Mediterraneo:The Lifestyle by Mediterraneo Resort Wear LLC

The Fragrant History of Perfume The Timeless Accessory Mediterraneo: Resort February 2011 Issue # 3

Issue #3, February 2011

IN THIS ISSUE Fragrance, fashion, and our collection

Page 3

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Notes

Page 4

The Fragrant History of Perfume

Page 8

Mediterraneo: Resort

Page 10

The Timeless Accessory

EDITOR’S NOTES Let me tell you this...

Few

things are more interesting to me than perfume and its history.

In this

issue, I wanted to share with you some of what I’ve learned about the magical elixir and how it developed through the centuries.

When I lived in Paris, I found that most chic women (and that’s a good number of the women you see on Parisian streets) always seem to wear a scarf. The younger the woman the more inventive she is with this timeless accessory, but from grandmothers to teenagers, everyone wears a scarf. I hope you find some inventive ways of wearing them yourself…

Last, but not least, check out a selection of Mediterraneo styles for Resort. It’s

no secret that our economy has affected many, many American families in

lasting and harsh ways. As a tiny start-up company, Mediterraneo has not been immune to these pains. But we persevere and look forward with hope. We wish you the same hopeful attitude.

We’d love to hear from you and hope you enjoy the magazine. To see more of our fashions, please log on to our website at www.mediterraneoresortwear.com To give feedback, email us at info@mediterraneoresortwear.com

The Fragrant History of Perfume Since

the beginning of time, almost everything has been perfumed: women, men, animals, statues, temples, tombs, homes, churches, palaces, fountains, food…Perfume has been with us for more than 4 thousand years. The art of blending scents originated in the ancient Near East, traveled west to Greece and Rome, and was dependent upon the Arabian trade in aromatics that penetrated to East Asia.

The

word “perfume” comes from the Latin “per funum” meaning Olive oil through or by smoke. Primitive man discovered perfume through fire. When he burned wood he realized that the odorous vapors that were emitted perfumed the atmosphere. But a long time went by before man was able to master fragrance. The first vaporizations were used in sacred rituals: one offered fragrances to the gods in order to receive their good graces. In ancient civilizations, burning incense was above all a religious act and was therefore reserved to priests.

Per funum

THE SPIRITUAL EGYPTIANS

Egyptian

objects have been found that still contain traces of perfumes from the year 3500 BC. Ancient Egypt was in fact the Paris of its day; her fragrances were prized throughout the world.

Originally,

perfumes derived from resins that were reserved for the gods, since the perfumed smoke was symbolic of purification. Each day, the priests offered the gods various vaporizations: in the mornings they were made of resins, in

Perfume

cone

the afternoon, of myrrh, and in the evenings, of the most potent and sacred perfumes. The daily ritual also included the sacred oiling of the statues of the gods, a very important act, since these oils were considered to be emanations from the gods themselves.

Egyptian

priests, who prepared the perfumed oils and unguents that would serve the dead and the gods, can be considered the first perfumers. Perfumed incense and oils became Ancient Grecian olive tree 4

accessible to all Egyptians once the priests let go of their exclusive use. And, attracted by the idea of attaining riches, they began to manufacture these oils and unguents for non-religious use.

The Egyptians, who were ignorant of the idea of distillation, used grease and oil to absorb and to fix odors from plants (enfleurage). Perfumes were presented as oils and unguents (lotions) or in solid form. Kyphi, is an example; it is the sacred perfume of Egypt and was made (of myrrh, raisins, honey, wine, etc.) to be vaporized.

Aside

from being lovers of fragrance, the Egyptians were also sophisticated in treating their bodies. In order to prevent their skin from being dried by the sun, they used perfumed oils. And, to perfume their bodies, they used another creative method: the perfume cone. These cones, made of perfumed grease, were worn on top of the head like hats. In the heat of the day, the grease began to melt, and the person would be perfumed.

Cleopatra

herself used many perfumes to seduce her lovers. Legend has it that when she was sailing to meet Marc Antony, her arrival was known long before her ship was sighted because of the waves of fragrance preceding it. Her ship’s sails were perfumed…Incense was burned on the deck, and she herself was anointed with rose-scented oils.

Aside

Cleopatra

THE CLEAN GREEKS

The

usage of perfume by the Greeks dates to the 13th century BC. Mycean writings have been found that speak of aromatics and the extraction of perfumes. The poet Homer frequently cited perfumes in his writings, only he called them “oils.” Incense, on the other hand, was used in religious rites as well as for hygienic purposes. They were part of the medicinal arts.

