Foodies Of New England Magazine Vol 6 by Photographers of Foodies of New England

Complimentary ...For Now ;)

Winter 2013

B &B’s Great New England Getaways!

Gluten-Free Mid-Winter Comfort Foods Best in Breweries The Finest in Carefully Crafted Microbrews Stillman’s Farm Sustainable Farming The History of... Vanilla

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Relax and Enjoy... Visit Carolans Comfort Zone. It is there that you can find ways to relax and enjoy the special comforts in life. Find out where to take that special getaway, discover what type of personality you have, have a perfect Time Out Moment, and win a Carolans Comfort Zone Experience. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re feeling happy, chilled, sexy, or in love, why not see how Carolans can suit your mood? How do you feel?

Try Carolans Irish Cream in your favorite dessert! See our recipe for Car Bomb Bread Pudding with Carolans Whipped Irish Cream and Stout Syrup, next page.

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Vist us at: www.carolans.ie Like us on Facebook at: facebook.com/carolans

Car Bomb Bread Puddin’ With Carolans Whipped Irish Cream and Stout Syrup Chef Brian Treitman - B.T.’s Smokehouse, Sturbridge, MA Bread Puddin’ 1 loaf Brioche 6 whole eggs 3 egg yolks 1/2 cup brown sugar 1 pint Carolans Irish Cream 1 pint heavy cream 1/2 cup chocloate chips 1/2 cup butterscotch chips 1/2 cup whisky soaked dry cherries or raisins (soak overnight) Whipped Irish Cream 1 cup heavy cream 2 tbsp confectioners sugar 1/2 cup Carolans Irish Cream Stout Syrup 1 pint of your favorite stout 1/4 cup brown sugar Salted Whisky Caramel 1 cup sugar  1 tablespoon corn syrup  1/4 liquid cup water  1/2 liquid cup heavy cream, heated until warm  2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened  1/2 teaspoon fine grain sea salt 1/4 cup favorite whisky or scotch. For Bread Pudding - Cut Brioche into 1 inch cubes and place in large bowl. Add chocolate chips, butterscotch chips, and cherries to bread. In a separate bowl mix cream, Carolans, eggs, and brown sugar whip till eggs are fully incorporated. Pour wet mixture over bread mixture and mix gently trying not to break up the brioche. Let sit for five minutes and then spread into well buttered 9x12 inch baking pan. Bake at 350° for 35-45 min till set in the middle. Test with wooden skewer or toothpick. For Whipped Cream - Combine all ingredients in mixing bowl and whip until stiff peaks form. For Stout Syrup - Combine stout and sugar in sauce pan and simmer until reduced to about 1/2 a cup liquid will become more syrupy as it cools. Be careful towards the end as it has a tendency to burn. For Whisky Caramel - In a heavy saucepan (at least 5 cup capacity), stir together the sugar, syrup, and water until the sugar is completely moistened. Place your candy thermometer into the pot taking care that it is tip in immersed into the sugar mixture. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow it to boil undisturbed until it turns a deep amber. Immediately remove it from the heat and slowly and carefully pour the hot cream into the caramel. It will bubble up furiously. Use a high-temperature heat-resistant rubber spatula or wooden spoon to stir the mixture until smooth, scraping up the thicker part that settles on the bottom. If any lumps develop, return the pan to the heat and stir until they dissolve. Stir in the butter and salt and whisky.

Why wait until the weekend?

Rovezzi’s has always been known as the ultimate in fine Italian dining, but many may not know about our affordable mid-week lunches. With our comfortable atmosphere and personal attention, Rovezzi’s is the perfect meeting place for a casual dinner or that important business meeting. If you don’t see exactly what you’re craving on the menu, just ask our chef to customize a dish to satisfy your appetite. Rovezzi’s Restorante - “Buon Appetito Miei Amici”

Located at the corner of Rt. 20 and School Street Sturbridge, MA • 508-347-0100 www.rovezzis.com

Winter 2013 Contributors Publisher: Mercury Media & Entertainment, LLC Managing Editor: Domenic Mercurio Contributing Editors: Julie Grady Jodie Lynn Boduch Christopher Dufault Director of Social Media: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Writers and Contributors: Matt Webster, Alina Eisenhauer, Ellen Allard, Richard Beams, Elaine Pusateri Cowan, Jodie Lynn Boduch, Peggy Bridges, Ryan Maloney, Christine Whipple, Sandy Lashin-Curewitz, David Kmetz, Brad Schwarzenbach, Honey Hess, Stacy Horowitz, Kelley Kassa Professional Photography: Scott Erb & Donna Dufault Erb Photography Art Director: Rick Bridges Richard Bridges Design Website: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Mobile App Developer: Dawn Lang Account Managers: Carol Adlestein, Linda Goodbrand Foodies of New England Magazine Box 380 Sturbridge MA 01566 domenic@mercurymediallc.com scott@erbphoto.com jodie@muchadomarketing.com rick@richardbridgesdesign.com All content ÂŠ2013, Mercury Media Entertainment All Rights Reserved Printed in USA Foodies of New England assumes no financial responsibility for errors in advertisements. No portion of Foodies of New England, advertising or editorial, may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written permission of the publisher. The information contained in this publication is believed to be accurate, however the publisher does not guarantee its accuracy. The opinions expressed by others within this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher or its employees. By accepting advertising neither Foodies of New England nor Mercury Media Entertainment is endorsing or guaranteeing the quality of service or products within those advertisements. Every effort is made to ensure that the advertisements come from reputable companies, however we cannot take responsibility for how an advertiser deals with the public.

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PB & J made with with Black and Blue Jam from Bonnieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jams

Foodies of New England

Contents Features

A Vacation in Your Backyard Great New England Getaways

The Essence of Fruit & Sunshine Bonnie’s Jams

Crafted by Hand Berkshire Blue Cheese

Stillman’s Farm

Good Food & Sustainable Farming Go Hand in Hand

Keeping the Confectionary Spirit Alive

Old Fashion Italian Cookies

Best in Breweries

The Finest in Carefully Crafted Microbrews

It’s All About the Glass Worcester Center for Crafts Glass Blowing

108

Foodies, unite! National Food Day

110

OnceMade Beer Single Batch Beers

Cover: Roasted Butternut Squash Chili, Pickled Onions and Cornbread *Serving pieces featured are works created by New England artisans. Similar items can be found at the Worcester Center for Crafts Gallery Store. Small bowl: Shawn O’Connor, Maine Beer glass: Carrie Battista, Massachusetts Casserole: Tom White, Massachusetts Ladle: Meb Boden, Connecticut

Foodies of New England

Departments

History of...

Vanilla

Gluten Free

Mid-Winter Comfort Foods

Food for Thought Drink Your Dessert

Sweet Sensations

Chocolate Porter Bread Pudding

Brew Review Russian Imperial Stout

100

Healthy at Home

Roasted Butternut Squash Chili

112

Whiskey-Under Loch & Key Snowbound!

116

Wines of Distinction

100

Don Mateo Wines

120

Something to Drink Tiramisu Martini

112 Foodies of New England

Irresistable Hazelnut Taste Frangelico is a traditional hazelnut liqueur enjoyed neat, over ice, with coffee or in a wide variety of stylish cocktails. Try Frangelico for yourself and see why it’s the “Irresistable Hazelnut Taste”

Chocolate Frangelico Semifredo

Chef Enrico Giovanello - Avellino Restaurant, Sturbridge, MA 2 cups heavy cream 2/3 cups superfine sugar 1/3 cup cocoa powder 4 eggs, separated 1 cup Frangelico 3 tablespoons confectionary sugar 1 ¼ cups skinned hazelnuts, roughly chopped

Serves 10 Line a 6-cup loaf pan with aluminum foil. Heat ¾ cup heavy cream in a small sauce pan. Combine the superfine sugar, cocoa and egg yolks in a bowl. Pour the hot cream on top and mix well. Pour back in the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring continuously until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not allow the custard to boil. Stir in the Frangelico and remove from heat. Cover the surface with plastic wrap and allow to cool for ½ hour. Whip the egg whites in a clean dry glass bowl until stiff peaks form. Whip the remaining cream in in a large bowl until soft peaks form. Add the confectionary sugar and continue whipping until incorporated. Lightly fold the chocolate custard into the whipped cream. Now fold in the egg whites. Now fold in the hazelnuts. Spoon into the pan, smooth the surface and cover with foil. Freeze overnight. Leave at room temperature for 5 minutes before serving in slices.

Visit us at: www.frangelico.com or Like us on Facebook at: facebook.com/Frangelico

Serving Memories Since 1946

Remember the time when things were simpler? When you walk into Harry’s Restaurant, you’ll feel like you did growing up, walking into mom’s kitchen as the smells of home-cooked meals lingered in the air. Our friendly staff will make you feel right at home with our exceptional service and gracious hospitality as they serve up the best in breakfasts, lunches and dinners. From delicious fried clams and onion rings, to lobster rolls, soups and salads, there’s something for everyone. We even have low carb menu options for diabetics. Harry’s Restaurant - Great food, just like it used to be.

149 Turnpike Road Westborough, MA 01581 508-366-8302 www.harrysrestaurant.com

Letter

from the

Editor

“I’ll take the Winter, with a Side Order of Delicious, and a Tall Glass of Fun, Please.” One thing is certain, though: if you’re a foodie, you can enjoy New England yearround, regardless of its climatic volatility. To us, winter in New England offers the best, heartiest comfort food and the warmest, most intriguing libations to be had in this or any other world.

Depending on whether you see the glass as half empty or half full, winter can be a New Englander’s biggest bane or sweetest blessing.

Such is the case for you in this issue, which features a look at New England’s Greatest Inns featuring the finest in foodie fare. After all, who needs a cruise to the tropics when you can slip away a little closer to home for a 2 or 3-day jaunt to the best our scenic region has to offer? And if that’s not enough to pique your enthusiasm for winter, peruse our picks for the Northeast’s Best Breweries, touting the finest in carefully crafted microbrews, all brimming with color, quality and personality. To bolster the beer theme, Honey Hess writes a terrifically colorful piece on hand-blown glass for beer steins, and our Grand Chancellor of Beer, Matt Webster, takes an educated look at North Coast Brewing Company’s Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout, a great winter warmer! We also know how much New Englanders seek hearty and creative alternatives to the mundane, ho-hum food choices…so we’ve lined up some incredibly decadent and easy-to-create recipes for you to embark on, right in your own kitchen, like Peg Bridges’ “Drink Your Dessert.” Later, Peg visits Stillman’s Farm in Lunenburg and New Braintree, Massachusetts, where you can take part in their Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program and subscribe for a season’s worth of fabulous fruits and veggies. Then visit with our Gluten-Free Diva, Ellyn Allard, as she takes us through some incredibly healthy and gluten-free brunch alternatives you can make for your family and friends. When baking, keep in mind the importance of that delightful bean, vanilla. Jodie Boduch takes you through a historical perspective on that fabulous baker’s friend, vanilla. Jodie also takes you through a marvelous tour of Bonnie’s Jams, a Cambridge-based producer of exquisite, hand-crafted preserves. Speaking of sweet, don’t miss our Food Network diva and Sweet Genius champion, Alina Eisenhauer’s column, Sweet Sensations, for an immensely tasty Chocolate Porter Bread Pudding recipe. In her Healthy at Home department, Elaine Pusateri-Cowan shows you how to make her Roasted Butternut Squash Chile, frame-by-frame, so you can’t make a mistake! Follow Christine Whipple to Berkshire Blue Cheese and learn all about how they make this pungently-flavored lactose delight, and then find out how to pair it with your favorite dishes. Tag along with our own Brad Shwarzenbach who delivers the goods on cookie lady Andrea Vickstrom, a local guru of homemade Italian cookies, and Sandy Lashin-Curewitz explores Food Day, a true foodie holiday! (Continued on page 12)

Foodies of New England

(Continued from page 10)

New England wouldn’t be New England without at least a little snow, so when the white stuff starts to fly, you can have your cake and drink it, too, with Rich Beams, as he uncovers the delectable Tiramisu Torta from Nuovo Restaurant in Worcester. But if you’re a whiskey lover and a full-blown Nor’easter kicks in, you’ll need to be prepared for confinement, so be sure to find out what happens to Ryan Maloney when he becomes snowbound and is confronted with the hardest choice he’s ever had to make… which whiskey to keep, and which to let go of. If the whiskey doesn’t take the chill out of your bones, venture to tropical Chile, South America, with wine guy Domenic Mercurio, and visit with the ancient Moai of Easter Island as they watch over the masterfullymade and robust red wine, Don Mateo Carménère. Ah, yes…winter is here, foodies. But despair not, for we have delivered the warmest and most delicious ways for you to enjoy this characteristic New England season. Go ahead, turn the page and let the adventure begin…

Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Editor/Publisher

Foodies of New England

“Is It Any Wonder He’s Ranked #9 in America?”

