Don Lee's BBQ U. Cookbook by Donald A. Lee Executive Search

DONALD A. LEE EXECUTIVE SEARCH WWW.DONLEE.COM

DON LEE’S BBQ U. COOKBOOK

Don Lee’s BBQ U. Cookbook Introduction Chef’s Tips for Beginners..........................................................................1 Food Safety .................................................................................................1

Dry Rubs Dry Rib Rub for Pulled Pork ....................................................................2 Paul Kirk's Barbecue Rub for Chicken ...................................................3 Lone Star Dry Rub - All Purpose .............................................................3

Brining Article: Cook’s Illustrated- About Brining...............................................4 Memphis Minnie's Basic Brine for Chicken ©........................................4 Apple-Brined Whole Turkey ....................................................................5 Article: Flavor, Moisture Return through Ancient Technique ............ 6-7 Article: Smoking Fish ................................................................................8 Citrus Smoked Trout .................................................................................9 Vanilla-Smoked Salmon ............................................................................9

Barbequing Pulled Pork ...............................................................................................10 Pulled Pork Sandwiches ..........................................................................10

Barbeque Sauces Texas Ranch Style BBQ Sauce - Spicy and a little Sweet .....................11 Golden Mustard Barbecue Sauce for Pork ...........................................11 Vinegar Sauce for Pulled Pork –Frank Boyer’s....................................12

Sides and Other Favorites Memphis Minnie's Tart and Tangy Slaw© ...........................................12 Flynn's Favorite Cornbread Recipe .......................................................12 Buttermilk Biscuits ..................................................................................13 Topolo Margarita .....................................................................................13

Information Wood Type, Characteristics, and Good Food Matches........................14 Smokers .....................................................................................................15 Resources: Cookbooks, websites.............................................................16 The Tale of the Left Handed Brisket.................................................. 17-18 Contributors .............................................................................................18 Cover pictures taken by Don Lee. Clockwise from top left: City Market pits, Llano, TX Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que coals, New Braunfels, TX Kreuz Market pits, Luling, TX Outside at The Salt Lick, Driftwood, TX Outside at Cooper’s The Salt Lick pits

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Resist the temptation to check your progress every 10 minutes! Heat escapes every time you open the smoker, and as much as 25 degrees of heat can be lost. Add briquettes or charcoal quickly, and if possible, do not lift the lid more than you need to do this. Great Q takes time! Use a meat thermometer to make sure that smoke-cooked foods are done but not overcooked. Smoke-cooked foods look different than other grilled or ovenprepared foods. They may be pink or red inside when completely cooked and should also be somewhat juicy. Use tongs to turn or pick up meats. A watering can works great for refilling the water pan. Use care and BBQ mitts to adjust air vents. Do not use charcoal infused with starter fluid – it can add an unpleasant taste to your smoked foods. Hardwood charcoal, such as Lazari brand, is recommended. Experiment with different woods and meats until you find the right combination for your tastes. Take notes on wood amounts and combinations, and results so you can repeat successes.

Plan for the proper handling and preparation of all food items to prevent food borne illness. Remember the following tips when handling food: • Keep perishable foods such as meat, poultry and fresh vegetables refrigerated until they are ready to be cooked or prepared. • Thaw all frozen meats in the refrigerator, not at room temperature. • Keep uncooked, cooked and prepared foods covered as much of the time as possible. Use foil on containers without lids. • Never reuse raw material containers, such as poultry or meat boxes or vegetable containers, for holding cooked foods. • Always wash and sanitize the cutting board, pans and lugs before reusing for cooked foods. Keep all food containers and equipment clean. • Provide hand washing facilities at the outdoor cooking sites and always keep your hands clean. • Provide clean hot water for cleaning during outdoor cooking. A fish fryer or gas stove can be used to heat water for washing equipment and utensils. • Don't handle food if you have cuts or sores on your hands. Cover with a bandage and use gloves. • Keep cold foods cold (below 40º F) and hot foods hot (above 140º F) when holding before serving. • Promptly chill leftovers to below 40º F in shallow containers less than four inches deep immediately after serving is complete.

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Dry Rubs Create your own signature rub for Ribs and Chicken: • Dry rubs are any combination of spices used to flavor meat, poultry, fish or seafood before smoking. • Most rubs call for salt and sugar, and many also include a chile or two for heat. I recommend trying just salt and black pepper on your first couple of batches of smoked food. It is the only "rub" I use on my brisket. • Once you have tasted the basic flavor of your smoked food, you can gradually add a complimentary accent to your rub, such as: ∼ a dried herb, spice or chile powder (thyme, dill, cumin, paprika) ∼ brown or while sugar (use sparingly as sugar will burn at the higher temperatures), and/or ∼ any form of dried garlic and onion (which I don't normally recommend but which seems to work better with barbeque, as opposed to fresh). • Rubs will keep indefinitely but lose potency after a year - make a new batch each season. • Sprinkle your rub liberally on the product you are going to smoke, evenly, thoroughly and under the skin if you can, and allowed to sit for an hour or two before smoking.