Alexander the Great’s discovery of the spice route to the East – through Persia, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Peninsula – brought about the birth of an industry of perfumed products in Greece and the West. However, unlike other civilizations, the Greeks did not trade in perfumes, but rather kept them for their own use. Perfume was central to Greek life. It was at the center of hospitality, wealth, status, daily life and philosophy. Fragrance was worn by both men and women.

After

the conquest of Alexander, who so loved saffron that all his clothing was imbued with its fragrance, the Greeks became passionate users of perfume. Perfumes were offered to the gods, but also played a role in important stages of life: at birth, marriage and death. Perfumes were also used for medicinal and hygienic purposes. Since physical health was considered a virtue, gymnastics, baths and perfumed unguents were encouraged.

The

dead were buried with flasks of their favorite perfumes, and for those who could not afford such a luxury, a painting of a perfume flask was done on the coffin. Perfumes became such a rage that one emperor outlawed them. However, this very unpopular law was never respected.

Greeks were especially fond of perfumes based on flowers, but also used a series of ingredients, such as incense, myrrh, and other aromatic resins imported from Arabia. The Greeks are attributed with the manufacture of the first liquid perfume, even though it was very different from what we know as perfume today. It was composed of a mixture of odorous powders, oils and a resin to fix them, as well as a colorant – probably red.

Alexander the Great

Greek perfume bottles

THE DECADENT ROMANS

The oldest known use of perfume in Italy dates to the Etruscans (8th to 3rd century

BC), who softened their bodies with perfumed unguents and who wore hollow jewelry in which they kept fragrances.

was during the reigns of Julius Caesar, Nero and others that the fashion for perfumes imported from Asia and Greece came to Rome. This decadent society used perfumes to excess and extravagantly. Incense of frankincense and myrrh was burned at all important state occasions.

During

the funeral rites for Popea (the wife he had had killed), Nero burned more incense than Arabia could produce in a year, and during the festivities, guests were greeted by a shower of rose petals, the scent of which drove Romans wild.

During

banquets, guests were perfumed upon arrival and between courses; perfumed water was used to wash the hands; perfume burners sweetened the air; flowers and perfumed waters were everywhere in evidence; candles and linen were perfumed; fountains gurgled perfumed water; servants were perfumed with musk and marjoram; birds with perfumed feathers were released into the air; and even dogs and horses were massaged with perfumed oils.

Since

the cult of hygiene and the body were in vogue, public baths were very important. Visitors to the baths were rubbed with scented oils after they had immersed themselves in three bathing pools; the first tepid, the next hot, and the last cold.

Rome was filled with perfumeries, some even becoming meeting places for the young

and chic. Roman perfumers (unguentarii) produced incense, solid perfumes, liquid unguents, and perfumed powders. Continued on page 12

A Roman feast and a Roman bath 7

A Vee Neck in deepest blue silk

Belissa wearing our signature top, the Vee Neck

The”Indienne”

The “Equestrienne”

Belted Boat Neck models in orange and gold print, and in a blue floral

The “Parisienne”

The Timeless Accessory You know it when you see it: that indefinably chic, sophisticated and continental look European women have when they sport a scarf. Grace Kelly comes to mind. So does the most European of American icons— Jackie O. The carefully-chosen silk square, folded just so, twisted like this, knotted like that – results in a look that’s perfectly proper or casual, and always — fashionable. European women are seldom seen without a scarf about the neck, tied to a handbag, or covering their hair. It’s a fashion statement, and it’s pretty much understood that stylish women collect designer scarves and lend them or pass them on to their daughters. Men give expensive scarves as gifts to mothers, wives, girlfriends and assistants – they can’t go wrong. Replaced by the ubiquitous wool muffler in autumn and winter, the silk ―carré‖ or square, as the French call it, is an indispensable part of every woman’s wardrobe. As seen here, a scarf can be worn as a belt, as attractive head covering, or as neck décor. Don’t leave home without it.

Continued from page 7

of this lucrative trade, the Arabs kept the spice route a secret for as long as they By 450 BC, Arabia was the only producer could. of incense, myrrh, cinnamon and labdanum, and that country paid tribute Perfumes are so important to the Arabs to Darius, the emperor of Persia (today’s that Mohammed is said to have written Iran) with tons of incense. So we can see that what he loved most in the world was that these substances were indeed “women, children, and perfumes.” Like considered valuable and luxurious the Romans, the Arabs were most fond of rose scented oils. They used it on their commodities. skin and hair and in their foods. At this During the 10th century, the art of time, the Arabs were also very fond of perfumery held no more secrets for the musk, which had to be imported from Arabs, who had already made the most China or India. important technical discoveries. They had reinvented the still (alambique) which After the fall of the Roman Empire in the 15th century BC, the Arab trade in produced perfume through distillation. incense and myrrh continued on a much Avicenna, the physician philosopher, smaller scale. At that time, Arab perfume made the first rose water using distillation makers and especially those from the city methods. This new method allowed the of Aden, began to become famous. costs of production to come down. The Perfumery now took on greater importance Arabs traded with India, Ceylon, China than it ever had before and thanks to the and Malaysia, where spices, balms and Crusades, Europeans brought back home aromatics were produced. Ships that Arabian perfumes. sailed from Persia took new materials back to Europe, including products of animal origin, up to now unknown by the Europeans. In order to keep the monopoly