Experience Wilson’s Latest and Greatest Culinary Feat:

KOZARA

at 301 Park Avenue in Worcester Visit the Baba Sushi website for details Scan with your Smartphone to visit our website

Baba Sushi 309 Park Ave. Worcester, MA 01609 508-752-8822 www.babasushi.com

Foodies of New England

A Vacation in your

BACKYARD Written by Domenic D. Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

From corner to corner, America is beautiful. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re one of the fortunate few, you can travel this great land from the grandeur of the Pacific Northwest, driving the sunset-bathed coasts of Oregon and California, and then traversing this great nation, experiencing along the way the breathtaking Grand Canyon, the Rocky Mountains in all their majesty, the vast, open skies of the Midwest, and the historic splendor of the East.

Foodies of New England

But, nowhere will you find the quaint, relaxing charm – and attention to great cuisine – as you will in New England. That type of atmosphere, coupled with culinary greatness, is a hard combination to achieve. But New England’s chefs take it so very seriously, yet execute their craft in such a relaxed, efficient way, that it truly appears to be an effortless profession. Indeed, when spending your valuable time planning your vacation (not to mention the financial investment) you certainly want to get the most out of it. Unfortunately, one of the most disappointing facets of vacationing remains the challenge of consistently finding good food and pleasant dining experiences at reasonable prices. Sure, if you don’t want to gamble, you can search out the most expensive restaurants in your vacation locale, but even that is no assurance of meeting with gratification. So, what’s a foodie to do? Well, here at Foodies of New England, we’re all about “local” -local farms, local restaurants that source locally-grown produce and meat, and local residents that patronize their local markets and dining spots. All of this is directed toward one vitally important goal: growing and sustaining local economies. So, why not vacation locally, as well? The case to be made is simple: you can embark on a vacation in your local region of New England, spending less money on travel, minimizing your risk of being disappointed by staying closer to home, exploring and getting to know the region in which you live, and, all the while, supporting your local economy. Sounds pretty “sound,” doesn’t it? Need more motivation? Well, if you use Foodies of New England as your guide, you can be fairly assured of finding a B&B or historic inn with terrifically-pleasing cuisine, also. The only thing left to determine is the “where” — and that question can be answered simply by perusing the following pages, each colorfully and tastefully reflecting the best-of-the-best in New England getaway spots, historic inns and beds and breakfasts. So, leave the stress at home, foodies, and start actually relaxing on your next vacation, for a change. Take a scenic ride to one of the following premiere destinations. Enjoy your New England, foodies…

Foodies of New England

Pork Duo: Grilled Porchetta & Slow Roasted Pork Belly Served with Roasted Sweet Potato, Sauteed Zucchini and Apple Brandy Sauce

Foodies of New England

Colby Hill Inn Modern Hospitality, Old World Charm Written by Stacy Horowitz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Americans love a good deal and you don’t have to look any further than the Colby Hill Inn nestled in the tiny picturesque town of Henniker, New Hampshire to experience the one-stop-shop experience this stately inn has to offer. Henniker is that special type of location where you can escape from the monotonous grind of city life while equally not feeling isolated from civilization. The Colby Hill Inn lies only 90 minutes away from Boston and twenty minutes from the New Hampshire capital Concord—which is now home to the new Capital Center for the Arts. “Henniker is a great getaway destination to see New England from…it lies within reach of the lake regions, mountains and the coast,” says Colby Inn owner Mason Cobb.

Foodies of New England

Besides being the ideal location, Henniker embodies the quaint New England life which can only be found in a Normal Rockwell painting. It is near a myriad of attractions including kayaking and fly fishing. Skiing areas such as Mount Sunapee and Pat’s Peak Ski Area are within driving distance as well. If you are looking for great shopping, Tanger Outlets in Tilton, NH are a half-hour drive away while antique shops and quilting lessons are located just outside the Colby Hill Inn’s front door. New England College offers the town a slice of cultural versatility that collegiate towns often provide to its occupants. If the kids are along for the ride, don’t forget to bring them to Canterbury Shaker Village or The Christa McAuliffe Planetarium— both venues would make a good day trip from the inn. Cyndi and Mason Cobb traveled more than 20,000 miles up the eastern seaboard looking for a change of career and the perfect inn. They discovered the historical Colby Hill built in 1797 and have made it a family business ever since. Their son Jesse, an assistant innkeeper, does social media for the inn. The inn was used as a tavern and working farm in the past. The sign on the lawn of the charming white-painted, green-shuttered inn reads “Lodging and Good Food”—add “inclusive retreat” to the mix and one could begin to visualize the old charm that lies within this enchanted getaway and its variety of cozy luxuries such as monogrammed bathrobes and bathroom items in each of the inn’s 14 different styled rooms. Rooms are equipped with queen or king beds, private baths, and Wi-Fi, while suites also feature DVD players and TVs. While there is no onsite spa, the inn strives for the spa-like experience featuring rooms with whirlpools, fireplaces, and on-site massages from massage therapists. Other onsite amenities include an extensive perennial garden, antique bar,

Foodies of New England

Colby Hill Chicken (signature dish): Chicken Breast stuffed with house made lobster and leek boursin cheese, served with crushed fingerling potatoes and sauteed zucchini

Butternut Squash Rangoon: Creamy Butternut Squash Wontons with Spiced Cranberry Sauce

Chef Ian Gage

cooking classes, and an outdoor pool. The staff of 18 serves homemade afternoon cookies and coffee while tea and hot cocoa are available throughout the day. These personalized touches are part of what has made the Colby Inn a multi-award-winning establishment—they were selected as a Yankee Magazine Editor’s Pick for Best of New England 2012 and were chosen as a recipient of the “Best of New Hampshire” title by New Hampshire Magazine. “Anyone can set the scene, but it is the people that make it the place,” says Mason of his attentive and friendly staff.

are both packaged get-away deals being offered this year and into 2013. Mason and Cyndi have also traveled to different countries with guests of the Inn who enjoy culinary adventures as much as they do. Beautiful scenery, plenty of activities, and an all-encompassing inn with a staff that makes you feel at home is what makes Henniker, New Hampshire and The Colby Inn the triple crown of get-away destinations.

You can follow Colby Hill Inn and find information about rates/special events/ activities in the area by following them on Twitter and Facebook. Colby Hill Inn 33 The Oaks Henniker, NH 03242 603-428-3281 www.colbyhillinn.com

The seasonal menu at the restaurant at The Colby Hill Inn employs a “cooking local” mission using fresh produce from the area. “We go out and pick our own blueberries and strawberries when they are in season. We also use local buffalo and venison in our dishes,” says Mason. The special ingredient behind the award winning dishes served up at the restaurant at the Inn? “Great chefs come in and add their own little touches to classic New England ingredients in different ways,” says Mason. A menu staple that freshens up the New England staple of lobster is the Colby Hill Chicken: chicken breast stuffed with leeks, lobster, and boursin cheese served with chardonnay sauce. Another menu favorite is the Pork Duo which consists of grilled bruschetta, slow-roasted pork belly, sweet potatoes, apple brandy sauce, and zucchini. The restaurant has won the Wine Spectator Award every year since 2004 for featuring some great value wines that Mason deems a bestkept secret. Some of the more exotic wines featured include Sassicaia: an Italian Super Tuscan & Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello. A Pumpkin Crème Brulee Sweet Custard with Burnt Sugar Topping rounds out seasonal specialties on the fall menu. If you are looking for a themed getaway, the Inn offers vacation packages: ‘Gourmet Getaway’ and ‘Stay and Ski’ Foodies of New England

Fresh Food & Family in Freeport

Written by David G. Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Set near the Maine coast and within walking distance to the many fashion outlets in Freeport, the Harraseeket Inn is as much as “anchor” to the community as the famed L.L. Bean store nearby.

The inn gets its name from the Harraseeket River in Freeport. Its name derives from an American Indian dialect meaning the “River of Many Fish” — what better location for L.L. Bean to establish his world-famous hunting, fishing, and sporting business?

Filled with antiques, 23 fireplaces, jacuzzis, and an indoor pool, the 84 rooms plus extended stay townhouses include all the amenities any discriminating traveler would expect. They offer two award-winning restaurants: The Maine Dining Room and the Broad Arrow Tavern set against a backdrop of lovely grounds and gardens. It is close to many of Maine’s major attractions. Many people use their facility as a base, traveling to the lakes, mountains, museums, Bowdoin, Bates and Colby Colleges, or towns such as Boothbay, Camden or Bar Harbor.

Foodies of New England

Duo of Duck Crispy Breast, Confit Leg and Parsnip Cake, Local Spinach and Pomegranate Molasses (Gluten Free)

Foodies of New England

General manager Rodney “Chip” Gray comes from a long line of Grays who have been involved in the hospitality business in Maine — they are now into their fifth generation working at Harraseeket, including Chip’s daughter Nancy, who helps out in the dining room and with housekeeping. When asked about their policies towards local, sustainable and organic produce and agriculture, Chip laughs. “We have been doing it that way from the very beginning! I didn’t have my first piece of store-bought bread until I left home for work. It just made more sense to work with the local people you have known and trusted, plus it makes fiscal sense as local goods need to travel only a short way, reducing fuel costs and getting fresher stuff faster.” Head chef Eric Flynn strongly agrees. Here’s the official statement from the Inn’s website: We at the Harraseeket Inn believe that doing business with local purveyors helps the community by keeping its economy strong. Our first priority is purchasing locally grown and harvested foods. We are supporting local farmers and fishermen, preserving traditional skills and open space, and reducing the energy expended to transport foods for great distances. We purchase organically grown produce whenever possible because we believe it is a healthier choice for our customers and our planet. We use King Arthur organic flour and Maine-grown whole-wheat flour in our breads and pastries. We buy Oakhurst milk because it is Maine milk from a family owned business that uses no antibiotics or growth hormones. Most of our seafood comes from local waters except for our salmon, which is wild caught in Alaska. We serve no farmed salmon, mackerel, or other fish with known high levels of mercury. As increasing pressure is placed on wild fish stocks, we constantly seek out suitable new additions from sustainable fisheries using low-impact harvest techniques. We are responsible for the future health of our oceans, and the decisions we make locally have a ripple effect across the entire ecosystem. The same rules apply to their meats, poultry, grains, and oils. Another section of their site relative to Green Initiatives contains the following information: We have replaced most of the plastic products used in the restaurants with biodegradable, eco-friendly products. Example: Drinking straws, stir sticks, to-go containers.

Foodies of New England

We no longer sell or offer plastic bottled water due to the negative effects on environment and health. We only sell glass bottles. We use office products made from or containing recycled materials. All of our ware-washing chemicals are Green Seal Certified. We use Green Seal certified cleaning supplies in our housekeeping Department. So, following that advanced manifesto, the Harraseeket Inn staff have made doing the right thing their mantra, and their customers appreciate the effort. And what a staff it is! Kitchen staff alone numbers 63 crew at the height of the season and the full summer inn staff can often exceed 150. As with many old inns along the New England coast, the Harraseeket is a combination of several older structures combined with new construction. The oldest part is a Cape from the 1700s. The historic post and beam structure was completely renovated with eight guest rooms and is now called the Carriage House. The main inn was built in the adjacent field and originally had 54 rooms, incorporating a charming 19th-century Greek Revival known as the Sullivan House on the corner of Davis Avenue and Main Street. That building now houses the Broad Arrow Tavern, which is why the tavern floors slope and creak just like an old house. The South Wing was added in 1997 and, with the adjacent nine extended-stay townhouses, brought the room count to 93, with two eateries: the Broad Arrow Tavern, and the Maine Dining Room. This is truly a large, full service facility. Chip is proudest of the Inn’s commitment to quality and the excellent staff. “The Harraseeket Inn wouldn’t be where it is today without our extended family of employees. Their unique talents and unswerving dedication to excellence are what make this place so special. Many members of our staff have been with us for more than 20 years, and if that doesn’t constitute an extended family, I don’t know what does. We’re very fortunate to be surrounded by such wonderful people!” The Harraseeket Inn is open year ‘round, seven days a week. Harraseeket Inn 162 Main Street Freeport, ME 04032 800-342-6423 www.harraseeketinn.com

Maine Scallop Crudo & Crispy Shrimp Jumbo Shrimp, Grapefruit Segments, Fried Maine Shrimp, Fresh Mint and Apple Vinaigrette

Foodies of New England

The Vermont Way at the

Red Clover Inn Written by Julie Grady Thomas Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Hidden away in Killington, Vermont is an unspoiled sanctuary. Between the picturesque peeks at Pico and Killington is the Red Clover Inn.

A destination for foodies, outdoorsmen and city-skippers alike, the Red Clover Inn oozes effortless luxury in a relaxed, country Vermont atmosphere.

This year-round property has had an uplift of sorts after a yearlong renovation. No stone was left unrepaired, from the carriage house to the dairy barn and the original farmhouse and inn. Spacious, sunny and bright, all of the dĂŠcor was implemented to embody simplicity, with clean, simple lines and open, easy colors. Yet, with such a historic site, a keen eye for history was paramount.

