Lowveld leisure

TRAVEL

Words & Photos: Duane Stacey

Lowveld leisure It has been some time since my last trip to the bush, long enough for the memories to have faded and the sentimentalities of those soul-stirring experiences to be banished by the brash busyness of everyday life in the city. But now, as my Airlink flight descends upon Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport (KMI), it does not take long for those recollections of familiarities to kick-start a deep-seated excitement within me.

This uniquely South African, bush-themed airport in Nelspruit, aptly suggests that the Big 5 roams freely here, immediately alerting my city-slicker senses. Disappointingly, it is only a lone rhino statue that welcomes us into the thatch-roofed structure. A rental car had been booked previously through Around About Cars, and within minutes we collect our luggage and continue the journey to Timbavati, a private game reserve bordering the Kruger National Park.

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A hyena pup is our first sighting of the morning.

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An African sunrise sets up another fantastic day in the bush.

Timeless Timbavati

We arrive in the dark to the flickering lights of Kambaku Safari Lodge and are afforded an impressive insight into how this eco-friendly lodge, with 80 solar panels discreetly placed throughout the camp, is able to operate entirely off the grid.

Dave, our host, graciously guides us to our rooms and presents us with a torch, the only object we need to access these private chalets. My perplexed stare at this key chain with no key prompts him to casually answer the question written on my face, “Oh, none of the rooms have a key. It’s

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for safety.” While I tried to make the link between ‘no key’ and ‘safety’, he continued casually, “In case wild animals enter the camp, we can hightail it into the nearest room, but the camp is fenced and suitable for small children, so you should be fine.” Well, if the lack of cell phone reception did not speak to the remoteness of our location, those words and the distant hum of an African drum calling us to the dinner table certainly did.

With the capacity for just 16 guests, intimate dinner settings are part and parcel of the experience and it is not long before we are introduced to a German family, an American couple, a British photographer, a New Zealand businessman, our local guide and tracker over a three-course feast prepared by the resident chefs. Dave’s passion for the bush emanates through the stories he shares so willingly and his incredible stills captured at the waterhole, a mere glance from our dinner table. The ambiance of this beautiful setting allows guests to relax in the company of people from different backgrounds,

build friendships over common interests and learn about countries not yet visited.

While the candlewicks burn deep into the night, an overwhelming sense of enrichment and gratitude fills me as I contemplate how fortunate I am to have met this diverse group of people sharing in our experiences over the next few days.

I am settling into my seat, something the game ranger says catches my attention, “Timbavati is a private game reserve and we will be going off-road for certain sightings.” This is not an ordinary trip to the bush – this is going to be something special. The first fuzzy murmurings over the two-way radio lead us to a clan of playful hyenas enjoying the first rays of morning sunlight. This area is famously known as ‘white lion country’ and many tourists arrive eager to catch a glimpse of this rare cat. For us, it is a different cat that grabs our attention.

A gentle 5 a.m. knock on the door was enough to jolt me awake from a restful sleep, as the familiar rush of eagerness kick-starts my day. We meet briefly over some coffee and rusks before boarding our game-viewing vehicle for the day. Our experienced rangers methodically explain the usual safety guidelines, which I pay as little attention to as a frequent flyer would to the seatbelt instructions from an air hostess. As

Unperturbed by our presence, a juvenile leopard elegantly saunters through the bush and past our vehicle. In complete awe, we follow this master of disguise for some time on his morning stroll along the riverbed until, in a manner as gracious as his arrival, he vanishes in plain sight. www.doitnow.co.za • 5

A juvenile leopard elegantly saunters into view.

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The fantastic team lead by David at Kambaku Safari Lodge.

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Not far from Kambaku Safari Lodge lies our next stop, Kambaku River Sands.

Whilst their names suggest similarities, the two lodges are uniquely different in character.

