Mess mag (version 2) by Dominika Perek

Mess Magazine

Editors letter

Second issue of Mess Magazine was such a big challenge for the whole team. The pressure has risen after the amazing reviews of our readers and fashion industry proffesionals. Now, our team is much bigger then two months ago and it is expanding every day to keep updating Mess Magazine’s website (messmag.com) with latest trends, news or photo shoots. Our vision has not changed at all – we want to promote talented people and share fashion awareness, both on magazine and website. It seems like finally we have a great oppurtinity to do so. The bigger MM’s coverage, the better development we can gain. Smaller and bigger things keep us motivated and determined to still do what we love. Apart from bigger successes such as visit from Alexander McQueen’s offical crew member or post liking from Anja Rubik, the most important thing for us is providing great content that will attract more fashion lovers. We have struggled with a couple of technical issues that forced us to delay the premiere of second issue for a week. Some obstacles are needed to understand more and upgrade the level of magazine. In issue three, you will be able to see, dear reader, few differences that will change the whole magazine layout for good. New logo, more interviews and different aethetic approach are just the beginning of upcoming changes. One of the things that will make MM stands out from the crowd are double covers for each issue. First cover for the pre-order option and the second one for full magazine preview. Mess Magazine will officially become a source of great photography that will capture fashion and art as one. Fashion industry is growing and expanding all the time so it is important to look back and find little things that have influenced media and society so badly that actually became the cult ones. By writing about fashion history, epic photo shoots, iconic models or any other important fashion things, we can make sure our readers will find what they are looking for – the great inspirations. We spread the word about emerging fashion designers, but we are faithful to industry biggest names as well. We think that anyone can change the history if has enough courage to have unique vision and willingness to change unchanged. That’s why we let young writers and artists show their work on Mess Magazine. Together we can change the main concept of publishing fashion magazines and let history begins now.

Dominika Perek 2

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Contributors

Mess Team

We cannot count the people that have helped us to release this issue! Thank you for your commitment, work and passion! Without you this issue wouldn’t be so good!

#MessMustGoOn! Photographers and their teams: Phot. Jana Van de Boldt Model Jula @BrodyBookings Hair&MUAKarina Berg Assistant Carlos Mideros Phot. Juan Carlos Verona Stylist Emma Pullbrook MUA Elizabeth Hseigh Nails Fatima Janjua Model Serafima Kobzeva @Storm Models Stylist Alexi Kotkowska Hair JC MUA Keiko Nakamura Model: Dasha Zharova @Storm Models Assistant Eric Mouroux Phot. Olivier Chatard Aria Crescendo Stylist Chelsea Von Mach MUA Camille Marie Clark Hair Julien Whaley Phot. Weronika Kaźmierczak Hair Bartek Osowczyk MUA Karina Witkowska Fashion designer Milena Lidia Sobierajska Sara @NEW AGE MODELS, Zuza @AS Management Assistant Monika Stusio fot. Marcin Ziembiński models. Kamil i Anna/Orange mua. Elizabeta von Trier

hair. Ewelina Frącek styl. Katarzyna Kryszk clothes. Sylwia Karim, Imperial Store help. Olwia Dębińska Phot. Karol Trębula Models/Dominika&Daniel from Mess Magazine Hair Matt Bech MUA Karolina Łata Phot. Antonio de Lucci/Kristin Cofer Stylist Dexter Simmons Models/ Alexis Hutt/Natalia Brown HMU: Dexter Simmons+Lukas Plato Shoe Design: Dexter Simmons Model: Kristina Schroeder Photograper Katarzyna Czerniak Model: Natalia Musiał / MLStudio Model Management Make up: Klaudia Kaminska Stylist: Agnieszka Nowicka Designer: Zhenia/ Yevgeniya Yurkevicha / ASP Assistant: Dominika Figlarek Film: Agnieszka Borowiak Photographer: Kay Shea Stylist/Jewelry design: Tiffany Rae Makeup/Hair: Krystal Catania Model: Lauran Christoff 3

Thanks to: Kasia Piersa Daniel Matejczyk Gracjan Pleskaczewski Mollie Reeves Shiv Mistry Stephanie Jardine Katie Jagielnicka Ewelina Dymek Ellen Boardman Ella Turner Karis Levy Amber Davies David Vassou Christopher Maul Megan Meimoun Manuela Calascibetta Charlotte Pratt Hayley Nyman Emily Golding Lily Earl Natalie Walsch Yune Hoe Meg Moore Mameasa Wilmot Katie Chubb Laura Forrest

Special Thanks London Fashion Week Council Cracow Fashion Week Fashion Boulevard Events Lady CPR Felicities PR Forward PR Pro Photography Ajlon Management Dawanda Poland FashionFreax.net SaleServant.com Orange Models AS Management Storm Models Brooke Bookings New Age Models Mess Magazine

Styling: Jana van de Boldt Model: Jula ( BrodyBookings) Hair & Make-up: Karina Berg

Wig by Toptress Per端cken Postproduction: Carlos Mideros

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Fusion Polo Maxi Dress & Fusion Cropped Polo: Hermione Flynn Jewelry: BISJOUX

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Dress: Sammler Berlin Jewelry: BISJOUX

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Sammler Berlin Pastell Dress: Bagaz Long Batik Dress:

Necklace: BISJOUX

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Sammler Berlin Minidress: Sammler Berlin

Long Dress:

Earrings: BISJOUX

Rings:

Ele Misko

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Vest & Top : Sammler Berlin Bracelets & Earring: BISJOUX

Ele Misko Shoes: Stylist Own Rings:

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Leather Jacket: Ring:

Ele Misko

Muubaa 12

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Vest & Top : Sammler Berlin Bracelets & Earring: BISJOUX

Ele Misko Mess Magazine Shoes: Stylist Own Rings:

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Sammler Berlin Dress: Bagaz Tunica Jumpsuit: Hermione Flynn Bracelet: Moxham Jacket :

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Waistcoat CHANEL from FOUND & VISION Skirt VALENTINO from FOUND & VISION Jacket VINTAGE from FOUND &VISION Bra MARC JACOBS Bag, necklace & gloves VINTAGE Cuffs & silver bracelet H&M

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Jacket JAEGER LONDON Jumper H&M Necklace ALEXIS BITTAR Cuffs H&M Skirt TOPSHOP

Photography JUAN CARLOS VERONA www. jcverona.com Stylist ALEXI KOTKOWSKA Make up KEIKO Hair by JC using Bumble and bumble 19 Mess Magazine Nails JEN MCCOLL www.jenmccoll.com

Leather top ZARA Necklace VINTAGE Cuffs H&M Tweed skirt SORCHA O’RAGHALLAIGH

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Jacket JAEGER LONDON Jumper H&M Necklace ALEXIS BITTAR Cuffs H&M Skirt TOPSHOP

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Jacket JAEGER LONDON Jumper H&M Necklace ALEXIS BITTAR Cuffs H&M Skirt TOPSHOP

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Leather top ZARA Necklace VINTAGE Cuffs H&M Tweed skirt SORCHA O’RAGHALLAIGH

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Leather top ZARA Necklace VINTAGE Cuffs H&M Tweed skirt SORCHA O’RAGHALLAIGH

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Waistcoat CHANEL from FOUND & VISION Skirt VALENTINO from FOUND & VISION Jacket VINTAGE from FOUND &VISION Bra MARC JACOBS Bag, necklace & gloves VINTAGE Cuffs & silver bracelet H&M

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Waistcoat CHANEL from FOUND & VISION Skirt VALENTINO from FOUND & VISION Jacket VINTAGE from FOUND &VISION Bra MARC JACOBS Bag, necklace & gloves VINTAGE Cuffs & silver bracelet H&M

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Waistcoat CHANEL from FOUND & VISION Skirt VALENTINO from FOUND & VISION Jacket VINTAGE from FOUND &VISION Bra MARC JACOBS Bag, necklace & gloves VINTAGE Cuffs & silver bracelet H&M

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LBD JAEGER LONDON Jacket TOPSHOP Chain Vintage Belt H&M

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LBD JAEGER LONDON Jacket TOPSHOP Chain Vintage Belt H&M

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CREDITS. THE LIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY Juan Carlos Verona www.jcverona.com STYLING Emma Pulbrook MAKE UP Elizabeth Hsieh NAILS Fatima Janjua HAIR Jc using Bumble and Bumble MODEL Serafima Kobzevi @Storm Models London HANDBAG: ALexander Wang

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DRESS: Jean Paul Gaultier SHOES: Charlotte Olympia

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DRESS: Jean Paul Gaultier SHOES: Charlotte Olympia BANGLE: Kenzo

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TOP: Equipment SKIRT: MM6 by Mason Martin Margiela SHORTS: Hexa

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TOP: Equipment SKIRT: MM6 by Mason Martin Margiela SHORTS: Hexa SOCKS: Item by M6 SHOES: Charlotte Olympia

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SHIRT: Jean Pierre Braganza TOP: MM6 Maison Martin Margiela SHORTS: Hexa SOCKS: M6 SHOES: Charlotte Olympia

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SHIRT & TROUSER: Holly Fulton T-SHIRT: MM6 Maison Martin Margiela SHOES: Chie Mihara