Foodies of New England

Crispy House Cured Duck Confit Leg on Frisee Tossed with a Blood Orange Vinaigrette

Foodies of New England

Chef Dennisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Portuguese Steak with Garlic Flat Iron Steak Topped with Fried Egg, House Duck Fat Fries and a White Wine Piri-Piri Demi

Foodies of New England

Chef David Coolidge

The original space was an actual inn, so nothing has been over-manipulated or crammed; you won’t find dry wall splicing what once was the master bedroom in a farmhouse.

“It’s a great way to get the community together,” said Charlotte. “Of course, we have a lot of locals who come, but we do have guests who travel in.”

“It’s been an inn since the 1800s and we’ve kept the original walls and floors,” explained Charlotte Callahan, one of the four innkeepers at Red Clover. “But, we haven’t forgotten about modern amenities.”

Each dinner consists of a five-course prix fixe menu, and each course has a very thoughtful and very specific wine pairing, all of which is created and chosen by Chef Dave Coolidge.

Ben Flint, Maggie, Lydia, Ruby, Mae, Claire—each of the 13 rooms has a different name and unique feel. “As an innkeeper, I get so caught up describing the rooms, in the end, they each have they’re own personality,” she said.

Effortless Hospitality Red Clover is a family-run establishment, and you can feel it in everything from the staff to the décor to the inn itself. “When you come here you’re family,” Charlotte elaborated. And it all trickles down from the top. The Tyler and Hill families own and operate the Red Clover Inn and The Tyler Place Family Resort of Highgate Springs, Vermont, which as been running since 1933. That’s 80 years of experience in service, accommodation and hospitality. As guests grow up with Tyler Place, the general hope is that they evolve, so to speak, to the Red Clover Inn. A small establishment with only four innkeepers, three servers, one chef, one sous-chef, one dishwasher and one housekeeper, Red Clover is relaxed and intimate. “We’re all close; everyone knows everyone’s name,” Charlotte said. Running a small shop actually allows Red Clover to better achieve its main goal: relaxation. “It’s a casual, fun environment and we enjoy our guests,” she said. “We’re not some high-end French restaurant where you’re afraid to sneeze. It’s just the Vermont way.” So, no worries if you feel like taking a nap instead of hiking, or if you forgot your map and feel like taking a last-minute bike ride. “Whatever we have, you can use,” Charlotte said, “at no extra charge.”

An Immovable Feast

“We’re not some high-end French restaurant where you’re afraid to sneeze. It’s just the Vermont way.” His food philosophy? “I let the dish do as much work for me as possible.” And it shows. According to Chef Dave, the overall cuisine at the Red Clover is eclectic Americana. “It’s about bringing things together and playing with it—a melting pot, really, just like America.” But during your average wine dinner, you’ll sample menus tailored to revolve around wines from a particular area, such as Germany, Portugal, and South America (there’s even a Sake dinner). But what makes this wine dinner so incredible is simple: it’s family style. Two long tables sit end to end and each dinner typically hosts 35 to 40 people. So, sit down, plate up and get to know your neighbors. Places go fast and so do rooms, so if you want a seat at the table and a bed for the night, best call a month ahead of time to book. Perhaps what’s most amazing is the fact that every dish has something Vermont in it, whether it’s the meat or the cheese or the bread that’s made down the road. The small, on-site chef’s garden also does well to provide tomatoes and lettuce. It can’t be that easy—here in New England we have four, distinct seasons. “It’s fun, challenging. Especially since we’re coming into winter,” Dave said. “But, then you just go into the root vegetables.” (Continued on page 84)

Imagine, traveling down through Italy’s snow-capped mountains in Piedmont, cutting over the rolling hills of Lombardy, through to Emilia Romagna and the earthen rooftops of Bologna, then through the sweeping expanse that is Tuscany, down to the winding valleys of Umbria, the wild terrain of Abruzzo and finally beautiful Sicily—all for $75. On the first Friday of every month, the folks at Red Clover put on one of the most enticing spreads, all under one delectable theme. It’s the monthly wine dinner and it sells out fast.

Foodies of New England

Homemade Granola and Fresh Fruit Salad

Foodies of New England

Waking Up to Locally-Inspired

Breakfast Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

If you stay at the Dragonfly Bed & Breakfast in West Brookfield, MA, one thing is for certain: You should be careful not to oversleep.

Sure, it’s a treat to relax—showing up at breakfast in pajamas or barefoot is considered a compliment to hosts Michael and Mark LeBlanc Peterson—and the country chic atmosphere is conducive to elegant comfort. But really, you don’t want to miss breakfast. We were given some delicious cinnamon chips scones and cherry preserves and believe us, they underscore that point. Also? You probably won’t need to eat lunch.

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Breakfast starts with baked goods, along with fruit, yogurt, and homemade granola. That’s usually followed by guests saying, “There’s more?” once the savory items are served. Here’s where “local” truly takes a seat at the table. The eggs come from farms in the area and from a friend who has chickens. Bacon, glazed with maple syrup or brown sugar and a touch of red pepper flakes, is from BT’s Smokehouse in Sturbridge, MA. (Brian Treitman, owner of BT’s Smokehouse, is an annual competitor at Worcester’s Best Chef, a Foodies event.) The maple syrup comes from The Warren Farm whenever possible. And adding to the decadence is the always-popular cider donut French toast. A trip to Breezeland Orchards in nearby Warren, MA yields apples (Macintosh, Pink Lady, and for the apple compote, Honey Crisp) as well as the cider donuts. “People trust me to make them whatever I’d like,” says Michael. “My food is approachable.” He adds that local farmstands and farmers’ markets serve as inspiration for his creations. Zucchini, for example, can end up in an omelette with onion and asiago cheese. As to how this penchant for luscious breakfasts came about, one must head south to Jersey and turn back the clock several years. Michael and Mark loved throwing brunch parties for their family and friends. Gathering together over scones, frittata, and fruit salad on the weekend, in between restaurant jobs and performing arts gigs, was enjoyable and relaxing. Another form of relaxation, spending time together at bed and breakfasts, helped cultivate the “Hey, maybe we should do this…” idea that blossomed into fruition several years ago.

When a favorite B&B went up for sale, the couple gave more serious consideration to the thought of being proprietors. Although that property wasn’t the ideal fit, they kept their eyes open…and when they came across the opportunity to buy the home in West Brookfield, they knew it was The One. It wasn’t a B&B, but they envisioned it as a beautiful retreat (and it is). In June 2006, they moved in and renovated it on the weekends between full-time jobs. The Dragonfly B&B opened in May 2009, and their first guests were attendees of the Brimfield Antique Show—guests who still come back year after year. The Dragonfly gets quite a few repeat guests. They come for Brimfield, to visit private schools, and to attend parents’ weekends in area schools and colleges; they’ve hailed from throughout the U.S. and from across the pond (e.g., Germany, France, and the Netherlands). When guests leave, they’re given a goodie bag of granola and scones. Oh, and those scones? Michael and Mark used to sell them at the West Brookfield Farmers’ Market until time demands got to be a bit too much. Locals are in luck, though: special orders are taken from time to time. “I want guests to feel like they’re staying with family,” Michael says. One waft of breakfast and not only will you feel that way, you just might be reluctant to leave. Dragonfly B&B 73 East Main Street West Brookfield, MA 01585 508-867-7451 www.thedragonflybb.com

Mark & Michael LeBlanc Peterson

Foodies of New England

Cider Donut French toast, Gala Apple Cranberry Compote and Brown Sugar Cinnamon Candied Bacon

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Bella Farms Moulard Duck Breast with Zehr Farm Mushrooms, Equinox Farm Spinach & Berleberg Cheese Poutine Â

Cuisine Wrapped in History Nestled in The Berkshires Written by Sandy Lashin-Curewitz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Where can you rest your head in a place steeped in history, and filled with foodie excitement? Why, the Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge, Mass., of course. One might consider the Red Lion, in operation since 1773, as the heart of the Berkshires itself. And we know that the quickest way to the heart is through the stomach.

Executive Chef Brian Alberg has been winning hearts at the Red Lion for nearly 10 years. “We serve about 150,000 guests annually, and to each one of those guests, their experience is a very personal one,” he says. “We make every effort to offer the best ingredients prepared with love, served on beautiful china, with fresh cut flowers, linens, and live music, served by people that care about both the food and the guest.”

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Love and caring pulses through the Inn’s history and infuses it with life. The parents of current proprietor, Nancy Fitzpatrick, were high school sweethearts who took over the Inn as their curtain business, now the flagship Country Curtains store, which has prospered. The Inn itself has continued to grow, and now includes a number of guest houses. Common areas and 125 guestrooms are “individually decorated” with antiques and artifacts, some hand collected by previous owners —like Mrs. Plumb’s 137 teapots. Whether you tuck into your four-poster, or a plate first, the Red Lion’s three dining options await you—the spacious main dining room, Widow Bingham’s Tavern, and the Lion’s Den Pub—each offering a bounty of fresh, local ingredients, “contemporary cuisine that is rooted in the region’s history,” and a children’s menu (room service and private dining rooms are also available). From June to September, linger over a meal al fresco in the gorgeous courtyard. Chef Alberg designs Red Lion menus like he’s writing storybooks, populated with intriguing characters. Innovative dishes delight the palate with their own personalities. Diners are introduced to a veritable who’s who of local farms and producers, and local ingredients are featured on the sustainable foods dinner menu in the dining room and tavern on Sundays and Mondays. A stay at the Red Lion will flood the senses and leave you and yours well-rested and well-fed. After a gawk at paintings, sepia tone portraits, storied knick knacks of all sorts, Tiffany lamps, crystal chandeliers, and ornate, old-fashioned wallpaper, breakfast lightly with almond-pepita Bola granola, Old Chatham sheep’s milk yogurt, or oatmeal kissed with Ioka Farms maple syrup. For a heartier feast that sticks to the ribs, consider a Berkshire apple pancake with caramelized apples and brown sugar; the “Lion’s” frittata stuffed with diced prime rib, caramelized onions, and melted cheddar; or Zehr Farm Shiitake mushroom hash and poached eggs. Later—perhaps after a dip in the year-round heated pool— relax in the Lion’s Den Pub with a libation and charcuterie and cheese, selections Alberg says he wants to expand in the coming year. Most cured and smoked meats are made in-house from Berkshire-grown, grass-fed beef and milkfed heritage breed pigs. An exceptional treat on the board

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is speck from Iowa purveyor of artisan meats, La Qurecia. Speck is betterknown in Italy as a smoked, flavorful alternative to prosciutto. The accompanying cheeses include Berkshire Blue, from Great Barrington; camembert from Chatham, N.Y.; and cheddar, from Grafton, Vt. In the evening, if you are so inclined, dress for dinner in the main dining room. The Red Lion has done away with a dining room dress code, but “always appreciate those who wish to dress appropriately for a fine dining experience.” The décor, cuisine, and service evoke the setting of a favorite film—and celebrities have been known to visit. So why not get gussied up for pan roasted mussels with house-made chorizo, tomatoes, and white wine; grilled filet mignon, Berleberg cheese poutine, and sautéed spinach; an award-winning wine list of more than 400 selections; and roasted pumpkin crème brûlée with maple-ginger biscotti, or a flight of five artisan cheeses with fruit, nuts, quince paste, and honey? Vegetarian dishes—roasted Farm Girl tomato risotto, organic spinach with fruits and nuts, and smoked almond puree; or quinoa pasta with white beans and escarole in vegetable broth, with parmesan cheese—are equally pleasing. Chef Alberg says that he has learned to be proactive in serving vegetarians and those with food allergies. “I used to just feed vegetarians vegetables, but as I’ve grown as a chef, I’ve realized that, as a consumer, a vegetarian should have as much excitement and pleasure while dining out as a carnivore. I now design our menus with vegetarians and people with the most popular allergies in mind,” he explained. Red Lion dishes are also primarily gluten-free. Not a business content to rest on its laurels, the Red Lion continues to evolve. On the drawing board for the coming months are “ethnic comfort food, a killer cocktail list, and new relationships with like-minded people, businesses, and blogs,” says Chef Alberg, and to “continue to team build with staff and other local chefs/foodies to help build recognition for our region as a food destination.” The Red Lion Inn 30 Main Street Stockbridge, MA 01262 413-298-5545 www.redlioninn.com

Executive Chef Brian Alberg

Taza Chocolate Tart & Sticky Pudding with Fat Toad Goat’s Milk Caramel & Candied Walnuts

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Photos courtesy of paulsrobinsonphotography.com

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The Essence of

Fruit and Sunshine Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Imagine growing up in an orange grove in California with fruit surrounding your home. There, sunshine is a gift both lavish and welcoming. Fruit abounds in the kitchen, and your mother makes jam often—and has ever since you can remember. Could there be a more fitting back story for an artisan jam-maker? Bonnie Shershow of Bonnie’s Jams, based in Cambridge, MA, began making jam in part because she noticed a considerable taste difference between the jams she remembered from her childhood and the jams offered in grocery stores. She found commercial jams to be overly sweet and lacking in true fruitiness. Making jam also proved to be a bonding experience with her (now-grown) children. She wanted them to appreciate the flavors she’d enjoyed in her own childhood. The whole process was something fun to do as a family, from gathering grapes near their home in Brookline, MA to being in the kitchen together. Bonnie found that, both for them and for her, there was something calming, peaceful, and satisfying about stirring and the “rather magical” moment of transformation when jam goes from liquid to gelatinous. The flavor, too, becomes magical. To recapture the taste of sunshine-imbued fruit (farm stand and farmers’ markets fruits are best), the formula is simple: employ lemon and sugar. Bonnie’s Jams use half the sugar of commercial jams.

