Fashion Mapping - Trend Report by Dominika Rekas (quirkydom)

FASHION MAPPING

CONTENTS

1 Trends What is a trend? 4 2 Sustainability & Fast Fashion 8 3 Trend Forecasting 16 4 Film Representation 17 5 Role of Media Social Media 18 Print Media 20 6 SS/17 Trends 80s 23 Athleisure 24 Statement Stripes 25 Mega Trend: Maximalism 26 7 Pink Trend 28 Psychology of Pink 30 Pink Trend Mooodboard 32 Nottingham Trend Tracking 34 Fuchsia Trend Moodboard 36 8 Primary Research Street Interviews 38 Sales Assisstant Interviews 39 9 Styling Shoot Concept 42 Print Inspiration 43 Location 44 Choice of Product 46 10 Blog Post 48 11 Trend Conclusion 50

Dominika Rekas N0696075 Word Count: 2,721

TRENDS What is a trend?

The fashion industry evolves around profit. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an art form which exists solely on the purchase of it, otherwise it wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t evolve. Clothes are essentially fabrics covering our bodies however the fashion industry has maintained this need for more. Hundreds of years ago it was about quality and owning the best of the best. In the recent years, fast fashion emerged. Quality is no longer the focus, instead its quantity and keeping up with the most recent trend which is changing faster more than ever.

“Trends are profits waiting to happen.” -Raymond, 2010

SUSTAINABILITY & FAST FASHION

The Textile industry is the second most polluting industry in the world after oil. [Faresin, 2017] Every step that it takes to create a garment there are sustainability issues that need to be considered. The industry discharges toxic chemicals into the environment, uses huge amounts of energy and is a major contributor to global warming. [Brown, 2010] Why are brands so care-free when it comes to the production of their products?

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Buy less. Choose well.â&#x20AC;? Vivienne Westwood - Black, 2012 9

Fast fashion is also a concept to consider. The blame has previously been pointed to the brands, now the consumers have a major impact on the industry since the fast fashion concept began. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all responsible for buying into the brands which feeds into its success.

Brands don’t mean to be unsustainable. High street brands all state that they are eco-friendly. Inditex, major corporation owning Zara, state on their website, “Sustainability forms the basis of all our business decisions. We strive to offer our customers safe and ethical products that are made in ways that respect the environment and broader society.” (Inditex, Unknown) And yet Zara has been involved in many scandals regarding their working conditions and volume of clothing produced. (Krupnick, 2012) Departments lack the ability to share responsibility to work ethically.

TREND FORECASTING Fashion Forecasting is the art of telling the future. Or in other words, predicting what’s going to be popular in the next year, 2 years or even 10 years. Fashion forecasters are able to study the current zeitgeist, spot the big macro trends and interpret them to see what will follow. Trend forecasters ‘locate the source of trends and use their skill and knowledge to identify emerging concepts.’ (Brannon, Davita, 2015)

It is also important to consider the job of a buyer. If the business does not buy the goods that the customer demands, or if they fail to get the right place at the right time, then the business will suffer. (Jackson, Shaw, 2001). In this way, the trend forecasters have to collect information on the consumers and feed it to the buyers and designers to produce what they will want but also stay true to their vision. 16

FILM REPRESENTATION

‘T

he Devil Wears Prada’, fashion film classic, discusses the theory of how trends evolve. Miranda Priestly, a powerful fashion magazine editor, describes the trickle-down theory to her less fashion orientated assistant. “You’re also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns…and then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. And then it, uh, filtered down throughout the department stores and then trickled down into some tragic Casual Corner where you go, no doubt, hat exempts fished it out of some clearance bin. However the blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and it’s sort of comical how you think you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry.” The trickle-down theory is one that starts at the top of the chain with designers showcasing their designs in S/S or A/W which eventually trickles down through the chains to highstreet to the everyday consumer. (Appendix for model)

ROLE OF MEDIA SOCIAL MEDIA

Gen Z is the generation of the social media. They’ve grown up with the internet being a huge impact on their life and their fashion sense. Everyday we’re constantly bombarded with information which eventually feeds into our everyday life.