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TOP: Anne SoFie Madson TROUSERS: Pleats Please by Issey Miyake BANGLE: Kenzo & Fashion Luxx SHOES: Marlene Oddershede Bach

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JACKET: Amaya Arzuaga LEGGINGS: Maison Martin Margiela SHOES: Jerome.C Rousseau BRACEMET: Phillippe Audibert

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T-SHIRT: Holly Fulton BANGLE: Kenzo TROUSERS: Marc Cain SHOES: Chie Mihara

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TOP: Emma Cooke SKIRT: Erdem SHOES: Jerome.C Rousseau

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JACKET: ALexander Mcqueen TROUSERS: Marc Cain SHOES: Charlotte Olympia

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DRESS: Oscar De La renta CARDIGAN: Issa SHOES: Jean Pierre Braganza BANGLE: Pebble London

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JUMPER: Markus Lupfer SHORTS: Alexander Mcqueen SHOES: Charlotte Olympia

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Paris Fashion Week 14’

La crème de la crème The playful and the elegant – here are the best five catwalk shows presented at Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014 and how they fell into one or the other category. Miu Miu Miuccia is back to her playful roots! Everything at this show was girly, fresh and coated in transparent plastic. This is where the little-girl look met weird. Baby blue, pink and yellow ski jackets were unexpectedly paired with spiky metallic pink sandals, 1960s tailoring with pointy plastic green booties (honestly), huge shearling coats on bare legs and cute, uhm… bubblegum pink hand-knitted sweaters. A glorious melting pot of metallic quilting, plastic everything and crystal embellishments. This collection is certainly cute, sparkly and happy-go-lucky, and isn’t that what you want to be, too?

stocked with real products of all sorts – all branded, naturellement. Just imagine eau de Chanel, Chanel ‘Coco’ (yep, they went there), spades, doormats and hammers.

Chanel Who knew you could fit a luxurious hypermarket inside the Grand Palais? And the shelves were

Chanel didn’t follow the returning trend of signing garments with logos. No need: the consumerism was represented in the form of

As anticipated by the setting, this was another fun and playful collection. Models did their shopping in sporty-luxe-trashy general attire: slim-fit track pants and metallic trousers, trainers, crop tops and bouclé overcoats. The garments had the impeccable Chanel standards, albeit with comfort and modernity in mind. Lagerfeld paired the brand codes of chains and pearls with modern cuts, and what a great job he has done.

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pieces, skirts with matching sharp capes and double faced cashmere. Chiuri and Piccioli included their exquisitely crafted pieces they are famous for: embroidered birds on heavy blue fabrics harked back to the medieval underlying theme. Every piece exuded the trademark graceful look that only Valentino can deliver.

the supermarket and anyway, their clothes are already recognisable. Valentino After six years as designers of this brand, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are still faithful to their austere Medieval princess looks but also introduced zappy prints. This could be considered the transitional show between playful and elegant: gorgeous, elegant pieces, clean lines with a mixture of semi-structured A-line dresses.

ChloĂŠ Feminine clothes in subtle tones seemed to be the key. Dust pink, grey, mauve and off white were all in the palette. A beige padded leather overcoat and a white super sized biker lead the big-volume look. The bags were carried under the arm despite having straps â&#x20AC;&#x201C; something that will be dominant everywhere on the high street soon. Other noticeable reoccurring features were small

Their classic round-toed block heeled ankle straps were stamped with the circle and scallop prints also found on coats and skirts. Bright crimson patterns made an appearance on the catwalk and followed baby-doll dresses and skater skirts. These were matched with more streamlined 45

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its match in Christophe Lemaire. The designer has finally redefined Hermès as the brand it should be – understated, luxurious and proud of its exotic inspirations. Thin trousers worn under wrap skirts were a thing, along with richly detailed silk prints. Winter menswear-inspired tailoring included wide-legged trouser suits and structured, streamlined oversized coats. Attention was all drawn to the luxury craftsmanship that characterises the brand, and what better way to end the most classic Fashion Week of them all – Paris.

gold accents everywhere which granted a sophisticated feel, while draping and irregular hems kept this clean look interesting. Ankle boots were also ubiquitous, but with a twist: a higher front which partially covered the ankle. Hermès Last but not least, this French giant wrapped the season, closing the week on a highly elegant note. After looking for a designer that would really get this brand and its tricky-to-pair-on-catwalk printed scarves, Hermès has finally found

By Manuela Calascibetta

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LFW 14’

Day two and three On the second day of London Fashion Week, Fashion Finest hosted its seventh season as a platform for new talent to showcase their work off schedule. The first 2pm showing at the Grand Connaught Rooms saw collections by José Hendo, House of Caramel Jones, Wombat Leather and PASYA Wearable Art. The show kicked off with a care for the environment narrative before unveiling Radical Award Design winner, José Hendo’s ethical conscious collection. The 3Rs were a running theme - ‘reuse’, ‘reduce’ ‘recycle’ boldly printed in black or bright orange across garments. Next, the London sister duo behind House of Caramel Jones featured their signature elegant back cut outs, v-shaped necklines and quirky headpieces. A consistent colour palette consisting of milky cream white, olive green, black and red on silk gave rise to a line of timeless wearable sophistication. The debut runway by Wombat Leather was a rugged ensemble of Australian-inspired leather bush hats and luxury leather bags. To end the set was PASYA Wearable Art by Asia Prusinowska. A visual treat, the works of art transformed from luxury wool fibres and alluring reflections of romantic imagination materialized into shawls and dresses. This was followed by the vibrant ‘UNA VIDA BIEN VIVIDA’ (A Life Well Lived) A/W 2014 Collection by Ethologie’s Jasper Garvida at The Bloomsbury Hotel.

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Whisking the audience away to Seville, Spain, Garvida drew inspiration from Georges Bizet’s opera – Carmen, a story of a gypsy girl who falls in love with a bullfighter, to the anguish of a smitten soldier from her past who once let her escape to his own detriment. As perhaps expected from a collection based on a tale of fearless passion between young lovers, the Pilipino designer departs from his standard monochrome palette and finds an infatuating balance between the classic Mediterranean blue and sensual red as he takes a modern spin on traditional costumes and the prominent 19th century blue hand printed tiles. The evening saw a return to the Grand Connaught Rooms where Fashion Finest London showcased three fantastic up and coming ready-to-wear collections by Miss Magou, J’QLYN and Exclusively Yours. First up was Miss Magou‘s 2014 Silk Road Collection, which boasted colourful prints and textiles. Models channeled vacation vibes in their sunglasses, the flowy kaftans, tunics and dresses ideal for a beach or cruise holiday. Semi-concealed were vibrant bikinis and baroque patterned one-piece bathing suits. Each look matched with a headscarf to compliment the outfit, the collection was bursting with abundant playful energy. The rookie J’QLYN collection took it up a notch in evening wear with a contemporary twist. The details were remarkable, ranging from the

unexpected back details of the first gown to the texture of the skirts and capes. Colour blocking added a hint of eccentricity, as did the checkered and scarf print patterns. Lacey gloves, lace tops, flowers in the hair and mysterious masquerade masks – romance dominated the stage as Exclusively Yours took over. Day three featured a Little Shilpa Presentation at the Freemason Hall, the second of the eponymous label by Mumbai born milliner and accessory designer Shilpa Chavan through Fashion Scout. Known not to shy away from toying with the augmented vision of reality, the talent who can include Lady Gaga as an avid fan, wowed with a black noir alternative spectrum of fantasy. Six stoic doll-like models conveyed Maleficient-like vibes in a dimly lit room as haunting clips were projected onto the screen behind. Their bodies theatrically clothed, art meets fashion in a dramatic display of gothic overtones. Headpieces are adorned with what resembles crow feathers, curtain beads and fine lace flowers en masse. Refreshing, daring and modern, it is no wonder that London Fashion Week is known for sparking innovation and attracting creative talent. Written by: I Yune Hoe

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Fashion's Finest

15th February 14:00 Renown for discovering new talent, this marks Fashions Finest’s seventh season as a platform for designers to showcase their work off schedule during London Fashion Week. The first 2pm showing on day one at the Grand Connaught Rooms saw collections by José Hendo, House of Caramel Jones, Wombat Leather and PASYA Wearable Art. The show kicked off with a care for the environment narrative before unveiling José Hendo’s collection. The 3Rs were a running theme in the statement delivering urban renewal wears - ‘reuse’, ‘reduce’ ‘recycle’ boldly printed in black or bright orange across garments. ‘Sustainable by Design’ is the way forward in these cleverly cut eco-materials made from simplified production processes that consciously seek to raise awareness on environmental impact in our daily lives. Buttons and zips are out of sight as the ethical conscience Radical Award Design winner sends a thought-provoking message through her collection. ‘The consumerist lifestyle of recent years is to blame for the environmental damage’ tweets José Hendo, ‘that’s why the 3rs reduce reuse recycle are the future’. dresses with modern twists, House of Caramel Jones featured their signature elegant back cut outs, v-shaped necklines and quirky headpieces. Behind the new women’s luxury British fashion label founded in October 2012, are

London sisters Sandra and Melanie. A consistent colour palette consisting of milky cream white, olive green, black and red on silk gave rise to a line of timeless wearable sophistication. Wombat Leather showcased its Australian-inspired leather bush hats and luxury leather bags at London Fashion Week for the first time. Luxury rugged designs to pull off more than the Indiana Jones look, the hats are perfect for days out under the sun, whilst the satchels and handbags have a sturdy quality about them that would look great for business or casual use. The debut runway was wickedly stylish for leather lovers. The last of the first set this season was PASYA Wearable Art. Lorde’s hit track Royals played in the background as the audience marveled at the visual treat in49 aesthetics.