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Apricot Orange or Peach Ginger jam glaze: 1/2 cup of Peach Ginger or Apricot Orange jam 1/4 cup good olive oil a sprig or two of fresh Thyme 1 Tablespoon of soy sauce Heat all of this in a small pan and then brush on chicken, pork, or fish and roast. Other ideas for cooking and baking with jam:

That’s right—half. Her jams average 7-8 grams of sugar versus 15 grams in commercial jams. Another secret: no pectin. This method decreases the amount of water and brings out the intensity of the flavor, the essence of the fruit. This technique allows Bonnie to make jam “the way it used to taste.” One of her hobbies is to collect old cookbooks. She’s observed time and again that in pre-WWII cookbooks, pectin is never mentioned as an ingredient. Bonnie’s Jams, beautifully labeled with the renowned typography of Louise Fili, come in Apricot Orange, Black & Blue, Peach Ginger, Raspberry Lime Rickey, Red Pepper Jelly, and Strawberry Rhubarb, with both Strawberry and Raspberry available as well. The latter two are often made in jam-making classes, which Bonnie teaches at a number of specialty stores and kitchens throughout New England and New York. It’s fun to see people realize how easy it is, she says, adding that they’re often surprised to learn the jars don’t need to be boiled, given that the jam is cooked at a high enough temperature.

• Make a dip for cold shrimp (hot mustard with Apricot Orange jam, about half and half) • Serve with your favorite cheese (works with Nuts & Honey, too!) • Spoon some on top a soft goat cheese spread on a cracker • Mix with whipped cream and mound on angel food cake • Mix into Greek yogurt • Spread on hot French toast, pancakes, or scone • Mix a tablespoon into a martini • Fill a thumbprint cookie • Mix some Apricot Orange or Peach Ginger into simple rice • Add some chili to the Peach Ginger and serve with shrimp • Spoon on ice cream • Serve Black & Blue with roast pork • Slather ribs with Apricot Orange • Roast chicken wings with Red Pepper Jelly • Mix a little into quinoa with some scallions & nuts

Two other Bonnie’s Jams products as delicious as the jams are Red Pepper Jelly (which is made differently than the jams and uses citrus pectin) and Nuts & Honey (which is a Tuscaninspired treat that also goes well with blue cheese). Because the fruit itself is the prominent flavor profile and not distilled, Bonnie’s Jams are excellent for use in cooking and baking (we’ve included a recipe and other ideas). What a wonderful way to remember the summer flavors in winter. Bonnie’s Jams: www.bonniesjams.com Foodies of New England

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“The History of...”

Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Jodie Lynn Boduch, owner of Much Ado Marketing, serves as Social Media Director and Staff Writer for the Foodies team. She’s an adventurous explorer of the culinary landscape and enjoys writing about food. Educated in both business and history, she has big plans to put the latter to good use for this column.

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Vanilla

An orchid by any other name wouldn’t smell (or taste) as sweet.

r at least that’s so regarding the vanilla orchid, the fragrant blossom that grows to about 12 feet and yields the spice found in every baker’s kitchen in the Western world. It’s also the only orchid, of about 20,000 varieties, to produce anything edible.

Vanilla, from the Spanish vaina (“little pod”), is among the few spices used for both flavor and fragrance. Madagascar Bourbon, Mexican, and Tahitian are the most common types. Vanilla’s abundance in baking, cooking, and scented personal and decorative items doesn’t render it inexpensive: it’s one of the most cha-chingy spices in the world—$25/kilo in recent years, with a price jump lately due to shortages. Yet in order to learn about the history of vanilla, we have to turn to—wait for it—chocolate.

The Food of the Gods Paying attention is a good thing, as 16th-century Spanish conquistador Hernando Cortez proved when he took notice of a little something the Aztec Emperor Montezuma whipped up: namely, a cacao drink flavored with crushed vanilla beans. The Aztecs weren’t the first to cultivate vanilla: they came across it upon conquering the Totonaca tribe of southeastern Mexico. (See? Paying attention really is a good thing.) The Totonacas believed the vanilla bean to be a food bestowed on them by the gods—and it wasn’t long before the Aztecs gave a slow clap of approval, too. Vanilla was love at first sight (and smell, and taste) for Cortez. He brought some back to Spain, and, soon enough, vanilla-flavored chocolate was all the rage among those who could afford the trendy new delicacy.

Vanilla Moves to Europe and Beyond Until the 19th century, vanilla was grown only in Mexico and other regions of Central America partly because of a bee native to Mexico that pollinated the vanilla orchid and partly because of the short window for pollination (often just a day). Once botanists figured out how to transfer the plant for commercial usage across the pond, vanilla production expanded quite a bit. Even so, artificial pollination techniques only carried them so far; it was, in fact, a 12-year-old slave who discovered the manual pollination that truly facilitated vanilla’s horticultural success in Europe and its colonies: Madagascar, Comoro, Reunion (of the Bourbon family, hence the name Bourbon vanilla) produce most of the world’s vanilla supply. Other suppliers include India, Tahiti, Uganda, Papua New Guinea, and several other Caribbean and Latin American nations. (Continued on page 46)

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by hand. One bean is the equivalent of 2-3 teaspoons of extract.

(Continued from page 45)

As for Mexico, its vanilla is considered to be, pun intended, the cream of the crop. Translation: hit those duty-free shops on your next cruise with a Mexican port and stock up. Then you’ll be the envy of your vanilla-connoisseur friends and they’ll ask to see the bottle when they come over. (Not that we did that ourselves or anything...just an idea.)

Vanilla is for Lovers? It’s no accident that vanilla is a prominent note in numerous fragrances. Some believe there’s something more behind that distinct, intoxicating smell.

Where in the World…Matters Vanilla’s flavor is a product of its environment, much like coffee or wine. Soil, climate, surrounding flora, and other environmental factors affect the flavor profile. Madagascar Bourbon vanilla beans are the most widely used and have a sweet fragrance with intense vanillin overtones. They work well in desserts and sweet beverages. Mexican vanilla beans are mellower and smoother—excellent in both sweet and savory dishes,

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they have a woody aroma and are considered the best in the world. Tahitian beans, often used in fruit or savory dishes, have a licorice or cherry scent and a flavor akin to fruitiness. Vanilla is expensive because, to this day, it requires manual pollination. Although it’s available year-round, the entire agricultural process is labor-intensive, as cultivation and harvesting are also done

In Totonac lore, the daughter of a fertility goddess transformed herself into a vanilla plant to bring happiness to a Totonac would-be sweetheart. Centuries later, vanilla retains its reputation as a sensual scent, particularly as one that appeals to men. By “reputation” we mean it’s a natural mood enhancer, which means vanilla is often on the invitation list because it can…you know… get the party going. So, next time you overhear someone use “vanilla” to describe something boring, well—tell them Montezuma and Cortez, among others, beg to differ.

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CRAFTED by HAND Written by Christine Whipple Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ira Grable, Cheese Maker, also known as “The Big Cheese,” purchased Berkshire Blue four years ago from Michael Miller, who founded the company in 1998. Grable moved to the Berkshires and, after meeting Miller through a mutual friend, agreed to become the sole distributor for Berkshire Blue Cheese. One year later, with Miller deciding to “hang up the apron,” Grable bought Berkshire Blue. Miller stayed on for the first six months to teach and mentor Grable, and they continue to talk monthly.

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Berkshire Blue Cheese is crafted by hand with raw Jersey cow’s milk from Hav’s Farm in Tyringham MA. The hands-on approach to making Berkshire Blue Cheese includes vats being hand-stirred, curds being hand-cut and ladled into small three-pound molds that are then hand-turned, needled, and hand-turned again. Cheeses are turned every 12 hours during the first week, then every second day, for a total of 24 revolutions. All this, along with periodic core sampling during the maturing period, ensures that each wheel is inspected many times before being hand-wrapped and labeled during the nine weeks it takes to become Berkshire Blue. Berkshire Blue’s website offers some interesting information about the Jersey Cows: “Jersey milk has consistently high butterfat, calcium and protein contents. No other cows’ milk compares.” As well as interesting trivia: “Jersey cows have the highest IQ of domesticated bovines. Any farmer with a mixed herd will tell you that when his cows escape for greener pastures, it is usually a Jersey leading the herd.” And nothing at Berkshire Blue goes to waste. According to Grable, excess whey and milk goes back to the farm and is fed to the pigs.

The texture can range from semi-soft to semi-hard, even when the ingredients and taste remain consistent. This is due to the seasonal diet of the cows and is unrelated to the aging process. When asked about shelf life and serving Berkshire Blue, Grable’s says, “When Berkshire Blue goes to market 60 days from its birth, it is at its peak and will stay there if kept properly. You should refrigerate Berkshire Blue, but serve it at room temperature: It goes well with Port, Riesling, or Sauternes. Try it at breakfast! Instead of butter, have it on toast with a first-class marmalade, or melt it over eggs.” To learn more about Berkshire Blue and to arrange a tour, visit their website, Facebook page or blog. Berkshire Blue Cheese P.O. Box 35 Dalton, MA 01227 413-842-5128 www.berkshireblue.com

Berkshire Blue’s busiest season is March through December. Grable will pick up 200 gallons of raw milk three times a week during the busy season, two times a week offseason.

Ira Grable, aka. “The Big Cheese”

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Pairing Blue Cheese Named for its blue veins, blue cheese ranges from firm and crumbly to creamy in texture. All blue cheese is aged for 60 days or more for a flavor experience that tends to be bolder and more expressive than most other cheeses. Most blues are pleasantly sharp, with earthy flavors; sometimes youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll detect salt, pepper, or nuts. When shopping for blue cheese, a knowledgeable retailer is your best bet; most cheese shop owners will allow you to try a cheese before you buy it. If there is not a good retailer in your neighborhood, websites like iGourmet, Murrayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cheese, Ideal Cheese, or Formaggio Kitchen will offer a variety of cheese choices and descriptions. While most red wines do not pair well with strong, salty blues-and there are sweet semisoft to explorePort (preferably Tawny) and zinfandel are two to try, as well as sparkling wine, Chardonnay, barley winestyle ale, Belgian ale, Trappist beer, and stout. As a dessert, Roquefort and Sauternes are classic pairings, with the salty cheese balancing the sweet wine. Other suggested pairings include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Porter, Madeira, and Scotch. Pairing wines and cheeses from the same region is also a safe place to start wine and cheese combinations. The best pairings are those you discover on your own. Find a blue cheese you like, be brave and bold with wine and beer pairings, and let us know what you discover!

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to overcome these challenges, and why it’s important to you.” Budding activists posted their videos on www.facebook. com/groups/swaggsnacks, and the winning entries will be announced at a gala celebration on December 19.

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SWAGG Snacks, the latest food justice campaign from these tech-savvy young people, is a social marketing campaign aimed at middle and high school youth, which sprouted from their Healthy Corner Store Initiative.

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(Continued from page 109)

All produce harvested from the school’s garden in the summer is donated to local soup kitchens and food banks. To date, the school has donated over 2,500 pounds of produce.

Rhode Island Rhode Island youth know how to organize. ECO Youth (Environmental Com-

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munity Organizers), a branch of the Environmental Justice League of Rhode Island, has created a number of healthy eating initiatives. For Food Day, ECO Youth launched the SWAGG Snacks Video Challenge, offering cash prizes for the best video “about the challenges you, your family, or your friends face trying to eat healthful foods, how you try

Vermonters have a new tool in the search for healthy food—Vermont Eats—an app containing over 1,500 photos and 400 food listings, searchable by price, region, and type of business, including farmer’s markets, farm-to-table restaurants, gluten-free foods, vegetarian options, organic farms, health food stores, and more—with built-in Google maps and regular updates. Launched on Food Day, Vermont Eats is great for residents or travelers who want to eat healthy and support sustainable farms and businesses. www.FoodDay.org After this glimpse of the good works going on in our region, it is time for a visit to www.FoodDay.org. The site is a gateway to news, finding local food justice organizations, new events, and getting involved in the “movement for healthy, affordable, and sustainable food.” Photos at http://www.flickr.com/ groups/foodday2012/

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Hand in Hand Written by Peggy Bridges Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

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xpansive fields extend to the left and right of the country road as it rises toward the horizon, and ahead lays a panoramic view of the rolling hills of north-central Massachusetts. On the left, a historic farmhouse appears, tucked neatly behind a stone wall that borders the road. This is Stillmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Farm.

