RUNNING: The Kilimanjaro Marathon - One of the world's most scenic races

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inTRAIL:

Words: Georgia Chennells ǀ Photos: Debbie Addison, Wild Frontiers

The

Kilimanjaro

Marathon

One of the world's most scenic races

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The race starts in Moshi Stadium just after dawn, with Kilimanjaro providing a breathtaking backdrop.

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The Kilimanjaro Premium Lager Marathon, taking place from the Tanzanian town of Moshi and under the highest freestanding mountain in the world, is a scenic road race now in its 11th year. The event, set up to promote the sport in Tanzania, has expanded with the support of Kilimanjaro Premium Lager into a weekendlong festival of running and music, making it arguably one of the biggest events in the country. The area already draws international tourists to climb the mountain, which usually takes a week to ascend and descend at the 'pole pole' ('slowly slowly' in kiSwahili) pace, and involves much padded clothing, porters and the occasional bout of altitude sickness. The Kili Marathon, on the other hand, draws locals and tourists alike in a vibrant and sociable celebration that lasts a few days in late February every year. Set in the buzzing little trading hub of Moshi in the shadow of Kili, as she is affectionately known, the marathon is a challenging route that passes through the sleepy Sunday morning townscape and then moves upwards through the foothills of the mountain. The scenery is spectacular as runners move through banana groves, coffee plantations, natural forest and small villages, and being early morning the sky is generally clear, allowing Kili's spectacular glacier to preside over it all. The marathon, at 42.2 km, is the anchor attraction drawing just under 300 runners from Germany to Guatemala. The remaining 5,500 or so entrants are mainly registered for the 21.1 km Half Marathon or the 5 km Fun Run, and there is also a well-supported Corporate Race and Disabled Half Marathon.

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A runner with his arms outstretched

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With the starting pistol sounding half an hour after sunrise, participants enjoy the fresh morning temperatures and spectacular views before the mercury rises and a cloud obscures the glacier above. The route leaves Moshi Stadium and heads down towards the town, then along the main road eastwards for approximately 8-9 km. After this, it turns back and heads through town again and then up a long, steady ascent towards Mweka, which is one of the routes up the summit. The uphill climb is gradual, but with Kilimanjaro towering above and plenty of sponsored refreshment stations there are enough distractions to not notice. At the uppermost point of the route, past several historic coffee plantations and cheering crowds, is the 32 km turnaround point where runners swivel around and track back downhill to the stadium for the finish. Overall, it's a very well supported route, with several local sponsors having a festive time dressing up, decorating their water tables and shouting about. It's not uncommon to hear a vuvuzela or drumming coming from behind the water tables either! Having been on a less rigorous training programme, I opted to run the Half Marathon, which guaranteed me plenty of scenery as it joined the Full Marathon on its last 21 or so kilometres.

What I hadn't anticipated was that the route, climbing through the foothills, was indeed a climb! Rising about 400 m in the first 10 km or so to the highest contour, the turnaround point, the gradient was gentle but required a measure of endurance that was the real challenge!

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Water tables, festivities and banter with fellow runners helped to distract, but at the 9 km mark interactions were, like the air, noticeably thin. Reaching the 10.5 km turnaround point was a highlight for all, and relief and euphoria shone from sweaty faces as the runners turned their backs on the snow covered summit, its gathering clouds and rainbows, and cruised downhill! On nearing the stadium for the finish, the jiving tunes and the rocket-fuelled MC's voice grew louder and clearer, though it was still unclear exactly what his Swahili words meant.

The atmosphere was electric, with local bands and dancers, crowds of supporters, sponsors' tents teeming with merrymakers and a variety of food and drink for sale from the Kilimanjaro Premium Lager (compulsory!) to the Tanzanian-style shisa-nyama. Crossing the finish line, I knew I had worked hard for my medal and T-shirt! Soon afterwards, I was sipping my trophy beer in the shade of the Wild Frontiers tent, stringing out stories with others and congratulating finishers as they joined us. A perk of booking the marathon through Wild Frontiers, the organisers of the race, was the catering tent that was positioned with a view of the finish line. This shady oasis was fully stocked with a variety of refreshments, and the bonus was the massage corner, where local massage therapists were kneading their way through bottles of arnica. Perks aside, the prize money of 3 million Tanzanian Shillings (approximately R17 000) for the marathon winners draws a number of professional athletes to compete. This year, despite the international influx, the East African highlanders upheld their reputation and dominated the medal scoop. While the local crowd was rooting for Lioshiye Moikan, Andrea Sambu and other Tanzanian athletes, it was the Kenyans who took home the bulk of the golds.

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Pan through coffee plantations

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The Full Marathon was won by Kipkemoi Kipsang in 02:14:58 and Edna Joseph (women) in 02:39:06, both were from Kenya. The Half Marathon winner was another Kenyan, Silah Limo in 01:03:49. The Tanzanians finally got their gold in Sara Makera, whose time of 01:13:39 made her the fastest woman on the 21.1 km course. There were plenty of runners who were not there for the golds though and a good handful of South African 'howzits' were heard. Many of those I spoke to were combining their Moshi jaunt with a week away at Zanzibar, gorilla trekking in neighbouring countries or visiting one of the famous wildlife reserves in the area. A massive contingent of backpackers had also pulled through, recognisable by their trail-and-hiking kits converted to running gear, which I thought was very admirable. I also enjoyed meeting a canine competitor. With five minutes to the starting pistol, I met the first Scotsman I've ever seen in lycra, who was standing next to me with his wirehaired terrier. It turned out they lived in the nearby town of Arusha and had come for the race. Barney, the dog, was at his side, looking alert. "Is he going to be running with you?" I asked the man. "No. I'll be running with him!" he replied. "He's let me come on three so far!" There proved to be plenty of engaging company on the road and a great vibe about the race as people bantered about where they were from and how stunning the view was. Amongst them were some entertaining costumes too, from two men in chicken suits (a corporate team) to a European running in a Maasai blanket.

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Kilimanjaro as the backdrop.

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WINNER HALF MARATHON, also Kenyan – Silah Limo

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(Above) CFAO Motors - a local corporate and some fancy dress (Right) WINNER FULL MARATHON, Kenyan, Kipkemoi Kipsang (Below) A runner representing South Africa

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Several runners were also were using the race to raise awareness or funds for charity organisations. Martin Parnell was one such runner who had run 250 marathons in a year in a quest to raise funds for Right To Play, a children's charity. This apparently was his 251st and fifth continent. The event organisers also use the influence of the race to benefit local Tanzanian charity organisations, Molly's Network and Amani Children's Home, as well as gather materials for local schools that are collected through the Keys Hotel, where race registration takes place. Overall, the Kilimanjaro Marathon experience has something for everyone, from the serious athletes to those who are just in it to have some fun and use it as an excuse to visit East Africa. Now more than a decade mature, it's a well organised and festive event to participate in and an invigorating way to experience something of the grandeur of our continent. •

èRelated articles:

• Great Ethiopian Run (Issue 19, p. 72) • Swiss Alpine Ultra Marathon (Issue 9, p. 72)

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The Kilimanjaro Marathon is a qualifying event for The Two Oceans and Comrades Marathons and takes place in Moshi, Tanzania, every year around the end of February. Next year's race date is 2 March 2014. More info on the marathon and related travel can be found on the website: www.kilimanjaromarathon.com. This event was Sponsored by Kilimanjaro Premium Lager (title sponsored), with several Tanzanian companies contributing as co-sponsors, including Gapco (Disabled Race Category) and Vodacom (Fun Run).

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