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In spite of the delicate lace details, there was a certain strength in the quiet confidence portrayed by the models as the shawls fell off shoulders to bring to light exquisite details and one (Tarcha Ann Josephine Peters) walked in a daring shimmering translucent full body dress. Works of art transformed from luxury wool fibres, the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique one of a kind inventions are an alluring reflection of romantic imagination and memories. Asia Prusinowska, a conceptual designer and textile artist notably bases her self-expressive pieces on psychology, the human body, emotions and original textile work. A newly launched label based in Cambridge, accessories, bags, headwear and jewellery from the label, can currently be purchased online although rumour has it that a store will be coming soon! 50

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Fashions Finest 19:00

15th February

The final evening show on the first of two days of the Fashions Finest London Fashion Show at the Grand Connaught Rooms showcased three fantastic up and coming readyto-wear collections by Miss Magou, J'QLYN and Exclusively Yours. First up was Miss Magou‘s 2014 Silk Road Collection, which boasted colourful prints and textiles. Models channeled vacation vibes in their sunglasses, the flowy kaftans, tunics and dresses ideal for a beach or cruise holiday. Semi-concealed were vibrant bikinis and baroque patterned one-piece bathing suits. Each look matched with a headscarf to compliment the outfit, the collection bursting with abundant playful energy. It is not hard to see Hanan Magou’s influence from her travels and cultural ventures. Relaxed, comfortable and stylish, the internationally sourced materials project immaculate authenticity. Based outside London, the talented luxury Kaftan designer has even traveled across waters showcasing her collections in Dubai, Paris and London.

Perfume-scented paper hearts were strategically placed and the classical Rouge et Noir echoed the room as Exclusively Yours took the stage. The amorous red and black looks took us two sleeps back to Valentine’s Day. Lacey gloves, lace tops, flowers in the hair and mysterious masquerade masks, not quite sure if the bridal looks were quite to our taste but it was certainly an interesting switch up! The designer herself certainly looked like a darling in red and black herself. Written by I Yune Hoe

The rookie J’QLYN collection takes it up a notch in evening wear with a contemporary twist. The details were remarkable, ranging from the unexpected back details of the first gown to the texture of the skirts and capes. Colour blocking added a hint of eccentricity, as did the checkered and scarf print patterns. A few looks in particular really stand to appeal to the public. By Yune Hoe 51

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MFW 2014

Set

in the timelessly stylish Italian city of Milan, Fashion Week 2014 hit the ground running with beautiful sets from the likes of Dolce & Gabbana, live performances (think Rita Ora at Philipp Plein) and, of course, the freshest new designs from labels we love.

Milan showcased everything extravagant from the garish brights at Moschino’s fast food inspired collection, to the heavily embellished classic luxe theme at D&G. MFW showed us many things but the one that especially jumps to mind is that focusing an entire collection à la Giorgio Armani on one colour, is a superb idea. The A/W 2014 collection at Armani was focused entirely around colour. Armani was focused around lime green and grey. You could be forgiven in thinking that grey was a boring colour because the show at MFW was the epitome of cool: The colour of choice was deliberately a bland one as the collection aimed to prove that anything in any colour can be ultra glamorous once given the Armani treatment.

The girls walked in pairs, strutting in sassy office-wear chic and finished with long waved hair and natural makeup, apart from gloriously defined brows, showing that grey is the new black- all to a heady mix of Macy Gray and Queen. MFW was awash with simplicity and tailoring. With the deliciously dainty Bottaga Veneta dresses, the masculine tailored coats at Jil Sander and the delectable pastels at Gucci’s collection- it is a crime to imply that plain is boring. A contrast to the simple collections, labels such as Fausto Puglisi and Moschino brought the colour with a shouty retro edge. The show at Fausto Puglisi showed the crowds how to mix and match with bright, bold patterns whilst Moschino took on a more ‘loud and proud’ attitude towards colour. After the departure of Rosella Jardini, Moschino was in the hands of the American designer Jeremy Scott, Scott nosedived into the world of pop culture and fast food to create a collection full of humour, wit and style. Crowds at MFW watched in amazement as models dressed as SpongeBob SquarePants, McDonald’s servers, a packet of biscuits and a Hershey bar swaggered down the catwalk in true Mochino chic. It is clear that many designers have channelled a retro appeal at Milan, notably the

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70’s theme with a nod towards the travelling nomad at Etro, and the 90’s theme at Moschino. Coats were heavily featured, being an Autumn/Winter collection, with a variety of styles and cuts. Gabriele Colangelo’s impressive selection of simple designs in black, white and grey contrasted effortlessly with Prada’s rich wealth of colour and tone; not to mention the black-on-black at Fendi. Overall, it is fair to say that MFW displayed a wide range of looks from a diverse list of labels to capture the essence of autumn/ winter style. So many trends emerged from MFW 2014 that it is a

challenge to pinpoint one. Every piece at MFW has demonstrated a signature style and an overwhelming use of neutral bluegreys and pastels ensure that there is no room for gloomy this Autumn/Winter.

By Amber Davies

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Prabal Gurung

Written by Loo Loo Rose

Drawings by Eweline Dyme 54

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The show began with slightly futuristic Winter-wear coloured in cold greys, silvers and whites with models sporting jumpers featuring patterned wool inspired details. Prabal juxtaposed the more traditional oversized Winter-wear jumper with a unique design and intriguing shape. His models were carefully selected, being auburn and brunette-haired in order to set off the range of fantastic autumn colours that were to come. The collection took a few Wintery looks to warm up into the Autumn colours, but it was well worth the wait, revealing garments showcasing only the most sensuous parts of a woman. Parbal’s admiration for the female form was made apparent as beauteous Autumn shades graced the catwalk in the form of carefully executed wrapped designs. The show displayed wraps galore, with each ensemble taking inspiration from Nepal, incorporating sari-like flowing materials and Muslim inspired pieces. The show began with slightly futuristic Winter-wear coloured in cold greys, silvers and whites with models sporting jumpers featuring patterned wool inspired details. Prabal juxtaposed the more traditional oversized Winter-wear jumper with a unique design and intriguing shape. His models were carefully selected, being auburn and brunette-haired in order to set off the range of fantastic autumn colours that were to come. The collection took a few Wintery looks to warm up into the Autumn colours, but it was well worth the wait, revealing garments showcasing only the most sensuous parts of a woman. Parbal’s admiration for the female form was made apparent as beauteous Autumn shades graced the catwalk in the form of carefully executed wrapped designs. The show displayed wraps galore, with each ensemble taking inspiration from Nepal, incorporating sari-like flowing materials and Muslim inspired pieces. A rainbow of browns, oranges and reds swarmed the show, showing off suits with red silky details wrapped elegantly into the suit jackets. These intertwined wraps became the signature of the collection, showing off only the most tantalising parts of the female anatomy. Prabal made a

bold statement about the infamously sexual collar bones and shoulders of a woman by using his garments to highlight these alluring body parts in some of his more daring designs. His collection accentuated and embraced the fabulous female figure whilst suitable wrapping it up warmly for the upcoming season change. Such a collection would not have been complete without a dose of sparkle, and saving the best until last by showing off elegant Autumn dresses with fantastic glittering detail on top and stunning waves of flowing fabric, Prabal boasted a real movement within the pieces. The celestial gowns were featured in a vibrant red, a startling black with a high leg slit and a unique shade of maroon, exuding class and oozing an Autumn flare. The collection was a true vision of Nepal. During the show, a streaker clearly felt empowered by Prabal’s vision and took to the catwalk. How inspiring! 55

Prabal wrapped us up in his wondrous selection of Autumn colours, with hints of strong reds, bursts of spicy oranges and dips of browns which were hard to ignore. The rich tones of true Autumn were undeniable and the radiant collection gave off a warm glow, cosying us up for Autumn. Mess Magazine

By Loo Loo Rose

AW14 NYFW 56

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We were all bitten by the Vera Wang bug during her AW14 show at New York Fashion Week. The collection featured check-on-check with mixtures of dark tartan patterns awoken by the luxurious sparkling insect-inspired jewellery. The glitteringly eye-catching bug accessories put the Vera Wang stamp on the collection, featuring sparkling broaches, bracelets and necklaces. The show began with uniform bleach-blonde models with their ‘Village of The Damned’-esque hair setting off the religiously monochrome greys and blacks of the collection. The gothic romance showed off consistent layers of leather and fur which merged wonderfully together with hints of sparkle seeping out from under the layers, bringing the pieces to life. Wang exhibited an exciting blend of fabrics, including dainty flowing backless dresses juxtaposed with the harsher black tones of a beautifully textured masculine leather jacket. The concoction was spiced up with various sparkling animated invertebrate pieces. The charming bug bling statement pieces stole the show.