Heirloom Green ZebraTomatoes

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wned and operated by Glenn and Geneviève Stillman, the farm was reclaimed from old farm property that had become overgrown and fallow until it was purchased and revitalized by the Stillmans. Glenn grew up on a farm and brought with him 30 years of extensive knowledge and experience in successful farming practices. The original farmhouse, which had been added to in the 1800’s, was again expanded to provide housing for the seasonal staff who would harvest the crops. Hedgerows were trimmed, fields were tilled, and soil was tested and enriched. But it wasn’t enough for the Stillmans to plant a bountiful harvest. Glenn’s upbringing was firmly rooted in the concept of sustainable farming, the idea that people, plant life, and wildlife are all interdependent. So Stillman’s Farm has not just become a place where produce is grown; it is a complete habitat where plants and wildlife grow and thrive interdependently and harmoniously. There is even an active beekeeping operation on the farm. On Stillman’s Farm, crops are planted and harvested with the area’s wildlife in mind. Heavy plant residues are left on the fields in the fall to help sustain the wildlife and are not plowed under until the spring. This also helps to raise the level of organic matter in the soil, which in turn raises the level of nitrogen, reducing the need for added fertilizers. The Stillmans enjoy growing crops as much as they like watching the native wildlife species prosper along the hedgerows and surrounding wetlands.

Stillman’s Farm 1205 Barre Road New Braintree, MA 01531 508-867-7193 www.stillmansfarm.com

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Glenn’s children are grown now, and each operates a farm of their own. His daughter Kate runs the Turkey Farm, which sells grass-fed and chemical free meats and poultry, and his son Curtis runs Still Life Farm where orchards, fruits and vegetables abound. Both farms are located in Hardwick, Massachusetts. Glenn also still has a farm in Lunenburg which he purchased in 1980, prior to acquiring the New Braintree farm. All of the Stillman family farms use sustainable, local farming practices. During the growing season and for some time into the fall, harvested products from the combined Stillman operations are transported weekly to farmer’s markets in the Boston area. Private buyers and restaurant and business owners alike flock to purchase the wealth of foods delivered from the farms. Such is the life of a true farmer. There is something to be envied about the purity of earning a living from the land. The expression “good, clean living” was born of this lifestyle. It is obviously rewarding, as is evidenced by the easy, unhurried demeanor of the husband and wife team who are at the center of it all. On a cool fall afternoon after completion of the day’s work, a contented couple can be seen walking through the yard beside the farmhouse and relaxing with a glass of wine on a garden bench as they take in the breathtaking view of the sunset on the farm. As the sun sinks behind the rolling hills, another gratifying day of honest, rewarding work gives way to a peaceful evening in the quiet of the rural countryside.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The concept of sustainable farming is that people, plant life, and wildlife are all interdependentâ&#x20AC;?

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GeneviĂ¨ve Stillman & Jasper

Foodies of New England

Written by Brad Schwarzenbach Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Keeping the Confectionary Spirit Alive 62

Foodies of New England

t’s not always easy to keep old culinary traditions alive—but there are those out there who refuse to let them die. Enter Andrea Vickstrom and her sister Cindy Moran (both, née Astrella) who have been baking old-fashioned Italian cookies for holidays, weddings, showers, birthdays, and just about any other special event for more than 30 years. It’s a tradition they’ve been keeping alive since their mother, Sophie Astrella, passed in 2008. “It started when we were little girls, with just helping our mother and aunt when they would bake,” Andrea says. “Every party or event we went to, people would bring cookies. Women would gather and make these cookies. It was an extremely social thing.” “We’re making chocolate pizzettes, anise white cookies, Italian brownies...It’s actually like a chocolate chip cookie only smaller and thicker. Why it’s called a brownie, I don’t know,” Andrea says with a laugh. She admits that everyone has their favorites and she will customize a recipe to individual tastes. “My daughter doesn’t like anise so I’ll do white cookies with lemon extract instead.” She also admits that cookie baking can become competitive in these social circles. “All of my Italian friends have their own pizzette recipe and, I’m telling you, they’ll all swear theirs is the best. But, of course, mine’s really the best.” Their cookies have gotten so popular among family and friends that they take “orders” for gatherings all year long. “While we’ve brought some modern tools like power mixers to the process, the recipes stay the same and we never, ever use artificial ingredients. Honestly, if you’re not going to take the time to do it right from scratch, you might as well buy a mix because it won’t taste right. It’s a labor of love for us but we love doing it.” To learn more about these classic Italian confections, you can email Cindy & Andrea at askavick4@aol.com Cindy Morin and Andrea Vickstrom

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Gluten Free

Mid-Winter Comfort Foods Written by Ellen Allard Gluten Free Diva www.glutenfreediva.com Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ellen Allard, the Gluten Free Diva, is an over-the-moon enthusiastically hip and motivational Certified Holistic Health Coach who helps clients banish the bloat and embrace gluten free lifestyle changes that enable them to fall madly in love with the food that unequivocally loves them back. A graduate of the Institute for Integrative Nutrition, Ellen is a recipe developer, food writer, food photographer and videographer (www.glutenfreediva.com/blog/.) She passionately promotes optimal health through informed food choices and whole plant-based foods. She loves all things food and health and is happy to talk to you about the same!

Foodies of New England

Long, cold days, brrrrrr. Nothing feels quite as comforting in the middle of the winter as hot, stick-to-your-bones comfort food. Of course, the first thing that comes to my mind is my much-requested stained from years of use recipe for Beef Stew which I make in a crockpot. But I ask you, what’s a Gluten Free Diva to do, especially when she’s trying to stick to her New Year’s Resolutions of preparing lighter, plant-based recipes? Broccoli Mushroom Crustless Quiche, gluten free and dairy free, that’s the ticket. Light and creamy in a comfort food kind of way, bursting with a delicate flavor that will have you rethinking conventional comfort foods. And the menu includes Gluten Free Flatbreads sure to please. When I traveled to Tuscany, Italy in 2004, pre-Celiac diagnosis, I enjoyed many a pizza with salad atop it. Paying homage to that trip, I offer you an Arugula Salad atop flatbread that is really pizza crust in disguise. It’s perfectly legitimate to take a gluten free mix and reuse it with another purpose in mind. We gluten free folks have to get creative whenever we can. And who can resist sweet potato fries roasted to perfection, glazed with agave and finished with a squeeze of lime juice? And I wouldn’t be the Health Coach that I am if I didn’t take the opportunity to share with you that sweet potatoes have a very high nutritional value. They are high in vitamin C, calcium, folate, potassium and beta-carotene, they have a low glycemic index which means when youe at them, your blood sugar level won’t be spiked as quickly as if you ate a white potato. And they’re great for your skin. Instead of spending a bundle of money on fancy creams, eat a sweet potato! And did I mention that they are a superior, fiber-rich food? All good reasons to add sweet potatoes to your diet. So, as we make our way into 2013 and try to honor our resolutions for good health (don’t we all make them?!?), give some thought to a lighter sort of comfort food. And stay warm, my friends.

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Gluten Free Flatbread Ingredients: Bob’s Red Mill Pizza Mix 1 ½ c. warm water 2 large eggs 2 tbsp olive oil 1 package active dry yeast (not rapid-rising) Rice flour for dusting (or use other gluten free flour) Corn meal, optional Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Add pizza stone to oven to preheat them as well. Alternatively use the back of a large cookie baking sheet. Place mix and yeast packet in the bowl of a stand mixer (or use a regular bowl and hand mixer). Combine the water, eggs and olive oil in a measuring cup and whisk to blend. With mixer running, add liquid to dry mixture, starting on a slow speed. When ingredients are blended, increase to high speed and mix for 3 minutes. Place bowl in refrigerator to chill dough for 30 minutes. Remove bowl from refrigerator. Use rice flour to dust the surface on which you’ll shape the dough. The dough will be sticky, but using rice flour and a wet ice cream scoop will help you work with it. Dip an ice-cream scoop into a cup of water to wet it, scoop the dough and then place on the floured surface. Sprinkle some additional rice flour on top of the dough and begin gently spreading it into the shape of a circle with the palm of your hand. Add flour as needed, if your hand begins to stick to the dough. When your desired shape and size has been reached, sprinkle one side of dough with some corn meal. Gently coax the dough you’ve shaped onto a spatula. Place on the pizza stone. Bake 4 minutes, then flip and bake another 4 minutes, or until both sides just turn golden brown. Depending on your oven, you might need to bake them for less or more time. Remove from oven and place on cooling rack for five minutes then place some of the arugula salad on top of each flatbread.

Arugula Salad Ingredients: Arugula Red pepper, diced Olive oil Lemon juice S&P Combine arugula and red pepper in a bowl. Drizzle with some olive oil. Add some freshly squeezed lemon juice. Finish with salt and pepper to taste. The amount of olive oil and lemon juice you use will be according to your own personal taste. I like equal amounts; you might find it too sour in which case add more olive oil.

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Broccoli Mushroom Quiche Ingredients: 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 c. chopped onion 1 c. sliced button mushrooms 2 c. broccoli flowerettes 6 large eggs ½ c. + 2 tbsp soy creamer 1 c. + 2 tbsp Daiya non-dairy cheese (cheddar flavor) a touch of freshly grated nutmeg ¼ tsp sea salt freshly ground pepper Preheat oven to 375° F. Heat vegetable oil in a large cast iron skillet (or one that can go in the oven). Saute onion, mushrooms and broccoli in vegetable oil over medium heat for five minutes. Remove from heat. Meanwhile, beat eggs and soy creamer until blended. Add Daiya cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. After vegetables have been sautéed for five minutes and removed from heat, pour liquid mixture over sautéed vegetables. Place in preheated oven and cook for 25 minutes. Use a toothpick to check for doneness. Toothpick should come out clean. Let quiche stand for five minutes before serving.

Sweet Potato Fries Ingredients: 3 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into wedges 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp agave 1 tsp cumin ¼ tsp chipotle powder ½ tsp salt Lime juice Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place a baking sheet in the oven to preheat it as well. This will help crisp the fries. In a large bowl, toss the wedges of sweet potato with olive oil, agave, cumin, chipotle powder, and salt. Combine thoroughly so all the pieces are coated with the mixture. Spread the potato wedges on a baking sheet, in a single layer. Bake for 25 – 30 mimnutes, turning after the first 15 minutes, until browned and crisp. Let cool for 5 minutes before you serve them. Drizzle with lime juice just before serving.

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BEST in BREWERIES

Berkshire Brewing Written by David G. Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Stout. Ale. BEER. Such simple one-syllable words. Ah, but what complex craft to create them! Friends Chris Lalli and Gary Bogoff started their “beer thing” in 1992. Both loved beer and wanted to make a go of it, as both were home brewers. Chris and Gary spent three years (!) reviewing recipes and looking for the right space, which, in hindsight, may have been overthinking, as they have moved or expanded at least FOUR times since that first property purchase. Neither of the founders come from a pro brewer’s background. Chris was a laser welding tech and Gary a building contractor and then a highway superintendent. But they had a mutual dream and went for it.

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“Our friends encouraged us to go from home brewing to the next level and turn ‘pro’,” said Gary, “and we were just crazy enough to do it!” They intended to brew only draft beers, but it quickly became apparent that there was enough demand from customers to provide bottled beers, so they expanded into that side of the business as well. Since they had limited financial resources to set up a full on bottling assembly line, they Rube Goldberged a temporary setup using plastic coolers, makeshift hosings, and so on. “We had an incredible support group of volunteers of family and friends. When I was a contractor, no one offered to carry a load of shingles up to the roof for me, but once we asked for help with the beer production, everybody wanted to pitch in,” said Gary. Within two years of business, BBC went from brewing 24 barrels (the equivalent of 774 gallons at 31 gallons per barrel) per week to 77

barrels (2,387 gallons) per week. With this success came several new ales and the introduction of seasonal lagers to the family. By 1999, demand for these fresh local brews was exceeding expectation—BBC was in need of more space. Gary and Chris began an expansion by building a 3,000 square foot addition on the north side for the offices, freeing up valuable space for production and getting employees out of the glorified closets that had served as offices for the first five years. As BBC continued to grow, many more changes to the physical building and product distribution followed suit. In January 2003, BBC brought on G. Housen, a distributor who would take Berkshire brews throughout Vermont. In April 2005, BBC opened a warehouse in Worcester to serve the central and eastern Massachusetts markets. Then in August 2005, BBC began self-distributing in Connecticut, opening an office

and a warehouse in Enfield. Demand for BBC’s family of fine ales and lagers continued to grow, and they were again in need of more space. In 2005 (quite a year for the business), Gary and Chris made an expansion on the south side of the building. This expansion allowed for a four-truck garage, a cooler, and a packaging room. In 2008, BBC graduated from microbrewery status and became a regional brewery, producing over 15,000 barrels (465,000 gallons!) for the first time. In addition, BBC’s Worcester location was moved to North Oxford to accommodate demand. In July 2008, Berkshire Brewing started self-distributing in Rhode Island from a new warehouse in Westerly. They now employ 55 staff, producing around ten classic beers, a half dozen seasonal beers, and specialty beers as they come up with an idea. Some of the names are a mouthful - Dean’s Bean’s Coffeehouse Porter, Gold Spike German-style Kolsch,

Lawrence George, Caleb Goodrich and Jared Sena

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Raspberry Barley Wine-Style Ale, and the topper Gude Greg’s Wee Heavy Private Reserve Bourbon Barrel Aged Scotch Ale. This last one was crafted in honor of their late friend Greg Noonan and is aged for six months in barrels that formerly held bourbon. As the website states, Greg was “a pioneer, a mentor, an inspiration, a friend.” A portion of the proceeds from the sale of this ale is donated to the Greg Noonan Scholarship Fund at the American Brewers Guild. “We still have a loyal local fan base, as these are many of the same folks who helped with the heavy lifting when we were just getting started and we had no guarantee of success,” Gary said. “We were in the right place at the right time when small craft brewing was first gaining traction, and we remember the lean early days and do whatever we can to maintain that local support, even now where we are distributing over most of New England.” As the bottom line on their site says, “It’s all about the beer, but beer is nothing without the people” - Gary & Chris All the brews crafted at BBC are unfiltered and unpasteurized. They host weekly tastings at the brewery along with tasting and cask parties at venues across New England. Berkshire Brewing Company Inc. 12 Railroad Street South Deerfield, MA 01373 413-665-6600 www.berkshirebrewingcompany.com

Foodies of New England

BEST in BREWERIES

Allagash Brewery Stands Out From the Pack Written by Kelly Kassa Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

With approximately 130 breweries in New England, it can be hard to select which ones to visit. Allagash provides an interesting experience and should be a ‘must do’ for beer drinkers – even those who lean towards traditional beers over craft beers. Most other brewery tours are fairly formulaic: tour the brewery, learn about the process, get the opportunity to see and feel hops, answer questions from the tour guide, and then go to the tasting room to get 2 oz samples of some beers.