Some favorite recipes to get you started creating your own signature BBQ Rub: Dry Rib Rub for Pulled Pork - for a 6-7# pork butt or shoulder (from CHILE PEPPER magazine - the Swine Swizzlers used this rub to win prizes at the Jack Daniel's contest in Tennessee)

1 T Hot Hungarian paprika 11⁄2 T dried onion flakes 1 T dried garlic flakes 1 T dried basil leaves 1 T dried oregano leaves 13⁄4 T ground cumin 1 T lemon salt 1 T fresh ground black pepper 1 T cayenne pepper 1 t cayenne pepper flakes (One tip is to cut around the shoulder bone and place rub in there too. Do this and smoke it till 185ºF for sliced, 195ºF for pulled and "you won't be disappointed".)

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Paul Kirk's Barbecue Rub for Chicken 1/2 cup cane sugar 1/4 cup onion salt 2 tablespoons Lawry's seasoned salt 2 tablespoons Lawry’s garlic salt 1/4 cup paprika 1 tablespoon chili seasoning or powder 1 tablespoon Lawry’s Lemon Pepper 2 teaspoon rubbed sage 1 teaspoon dried sweet basil 1 teaspoon dried crushed rosemary 1/2 teaspoon cayenne

Lone Star Dry Rub - All Purpose (from Texas Home Cooking, Jamison and Jamison, 1993)

3/4 C paprika (good quality Hungarian preferred to "red sawdust") 1/4 C ground black pepper 1/4 C chili powder (Gebhardt's preferred) 1/4 C salt 1/4 C white sugar 2 T garlic powder 2 T onion powder 1 T cayenne (get a fresh bottle for best "kick") My dry rub notes:

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Here's what Cook's Illustrated (Nov/Dec 1997) said about brining: "Our previous turkey articles found that brining made a significant improvement in the overall flavor and texture of the meat. We were concerned that if we stuffed a brined bird, the stuffing might emerge over-salted. Much to our joy, however, we found that this was not the case. "In fact, the benefits of brining are many fold. First, brining provides a cushion for the breast meat, so even if it overcooks by ten degrees F or so, it remains moist. Secondly, the meat of a brined bird tastes pleasantly seasoned, which eliminates the need to season before and after roasting. Because the turkey sits overnight in a tub of salted water, brining also ensures that all parts of the turkey are at the same temperature. Yet another benefit is that the turkey meat absorbs water during the brining process. Water is a heat conductor and therefore expedites cooking. We tested this theory and found that indeed a brined bird cooks faster than an unbrined one by about 30 minutes. Lastly, brining may help inhibit growth of certain types of bacteria. So while it may seem like added work, dunking the bird in the brine is worth it for a whole host of reasons." Cook's Illustrated's brine is simply 2 cups kosher salt or 1 cup table salt dissolved in 2 gallons cold water in large stock pot or clean bucket (kosher salt and table salt do not weigh the same!) Submerge the turkey and refrigerate or set it in very cool (40ºF or less) spot for 8 - 12 hours. Remove the turkey from the brine and rinse both cavity and skin under cool water for several minutes until all traces of salt are gone. Pat dry inside and out with paper towels; set aside. Once the turkey has been brined, it may be oven baked or smoker cooked in the normal manner. For more information and brining times for other meats and poultry, consult the ‘Operating Tips & Mods’ FAQs on http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/brining.html#amount

Memphis Minnie's Basic Brine for Chicken © 2 C Kosher Salt 2 C Sugar 1 Gal Water Mix salt and sugar together in a clean plastic container large enough to hold both chicken and brine. Pour in two cups of the water and stir to dissolve the salt/sugar mixture before adding the rest of the liquid. Submerge chickens in brine, refrigerate, and brine for 4 hours for chicken 1/4's or parts and 8 hours for 1/2s or whole chickens before smoking. As the brine will bring moisture to the skin as well as the meat, air drying the chickens on a rack for an hour or more (refrigerated) will help to crisp the skin during the smoking process.

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Apple-Brined Whole Turkey (from www.virtualweberbullet.com)

1 12-14 pound turkey 2 quarts apple juice 16 oz brown sugar 1 cup Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt 3 quarts cold water 3 oranges, quartered 4 oz fresh ginger, sliced thin 15 whole cloves 6 bay leaves 6 large garlic cloves, crushed unsalted butter, melted Substitute 3/4 cup Morton Kosher Salt or 1/2 cup table salt for Diamond Crystal Combine apple juice, brown sugar, and salt in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve. Boil for one minute, remove from heat, and let mixture come to room temperature. In a large non-reactive container, combine the room temp apple juice mixture with the other ingredients and stir. Place rinsed, drained whole turkey into the brine. Use a heavy weight to keep the bird submerged, if necessary. Refrigerate for 24 hours. Remove turkey from brine and pat dry. Allow the turkey to sit at room temperature for one hour before cooking. Brush with melted butter and place on vertical roasting rack. Cook at 250-300º F to 170-175º F in the thigh, 160-165º F in the breast. For crispy skin: Instead of cooking immediately after brining and patting dry, place the turkey on a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Allow the turkey to air dry uncovered in the refrigerator overnight. Let the turkey sit at room temperature for one hour before cooking. Fire the WSM with a full ring of hot coals and with the water pan in place, foillined but without water. Brush the turkey with melted butter and place on the top cooking grate, breast side up. Cook with all vents wide open, 400º F for 30 minutes, then adjust lower vents to ramp temp down to 350º F. Cook to 170-175º F in the thigh, 160-165º F in the breast. “Try this recipe this summer, before impressing your Thanksgiving guests with something different!” Susan Flynn My brining notes:

