FEAST: A Dinner Journal | Summer/Autumn 2014

9 772009 699004

9 772009 699004

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03

HigH Summer 2014

€5.95 £5.95

Volume 5

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FEAST Killowen Yoghurt Advert V3.indd 1

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WElcoME

welcome HIGH

SUMMER

2014

T

M

his issue of FEAST is quite unique as I had the opportunity to shoot many of the features while filming for Donal’s Irish FEAST, a new television series which airs this autumn on Irish screens. The series saw us travel throughout Ireland stopping in Galway, Wexford, Dublin, Kerry and Kilkenny, in quick succession, staying in some of Ireland’s most historic homes. Needless to say we were cooking and eating some of the finest ingredients our country has to offer along the way. We couldn’t feature all fifteen fantastic producers in this issue but I know they all share the same pride and passion for quality Irish food as we do. On our journey of ingredient gathering we created a summer pudding using artisanal brioche; a fresh flavoured pea, mint and ham hock soup; Howth lobster cooked using a traditional Irish recipe; as well as some of the season’s finest Irish strawberries. As summer draws to a close, I hope the recipes and producers featured in this issue will inspire you to make the most of the abundance of seasonal and Irish ingredients.

any will remember the constant childhood scolding that they wouldn’t get their dessert if they didn’t eat their dinner. Funnily enough it wasn’t common in my household when I was growing up. Other mothers would comment archly that I was allowed to have my cake before my dinner in that subtle judgemental way of Irish mammies. Actually, it wasn’t all that subtle and the judging was as big as the cake portions they were cutting for themselves. My mother was unperturbed: “He’s like his papa, he likes to start with something sweet and end on a savoury.” It’s true that my maternal grandfather had peculiar eating habits, which I happily copied, and we’ve done it here in FEAST too. Our High Summer menu starts with a brioche bread pudding, as much for me as for my Papa Golden. Obviously you can take the easy way out and have Arún Bakery’s delicious brioche to start your meal.

I won’t judge you. Much.

Donal Skehan Editor-at-large

Ross Golden-Bannon Managing Editor

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Contributors

Glenbeigh, Co Kerry, one of the many beautiful scenes we passed on our journey around Ireland.

eDitor

photographer

Ross Golden-Bannon was the editor of FOOD&WINE

Donal Skehan is a food writer and photographer with

Magazine from 2008 to 2013; restaurant critic at The

numerous cookbooks under his belt. He presents the TV

Sunday Business Post for 14 years and he is now the

show, Kitchen Hero, on RTÉ One in Ireland, Grandma’s

editor of SuperValu’s FRESH Magazine. He is the

Boy on FOX International and is a judge on the BBC’s

author of the ebook ‘How to Write About Food’ and co-

Junior MasterChef.

founder of the Guerrilla Gourmet Club, which supports fledging artisans.

Feast

Designer Jane Matthew’s name has been connected with innumerable big name magazines. She is bursting with talent and creativity which is why we love working with her.

Sharon Hearne Smith FooD stylist

Sharon Hearne Smith is the author of the hugely popular cookbook ‘No Bake Baking - Easy Oven-Free

CONTRIBUTORS Recipe Editor: Orla Broderick; Home Economist: Karen Convery; Copywriting: Joanna Carley, Lucy Clarke and Stephanie Barry SPECIAL THANKS Thanks to Lisdonagh House, Marlfield House, Ballintaggart House, Howth Castle, Uppercourt Manor as well as InProduction.tv., Nomos Productions and RTÉ. Thanks also to HarperCollins for the use of Donal’s polenta cake recipe. Not forgetting Sofie Larsson and Max the dog. © 2014 Ross Golden-Bannon & Donal Skehan. Feast photography copyright © 2014 Donal Skehan. Cover copyright © 2014 Ross Golden-Bannon & Donal Skehan. All rights reserved. Published by Donal Skehan and Ross Golden-Bannon trading as Feast Publications Ltd. Printed by Brunswick Press Ltd, Unit B2, Bluebell Industrial Estate, Dublin 12.

Cakes & Treats’. Her job has taken her around the world working with iconic names like Ina Garten, Lorraine

For commercial opportunities please contact Joanna Carley on 087-224 4055 or email joanna@donalskehan.com.

Pascale and Jamie Oliver. www.blueberrypie.ie

Visit our website feastdinnerjournal.com. Follow us on Instagram & Twitter @FeastJournal.

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Contributors

Donal and Max forage for wild Swedish bilberries in Bunketorp Forest, Lindome.