THE ENTERPRISING ARABS

Avicenna, and an Arabian bath

INDIA AND CHINA

other scent.

a few words about traditionally In China, on the other hand, there was very little distinction made among drugs, Indian fragrances: spices, perfumes and incense – that is – Sandalwood is probably the most among substances which nourish the famous. Sandalwood oil is extracted from body and those which nourish the spirit. the wood of the tree by distillation and is Chinese women used scented oils and used in perfumes, soaps, and shampoos. carried sachets in the folds of their It takes 30 years for a sandalwood tree to garments. mature, and today, it is a crime to fell a As a matter of fact, a man or woman of sandalwood tree in India. the upper class lived in clouds of incense Patchouli is the other aromatic that has and mists of perfume. The body was long been used in Indian culture. It is a perfumed, the bath was scented, the tropical member of the mint family. While costume was hung with sachets. The often associated with the hippie home was sweet-smelling, and the fragrances of the sixties, patchouli is one workplace was fragrant. And the temple of the prime ingredients in many was redolent of incense. The Chinese perfumes today. Vetiver is another Indian loved the gardenia, but could capture its aromatic that is widely used. It is a delicate scent only in tea. member of the grass family whose qualities of cleanliness, crispness and dryness make it very desirable for men’s colognes and perfumes.

Now

Lastly, let me mention the king of flowers

– jasmine. It originated in the Kashmir valley of northern India, and is particularly prized in perfume-making because it blends easily with almost any

Jasmine

Chinese lady burning incense during her prayers 13

Sandalwood

THE MIDDLE AGES

During the Middle Ages the growth of Christianity contributed to the reduction in the

non-religious use of perfume; it was still reserved primarily for religious rites. Religion brought an austerity so strong that perfume was considered a frivolity. The Church was even against bathing – which contributed to the spread of filth for several centuries. What little bathing the Church did allow was to be accomplished while a person was partially dressed, and should be done for medicinal rather than pleasurable reasons. That is, there was no bathing for bathing’s sake.

was the Crusaders who re-introduced perfume to the West. From the East they brought essence of rose; from Arab-controlled Spain, they brought various Arabic fragrances. The Crusades, which from 1096 to 1291 had Moslems battling Christians, engendered the trade between East and West. Thanks to the Crusades, Venice was, until the 15th century, the largest distribution center for spices and perfumes.

Following

in the footprints of the Chinese and the Arabs, European alchemists discovered ethyl alcohol and distillation. It was believed that pleasant smells had disinfectant properties and protected against epidemics: The wealthy carried around "fragrance balls" filled with musk, amber or aromatic resins. These pomanders were often beautiful works of art made of silver or other precious metals. The pomanders held musk, amber and other fragrant resins. These fragrances were said to be quite healthy, since they were supposed to keep the Plague away, to facilitate digestion, preserve the feminine organs and help a man retain his sexual vigor.

1370, the first alcohol-based perfume, “L’Eau de Hongrie” based mostly on rosemary flowers, was made for the Queen of Hungary. It was more a “flower water” than a perfume, and was used as well for medicinal purpose, since it was drunk as well as worn.

the end of the 14th century, liquid perfumes were replacing solid ones. Scented waters and tinctures to be swallowed (called “toilet vinegars” in France) were sought after for medicinal purposes.

THE RENAISSANCE (Approximately 1450 TO 1600) The great geographical discoveries made by Spain and Portugal favored the trade in aromatics and the development of perfumery. Famous explorers such as Vasco da Gama, Christopher Columbus, and Magellan brought back new raw materials to Europe from the Americas and India: cocoa, vanilla, balsam, tobacco, pepper, clove and cardamom are but a few of the new ingredients Europeans could enjoy.

the 15th century, the ideas against bathing continued, as bathing was thought to cause certain maladies. To compensate for this lack of hygiene and above all, to mask the odors, people used perfumes to excess. It was during this time that the bourgeoisie discovered perfume and that new essences were introduced.

This

period saw the trade in perfume become important not only for perfumers, but also for jewelers and silversmiths, as well, who created magnificent bottles. One perfumed jewelry, fans, masks and everything that was made of leather (this last to cover the nauseating smell of tanning).