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An interesting article and some good ideas for other applications: "Flavor, Moisture Return through Ancient Technique" by Bret Thorn, Nation's Restaurant News, August 21, 2000

In a burgeoning trend that's bringing flavor and moisture back to low-fat poultry and meat, chefs nationwide are resurrecting the ancient preservation technique of brining. The process involves soaking meat in liquid with salt and often sugar and various other flavorings. It softens the proteins and allows moisture and flavor to penetrate deeply into the meat. The added moisture also means cooking times don't have to be quite so precise. "It's the best culinary technique I have learned in my career," says Robert Carter, executive chef of the Peninsula Grill at the Planters Inn in Charleston, S.C. He brines his double-cut pork chop in water, sugar, salt, bay leaves, onion, garlic and whole black peppercorns for eight hours before marinating it in olive oil with garlic, black pepper and rosemary. He then grills it and roasts it to 130 degrees. In the days before refrigeration, packing food in salt or soaking it in brine before smoking or drying it were important ways of making sure that protein procured during times of plenty also would be available during leaner months. Having enough food is no longer an issue for the developed world, although problems of distribution still exist. In fact, Americans on average eat more meat than ever before; consequently the drive to get rid of fat has made its way into breeding practices. Our poultry and pork have much less fat than they used to, which means they tend to dry out more quickly when cooked and to be less flavorful than in the past. To compensate for that lost flavor and moisture Jennifer Cox, executive chef at Montage in San Francisco, soaks her small 2.5 pound chickens in a salt-sugar mixture for a day. "We had someone send the chicken back -- and this is no lie -- because they said it must be undercooked because there was so much juice coming off of it," she says. Brining works similarly to the way cooking does: It alters the nature of proteins by breaking some of the weak bonds that give the proteins their shape. According to David Krauss, a professor of biology at Boston College, those bonds are sensitive to changes in temperature, acidity and salinity, causing the proteins themselves to break down a bit in brines and allowing the salt, sugar, and other flavoring agents to permeate the food's flesh. In brine, all of the ingredients generally are brought to a boil to dissolve the salt and sugar and to help infuse the liquid with other seasonings. Then the mixture is chilled before the meat is added. Matthew Nolot, executive chef at the Orchard Ridge Country Club in Fort Wayne, Ind., speeds up the process of making brine by simmering a concentrated mixture and then adding ice water to cool it down. Adding the ice water also brings the salt and sugar levels to the proportions he wants.

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The amount of salt and sugar that chefs use in their brines varies considerably. Todd Downs, executive chef at the Sand Creek Country Club in Chesterton, Ind., uses just 2 ounces of kosher salt and a cup of sugar for a gallon of liquid in his brines. On the other hand, Waldy Malouf of Beacon in New York City and Stamford, Conn., uses a pound each of salt and sugar for each gallon of liquid. Downs says he has been brining all of his pork for the past nine years and is especially proud of his pork tenderloin sandwiches, which take on added flavor from a bourbonand-water brine. He flattens a 4-ounce piece of tenderloin in a Swiss steak machine and brines it in a mixture of bourbon, water, sugar, salt, rosemary, thyme, mustard seed, garlic, allspice, black peppercorns and bay leaf for two hours. The pork is breaded with cracker crumbs and fresh herbs to order. Thicker cuts of pork must be brined for longer periods, says Downs, so his 1.5-inch chop is brined for 12 to 18 hours. Baby back ribs are brined overnight, a pork loin for 24 hours, and turkey is brined for up to two-and-a-half days. Downs also bastes the turkey with the brine as it cooks. For his ribs, Downs uses beer as the brining liquid. "It's kind of a natural pairing for ribs," he says. "The flavors go well together." He says the time should be reduced if the brining liquid is acidic, such as cider or wine, and warns that over-brining can make the protein mushy. Malouf of Beacon points out that brining is especially useful for proteins such as poultry that need to be cooked to a certain temperature. "By brining them you're adding a moisture content to the meat that stays there during and through and after the cooking process," he says. Malouf brines a 2-inch pork chop for eight hours before it is cold smoked and grilled. "I wanted a grilled, smoked pork chop, but I didn't want one that was basically a grilled ham," he says, so he removes the pork before it's brined all the way through. Brining is not only good for allowing well-done meats to retain moisture, it also can reduce cooking time. Since the worm that causes Trichinosis is no longer present in American pork, it is now safe enough that it doesn't have to be cooked well done. However, Jim McKinney, chefowner of Club Grotto in Louisville, Ky., couldn't convince his customers of that. "If they see pink in a pork chop, they think they're going to get sick," he says. By brining his 12ounce pork chop for 24 hours in a mixture of kosher salt, brown sugar, fresh rosemary and juniper berries, some of the blood is drawn out and McKinney can cook it to just 140 degrees without hearing any complaints. "And the flavor it packs is incredible," he says. His brine is 28 percent salt and 10 percent brown sugar. The sugar in brines helps in the coloration of poultry, according to Dan DelVecchio, cuisine and design developer at Jean Georges in New York. "It gives the bird a nice caramelization," he says.