Even for Autumn/Winter Wang showcased just enough skin under beautiful lacy designs which draped down to the floor leaving a lasting impression on those in the front row. The designer surprised and delighted us with a combination of hipless, backless and sleeveless garments, all sticking to the classic theme of black. There was an essence of the praying mantas amongst the models with the mixture of heavy layers on top styled with largerthan-life statement ankle boots and long bare legs. Elongated necklaces draped down to the models’ hips with their antenna-esque detail. Glistening dragon flies took flight down the catwalk as Wang underlined her collection with a bold statement reading ‘you bug me’ on a subtly black printed t-shirt design.

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Top

Hottest Model Newcomers

Fashion week season is now behind us and we look at the five hottest newcomers on the catwalks – and remember, you read it here first!

Kendall Jenner

Emma Waldo We can safely say that this F/W ‘14 season, Emma Waldo was literally everywhere. The Native New Yorker walked for Proenza Schouler, Victoria Beckham, Jill Stuart, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Hermes, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Céline, Acne, Calvin Klein, Burberry Prorsum, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander and Prada. We’ll expect her face to certainly become of household domain right about... now!

Half sister of the Kardashian gang, Kendall Jenner was always going to be advantaged to follow the career of her dreams. But the rising star has recently decided to drop her surname and just go by her first name when booking modelling jobs, hoping that people won’t think that she gets any handouts. Her first runway modelling job was at the Sherri Hill show in New York on September 14, 2011. She and her sister Kylie have also hosted fashion week parties. Kendall has two nail lacquers from the Nicole O.P.I nail polish brand called “All Kendall-ed up” and “Kendall on the Katwalk”. Moreover, Kendall has graced the covers of Teen Vogue and Seventeen with her sister Kylie in the past. But her career has truly blossomed recently, and Kendall has modelled for Marc Jacobs, Chanel and Givenchy.

Leila Ndabirabe Originally from Burundi and raised in Belgium, Leila was also big news in New York, championed by casting director Russell Marsh who featured her as a semi-exclusive at Victoria Beckham and at Tommy Hilfiger. Leila, who is 23, was one of the

most captivating faces that IMA encountered at Oscar de la Renta’s Fall/Winter 58

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2014 castings. Represented by New York Model Management, Leila appeared at Hugo Boss, Marc Jacobs, Marchesa, Ohne Titel, Oscar de la Renta, Rodarte and Tory Burch. In Milan, she walked for Versace, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Sportmax, Emilio Pucci, Bottega Veneta, and Marni. Leila’s combination of disarming good looks and intelligence – she speaks six languages and studies law in Brussels – also worked hard in Paris, but opted out of the London scene, perhaps, understandably, to take a little breather.

Amanda Wellsh She proved that Brazil is still a powerhouse modelling force. Amanda was another standout newcomer this season, especially dominating the runways in Paris, where she walked for Chanel, Emanuel Ungaro, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Kenzo, Maison Martin Margiela, Sonia Rykiel, Nina Ricci, Balmain and H&M, and Milan, where she worked for Blumarine, Dsquare2, Etro, Fendi, Francesco Scognamiglio, Gucci, Missoni, Moschino, Prada, Pucci and Versace.

Anna Ewers Last but certainly not least, this German native has also been in high demand for this past A/W ‘14 season, being the star of Milan, where she opened and closed the Versace show and walked 18 catwalks during Milan Fashion Week including Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Emilio Pucci. Not bad at all! Anna lived in Colombia, where she was originally spotted, and is the brand new face of the latest Alexander Wang campaign. Being signed with Storm Model Management (same agency that discovered the inimitable Kate Moss) she has already graced the covers of Vogue Paris, US Vogue, CR Fashion Book and i-D. We are sure we’ll see these faces again.

By Manuela Calascibetta 59

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Learn to

Model

Do you have what it takes to be a model? Have you always imagined yourself strutting down the runway in designer pieces you could only dream of having in your wardrobe? Take away the travelling, meeting new people in the industry and of course the clothes, the modelling profession is tough work. Modelling is a lifestyle with a lot of ups and downs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to succeed in the business you have to want it and be willing to put the time and energy into competition for your spot. And so, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a few tips and tricks for aspiring models.

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Picture Perfect Portfolio Your portfolio is your resume; it should have both head body shots and should display your range as a model. Go for quality and not quantity when it comes to your portfolio, less is more. Your portfolio will show the employer everything they need to know with just a few pictures, your field, whether you are comfortable in front of a camera and if you know how to move and so your portfolio should be in immaculate shape and grab the employer’s attention at first glance.

The Agency An agency is someone that will represent you’re as a model. Along with an agency you must have a portfolio and comp cards. Their main purpose is to provide you with work and send you out on jobs. One bold rule, do not go for an agency who asks you for money up front! Keep an eye out for cancellation terms, hidden costs and fees, commission percentage. Read your contract over and don’t sign it if it doesn’t feel 100% right.

Be prepared

Master the Polaroid

Always go prepared! Take everything you think you need and more – nude & black seamless underwear, basic and strapless bras, pasties, your own makeup (even if a makeup artist is on set). When packing for a shoot always think of the ‘what if’s’, don’t expect everything needed for the shoot to be provided. Along with being prepared comes time keeping. Always be on time! If you are running behind alert the Photographer or someone from the set so they know of your whereabouts. Even before getting a job you must study everything and anything about the industry – fashion designers, supermodels, photographers and everything surrounding them.

Along with your portfolio when you are sent out on a job additional snapshots will be taken by the designers/hirer. These include headshots and body shots and a profile. We know models on the runway barely smile and keep a straight face to let the clothes shine, though when meeting with a possible client play around with your facial expressions, don’t be afraid to smile and show of your posing range.

Be Yourself Let your natural personality shine through! You’ve met with an agent and now your booking jobs, great! Come as yourself - whether you dress quirky or have an urban edge to your style let them see that. Though we say dress as you usually would, you must wear body-conscious clothing, at the end of the day your face and your body are the first things they will analyze since you’re booking a job. Never over-do it, they want to see your natural beauty so a simple outfit, no makeup and natural hair are essential.

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Go-Sees

Let Your Personality Shine

Go-sees are a crucial day to day thing aspiring model must know about. The designers will see a range of different models from around the world in one day which is why you must make a lasting impression. Practice your walk and poses before-hand in the mirror. Research the designers, client or agency you are attending to make sure they are legit. Minimal or no makeup with natural hair so there is no fuss when you get to the job. Always, always, always bring a pair of heels as you’ll most likely be asked to show them your walk. Tie your hair back don’t wear anything that will take eyes away from your face. Let them know you have little experience – and never be late!

Cara Delevinge is one of the biggest models in the game at this moment in time. It may be her bold and beautiful brows, alongside that she is most known for her outgoing quirky personality. There is a time and place to let your personality shine. An outgoing personality will always standout – people will be looking for models that are confident and able to express themselves whilst remaining professional. Being nervous and holding back will only make you fade into the background. Don’t be afraid to have fun.

Remember The Business Always remind yourself that this industry is a business and will continue to run with or without you. Remember to treat clients with respect ahead of future references. You have to be prepared to lose out on jobs and to negotiate with employers with everything for feeling comfortable on set to your pay. Never leave a job because you were unhappy with what was laid out on the table, kindly turn them down for that particular job and stay in contact.

Healthy Lifestyle Drink a lot of water and ensure your skin is in excellent condition, always try to wear minimum makeup and use regular skin & hair care products. Living a healthy lifestyle means eating the right foods and staying in shape with regular exercise. Flying all over the world and running around to different jobs can have an effect on you, so sufficient sleep is key!

By Karis Levy

Mess Magazine

2014 trends

Burberry’s S/S14 collection

Spring/summer

PRETTY IN PINK Just as long as it’s in a shade of pastel; same goes for blue, green, yellow…Heck, any hue that looks good enough to wear! (And eat.) Pastel colours again I hear you cry?! Yes. Only this time they’ve had a fresh new update for 2014 and have been sliced, cut and played with in fabrics such as leather for a tough reinvention, as seen at the Burberry Prorsum show and Georgio Armani. Head to Missguided and Topshop for your on-trend pastel pieces now

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BLING IT ON Along with Pastels embellishment has also had a rebirth from the likes of Marni and Pucci in Milan kicking up a sparkly storm on their catwalk shows for this season’s trend. Jersey laden with jewels is this year’s hottest ticket to get aboard the trend, making it wearable and versatile like never before. Is this a clash of the 90’s trends with our current 2014 culture? Absolutely. Get yours now from any store as seen below, Or head down to Goldhawk road in shepherds bush and buy your own haberdashery ready to customise an old jersey from your wardrobe. Make like Marni

Aquilano Rimondi

Jil Sander

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Aria Crescendo What are you trying to say through your music? Model: Aria Crescendo Photographer: Olivier Chatard Stylist: Chelsea Von Mach Make up Artist: Camille Marie Clark Assistant Photographer: Julien Whaley

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1.What are you trying to say through your music?

What is your recipe for success? HARD WORK, PASSION, COMMITMENT and really not giving up on something you love doing! If you never give up no one can beat you!

My album it s called Beautiful Strange and it s all about being strange but beautiful so basically being who you are and not be scared of it... Most of the songs are happy and up beet so all I wanted is bring a bit of fun and happiness through my songs in this crazy world.

