Issue 7 'Red Velvet' by Dominika Perek

ISSUE NO. 7 AUGUST â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15

Cannes Film Festival: Who Wore What?

Cara Delevingne WE LOVE YOU

Fashion guide Milano & Rome

FEATURED:

Karl Lagerfeld, Kate Moss, Fiorucci, Zuhair Murad

Menswear takes over london

My Journey with :

VISOANSKA & SIX SENSES SPA

I AM A WOMAN, HEAR ME ROAR

EDITOR’S LETTER All of the women in the world are strong. This is how Nature has created all Women to take care of their families, be successful in their work fields and at the same time, still remain feminine, intuitive, artistic and... very moody. As a woman, I perfectly know that we can have many faces, from angelic one to very devilish. Who is a woman that represents Red Velvet Issue? Feminine. Strong. Compassionate. Seductive. A feminist. Who’s a feminist? A person who believes in equality of both sexes. We were able to see many stars such as Beyonce, talking openly about being a feminist and keep promoting that movement in media. In fashion world, brands such as Chanel, proudly use feminism in their shows and campaigns as something worth to show to bigger audience. I’d like to thank Mess Feminist Team that contributed to ‘Red Velvet’ Issue: Darya Lebedeva for being faithul assistant and coordinating everything, Emma Ellen for the strong start in your new editor’s life and amazing ideas and even more amazing stories, Lilian von Keller for working hard on the layout and creative ideas, you make it effortless! Emmanuella Ngimbi for Feminist article and many, many more great pieces! Giulia Bardelli, for the lifestyle inspiration and great interview! Arabella Cristerna, for communication and coordination, keeping Mess mess-y Anastasia Golovicera for writing about the latest and hottest and never failing Ludovica Tronci for starting #MESSTravels section! Tomek Bakowski & Maciek Kawecki for creating ‘Creativity’ section that Jobs would be proud of! Lucy Creber for Top 10 Freshmess and all of your hard work with selecting the most talented people! Sarah Scott for your promising writing debut! Anne Peo for updating our website and filing the issue with latest style advices Joe Parker for making the Mess-y GIF history soon! John Pham for promising partnership and keeping industry full of freshness! Charlie Pratt for working at nights and producing tonnes of articles Katie Chubb for the spot-on articles Francesca Stainer for joining our team and rocking the runway reviews All of our partners and people that make it happen – THANK YOU, MESS MUST GO ON!

CONTACT EDITOR-IN-CHIEF&CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dominika Perek info@messmag.com SUBMISSIONS&ADVERTISING media@messmag.com 2

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ONLINE MESSMAG.COM FACEBOOK.COM/MESSMAG INSTAGRAM.COM/MESSMAGAZINE TWITTER.COM/MESSMAG MESSMAG.TUMBLR.COM

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HOUSE OF CCUOCO

CHANEL REVIEW 76

cover sho ot

MODELS AND ACTRESSES 1 1 4 blurred lines

FIORUCCI 80 4

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CONTENTS S

RED VELVET COVER SHOOT HOUSE OF CCUOCO MALEEFICIENT BEAUTY: ELENA VAREL

MES

6 18 30 44

ARTICLES

Gucci Menswear Spring 2016 56 Ornella Iannuzzi Interview 57 Dear Cara Delevingne 58 The Sunglasses Celebrities Love 59 I am a Woman, Hear me Roar 62 I Date You To... 64 All that Glitters is not Gold: Valentino 66 Cannes Film Festival 2015 68 Iconic Feminist 71 Celebrities are Destroying Fashion 74 Chanel Review 76 SMD Architecture Feature 78 Thank You Mr. Fiorucci 80 Kate Moss 82 Menswear is taking over in London 84 Milano Fashion Guide 87 Top 10 Freshmess Bloggers 90 Revolution of the Renaissance 95 Bloggers x Fashion Brands 98 How Sport has Influenced Fashion 100 My Journey with Visoanska Brand and Six Senses Spa in Westin Hotel Paris 102 Visoanska Product Review 104 Top 10 Best Dressed Countries 106 You Are What You Wear 110 Zuhair Murad 113 Actresses and Models: Blurred Lines 114 A Fashion Guide to Rome 116 Interview with Elektrocouture 118 Hussain Chalayan 120

ALL THAT GLITTERS IS NOT GOLD

E FRESHM

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Visoanska Brand and Six Senses Spa

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Red Velvet PHOTOGRAPHY: Katarina Hildebrandt MODEL: Paula Schinschel (@Modelwerk) STYLING: Lara Packheiser HAIR & MAKE-UP: Karina Asmus (using Chanel Make-up and Bumble & Bumble Hair Products, Extentions from Verlocke) HAIR & MAKE-UP ASSISTANT: Ariane Schuster RETOUCH: Vagrace.com

Dress: N端ska Couture Earrings: Saint Laurent Paris Collar: Danguale 6

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Dress: Danguale Earrings: Konplott messmag.com

Embroidered Body: GLAW Ring: Konplott Headpiece: Stylists own 8

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Embroidered Body: GLAW Ring: Konplott Headpiece: Stylists own

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Pullover: Glaw Skirt: Glaw Leather bangles/bangles: ElfCraft Chains: ElfCraft Rings:ElfCraft 10

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Pullover: Glaw Skirt: Glaw Leather bangles/bangles: ElfCraft Chains: ElfCraft Rings:ElfCraft

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Jacket: Dawid Tomaszewski Bangle: Konplott Earrings: Konplott Dress: Glaw

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Jacket: Dawid Tomaszewski Bangle: Konplott Earrings: Konplott Dress: Glaw

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Dress: Nando Feather Jewelry: Konplott

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Dress: Michalsky Necklace: Konplott Bangle: Konplott 16

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House of Ccuoco Photography: JAMES YLAGAN Makeup: MILA COOK Hair: MISSY G

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MALEFICIENT PHOTOGRAPHY: MARANGO MODEL: KATERINA, ANASTASIA STYLIST: PETRA

CONCEPT, HAIRSTYLE, ACCESSOIRIES ARE CREATED BY MARANGO 30

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MODEL: KATERINA, ANASTASIA PHOTOGRAPHY: MARANGO STYLIST: PETRA

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MODEL: KATERINA, ANASTASIA PHOTOGRAPHY: MARANGO STYLIST: PETRA

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MODEL: KATERINA, ANASTASIA PHOTOGRAPHY: MARANGO STYLIST: PETRA

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MODEL: KATERINA, ANASTASIA PHOTOGRAPHY: MARANGO STYLIST: PETRA

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MODEL: KATERINA PHOTOGRAPHY: MARANGO STYLIST: PETRA

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MODEL: ANASTASIA PHOTOGRAPHY: MARANGO STYLIST: PETRA

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MODEL: KATERINA PHOTOGRAPHY: MARANGO STYLIST: PETRA

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MODEL: KATERINA PHOTOGRAPHY: MARANGO STYLIST: PETRA

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P HOTOGRAPHY : A LBINA O NAJ M AKE U P : E LENA V AREL

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G U C C I

M E N S W E A R SPRING 2016

"The young generation (are) the real saints of the new world." The power of youth and the belief that the very young and very old just want to be free, is the new kind of culture we are seeing new creative director Alessandro Michele bring to life at Gucci. For the brand’s Spring 2016 Menswear collection, Michele has challenged the ideals of the style synonymous with the label’s Tom Ford period. A time where Ford gave a fairy godmother makeover to a disheveling brand, whose customers had lost faith. But that was then and this is now. For his most recent collection, Michele has toyed with the ideals of détournement. A term coined by the Situationist International (SI) movement of the 1960's, demonstrating the influence previous work can have on something new and original. What Michele has done is make us question the "renewal of possibility.” Could our expectations and our familiarity, be challenged and used to create something shocking and unique? Yes it can. Michele consciously challenged the history of the brand to pave way for its future and for its youth. A future that asserts the notion that eclectic and feminine styles are not just for the girls. Michele states, “dressing up

by emma ellen

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can give you the possibility to express anything that you want to be” and that gender ambiguity is fueled by the younger generations. We can see the lines of gender being blurred in the soft and feminine motifs- pastel colored shirts, jackets and trousers were all adorned with natural embroidered patches and prints in the forms of bees, butterflies and flowers. Ruffled sleeves, high necklines and pussy bow-collars all added that feminine touch. In terms of silhouette, it remained fitted. Coats were tapered in with belts, suits were tailored and garments made of sheer lace accentuated the shape of the wearer’s body. But it’s the image of female models walking the menswear runway, wearing the same styles as their male counterparts, that enforces the idea of androgyny. Seeing these men and women, looking no different in their suits and floral prints, challenging the idea of what is traditional and what is today. So what can we next expect of Michele, but more importantly of Gucci? Can we expect to see another transformation, or maybe even a new era for a brand so deeply rooted in fashion culture. Though what we do know is that we can expect to see someone determined to define the language of the brand, to expose its history but to also write its future.

ORNELLA IANNUZZI Interview by Guila Bardelli

Firstly, congratulations on winning UK jewellery designer of the year 2015, what went through your mind when you found out you won? Thank you! I was quite shocked when I was called out and I couldn’t believed it ! But then I had to go and pick up my award and I was overwhelmed with joy !

Cuff l’Exceptionnelle Emeraude

You grew up in the French Alps; how would you say your childhood has influenced your designs and aesthetics? I grew up in a small village in the French Alps surrounded by forests, lakes, and stunning landscapes that witness the geological processes which occurred with the formation of the mountains. So I have been totally immersed in Nature from when I was born. The little hood next to our house was my playground and I could spend hours hidden there, waiting for any wild animals to pop out, or just observing trees, plants and rocks. I loved to go minerals hunting too. I would cherish the crystals I found like a very precious treasure! By growing in such surroundings, I learnt to look at Nature differently, and it has had a significant impact on my work. I feel very closely linked to Nature and I believe people can see this through my jewellery.

A l'Ere Glaciere

When did you start designing jewellery and how did you start getting your jewellery out into the public? I started designing jewellery while still studying for my bachelor. I discovered the jewellery of René Lailque through a case study on Art Nouveau and I totally fall in love with his work. He is the reason why I am in jewellery today and it’s been almost 15 years now ! I started to show my jewellery through shows like the Goldsmiths’ Fair or the Opens Studios at Cockpit Arts where I use to be based.

Diamond Jubilee pendant RV

All your designs are so intricate, where do you continue to find inspiration? In Nature ! It is just mind blowing to see what nature can do when you look closely ! What rocks/materials do you like to work with the most and why? I love emerald crystals because the emerald green is my favourite colour, but I also love opals ! These gemstones are just magical and mesmerising !

Exceptionnelle Emeraude ring

How long does the designing and construction process usually take? It totally depends on the piece ! Usually my Fine Art Jewellery pieces are the most time consuming ones. I spent around 200 hours on the last one: the ring “The Uprising”. But in general I rarely spend less than 30 hours from design to completion. Which piece are you the most proud of and why? I love my ring” L’Exceptionnelle Emeraude” because of the emerald set in it and I think I have quite succesfully mounted it ! ;) But then my ring “The Uprising” is the one I am the most proud of as it won the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Company Gold Award this year and it was the first time ever that a ring won this prize !!

L’Exceptionnel Grenat du Piemont

What kind of woman do you see wearing your designs/design for? My clients are usually women who like to stand out in the crowd. They are not afraid of setting trends and leading the way forward with their outfits. They appreciate the quality of my work as well as the innovative approach and they just want something unique that will make them feel special ! Have you got any ideas for your new collection? Any hints for your fans? I am hoping to start soon some new “Fine Art Jewellery” pieces and there are 3 “emerald crystal” pieces on the agenda as well as some tanzanite crystal pieces.... ! Hopefully they will be ready for the Goldsmiths’ Fair week 2 this Autumn !! (at the Goldsmiths’ Hall.)

Sur la Cote d’Azur

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Dear Ca ra Delev ingne, I love you. We all love you. And not in the weird and creepy “I will find out where you live” kind of way, but in a way that we just want to be you. Maybe we could hang out? Or maybe we could drink copious amounts of wine and perfect our beat boxing skills? There’s just something about you, something so different to the rest. You are not what anyone expected and that is what’s so exciting in this industry. By now, we have come to appreciate the energy you bring. It’s in the way you talk, the way you walk and the way you just don’t care. You were fortunate enough to be born into privilege, something I feel that you have not only had to defend but have also had to reject. In a way I guess this is what inspired your rebellion against what the fashion industry defines as right. Whilst models walk in straight lines, you gallop, skip and jump to your own beat, and as they look like they’ve sucked on lemons you smile from ear to ear. We are living in a digital and free world, where individuals no longer rely on print media to promote themselves. Models and celebrities now have the power with access to social media, which allows them to reach bigger and more diverse audiences. You have taken advantage of our curious minds and have allowed for us to catch a glimpse of your exciting and fast world. There are 7 million of us following you on Twitter, 6 million on Instagram and 1.2 million likes on Facebook. Is this not evidence of how captivated we are by you, but more importantly how inspired we are. But whilst your attitude wins you in every personality test, your sense of style comes in at a close second. It must help that you’ve opened and closed runways for the world’s top designers, in particular for Chanel. Who could forget “Reincarnation” by Karl Lagerfeld? You stole the moment away from Pharrell Williams, with your cheek and stunningly beautiful transformation as the Austrian Princess. I appreciate the fact that you like to shake your style up – it’s where vintage meets designer. Laid back and casual is how I would define it. Again, we’re seeing the rebellious attitude of ‘I don’t care’ shine through, especially when your Chanel comes in the form of a hooded pullover. But no matter the occasion, you know how to make it work leaving everyone in your fashionable wake. Whilst they’re saying you’re the next Kate Moss, I would like to think not. Kate was a league of her and I think you are too. Kate was once the face of difference, whereas you inspire it; so here’s to hoping you can still do so much more. Keeping it real, Just one of your 6 million followers. 58

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by emma ellen

FROM CARA DELEVIGNE TO BEYONCE The right pair of sunglasses can make the whole outfit. Whether you want to look like a rock chic or a classic glam queen you should always be on the hunt for perfect statement-making shades. But who needs a pair more than paparazzi-hunted celebrities, when a crucial accessory is not only trusted with face shielding, but also helps to stay in trend. With so many sunglasses brands out there, how to choose the right pair? MESS magazine is presenting an ultimate guide on how to become an “It Girl”, just stick to any of these brands while shopping for a new pair of shades, and you’ll see the reason why celebs stay fiercely loyal to them. Anastasia Golovicera

ETNIA BARCELONA This amazing high quality, extremely comfortable as well as stylish newcomer brand has been spotted worn by few of our favourite celebs. Inspired by Mediterranean culture, this independent sunnies brand has created a wide range of colours and designs for a relatively affordable price. As said on their website “ Because everyone has the right to wear some good glasses!”.

THE SUNGLASSES BRANDS CELEBRITIES LOVE messmag.com

MIU MIU Miuccia Prada herself said “I always wanted to be different”. Miu Miu eyewear is highly distinctive with its quirky designs and strong playful nonchalance. With one of the definitely iconic pair of Miu Miu shades, which has proven to be more than just a glamorous trend, be prepared to be mistaken for an It girl.

ILLESTEVA We’ve all seen the famous round plastic frames copied by all sorts of brands. That was and still stays Illesteva’s signature sunglasses style. New York-based brand is a definite favourite among the international fashion set. It has put a contemporary spin on classic style, no wonder it has become Beyonce’s Coachella brand of choice.