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Smoking Fish From a posting from one of the "amateurs" on www.smokering.net, a wonderful way to lose a couple of hours… -Susan Flynn

"The preservation of fish has been an integral part of every seafaring culture. Over the course of thousands of years of drying, salting and smoking fish the technique has developed to a point where once common food has become a delicacy… Cold smoking requires temperatures of around 80º for several days. Hot smoking however can be done at temperatures of up to 200º and it only takes a few hours. It is best to start with a salt water brine. The brining process is quick so don't worry about having to start out the day before. Plan on the fish being in the brine for about 15 minutes per 1/2 inch of thickness. Also plan on 1 quart of brine per pound of fish. The brine can be simply salt and water: 2 1/2 tablespoons of non-iodized plain salt per cup of water. If you want to use tap water, let it sit in a large container without a lid to let the chlorine dissipate. The brine can also contain whatever seasonings you choose to add. You can replace some of the water with white wine, or you can add peppercorns, brown sugar, or any seasoning that you like with fish. But what kind of fish to use? Any fish will work. However fattier fish will absorb more smoke flavor, so fish like salmon and trout are perfect for smoking. You can use whole fish or parts, but fillets with the skin still on are better than other cuts. Most any kind of wood will work, but you might wish to use woods like alder or fruit woods. Salmon is usually smoked with alder, a tradition that dates back to the indigenous peoples of the northwestern United States. Of course you can use mesquite, oak or whatever your favorite smoke maker is. Because of the short smoke times, mesquite will not have a chance to impart too bitter of a taste, but I recommend using it sparingly. If you can maintain a low smoking temperature, below 150º F for the first hour or two, then the fish will have more time to absorb smoke flavor. Turn up the heat after 2 hours to around 200º F to finish it off (if the filet is thick). Make sure that the fish is heated all the way through to at least 165º F. Remember when it comes to low temperature cooking it is always better to be safe than sorry. On a final note, I would like to point out that not only does smoked fish make a great meal or appetizer, it also makes a great ingredient. Try taking the meat from a smoked trout or similar fish and blend it together with some cream cheese, garlic, salt and pepper and you suddenly have a great spread for crackers. Many recipes call for smoked fish, from soups to salads to main courses. With the knowledge of fish smoking under your belt you will be able to make these dishes even better with home smoked fish."

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Citrus Smoked Trout 1/2 C kosher salt 1/2 c white or brown sugar 2 T onion powder 2 T garlic powder 1 T freshly ground black pepper Zest of 3-4 lemons, finely grated This simple recipe can be used two ways, as a seasoning in a brine or as a dry cure. Either way, mix all ingredients well. To make a brine, add all above mixture to 4 cups of water. Place trout filets in brine and let sit, refrigerated, for about 1 hour. Remove filets and air dry in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. (Strain brine and rub zest and spices on the flesh side of the filets, if you'd like more citrus flavor). Proceed to smoke 1 hour at 200º F or until trout flakes easily and is medium mahogany colored. Or, sprinkle about 2 T of mixture on the flesh side of each trout and rub lightly to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate 12 hours or overnight (longer will dry out the fish and make it salty); rinse, pat dry and refrigerate uncovered for a couple of hours to air dry. Smoke for about 1 hour at 200º F, as above.

Vanilla-Smoked Salmon A killer recipe from Brannan's Restaurant, Calistoga, CA, you must begin preparation 2 days before serving - keeps well after smoking… -Susan Flynn. Appeared in the Wednesday, November 29, 2000, SF Chronicle.

1 cup kosher salt 3 vanilla beans (Trader Joe's has then for cheap) 1 whole salmon fillet, about 1 1/2 pounds (bones removed - skin on) Zest of 1 lemon 1 cup packed brown sugar 1 cup applewood chips To brine the salmon: Using a food processor, grind the salt and vanilla beans until well blended. Add zest and brown sugar and pulse briefly to combine. In the bottom of a large casserole or Pyrex baking dish, sprinkle a third of the salt mixture. Cut slashes 1/8-inch deep on skin side of the filet. Place salmon on top of the salt, skin side down. Cover salmon completely with remaining salt mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 48 hours. Prepare smoker or make your own by using a regular grill in which 6 briquettes have been placed in the bottom of the barbecue grill. Light them and allow them to become fully white in color. Using tongs, place hot briquettes in a coffee can or a small stainless steel bowl along with soaked wood chips. Place this bowl inside a larger stainless bowl filled with ice. Remove salmon from salt mixture. Rinse in cold water. Pat dry with paper towels. Place bowls filled with the hot briquettes and ice on grate of grill and arrange the salmon around it. Cover grill and allow the fish to cold smoke (at about 180º - 200º F) for 2 hours, adding extra ice to the bowl if necessary.