Instagram is one of them most popular social media platforms providing fast visuals influencing the popularity of trends. Consumers are creating trends on Instagram which is shared with millions of people therefore can effect the popularity of individual products. Working in Zara, I notice customers coming in looking for items found through Instagram. Seeing influencers such as Zoella wearing a Zara top on instagram persuades the customers to buy into the brand as they trust her opinion.

Social media is often the representation of the bubble up theory which starts with the consumers and then works its way up to the designers. Since the 80s the consumers have been huge influence on the trends and what is designed at the higher end of production. No longer the days where we’re told each season by the designers what is on trend. Trends are now carefully planned to serve the need of the consumer (appendix for model).

PRINT MEDIA

On many occasions, it has previously been stated that print is a dying art. Can magazines really maintain the readership when we have information at the end of our fingertips on our smartphones.

The Guardian however argues that while the internet is a magnificent resource, and the prospect of having our primary media source composed of usergenerated content is wonderful and liberating, will humanity ever accept the idea of completely ephemeral media? (Maclean, 2010)

O w n i n g something physical, that you can look back to in yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; time is the value in print. Although magazines are not as fast paced as the internet, they are still a key source of inspiration to consumers, designers and trend forecasters. They portray the current zeitgeist through a wider, more in-depth analysis and offer high street alternatives to the catwalk trends.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Newspapers and magazines are acting as the main source of information to the end customer and act as the connecting link between the fashion industry and the consumer.â&#x20AC;? 21

-Bredemeier, 2010

SS17 TRENDS

HIGH STREET

Increase in political distress across the US but also UK has caused the consumers to be more economically and socially aware which influence their attitude towards clothing. The 80s were all about power dressing, bold colours, prints and most importantly making statements. (Fogg, 2009) The trend has been showcased for S/S through Gucci and their bold prints but also Balenciaga and the colour tights. Another way has been though statement tshirts which has already taken over the highstreet showcasing in Zara and Topshop. The trend however started with the season famous Dior tshirts stating, ‘we should all be feminists.’ This trickled down to highstreet having tshirts quoting ‘women of the future’ in Topshop.

CATWALK 23

80s

CATWALK

ATHLEISURE With the increase in health consciousness in consumers, athleisure has exploded. 2017 will be at the height of the athleisure trend with it being more than just trainers and sweats. (Sim, 2017)

The athleisure trend started out of practicality, consumers needed leggings to work out in. The trend however has evolved to high fashion with designers such as Versace, Alexander Wang and DKNY showcasing true fashion in comfort. The designers are playing with contrasting colours but most importantly innovation in fabrics. The high street isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as innovative as the designers as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appropriated for a mass public however high street athleisure has improved massively offering smart fabrics in Primark.

HIGH STREET

Stripes are the classic pattern that is in any season. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that basic everyone needs in their wardrobe. The trend origins from the 1930 when Coco Chanel incorporated the pattern in her collections. The trend however goes back even further to the French naval uniforms and beachwear.

STATEMENT STRIPES For SS/17 the trend, like other trends, has turned more radical and experimentative. (Gibbons, 2017) With maximalism being the megatrend of the year, all trends are reinvented for the more confident consumer. Designers such as Fendi, Jasper Conran and Proenza Schouler have adapted the classic pattern through deconstruction of the form.

CATWALK

MEGATREND: MAXIMALISM

Minimalism is out and maximalism is in. Ever since Gucci did the more maximalist collection for S/S16, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trickled down to the highstreet since then to serve the everyday consumer. (Doherty, 2016) From tshirts with bold prints and colours, to excessive accessories. Maximalism is the overarching megatrend for 2017.

