The girls spared no detail which made these events even more special. Adorned with hats, vintage jewels, gloves, shawls, fans, we dressed in the garb befitting the event. The table was always dressed for the occasion too. The assortment of tea cups, saucers, some matched some mismatched, which were passed through time. The vintage tea pots filled with the steaming variety of teas were surrounded by tea cake plates. Tea cakes made from recipes passed along the generations decorated the plates. And on occasion candle sticks ,doilies, napkins, basket and a vase full of flowers also graced the table. The individual cake plates yearning for the assortment to be added. I bookmarked two shops while researching for a gift Antiques and Tea Cups and Garden Party Teas both worth the browse. There are many wonderful sites for tea party history and lore. Most vintage and antique shops have items that fit right into this theme. I put together some items that caught my eye, and listed them below. I hope they spark memories and plans for your next tea party. Featured Examples
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~A~ A Vintage Jewel Antiques and Teacups Antiques and Teacups at Etsy Attic Dust Antiques AntiquesduJour
~G~
~Q~
~H~ Herbgirl And Vintage Hometown Vintage
~R~
~I~ ~B~ Bergetta Art Bohemian Trading Bit of Hope ~C~ Cape house antiques Cobayley Cousins Antiques Czech Glass Collector ~D~ Dianadivine DreamLand Specialties D’Vintiques Dream Maiden Designs darnamichie ~E~ Eclectic Vintager ~F~ Forever More
~J~ ~K~ Kyzar Estate Antiques
~S~ Sfuso sdbees1030 ~T~ The Jewelry Ladys Store ~U~ Ultimate Adornment
~L~ Lipmeister Lewellyn Road Lorettas Cache
~V~ Vintage On Wings Vintage Paige Vintage Jewelry Lane Vintage scrap shop
~M~ My Parents Attick Marions Vintage Bakery
~W~ Waalaa Wood And Treasures 12
~N~
~X~
~O~ Out of the Attic 2 U
~Y~ ~Z~
~P~
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Answers for Clasps and hinge test for identifying and dating brooches Generally C-clasps tell you the piece is before 1890s. The earliest a simple round wire with no closure that look as though they are part of the brooch. The more the pin extends past the clasp the older the brooch. (mid 1800s) wider flat C-clasps were used up until 1900. Victorian brooches have tube hinges that are wider. Often these had pinstems that were handmade. As time passed the tube hinges became smaller. In the Edwardian era hinges were narrow width and the riveted hinges were introduced. In that era they did use C clasps but the pinstem was shorter and did not go past the edge of the brooch. The safety clasps were invented about 1910, the early designs were different than the modern safety clasp, lever rolls down not upwards. 1920s saw the invention of the fold over safety clasp. This held the hefty jeweled jewelry more securely. There are always exceptions to the rule… Resources http://www.realorrepro.com/article/Dating-brooch-fasteners
A. TROMBONE 1940 Patented in 1850 used in Europe to the mid-1950s - B.C CLASP [THE FIRST CLASP- C. LATER C CLASP flat C mid 1800 – 1900 D. 1896(Europe) – 1912 (USA) Edwardian E. 1890s C-clasp and riveted hinge F. C-Clasp Tube hinge late 1800s G. 1896(Europe) – 1912 (USA) Edwardian H. Safety Pin Clasp – I. 1896(Europe) – 1912 (USA) Edwardian early safety clasp that is in back and rolls down. – J. Rivet Hinge K. C-clasp with rivet hinge late 1800s to early 1900s
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