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LE SPECS Would you believe it if someone offered you cool, trendy celeb-favourite sunglasses for less than ÂŁ100 ? We know just the right brand that makes it possible. Le specs presents old-Hollywood classic styles with a little modern twist that has nerve been more affordable.

CELINE There is no need to say anything about Celine. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get more glam and sophisticated than that. Absolutely worth the investment. Even the trendier seasonal styles remain classic.

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I AM A WOMAN, HEAR ME ROAR ‘I'M NOT GOING TO LIMIT MYSELF JUST BECAUSE PEOPLE WON'T ACCEPT THE FACT THAT I CAN DO SOMETHING ELSE.’ DOLLY PARTON

What does it mean to be a woman? Right now, yesterday or 100 years ago. Is it strength? Compassion? Or is it a certain kind of hunger that you see in a fighter? Now think about the kind of woman you were raised to idolise, the women who you believed were beautiful. Are these two images the same? Or are you imagining women burning bras, then girls only wearing them and grinding up against some mans thigh, adding new meaning to the term “hot”. For years, modern society has swept the notion of feminism under the rug, allowing it to become a dirty word, hushed by most and feared by the rest. Feminism was just something that was ignored, especially with adolescent girls; the notion of women fighting for individual rights was never a golden ticket to popularity. But something’s changed. Normal and original are back on trend. Forget Ke$ha rolling around in a pool of glitter, think of… well any tenacious and independent woman who believes (not that Ke$ha isn’t, but the $ might just undermine that). Knowledge has once again become power, equality has become the aim and fierce is how we’ll do it. But who inspires us each day to contest the hand that has

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been dealt to us and to accept no less than any other being? Our past is full of individuals, who have challenged every expectation of society in order for us to be as free as we are. These are women who have sacrificed so much, so that we all may have the right to think but more importantly to speak. They were the authors, the poets, the artists, the thinkers and the politicians. But then there were the teachers, mothers, daughters and sisters. Everyday individuals united in their quest, you could say, for unapologetically wanting equality. But let us acknowledge that the women who inspire us are not perfect (for no one really is). We need to remember that each and every single woman and person has their flaws. Therefore, as we remember all of these women, we must note that it is what did and not what they failed to do. Now imagine this: You want to express yourself, your thoughts and your beliefs. You want to share all of this, because you want others to relate. You find freedom in the use of words, creating other worlds that either expose harsh realities or inspire hope. But to do this you must obtain another identity that comes with a new name, particularly a males, for you are a women and this is not what you were made to do, or so your told. At 20 years of age, Charlotte Bronte was told this- ‘Literature cannot be the business of a woman's life.’ Whilst she took a male pseudonym, Bronte created influence and a voice

for women. She chose to leave her facial hair as it was, not taming it as people expected. Then there was the occasion that she cut her short and dressed like a man, as depicted in the 1940 painting ‘Self-Portrait with Cropped Hair.’ This particular painting represents the time after Kahlo had separated from her husband, declaring her own self-reliance and independence.

through her heroic female characters. Strong women, who didn’t let the world beat them down no matter how bad things got. Jane Eyre, although fictional, is an inspiring character, as she says ‘I am no bird; and no net ensnares me: I am a free human being with an independent will.” Bronte explores and exposes the flaws of the male dominated society that she lives in. Her character challenges the ideals of this society and portrays a young and strong woman, attempting to assert her own identity. Whilst it is constantly debated whether Jane Eyre is a feminist icon, there is no doubt that her strong will and voice are an inspiration for the time.

Whilst there were women who exposed their reality, there were those whose only form of expression was exposing it. Frida Kahlo is a true example of this. Kahlo had many tragedies occur in her lifetime- some were physical, other psychological. Yet it is her strength and endurance that inspires. As she puts it herself ‘at the end of the day, we can endure much more than we think we can.’ But Kahlo’s greatest strength was her journey of self-discovery. Firstly, Kahlo identified herself as an individual and not as a particular gender. She saw the potential to embody both sexes throughout her life, which ultimately assisted in breaking down the wall of gender difference built by society. An example of this is Kahlo’s rejection of society’s expectation of femininity and beauty

One of Kahlo’s greatest pains as she believes, was he husband Diego Rivera. Her pain but also her transition of identity is depicted in the 1939 painting, ‘The Two Fridas’. On the right, we have the image of Frida that Diego loved. The woman is dressed in a traditional Tehuana dress whereas the woman to the left, dressed in modern European fashions and with a broken heart, is the Frida that Diego rejected. What we see here is a woman who has embraced changed, but has been rejected for these modern ideals. Lastly, there are the women who fight for reality. Women like Rosa Parks who have stood up to injustice to create an equal and fair system for all. Notably on December 1st, 1955 Parks a 42-year-old African American, boarded a bus to go home from work. She sat in the middle of the bus, in an area she was delegated, but what engrained this day in history was her refusal to accept anything less than she deserved, refusing to move seats for a white man. A spontaneous act that challenged the legality of segregation inspired people to not believe in the eradication of race and colour but to believe in equality. She inspired the hope in people to keep fighting for the rights you were born to.

So to all the women, whose integrity and strength continues to inspire, thank you. Thank you for demonstrating the meaning of self worth, independence and the importance of identity. But this is now and it is our turn to inspire. It is our shot to make something of this life, make some noise and create change. Emma Ellen

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i dare you to... Daring: defined as having the courage to do something. To be ‘venturesomely bold in action or thought.’ When I think of what it means to be daring, I think of risks and I think of chances. Whether they turn out so right or very wrong, it shouldn’t matter. Pushing boundaries is what should matter. The issue is though; those who do dare to be different are often scrutinized and put on this pedestal where they are stripped naked for all to bare witness. What ever happened to the respect given to those who dared to try? I think of all this because when I look back at this years Met Gala, an event where the elite unite in raising awareness for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, I can’t help but feel a little disappointed with the lack of eccentric exceptionality. Now just bear with me for a moment, at least give me an opportunity to explain. Don’t get me wrong, everyone looked absolutely stunning on that red carpet. The theme this year was ‘China: Through The Looking Glass’, a theme that not only explores the impact, but the contribution of Chinese aesthetics in Western culture and in particular within the fashion industry. For this, I expected something beyond elegance. I expected difference. I expected fire. The 140-plus-piece exhibition, entwines the style of haute couture and readyto-wear with film, music and Chinese arts and textiles. Curator, Andrew Bolton describes the exhibit as being a “truly ambitious undertaking” that focuses on the dialogue between Eastern culture and Western style. With a title that has derived from Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland and Through the Looking-Glass, the exhibit does not shy away but dares to acknowledge that the Western perception is like that of looking through a mirror- a warped reality. This is why, rather than boasting pieces hand crafted by Chinese couturists, the show displays exquisite pieces by Western designers who have connected over time with the Asian aesthetic. We get to bear witness to such pieces like the evening dress from Valentino’s 2013 Shanghai collection, one that celebrates the integral influence of red, the colour of prosperity, in both Chinese and Valentino culture. There is the evening dress from Robert Cavalli’s Autumn/Winter 2005-2006 collection, where it’s ethereal print is reminiscent of traditional Chinese blue and white porcelain sculptures. There are plenty more designs from the likes of Tom Ford during his time and Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano and Jean Paul Gautier, all who have explored the meaning of colour, prints and tradition combined with their own eccentric styles. I didn’t expect to see dragons raging in a fiery escapade down the red carpet and I didn’t expect see thousands of geisha’s tip toeing their way down either. What I did expect was a great influx of Chinese couturists, amazing traditional prints and a sea of red, yellow, gold and blue. Yet out of all that, all I saw was red. Yes, these women looked sexy and fabulous – here’s to you Gigi Hadid in Diane von Furstenberg - but I felt that the shade of red was not enough to celebrate a culture that has given us so much. It was a repeat of 2012’s Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations and 2013’s Punk: Chaos to

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Rihanna Met Gala 2015

Couture, concepts that had the possibility of inspiring not just beautiful designs, but thrilling and powerful works of art.

Sarah Jessica Parker Met Gala 2015

Daphne Guiness Met Gala 2012

There are some individuals and some designers, who are on point each year. They see the theme at so many different angles and they just know what works. They see potential for difference and they just run at it, full steam ahead. In the past, Christina Ricci is one I feel has executed the subtle statement gown. She made us all want some girl power in 2008 where it was all about Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy. The underlying style of the Givenchy gown was reminiscent to that of a Wonder Woman style bodysuit, embodying the power of a warrior. In what could be an ode to Wonder Woman’s secret identity, sheer fabric gently conceals the form to transfer Ricci into a dazzling vision. Then there was Daphne Guinness in 2011 who wore a Sarah Burton creation that befitted the McQueen tribute. The dress defined originality. The creation was a part of Burton’s second solo collection for the brand and not just anyone could pull it off. The silhouette accentuated the hips and shoulders, a caricature of Dior’s 1947 New Look, was inspired by that of ‘someone strong…noble and romantically powerful’. It proves it’s more than just about dress it’s an attitude.

Christina Ricci Met Gala 2008

Even if no one understands the design, as long as the wearer brings the right attitude then they have my full attention. So when Sarah Jessica Parker, the risk taker of all risk takers, steps out in a H&M gown that only makes way for a red and silver Philip Treacy… crown, because something that grand can not simply be a hat. I admire Parker’s choice for taking yet another risk as the crown of flames not only signified strength and persistence in Chinese culture, but in her choices as well. And then Rihanna stepped onto that red carpet in a Guo Pei and I can’t help but want to run to her and not give her a high five, but a high ten. I want to celebrate her daring move to wear yellow, a colour that represents royalty and sacredness. I want to look at every inch of the embroidery that demonstrates the skill of a Chinese artist. I want to know everything about it and where it came from. But rather than hear all of this, I see a social media outcry of that one time Rihanna wore a pizza base. What does this teach us? That it’s not ok to go against what everyone else thinks is fashionable? Daring, individuality, difference – that is what’s fashionable; these are the trends I know I want to see. It’s a lesson for everyone to not be afraid, to be bold and dare to stand out. But above all not to shy away from difference, embrace it. What’s the worst that could happen? Well… By: Emma Ellen

Solange Knowles Met Gala 2015

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all that GLITTERS is not GOLD...

It’s red. It’s ferocIously red and VALENTINO. By: Emma Ellen

When I think of Valentino I think of heritage. I think of love. But above all, I think of beauty. The brand of Valentino has dominated for over 50 years, leading an industry of creators whose aim is to design the finest haute couture. I trust in Valentino, for they are consistent- consistent for producing and executing collections that are always on point. Valentino doesn’t comprise. The brand adapts to its time but in maintains its roots. Valentino makes me believe- believe in feminine beauty and believe in this lust to be desired. It’s true, the man behind the brand is reading our minds- ‘I know what women want. They want to be beautiful.’ Whether or not it’s a kind of beauty that others will recognise, the point is that if you feel beautiful you will look more radiant and desirable than ever before. Beautiful your dress may be, but nothing and I mean nothing, can surpass a beautiful smile. In the 1960’s, Valentino did what Yves Saint Laurent did with Le Smoking suit- he made women sexy without over sexualising them. After years of schooling and training in Paris, where he adopted a set of skills and knowledge that no other place or other person could provide, he retuned to Rome. It was here he met Giancarlo Giammetti, igniting the influence of love and business. Together this power couple ruled the Italian fashion scene. The brand’s debut took place in Florence at the Pitti Palace. Valentino garnered international attention. Red was no longer red, it was ‘Valentino Red’ and exclusivity became the designers’ middle name. But in 1968, Valentino took a chance. He moved beyond the colour, beyond his red and opted for beige, white and ivory hues. Valentino created a collection that was relevant, and I do believe that if the brand were to reveal it today it would still work with the present time and trends. I guess that is what makes this brand work, and work better than the rest I might add. It is timeless. It is the attention to detail and focus on every moment of a garments creation that makes it a timeless masterpiece. For every aspect from the first vision to the final stitch, is carefully curated and followed through.

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You don’t just put a Valentino together. I guess this is what makes a Valentino piece so magnetic and refined. The only aspiration for Valentino was to create garments that made the women wearing them feel just as beautiful, elegant and important. This is why he attracted the likes of inspirational women such as Elizabeth Taylor and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Time saw the brand of Valentino grow. The US and Italian fashion industries were always overshadowed by the Parisian’s whose evolution of the industry always dominated. Yet the designers were not slow to recognise the commercial potential of producing diffusion lines that were accessible for everyone. Valentino was a brand to acknowledge this and soon enough was home to the following labels: Valentino, Valentino Garavani, Valentino Roma and R.E.D. Valentino. I once read that the aesthetic of Valentino could be compared to poetry. It exhales love, seduction, temptation and passion. Again, it all comes down to the details- the luxurious choices of fabric, from silks and velvets to the choice of silhouette confident body con styles to flowing romantic gowns. We as an audience are fortunate enough to have someone like Valentino, who still believes in the lust of dreaming and romance- that a single dress can be the sole defining moment of any scene. When we look back we can see these dresses sprawled across time. There was the red silk crêpe dress from the Autumn/Winter 1965 collection- a dress that engraved Valentino’s style in fashion history. It was modelled by Princess Luciana Pignatelli and photographed in Vogue. The dress was designed for grand effect- to be worn underneath an elaborate coat, where a simple shrug would reveal the classic style. We also have the black velvet, chiffon and white evening gown worn by Julia Roberts to the 1992 Oscars ceremony. The dress was designed so that the front and back had different looks- from the front the wearer looked sleek and classic, yet from behind the train spread out like a peacock’s feathers, giving dramatic effect. Then there is the evening gown from the brands Spring/Summer 2003 Haute couture show; a dress I feel was made for modern royalty. The strapless evening gown with low-set draped chiffon sleeves is donned with a train of applique pleated crimson rosettes that are topped off with crystal centres. The dress screams beauty and femininity. But what sets it a part from being a dress for a princess to a dress for an icon, is the colour. The different tones of the dress show that the dress is not perfect (yet it is) and that not everything or everyone is flawless. It shows progression and it shows difference. The point is, it creates the modern woman. So I’d like to finish with a toast, with the most exquisite champagne to ever grace this world. To Signor Valentino Garavani, the one whom many call the ‘Emperor of Fashion’. Here is to the legacy you have created- one that will never age. Here is to women who you have dressed so eloquently. You have helped define these women as idols of grace and feminine beauty and yet you have inspired confidence and seduction so tastefully. I know that your brand and your style are in safe hands. Hands that will continue to mould the wonderful vision that is yours. You once said that ‘I hope people will say, 'Mr. Valentino, he did something for fashion, no?'’ Well, have no fear and more importantly have no regrets, for you have achieved all of this and more.

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CANNES FILM FESTIVAL 2015 Barbara Palvin

Just when you thought it couldn't get anymore glamorous than Met Ball, Cannes Film Festival surprise us with even more fabulous appearances. The most prestigious, the most publicised invite-only events - oh isn't it a pretty good reason to dress up to perfection! Annually our favourite dazzling from head to toe celebs are treating us with gorgeous looks and this year is no exception. From Sienna Miller, our favourite it-Brit girl to Kendall Jenner and Karlie Kloss, true representatives of the "Instagirl" era - we hope you are ready for another session of true glam overdose.