Foodies of New England

and less hoppy than standard beers, it opens the door to people who wouldn’t normally drink craft beers. It’s a gateway beer.” This philosophy is demonstrated in the flavors of beers produced by Allagash. Many people start with Allagash’s flagship beer, Allagash White, which is available year round. Their other year-round beers are Dubbel, Tripel, Four, Black, and Curieux. But Allagash doesn’t stop there. The brewery currently makes seven specialty beers, four limited edition beers, three collaboration beers, and a coolship series. They also brew a Tribute series, with $1.00 of each sale going to a charity. Some of these special beers are brewed in limited numbers and are only available for purchase at the brewery. “We push the boundaries of what beer is,” said Germain. “We do things with beer that no one else does.” Their coolship series is a great example of Allagash’s innovation. The coolship beers are exposed to the open air and take three years to be ready for consumption; standard beers are ready in three to five days.

Allagash takes a different approach. Their three daily tours, which are limited to 35 people, start with the beer tasting, followed by the brewery tour. “We work hard at giving our visitors a really good experience,” said Dee Dee Germain, a brewer who also handles Allagash’s communications. “Our crew is very educated about beer. As a result, they can customize each tour based on the visitors’ knowledge of beer.” The brewery’s beer tour experience comes from the unique story behind the brewery and the beer. Allagash was founded by Rob Tod as a result of his

Foodies of New England

stint working a low-level job at a brewery. Within two days he knew brewing beer was what he wanted to do with his life. He founded Allagash in 1995 and sold his first keg to Portland’s Great Lost Bear that same year. Tod had a specific type of beer he wanted to brew – Belgian-style beer. He had recognized that there were plenty of German- and British-style beers, but few Belgian-style beers. “Rob feels Belgian-style beers offer more latitude and flexibility than beers like pale ales and porters,” said Germain. “Because they are less bitter

“No one thought the coolship process was doable here,” adds Germain. “We’re the only brewery in the U.S. doing it.” Allagash’s story is one of success. They now have 10 brewers and 53 employees; they are the second largest brewery in Maine and have started an expansion. Beer drinkers should definitely check out Allagash. Allagash Brewing Co. 50 Industrial Way Portland, ME 04103 800-330-5385 www.allagash.com

Foodies of New England

BEST in BREWERIES

Wormtown Brewery Bringing Brewing Back to Worcester Written by Brad Schwarzenbach Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

For years, beer has been considered the intoxicant of the unwashed masses. Picture any home game Sunday in Foxboro with can upon can of watery domestic lager in the hands of thousands of football fansâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; some of that beer may even land in their mouths. But the burgeoning craft beer movement is challenging this tasteless perception. And much of that challenge is being driven by the small, independent breweries of New England.

Foodies of New England

Boston and Burlington have thriving craft beer cultures but Wormtown Brewery in Worcester, Massachusetts is starting to put their own hops-infused stamp on the region. The brainchild of co-owners Tom Oliveri and brewmaster Ben Roesch, Wormtown has been making cutting-edge beers, defined and shaped by the best ingredients New England has to offer, since 2010. “Our motto is: ‘A piece of Mass in every glass,” says Oliveri. No matter the style or brew, Roesch insists that only fresh, top quality, locally-sourced ingredients go into it. And, while it might be easier or cheaper to outsource ingredients or even production, keeping things local is an essential part of their brand’s character. “You want to make a name for yourself in your home market,” Oliveri says. “We’re a small operation in the city but we talk to the people so we know what’s working and what’s not,

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then try different things. That response, it gets their attention.” Local knowledge even informs the names of their beers. Their Seven Hills Pale Ale honors the nickname for Worcester. Be Hoppy IPA features the iconic yellow smiley-face designed by Harvey Ball in Worcester in 1963. The name itself, Wormtown, is a nod to the late 1970s underground local music magazine, Wormtown Punk Punk Press. “We’re the first brewer in Worcester in 60 years. Being a part of the community is important and it helps,” Oliveri says. But Wormtown doesn’t thrive on local appeal or clever naming alone. “Rule number one for us is we don’t cut corners. It affects quality and quality is of the utmost importance. We’ve had to drop some suppliers because we couldn’t get the consistent quality we needed,” he adds.

Roesch noted that with an increased interest in craft beers and obscure styles, the challenge constantly grows to be creative and introduce new flavors to the market. “It’s like fashion trends. Beer flavors come in and out of style. Right now, IPAs and sours are really hot. But next season, it could be something else.” Their operation is extremely small but it’s not an overnight garage operation. Roesch is a classicallytrained brewer, mentored by Will Meyers of Cambridge Brewing Company. Success hasn’t come easily, not that Roesch expected it to. “The quality out there right now is unbelievable. Nanobrewers are coming in as hobbyists but they’re also making boundary-defying beers,” he says. “Getting share of mind with the distributors and retailers is hard.”

Fortunately for Tom and Ben, their beers are extremely distinctive. Their Be Hoppy IPA, in particular, reaches just to the limits of hops flavor without going overboard. It’s an unusual flavor if you’re used to common domestic lagers, but an extremely powerful one. The strong citrus and bitterness make it an exceptionally good, if unlikely, pair with a perfectly-grilled, lightly-seasoned sirloin. Their hard work is also garnering notice at beer festivals across the world. Wormtown’s Pro-Am Porter took a bronze medal at the 2010 Great American Beer

Festival, silver at the 2012 World Beer Cup, and first place at the 2012 New York International Beer Competition. As craft beers take up more and more space at the bar and on liquor store shelves, Roesch and Oliveri don’t delude themselves about the challenge they face. “Domestic lagers are still 93 percent of what people drink,” Oliveri says. “Simply getting the beer into people’s hands is hard enough. But, once you do, and they taste all that flavor, it becomes a no-brainer and that’s what they want to drink.”

Wormtown beers are currently available in bars across Massachusetts, but they’re working on expanding across the region and into liquor stores in the near future. And, of course, growlers are available direct from the brewery adjoining Peppercorn’s Grille & Tavern at 455 Park Ave., Worcester. Wormtown Brewery 455 Park Ave. Worcester, MA 01610 774-239-1555 www.wormtownbrewery.com

Tom Oliveri, Ben Roesch and Tyler Fitzgerald

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Food for Thought

Written by Peggy Bridges Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Peggy Bridges is a high school Business and Graphic Arts teacher. She is a Yearbook Advisor and Editor, and her writing has also been published in a national educatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magazine. Peggy is a firm believer in healthy living and an active lifestyle. She enjoys many outdoor activities with her husband and children. Her recipe for a perfect afternoon is a hike with her family and lunch on a blanket served from a picnic basket packed with great food and bottle of good wine.

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Drink Your Dessert The after dinner indulgence Ahhh…

You’ve just finished a delicious dinner. As you lean back in your chair and relish the satisfaction of having eaten a carefully-prepared selection of epicurean delights, you’re tempted to make the magic last just a little bit longer. Why not? What better way is there to top off a fabulous meal than to treat yourself to a finishing touch? You may decide to browse the dessert selections…or you could drink your dessert instead. There’s a whole world out there that consists of after-dinner libations, many of which are so delicious that you almost want to rush through the meal just to get to the really good stuff. If you succumb to the temptation, the next thing you’ll have to ponder is what to have. The choices are almost endless. Of course, you can always partake of a classic Irish Coffee or any of a number of delicious after-dinner wines, which merit an entirely separate discussion in and of themselves. But if you’d like to venture a bit further, your choice of libation can take you in two different directions. You can go the route of something neat, warm and soothing, or you could choose something creamy and delicious—much like a ‘normal’ dessert itself—only better because of the added benefit of the alcohol. There are classic choices, and there is also a constantly evolving menu of newly-developed creations to choose from as well. Where do you begin? A good start is to decide whether you want something neat or sweet, then begin exploring the options within that realm. If you’re tempted to try a drink with somewhat of a celebrity status, you could try a classic such as a Brandy Alexander or a Stinger Cocktail. There are neat drinks such as the French Connection and the Framboise Kiss, cream drinks like the Grasshopper, and layered drinks exemplified by the B & B and the B-52. Then there is, as I mentioned, a myriad of contemporary concoctions so numerous that they can set your head spinning. The key to knowing what you want is reading the ingredients. You know what you like, so base your choice on ingredients that appeal to you. You will, of course, have to summon up a certain amount of courage and take a leap of faith if you’re going to try something you haven’t had before, but it may very well be worth the leap: so don’t be afraid to feed your sense of adventure and try something you haven’t had before. (Continued on page 82)

Foodies of New England

(Continued from page 81)

If you’re not sure where to start, check out the ingredients in some of these drinks, and see if you’re tempted to take a walk on the wild side. Neat drinks – Originally intended to be a digestive aide after a hearty meal. Try the French Connection. FRENCH CONNECTION Ingredients: Ice cubes 1 shot brandy 1 shot Amaretto di Saronno Preparation: Pour brandy and Amaretto over ice in an old-fashioned glass. Cream drinks – For those who like sweet endings with a dessert-like mouth feel. A classic is the Brandy Alexander. BRANDY ALEXANDER Ingredients: 1 shot brandy 1 shot crème de cacao 1 equal measure of cream Preparation: Shake with ice cubes, pour into a cocktail glass, and dust with nutmeg. Contemporary Concoctions - If your palate is more adventurous and you’re inclined to jump into newer trends, you could try some of these tasty treats. AFTER DINNER COCKTAIL (How’s that for an original name?)

Ingredients: Ice cubes 1 part triple sec 1 part apricot liqueur 1 splash of lime juice Preparation: Shake the ingredients and strain into a martini glass. SPIKED HOT APPLE CIDER Ingredients: 8 oz. apple cider 1 shot Ginger Brandy 1 cinnamon stick 1 orange slice for garnish Preparation: Heat the apple cider; add the shot of ginger brandy. Stand the cinnamon stick in the mug of hot cider and brandy, and garnish with the orange slice.

Foodies of New England

Layered drinks – Layered cordial drinks comprised of three or more “stripes” of ingredients. A perfect example is the B-52. B-52 Ingredients: 1 part Kahlua 1 part Bailey’s Irish Cream 1 part Grand Marnier Preparation: Pour the Kahlua first. Add the Bailey’s slowly with a spoon over the Kahlua. Float the Grand Marnier over the first two layers. Classics - There are many classic after-dinner cocktails that are definitely worth tasting. If you dare to try one, you may see why these tried and true recipes have been around for a long time. IRISH COFFEE Ingredients: Ice cubes 1 or 2 shots whiskey (Irish of course) Hot filter coffee 1 shot cream, lightly whipped Preparation: Pour the whiskey into a glass mug and top up with the coffee. Float the cream on top.

Cordials are usually poured in small cordial glasses poured only three-fourths full, or in a double-shot glass. The last category of single-ingredient after-dinner drinks is the brown liquors. These are often considered to be sophisticated choices having a very distinct flavor, and are often an acquired taste. Usually served on the rocks and often paired with a fine cigar, they include brandy, whiskey, scotch, cognac, and bourbon. If you’re not in the habit of partaking of brown liquors after dinner, you may want to ease yourself into the venture. Although some of us have visions of wealthy, well-connected men smoking cigars and sipping the finest of brandies, scotch, and cognac while enjoying a fine Cuban cigar in a “Gentlemen’s club,” it’s also not for the faint of heart—or stomach. Start with a few small sips and slowly ease yourself into the “habit.” Such is the world of the apéritif. There are as many choices as there are moods and personalities. Consider it a whole new foodie adventure and embrace it with open arms. Call it the icing on the cake, the pièce de résistance—whatever term of endearment you assign to the after-dinner cocktail, it is certainly a fitting finish to any meal. Sources: www.sheknows.com, www.cocktailmixingmaster. com, www.americancocktails.com.