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Barbequing Pulled Pork - Serves 10-12 Adapted from Dotty Griffith's Celebrating Barbecue (Simon and Schuster, 2002) One 6-7 pound pork butt or shoulder roast Dry Rib Rub for Pulled Pork (see recipe under ‘Dry Rubs’ section above) 1. Sprinkle a generous layer of the rub on all surfaces of the pork roast. Using your hands (preferably gloved to prevent spices from burning your eyes or skin), rub the mixture into the meat. Wrap the meat in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or overnight. 2. Remove the pork from the refrigerator and unwrap about 1 hour before placing on the grill to let it come to room temperature. 3. Soak the wood chips in water at least 1 hour before you begin grilling. 4. Prepare a fire by lighting wood or a combination of wood and charcoal in the firebox of a cooker or at the end of a barrel smoker opposite the end with the vent or chimney. Or preheat a gas smoker/grill. 5. When the fire has burned down to glowing embers or the coals are covered with gray ash, place the pork, fat side up, on the grate but not directly over the coals. Or place a full pan of water over the coals or hot lava rocks, then position the grate and add the pork. 6. Cover the cooker and smoke the pork shoulder, turning it every hour or so, until it is tender and the internal temperature reaches 195°F on an instant-read thermometer, 4 to 6 hours. [Tester's note: 195°F yields well-done meat.] 7. Tend the fire by adding wood (or wood embers from a separate fire) or coals to keep it from going out and to keep the temperature inside the cooker between 225°F and 300°F. If using a mop, brush it on when turning the pork or after tending the fire. Add soaked chips as needed to maintain the smoke flavoring. 8. Remove the pork from the cooker and allow it to rest, covered loosely with foil, for about 15 minutes. 9. Wearing insulated food gloves* peel away and discard the skin layer. Then, with your fingers or two forks, pull the pork into thin pieces about 1 by 2 inches. (For sliced pork: trim off the exterior skin and fat and slice very thin.) *Search online ‘insulated food gloves’; one source: http://mcreynoldsfarms.com/insulated-food-gloves-p23.html

Pulled Pork Sandwiches Pulled pork (above) 8 to 10 sandwich/hamburger buns Coleslaw – any creamy style Frank Boyer’s Vinegar Sauce for Pulled Pork (see recipe under ‘Barbeque Sauces’ below) Add vinegar sauce to taste to heated pulled pork prior to serving. Have extra sauce handy in a squeeze bottle for people to add as they choose. Build sandwich by placing on bun: pulled pork, more vinegar sauce optionally, and a scoop of coleslaw.

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Barbeque Sauces Every major barbeque region in the United States has a typical style of sauce to compliment its own barbeque specialty. But, as with rub "secrets", the variations within this style are staggering. There are probably as many recipes for barbeque sauces as there are pitmasters. Here are three typical sauces, adapted from Smoke and Spice, by Jamison and Jamison (see bibliography): a spicy Texas ranch style sauce; a yellow mustard based sauce, such as you would find in the South Carolina and Georgia, and a southeastern vinegar sauce that's also often served with pork. Texas Ranch Style BBQ Sauce - Spicy and a little Sweet Good on brisket, ribs and chicken - makes about 4 Cups

1 T canola oil 2 C onions, chopped 2-3 jalapenos, minced (these are hot) 2-3 Serrano chiles, minced (these are hotter!) 8 cloves garlic, chopped 1 C catsup 3/4 C Worcestershire sauce 3/4 C strong black coffee 1/3 C dark molasses 1/4 C cider vinegar 1/4 c lemon juice 1/4 C chili powder (preferably Gebhardt's) 2 T yellow mustard 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin 1 1/2 tsp salt Saute onions, garlic and chiles in oil until softened. Mix in the remaining ingredients and simmer for 35-40 minutes, until vegetables are quite soft. Cool slightly and strain out veggies. Puree veggies in blender and add back into sauce. Mix well. Sauce is better the next day when the flavors have mingled and mellowed - this sauce will keep for weeks in the refrigerator. Golden Mustard Barbecue Sauce for Pork 1 C white vinegar 3/4 c prepared yellow mustard 1/2 med onion, minced 1/3 c water 1/4 C tomato puree 1 T paprika (Hungarian preferred) 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper Mix all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and cook until onions are soft, about 25 minutes. This sauce can be served warm or cold - it will keep for two weeks in the refrigerator. Don Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s BBQ U. Cookbook | 11

Frank Boyer’s Vinegar Sauce for Pulled Pork Pulled pork needs vinegar and salt to enhance the flavor of the meat. This is a modified “Carolina” sauce that tones down the “vinegar bite” by using Balsamic vinegar. This recipe won a “Perfect Score” from all six judges at the 2002 California State BBQ Championship at Follows Camp. 1C Cider vinegar 1C Balsamic vinegar ¼ C Brown Sugar 1 T Crushed Red Pepper 2 T Sea Salt 1 t Cayenne Add all ingredients into a large saucepan stir and bring to a low boil for 10-15 minutes.