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Menu

HIGH

SUMMER drink

Summer foraging in Sweden for a bilberry summer mocktail 6

BREAD A traditional bread of brioche from Arún Bakery, transformed into a summer berry bread pudding 14

Starter Jim O’Rourke Tomatoes with Toonsbridge Ricotta and thyme tartlets 22

Soup O’Neill’s Ham Hock and fresh garden pea soup 32

MAIN COURSE Balscadden Bay Lobster makes the short journey from Howth to become a Dublin Lawyer 42

dessert Strawberry and white chocolate cheesecake inspired by Greenhill Fruit Farm 52

treat Polenta cake with orange, Mileeven’s Honey and vanilla mascarpone 62

SETTINg THe TABLE The Informal Florist casts her magic with informal gatherings of blossoms and wild flower posies 70

Final Feast Lisdonagh House, Caherlistrane, near Headford, Co Galway 76 -4-

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Menu

The fluffy catkin-like blooms of the Sanguisorba Obtusa Alba from the Informal Florist.

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ARÚN BAKERY

ARÚN

BAKERY

S T O N E Y B AT T E R DUBLIN

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ARĂšN BAKERY

Peter Flynn and Vlad Rainis

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J i m O ’ R o u r k e T o m a to e s

Starter J IM O ’ R O U R KE T O MA T O ES

SWORDS CO. DUBLIN

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Jim O ’ROuRke TOmaTOes

Jim O’Rourke

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J i m O ’ R o u r k e T o m a to e s

TOMATO, RICOTTA AND THYME TARTLETS FOR THE PASTRY

First make the pastry, place the flour and butter in a bowl and using

250g plain flour

a butter knife, cut the butter into the flour until you have a rough pebble mixture. Whisk together the egg with the balsamic vinegar and

170g very cold, butter,

sea salt. Add this to the butter and flour and using two forks gently

cut into small cubes

toss through until the dough begins to come together. Add a little

1 egg

cold water to bring the dough to a rough ball. Turn the pastry out on

1 tablespoon balsamic

to parchment paper or cling film, parcel up and place in the fridge to

vinegar

rest for 30 minutes.

1 teaspoon sea salt 2 tablespoons ice cold

While the pastry is resting, preheat the oven the 190C. Slice the

water

tomatoes in half and place in a bowl. Toss with a little olive oil, thyme, oregano and season with sea salt and ground black pepper. Set aside at room temperature to allow the flavours to develop.

FOR THE FILLING 300g cherry tomatoes

When the pastry has rested, cut into quarters and roll each piece out

1 tablespoon olive oil

on a clean well-floured work surface using a rolling pin, until each is

few fresh thyme

a round of about 20cm in diameter. Transfer the discs to a baking

sprigs

tray. Prick the pastry with a fork and then spread the ricotta cheese in the centre of each circle leaving a few centimeters along the edge.

small handful of

Place the tomatoes on top and fold the edges of the pastry towards

oregano, roughly

the centre of the tarts, up and around the tomatoes. Brush the pastry

chopped

with an egg wash and bake in the oven for about 20-25 minutes until

sea salt and freshly

the tomatoes have reduced in size by half. The tomatoes should be

ground black pepper

slightly charred and the pastry should be a nutty brown. Leave to cool

250g Toonsbridge

on the tins for 5 minutes, then carefully remove, arrange on plates

ricotta

and serve.

Serves 4

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Jim O ’ROuRke TOmaTOes

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O ’ N E I L L S D R Y C U R E B AC O N C O.

soup O’NEILLS

DRY

CURE

BACON

CO.

ENNISCORTHY Co. WEXFORD

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O ’ N E I L L S D R Y C U R E B AC O N C O.

Ed O’Neill

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Balscadden Bay Lobster

Balscadden Bay Lobster

Balsc adden Bay Howth, Co. Dublin

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Balscadden Bay loBster

Joe Caulfield

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Balscadden Bay loBster

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Balscadden Bay Lobster

A

thirty minute car journey from the bustling capital city of Dublin will bring you to the historic fishing village of Howth. This scenic seaside spot boasts sweeping panoramic views as well as some of the best seafood in Ireland. Howth harbour has a rich history and looks out onto the island of Ireland’s Eye, where, legend says, the very first Vikings landed in Ireland. The pirate queen Grace O’Malley called here too and kidnapped the Earl of Howth’s son as punishment for the Earl’s lack

of hospitality and on the lead up to the 1916 Rising, guns were smuggled here in 1914 by Erskine Childers for Irish soldiers fighting for freedom from British rule. The harbour is now a bustling hive of activity during the summer months where visitors can feast on fresh oysters, seafood platters and shop in the many busy fishmongers along the promenade. Fishing has been at the core of life for many families here for generations. Joe Caulfield and his family grew up in Howth and fishing has always been a way of life. Joe’s catch includes velvet crab and the much sought after lobster which he supplies to local restaurants who are proud to boast it’s sources.