Kendall Jenner

Doutzen Kroes

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This year it's all about the models, high-fashion girls and Victoria Secret angels. We've seen Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, Barbara Palvin and Doutzen Kroes showing off their toned physique and beautiful attire at the red carpet. 29-year-old Israeli fashion model Bar Refaeli kept things a little more simple in her white floor length gown, looking as gorgeous as ever with her sun kissed, glowing skin. Kendall Jenner looked stunning in her gothglam Azzedine Ala茂a skirt and crop top as well as Joan Smalls who wore an outfit from the same collection. After all the red carpet appearances and media interviews it was time for our favourite celebs to head down to amfAR's 22nd Cinema Against AIDS black tie Gala. The most beautiful movie stars and models gathered at the H么tel du Cap-Eden-Roc in the French Riviera. It's a highlight of the Cannes Film Festival and this time, everyone's dressing up all for a good cause - it's a charity event of the year. Leading the way, of course, were "social media modeling" era girls Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid and Lara Stone all of whom we've seen on the red carpet. 22-year-old Victoria's Secret model Karlie Kloss showed off her gorgeous and unbelievably long legs in a loose-fitting silver Tom Ford dress. As well as the supermodels, the biggest names in cinema were seen wearing dresses nothing short of stunning. Cannes jury member British actress Sienna Miller also made an appearance in a gorgeous silver dress.

Karlie Kloss

Bar Rafaeli Gigi Hadid

Joan Smalls Jourdan Dunn

Sienna Miller

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Calvin Klein Women in Film party What happens in Cannes stays in Cannes, and you will never find out unless you are one of the A-listers or one of their fortunate guests at the invitation-only Calvin Klein Collection Women in Film party held at a private villa. There is no doubts only one word to describe the event: Classy. Calvin Klein Collection has a history of supporting arts and culture and has kept a particular focus on women in film. This year will be the fifth in a row for Women in film with euphoria Calvin Klein and IFP. As you would have probably guessed, the event was attended by Hollywoods most loved and wanted, models and paparazzi favourites that were finally able to take a break from their hectic schedules and enjoy a night out. British actresses Sienna Miller, Rachel Weisz and Emily Blunt were seen wearing simple yet chic column dresses. Hollywood's most elegant leading ladies weren't there just to mingle and chit chat, actresses were being honoured for their contribution to film. Jake Gyllenhaal, Lily Donaldson, Harvey Weinstein, Melanie Laurent, Joan Smalls, and Doutzen Kroes were also among the many celebrities who attended the exquisite event.

Emily Blunt

Rachel Weisz

Sienna Miller

It is surely one of the most anticipated events on the Cannes calendar â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and after a quick peek at the venue, we can see why.

Melanie Laurent

Now, maybe it's because of a strict classic glam Calvin Klein reputation, whatever the reason, we LOVE the result â&#x20AC;&#x201D; take a look:

Jake Gyllenhaall

And what are your favourite looks from Cannes this year?

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by Anastasia Golovicera

I C O N I C

Emmanuella Ngimbi

EYONCE

Since the beginning of her career Beyoncé has been a major advocate for feminism, as a member of Destiny’s Child, the girl group came to power and poise with singles such as Independent Women and Survivor telling women to stand up and dominate. In 2006 when the girl group broke up Beyoncé became extremely successful as a solo artist releasing hit after hit continuing to empower all women. Her single Irreplaceable taught women that they can kick out and unfaithful boyfriend and let him know that he’s replaceable, her other single Upgrade U is all about having the power to upgrade a man and introduce him to some new things, and finally one of her most recognised singles Run the world (Girls) is an anthem that empowers women who aren’t afraid of being powerful, driven, smart and sexy. It is without a doubt that Beyoncé is an inspiration for women of all ages, especially with an all-female band.

EMMA

Emma Watson first came to the scene as Hermione Granger from Harry Potter at the tender age of 11. Now at the age of 25 Emma is not only known as a successful actress but also a proud feminist. Earlier this year Emma attended a special event to launch the HeForShe campaign, a solidarity movement of gender equality which Emma also represents. During the event Emma Watson gave a speech that changed conversations about feminism after going viral on social media. A speech which highlighted the impact of gender equality, gender inequality in the film industry and inequality in the LGBT community. Emma also spoke about issues men face with gender inequality saying “I’m really disturbed by the idea that men can’t cry, it’s crazy, it’s what makes you human, how you feel, how you express yourself”.

W ATS O N

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ASHTON KUTCHER

The Orange is the New Black actress Laverne Cox has achieved immeasurable success outside of the Emmy award winning show. She recently became the first transgender woman to ever grace the cover of Time magazine and her role as Sophia Burset received the fourth spot on Time Magazine’s list of the Most Influential Fictional Characters. In a recent interview Laverne said that she absolutely considers herself a feminist saying “Before I transitioned, when I was in college I was very interested in women’s studies”. She also described Bell Hook as her feminist godmother for teaching her about feminism in politics and changing her views on race and gender through her book Black Love.

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Being a feminist is often seen as a “female thing”, however there a male celebrities who believe in the equality of all genders and are proud to call themselves feminists. Male celebrities such as Ashton Kutcher, during his interview about his movie No Strings Attached Ashton revealed how important is it is for films to show women who own their sexuality rather than show them as a passive sex object or commodity. He said “I think there is so much that’s no being said in our country, even from an education level, the one thing they teach about is how to get pregnant or how not to get pregnant, but they don’t really talk about sex as a point of pleasure for women. He then continued to say “Part of that creates a place where women aren’t empowered around their own sexuality and their own sexual selves, and form a purely entertainment point of view, to create a movie with a female lead that’s empowered with her own sexuality is a powerful thing. After Ashton Kutcher became new father of a baby girl he shared his frustration about gender inequality on Facebook saying “There are never diaper changing stations in men’s public restrooms #bethechange” after the status went viral, the actor then decided to make a more proactive move by teaming up with Charge.org to create a petition asking the American stores Target and Costco to provide changing stations in their stores.

L AV E R N E COX

MALALA

At the age of 14 Malala Yousafzai was targeted by the Taliban on her way home from school, hoping to silence her after they learned she was blogging for the BBC about living under the Taliban’s threats to deny her an education. In that same year Malala continued to speak out about her right, and the right of all women to an education. Her bravery and activism resulted in a nomination for the International Children’s Peace Prize and an award for the Pakistan’s National Youth Peace Prize. The attack from the Taliban left her in critical condition which lead to Malala having to be flown to the Birmingham, England to receive further care. After her recovery Malala blossomed into a young feminist campaigning for the importance of female education despite the great hurdle of gender-based violence.

GLORIA STEINEM

YOUSAFZAI

As a ground-breaking writer, lecturer, editor and activist Gloria Steinem is one of the most recognised faces of feminism, fighting for gender equality for over four decades. She first became known in the 70s as a journalist best known for her political writing. She also led the women’s liberation movement throughout the 60s and 70s. Gloria Steinman is the Co-Founder of several female groups that changed the face of feminism, groups such as Women’s Action Alliance, The National Women’s Political Caucus, Women’s Media Centre and so much more. During this year’s International Conference On Masculinities Gloria spoke to Huff Post and went on give some great advice to young feminists saying “To young feminists I would say, what do you care about? What do you love so much that you forget what time it is when you’re doing it? And just do it. We’re all here to support each other.” Gloria was then asked what advice she would give to young men who want to get involved in the feminist movement, she said “First of all, men should know that there’s always been a huge, vibrant men’s movement and I hope that because this conference is bringing the information together the male feminists will now be more recognized”. All her efforts and courage led to the induction into the National Women’s Hall of Fame in 1993 and in 2013 she was honoured with the Presidential Medal of Freedom.

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CELEBRITIES ARE DESTROYING FASHION ! When a celebrity collaborates with the fashion and beauty world it is often celebrated, hugely successful and a makes mountains of cash. There are countless big household names that have decided to make their mark on catwalks, in shops, and in our make up bags; Cara Delevingne with DKNY, Rita Ora for Adidas and even most of the Made In Chelsea cast, with Binky Felstead sporting her own cosmetics ** as just one example. But the real question is not why, but why should they? Usually the majority of artists and celebrities simply buy into the fashion world by wearing designer labels and creating a wardrobe of fashionable pieces that are more often than not worthy of a spot in the V&A Museum. These celebrities become known for their fashion sense without stealing any of the designer’s credit; they are simply mannequins. Alternatively, many artists use fashion as an extension of their music or to make a statement. Lady Gaga would be a prime example of this. Notably, her meat dress had the world eating out of her hands for an explanation. The dress was cooked up out of a raw belief that you should fight for what you believe in, and in this case it was her distaste for the US military’s don’t ask don’t tell policy, banning open homosexuality in the US military before its abolition in 2011. During an interview about the meaty VMA stunt, Gaga has been quoted to say that after wearing the meat dress, “I feel like I have a voice now as an artist and as a designer”. But, should all artists have a voice as a designer without the skills and qualifications? More often than not, the hard work and practical skills of a designer would be simply overlooked by the celebrity who simply has the final say of ‘Yes, I like that’ when overseeing a collection, and even before the finishing touches have been made their name will be plastered all over the designs. This week it has been announced that Rihanna and Sam Smith have married into the fashion world with their own collaborations. Sam Smith, who has admitted to always loving fashion and was seen attending the Burberry Fashion Show back in February, will be the face of Balenciaga FW15 Campaign Video, raising the collections’ profile by symbolically imprinting his name on the designs. With a more hands-on approach, Rihanna has been named the ‘Creative Director’ of Stance Socks and will design a collection of limited edition over-the-knee socks on a multi-year contract, accompanied by as well limited edition collection of crew socks aptly named ‘Murder Rhi Wrote’, of which the full collection will be available in September. Although Rihanna is known for her bold and creative fashion choices on and off stage, does she have any credibility to call herself a ‘designer’ – or her official title Creative Director? It is like a school girl being let loose in the Vogue fashion cupboard, as much as she wants to try on the shoes, hats, and dresses,

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her childish features would be swamped by ill fitting designers. I’m afraid the same analogy is clear with Rihanna, where her lack of knowledge and experience of the industry overshadows her enthusiasm and love of fashion, leaving her as the child drowning in **Chanel. You could have the most earth-shattering love of fashion, read every magazine like the Bible and stalk fashion shows around the world, but enthusiasm does not qualify you as a designer. Just as a personal wardrobe of Chanel, Dolce and Gabbana and Mui Mui does not qualify you to create their future collections. Similar to other industries, the struggles of up and coming designers are all too well known, and I can only imagine how difficult it must be to witness big celebrities plastering their names across labels and being proclaimed

ocks

tance S

axS Rihann

as a ‘designer’. In order to become a fashion designer you will usually need a higher education qualification, such as a foundation degree or degree from a College or University listed on the acclaimed British Fashion Council. Even after you have been grueling away in a studio to gain a **presidios qualification it can be almost impossible to be able to have your big break onto the catwalks or high streets. An article in a few years ago by Buster Brown for the Huffington Post last year spoke about the struggles of designers at New York Fashion week who “scramble to afford presentations that cost thousands of dollars and come with no guarantee of success... This issue is not limited New York City -- rookie designers experience these exigencies at similar events in London, Milan and Paris”. It seems nothing has changed.

Victoria Beckham

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Like many things in this world, there is of course an exception to the rule – Victoria Beckham. Although many forget that she started on stage, she sewed herself into the fashion world seamlessly, launching an eponymous label in 2008, a lower priced label in 2011 and winning Designer Brand of the Year the same year. She has more than proven herself as a designer and a fashion icon, but it has taken the past decade to accept her as a designer and businesswoman rather than a has-been singer and WAG. Although I have the upmost respect for Victoria, it is interesting to think whether she would have had the same success if she had not been Posh Spice, or the spouse of the biggest name in football. Of course, it is hard to know just how involved any celebrity is in the design of their garments. Perhaps they really were the blood, sweat, and tears behind a collection, however, the collaborative nature of their schemes inherits doubts. Nevertheless, the real up and coming designers with the real qualifications, and the real graft are left backstage as a ‘nobody’. They do not have wealth of people, power and pocket to launch themselves onto the runways. Perhaps it would be healthier if these fashionista’s collaborated with unknown and up and coming designers to aid the launch of their career, rather than increasing the profits and promotions of an already established fashion house. There should be a universal removal of the celebrity and designer collaborations unless there is clear and prolonged interest and experience, to make room for the pure talent of designers with true experience and passion. We need to amputate the infected limbs of the fashion world to allow for a functioning fashion body, without the corruption of celebrities entertaining a part time hobby. Francesca Stainer messmag.com

CHANEL REVIEW

Chanel AW â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15/16

by Emma Ellen

Karl Lagerfeld. How is it that you keep doing what you do? Not only are you setting new standards with the quality of your collections, but you are also changing the way we interact with it Traditionally, a fashion show is a tame event. A runway centres the room and chairs for adoring followers surround it. Then at some point that quietness is transformed- chairs are filled, music sets the mood and models do their thing. But Chanel is anything but tame. Chanel is pure elegance, a point of difference but more importantly Chanel is change. This season the brand and the mind of Karl Lagerfeld really explored this, particularly the changes and influence of current technology to old techniques. In reference to the show, Lagerfeld stated â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;fashion has to follow everything that is going on in the world. I liked the idea of the most iconic jacket of the 20th century redone in a technique that was not even possible to imagine could exist.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; A Chanel show is unlike any other. Whilst others are comprised of the single moment that makes sense of it all, the one that makes you catch your breath, holding it in so deep for the fear of letting it go means losing that moment, a Chanel show is rather a series of them. Walking into the main hall of the Grand Palais you were greeted with an Art Deco-inspired casino, complete with slot machines and roulette and blackjack tables manned by croupiers. Then came the show. The genius that is Karl Lagerfeld means that there is always immense focus on the woman he wishes the brand to encapsulate. Lagerfeld himself is drawn to the characteristics of these female icons- their independence, their attitude and their strength. Which is why these women not only opened but also played the centrepiece to this show. Out came

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Kristen Stewart – fierce, followed by Geraldine Chaplin – grace, Lily Collins – purity, Lily-Rose Depp – youth, Julianne Moore – grounded, Rita Ora – uninhibited, Jemima Kirke – free and many more women who possessed the prowess of Chanel. So as they all sat around tables, taking part it games of chance, the real moment then started. First came the classic Chanel suit jacket and skirt combination, but with a twist. Using the latest technology, Selective Laser Sintering, Poppy Delevingne Chanel AW ‘15/16 quilt like effects were created on the fabric’s surface. The collection then smoothly transitioned into sweeping hemlines, soft silhouettes and elegant fabrics like satin and chiffon. But the collection never lost its textural touch with each garment embodying the craftsmanship of the Chanel team. As an audience it’s easy to be caught up in the moment that is a fashion show, but if you pay attention to the finer details, to the beaded hemlines to the string of pearls that edge the garment, then your understanding of the presence of haute couture in this industry will strengthen.

Rita Ora at Chanel AW ‘15/16

ern vision, they still represented the ideals of the Art-Deco era and the shows surroundings. The collection embraced the loose fitting and masculine inspired look of that time, again in keeping with the perception of a strong and independent Chanel woman. With the final look came the modern woman. Kendall Jenner dressed in a white satin wedding suit, epitomizing the unconventional bride of today. It’s without doubt that Chanel takes risks, gambling with their own chances and getting it right every single time. With a brand identity so engrained into fashion history, it’s Lagerfeld’s determination to be forward thinking that continues to keep them ahead of the game.

