Mexico Report

MEXICO REPORT By CAPT. PAT RAINS

Map of Mexico showing fast & slow routes, holiday stops, airports.

HOT FOR THE HOLIDAY’S ITINERARY

AS WE WEST COAST boaters prepare to depart our home ports along the chilly northern Pacific, I suggest a robust Mexico cruising itinerary. Let’s call it “Hot for the Holidays.” For your southbound escape during November, December, and January, this itinerary is ideal for eight-knot powerboats with longer legs (ample fuel tankage).

Pack away your foul-weather gear Santa, because quick as a wink this holiday itinerary gets you and your elves down south into those 85-degree tropics. HOT for the Holidays

We’re going to dash down Baja, zoom across to the mainland, and continue coasting south as quickly as possible until making a big U-turn at Zihuatanejo and Ixtapa. There we begin slowly gunk-holing our way back northwest while working on our tans in bathing-suit weather.

Why so far south, so fast? Because parts of the Sea of Cortez are colder in winter than most first-time cruisers (and their guests) expect. Screaming Blue Northers can keep all boats pegged down for days on end. We’ll initially bypass Los Cabos and La Paz, but we’ll stop there after water temperatures warm up.

How fast? This hot-paced 8-knot itinerary gets you from Ensenada non-stop to Los Cabos in four days, then across and down to Ixtapa in three more days. If you plan to depart the U.S. about Nov. 10 –

Ixtapa is an excellent place to stop, make a U-turn to begin holiday cruising north. Marina Ixtapa has fuel and a haul-out yard, while nearby Zihuatanejo is a legendary cruising stop. (Pat Rains photo)

Isla Ixtapa is uninhabited, just a few beach cantinas within swimming distance in this north cove. (Pat Rains photo)

15, you can defrost that stateside turkey in time for a Thanksgiving feast with tequila gravy by the holiday. However, start making your marina reservations now. ITINERARY

Ensenada Entry: At 60 n.m. south of San Diego, get your boat and crew swiftly cleared into Mexico during a two-day stop at Ensenada at the handy CIS port-clearance office. Boaters will find one fuel dock, three marinas, two boat yards, and ample banks, cell-phone stores, and provisioning opportunities. Soak it up Santa, because Ensenada offers the last yacht services you’ll see for about 850 n.m. Now hook up your reindeer and make all speed southeast for your “dash down Baja.”

Turtle Bay: Scoot non-stop down the blustery Pacific coast of the Baja California, Norte to arrive at tiny Turtle Bay, about 320 n.m. from Ensenada. Turtle Bay provides the region’s only reliable all-weather overnight anchorage, and it’s so remote that it has no port officials, just a tall pier where you can top off with diesel.

However, Turtle Bay is an optional stop. If you’re carrying ample fuel and enough crew to rotate watches safely, you might opt to zoom on by. Don’t worry about missing anything here right now, because later, when you have to dash back north, you’ll see way more of this rather dreary coastline than you might wish for.

Santa Maria Bay: About 235 n.m. down the coast, if you only need an overnight rest stop, consider undeveloped Bahia Santa Maria just north of Magdalena Bay. The easy in and out anchorage spreads across the north end of the bay. No fuel or water here, just

Barra de Navidad (Christmas Bar) makes a pleasant holiday landfall thanks to Marina Isla Navidad, Grand Bay resort, two lagoon anchorages, and the funky beach town known as “Barra.” (Pat Rains photo)

Las Hadas Marina at Manzanillo is fantastic, a great alternative to Barra, if the ‘21-22 Panama Posse headquarters have scooped up all the slips. Manzanillo has about eight separate anchorages along the bay’s north shore. (Pat Rains photo)

a rest stop in prevailing northwest winds.

Stop ‘n Go at Cabo: What!? Not hang out at legendary Cabo San Lucas? Nope. The intrepid holiday voyager will glide quietly into the outer anchorage, drop the hook for a good night’s sleep and be ready to depart after the morning weather reports. You do want a good weather window to scoot 360 n.m. southeast and make landfall off the mainland near Barra de Navidad.

Cross to Navidad: From Cabo San Lucas we head southeast, heading about 127-degrees for 360 n.m. At an average of eight knots, this crossing should take about 45 hours. During our last 85 n.m. we’ll gradually close with the craggy coast. We’ll make landfall at 19°11.657’N, 105°50.091’W, or about 1.5 n.m. offshore of a bold detached rock pinnacle called Cabeza Navidad. If you departed Cabo San Lucas at 10:00 a.m. on a Monday, you should arrive here about sunrise on Wednesday.