GRASSHOPPER Ingredients: Ice cubes 1 part green crème de menthe (peppermint liqueur) 1 part white crème de menthe 1 splash cream Preparation: Shake the ingredients and strain into a martini glass. Garnish: Mint leaves. Single Ingredient After-Dinner Treats - If you’re not one to like multi-ingredient drink recipes, there are always the cordials and the brown liquors that can provide quite a nice finish to a satisfying dinner. Cordials tend to have very cultural roots. Italian favorites like Frangelico, Sambuca, Grappa, and Amaretto are wonderful sipped on their own, but can also be added to hot coffee. Frangelico has a hazelnut flavor, Sambucca tastes like anise or licorice, Amaretto has an almond flavor, and Grappa (made from grapes) tastes much like brandy. Even more decadent cordials which can also be enjoyed either by themselves or in coffee or milk are Irish cream, chocolate flavor liqueurs, and Kahlua. There are also coffee flavor liqueurs like Tia Maria or fruit flavored liqueurs like Grand Marnier (cherry) and Chambord (raspberry) that make great choices for a sweet after-dinner beverage. Foodies of New England

(Continued from page 29)

An added benefit of farm-to-table for Dave is the pride that comes along with it. “It’s nice to see where the food is coming from and be able to relay that to our guests.” Dave and his team work with the Vermont Fresh Network, a chef and farmer partnership dedicated to connecting local food producers. And it’s ridiculously fresh; Dave roughs out the menu each week, but he only finalizes the evening’s fare by 4pm that day. But the locavore qualities don’t end there. Even the bar is stocked with regional brews and liquors. “Most people just think of the house brews,” said Charlotte, “but there’s so much more.” Vermont has some excellent distilleries that offer the best in local liquor from gin to vodka and even rum.

Location, Location, Location The Red Clover Inn is located in the heart of the Green Mountain National Forest, quite close to Pico and Killington ski resorts. This means you have year-round access to some of the best outdoor sports New England has to offer. Just off Route 4 corridor, in the midst of an unspoiled landscape, you can ski and ride, bike, golf, hike, swim, kayak and even cross-country ski all just minutes away from the inn. Even try out snow-

While the atmosphere is haute-casual and you might not witness much denim at dinner, there isn’t exactly a dress code. “If someone arrives in shorts, I’ll seat them,” admitted Dave. So pack up your comfortable weekend classics and head over to the Red Clover Inn. It’s feels just like home, but vastly better.

shoeing right on the property.

Lodging and rates vary depending on room and time of year. Guest room rate is based on double occupancy and includes accommodations for two, breakfast for two and personalized help planning your itinerary.

can stay on-site and take in the outdoor hot tub

The Red Clover Inn P.O. Box 276 US Route 4 Killington, VT 05751 802-775-2290 • 800-752-0571 www.redcloverinn.com

stunning grounds.

Feel like staying indoors? Not to worry. There’s shopping and day spas within close proximity as well. If you can’t be bothered to start up the car, you or the en-suite Jacuzzis. Feel like staying dry? There’s live music in the tavern and bonfires on the

Wine, Wein, Vino, Vinho, Vin If you can’t make a weekend of it, at least make it down for the monthly wine dinner. “Food plays an important role in our enjoyment of wine,” said Innkeeper Annie Kuehl. And she’s completely right. “Wines are paired with both the expected regional specialties and surprise tastes enhance the flavors found in the wines.” The 2013 bill includes Germany and Austria, the Pacific Northwest and Sake in January, February and March respectively. If you feel like making a night of it, the Wine Weekend Getaway Package offers 20% off your room when you book a two-night stay and two tickets to the Wine Dinner.

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Stay Tuned for 2013 Results in our Spring/Summer Issue! Worcester’s Best Chef At the time this issue of Foodies of New England went to print, the results of WBC 2013 were not available. Stay tuned for a full layout of in our Spring/Summer 2013 issue. Meanwhile, a special thank you to all chefs and attendees who made the WBC 2012 competition a wild success. And congratulations to the winners:

Overall Iron Chef Winner: Chris Rovezzi of Rovezzi’s Ristorante in Sturbridge, MA.

The People’s Choice Awards: Wilson Wang of BABA Sushi (left). Runners-up: Al Maykel of EVO Dining in Worcester, MA (right) and Bill Nemeroff of Ceres Bistro at the Beechwood Hotel in Worcerster, MA (center).

Judge’s Picks: Chris Rovezzi of Rovezzi’s Ristorante in Sturbridge, MA (center). Runners-up: Wilson Wang of BABA Sushi in Worcester, MA (left) and Dan O’Sullivan of Sonoma Restaurant in Princeton, MA (right).

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IT’S ALL ABOUT

Foodies of New England

THE GLASS

Written by Honey Hess Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

It doesn’t matter whether your glass is halffull or half-empty when it comes to the full appreciation of a draught of beer, but it might just matter what you’re drinking from. Connoisseurs, as well as scientists, are beginning to probe the possibility that the vessel you’re drinking from is what transforms a good beer into a magical taste experience.

Foodies of New England

The glass artists at the Worcester Center for Crafts Glass Studio believe that a hand-crafted glass can transform slaking thirst into the ultimate foodie experience of beer. Located on New Street in Worcester, the Glass Studio carries on glass-making traditions that are thousands of years old blended with contemporary art and aesthetics: glass making is perhaps as old as beer making. Beer glasses are blown and molded with great attention to form and balance in order to enhance the eye-appeal, flavor, and experiential texture of specific kinds of beer. A Weissbeir â&#x20AC;&#x153;vaseâ&#x20AC;? brings out the best in a Bavarian Heffeweisse, a large tulip glass shows off the translucent beauty of a Belgian or French Ale, and a hefty-handled stein connects an Oktoberfest to its earthy elements. Pouring, you first see the color, the head, the translucency and the carbonation through the shimmering glass and when you tip the glass to begin, your lips touch a smooth, cold frosting (the glass). The size, shape and smoothness of the rim allow you to sip or gulp and to savor the particulars of what you are drinking. This exquisite experience makes it hard to remember

Foodies of New England

that the glass touching your lips was heated to temperatures in excess of 2000 degrees and that the glass had become a thick viscous liquid-like honey, malleable enough to be shaped into just the right vessel for a foodie experience with beer! For more information on glass, creating your own beer vessel, or how to buy handcrafted vessels, call the Worcester Center for Crafts: 508.753.8183.

The Worcester Center for Crafts is located at 25 Sagamore Road and offers classes, exhibitions, and a gallery store. The Glass Studio is located on New Street in Worcester. www.worcestercraftcenter.org

Foodies of New England

Coming in the next issue of Foodies of New England!

Portland’s Craft Beer Week: A Festival of Flavors Written by Kelly Kassa

Portland’s Craft Beer Week, which took place November 4 – 11, 2012, featured events of all kinds and enough varieties of beer to satisfy even the most particular beer connoisseur. The multi-day series of events was supported by 17 Maine-based breweries as well as breweries from California, New Hampshire, New York, Vermont and even Belgium. The Maine Craft Brewers Guild also backed the events.

The Taste of Summer

The 60+ events were organized by Allison Stevens, proprietor of the Thirsty Pig pub. The choices went far beyond basic beer tastings, with events such as a beer carnival, a fashion show with beer(!), runs between participating pubs, and a women’s happy hour. Many of Portland’s best restaurants hosted events, including Great Lost Bear, Nosh, and Shipyard Brewery. Stevens arranged for the Maine Brew Bus Port City Beer Shuttle to participate, too. Portland Craft Beer Week was more than just a way to drink beer. It was also a showcase – and business driver – for the participating restaurants.

The Color of Food

“The first week of November is one of the slowest weeks of the year,” said Stevens. “Portland Craft Beer Week helped our restaurants to bring in more revenue during an otherwise slow week. In fact, East Ender saw its best night ever.” Portland Craft Beer Week 2013 begins on November 10, 2013. Beer lovers should definitely put it on their calendar. Visit www.portlandbeerweek.org for details.

Barbeque Season!

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know

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memorable. Contact Domenic Mercurio at: domenic@foodiesofnewengland.com 508-471-1171

Sweet Sensations

Chocolate Porter Bread Pudding When I think of winter desserts, the first thing that comes to mind is bread pudding. So naturally, when I was told the theme of this issue was comfort food and local New England beer, I thought I should combine the two in one delicious dessert. I have two favorite seasonal beers that are both from Massachusetts: Genghis Pecan and Sweet Tats. The first, Genghis Pecan, is a pecan pie porter from Clown Shoes Brewing. This beer has a nutty, malty caramel note to it with almost no bitterness at all, making it easy to drink and perfect to pair with desserts.

Written by Alina Eisenhauer Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

As the Executive Pastry Chef and Owner of Sweet - serving up cakes and cupcakes during the day, and cocktails, appetizers & desserts in the evening has earned Alina Eisenhauer many accolades. In addition to being a successful chef and entrepreneur, Alina has been featured on three of Food Networks most popular competition Shows; Chopped, Cupcake Wars and most recently winning the premier episode of Sweet Genius. Alina’s custom cakes have earned her a celebrity following as well as an appearance on the current season of Bravo TV’s hit show The Real Housewives of New York City. Sweet 305 Shrewsbury Street Worcester MA 01604 508-373-2248 www.sweetworcester.com

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The second is an oatmeal stout from Wormtown Brewing. Brewed with locally roasted coffee, cocoa nibs and vanilla, Sweet Tats is a natural fit with dessert. In general, porters and stouts both pair nicely with caramel and chocolate, so I created a rich chocolate bread pudding with a caramel pecan topping— decadent comfort food at its best, not to mention perfect for the cold winter months. Each beer only comes in 22oz bottles, meaning there’s just enough left over for you to enjoy a glass alongside the warm bread pudding as it comes out of the oven. Makes one 9” x 13” pan Ingredients: 1 loaf of Italian bread (approx. 1lb 4oz) 8 oz semi-sweet or dark chocolate, chopped 1 cup heavy cream 1 cup milk 12 oz (1 ½ cups) Genghis Pecan Porter or Sweet Tats Stout 7 large eggs 1 cup light brown sugar 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 2 tbs soft butter (for greasing the pan) Topping: 1 1/2 cups chopped pecans 1/2 cup light brown sugar 3 oz (6 tbs) cold unsalted butter, chopped 2 tbs all purpose flour

DIRECTIONS 1. Pre-heat oven to 350Â°. 2. Mix topping ingredients together, using a fork or pastry cutter, to form a crumbly streusel. Set aside. 3.

Cut the bread into approximately 1â&#x20AC;? cubes and place in a greased pan. It should fill the pan completely and may even slightly mound above the rim.

4. Place the chopped chocolate in a medium sized bowl and set aside. 5.

In a small saucepan, heat the heavy cream until it comes to a boil. Remove from heat and pour over the chocolate. Let the mixture sit for a few minutes then stir with whisk until smooth.

6. Slowly add the milk to the chocolate mixture stirring to incorporate and then repeat the process with the beer. 7. In another bowl, whisk the eggs with the sugar and nutmeg. Slowly add the chocolate mixture to the egg mixture and whisk to combine. 8. Pour the liquid mixture over the bread as evenly as possible. Gently press the bread down to be sure it is evenly soaked. 9. Cover with foil and bake for 40 minutes or until just barely set. Remove foil, and sprinkle the topping evenly on top. 10. Return it to the oven, uncovered, for another 12- 15 minutes. 11. Serve with fresh whipped cream or vanilla ice cream and the beer you used to make it. Enjoy!

Foodies of New England

Brew Review

Major Beer Category: Ale Major Style Category: Stout Sub Style Category: Russian Imperial Stout What is a Stout? What is a Stout? This category of beer as defined by the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) includes Dry Stout, Sweet Stout, Oatmeal Stout, Foreign Extra Stout, American Stout, and Russian Imperial Stout. The color spectrum for each of these respective styles ranges from medium to dark brown, reddish brown, black, and jet black. They are very similar in taste with subtle differences. Dry, Sweet, and Oatmeal Stouts have very distinct coffee and chocolate notes. Sweet and Oatmeal Stouts also present creamlike sweetness. Foreign Extra Stouts, American Stouts, and Russian Imperial Stouts are enhanced by subtle burnt notes and dark fruit aromatics. The alcohol contents ranges from 4% - 12% ABV with Dry Stouts having the least amount of alcohol and Russian Imperial Stouts the highest.

Written by Matt Webster Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Matt Webster is a craft beer enthusiast, educator, event goer, blogger, restaurant adviser, private dinner consultant, celebrity video show host and above all, proudly passionate about all things beer.