Whilst the look and feel of each piece was a mod-

Kendall Jenner Chanel AW ‘15/16

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SMD ARCHITECTURE GROUP

Live your DREAM

MESS KNOWS THAT FROM SIMPLICITY COMES CREATIVITY. IT CAN ALL START WITH THAT ONE UNIQUE IDEA, THE ENERGY OF LIKE-MINDED INDIVIDUALS, BARING WITNESS TO NATURE’S TRUE BEAUTY OR BY SIMPLY FEELING LOVE. WE ALSO KNOW THE HAPPINESS AND SUCCESS THAT COMES WITH BEING ABLE TO EXPRESS YOUR CREATIVE IDEAS. HERE AT MESS, WE HAVE AIMED TO SHARE WITH YOU THE MOST EXCLUSIVE AND ORIGINAL IDEAS IN THE WORLDS OF FASHION, ART AND LIFESTYLE. BUT NOW WE WANT TO TAKE THE OPPORTUNITY TO EXPLORE OTHER CREATIVE INDUSTRIES SUCH AS INTERIOR DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE. WE CAN ALL AGREE THAT HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS. BUT WHAT IS THE PERFECT HOME? IS IT A COZY APARTMENT BURSTING WITH LOTS OF NATURAL LIGHT, OR MAYBE IT’S A STYLISH AND MODERN FLAT THAT IS ON PAR WITH THE LATEST TRENDS? THIS IS WHY WE WOULD LIKE TO INTRODUCE YOU TO SMD ARCHITECTS- A YOUNG AND SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS WHO UNDERSTAND THE INTRICATE DETAILS OF DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE, BUT WHO ALSO CAN CREATE YOUR PERFECT HOME. SMD ARCHITECTS FOCUS IS ON CREATIVE INTERIOR DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE. THEY AIM TO INSPIRE THEIR CLIENTS WITH THEIR INNOVATIVE AND COMPREHENSIVE DESIGNS, BUT TO ALSO EXPLORE SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS. BASED IN LONDON, SMD ARE KNOWN FOR PROVIDING SERVICES TO PUBLIC, PRIVATE AND INTERNATIONAL CLIENTS. THEIR PROJECTS RANGE FROM SMALL RESIDENTIAL HOMES TO COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENTS IN THE EDUCATIONAL, RETAIL AND HEALTH SECTORS, PROVING THEY’RE NOT AFRAID OF A CHALLENGE. BUT DESPITE THEIR SUCCESS, SMD STAYS TRUE TO THEIR FOUNDATIONS OF BELIEVING IN DESIGN AND TRULY UNDERSTANDING THEIR CLIENT’S SENSE OF STYLE. SO IF YOU ARE STILL LOOKING FOR THAT SOURCE OF INSPIRATION, YOU CAN EXPERIENCE SMD’S WORLD AT THESE LOCATIONS: EMMA ELLEN

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Elio Fiorucci was nothing less than an avant-garde artist. Considered to be the King of Pop Fashion, Fiorucci was, is and will always be an icon, celebrated and appreciated as a great man even before than as a great designer. Fiorucci dies at the age of 80 years old, in his apartment in via Veneto, Milano, due to a sudden illness. Today the whole world cries his loss and celebrates the man who revolutionized fashion at the end of the 60s, democratizing it and foreseeing the success of what is nowadays known as street style. Fiorucci entered the world of fashion at a young age, first collaborating with his dad, who had a slippers business, and then starting his own business, focusing on the influences coming from the British designers towards the end of the 60s. Indeed, after a trip to the UK and after experiencing and seeing with his own eyes the revolution of Carnaby Street, the beauty of King’s Road, he went back to Italy with his mind well marked by that chaos he saw that “broke any old schemes”. He opened his very first boutique in Milano, in Galleria Passarella.

Elio Fiorucci

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During the 70s he started designing informal clothes that anyone could wear during their everyday life (not business outfits, to make it clear). In 1973 he designed his very first pair of skinny jeans, which will become a trademark of his fashion brand together with the famous Victorian angels, the logo of his brand. In 1976 he opened his first shop in New York on the 59th St. That boutique became a meeting point for artists like Andy Warhol and Truman Capote, who immediately recognized the genius of the

Italian designer. Fiorucci became a close friend of Warhol’s, who inspired him and his work. He also met Jean Michel Basquiat to whom he dedicated a documentary. A barely known Madonna exhibited right in the shop on the 59th St to celebrate the first 15 years of activity of the brand and in 1984 Keith Haring redesigned Fiorucci’s store in Milano. From the 1980s on, the designer opened new stores in LA, Tokyo, Sydney, Rio and Hong Kong, thus turning what once was a local business into a worldwide success. He collaborated with artists like Ettore Sottssass, Andrea Branzi, Franco Marabelli. A lot of his campaigns were shot by the amazing photographer Oliviero Toscani, well known for his controversial campaigns. In 1990, due to some economic troubles, he was forced to sell his brand to the Edwin International, a Japanese fashion business, and in 2003 he even had to sell his megastore in San Babila, close to the Duomo in Milano, to the Swedish brand H&M. However, these events didn’t mark the end of the Fiorucci era. Instead, the designer started a new project, called “Love Therapy”, a new clothing line characterized by dwarves and hearts living in an all pink world. The message Fiorucci wanted to spread was indeed a message of love, peace and happiness. It is uncontested that the world of fashion and the whole world have lost one of its most creative exponents. However, before crying his loss it is imperative to thank Mr Fiorucci for helping revolutionizing that world he so much loved. Thank you for the bright colors, the skinny jeans, the lively graphics and, most important of all, thank you for your art. It has been a pleasure, Mr Fiorucci. Your message and legacy will live on forever. By: Ludovica Tronci

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‘It’s easy to be chewed up and spat out. you’ve got to stay ahead of the game to be able to stay In It.’ - Kate moss Everyone has a Kate Moss moment; a point in time that she made an impact.

S S O M E T A

For me, it was mid 2005, Glastonbury. A festival united in their battle against Mother Nature and her futile attempts at washing an entire camp out. She gave it all she had – thunderstorms and floods, yet the people emerged, soaked, muddy and absolutely victorious. Amongst all of the mess, there was one defining moment, an instant that would take style to a new level. Kate Moss emerged from the battlegrounds, untouched and in all her beauty, in a waistcoat, hot pants and wellington boots. She owned those muddy paths like many catwalks before but more importantly owned her look. I know what you’re thinking- what is glorious about wellies and hot pants? What part of that look said ‘game changer’? Everything. In owning that very moment, she proved to us all it’s not what you wear but how you wear it. Kate Moss is one of very few people we can call a style icon. She is someone who not only inspires our style but our attitude- she is the girl you dream of being at least once in your life (personally I wouldn’t say no to having Johnny Depp on one arm). Now, 2005 was by no means Moss’s most defining, head turning and jaw dropping moment. It was the start of Moss’s career, the early 1990’s that we see a new representation of women emerge. At age fifteen in 1990, Moss was already opening fashion shows for the likes of John Galliano. Diverse designers were seeing this unique appeal of this girl from the suburbs, but warrior-like models from the 80’s could and did not want her to belong.

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Over the next few years, we saw her inner bohemian and her rock ’n’ roll goddess come out. The laid back and rough styles of these trends really reflected the point in life Moss was at. She was more adventurous and to a degree, more reckless, but it didn’t stop her from creating trends along the way. Unforgettably, there was January 2003 where images of Moss’s 30th birthday party went wild. Now it wasn’t the usual party antics or the elaborate ‘Beautiful & The Damned’ theme that drew us all in, but it was the elegant petrol-blue antique sequined dress that she wore that made our jaws drop. But let’s not forget in 2006 when a hologram of Moss appeared at the Alexander McQueen fashion show. Stunning, dramatic and emotional, this holographic image of an ethereal Kate, gave her new light to a new generation.

At 18 years of age and casually dressed, Moss took a meeting with Calvin Klein for an opportunity that would see her being the face of their campaign. Much younger, much smaller and much more natural than her competition, she won the favour of the brand. “What is real is beautiful—looking plain is beautiful,” Klein said. “What is less than perfect is sexy.” The campaign saw Moss teamed with “Marky Mark” Wahlberg, a self proclaimed “thug”, pose in Calvin Klein underwear and jeans, whilst half naked. You can only imagine the controversy. Society had built up this wall against any ideas of sex, so this campaign brilliantly defied it. Whilst many protested that it promoted anorexia, others slanted it as being over sexualised and then there were those who did see it for it’s potential. The 80’s were about glamorisation and power; therefore women were built on these ideals. The 90’s were a time where women began to embrace natural beauty and Moss was the perfect advocate for this change.

So how does she do it? How does Kate Moss charm us, make us forget her errors, look past our judgement and fall in love with her every single time? It may be because she unapologetic. She does not pretend to be something she is not. We have all seen Moss’s rise and fall, but to see her rise again is something not often achieved by those in the spotlight. Despite the criticism and despite all the hate, Moss has hit back and not with her words, but with her success. Living in a chaotic world there are just as many people who will do anything to bring someone down. Moss has always been a media target, which is a testimony to her success. She is human and humans have flaws. She succeeds because she survived. The fact is that she is still as relevant today as she was twenty years ago, asserting her importance and our reliance on her as the face for fashion and beauty. So we thank you Kate, for all of this. Because you have shown that imperfect is perfect and that is the way it should be. by emma ellen

Since then, Moss’s style has been the epitome of evolution. She’s been everything from the grunge teen, in jeans and t-shirts, to turning heads in sheer silver dresses. As her career matured, so did her style where dresses became longer and more glamorous. In 1995, we saw a girl transform to a young woman with fierce independence. Who could forget the Costume Institute Gala of that year, where Moss posed with fellow supermodels Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell, wearing the stunning lemon Calvin Klein gown? The dress was simple, but it was moment defining, transforming her into the beautiful woman we now know.

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MENSWEAR IS TAKING OVER IN LONDON & HERE’S WHY IT’S

BEEN OVERTAKING THE ATTENTION OF LONDON FASHION WEEK, FROM PRESS, BLOGGERS AND FASHIONISTAS. MENSWEAR IS AT ITS MOST EXCITING PEAK FROM FEMININE STYLES TO NOSTALGIC VIBES. IT’S THE TALK OF THE INDUSTRY, WITH ALMOST EVERY BIG NAMED BRAND BRINGING SOMETHING NEW AND EXCITING TO THE TABLE IN ALMOST EVERY SHOW (AND CAMPAIGN). WE’VE LOOKED, HUNTED AND SPOTTED THE KEY TRENDS FROM THE SUMMER SEASON OF 2016 AT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN, TO GIVE YOU THE FULL KNOW INTO WORLD HIGH-FASHION MENSWEAR, WHICH WILL SOON BE TRICKLING DOWN INTO THE HIGHSTREETS. BY CHARLIE PRATT

THE FEMINIST

Wi! gay-marriage becoming legalized, trans-gender becoming a norm and !e empowerment of equal rights, it has been a movement !at has hit !e fashion industry, wi! main focus being menswear. Wi! AW15 seeing sequins, hot pinks, heels, lea!er at Saint Laurent and exposure in Ri" Owens, menswear was bringing out it’s inner woman. For SS16, it was clear !e trend was ongoing and more risky !an ever. Take Topman Design, wi! wide leg 70’s flare, pastel shades, and !e ro"-glam vibes. Todd Lynn also brought out his inner feminie side wi! co-ord outfits, grayscale palle#e and long bangs and hair, crea$ng an elegant yet masculine drag image. Hot pinks were s$ll in demand wi! Be%hold, wi! also vibrant bikini tops over jumpers at Christopher Shannon. It’s becoming more exci$ng seeing !e acceptance and an$cipa$on for gender neutral wear, which is clearly inspiring hundreds of designers in !e process. Wi! all diﬀerent types of style woman climbing into menswear, !ere is no boundaries. What could be next for AW16? 84

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THE CO-ORDINATOR

Co-ords are becoming more and more of a $meless statement. From suits, to tops and sho%s, in a range of patterns, co-ords is THE su'er essen$al. From florals, to bright vibrant prints, its $me to get matching. Take a walk !row !e gardens wi! Richard James, Oliver Spencer and J.W Anderson wi! a varia$on of flower prints. We had detailed designs at Alexander McQueen and Astrid Anderson wi! Craig Green expressing !e colour blo"ing. The whole season was a experimenta$on of matching, showing you can turn a plain pair of sho%s wi! a ja"et into a major fashion statement.

YO SHORT-Y

Your su'er essen$als always include sho%s for menswear, to stay c(l in !e hot heat. The typical essen$al item has taken on !e catwalks turning your daily need into fashion statement. Likes of Richard James, James Long, Christopher Shannon and Ka$e Eary have jumped on !e statement wi! a range of styles from mo$f to matching prints. The beach is ready, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s !e season to get !e swi'ers out!

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THE TYPO AND THE STATEMENT

Bold and opinionated. The trend is about making a statement. Wi! !e Bri$sh slang in House Of Holland, down to le#ers and numbers in JW Anderson. It’s been a wide range of fonts, words, phrases and mo$fs. We’ve even gone down !e route of even being bold about our nerd fana$cs, wi! Bobby Abley showing his love for !e movie franchise Star War’s, wi! tag lines of ‘Princess Slayer’ and ‘Super Duper Storm Tr(pers’. Who know fashion can be so fun (and opinionated?)

FLARE AND WIDE

70’s revival is a massive need !roughout bo! genders. Bigger !e flare !e be#er. We’ve seen highwaists and wide flared trousers on !e catwalk, crea$ng a feminine l(k. From vibrant colour blo"ing at Craig Green, right done to more neutral tones and prints at Agi & Sam, flares have been a big style hit. Addi$onally also wi! Topman and Patri" Grant at E-Tauts have also used !e trend, giving boxy, lose and comfo%able shapes down !e catwalk, perfect to keep c(l in !e su'er heat.

SO GRAB YOUR PINKEST TOP AND YOUR BOLDS PRINTS, IT’S TIME TO DRESS FOR THIS SEASON BOYS! WHO KNOWS WHAT WILL CARRY ON UNTIL NEXT SEASON!

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Milano Fashion Guide Milano looks like heaven to every fashion lover in the world. You only need to make a few steps in the city and you will immediately realize how much fashion characterizes it. Milano is one of those cities where you can actually breathe elegance in the air and it will leave you shocked how well dressed its citizens are. Fashion is part of Milano just like Italy is part of fashion. You will see different styles mixing and all the latest influences and designs wore by all the people who crowd the “Milanesi” streets. Milano well deserves to be considered a fashion capital together with Paris, London and New York, providing some of the best shopping opportunities in the whole world. You will probably be overwhelmed by the concentration of haute couture boutiques but Milano will also entertain you with its arts and culture. Many museums, including fashion museums like the Fondazione Prada, are located here together with graceful mansions and architectural masterpieces, like the Duomo of Milano.