Sides and Other Favorites: Memphis Minnie's Tart and Tangy Slaw© Serves a large party and keeps well! Bob Kantor

3 heads green cabbage 2 red bell peppers, shredded 2 green bell peppers, shredded 5 carrots, peeled and shredded 1 lg red onion, thinly sliced 2 T ground black pepper 1 T kosher salt Toss all above ingredients, and make dressing: 1 Qt. white vinegar 5 lbs sugar Bring vinegar and sugar to a boil and cool. Pour over cabbage mixture and toss well.

Flynn's Favorite Cornbread Recipe - serves 4-6 generously from Anna Thomas, The Vegetarian Epicure (1972)

1 1/4 C unbleached white flour 3/4 C whole-grain corn meal (stone-ground if possible) 4 T Sugar 5 tsp baking powder 3/4 tsp salt 1 egg 1 C milk (I sometimes use buttermilk) 2 T melted butter Sift together dry ingredients. Beat the egg with the milk and add it to the flour mixture along with the melted butter. Mix well. Spread batter in a preheated 375º F oven for 3035 minutes until edges are lightly browned. Serve hot with sweet butter.

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Buttermilk Biscuits Adapted by Susan Flynn from The Bread Bible, Hensperger, (1999)

2 C unbleached, all purpose flour ("White Lily" low-gluten flour is best) 2 tsp baking powder 1/4 tsp baking soda 1/4 tsp salt 6 T unsalted butter, cut into chunks and chilled well 1 egg 3/4 C buttermilk, well chilled Sift together dry ingredients. Cut butter into flour using a pastry blender or two knives until mixture resembles large crumbs (you can do this by pulsing flour and butter together in the food processor). Leave some pea sized pieces of butter for ultra flaky biscuits. Mix egg and buttermilk together and add to flour mixture. Stir just to moisten ingredients - the dough will be "shaggy". Turn out onto lightly floured work surface and knead gently until dough just comes together. Pat into a rectangle about 3/4" thick and cut into biscuits with a 2-1/2" cutter. Lightly pack dough scraps together and cut additional biscuits. Place on parchment lined baking sheets about 1/2" apart and bake for 15-18 minutes until golden brown. Serve hot with butter or cream gravy. Variations: Add 3 T sugar for sweet tea biscuits or shortcakes. The secret to great, flaky biscuits is keeping the ingredients cold and not working the dough too much. World Famous TOPOLO MARGARITA - serves 6 - 8 (Rick Bayless, Frontera Grill, Chicago, IL - Courtesy of Uncle Duncan)

3/4 C fresh lime juice/about 3 large limes (No lime juice from a bottle, please!) 1 tsp finely grated lime zest (optional) 1 C water 6 tablespoons sugar (“superfine” sugar is best, it dissolves more easily) 1 C plus 2 T blanco tequila (a good white/silver or Reposado – save the anejo’s for sipping!) 1/4 cup Gran Torres orange liqueur Lime wedges Coarse salt (optional) About 1 ½ cups small (or coarsely broken) ice cubes Make limeade. 6 or more hours before serving, combine the lime juice, sugar and water in a pitcher. Cover and refrigerate if not using right away (but no longer than 24 hours). Finish and serve margaritas. Add the tequila and orange liqueur to the pitcher of limeade. Before serving, chill glasses and, if desired, rub rims of glasses with a lime wedge, then dip them in a dish of coarse salt. In a large shaker, combine the half of the margarita mixture with half of the ice and shake 10 to 15 seconds, then strain into the prepared glasses. Repeat with the rest of the mixture. mix all ingredients in a pitcher and let steep in the fridge. Add 3 to 4 cups ice cubes to mixture, stir (or better yet, in a shaker, and shake) and strain into glasses. Add lime wedge for garnish. Note: If Gran Torres orange liqueur isn’t available, sub with Cointreau and a splash of Grand Marnier. If using a really fine Tequila, only use Cointreau. Whatever you do, don’t use store bought mix!

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Hickory

Pungent, smoky, bacon-like flavor. Pork, chicken, beef, wild game, cheeses.

Pecan

Rich and more subtle than hickory, but similar in taste. Burns more slowly, so ideal for very low heat smoking. Pork, chicken, lamb, fish, cheeses.

Mesquite

Sweeter, more delicate flavor than hickory. Tends to burn hot, so use carefully. Most meats, especially beef. Most vegetables.

Alder

Delicate flavor that enhances lighter meats. Salmon, swordfish, sturgeon, other fish. Also good with chicken and pork.

Oak

Forthright but pleasant flavor. Blends well with a variety of textures and flavors (readily available in CA). Beef (particularly brisket), poultry, pork.