In 1533, Catherine de Medici arrived in France accompanied by her perfumer, Renato the Florentine. He opened a shop in Paris and quickly became well known for his essences and poisons. Anecdotes have it that in order to get rid of disgraced individuals, Catherine would offer them perfumed gloves that contained poison. Catherine had chosen Grasse (in the south of France) to produce the harvest for the fragrant herbs and flower waters she loved. By the next century, the French interest in perfumery had outstripped that of the rest of the world. And today, Grasse is still the center of world perfume-making. Fragrance ball, or pomander

IN THE 17TH CENTURY…

France, the 17th century is considered the century of luxury and grandeur. Everyone loved perfume. The fashion was for strong (such as musk) and heady fragrances (such as jasmine and tuberose). It was the fashion to wear customized perfumes, made especially by a perfumer. People were crazy for jasmine, rose and orange blossom powders. In order to distinguish themselves from the other classes, the nobility colored their hair and their wigs with perfumed powders.

Gloves,

for example, were perfumed, and the association of leather with fragrance became so ingrained that in 1656, the Corporation of Glovemakers and Perfumers (a trade union) was formed in France. Under Louis XIV (who reigned between16431715), known as “The Sun King,” but also as the “sweetest smelling king of all,” this guild was granted the monopoly of perfume distribution, which had previously belonged to druggists. Leaving their native Spain and Italy many foreign perfumers established shops in Paris.

The palace at Versailles, begun by Louis XIII and finished by his son Louis XIV, was

and is, a shining example of royal splendor. However, without indoor toilets, men and women used its many hallways and stairways as toilets. Foreign visitors (especially the English) complained of its horrible stench. The obsessive use of fragrance at court, however, must have made life possible in this drafty, smelly palace for the many courtiers who lived there. Nevertheless, cleanliness and hygiene were still rudimentary nation-wide. No one bathed; to clean up, one used aromatic water or wine on the hands and face.

1693, the Italian Gian Paolo Feminis moved to Cologne, Germany, where he sold his “Eau Admirable,” a flower water. This was the birth of “eau de cologne.”

During this time in France, perfume vendors plied their trade by going street to street wearing the items they sold: The illustration shows us such a vendor: On top of his head he is carrying incense, in his hand are scented leathers for gloves, in his coat are soaps, colognes, toilet vinegars and perfumed powders. It was a very practical way to display what he had for sale and to go get the goods directly to his customers.

IN THE 18TH CENTURY

This

was the century of elegance and seduction. Love games were a major preoccupation, which explains somewhat the craze for perfumes. But contrary to the previous century, the fashion now was for softer fragrances, more fruity, and with floral notes.

While

flower waters were the height of fashion, toilet vinegars began to compete with them. These were perfumed vinegars which were drunk and worn. They were said to have disinfectant powers and to ward off the Plague. This was probably true because insects (which were often infected with all sorts of epidemics) were kept at bay by anyone wearing vinegar.

In the beginning of the century, perfume was still used for medicinal purposes, and to

mask the very bad odors inside and outside the home. At this time, there were still no sewers, so that streets were literally covered in filth. Then, toward mid-century, there was a turn toward cleanliness. The upper classes made progress in the practice of personal hygiene and became somewhat uninterested in the strong fragrances (musk, civet, ambergris) which had been used to mask bad smells. It became fashionable to be as natural as possible.

1760, the Church authorized the use of the bath as long as one didn’t take it for luxury, but rather as a necessity.

At the court of Louis XV (1710-1774), it was usual to change one’s perfume daily.

His apartments were perfumed daily with a different fragrance. That is why this court is referred to as the “Perfumed Court.”

was a time of carefree happiness and celebrations, with Marie-Antoinette its focal point. Magazines and newspapers published examples of feminine elegance, which were followed painstakingly. Hygiene became fashionable again. Tastes evolved to embrace more subtle fragrances, thus contributing to the wealth of the first famous Parisian fragrance houses.

Madame

de Pompadour (the King’s mistress) loved perfumes to excess. Legend has it that she hid perfume bottles on her person and that the King took great pleasure in finding them. The usage of perfume spread throughout feminine circles and their use was somewhat democratized.

France

in the mid to late 18th century was a time for fashionable men and women to use scent from head to toe. The aristocracy wore powdered wigs, whose powder was made from the root of the iris, and which had an odor of violets. Their gloves were perfumed with neroli, which is distilled from the bitter orange tree, and for those who bathed, there were perfumed soaps, scented vinegars and pomades. Those that were not too inclined to hygiene used the fragrances to hide a multitude of sins.