Via Montenapoleone

ious areas of the city. If o, is considered to be one of the most luxur Via Montenapoleone, in the heart of Milan of the most important one is street this d, indee you: to be familiar you are a true fashion lover this name will Armani, Dolce & s. house n fashio home to all the most prestigious streets in the world of fashion since it is If your budget won’t let you here. shops their have all co. & Miu Miu Gabbana, Prada, Versace, Alberta Ferretti, eaming while admiring all taking a stroll around the area and daydr do some crazy shopping, it is still worth Baglioni, a really chic Caffè the g shopped (or daydreamed) stop at the amazing window displays. After havin 6. Spiga nce at via della and cool spot which has its private entra

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Just like via Montenapoleone, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is another historic shopping spot. Opened in 1867, it is one of the oldest shopping malls in the world, characterized by a beautiful and elegant glass-roofed arcade. Prada’s flagship store has been here since 1913 and has now been joined by Louis Vuitton and Gucci. In the mall you will also find other famous brands together with cafes, restaurants and five star hotels. Spend a couple of hours here and then head towards the Duomo since the mall is located in between Piazza della Scala and Piazza Duomo.

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Corso Buenos Aires Corso Buenos Aires is a major street in Milano and counts over 350 shops and outlets. Indeed, it features the highest concentration of clothing shops in the whole Europe. As a consequence, it is one of the busiest streets of Milano but unlike via Montenapoleone or via della Spiga ,Corso Buenos Aires hosts stores that are more oriented towards mass products. Modern fashion outlets have replaced the small shops that used to sell traditional products and that once used to populate this area. A lot of ancient buildings have been replaced by more modern structures, however there still are some neo-classical and art nouveau buildings.

Via Manzoni This street is part of the quadrilatero della moda, a high class shopping district in the city centre that includes via Montenapoleone, via Manzoni, via della Spiga and Corso Venezia. Therefore many fashion retailers are located here even though the area is also well known for the presence of the Museo Poldi Pezzoli and the Grand Hotel et de Milan. The museum will offer you a great variety of Northern Italian artists and is also notable for its Flemish collection. The exhibition also includes weaponry, glasswork, ceramics, jewelry and furnishings. The hotel instead, is one of the most elegant and beautiful luxury hotels and became famous with fashion designers during the 60s and 70s when Milano started hosting its fashion weeks.

As you probably have realized by now, Milano is one of the best places for shopping in the whole world. Fashion characterizes this city that can be considered as the most elegant city in Italy. But fashion is not the only thing it is known for. Arts are part of this beautiful reality while the Milanese cuisine will definitely help you falling in love with this Italian gem. By: Ludovica Tronci

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Via della Spiga Bulgari, Sergio Rossi, Dolce & Gabbana, Krizia and many others have all chosen this pedestrianized street as home to their shops. Walking on this street you won’t help noticing some architectural masterpieces that belong to the years that followed the Second World War. Don’t miss the beautiful Palazzo Garzanti designed by the Milanese architect and designer Giò Ponti, located on Via della Spiga 30.

Porta Ticinese Via Montenapoleone, in the heart of Milano, is considered to be one of the most luxurious areas of the city. If you are a true fashion lover this name will be familiar to you: indeed, this street is one of the most important streets in the world of fashion since it is home to all the most prestigious fashion houses. Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Versace, Alberta Ferretti, Miu Miu & co. all have their shops here. If your budget won’t let you do some crazy shopping, it is still worth taking a stroll around the area and daydreaming while admiring all the amazing window displays. After having shopped (or daydreamed) stop at the Caffè Baglioni, a really chic and cool spot which has its private entrance at via della Spiga 6.

Brera ly by The Brera district was once populated main iful boubeaut offers now and ians bohem and s artist today it Still . shops ue antiq and tiques, curiosity shops d and elegant is considered to be one of the most refine to visit districts of Milano. Brera is definitely a place ing but not only for what it offers in terms of shopp is located also because of the Academy of Brera where of the one ining conta ry, Galle Art the famous Brera Also the foremost collections of Italian paintings. Sera, has Italian national newspaper, Corriere della beautiful its headquarters in one of these narrow and s. street

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Top 10FRESHMESS BLOGGERS

FELICIA SIMION AND HER WORLD “Inspiration comes from life, from daily moments of joy, of questioning, of sadness, music and daydream”. Since the introduction of FRESHMESS to our readers it has grown and evolved into not only including amazingly talented bloggers and photographers but creative artists that cross the borders of art and fashion. One of them undeniably being Felicia Simion. Our interviewee Darya had the fortunate chance to interview her and ask her the process behind her beautiful photographs and how she consistently produces these beautiful ethereal images that are striking in their haunting beauty. Simion’s answers have a down to earth and humble quality to them that speaks volumes about the artist behind the lense. For someone to create such surreal yet simple images leaves little doubt why Simion’s interview and post has made our Top 10 FRESHMESS posts.

YOUNG BLOOD “Photography by Asia Polerowicz Styling by Michalina Stró yk Model by Dominika / D’vision MUA makeup by Natalia Wieloch” Next we have a collaboration between styling guru Michalina Strozyk and photography genius Asia Polerowicz. There combined portrayal of the urban youth is breathtaking. Polerowicz uses the light to maximize her creativity. She somehow manages to use the light to frame the model like a halo then switches to using it to add background geometric patterns which adds another quality to this urbanization and industrial feel. The sporty, chic, 90’s themed clothing highlights the youthfulness of this editorial beautifully. I love how Polerowicz uses a mixture of colour and black and white edits within this fashion story to add another layer. 90

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FASHION BLOGGER JACQUELINE MIKUTA “Another great collaboration was with the jewellery brand JANE KØNIG. I made a giveaway for Valentine’s day and people had to share their love stories, that was a beautiful collaboration.” FRESHMESS initially started due to the desire and faith we had in up and coming bloggers and photographers, this is why even with the growth and evolutionary stance of freshmess I still want to honor our FRESHMESS bloggers that have shared with us numerous inspirational outfits that help us in different ways. One that sticks out in my mind is MIKUTA. She is a blogger that works chic grunge in the summer! Her fresh, grunge and playful fashion sense is an eclectic mix of these qualities. MIKUTA sent us so many photos and they all had to be included! She has such an amazing everyday comfortable grunge style. Her creative chaos is a definite in my top 10 FRESHMESS posts.

“THE MOST TRUSTWORTHY” FASHION DICTATORS: BLOGGERS X FASHION BRANDS “By 2015 fashion world has gained new leaders in the industry. Since fashion bloggers made an appearance about a decade ago, they have definitely grown and have surprisingly become the most influential and the most important fashion dictators.” I love how FRESHMESS has grown to involve more evocative pieces. This is in the top 10 FRESHMESS posts because it is not just the selected imagery that creates pause but the thought process behind it. How important are fashion bloggers in 2015? The roles in fashion have never gone through so much change; thanks to the rise in social media and everyone having the chance to have their voice heard on a much wider audience than before possible. Those collective voices are being heard by the Fashion Industry and are gaining footing. Unfortunately not everyone can look like a Victoria Secret Model; which leads the everyday woman to want to see someone that is believable and they can relate to. This is a very interested read brought to our attention by writer Anastasia Golovicera. This has proven why FRESHMESS is a growing part of MESS, because it all started with the bloggers!

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HIDDEN TREASURES “Photographer: Bartłomiej Nowak Model: Paula Misha Czumaczenko Stylist: Barbara Piekut Hairstyler: Marcela Lange Make up: Dorota Lange” Bartlomiej Nowak’s stark and atmospheric photography skills create an interesting contrast to the tailored and vaguely haute couture gowns that are featured in this editorial. Barbara Piekut’s styling is complimented in a very unique way with the background of what looks like either an industrial building or hospital. I love the contradiction with this modern, minimal architecture with the detailed, textured gowns and jumpsuits. Even though the two are contrasting elements they blend beautifully together and compliment each other in a MESS-Y way. It’s this blend of high fashion and edgy photography skills that place Hidden Treasures firmly in the top 10.

KITCH “Photography by Karolina Harz Make-up and Hair by Elizabeta von Trier Styling by Anna Wójcik Model Weronika Lewandowska” I have always admired the elegance and regality that comes with high fashion editorials. But there is an authentic and fresh quality about quirky, vintage and eccentric shoots. This is why Karolina Harz and Anna Wojick’s pop-y, 80’s themed yet 40’s prep-y themed is a beautiful MESS. It is fun and it is bright and it has the creative chaos that IS FRESHMESS’ message. Harz’s use of studio and coloured lightening adds depth and a wonderful hue to the pictures that accentuate Wojcik’s clothing combinations. What also changes every couple of photos and adds Art Pop head pieces is Elizabeta von Trier’s hair artistry; she uses everyday objects such as lollipops, velvet scarves, flowers, wide silk ribbon and swirly straws in Lewandowska’s hair or on it. It is brilliant!

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FASHION BLOGGER KRISTINA DOLINSKAYA OF DO YOU REMEMBER ME? “It’s hard to answer about my favorite collaborations. All collaborations were a new step forward for me. And all were incredible. Maybe one of the most memorable was a collaboration for lingerie brand called “Made by Niki”. And the most memorable experience I’ve had was when I made my first fashion video.” Dolinskaya stood out for me because she was the first blogger to send MESS her fashion video. The dedication and layout of the video had me fascinated. I love bloggers that combine contrasting styles and elements of trends together, and have a different look from the norm. I am not sure about everyone else but I have days where I feel a little bit grungy or a little bit bohemian but I have never had the dedication to go full force into either/or because it isn’t entirely ‘me.’ This need to wholly identify with one trend or another is quite limiting and I find Dolinkaya’s fashion cocktail of styles refreshing and inspiriting in its own right. Her diverse blogging talents have securely landed her in FRESHMESS Top 10.

ASHLEY YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHY “The Future is Junk Photographer: Ashley Young Stylist: Bluebell Wooi & Francesca Scott” What I was struck by the most in this futuristic editorial is Wooi and Scott’s styling originality. There use of construction gloves, bubble wrapped tops, customized visors, dip dyed plastic gloves and metallic shapes on the eyebrows. These self made pieces add to this unique shoot that merges metallics and hues. The photographer, Young, makes use of the emotive response colour has on us. When I looked at the images I found myself favouring the first two with the purple background, they make the model’s skin seem almoth ethereal and adds to that futuristic quality. Young, Wooi and Scott’s collaboration make a fashionable, chic, edgy and dark story out of everyday objects that is amazing.

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FASHION BLOGGER LISA LINH “I am Lisa Linh: a CSULB graduate, full-time marketer for a menswear brand in LA, lifestyle blogger, photographer, cat lover, and freelance social media coordinator for a lingerie company. I’ve been called the “Jack of All Trades” for short” This quirky and colorful fashion blogger caught my eye for a bit. I loved how beautifully written her blog was! Her passion for writing shines through and is a stunning combination of stunning photography (thanks to her boyfriend/personal photographer ) and informative writings. Most bloggers are more visual beings than others and they do say a picture is worth a thousand words. But never underestimate the power of well thought out writings. Linh’s attention to detail within her photography as well as her blog content helps her stand out above the other FRESHMESS posts.

JEFF TULINIEMI PHOTOGRAPHY “Designer & Stylist: Daniele Bardis Photographer: Jeff Tuliniemi Model: Victoria Kashtelo Make-up: Sandra Nilsen” This is the final spot of FRESHMESS Top 10 Memorable posts. And I have saved this one till last because even though it is a stunning use of light, shade, studio effect and Tuliniemi using the naturally textiled clothing to its beautifully coloured advantage. But the fashion editorial itself is an incredible high quality look book of budding designer Bardis. When she approached me and asked me to publish it I was blown away by how stunning her clothing was being photographed. Not only that but the clothing looked like a cross between biker chick, high fashion and yet somewhat everyday wear? It is a very diverse collection and I am excited to see what the future holds for this creative team in the future!

by: Lucy Creber 94

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Revolution of the Renaissance When you think of the word Renaissance, what comes to mind? Leonardo Di Vinci? The Mona Lisa? Or maybe Cate Blanchett in â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Elizabethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, just owning the title of Queen Bee. But do you ever think of the importance of this movement, in the history of art and culture, but also itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s significance today? Renaissance is defined as being reborn. A term used to describe a time during the Middle Ages, where the expectation was for people to devote their lives to the church, broke free of these shackles and started to focus on themselves. Individuals explored the findings of philosophy, science and mathematics. What this did was open the minds, inspiring the people to want to encapsulate the power of knowledge. In addition, what this did for the artists was inspire them to portray these new experiences of the individual, but also the natural beauty and mystery of the world. Renaissance artists focused on humanism, which meant they sought to expose the realism of the human form. By doing this, their art works valued a great use of depth, colour to create contrast, proportion and attention to the finer details. So as artists empowered their subjects in their paintings, the subjects began to empower themselves through their dressing. Fashions of the Renaissance can only be described as opulent and extravagant. Women wore clothing that was rounder and fuller than previous trends. Dresses had higher waistlines, square necklines and finstrella sleeves. But as we move further along the Renaissance timeline, the waistlines began to lower, become tapered and v-shaped. Whilst necklines remained square, they would often be raised to accommodate high standing ruffs. Sleeves became bigger and stuffed and so to did the skirts of the dresses, commonly referred to as the farthingale. So what did this image and expectation of women represent? What kind of women did these trends inspire? Fashion in history, as we all know, is expression. An expression of status and especially in the renaissance, an expression of our individuality. We can see the influence of this movement trickle down through history. On one side, we see the

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Alexander McQueen Ready to Wear 2008

natural and sensual beauty inspired by the wealth of Renaissance fashion. Then on the other, we see the empowerment of individuality, such as the 1980’s trend of power dressing, which like in the renaissance, big shoulders and big everything defined your social stand. Power dressing really came to fame in the 1980’s. The look was all about structure and form – strong and masculine shapes. It was during this decade, that strong female icons like Margaret Thatcher saw the correlation between influence and fashion. What Thatcher and other influential women of power did, was eliminate the line between male and female workers. If men wore suits, then so to would women. Designer, Thierry Mugler was a major force in providing women with what they wanted, but also needed. His powerful and structured designs used thick shoulder padding to create sharp and downward triangular shapes. But he also used bright and bold colours to reinforce the idea that women were a force of their own. But if we look to now, the influence of the Renaissance that we see is the notion of natural beauty. Alexander McQueen, the man himself and also the label under the care of Sarah Burton, are all

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Alexander McQueen Ready to Wear 2013

Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear 2012

influenced by history. Not only the connection to our own families but to our existence. Notably, McQueen’s Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear collection stays true to the powerful representation of historical fashion. What we see here is the great use of luxurious fabrics. Draped and moulded to the silhouette of it’s subject. Sleeves and necklines are overly exaggerated, giving the idea of great importance. We see large and opulent collars- ruffles that frame the wearers face, but we also see the emphasis on the finer details, with beading used to create the those square necklines. We then can look to the brand’s Fall 2013 Readyto-Wear collection, where similar ideas of the previously mentioned collection are used. Here Burton has emphasised the use of contrast- only straying away from the use of black and white, with a hint of gold that might also be establishing the richness of the garments. The main features of this capsule collection are three elementsthe arms, shoulders and waistlines. Whilst each garment’s structure is cinched in at the waist, majority of the looks accentuate this with the use of heavy metallic armour like belts. Each look has the subject’s arms framed whether it is with caped shoulder peplums or voluminous sleeves. Again, each garment was highly detailed to a standard of old Renaissance style. But let’s also look at Dolce & Gabbana, a brand that defines beauty. Their style is where classic meets current and feminine is sexy. It’s alluring

and romantic without being too much. ‘She can indifferently be a manager, wife, mother or lover but she is always - and in whatever case - thoroughly a woman.’ The dynamic duos Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear collection was a true representation of the history of their brand, their city and them selves. It’s a culture that respects femininity being a powerful force. The collection opened strong, really highlighting the contrast and depth through the use of black and gold. The black base, where luxurious fabrics such as velvet and lace were used, allowed gold detailing to honour true craftsmanship (needlepoint and tapestry). As fierce women draw you into the collection, it is what follows next. The tone shifts- we see a more gentle and floral approach. Softer colours and silhouettes flow, representing the individual’s beauty. By the end of the collection, we see these two women meet – beautiful and strong – with black and floral pieces representing this. Overall, the collection paid homage to the true reflections of the Renaissance period- the influence of the church can be seen in the foundations, but individuality and liberty are what defines the style. As we can see, the Renaissance was a true revolution. Not only for art, but for style and the impact of what we wear. Strong structures combined with naturalism are the formula for empowered individuality and style. So now let’s think, with this new perception, what comes to mind when you think of the word Renaissance? By: Emma Ellen