Maple

Mildly smoky, somewhat sweet flavor. Try mixing maple with corncobs for ham or bacon. Poultry, vegetables, ham.

Cherry

Slightly sweet, fruity smoke flavor. Game birds, pork.

Apple

Slightly sweet but denser, fruity smoke flavor. Poultry, game birds, pork (particularly ham).

Peach or Pear

Slightly sweet, woodsy flavor. Poultry, game birds, pork.

Grape Vines

Aromatic, similar to fruit woods. (Readily available in CA). Turkey, chicken, beef.

Wine Barrel Wine and oak flavors. A flavorful novelty that smells wonderful, too. Chips Beef, turkey, chicken, cheeses. Seaweed

Tangy and smoky flavors. (Wash and dry in sun before use.) Lobster, crab, shrimp, mussels, clams.

Generally, you should soak the wood chunks in water for at least one hour; chips (including wine barrel chips) and aromatic twigs (grape vines or fruit wood twigs) need only 30 minutes of soaking. Shake all excess water off woods before adding them to your fire or smoker box. You can find smoking woods in hardware stores and home centers–or if you’re lucky, in your own backyard!

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Smokers: OK, I'm hooked! Now, what smoker should I buy? Here is what the many of people on the California Barbeque Association BBQ List did when they started barbecuing: 1. They purchased an inexpensive water smoker. Charcoal-fired if they wanted to start off to learn barbecue and fire-control at the same time; electric or gas if they wanted to learn to barbecue with a minimum of hassle. Price of these units is between $28 and $60. 2. When their barbecue skills increased in a year or so, they wanted a 'better' smoker. They had to make a choice: •

Some liked the simplicity of the bullet water smoker, but wanted better temperature control. So they purchased the Weber Smokey Mountain Smoker. It is the world's best bullet water smoker, versatile and forgiving. Price of the Weber unit is about $170.

•

Some went with a traditional wood-burning off-set firebox smoker, purchasing the Brinkmann Smoke N' Pit Professional or the New Braunfels Hondo or Black Diamond. Price for these units is between $170 and $200.

•

Some went with a better Lazy-Q smoker, purchasing a Cookshack electric smoker or the Traeger pellet-fired smoker, prices between $485 and $1,200.

3. As their barbecue skills matured and their desire to smoke more meat at a time came about, they wanted a larger, premium smoker. Here the choice of how to go is much more complicated, but the barbecuer by this time knows exactly what he or she wants. •

Many List members have purchased a premium smoker from BBQ Pits by Klose.

•

Some have chosen a premium smoker made by Oklahoma Joe.

•

Others went in different directions: purchasing smokers by made by other manufacturers, taking the home-built road, and some went down the most ambitious road of all, building a permanent backyard smoker or even a smoke house. Price for pits on this road range between $500 and $2,500 and above.

Manufacturers’ web pages: www.bbqpits.com Klose website www.bradleysmoker.com Bradley electric smokers website (electric!) Don likes his. www.jrenterprises.com Jerry Roach’s BBQ smokers www.traegergrills.com Traeger wood pellet grills www.weberbbq.com Weber Smokey Mountain Bullet: a fine, affordable smoker

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Resources Recommended by contributing chefs Bob Kantor & Susan Flynn: Cookbooks we like – Smokestack Lightning: Adventures in the Heart of Barbeque, Lolis Eric Elie (1996) "This is a book about barbeque, not a recipe cookbook - great read" - Bob Kantor Southern Food at Home, on the Road and in History, John Edgeton, (1993) American Food (Culinaria series) North Carolina Barbecue, Bob Garner (1997) Texas BBQ, Paris Parmentier and John Bigley (1994) - “Describes various BBQ places in Texas - good reference for a road trip." – Susan Flynn Barbecuing, Grilling and Smoking, California Culinary Academy series (1988) "good reference book for timing and temperatures, side dishes, brines" - Susan Flynn The Thrill of the Grill, Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby (1990) - "More recipes for grilling than smoking, but he knows the difference at least!" - Susan Flynn BBQ America, Rick Brown and Jack Bettridge (1999) - "Picture book of their travels across America in search of true Q" - Susan Flynn Smoke and Spice: Cooking with Smoke, the Real Way to Barbeque (1994) & Texas Home Cooking (1993), both books by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison – “for lots and lots of useable recipes and practical information” - Susan Flynn Web sites we like www.thesmokering.net - a person could get lost here for days! www.cbbqa.com - the California Barbeque Association web site www.barbecuen.com/calendar.htm - lists BBQ contests and cookoffs

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I couldn't resist adding this tale of…