High street retailers have however adopted the maximalism trend to stay on top of their game. Zara for example has been known for their minimalist looks and muted colour palettes. The brand has however taken on the influence of Gucci, as it’s a popular trend, with fuchsia colours and deconstruction of garments and bold prints.

Iris Apfel is the fashion icon who has been having her moment for a few years now. The 95-year-old business woman is known for her extravagant and maximalism style. In 2014, a documentary came out about her life which brought her name to the media and gave her a lot of recognition amongst the younger demographic.

“Life is grey and dull, you might as well have a little fun when you dress.” – Iris Apfel, 2014

The trend of pink has taken many forms over the past 5 years. In 2016 the baby pink shade was very popular with one of the Pantone colours of the year being Rose Quartz which meant that the dusky pink was the colour of the season.

PINK

With the 80s trend, the pink trend has taken a more radical turning to the fuchsia shade which was very popular then. Although the specific shade can come across as flashy and off putting, the fuchsia trend has taken a turn into workwear which isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a colour that you would normally associate with formal.

CATWALK The trend has started at the top with designers such as Balenciaga, Hermes and Delpozo showcasing their fuchsia pieces. High street retailers have also started to stock this trend for the everyday consumer. This consists of pink suits, jumpsuits and blouses which weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve spotted in the Nottingham Next, Topshop and Zara.

HIGH STREET

PSYCHOLOGY OF PINK Pink is more than just a colour. Like other colours, pink has its own connotations of suggested meanings behind it. Pink is the stereotypically girly colour and blue is the boys colour. In the past 10 years however, stereotypes are broken with gender blurring and a more open society where colours donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t allocate our gender. There is also scientific research done to prove that the colour pink has soothing aspects and can reduce stress from as little as 15 min. Baker Miller Pink is a shade of pink that is used in prison cells in the US and Switzerland which is meant to promote tranquillity among the prisoners. (Colour Matters, 2017) It has been argued however that the use of pink is a form of humiliation.

NOTTINGHAM TREND TRACKING

Nottingham is one of the most fashion orientated city across the UK having a very creative vibe. Trent University has a wide range of creative degrees bringing in creatives from all across the UK but also abroad. It is also the home of the famous Paul Smith.

When going out to observe the Nottingham consumers we noticed a lot of fashion orientated people wearing the most recent trends, this was more apparent nearer the university campus but also Victoria Centre. In the Nottingham square although there are a lot more people, they tend to be passer-byers ranging from all professions and statuses. A lot of the time the people arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as interested in trends especially when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an older demographic. In terms of the pink trend we came across older woman wearing it more often than the younger demographic. Ranging from fuchsia tank tops to pink trousers (more in street interviews). 35

FUCHSIA PINK MOODBOARD

STREET INTERVIEWS Liis, age 18 What made you wear pink today? I love colourful things. I always try to have some colour on me whether that’s clothes or makeup.

What do you find appealing about the pink trend? It just makes your day nicer if you’re wearing some colour. I love my fuchsia Michael Kors bag, its one of my best purchases and I have it on me everyday and it fits everything that I need.

Sally, age 42 What made you wear pink today? The weather. When it gets sunny I just love wearing bright colours, it makes me feel happy.

What do you find appealing about the pink trend? I just always go for more brighter colours when the weather gets nice and there’s a shortage of that in the shops. I can never find anything when I go shopping. 38

Daisy, age 21, works for Topshop Have you noticed Topshop stocking the fuchsia trend? Yeah, the back of the store is our colour brights section which is the most popular.

Who have you noticed to buy into the trend? Well I’ve noticed older people buy the fuchsia colours. Youngers people go more for our denim collection. I think it’s because the fuchsia things we have are more smart and it puts younger people as they dress more casual.

Sophie, age 20, works for Urban Outfitters Have you noticed Urban Outfitters stocking the fuchsia trend? Not particularly. We currently have the classic 90s collection which features brands such as Adidas, the Florals and lastly we have the New Romantics which isn’t that popular.