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BLOGGERS X FASHION BRANDS BY 2015 FASHION WORLD HAS GAINED NEW LEADERS IN THE INDUSTRY. SINCE FASHION BLOGGERS MADE AN APPEARANCE ABOUT A DECADE AGO, THEY HAVE DEFINITELY GROWN AND HAVE SURPRISINGLY BECOME THE MOST INFLUENTIAL AND THE MOST IMPORTANT FASHION DICTATORS. As people around the world started recognizing these bloggers and as the audience started hitting that “Follow” button, brands began to realize that this is a key ingredient to their success and the best way to advertise campaigns, events and other marketing efforts would be to partner with bloggers that have enough “Likes” and “followers” to make them “the ones to trust”. Magazines, clothing and jewelry makers, up-and-coming designer products – brands are chasing bloggers for an opportunity to reach a large, fashion-focused audience. Bloggers have always influenced the consumer purchasing decisions, but the craze for a dose of fashion advice has only increased. They started off as fashion enthusiasts sharing their daily outfits or inspiration imagery and now, bloggers have definitely gained a “celebrity status”. As customers began to listen to their opinion, brands had no choice but to start inviting bloggers to various fashion events or to seat them front row at their shows. Since they are faces consumers could relate to, they are not Victoria Secret models or not famous Hollywood actors, it is much easier to trust them with fashion opinions. Bloggers play by their own rules and this is exactly what the 2015 fashion audience wants. Brands are partnering with them, using them as models in various campaigns, invite them to be their ambassadors and even co-designing products.

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Kr In 2012, Marc Jacobs continued the “inviting bloggers” tradition. This time renowned it-girl Leandra Medine of “The Man Repeller,” live-hosted the Marc Jacobs Collection runway show. Emily Weiss Instagram

Chiara Ferragni, known as “The Blond Salad,” who started her blog five years ago, has 4.2 million followers. Last time we checked, she had almost the same number of followers than Vogue and that, my friends, is a revolution. An independent fashion blogger has as much influence, based on numbers, as a respected 100-year-old fashion powerhouse.

Chanel cast Peony Lim in an ad campaign, Kristina Bazan was invited to host Louis Vuitton Gstaad opening event, Elin Kling collaborated with H&M and released a Kling-designed line.

This is the exact reason why the role of a blogger is undeniably important – he or she has a significant influence on the pre and post-purchase behavior of customers.

ristina Bazan Instagram

Peace Love Shea Instagram

Engagement with consumers, this is what gives all the influencing power to bloggers. They trigger discussions and are credible because they are “one of us” as we previously mentioned. They are girl/boy-next-door types that are trustworthy. And, the similarity between reader and blogger makes a big impact on the final purchase decision.

Gizele Oliveira Instagram

These are the online-world influencers getting their readers or so called "followers" to shop, and landing collaborations with brands along the way. Over the past decade these independent publishers have become a real force in the fashion industry, lets have a look at some of the most influential bloggers right now. Anastasia Golovicera messmag.com

FASHION How Sport Has Influenced The World of

For some, in fact most people, sport is what motivates them the most in life. When combined they make a stunning pair.

Today more than ever there has been a massive spotlight on the world of fitness and health. Whether this has been portrayed positively in health magazines or not is for one to decide; but when looking online at instagram’s of those who live a healthy lifestyle they have attracted a large audience. Why exactly? It’s a question we ask ourselves too, but it’s one that is easily answered. The answer is that today people have really been taught/informed about the importance of leading a healthy lifestyle. Some wish to share it online in order to not only motivate others but themselves too! However, the importance of sport isn’t only seen online but instantly you’ll take notice of it when you step out of your door and roam the streets of a crowded city. Whether you spot people running in parks or heading to their daily yoga session, you always seem to cross paths with someone who is making the most of being young and healthy! The word “young” may be misinterpreted, as sport and fashion really don’t have any age. It’s about wanting to feel good about you as well as looking good! As mentioned beforehand, no matter at what age, whether you’re 16 or 61, being active has so many benefits (both physically and mentally). For those of you who are still in education, playing a sport on a team can help build many friendships and it is also proven that teens that exercise regularly also attain higher grades. Everyday you learn something new exercise definitely increases ones quality of life, something that many aspire to. Let’s be honest though, remaining committed is difficult but made easier with the possibility of looking good whilst working out! For those of you who like to dress up for every occasion it is now possible to do so when playing sports too! Thankfully fashion designers have teamed up with world-renowned sporting houses to create the perfect balance between high fashion and everyday sportswear. We call it “sportluxe”. Ever since the beginning anyone will tell you that when it comes to fashion there are quite literally no limits, likewise in sport. So why not combine the both together? Starting with sportswear being spotted at numerous Fashion Weeks worldwide. We have seen several sports items being worn throughout the hectic days whether it be in New York, Milan, Paris or London. London seemed to be the most daring to try out the new trend with Milan being the next to follow. A classic piece seen at Somerset House in London was without a doubt a trendy pair of trainers. From Adidas, Nike to Puma we spotted them all. Perhaps the fact that

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many run from show to show it was the main reason as to why sneakers have become so popular at events such as Fashion Week. Bold coloured sports bras are undoubtedly another popular item amongst the likes of bloggers, regularly worn under a sheer white t-shirt to really have the bra being the star of the show in the most non-vulgar way possible. These are only some examples of how sportswear can be worn and were spotted as street style in some of the world’s major fashion capitals. On the other side of the spectrum are the individuals who spend the majority of their time playing a sport or training and today doing such things doesn’t require you to dress so plainly! So many athletes are seen wearing bold sport attire and the reason is because they spend most days training hard so it’s basically seen to be their uniform. It’s not only professional athletes who have such a privilege to wear designer sportswear; it has become more or less affordable for the public who spend their days exercising too! What luck, right?! It only seems right for us to splash out on the things we use the most so if in your case it’s sportswear why not train in the most fashionable yet comfortable way?

One of the most obvious examples is Stella McCartney’s collaboration with Adidas. With Adidas having achieved much success after the complete re-launch of the classic ‘Stan Smith’ trainer, the collaboration with Stella McCartney only made the sportswear more desirable amongst not only athletes but also fashionistas all around the world! Stella McCartney’s collection has graced the courts of Wimbledon with numerous world-renowned sport icons such as Maria Kirilenko wearing stunning tennis sets from the collection. Quite evidently we can see why! There is such diversity in the collection; there is truly something for everyone! Whether you’re a woman who wants a more classy and elegant look or someone who is looking to stand out from the crowd, Stella McCartney has it all! Classic whites or bold prints there really are a choice for every personality! Recently Greek fashion designer Mary Katrantzou has teamed up with Adidas and has created a capsule showing off her iconic prints! This is not the first time Mary Katrantzou has collaborated with the world-renowned sports brand and after her first being a major success; this year Adidas bring us her second collab with the label. With Adidas still projecting a very iconic 80’s vibe, this capsule collection will bring an innovative twist in comparison to Stella McCartney’s collaboration! One, which I am sure, we will spot during the streets of fashion week coming up in September! There are so many ways you can incorporate sportswear with any outfit from leggings, bomber jackets, sneakers and bras; just to name a few! There are really no age limits! Enjoy exercising, looking and feeling great at any age! Make the most of the time you have to really focus on being the best version of yourself by training hard and looking good when doing so!! Will you be trying out the new sportsluxe trend in your city or will you take your sporting game to a whole new level with designer sportswear? Guila Bardelli

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h t i w y e n My Jour VISOANSKA BRAND AND SPA SIX SENSES OF THE HOTEL THE WESTIN PARIS – VENDÔME If you’ve ever wondered how is that to feel absolutely relaxed, rejuvenated and connected to Nature, but somehow you could not achieve that feeling in the past, Visoanska and Spa Six Senses of the Hotel The Westin Paris – Vendôme make together an ultimate solution to help you find peace, joy and happiness during your spa session.

by dominika perek

My Day in Spa Six Senses of the Hotel The Westin Paris – Vendôme

Six Senses Spa is located in the heart Paris, at rue de Castiglione and is a part of Vendome SPA in one of the most exclusive hotels - Westin Hotel Paris. If you’re looking to find a moment for yourself after busy day at work, indulge yourself with one of natural rituals treatments in Spa Six Senses of the Hotel The Westin Paris – Vendôme .

9 AM I was invited by Elisabeth Visoanska, founder of Visoanska Skin Care Paris, to come and experience my Five Senses Treatment. I arrive 30 minutes before to prepare myself for this magical session. I arrive in the Spa and I am completely amused by its design and space. I change my clothes, I remove my make up and I am ready for 60 minutes of out of world experience. Can massage be a Ritual? When you enter the special space for a massage in Spa Six Senses of the Hotel The Westin Paris – Vendôme , you can feel like everything was prepared to make you happy and comfortable at this place. The lights are designed to give you an extraordinary experience. Reptionist gives to me and my friend ginger water and invites me to try latest Visoanska products displayed on the shelfs. Next, I change my clothes and put white cotton robe on, which makes me feel fully prepared to experience 5 Elements Body Massage.

interior Six Senses at Rue de Castiglione 3 Rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris

I chose one of 4 Visoanska’s products to deeply drainage my body cells and nourish my skin with natural ingredients.

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after treatment

cocoons area 10 AM My 5 Rituals Massage starts with making sure that I lie down appropriately and my knees and elbows are slightly higher than rest of my body. Then, miraculous hands of masseuse start to firmly massage my calves and legs. She slowly changes the target from legs to arms and then to my whole back, massaging me with cold and hot stones.

after treatment

After 60 minutes of deeply relaxing, soothing my body and soul 5 rituals massage in Spa Six Senses of the Hotel The Westin Paris – Vendôme, I feel brand new and want to spread my joy and happiness with rest of the world. Final judgement: 9/10 for relaxing massage, spectacular body firming effects and nice staff of Spa Six Senses of the Hotel The Westin Paris – Vendôme Find your inner happiness!

5 Elements massage

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PRODUCT REVIEW by dominika perek

If you thought that all of the pseudo-natural cosmetics available in stores can revitalize, nourish and sooth your skin, you were wrong! Since the first time I got to know concentrated with the top natural ingredients and miraculously designed in labs Visoanska Paris products, I realized that ecological cosmetics can do wonders! Visoanska Paris was founded by Elisabeth Visoanska, Polish woman with big passion for wellness and all holistic beauty and skin care solutions. My first meeting in Visoanska office, (near legendary Lanvin office in Paris) allowed me to know spectrum of information about designing molecules in cosmetics, to make our skin absorb all of the nutrients and work as natural barrier for our organisms. The founder's main goal is to combine all natural, holistic solutions with revolutionary and innovative technology to give to all of the health

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aware people, the best skin solutions found in Visoanska products. One of my absolute favourites that really brightens my skin is Hypnotic Eye Potion (pick of Angelina Jolie as well), full of condensed, nutritious ingredients that give you the perfect glow and natural look, even after long day at work. For every day moisturizing effect, I strongly suggest using ?Jour Day? cream that is very quickly absorbed by the skin and give you fresh, soothed and moisturized skin. I always use it during my travels, since air at planes can be very damaging and drying for my skin. Next phenomenal product of Visoanska is make up removal tonic, Source Première, that is full of small Amber stones from Baltic Sea. This product is the first make-up remover that doesn’t give you allergic symptoms, pimples or red skin day after and perfectly passes the test after long day at work! Its super refreshing smell, non fatty nor too liquid consistence, make this product the best make up remover of all time. If you haven’t tried it yet, you should and your skin will feel immediate relief! Last, but not least, ?Noir Cream?, after busy day is an ideal cream to apply - full of nutrients, not too heavy nor smelly, revitalizes your skin during your sleep. You do not have to apply 3 night creams anymore! Rest and at the same time, nourish your skin and get rid of damaged skin cells! To fully complete your Visoanska skin care routine, use detoxifying and nutritionally dense Visoanska supplements for day and night that will make your skin look beautiful, glowing and young forever. I was given the opportunity to try out 30-day Visoanska supplement treatment for my skin and my skin never been so good! Free of pimples, red and dry skin, these concentrated full of active ingredients supplements gave me super glowing and beautiful skin! Thank you Visoanska and keep up the good work!

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Top 10

Best Dressed Countries in the World

The country we have born in has given us a cultural and historical heritage that has contributed to make us the people we are today. The story of our country has shaped our own story and who we are but also its stereotypes and characteristics have played a role too so that now everyone expects to see an American always with a sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;more in his/her hands. But our nation has also given us something else, that is to say a huge fashion and style heritage. We might not have thought about it but being born in a certain city in the world means that we have grown up with specific role models and have become accustomed to certain styles. However, as styles arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t unchangeable and they mature together with us, they influenced by many things. One of these is the country you live in, that might be different from the country you were born in. I realized it myself. I have been living in three different countries in the past three years and I noticed how my style has changed accordingly to the place I was living in. When I am in Italy, I tend to dress more fashionable but also a bit more sophisticated while in the UK I turn into more of a street style person and in the US I try to combined this mix. So here is a list of different nationalities and their styles, see if you can recognize yourself into one of these! Ludovica Tronci

italy

Italy is notoriously the country of fashion. Just think of the amount of big fashion houses of Italian nationality like Dolce&Gabbana, Armani, Valentino, Prada, Miu Miu, Gucci, Versace, Brunello Cucinelli, Ermenegildo Zegna and so on! The style is unmistakable, it is as if Italians were born with la moda (fashion) in their veins. Italian style is all about elegance, femininity and simplicity, about being able to look chic with the least amount of effort. To understand what I really mean a trip to Milan is highly recommended. If you are into fashion history you will be able to visit places like Fondazione Prada and Armani Silos and by just looking around you will realize you have arrived in the city of fashion.

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Chiara Ferragni in Valentino

2. UK

UK’s style can be defined as eccentric, funny and fearless. The Brits mix a lot of prints and patterns and just look as if they have thrown on theirselves whatever they like so that the end result looks quite effortless. Plus, they love vintage and never want to look ‘too done’ so messy hair and smudgy makeup are not weird to see. Of course London, and in particular areas like Shoreditch and Camden Town but also Canary Wharf, are the best places where to have a bite of the true UK fashion style.

Romana Flello, Street Style

Camille Charriere

U.S.