The Left Handed Brisket A few year back at the Texas State Finals, lovingly know as the "Meridian", several of us early birds would arrive on Thursday to get in line for the first come first serve pick of the best cook sites, to chosen on Friday. Thursday night was devoted to serious drinking hoping to pry secret tips out of other cooks. One of the better cooks there was ole Connie Baker of team "Li'l Pit of Heaven". He was throwing back quite a few of those Mexican beers with a chunk of lime stuck in the neck of the bottle. Connie had so many of them lime-aid beers that he was starting to smile with a pucker. As a matter of fact, some of the strangers started to scook away and look at him kind of funny. This was when I figured that ole Connie was ripe for the prying of secrets. One of us asked him how come his brisket was so tender and always placed in the top three. I thought to myself, boy oh boy, if loose lips sink ships then Ole Connie is going down tonight. All got quiet as he stuffed another lime in a long neck and said that he only cooks left handed briskets. He explained that most, but not all, steers rest on their left side, which means when they get up they have to push harder with their right legs. At this point about half of the bunch mummered something to the effect of “Bull Hockey” and went back to their 4 or 5 different conversations. A few of us noticed that ole Connie wasn't smirking. Hmmm, was he onto something? Two or three of us moved closer and I told him you can't stop there. What does pushing up with their right legs have to do with the left brisket. Ole Connie stuffed another lime and told us that when they push up with the right legs it flexes the right brisket muscle more so than the left. Therefore the right handed brisket will be tougher and less marbled than the left, not always but usually. Most everyone had written Connie off as a bull sheeter and not paying much attention to me and Connie. I had to know more and asked him how the heck do you tell a left handed brisket from the right. As expected he stuffed another lime and I mixed another Makers. He then told me that with the fat side down, on a left handed brisket, the point will curve to the right. Saturday awards time rolled around and Connie took 1st brisket and Grand Champ over 180+ of the best cooks in Texas. His next stop was gonna be the American Royal. I think that I came in 19th with my right handed brisket. I just could not get this left handed brisket thing off my mind. When we got home Sunday afternoon I stopped to look at the cows. Four were laying down and 3 were on their left side. Welp, I have been raising a few head of cattle for 24 years and this got me to thinking about what ole Connie had spilled out to us that night. I phoned the kin folk in LaGrange, Texas and told them the story and asked if they would check out their herd. Yep, you guessed it. Only 3 out of 37 consistently rested on their right side. Dangnation, Connie has got it going big time. I went to 5 different grocery stores and flexed briskets to see which sides were more limber and which ones were more marbled. Don Lee’s BBQ U. Cookbook | 17

I have found that there are exceptions to every rule. There are some right handed briskets that are more limber and marbled than the lefties but for the most part I find that the majority of the best pick comes from the left handed pile of briskets. Another exception to the rule is that you can find a Prime Grade quality brisket that is marked Select and a Select grade marked Choice. My rule of thumb is Flexibility and Marbleing. Evenness on the flat end is a plus. I'm going to inspect the lefties before I move on to the right handed ones. Welp, there it is folks. Take it or leave it. As Jack used to say in the 1950's Drag Net T-V Detective Show, "only the facts mam". Posted by Shingleman on www.bbqsearch.com

Contributors: Bob Kantor, chef-owner of Memphis Minnie's Barbeque Joint and Smokehouse in San Francisco, has traveled and sampled barbeque all over the South - and even judged several competitions - in his search for the perfect "Q". Well, he didn't find it, so he started his own "joint". Overcoming his (south) Brooklyn childhood and honoring his dear Memphis-born mother, Bob succeeded in mastering the fine art of slow-smoking and opened arguably the best BBQ restaurant in the Bay Area. He will haul in a Texasbuilt J & R smoker on a trailer for an on-site demonstration. Taking a trip outside California to BBQ country? Bob has traveled extensively in the south, attending contests and gathering stories. He would be happy to recommend restaurants or places of interest - email him at bob@memphisminnies.com - or better yet, visit him at the restaurant: Memphis Minnie's Barbeque Joint & Smokehouse 576 Haight Street, San Francisco, CA 94117 (415) 864-PORK www.memphisminnies.com Susan Flynn: A life-long barbeque enthusiast, Susan Flynn is Co-founder of Four Star Private Chefs, a search firm specializing in household private chef, personal assistant and estate manager positions. A Kansas City native, she was once caught red-handed riffling through the dumpster behind the legendary Arthur Bryant's BBQ for evidence of a secret ingredient in the sauce, thereby meeting and sharing a lunch of burnt ends on white bread with the great man himself, may he rest evermore in Peace. Chef Flynn's recipe development for Buffalo Grill and Barley and Hopps restaurants in San Mateo took her to Mesquite, Texas for four months. There, she was befriended and fed by the owners of J & R Pit Smokers, to whom she is indebted for the introduction of pecan wood smoke to her repertoire. Please contact her at susanflynn@fourstarchefs.com. Four Star Private Chefs 751 Laurel Street #704, San Carlos, Ca 94070 (650) 508-0322 www.fourstarchefs.com Frank Boyer: Founder & past President of the California Barbecue Association. Barbeque Guru for BBQ.COM Certified Master Judge by KCBS. Travels across the country to judge, write and photograph for the barbeque industry. He is a first place national champion and has won at least ten first place national and state awards in numerous categories including ribs, pork, brisket and chicken. Don Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s BBQ U. Cookbook | 18