Barra de Navidad: About 10 n.m. east is the small resort of Barra de Navidad, or Christmas Bar. December 2 through 7 about 100 cruising boats with the Panama Posse will fill this port for their southbound seminars and kick-off party. So, now might be a good opportunity to fuel up and unwind in a full-service slip at elegant Marina Puerto Isla Navidad, or drop the hook in the port’s two lagoons. “Barra” is an excellent place to pick up fly-in guests at nearby Manzanillo airport.

Coastal Point Hop: It’s only 200 n.m. down to Ixtapa, so let’s

Near La Paz, the uninhabited Espiritu Santos (Holy Spirit) Islands are a favorite with kayakers, divers, and cruising boaters getting away for the winter holidays. (Pat Rains photo)

run this coast non-stop by staying about 1.75 to 3.75 n.m. off these points of land: Punta Campos (Manzanillo), Cabeza Negra, Punta San Telmo, Punta Piedras Blancas, Punta Lizardo, Bufadero Bluff (Caleta de Campos), Punta Manglar (Puerto Lazaro Cardenas) and Punta Tracones.

U-Turn at Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo: Finally, let’s relax here for the first holiday in a long season. Marina Ixtapa has 600 slips to 160’ LOA, a 90’ end-tie fuel dock, a 100-ton sling lift, chandlers, groceries, spas, boutique shops, an 18-hole golf course, and nice condos. Ixtapa’s beach hotel zone was built in 1975, while the marina was carved out of a jungle lagoon. At least one crocodile still haunts the marina docks, so keep Fido safe. Although this marina generates year-round world-class sportfishing tournaments, it caters to power and sailboat cruisers from November to April.

Zihuatanejo Bay lies only seven miles southeast by boat is a world apart in ambiance. No marina, but five small coves line this one-mile enclosed bay backed by steep jungle hills. Just past the striped municipal pier, you’ll find Playa Principal anchorage, the port captain and Navy office, and most of the historic fishing town. City buses whisk us back to Marina Ixtapa.

Thanksgiving: Don’t count on buying a decent fresh turkey down here; it’s a uniquely American holiday. Before leaving home, we bought frozen turkey breasts and legs, packed them in a cooler with dry ice. When ready, thaw slowly and marinate them in a mango tequila sauce. Roast or grill your T-bird on deck or the dock on November 25. U.S. expats traditionally gather to share their gratitude and sea stories.

Start North? If we want to spend winter holidays on the Gold Coast or Costa Alegre, Manzanillo and Puerto Vallarta are good choices. To get an early start cruising back north let’s anchor overnight at uninhabited Isla Ixtapa. With a weather report of flat conditions to get us 70 n.m. up the coast, we’ll lay a course for Caleta de Campos, say 8.75 hours.

Caleta de Campos: Anchor in the NW half of this pretty halfmoon bay to gain shelter NW of the flat breakwater and easiest access to the coco palm-studded dinghy beach. Stairs go to the pleasant town (also called Bufadero Bluff) atop the hill. Ask a panguero guide to show you the Cara de Nixon on the rocky shore.

Any excuse for a potluck: Thanksgiving and the December holidays find ex-pat boaters gathering to share good food and Mexico sea stories. (Pat Rains photo)

Cabeza Negra 65 n.m. (8.25 hours) up the coast is a black, double-sided headland with a beach anchorage on both sides. Locals said the name refers to a black bull with stubby horns; each beach has a reef to avoid on approach. The north side is usually calmer for overnighting off the small coco-palm beach.

Manzanillo Bay 45 n.m. (5.75 hours) up the coast could occupy an active family for a month: fairytale Moorish architecture wows guests at Marina Las Hadas, but so do eight anchorages, beach cantinas, diving reefs, sailfish fishing, lagoon kayaking, shopping, provisioning, charming historic town, and the international airport to drop off or pick up guests.

Famous Gold Coast stops northbound are Barra de Navidad, Melaque, Tenacatita, Careyes, and Chamela Bay before we round Cabo Corrientes.

Puerto Vallarta and Banderas Bay: So vast are the amenities that 2,000 boats berth year-round: four marinas, two boat yards, two fuel docks, and gorgeous Puerto Vallarta all gracing the bay’s 20-mile north shore. Daytime temps are 75 to 85-degrees in December, January, and February. Get off the boat in PV for cultural adventures like the Chocolate Workshop, Art Walk, Jungle Zip Line, or Tequila Factory tour.

Lower Sea of Cortez Circuit: Now that you’ve caught up with warmer weather, I suggest you make this counter-clockwise circuit - Puerto Vallarta, north to Guayabitos, Chacala, San Blas, Isla Isabela, Mazatlan, Altata, and the marina at Topolobampo. Here you can take a train up through the Copper Canyon. Then cross 115 n.m. to Puerto Escondido’s fine marina and begin cruising south via Agua Verde, Los Gatos, Evaristo, Isla San Jose, and the Espiritu Santos Islands to end at La Paz.

May the spirit of joyous holidays guide your course this winter.