American style is really varied. Depending on where you go, especially North or South, you will see many differences. One thing though is common to every American: they want to be stylish but put comfort on first place. Plus, you will see a lot of people in sports clothes as sports is such a huge reality. New York is definitely the most fashionable American city but if you are interested to see the style differences than go a bit more South like Miami, the reign of party dresses and bikinis, or Texas. I found Chicago to be a good compromise between the three.

beyondbostonchic.com

France

The huge rivalry between Italy and France is also due to fashion. France is the homeland of Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and so on. They are known for their haute couture tradition and for their chic and sophisticated style. They pull off classic pieces, modernizing them with accessories or hairstyles. To experience the luxury of French fashion a trip to the French Riviera is what you need. Unless you want to go to one of the fashion capitals, then Paris is the place to be.

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5. Maruya Saeko

Japan

Japan is a mix of everything. From gothics to lolitas to hipsters to fashionistas and bloggers, Tokyo has been acclaimed as the best city in the world for street fashion photography. Japan started to emulate the Western fashion during the middle of the 19th century and, as a consequence, has formed street fashion styles that are a mix of traditional and current trends. Some styles are extreme but most of them can be seen at any fashion week in the world.

Chikio, Street Style

6. Australia

The surf culture and friendly climate deeply influence the Australian fashion tastes. Hippies inspired styles mingle with the eternal summer looks so that the result is quite casual and individualistic. The Aussie’s style is influenced by the American’s and skinny jeans are a must. Melbourne and Sydney compete on the fashion ground too so that it is hard to tell which is the most fashionable city between the two. Probably a good solution is to do an Australian tour and go check it yourself!

Collage Vintage

Spain

Spain is not only about espadrillas. Actually, Spanish women love wearing high heels and bright colors. Also boots and ‘Aladdin style’ pants are amongst the things you need to dress like a native Spanish. While Madrid is a bit more sophisticated, Barcelona is probably the city that better reflects the Spanish style. 108

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Suma Lifestyle

8. Sweden

The homeland of Cheap Monday and, most importantly, H&M is finding her way through fashion. Their style is quite casual but chic, characterized by oversized sweaters, ripped jeans and boots, especially Chelsea boots. More in general, neutral pieces are perfect for the Scandinavian’s minimalist aesthetic. Also, if you really want to dress like a native, it is compulsory to buy one of the Fjällräven Kånkens’ backpacks that are becoming a hit anywhere in the world. Stockholm won’t let you down!

Caroline Blomst

9. Sunset de Amor

Lebanon

10.

Elie Saab was born in Beirut, enough said. Known for being very stylish, the Lebanese are deeply influenced by the Western fashion. Heels and mini skirts, crop pants, patterns, colors are seen everywhere. And make up is quite a big thing too and you will realize it yourself if your next trip is going to be in Beirut.

Colcci Fashion Tight Jeans

Brazil

The country of Havaianas and bikinis is pulling off a new style and new image of itself, also thanks to the many models that are in the industry of fashion. Tight jeans and dresses are good for whatever occasion. However, there is no clear fashion style that can identify the whole country as Brazilians are very proud of their bodies and wear whatever is more comfortable to them but also anything that can show skin. Huge influences are celebs and movie stars. Make sure to fly over during the Sao Paolo Fashion Week.

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You Are What You Wear Tell me. Who are you? Can you honestly sit there and tell me that the person you are is the person you want to be. The kind of person, who sets themself aside from the rest- empowered, liberated and free. But then again itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about knowing; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about being aware of the ability to possess this powerful and optimistic ideal that individuals of the past and present have tried to defiantly defend for many years. These ideals are empowered by our freedom of speech, equality and even down to the style we choose to wear. Everything we do, everything we say and everything we wear, is a true representation of the individual we are. Some will deny it, but I say embrace it. Fashion is forever evolving and will always remain the product of change. If we look back, it is undeniable that the 20th century saw the greatest shift in the

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importance of style. As individuals and movements alike began to become more aware of their surroundings they began to change. If we look at fashion and art as a whole, the first conscious rebellious shift would be that of the time of the First World War. People started to find their voice. These people â&#x20AC;&#x201C; artists and designers - were the torchbearers of liberation, individuality and freedom. Their artistic expression began to represent their rebellion and in turn influenced their society. When we do look back, it is evident to see fashion used as a channel and a way of representing a changed existence. This is evident of the designers of the time, like Chanel who was inspired by equestrian active wear, where the practicality and functionality of menswear proved influential to creating a modern woman. It was these earliest appearances of menswear that not only served as being more practical, but was also the roots of what fashion was to become for women.

It was the 1960’s that saw another great shift in values, as the youth rebelled against the ideals of their predecessors. All social traditions that had dictated what you could wear and by whom, were gone. “Feminine men” and “girlish boys” was an image of unrest to some but was a turning point for others. The idea of unisex clothing was embraced, for both men and women started to wear jeans. It makes you think, how the simple casual jeans that you may wear today and every other day were a turning point in the shift of equality some years ago. You can thank your jeans for every opportunity you have had the right to have… well maybe let’s not go that far, but where would we be if that change hadn’t occurred? Fashion continued to liberate, but there was a demand for clothing that was comfortable and practical as it was influential. Designers embraced this demand for more practical daywear. Yves Saint Laurent led the way with Le Smoking suit in 1966. He made women sexy without over sexualising them and he was able to create something where style and comfort were used in the same sentencenot easily and often done, even today. The suit was an image of empowerment. It pioneered minimalistic and androgynous styles. It was the forefront for the 1980’s power suit where there were no barriers and no limitations. The image of big shoulders and big… well everything, united individuals in their quest for independence and respect. Many designers of the 1980’s were drawn to fantasy and thus embraced escapism. Yet there were others who were influenced by their reality. There were those, who used their style to acknowledge their difference from the rest of their society. Punk was the forerunner in this movement at this time. Rebellious and outcast youths clung to the image created by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren and thrived off shock reactions. Punk defied mainstream norms and adopted the DIY form of self-expression. But punk was more than the caricatured look of a safety pin through the ear; it was an attitude and an authentic way of life. Let’s not forget about those other designers of the time, whose designs messmag.com

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empowered their freedom of speech and mocked their reality. Katharine Hamnett used her 1983-84 Autumn/Winter collection, ‘Choose Life’ to campaign political, environmental and social issues. In an active protest, Hamnett wore a T-shirt from the same collection emblazoned with the slogan ‘58% DON’T WANT PERISHING’ when meeting Margaret Thatcher. Or what about Georgina Godley, whose 1986 Lumps and Bumps collection challenged the “idealistic” image of feminine beauty. Today in our society we are more accepting of change and diversity. We are more open to the power of one’s voice and opinion. We see the possibility in everything we do, yet where does this leave us for cultural change and inspiration? When I look back at those ambitious individuals who fought for their right and social stand, I wonder how my own generation and those to come will turn our own fashion and style into something of our own. Fashion has become more global than it ever was before; its appeal is that it is so easily accessible. Does this mean that the opportunity to be empowered has been lost amongst our hunger for Zara’s seasonal sales? I believe not. There are girls and boys, women and men who continue to use their style as form of escapism and expression. People, who feel lost and rejected by those around them, find solace and empowerment in their style. We as a society are moving forward, as we have begun to accept the reality of sexuality and individuality. It doesn’t matter whoever you may be, we have the right to be able to be who we want, what we want and wear whatever we want too. We want to be able to express our freedom of thought and speech in any way we like; fashion is by all means that channel. So, I will ask you again. Who are you? You are now the person you will always be. By: Emma Ellen

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When you wish upon a Zuhair Murad star, as us dreamers do, you have dreams that come in the form of skilfully curated masterpieces, which shimmer and shine in the presence of its wearer. Zuhair Murad’s Autumn/Winter 2015 Haute Couture collection was brilliantly dazzling. This collection was no ‘twinkle, twinkle little star.’ It was a seamless ‘Space Oddity’. Not one to shy away from a crystal or two, Murad finally turned to the sky for inspiration. Intrigued by the array of colours projected above, he felt compelled to explore it further “I thought why not do a collection of the stars, of everything in this beautiful universe with this mysterious and twinkling light.” As a designer, Murad perfects the ability to create pieces that not only expose a woman’s prowess, but also strengthen it. Yet how does this man consistently execute these collections, these styles and these emotions? It is because he understands. Since the late 1990’s, when he first made his mark, Murad has been on journey of discovering what silhouettes and textures reveal the subtleties of a woman’s body and her femininity. So with a vision of beauty and mystery, Murad aimed for the stars- from the jewels in the sky to the mythical goddesses of the 1970’s. The collection was to bring to life this cosmic woman, whose individualism shone through. As the brand described, the collection was divided into what could be perceived as the four qualities it stood for- Stellar Shades, Lunar Sunlights, Celestial Bodies and Fatale Attraction. The main transition that occurred was that of colour. The show opened in tones of black, drawing on the notion of mystery, for the galaxy is still a place of the unknown. It then shifted into tones of maroon and red, playing on seduction

and our desire. Red soon turned hues of blue, which was the turning point in the collection from mysterious to tranquil. Finally, it shifted to beautiful tones of white drawing on the perceived colour of a stars light. Silhouettes of the collection were feminine and flattering. Dresses ranged from being elegant and voluminous with full skirts, short and playful to slimming and oh-so sexy. In keeping with the tradition of feminine style, each look was nipped in at the waist. When it came to fabric Zuhair Murad did not hold back on variety or luxury – dresses, capes and shawls of silk tulle, georgette, crêpe de chine, organza, velvet and olympian furs. Yet let’s not forget the detail in embroidery and beading all of which turned beautiful dresses into dazzling stars. Zuhair Murad aimed for the stars and succeeded. Creating a collection that doesn’t over analyse femininity but rather shows it strength. In a beautiful display, the brand proved that when you wish upon a Zuhair Murad star, a spectacular series of dreams do come true. by emma ellen

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Actresses and Models: Blurred Lines

There was a time when everyone just did what he/she was good at and the world was just fine. But for the world to be great they told us we needed to be multitasking, to step out of our comfort zone and take up new challenges everyday. That is kind of what happened to the Hollywood’s world. Hollywood was and is amazing but far are the times when actresses were just actresses and George Clooney was just George Clooney. Nowadays these huge personalities aren’t just the most popular faces on the big screen but they have also taken over the fashion industry, being some of the most popular faces of magazine covers and fashion campaigns too. Vogue Paris Nov 2010. Model Natasha Poly.

Since the beginning, the least complex definition of the role of models was that to “display clothes by wearing them” (Oxford Dictionary). Models have been the face (and body) of all the fashion campaigns, magazine covers and fashion collaborations since basically the rise of the fashion industry. However, in the last years they started to face more and more the competition of their new rivals: the Hollywood’s celebs. Indeed, actresses and actors are now becoming the face of the most prestigious fashion houses even more than in the past. The relationship between Hollywood and the industry of fashion has always been strong. Indeed, actors and actresses are the first and most important buyers of haute couture pieces and a huge source of income since they display their outfits to millions of people

every time they appear on a magazine or are on the big or small screen. However, in the past few years this relationship has grown stronger than ever so that now the Hollywood’s celebs have become the real ambassadors of many fashion brands. For example, when we think of Lancôme the picture that immediately comes up to our mind is that of Julia Roberts, Hollywood’s most beautiful smile. And when we pronounce the word Burberry it is almost impossible not to link it to the gorgeous Emma Watson, who has been the face of their campaigns both in 2009 and in 2010. Only this year, Riccardo Tisci made Julia Roberts the star of Givenchy’s Spring/Summer campaign while Prada enrolled Ethan Hawke, Ansel Elgort, Jack O’Connell and Miles Teller and put his 2015 Spring/Summer Men campaign in the hands of the four Hollywood stars. Miu Miu bet everything on the actresses Maddison Brown, Hailey Gates, and repeat Miu Miu campaign stars Mia Goth and Stacy Martin (while last year Miuccia Prada decided to give this opportunity to Oscar winning Lupita Nyong’o) and last year Amy Adams became the face of the Max Mara’s accessories campaign, being the second actress ever in the history of the Italian brand to share such an honor. As you can see, nothing is unchangeable, not even fashion and its pillars. As Isabella Rossellini, former Lancôme ambassador and spokes model, explained in an interview with the UK Telegraph: “Now there is a celebrity fixation. Models are not doing so many of the campaigns-it’s actresses. And if they are in a successful film when 114

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they are 38 or 40, they still get the campaigns. But it’s the celebrity that gives them the longevity. Most models start working less at 30, and then by the time they are 35 it’s over completely.” So what is the future of models going to look like? Where will we see Kendall Jenner when she turns 38? It is hard to predict and even harder to generalize. Indeed, there are some models like Adriana Lima or Gisele Bundchen or Kate Moss, that even though are they not the youngest they still are some of the most wanted models by every fashion brand in the world. However, just like actresses and actors learned how to be multitasking, it might be that models decide to be just as brave and open up to new challenges too, maybe in the Hollywood’s world itself! Indeed, if actors can be models why cannot models be actors? Cameron Diaz, Charlize Theron, Gemma Ward, Heidi Klum and even Gisele Bundchen already open up this way a few years ago. Some of them, like Cameron Diaz, even turned out to be better at acting than modeling. And think of Marilyn Monroe, who is probably the world’s most famous model-turned actress in the human history!

Jack O’Connell for Prada

Emma Watson for Burberry

The last famous case of model/actress is that of Cara Delevingne, starring in Paper Towns. The top model will soon be on the big screen, as the movie is set to be released on July 24th in the United States. It is a teen comedy-drama film based on the 2008 novel written by John Green (the same Cara in Paper Towns

Cara in Anna Karenina

author of the worldwide success The Fault In Our Stars or TFIS for the fans), in which Cara plays the role of Margo Roth Speigelman, one of the main characters. Despite this being Delevingne’s major role, her face is not new to the movie industry. She has indeed starred in films like Anna Karenina and The face of an angel, has five films in post-production and she also took part to shorter productions like The Return or Die Antwoord: Ugly Boy. It is too early to know if Cara will decide to pursue a career in the acting world but what we do know is that she has recently departed from the team of Storm Models that have officially removed her face from their website. The line between actresses and models seems to be every day more blurred. Of course, we cannot generalize and say that every model can be an actress just like not every actress can be a model. However, this phenomenon is becoming more and more popular and cannot go unnoticed. Some will say that for these people it is much easier to give it a go and try to recycle him/herself as an actor/actresses. But truth is that even if these famous models might have an easy access to auditions, they need to be twice as much talented than everyone else in order to have the role and break people’s prejudices. We should instead be supportive: after all they are showing us that no matter where or how we started and what we do, it is never too late to pursue our real dreams and find our real path in life. Ludovica Tronci messmag.com

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There is no such place as the eternal city. Rome is a fascinating capital and probably one of the most unique cities in the whole globe since it looks as if it is a city frozen in time. Wherever you are going to turn your attention, you will bump into an ancient building or an historic monument. Even if you are not an history lover you can’t help fall for this city, which you will find perfect for a romantic holiday, ideal if you want to travel alone and spend some time focusing on yourself, amusing if you are traveling with your friends and interesting if you are a fashion lover. Interesting because Milan wins the battle on the fashion ground and definitely holds the crown as one of the fashion capitals of the world, but Rome has its own fashion. I would say that it could be defined more as charm. Of course, if you are strolling around the city you won’t see people walking around in tracksuits but still wearing glam clothes as only Italians can do. However, it also depends a lot on the neighborhoods you find yourself in but the beauty of Rome is exactly this. Unlikely Milan where most of the places are fashionable glam, Rome will offer you a great variety of places depending on your own style, on what you like the most. All linked by a unique feeling that only the eternal city is able to give you.

e d i u G n o i R O M E h s a F to A Ludovica Tronci

VIA CONDOTTI AND VIA DEL BABUINO

VIA DEL CORSO

This street, long and narrow, is at the heart of the city. Always packed by both tourists and locals, it will lead you from Piazza Venezia to Piazza di Spagna, stopping by the elegant Galleria Alberto Sordi, a great place where to shop and take an happy hour. On the way you will see how big fashion houses names, like Fendi, mingle with more high street stores like Zara or H&M and small boutiques. 116

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If you are a shopaholic then this is the place to be. You will lose your mind just by turning around and looking at all the Prada’s and Dior’s window displays. All the names of the best fashion houses in the whole world can be found in these two streets: from Tiffany’s jewelry to Chanel’s boutique. Impossible not to go, even if you are out of budget: strolling around these two streets is a pleasure for the eyes. P.S. if you want to spot any celebs, you are in the right place!