Which one is the most popular? Definitely the florals. Because the weather is getting better we have more girls buying the flowery skirts and dresses. The customers that we get are a bit more low key. I think it’s just the vibe of Urban Outfitters, it doesn’t fit into the bolder trends at the minute.

SALES ASSISTANT INTERVIEWS 39

STYLING SHOOT

PHOTOSHOOT CONCEPT After in depth analysis of the trend and high street observation the theme for the photoshoot became workwear fuchsia. Since the trend has been interpreted through smart dressing we wanted to reflect that in the images. Looking at the 80’s inspiration, we wanted to create this confident modern working woman. After model consideration we wanted to images to show a story of her day. The story would show her walking to work, working in office, getting lunch, glaming for some cocktails and circulating back to walking out. The first and last shot are cyclical which rounded up the ‘story’ and brought some realness to it. We really wanted to show across the girlboss aspect which came across through locations, body language but mostly the use of block colours. We worked with the fuchsia shade alongside yellow and deep blue to show contrast.

PRINT INSPIRATION

We looked through magazines to see how the trend is being styled. If it’s steered in the smart direction or more casual. In the May edition of Harper’s Bazaar, there was a feature called Colour and Contract which really stood out. The spreads featured vivid and vibrant makeup looks paired with the pre-fall 2017 collection. (Roitfeld, 2017) I really liked the styling of this because the location was your typical 80’s office, evident in the computer in the back ground, but also I really liked how you couldn’t see the models face in most shots, it’s all about the clothing.

LOCATION

When we had a concept, we took some test shots in different locations. For the first and last shot we chose a plain wall making the story cyclical. The choice of this location shows how she walks past it every day to work and when sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going out.

In the second shot we wanted to show a typical day in the office. We had an idea of taking the shot on a lower angle making the chair big and showing emphasis on the accessories rather than the outfit.

In the third shot we wanted to show the model grabbing lunch. The shot will show her busy lifestyle, on the go. The sign ‘takeaway’ worked to our advantage in this statement. We also struggled to capture the architecture in the shot however when we discussed the concept with a photographer he suggested grabbing the building in a perfect square.

In the fourth shot we wanted to grab the model getting ready to go out for cocktails. She’s getting ready in the work toilets because she’s always on the go. The blue in this particular toilet worked really well as it showed a nice contrast between the yellow (fuchsia for actual shots) and the blue. We also had the Victoria Centre toilets in mind which have a ‘dressing room’ vibe however out of practicality we didn’t use the idea.

CHOICE OF PRODUCT

DAY LOOK

The first outfit is your typical office work-wear featuring a tailored, but also loose blazer and some shorts which gave the classic suit an edge. The outfit was the perfect day look. It was paired with some metallic pink block heels from Primark, perfect for everyday wear. For accessories we added a block colour clutch bag from Accessorize. The yellow on the bag worked really well with the fuchsia on the suit whereas a pink one would have been too much going on.

NIGHT LOOK

For the night look we wanted to create a smooth transition changing just the top. This creates the ‘onthe-go illusion’ and the location supports that, suggesting it’s the office toilets. The detail of the back of the top created a focus point for shots with the models back in.

BLOG POST

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, through in-depth primary and secondary research, the Fuchsia trend is a one that’s likely to stay around for the season however it’s unlikely to transition to Autumn/Winter due to it being a flamboyant colour. Autumn/Winter colours tend to be colder tones such as brown, khaki and burgundy. From street interviews I’ve found that the older demographic dress according to season, Spring is where they will take out brighter colours where the younger demographic tend it play it more safe choosing denim and paler colours or as popular in Urban Outfitters, florals. The lifecycle of the trend seems to be reliant on the current distressed zeitgeist which will likely change in the foreseeable future. Choosing fuchsia is more that just choosing a colour, it’s about choosing a statement to wear for the day which supports the current support for women empowerment. 51

Ethics Clause I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project. Signed....................................................

Date ...../...../........

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