We could have seen a little sneak peak from your album on your Instagram account, when we can expect the new album? I’m still working on some new songs then I’ll have to mix the whole thing. I cannot say but maybe this summer my fans will be able to listen to new songs. I am not in rush. I guess it takes 6 month to build a rolls-royce and 13 hours to build a toyota !

2.If you weren’t be songwriter/singer who would you be? My second passion after music and dance will be yoga . I wrote a book about it and use to teach it on a tv show back in Paris so I guess I will have my own studio to teach people.

Which artists have influenced you the most in your life?

3.You were discovered by Will.i.am how did that happened?

With no hesitation Madonna just because she is thy only pop artist that has been in music industry for over 30 years and still keep on going so it is very inspiring to me.

Actually Bono from U2 introduced me to Jimmy Lovine - the boss of Interscope Records and Jimmy signed me for the Paradiso Girls project. This is how I met with Will cause he was a big part of my girls band when we started.

What apart from music makes you feel happy? Dancing, Yoga and other happy people around me make me happy :)

4.You’re well-known from dope style, what fashion means to you? Thanks :) Well I am from Paris and I started to model when I was 15.I did this because I wnted to earn money to live my other passions such as dancing, singing or practising yoga. Modelling taught me a lot about the fashion and styling and now I love going on line and researching new brands or fashion designers, just for fun.

Mess Magazine

CARTIER

Explicit femininity, free-thinking, fierce temperament

Written by Kasia Piersa

Mess Magazine

Saturday, Champs Elysees in the middle of the day. I walk straight, leisurely passing all the luxurious boutiques I know well from fashion magazines. But today I don’t step by any of them (to be completely honest, I didn’t step by them any other day either, due to the somewhat important lack of thousands of euros on my bank account...). I had a plain goal, which I was slowly approaching – Grand Palais. In front of the majestic building I saw the lady dividing people into two groups: those who had the ticket and those that didn’t. I was a member of the latter group and so I was informed that the time for waiting to get the tickets would now be... two hours.

A political event? Movie premiere? What was so attractive to people that they were willing to sacrifice so much of their (probably) precious time? Well, ladies and gentelman, it was the Cartier exhibition. It took a few diamonds that became historical and the right name on the banner over Grand Palais to gather masses. In 1847 a man had an idea. The man was Louis Francois Cartier and the idea was to create jewellery. The little maison was a success in Paris and later his grandsons decided to expand. In 1904 the first branch of Cartier opened in Russia, where everybody fell in love with intricately designed pieces. 1909 brought another office opened in London and dukes and dutchesses, princesses and queens – they all desired world’s most delightful rings and tiaras. 1911 came with the most exotic so far place for Cartier store – India. Maharajas, widely known for their admiration for sumptuousness, entrusted Cartier with their most valuable gem stones to be turned into craftsmanlike pieces of art. And it didn’t take too much time before Hollywood noticed the undeniable beauty that laid in whatever maison Cartier had to offer. Firstsilent movies actresses, then Marylin Monroe, Grace Kelly, Elis

abeth Taylor... Everyone wanted Cartier by that time, it became a symbol of timeless elegance and, of course, achievable only for chosen ones luxury. Given the history like that I’m no longer wondering why, instead of taking a walk on Champs de Mars or sipping coffee lazily on Place de Tertre, people decided to see the exhibition. It was a marvel – all the walls and the ceiling were covered with colorful iluminations, imitating the shadow of gems. The surroundings were dark and the only light came from cabinets, where all the diamonds, sapphires and emeralds came to life, as if we could wear them just like that. The exhibition assembled most iconic jewellery pieces of Cartier. All the tiaras worn by most powerful women of 19th and 20th century, earrings worn in movies, necklaces of unimaginable expenses... I think that for a second I got dizzy from all the sparkling! My favourite piece? I definitely have one, and surprisignly it’s not any crown/ tiara motif that I’m so fond of for unnknown reason. It was the broche featuring a platinum panther on a cabochon sapphire, the most gracious thing I ever came across in my entire life.

Panther appeared on many of the Cartier pieces, you could even say that at some point it was the key element for the collections. Why? Explicit femininity, free-thinking, fierce temperament – qualities associated with a panther, now also associated with Cartier’s essence. Jeweler to kings, king of jewellers - said once the Prince of Whales, future king Edward the 7th, and that sums it up just about right. 79

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Topshop x adidas Collaboration Let’s get sporty this season, with Topshop’s newest collaboration with Adidas originals. The 20-peice collection, set to of hit the Topshop stores and online on the 20th March, is all about letting your inner-athlete out. Sporty wear has been big this past year, with trainers being seen all over the highstreet, and joggers coming out in different styles and fabrics. Both for performance and street wear, this collaboration is about getting in touch with the Topshop consumer, who, ideally can be one of the most stylish people on the high street in the UK, and letting them push the boundaries. The collection is filled with print and pastel tones, giving the products easy to wear use. Topshop have reworked the Adidias logo with a London landmark-centric print, keeping to their own consumer roots and adding their own heritage to the German brand. Styles included in the collection will be baggy hoodies, tailored tracksuit bottoms, athlete shorts, scoop-neck vests and floral detailing. From what has been released there is a clear colour palette of light pinks, blues, greens, and greys, just in time for spring/summer. Trainers will be included such as Tech Super & Attitude, making your ideal street style sportswear flow from head to toe. Prices will b ranging from £25 - £90. Brands in the past like Chanel, who featured stylish trainers during Spring/Summer Haute Couture 2014 have made an impact of going sporty. So get ready to add some kick to your spring/summer wardrobe, it’s time to get sporty!

By Charlotte Pratt

Mess Magazine

susie Bubble By Karis Levy

Starting

through social media and stuck with it. Susie created a following for herself through the one thing she knew well

her influential blog in March of 2006, this month marks the eighth year running of StyleBubble. Susanna Lau more famously known as Susie Bubble is the face behind the fashion and lifestyle blog. Writing, editing and photography all add up to StyleBubble – Susie shares personal experiences, fashion posts involving observations, reviews and an insight along her fashion journey all whilst recognising and sharing young and unknown talent with her readers. Always showing support for fellow bloggers and people in the industry, Susie is on the jury for the International Fashion Showcase which works to bring emerging designers from all over the world to London Fashion Week giving them an international talent platform. Susie’s love for fashion was originally an act of rebellion against her parents and school which soon developed into

and loved which was fashion. Sharing an insight into her life through Twitter, Instagram, Tumblr and Facebook brought more readers to StyleBubble giving her blog 35,000 visitors per day. With a global ranking of 107,448, 121k followers on Instagram, 221k followers on Twitter and 58k likes to her Facebook page Susie shows no signs of slowing down.

a passion leading her up to starting her blog. Since her first post on StyleBubble Susie has been consistent and focused her life around it. Starting her blog in the earlier days she received a healthy amount of recognition through

Working with Dazed Digital for two years from 2008 gave Susie a further insight – resigning from that position and focusing mainly on StyleBubble Susie continues to contribute to other

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other freelance projects, featuring and writing for magazines and newspapers such as POP, The Guardian and Glamour. It wasn’t just luck and good social media skills that gained Susie respect in the blogger world but her crowd-jealously bold outfits inflated her status. Being named a style icon by Company and Glamour magazine Susie describes her style as ‘fairly electric, I like to experiment and contrast different styles together.’ Known for her bold fringe and her ‘no rule’ style Susie favours chunky heels with socks, trainers and skirts over trousers – a Susie essential for everyone craving her look, geometric neon arty prints and OTT layering. Less is never more. This year has already seen Susie buzzing around fashion week in her stand out ensembles. After recently attending New York Fashion Week Susie favoured the Marc by Marc Jacobs show naming it her highlight. ‘It’s more informal and the vibe’s more buzzy. It’s like a home crowd at a football match, so there’s whooping and cheering’ Susie showed her appreciation for London Fashion Week dubbing it her favourite. 83

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Top 5 Campaigns By Amber Davies

of 2014

Mirander Kerr for H&M With her light-reflecting skin, vertical cheekbones and Cali-cool style, it’s not hard to see why the retail giants chose this Aussie goddess to front their most recent ad campaign. The campaign features shots of Kerr looking relaxed yet radiant ‘at home’ in a sundrenched garden somewhere gorgeously warm. The collection mixes feminine pieces with masculine tailoring; all wrapped up with a casual ‘wearable’ feel. In particular, Kerr models a gorgeous sheer blouse paired with a perfectly pink a-line miniskirt which would be the ideal summer office outfit.

Alexa Chung for

Alexa Chung looks every inch the retro star, with her signature hairstyle and feline eyeliner, as she takes over from previous campaign girls Coco Rocha and Kate Moss as the new face of the Parisian brand. The campaign was shot in the beautiful location of St. Tropez for the brand’s 20 year anniversary of the iconic ‘La Pliage’ handbag. The bags have been rebooted as part of the S/S 2014 collection. The ads see the model posing girlishly on harbours and racing a baby blue car equipped with several of the Longchamp bags in tow. Mess Magazine 84

Suki Waterhouse and Chloe Noorgard for

The 22 year old British model and actress from London joins Bip Ling and Chloe Noorgard for the popular Australian footwear brand. She looks natural with dark kohl-rimmed eyes and ruffled hair, sat casually with the boots on, she exerts effortless style and oozes cool, not to mention Noorgard with her multicoloured locks and strikingly luminous face, eyes similarly rimmed with smoky black. UGG have managed to bag the two girls everyone wants to hang out with, wearing affordable and comfortable footwear! If Waterhouse says UGGs are cool- UGGs are cool. End of.