Rome is a city that is definitely worth visiting and unlike what many people say it is not only for history lovers. Also, don’t think that going shopping in Rome might be a waste of time: trust me, you will be sightseeing a lot and will be able to spot many of the best attractions right while choosing your next pair of shoes. It is one of the many amazing characteristics of this unique city!

CAMPO DE’ FIO

PORTA PORTES

ORI

TRASTEVERE MONTI

Celebrated as the hipster neighborhood, Monti is one of the coolest places where to hang out since it perfectly mixes modernity and history. Here is where you can find the best vintage markets like the Mercato Monti, which every Sunday brings together 35 vendors. You will find everything: from jewelry to handmade glasses to vintage Polaroid cameras. The market is led by a boutique owner, Fabrizio Marini, and Ornella Cicchetti. Bear in mind that you can also find new and emerging fashion designersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; pieces! Once you are done with the shopping, stop by one of the many cafes or if you want a snack the Italian way head to The Antico Forno Ai Serpenti. Indeed, this bakery is a modern space where you can find all the best traditional Italian treats!

Trastevere is where magic happens. And you will probably truly understand what I mean only once you go there and see it yourself. Located in between the many bridges and along the river Tevere, this place looks like it has been taken out from a fairytale. Summer is the best season to go if you want to enjoy the many restaurants, street food, cafes, bars and shopping. Yes, shopping too! Indeed, along the river you can find hundreds of stands that sell everything from jewelry to clothing to books to children toys.

VIA COLA DI RIENZO

Perfect for a romantic night out as well as for a night with your friends, Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori is one of the places where the Roman youths like to hang out. Here you can find plenty of restaurants and also really nice bars that all have tables outside in the plaza during summer. Here you will enjoy a lovely night out, have the chance to meet some locals, hang at a cool and glam bar and have your memories printed on a Polaroid pic taken by the many street-nonprofessional photographers that walk around the area.

SE If you are more of a vintage market kind of person and you always look out for the best deals in town, then take a day off to go to the famous flea market of Porta Portese. This place has inspired many Italian singers, writers and movie directors. The market opens every Sunday from 6am to 14pm and the best times to go there are right the opening and closing time. During rush hours instead, around 11-12 am, there are many pickpockets and thieves around so keep your eyes wide open.

This street in the Prati neighborhood is one of the areas where Romans usually shop. The types of shops you can find are similar to the ones in Via del Corso: from popular fashion brands, like Benetton or Brandy, to small department stores. Plus, there are also some stands that sell vintage and some ethnic clothing. One of the plus sides of shopping here is that you will avoid the crazy tourists crowds that usually conquers Via del Corso.

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goals to reach. Whilst playing, it was fun. I laser cut jewellery and became a very welcome guest at parties. You tested your idea on parties? To see whether people wanted it or not? It was still fun for me, to build things on my own. I started to wear it and people liked it. Then I thought, laser cutting is not enough, let’s bring in technology. I studied a course in building electrical circuits. We made an electronic orchestra of dismantled toys as a final presentation. I took a huge plush rabbit and put light diodes on it, sparkling to the rhythm of the music. That is how my obsession of LEDs started. In jewellery we use diamonds. Why? Because they are sparkling, shining and have beautiful colours. We can do it with LEDs too. So I started to design the first necklace. This necklace is still our bestseller. I really like art deco, from the twenties, because of its symmetry. It is also based on Egyptian arts. Symmetric things appear to us as beautiful. I did an apprenticeship of photography before going to university. Like Steve Jobs with calligraphy?

Elektrocouture Lisa, please explain how Elektrocouture was born. Elektrocouture was born out of frustration. There was no product on the market for women, as all the tech gadgets were for men. Look at what you can get for your husband or boyfriend for Valentine’s Day, all the cool gadgets. But what is happening for women? So I started to research. The use of electronics will boom like crazy in the next years and more than 50% of the market is women. There is not much out there for them. Google Glasses look shitty and were made for boys who grew up with Star Wars. It is also why FitBit started to hide in jewellery, to make it look better. There was always technology coming first, then design. But if you put lipstick on a pig, it is still a pig. Two years ago, me being in my thirties, experienced, independent and self confident enough to start to voice my opinion, I discovered the FabLab. FabLab enabled me to start doing. The people at FabLab did not say ‘you are crazy’ or ‘what are you doing?’ They said ‘this is cool, let us help you.’ I learned a lot, like laser cutting. I grew up with craftsmen in my family my dad and grandfather were carpenters. I would have been a carpenter if the Internet had not happened. Also, Berlin has an attitude of “everything goes”. In Berlin everyone wants to turn his hobby into business. So it is not like the Old-German attitude to find a safe job. Yes, like a job for 50 years. So I started to work. In the beginning I thought I was only doing it for myself- I still had a job and enjoyed it. After being an intrapreneur for 10 years, I was working 4 days a week and left with only one day to play. I was impatient, frustrated- ask my husband. When I played, it was a healing process. In business, you have schedules and

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In the 1920s, Cartier was super innovative with jewellery, as they used great shapes, but you couldn’t buy or afford them. So I did an art deco punk version, replacing diamonds with LEDs and using acrylics. Like doing a new 1920s in Berlin with laser technology and LEDs. This is it how it started. When did you discover that the idea was so far ahead that it could carry you as a company? I was wearing a necklace and everybody was asking where to get one. It was a prototype, with wires on the backside. I kept developing and changing and changing. Finally it got to a point where I was happy. Well, I am never happy, ask my husband, poor guy. He has strong nerves as he has two companies on his own. He said, go for it. He gave me the support I needed. He is an Australian with a positive attitude. I speak a lot and listen a lot. Thanks to conversations I found out you can hack knitting machines and knit designs. It was awesome. So we did our scarves then. And I wanted to put light into them. It was like refining the mission. You have to have a mission in a sentence, like 140 characters so people can tweet about it. So in one of these conversations the sentence came: WE MAKE LIGHT WEAREABLE. It was a process of redefining, talking about it and researching. It was then that we had our second product: glowing scarves. I see the world like an entrepreneur. I see the world full of opportunities. I also see a world full of lights and symmetry, like I can put a LED into it and make it glow. Then I got this good feeling. When you’re in your 30’s, you learn to listen more to your feelings and your experiences. That good feeling says “You have to do it now! You have to do it now!” I was also so passionate about it. I was not scared at all. It was like jumping off a cliff. I am not afraid; I want to fly. I put my whole savings into it. To make it a business, we needed to sell from the beginning. I left my job in May and in July was Berlin Fashion Week with fashion tech, where I met investors. Combine technology like laser cutters or 3D printers with fashion, and you can create a whole new business. The next big step is making technology wearable in your garments and not like a gadget. I want to make it normal for people to wear technology but in a non-creepy way. I don’t want my dress to talk to me and to tell me what I have to do. It’s the other way around. The technology just has to learn to be a little more empathetic towards the feelings of normal people. Google Glasses failed because it made you look like a bloody robot. They were so arrogant as they thought just build it and people will come. Fashion is to be disrupted but not

so easily like it was with the music and hospitality industries. You have to do it with nature, not against it. I want to use technology in a way that it is not monitoring me. Everything is monitoring me. We are digitally naked. Fashion should protect you. It should enhance your appearance and your feelings. It is supposed to make you feel better and stronger. It also tells a story and it tells your personality. Fashion helps you to disappear when you want to and to stand out when you want to. That is the way technology should also be. We call it fashion technology; it is fashion and technology standing together. I am a creator, I put people together and I am a translator. I come from both industries and I live and breathe both of them, so for me it is easy to bring them together. I make it happen because in the end it is what counts. Everybody can put a LED into a sweater but there is so much more. To make it for the mass market you have to think of other things, like how to make it washable. Until now it was like joining Hells Angels. You wear a jacket but you cannot wash it because you are apart of the club. I want it to be normal; I do not want it to be like a robot. In a normal world you have to make it a part of your environment, otherwise it will never make it mainstream. What do you want to reach with Elektrocouture? After the collection is also before the collection. So we are already working on a new collection. I want to work with more designers, with bigger brands. My biggest dream would to get 3M and Burberry together. Wouldn’t it be awesome? Together with us organising everything, they could rock everything. True success comes only from someone who makes decisions, takes responsibility and makes things happen. It is entrepreneurship. Sometimes, they even make wrong decisions. It is a part of the way. Failure is a part of the process. I have a big advantage; nobody can tell me how to do things as no one has it done before. Sometimes, in dark moments it is like ‘aaaahhh, nobody can help me.’ I have lived long enough in Australia to try to see the positives. With Elektrocouture I have this idea of going to a museum, a gallery or just seeing a poster. You really like the picture or really like the colour and you can load it to your garment and make your patterns. I want to make it with display technology and light. I know we are totally underestimated. There are many arrogant guys saying ‘yeah, it glows.’ I am totally fine with it. We are building an ecosystem in the background. On the other hand, light is very pretty and emotional. It triggers emotions in your brain. Since when is it a bad thing to do a nice product? Light is very smart; these days data transfer is made by light, like light-fi, internet connection trough light. I like this idea of turning my clothes into any colour I want to. Or touching points to exchange colours. If you can exchange colours, you can also exchange information- this is technology. Technology is not about measuring pulse, as this is boring. Making things normal, that is the difficulty. We are creating one industry by combining two different industries. I have to educate people, to build a complete manufacturing system. People do not think about jewellery like acrylics with LEDs. We have to do prototypes and show them to people. It is hard to explain, even by showing pictures. You have to show a prototype.

What would you advise someone who wants to start in the fashion tech business? To be interdisciplinary in your work. Fashion designers are trained to be very closed up, because there would be someone to take away their ideas. They should be open, learn from other industries. Like in FabLab, everything is open, because it is the way you can be innovative. So, be open and talk with other professions. Expose yourself to so many other things if possible. Try different techniques, play around and make mistakes. Turn those mistakes into features. Also, play and work with other people. Everything starts with your mindset. Do not worry about money as it comes by itself. Be smart and do not be stupid. Play, play, play. Learn to see opportunities. There is nothing like luck, it is always where opportunities meet preparation. It is like a sport. You train 364 days a year to run for 10 seconds. These 10 seconds are when a customer or an investor comes in and you have to be ready. You have to do your 10-second sprint everyday, multiple times. It means you have to be trained. Train your muscles. Spend your time researching, strategizing and thinking, and do not feel guilty about it. Thinking for some hours is your job. Make a strategy and execute it.

If you build prototypes and educate people first, it is usually cost-intensive. What is your business model now? How do you finance everything? I turned education into a money making machine. It is marketing but also a cost. I speak at events, do workshops to make money and finance prototypes. We want to be bespoke, to build the brand. Light attracts attention. We also do not deliver our product with a ten-page manual.

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Hussain Chalayan: BOUNDARY DEFYING DESIGN From coFFee tables that morph seamlessly into many tiered skirts, to dresses that exude sharp lasers oF red light; when it comes to innovation and experimentation in design hussain chalayan is undeniably one oF the best. Sarah Scott

Born in Cyprus in 1970, Chalayan was exposed to instability from an early age, as conflicts between the Turkish and Greek authorities saw the island community divided. This early experience perhaps exciting the motifs of cultural identity, migration and dislocation present in his work. In 1978 the family chose to emigrate to Britain following the Turkish invasion of Cyprus. It was here that Chalayan’s interest in design flourished. He went onto learn Fashion and Design at Warwickshire school, before moving almost inevitably to study Fashion Design at Central St Martins. Chalayan states that his interest in fashion lies in a fear of boredom and the need to create a more interesting world around him; “I see myself as a storyteller…someone who creates worlds, and then everything in that world is related. The sound, the choreography and the clothes.” It was at St Martins that Chalayan’s inventive and fearless talent was first recognised, his graduate collection The Tangent Flows creating waves in the fashion industry. While other designers focused on a clean, minimalist style Chalayan’s collection was made up of decomposed silk dresses buried for months in the ground. This theme grandly encompassing not only death and decay but also resurrection, as the clothes were unearthed and brought to life for his show. Fittingly, it was this collection that brought his career to life. The striking garments were purchased by London fashion retailer Browns- to feature in their window display- effectively launching Chalayan as a designer. From here Chalayan’s success has only increased, and since founding his own label in 1994 he has twice been named British Designer of the Year. The Tangent Flows 1993 Grad Collection Utterly opposing the sterility of minimalism, the dresses of the so-called buried collection are deeply textured- resembling a clay or earthen wall rather than fabric. The layers physically present in the fabric eloquently reveal Chalayan’s obsession with process in his design, reflecting his role as a storyteller. Chalayan’s shows are infamously dramatic- bordering on performance art- as he tells a story through his collections. Perhaps the most famous of these is the AW2000 “living room” show. Models plainly clad in grey shift dresses stride out onto a catwalk set up as a living room, complete with three piece suite, television and coffee table. The audience holds its breath in anticipation as one by one the models calmly, almost mechanically strip off and reverse the chair covers to reveal pinafore-like, structural garments broken up by blocks of colour. The importance of process revealed to the audience through the systematic preparing and then putting on of the clothes. Perhaps the most striking event of this show however is the famous table skirt. Stepping into the centre of the coffee table the model pulls it up around her, wooden tiers cascading down in a graduated wedding cake-like skirt. Not only does this collection highlight Chalayan’s interest in transformation and narrative; but this work was significant in a wider sense. Revealing to the world the extent of fashion’s potential to transcend boundaries; drawing on architecture, interior design and engineering. AW 2000 Chalayan applies an architect’s mind-set in a number of ways. Perhaps most obviously he takes inspiration from famous architectural forms- the table dress reminding me strikingly of Egyptian pyramids or ancient Inca temples. He also utilises an architect’s toolkit- many designs created using wood, plastic and wire- in addition to a heightened awareness of the interaction of space and the body. It has been remarked that Chalayan’s designs are inhabited rather than worn. A good example of this is the S/S 2009 collection Intertia that explored the importance of speed to modern society; garments flying backwards as if pulled back by their own momentum, seemingly independent from the wearer. SS/2009 A/W95 Indeed, perhaps what is so inspiring about Chalayan is that, in contrast to other designers; his work demonstrates true structural and conceptual innovation rather than simply controversial ‘headline-grabbing’ fashion. With his fervent curiosity to explore the extremities of what fashion can be, it should come as no surprise that this most boundary defying designer has recently branched out to present his first dance production, opening in October 2015. Knowing what we do about Chalayan’s ability to produce the unimaginable in a society all but resigned to the phrase “originality is dead”, I feel sure we shall all be eagerly awaiting what this next project will bring!

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