Most notably, Kambaku River Sands lies completely unfenced, and its boma and pool overlook a dry riverbed where guests can enjoy total relaxation. But

be warned, it is not uncommon for a herd of thirsty elephants to send guests running as they dip their trunks into this chlorinated water source. This exquisite lodge is framed with wildlife photography captured by the owner, Bryce Landsman.These artworks alone paint a story of Bryce’s love for the bush and his phenomenal experiences as a ranger. It is not until a three-hour guided bush walk with him that we really get to understand his passion and appreciate his years of experience, as he shares little insights from the small treasures of the bush to survival techniques as the thundering sound of elephants on their walk towards the waterhole bypass our frozen silhouettes.

One of the game-viewing privileges in the Timbavati relies on a common commitment by drivers to ensure a maximum of three viewing vehicles per sighting. We were thus accustomed to our trackers and rangers communicating over the two-way radios and arranging the viewing order, cleverly concealing the identity of any sightings by using an amalgamation of African names for the animals. However, this particular radio crackle was different. Not even the most experienced ranger could conceal his excitement over the radio. A tangible anticipation creeps from front to back as we make our way towards an airstrip in the bush where a cheetah has just pulled down a steenbok and is doing his best to protect his kill as the setting sun brings with it hyenas keen for their share of the spoils. Few are privileged enough to catch a glimpse of this incredible teary-eyed cat in the wild, let alone witness the scene playing out before us. Driving back to camp in the dark, a contented quietness hovers over all of us as we reflect on an incredible few days.

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An unbelievable sighting as we watch this cheetah devour a Steenbok.

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Sam wades through the river, whilst keeping the camera safe and dry.Â

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Seeking adventure in Sabie

For a change of atmosphere and pace, we head to Sabie for some adventure. Two-and-a-half hours whizz by while we wind our way through spectacular scenery and mountain passes that have become world renowned amongst the biking fraternity. We are met by Kestell Barnard from Kestell Adventures and are immediately bowled over by his enthusiasm and zest for life. One would think that these activities might become mundane for someone running them on a daily basis, but it’s hard to tell who is more excited as he explains our afternoon programme.

It’s not long before we are bouncing down the river gorge at Mac Mac Falls in search of the pounding spray we had spotted from a viewpoint above. It’s not every day you find yourself wading through rivers and scrambling behind a waterfall to appreciate the serene tranquillity of a place undiscovered by most that pass through the area. As visitors, we are particularly fortunate to be guided by the wealth of local knowledge Kestell has accumulated in his time here. He has the ability to custom fit a trip of adventures to suit any individual, group or time frame.

Still keen for more excitement, we launch into what I can only describe as one-man white-water raft without the chance to catch a breather. Before we can register what is happening, we are flailing through rapids and laughing uncontrollably at each other during the roller-coaster ride, which ends way downstream. “Geckoing,” as Kestell refers to this new found sport, was just the kind of adventure we had so eagerly sought and the perfect way to end a marvellous trip.

In a holiday so varied; from relaxation in the bush and a wildlife experience that will take your breath away, to heart-racing adventures on the doorstep of the Lowveld, this part of the country is well worth a visit.

I hope it’s not long before I can return to this place that has ingrained so many life-changing memories in such a short space of time.

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Crouched behind the shrubbery, we look out at these enormous beasts.

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How to get there Flights

Airlink - The regional feeder airline offers a wide network of regional and domestic flights within southern Africa and operates as a franchisee to SAA. Route specific information: Direct scheduled flights between Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town to Nelspruit.

Frequent Flyer Programme: Airlink is a member of South African Airways (SAA) Loyalty programme -Voyager.

Website: www.flyairlink.com Flight bookings: Online, booking agent or SAA Central Reservations +27 11 978 1111.

Getting around

Around About Cars offer car rental from KMI airport.

Phone: +27–021 422 4022 Email: info@aroundaboutcars.com Website: www.aroundaboutcars.com

Where to stay

Kambaku Lodges: Phone: +27-0150017009/ +27-0832617091 Email: reservations@kambakulodge.com Website: www.kambakulodge.com Skype: Kambakulodge1

Activities

The Kruger/Lowveld Adventure Centre: Phone: +27-0836405544 Email: bookings@kladventures.com Website: www.kladventures.com Kestell Adventures Phone: +27-0723515553 Email: info@kestelladventures.com Website: www.kestelladventures.com •

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