Rihanna for Global superstar Rihanna has been hailed an ‘icon’ by Balmain’s creative director after the latest S/S 2014 campaign. French fashion house Balmain wanted Rihanna to model their creations after the creative director Olivier Rousteing admitted “When the woman that inspires you wears your creations, your vision feels complete.” In an interview with Vogue. The star was shot in New York with photographer Inez van Lamsweerde and the collection was debuted in January 2014. It is clear that the star is ready to take on the fashion world as she has previously fronted Armani Jeans back in 2013.

Kate Moss for

The global icon Kate Moss has told the fashion world under no uncertain terms, she is still very much current and is still putting the ‘super’ into model after fronting the British brand Alexander McQueen’s S/S 2014 campaign. Shot by photographer Steven Klein, Moss is presented as a dark, otherworldly creature with a canary yellow crop, wearing leather and metal. The miniature version of Moss in matching McQueen uniform which features in each shot- not to mention the dark and mysterious setting adds to the unique and eccentric touch that Alexander McQueen is renowned for. 85

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RE-STRICT-ED PHOTOGRAPHER Kay Shea www.kaysheaphotographer.com STYLIST: Tiffany Rae www.tiffanyraestylist.com MAKEUP/HAIR: Krystal Catania MODEL: Lauran Christoph

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Nobody can make the transition from low-key fashion blogger to a professional fashionista like Chiara Ferragni. The blonde beauty started her blog ‘The Blonde Salad’ back in October of 2009 where she began sharing her interest in fashion and personal looks with her followers. Fast forward a few years and Chiara is #9 on the list of Most Influential Fashion and Beauty Bloggers with The Blonde Salad receiving 111,000 views daily.

CHIARA FARRAGNI chiaraferragnishoes.com

When Chiara isn’t running her blog she’s working on designers for her self titled shoe collection ‘Chiara Ferragni.’ Since starting the collection in September 2010 Ferragni has collaborated with Yamamay – ‘Chiara Ferragni for Yamamay’ – and most recently Steve Madden designing a 9-shoe collection for Spring 2014. Aside from shoes Ferragni has taken on modelling and co-writing for influential fashion blogs. She writes her own personal section on Style. it and magazine ‘A.’ Taking part in New York, London, Milan, Paris, Moscow and Sao Paulo fashion week Chiara has also modelled for Teen Vogue and Guess with who she was named a spokesperson for. Collaborating with Louis Vuitton, Alberta Ferretti, Mango, Christian Dior and Guess gained Chiara an even wider rangeofrecognitionwithintheindustry. Of course it’s not all sitting behind a computer and updating her keen readers every week with Chiara. With a YouTube channel sharing the same name as her blog Chiara uploads videos sharing a further insight of her life involving everything from travel and fashion to lifestyle and Q&A videos interacting with her viewers. Not only that – Chiara Ferragni released a book ‘The Blonde Salad’ to top it all off. Social Media wise The Blonde Salad has ranked up almost 2 million followers on Instagram with 190k followers on twitter.

theblondesalad.com By Karis Levy

Now let’s talk her style. Speaking to LookBook Chiara shared her interest for fashion came from when she was younger, her Mother worked in the fashion industry for Blumarine. She ‘looked over her Mothers clothes and accessories and thought she looked like a princess all the time.’ On her own personal style Chiara said she did not have a unique style. She takes inspiration from everything that surrounds her from street style, movies, and blogs. She believes people should dress the way they feel comfortable. Naming high end brands her favourites such as Alexander Wang, Rick Owens and Alexander McQueen Chiara also has a love for vintage stores and finding unique items.

Though she had branded out into her own business and held her place in the fashion spotlight, Chiara Ferragni still keeps up to date with her own websites, sharing her experiences and her own style with her followers.

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The Alley

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PHOTOGRAPHER: Kay Shea WARDROBE STYLIST: Tiffany Rae ACCESSORIES: Vauje MAKEUP: Melissa Marshall HAIR: Julie Trimble & Katelyn Pruitt MODELS: Linzy Anna & Ebony Peebles

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Nowadays we can commonly observe disturbing acts of desperate behaviours from all around the world caused by lack of acceptance from environment.

How

Fashion can change the perception of a human being The numbers and facts are screaming in front of our faces: 70% of all students admit to be bullied, abused or beaten by peers at school just because of their appearance or individual style that they represent. In the USA, last 10 years were horrifying time for all fashion freaks at schools: over 60 young people that were murdered at school because of the different style, body shape, gender or sexual orientation. The violence, discrimination and intolerance seem to be accepted by our society and the harmful module of inapropriate behaviour is spreading all the time across people of all ages and countries.

By Dominika Perek Drawing by Mollie Reeves 106

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Our indentity, style, gender or age should never disunite people and divide society onto groups that worship different types of people, without no clear reason. All types of people deserve to have their own rights to choose how they wanna look and who they wanna be. The permission to be or become who we wanna be, should be a natural law given to everyone in the date of birth. Influence of Media Fashion is accessible form to express ourselves without saying a word. From young age children are taught by their parents the ‘dress code’. However, we all have freedom to choose the colors, prints and materials that we wanna wear, we usually choose what is trending at that time in TV, Press or Internet. Subconscious dictature of Media became really dangerous tool to upset our self-confidence and self-acceptance. Of course, watching super skinny model with outstanding face does not have to cause problems in our lives, but usually people believe (especially young ladies) that this is the only acceptable way to look like. This is where all complexes come from: by self-judgement and comparing to all the fabulous models in magazines. In short time, we start feeling uncomfortable with ourselves, we try to pretend someone else and then we simply fail. Fashion should be an amazing way to create your image and share it with other people. The diversity should always help us to achieve it. In fact, in practise it may be found as really difficult to do. The clothes aren’t the problem. It’s who is or isn’t – wearing them. We can notice discrimination on the catwalks where Caucasian models are always surrounded by another Caucasian models. It is a very rare view to see diversity of skin colors at one show. The injustice may impact on all of the aspects of our lives, from mental to physical ones.

Gender Many times, we hear how we should dress up appropriately, act to don’t stand out from the crowd, how to even feel about ourselves, but it shouldn’t change the way that we perceive ourselves, it may only influence us to push the obstacles away. The truth is inside of everyone and can be easily found by listening. What does it mean to dress up appropriately? To fit into well-known canons of beauty or fashion ? The transsexualist, homosexualist or hybrid gender shouldn’t be categorized as walking fashion disasters with no rights to look or feel good. We all need to accept the diversity that can be seen all around the us! We can look different and just BE different. Changing the way you look or behave just because of the environmental pressure won’t make anyone a better person. Education If you are being taught to dress some way, you won’t be able to notice different styles. You cannot reach more than you know. That’s why education should be a weapon against social issues caused by lack of knowledge, acceptance and tolerance. Some classes such as learning the advantages and disadvantages of the body or finding unique style should be taught in every school. The self-awareness and creativity would be maximally increased and we would live in socially happy environment! Fashion changes the way people perceive us, but it should never be a reason to categorize, judge, bully, threaten, beat or humiliate the other person. Even the fanciest and the most expensive clothing won’t change the cold-hearted person who does not accept someone else. Our generation needs to start thinking and caring of the others, especially in fashion industry where we can connect with all types of human beings. The importance of understanding someone else’s position or heritage is way too big to miss it. Young people have the power to change something that may become the beginning of the revolution. Social revolution. Let’s love fashion, love other people, start car107stop judging. Just be who you Mess Magazine ing, are.

Aloha from Deer Interviewed by Daniel Matejczyk Printed sweatshirts, leggins or t-shirts are the must-haves in every fashionista or street wear lover closet. Mariusz MAc – the founder of one of the coolest street wear brands Aloha From Deer, started his journey with designing few years ago. Now the AFD clothes are worn by Ellie Goulding, Robbie Williams or Anja Rubik. How did he start his own brand? What was the main inspiration for creating printed sweatshirts? Who wanted to interrupt him in the creative proccess? Find the answers for these questions below. Daniel Matejczyk: Few years ago nobody heard about printed sweatshirts in Poland. It seems like in relatively short period of time, your brand has hit the hearts of Pooles. Now Aloha From Deer is highly recognizable in Europe and the biggest superstars love to wear your projects. Last month, we could witness the offical launch of the first botuiqe of Aloha From Deer in Paris. It is very prestigious thing for a new brand to open up the local store. When you did start designing your first projects – did you expect that it will take over your life and AFD will become so huge? Mariusz MAc: Well, when I started the brand, my expectations weren’t so high. I have never thought that this type of fashion will be estatically welcomed in Poland. I have never expected that people from all around the world will be interested in wearing AFD clothing. In the beginning, I found few financial and organizational problems and they caused many concerns about the brand and its future. Luckily, everything has been solved very quickly and I was able to kept on designing new collections. Brand has grown and expanded. Lately, we’ve collaborated with French brand ‘Kiliwatch’ that gave us oppurtinity to open local store in Paris. DM: We could have seen a little sneak peak from the opening on AFD offical Instagram account. With no doubt the biggest star was Anja Rubik. Some Polish local celebrities also did appear,