Joe’s catch includes brown crab as well as the velvet variety. The brown crab is popular for its sweet, chunky white and brown meat while the velvet crab, with it’s soft shell, is more popular deep-fried and is often exported to other European countries. He sets his lobster pots daily with fish heads and entrails. According to European fishing laws, the lobsters caught are measured for size and the smaller ones thrown back. Female lobsters are marked by clipping the bottom of the tail and also thrown back to encourage population growth. On Joe’s fishing days he is often joined by an army of seagulls who religiously follow the boat back to the harbour hoping for some choice leftovers. From time to time grey seals pop their heads up around the boat to check out his movements.

Lobster has always been a popular offering in Irish restaurants and with Joe’s fine catch we were proud to show it off in a traditional Irish recipe for our High Summer FEAST. The rather uniquely named Dublin Lawyer is lobster cooked until the meat is just firm and then pan fried with whiskey and cream.

This is a richly decadent dish and it’s not difficult to work out how it got its name. Balscadden Bay Lobster, Balscadden Bay, Howth, Co. Dublin

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Seagulls in Howth Harbour are well fed; Joe Caulfield’s navigation equipment shows him the way to his lobster pots; velvet crabs have a softer shell than brown crab and are popular across Europe when deep-fried; the driving gears of Joe’s trawler.

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Greenhill Fruit Farm

dessert G REENHILL F RUIT F ARM

Enniscorthy Co. Wexford

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Greenhill Fruit Farm

Eamonn Crean

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Greenhill Fruit Farm

MINI STRAWBERRY AND WHITE CHOCOLATE CHEESECAKES 100g butter

Arrange eight 7.5cm wide x 4cm deep ring moulds on a tray and set aside. Melt the

200g gingernut biscuits

butter in a small pan on the hob or in a bowl in a microwave. Blitz the biscuits to a fine crumb in a food processor. Combine the biscuit crumbs and butter. Then

300g white chocolate, broken into small pieces

spoon the mixture into the bottom of each mould, levelling the biscuit mix flat.

Pop in the fridge for about 15 minutes until set.

175g cream cheese 175g mascarpone

Heat the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water until

175ml double cream

melted. Stir and set aside to cool. Meanwhile beat the cream cheese, cream and

175g strawberries, hulled

mascarpone in a large bowl until you are left with a smooth mixture. Then gently fold through the cooled, melted chocolate until evenly combined. Blitz the strawberries in a blender until smooth and then ripple the purĂŠe through the creamy

TO DECORATE 300g mixed berries like

mixture. Spoon the mixture into the ring moulds, levelling it at the top of each one.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour until set.

strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and

When ready to serve, carefully remove each mini cheesecake from the ring mould,

blackberries, halved or

slowly pushing the biscuit base up from underneath. Arrange in the centre of each

quartered if large

serving plate and top with a selection of berries. Decorate with fresh mint leaves,

fresh mint sprigs

scatter over some edible flowers and serve at once.

small handful of edible flowers

Makes 8

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Greenhill Fruit Farm

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MILEEVEN FINE FOODS

treat MILEEVEN FINE FOODS

OWNING HILL P I LTO W N , C O . K I L K E N N Y

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MILEEVEN FINE FOODS

Sarah Gough

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The Informal Florist

The Informal Florist

S t o n e y b at t e r Dublin 7

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The Informal florIsT

Claire Ryan celebrates flowers through an unstructured but elegant style.

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LISDONAGH HOUSE

LISDONAGH HOUSE

Headford Co. Galway

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LISDONAGH HOUSE

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LISDONAGH HOUSE

A

s part of our High Summer journey, we found ourselves traveling down a narrow road, deep in the heart of the West of Ireland. We faithfully followed our typically Irish directions from our hostess Finola Cooke: through the crossroads, past the hump in the road, left at the gate and we eventually reached a signpost cheerfully pointing us down another equally narrow road. Then the vista opened up

to an elegant avenue of beach trees and in the fields beyond Connemara ponies were grazing. Protected by acres of lush greenery, Lisdonagh House is an early Georgian Manor with breath-taking views over its own private lake and the Galway countryside.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Tea is poured and gossip shared in Lisdonagh House; the table is set and ready for our High Summer FEAST; Willow Pattern China and wild flowers from the garden; the ancient silverware seems happy with its wild flower chapeau.

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