DM: We could have seen a little sneak peak from the opening on AFD offical Instagram account. With no doubt the biggest star was Anja Rubik. Some Polish local celebrities also did appear, for instance Zosia Slotała or fashion blogger Jessica Mercedes. MM: Ellie Goulding came for opening too! DM: Excatly. These are the hottest names in the industry. How did you feel when you realized who came to the opening? MM: Anja Rubik sometimes mentions about our brand in the interviews. She wears our clothes, because she likes them, not because we did send them to her. We’ve never meant to build the brand that will focus on celebrities or bloggers. We have just started thinking about gifting them as a part of PR&Marketing. 6 months ago, we really weren’t interested to do so. We have never sent the packages with gifts to anyone. Stars managers contact us often because they wanna find great designed clothes that will make their clients stand out from the crowd. For instance, Robbie William’s agent contacted us and bought 30 sweatshirts and this is why Robbie wore our clothes. Polish actresses, singers or celebrities wear the clothes for the same reason. They usually find us on the Internet and simply love the designs so they buy the clothes. In the future, if we find that kind of promotion is useful, we will use it and send the gifts for international stars. It is an amazing Mess Magazine 108

designs so they buy the clothes. In the future, if we find that kind of promotion is useful, we will use it and send the gifts for international stars. It is an amazing feeling when you see someone famous in your designs. It makes you feel motivated! DM: Your hard work has been appreciated. Aloha From Deer is well-known brand in Europe and the rest of the world and more importantly becomes more cult with every design. MM: This is why you make the whole buzz about the brand to make people recognize your brand and buy the clothes. It is not everything of course, but the social media buzz is very important. Apart a great promotion, details and the quality of materials make us stand out from the crowd. People wanna wear authentic and artistically true designs. Nobody wants to wear the copies of copies that maybe cost less, but the quality is usually bad. DM: How did you come up with an idea for creating street wear brand? MM: I am photographer and 4 years ago I had internship in Glamour Magazine where I was shooting fashion photo shoots and editing them. I was meant to go to Acting School, but it didn’t work out because I came up with an idea of creating street wear brand after observing Tumblr’s community. I did design the first few sweatshirts and showed them on Facebook’s fanpage. I didnt have any experience in creating the brand or its management. I felt like my

have any experience in creating the brand or its management. I felt like my idea had enormous potential and I was sure that it is going to work out. I had to set up everything by myself – learn how to design, saw and produce clothes. The whole proccess was simple, but pretty tough to handle. DM: Where do your inspirations come from? MM: Everything inspire me. Especially Tumblr, the history of Art, old photographies or current trends of design and multimedia. I have always wanted to mix all those things and sell it as ready-togo piece that represents fashion combined with an art. The clothes are just converted thoughts, ideas, memories or anything that influence me – from social media to my personal feelings. DM: How the process of making first sweatshirt looked like? MM: Well, it has all started from creating the first designs in Photoshop. I know how to manage graphic programs because I was attending to Design School. I designed in InDesign and PS four sweatshirts: first one, with galactic print that quickly became really big hit. I created my own vision of galaxy from mix of few different cosmic photographies. The second one was inspired by painting of Hieronim Bosch, the third showed the appearance of Madonna Della Rosa by Rafael Santi. The last one, was strictly the flower power sweatshirt that still remains bestseller! We’ve started hitting 109

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remains bestseller! We’ve started hitting the market with only 4 sweatshirts! DM: Creating your own brand was a big challenge for you? Aloha From Deer was one of the first brands that established online buying system in Poland. MM: It was both easy and hard. Selling clothes online can be hard if the variety of clothes is huge. The tough part of creating the business and letting people buy them without stepping out of home is definitely creating economic activity. On the other hand, creating web shop that would look modern and original one was easy. We wanted to make it

brand, there was literally few fashion designers in Polish market. When they became more and more successful, young people started following them by setting up their own businesses. Unfortunately, many fashion designers do not sell at all, even though they have great projects. The recipe is simple, you need to create clothes that will show your own unique vision that is true to you. If people will see that the projects are just great and they are uniquely designed, they will buy them with no doubt. DM: Do you feel pressure to keep on going and design new things?

look very international and accessible for everyone. We were inspired by few online shops that really amazed us. I don’t have any person who would develop the website for me, I’ve done this by myself and I still do it by myself. I did set up AFD online shop on one of the toughest development platforms, but it was worth it! The platform is tough, but very effective! DM: What is your advice for people who would like to set up their own online shop and sell the clothes online? What is your recipe for success? MM: 2 years go, when I started the

MM: I think the prints are the most important thing for me right now because we are trying to show them in new forms in basic collections. People really do love prints and we are selling a lot so I feel the pressure to create new ones, mix them with old AFD prints, design innovative clothes. DM: If you could describe your ideal client, who would be that? MM: It depends which projects he/ she would wear. Most of the things are addressed for young, fashion-forward people. We have variety of clothes that are targeted to older people that want Mess Magazine 110

to be fashionable all the time. Recently, people above 24 years have became interested in our clothes, it only proves the theory that the age does not matter when it comes to prints. DM: Which star you’d like to see in Aloha From Deer clothes? MM: I think it’d be great if Beyonce would wear our clothes for the cover of her album. DM: This is pretty possible, because Beyonce loves to wear creative street wear clothes. MM: We have direct contact with Beyonce’s stylist. We have to be sure that the projects are fine, then we can send them to her. Once, we will feel ready, we will send the clothes to her and who knows, maybe she will wear it.... DM: Tell us how did you combined photography with design? MM: When I was a photographer, I used to shoot tones of pictures in very simple form. In past year I haven’t shot at all. I mainly focus on brand development all the time so I don’t have the time to shoot. Last project that I’ve done was a short film with Magdalen Frackowiak for Elle Magazine. DM: How creative proccess of designing looks like? From an idea to its completion? MM: Few times a week I do big research. I put my thoughts and ideas into concrete drawing, concrete project. I ask myself how can I translate everything into my own language, the language of prints. This is how the big base of ideas, pictures and inspirations begins to grow. From that base I can choose the elements that in the creating process will finally become the prints on sweatshirts. Preparing images for sweatshirts is very long proccess, everything has to be very well thought-out. DM: Do you realize individual orders? MM: We have never done this and we will never do. We are faithful to our own vision which clearly says that we are

street wear brand, we do not do cus tomized projects. DM: What are your plans for future? MM: We plan to open up a local store in Warsaw and then create a line of accessories and home decor. DM: Do you plan to open up for Asian market? Japan, China etc? MM: We were in trade fair in Japan 3 or 4 months ago. Aloha From Deer is available to buy in Asia in app. 6 shops. 2 of them are based in China, 4 in Taiwan. Even though, Chinese market is focused on massive production, Chinese people love to wear original clothes made in Europe! DM: What I should wish you? MM: Consistency in action.

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BLACK CROW

Photographer: Katarzyna Czerniak / www.katarzynaczerniak.com Model: Natalia MusiaĹ&#x201A; / MLStudio Model Management Make up: Klaudia Kaminska / facebook.com/KlaudiaMaluje?fref=ts Stylization: Agnieszka Nowicka / facebook.com/StylinStories?fref=ts Designer: Zhenia/ Yevgeniya Yurkevicha / ASP / facebook.com/zhenia.eu?fref=ts Photographic assistant: Dominika Figlarek Film: Agnieszka Borowiak 112

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Music

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By Kasia Piersa

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Joe Brotherton Interview written by Natalie Walsh

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What attracted you to the modelling industry? I guess I’ve always watched Tyra Banks’ “Americas next top model” so when the opportunity for me to do it came along, I kind of just jumped at it! Do you have a particular model that you look up to? It should be a male model, but to be frankly honest it would either be Coco Rocha, for changing how models at younger ages are treated and basically being stunning, or Alexa Chung for being so cool!

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Do you have a favourite designer in particular? I have a strong connection with Saint Laurent as they gave me my first runway show, which was an exclusive for the season, so I always favour their clothes due to that! You recently modelled for Vogue Netherlands, can you describe this experience for you? Unbelievable, firstly shooting for Vogue was surreal and then when published, we got cover story, which was even more overwhelming! It was just a great experience that will stay for a while.

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The modelling industry is a world where faces are forever changing. Cara Delevigne came onto the scene in 2013 and Kendall Jenner is becoming a regular on the catwalks this 2014. However a young model who goes by the name of Joe Brotherton is becoming one to watch. He’s walked for the likes of Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent and has also been featured in Vogue Netherlands and most recently Hunter Magazine. So just how did he go from a young boy in the picturesque village of Denholme, to currently studying Fine Art at the Manchester School of Art whilst living the life of a fashion model?

If you could work with any photographer in the industry who would it be and why? Patrick Demarchellier or Tim Walker. I think, personally their reputation clearly is outstanding, and visually I love their work! And especially Demarchelier’s aesthetic at the moment!

What has been your favourite photo shoot? It is a shoot unpublished at the moment, but it’s due to the team and location, and frankly to the drunken night out with all of them! If you could do a shoot for any magazine which would you choose? I’d like to shoot for many magazines like I-D and Dazed and Confused but also American Vogue, I don’t really know which I would narrow it down to as there is far too many that are amazing and I’ve only named a few.

Do you have any other secret talents? Secret talent, I can whistle quite well (or so I am told) but I don’t really know what qualifies as a talent, or me just being weird!

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By Kasia Piersa

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By Kasia Piersa

Edited and translated by Dominika Perek Interviewed by Daniel Matejczyk

Tamara Gonzalez Parea one of the most recognizable fashion bloggers is well-known for her eclectic, flamboyant and exuberant fashion style

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Macademian Girl Daniel Matejczyk: You’re one of the most colorful fashion bloggers in Poland. How do you feel about that? Macademian Girl: The most colorful? I think there are no colorful fashion bloggers in Polish blogosphere at all! I am the only one! How do I feel about that? This who I am, always different, always colorful. DM: What are your main inspirations when you create colorful outfit for every day? MG: All of the ideas come from my own imagination. I observe everything that surrounds me: my friends, places that I go, random people on the street, shops, food. I get inspirations from smaller and bigger things, I think that even the smallest thing can inspire you in indescribable way and change the way you perceive the reality. DM: I did notice that toques are one of accessories that you like to wear the most. I think that toques became such an inherent part of your outfit that without them your style wouldn’t be so specific and original. You look like you were born in toque! They just perfectly fit you and complement all of your outfits! Do you think toques became your trademark? Do you feel like you want people associate your fashion style with great accessories such as toques? MG: I think great accessories should be a part of everyone’s outfits! You can choose how do you wanna look so why you should look like everyone? There is such a huge verstatility in accessories so you can choose something that will fit your style, help to complete your outfit and express your creativity and personality. When it comes to toques, I think they have been forgotten by many women recently, just because of the fact that the tradition is not handed down from generation to generation and people just do not realize that toques exist or that they are not reserved only for royal family!

DM: For example, in UK toques are the big part of women’s style and almost every woman wears them. MG: That is true! British fashion designers are well-known from their love for toques and handbands so women that could be seen on the street, usually fabulous toque on her head and they arenot considered as ‘fashion freaks’. DM: Of course. The fact that Queen Elisabeth II loves to wear toques encourage women to do not fear the eclectic style and include toques in every day outfits! MG: Exactly. When I was in London, older women approached me, asking ‘Where did you get this particular toque?’ DM: What are your plans for the future? How do you see yourself within next 5 years? Do you want to still be a blogger or for example become a stylist? MG: The stylist job has never been fascinating to me. I style myself every day, but I wouldn’t wanna style someone else... Fashion writing is something that I am truely in love with and this is my dream job! I am sure that I will still have my own fashion blog, but it is not gonna be the only fashion related thing that I will do! I am trying to start pursuing the fashion writing career – recently I started writing for my own coloumn in Grazia Magazine. I write about fashion mainly, but also about the all artistic ways to express yourself, for instance movies or art. I think fashion is strictly related to the Art, and each one cannot exist without the other one. DM: What do you think about the other Polish fashion bloggers: Jessica Mercedes or Maffashion? MG: Every each of us is different so the style of each is different. DM:Do you think that people in Poland have a problem with their cultural heritage and its tradition? MG: If we are talking about local motives yes I think it causes lots of problems with cultural and social background. Local motives in Poland such as folclore clothes are 167 Mess Magazine

are perceived as kitsch. One of the biggest hits in Poland recently, ‘My Słowianie’ by Donatan and Cleo divided the society for ones who likes the words and visual effects in the music video and for the rest who think that the whole concept is absolutely unacceptable. Why that happened? Because we are ashamed of who we are – the Slavs. DM: Do you think that Polish people are not prepared to absorb standards of high fashion? MG: Polish people are still learning a lot from themselves, observing someone else’s style, watching fashion in tv, follwoing fashion blogs or reading magazines. This a long-term process and cannot be done in realtively short period of time. It needs lots of time, motivation and knowledge to understand more. DM: Are you that kind of person who encourage other people to find and create their own style or blindly copy the looks from catwalk or shop windows? MG: I think it is good when you try to find your own style that consist of many different elements. Sometimes these elements may look like seemingly ill-fitted and just do not fit the expectations of bigger audeince, but for you they are true essence of your style. It is important to be who you are all the time, keep trying to look different, but still remain yourself. This is the best recipe that has been ever created to look good. DM: What is your advice for everyone who tries to find their own style? MG: First of all, do not be afraid to experiment! Do not care about the fact that your first, second or third time wasnt’t perfect and you failed! After the 10Th time, you will find the style that fit you! 168

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Supermarket

Photography: Karol Trębuła Models: Dominika Perek/ Daniel Matejczyk Make-up: Karolina Łata Hair: Mateusz Bech

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Brand Bio Marjorie Renner Paris provides delicate fine-tuned evening bags with an unconventional sense of timelessness. This cosmopolitan line is an expression of its creation; inspired by a life of travel, Marjorie Renner manifests that the true definition of elegance is as rare and unique as it is international. The collection reveales a taste of the orient and the occident: embracing the use of rich and sensuous elements while maintaining sophisticated and simple structure. Handcrafted at the couture quality level, Marjorie Rennerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bold yet tasteful patterns of elaborate natural elements present a variety of unexpectedly divine wardrobe accessories. The collection demonstrates the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s avant-garde approach of mixing raw materials drawn from Earth, wind, water and fire to create an astonishingly soft feminine piece of art: from organically beautiful bamboo plant that plays a significant role in Asian cultures, to the pearl and its universal metaphor of rarity and value, and every fiber in between a worldly balance and timeless interpretation are evident in eachhandbag. Marjorie Renner Paris stands as an expensive accent piece for the eccentric woman celebrating lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique treasures in the most ornate of fashions.

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FULLSCALE

FullScale Photographers: Antonio De Lucci + Kristin Cofer Styling: Dexter Simmons Models: Alexis Hutt & Natalia Brown HMU: Dexter Simmons Shoe Design: Dexter Simmons Various Accessories: Mess StonePony Shop Magazine 190

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Let's work this out By Kasia Piersa

6:00

AM I hear the alarm clock going on and I know that it starts. The new day. Classes, job, a dear friend that wants to have coffee. On my way to the coffee shop I have to step by some store to buy a light bulb (where do I buy a light bulb anyway?), I think I can go home now. Wait, no... I need to rush to the library to pick up that book I ordered, I guess I’ll just stay there and read texts for tomorrow’s classes. Great, I finally got home, I grab something to eat, I go through the news, maybe read a book or watch a movie. Sounds hectic and somewhat familiar? I know it does, because we’re a very busy generation and most of our days look like that. Now when do we find time to go to the gym?

I said we were a busy generation, but we’re also a very pro keeping-it-fit one. Not solely for the purpose of looking good in that new dress you just bought, but also to get our minds off everyday matters. It’s a very healthy tendency, both in a physical and psychological sense. So how can we combine our tight schedule and fitness time? It’s simple. We exercise at home.

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If you’re about to say that you don’t own a TV or you don’t want to spend money on DVDs with routines you’ll quickly get bored of, don’t worry. Because what happens to be the infinite source of any kinds of workouts is the wonderful YouTube. The same one we use to search for funny vids or to play our favourite songs, as it turns out - it can also serve us with training programs created by professionals. And trust me, there’s no time wasted - this things are actually pretty hard to get through and they definitely work. Another great advantage of working out with YouTube, besides that it’s for free, is that you can choose any part you want to train the most and focus on it. You want to slim your waist? No problem. Loosing inches off your hips? It’s there. You want a gap between your thighs or you’d like to shrink your arms? There isn’t a part of your body you could think of that hasn’t been handled in one of YouTube’s workout videos. Another great advantage of working out with YouTube, besides that it’s for free, is that you can choose any part you want to train the most and focus on it. You want to slim your waist? No problem. Loosing inches off your hips? It’s there. You want a gap between your thighs or you’d like to shrink your arms? There isn’t a part of your body you could think of that hasn’t been handled in one of YouTube’s workout videos.

Some of the channels offer you training programs that are exercised by celebrities. For instance “Jennifer Aniston’s Yoga” or “Legs like Jennifer Lawrence”. Other series shows us the secret we would all like to know - how Victoria’s Secret model work out. But if you’re not a big fan of working on each parts of your body separately, you can get an awesome cardio workout on FitnessBlender or you can do High Intensity Interval Training (I also recommend FitnessBlender for that one). Or you can just type in “full body workout” and search through hundreds of results to get those you like the most! Isn’t that amazing? If you find yourself excited about the idea of YouTube workouts, you might also be interested in websites that offer challenges, like for instance “7 day ab challenge” or “14 day summer legs challenge”. These are pretty intense, but demand less than 20 minutes six days a week, and the effects are surprising. Yoga, pilates, cardio, HIIT - anything you can imagine for a price of pure self-motivation and no more than an hour of your time in total (and at any time of the day, which I think is crucial). You can alternate between your favourite workouts so you never get bored - there isn’t enough time in the world to complete all of the existing routines and new ones keep showing up every day. And most important - you don’t have to go anywhere. I’m sure you’re going to lots of places during the day, so crossing one out of the list is nothing but a win! 203 Mess Magazine

Carnival Photographer: Antonio De Lucci Model: Kristina Schrรถeder Stylist: Dexter Simmons Designer: Dexter Simmons HMU: Dexter Simmons

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