What is a Russian Imperial Stout? This beer showcases reddish brown to jet black color; when poured properly, a deep tan to dark brown head forms at the top. The most complex of all the Stout styles, the aroma and mouthful are rich and full-flavored, with notes of unsweetened chocolate, coffee, and mocha. Subtle fruit esters in the form of dates, figs, and dried cherries are also present. Starting in the 18th century, this beer was brewed to a higher gravity to sustain the long voyage from England to the Baltic countries and Russia. Originally brewed as an “extra stout,” the addition of the word “Russian” stems from the demands from Czarina Catherine the Great to have more of this beer at the Russian Imperial Court. The alcohol content ranges from 8% to 12%. Serve at 40 – 55 degrees. Our Choice: North Coast Brewing Company Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout (Fort Bragg, California) Why did we choose this beer? One of the best, if not the best, Russian Imperial Stout in the world, Old Rasputin dazzles the palate with a thick coating of chocolate, cocoa, mocha, and subtle coffee notes. Rich, creamy, and viscous, it is exquisitely balanced with an abundance of hops, leaving a slight bitterness and somewhat dry, mouth-coating finish. Works seamlessly with Chef Alina Eisenhauer’s dessert pick for this issue of Foodies (see Sweet Sensations). Where can you find it in a 4-pack? KJ Baarons, Mass Liquors, Austin Liquors, Julio’s Liquors, Marlborough Wine & Spirits, Wine Nation. Where Can You Find It On Draft or In The Bottle*: The Dive Bar, The Boynton, The Horseshoe Pub, The Armsby Abbey, Sweet ***Note: This beer may not always be available at the above locations at all times.

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Healthy at Home

Recipes by Elaine Pusateri Cowan Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

www.elaineslife.com Elaine strives to create beauty everyday. Whether sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designing web pages or interiors, preparing appetizers or entrees and even refinishing furniture or making art, she always looks to satiate her appetite for all things artistic. As an artist, foodie, interior designer and amateur photographer, Elaine believes in the quality of a sustainable life, not just living well. Her strong sense of duty to integrate such sustainability into every aspect of domestic life begins with perhaps the most basic of all elements: diet. She believes that anyone equipped with a stocked pantry and local produce can whip up quick, fresh, and delicious meals every night.

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When it’s cold outside, I can’t think of anything better than coming home to a hot meal served at a set table. I grew up in a home where we set the table every night— with tablecloths and china on Sundays. I carry this tradition on with my own family almost every night: delicious food, served* beautifully. And when food sets the mood, my roasted butternut squash and two-bean chili topped with a warm wedge of cornbread is the ultimate in healthy comfort. This super simple, but seriously satisfying one-pot meal is an ode to flavor. The culmination of spices—ground chipotle pepper, coriander, cumin, smoked paprika and, the wild card, Dutch cocoa—combat the cold and dark of winter with their heat, rich color and depth of flavor. A dollop of sour cream, a few pickled red onions and a sprig or two of cilantro finish the dish with an unexpected zing. This recipe is incredibly easy to throw together, but there are a few ingredients, such as the beans and the pickled onions that need time to be their best. Sure, they literally take just a few minutes to prepare, but they do need to soak for hours beforehand. I always try to use dried beans in my recipes. They’re the healthier choice (no extra salt, no weird gray liquid and no soggy texture) but the real kicker is how inexpensive dried beans are. This is a high quality, high protein, low-cost meal. However, if you’re in a hurry, canned beans are a great substitute, just be sure to choose a brand where the only ingredients are beans, water and salt. Quality ingredients make this chili special, and for me, shopping at local specialty stores is part of the foodie experience. You can support your local businesses and there is the added benefit of a warm, Cheers-like welcome when you walk through the doors. Have questions? Check out Elaine’s blog www.elaine-domesticbydesign.com. Artisian Casserole Dish by Tom White www.worcester.edu/wcc

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Roasted Butternut Squash Chili Ingredients: 1 cup of red kidney beans 1 cup of black pinto beans 1 large butternut squash 2 swirls of canola oil 1 large Vidalia onion 3 stalks of celery 3 bell peppers-red, yellow, green 1 jalapeno pepper (optional) 1 tsp of ground chipotle pepper 2 tsps of chili pepper 2 tsps of ground coriander 2 tsps of ground cumin 1 tsps of smoked paprika 1 tbs of Dutch cocoa 2 pinches of kosher salt 1 bottle of pale ale 1 can of Pastene Tomatoes – ground peeled, kitchen ready 1 handful of fresh cilantro – for garnish 16 oz container of sour cream – for topping Garnish: 1 red onion 1 lime kosher salt This recipe is really simple, but has a long cooking time. So, I’m giving you two ways to do this: one for the weekend and one for the workday. The end result is exactly the same. DIRECTIONS Pickled onions for garnish (prep a day in advance – 3 minutes…and 24 hours) 1. Slice a red onion place in a sealable container. 2. Juice an entire lime onto the sliced onion. 3. Sprinkle with a little kosher salt. 4. Seal and refrigerate. 1 Day before: *Rinse and soak the beans in cold water for at least 12 hours.

Weekend: 1. Over high heat in a large Dutch oven combine onions, celery, bell peppers, jalapeno, ground chipotle pepper, chili pepper, coriander, ground cumin, smoked paprika, Dutch cocoa and kosher salt. 2. When the onions soften and are almost clear in color, add the beans, beer and tomatoes. 3. Cover the Dutch oven, turn heat to low and cook for at least 4 hours—the longer, the better. 4. Preheat your oven to 400°. Peel, clean and cube the butternut squash. Toss cubes with a little canola oil, sprinkle with kosher salt and a pinch of chipotle pepper. Spread out on a parchment-lined cookie sheet making sure there’s space between. Roast for 35-40 minutes, checking occasionally and turning as necessary. 5. Add the roasted butternut squash to the chili before serving. Workday: Before work, complete steps 1 and 2. Then, put those ingredients into a covered crockpot on low temperature. When you come home from work, dinner will be almost done, just complete steps 4 and 5.

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Cornbread Ingredients: 1 cup flour 1 cup yellow cornmeal 3 tablespoons sugar, in the raw 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup 1% milk 1/4 cup canola oil 2 large eggs DIRECTIONS 1. Heat oven to 400째 and brush a 9-inch round pie dish with canola oil. 2. Combine flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Set aside. 3. In a smaller bowl, whisk together milk, oil and egg or egg whites. 4. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry and stir until just combined. Do not over mix. 5. Pour batter evenly into a pie dish and bake 20 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. 6. Cut into triangle wedges and serve with chili.

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Foodies, unite! Written by Sandy Lashin-Curewitz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

The second annual National Food Day—a day of action and

“We are heading down a dangerous path. Thirty percent of

celebration—officially took place on October 24, but the

our kids are obese. One in every six people in our country

movement continues to build in schools, colleges, online, and

is food insecure,” Zimmern wrote on the FoodDay.org blog.

in countless communities. Savor this tasty sampler of New

“Our food system in America has never been so good for so

England Food Day events, and then visit www.FoodDay.org

few, and so bad for so many.”

to find out what is happening now.

Maine

Massachusetts

Southern Maine is a stronghold in the fight for food secu-

FoodDay.org lauded Massachusetts as the national leader in

rity. Partners for a Hunger-free York County joined Phi Theta

the number of Food Day events. In more than 200 public

Kappa at York County Community College to host an event

schools, programs like the Worcester Kindergarten Initiative

with Good Shepherd Food Bank, York County Shelter Pro-

accepted the Department of Elementary and Secondary Edu-

grams, York County Food Rescue, and other partners to

cation’s challenge for schools to “Eat Real” on Food Day by

deliver resources and practical steps to help stop hunger

serving a local food menu.

in York County. Participants learned of a proposal to fight

Among many college events, Babson College presented the

community hunger from Sanford High School students and

Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods host, Andrew Zimmern, who spoke passionately about food justice.

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were treated to homemade pastries from the Bakery at Notre Dame (one of many York County Shelter Programs initiatives).

University of Maine Cooperative Exten-

YMCA, a tasting and film screening at

sion Master Preserver Kate McCarty

the Royal Palace Ballroom Academy,

demonstrated easy food preserving

and a brown bag lunch lecture series

techniques.

at the University of New Hampshire.

At Saco Farmers market, community

Manchester Mayor Ted Gatsis pro-

officials, including local mayors, en-

claimed Food Day a city holiday.

dorsed a session to educate and inform

Connecticut

the public of the importance of having

Since 2002, the Warren School, in War-

access to healthier food. The McArthur

ren, Conn., has held an annual Cook-

Library in Biddeford hosted an open

Off featuring a vegetable grown in its

house in the Children’s Room, to help

schoolyard outreach garden. This year,

children and their families learn more

the Warren School invited others to par-

about how to incorporate fresh, local

ticipate in the annual Cook-Off by put-

fruits and vegetables into their diet. At

ting out a call for Brussels sprouts reci-

McDougal Orchards in Springvale, for

pes and dishes. On November 2, local

the second year, Sanford High School

judges, including school administration,

freshmen served healthy and local food,

selectman, and food services staff, tast-

hosted games for youngsters, and held

ed each prepared dish and rated it on

a 5K cross-country run/walk. Students

taste, aroma, presentation, and texture.

created an exhibit of educational dis-

(Continued on page 54)

plays about healthy eating.

New Hampshire The Manchester Food Co-op—500 member-owners strong, and growing—sponsored

string

New

Hampshire events, including an educational

table,

which

featured

lo-

cal food samples, at the Manchester

Foodies of New England

109

OnceMadeBeer.com Written by Julie Grady Thomas Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

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Foodies of New England

NCEMADE Beer laboration that’s Massachusetts.

is a truly innovate colhappening right here in

A Pintley project, ONCEMADE aims to bring its consumers a pairing of two single-batch beers from local artisan brewers once every season. And they’re not joking—only one, single batch will ever be brewed. This time, they’re bringing us two saison beers from Night Shift Brewing and Backlash Beer: one red and one pale respectively. Both were barrel-aged over Massachusetts raspberries and in local red wine barrels and California brandy barrels. Each package contains a hand-numbered pinewood box, a signed letter from the brewers, two hand-made wooden coasters and an actual piece of one of the barrels. Less than 900 were put on the market last October, so you need to snatch them up fast. You can pre-order online and pick-up at any number of local retailers. Delivery is available within the Route 128 belt for an extra charge. For more information, go to www.oncemadebeer.com. If anything, the video of the entire process is well worth the visit.

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Whiskey

Under Loch & Key

Written by Ryan Maloney Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ryan Maloney has over twenty five years experience in the spirits industry. He is the founder of The Loch & K(e)y Society and the creator of www.lochandkey.com a forum based whisk(e)y website. Ryan was just inducted into the Keeper of the Quaich Society in Scotland, one of whisky’s highest honors. He can also be heard on WCRN AM830 on his radio show “It’s The Liquor Talking”. However, Ryan is most recognized as the owner of Julio’s Liquors in Westborough MA, where amongst other accolades he has been three times awarded “Retailer of the Year”.

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SNOWBOUND! Winter is upon us and so is Whisk(e)y season! I always start daydreaming when I sit cozy by the fire snug in my house with the snow and wind whipping by outside. I have my family close and many bottles of all types of whisk(e)y to drink at my whim. But what if I had to choose to save one and not the other? What if only one could survive and I had to sacrifice all others I held dear? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m talking about bottles of whisk(e)y here, not family members (just wanted to clarify that before the e-mails start arriving on my Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s computer). There I would be with only one whisk(e)y to savor, while I was snowbound! That is the scenario I posed to several friends. Here are their answers, but before you read on let me make it clear: I take no responsibility for the quirkiness or the graphic nature of their responses, they are my friends and that is burden enough! (Continued on page 114)

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(Continued from page 113)

First up is Randall Bird, Co-host of WCRN ‘s “It’s The Liquor Talking”. Snow + Spirits always reminds me of the St. Bernard rescue dogs bounding through the snowdrifts with their restorative cask of Cognac strapped to their collar. I was so enamored with St. Bernards as a youth, I even tried to take the St. Bernard name as my Catholic confirmation name, but was forbidden through a stern rebuke from my priest. Instead of Cognac (Alps appropriate) I am substituting a 16 year Lagavulin in the St. Bernard’s collar cask. Lagavulin—a campfire in your belly with aromatic smoke, a big phenolic (peat reek) note and a lasting, warming burn down my chimney to stake off whatever Old Man Winter may be throwing at me! Plus, if the weather is really bad, there is a big bonus dog that I can hollow out the guts from and crawl inside of (like that weird kangaroo steed in The Empire Strikes Back). Second is Sean Barry, owner of Four Seasons Wine & Liquor in Hadley, MA www.FourSeasonsWine.com. Ryan’s scenario is a New England twist on the classic question, “If you were stranded on a desert island, what...” My requirements for such a whisky would be: One, a whisky higher than 80 proof, but not cask strength. The whisky will need to help keep me warm without dulling the senses too much. One must keep their wits about them when stranded in a snowbound cabin. Ravenous black bears or sultry snow bunnies on snowmobiles could appear at any moment. Two, it must be older than 10 years. The nose must be as complex as the palate. I want to be able to spend as much time nosing the glass as I do savoring the long lingering finish—once again allowing me to stay level-headed should I have any of the previouslymentioned visitors. Lastly it must be sherried. The depth of character and added complexity of a sherried whisky pairs perfectly with being snowbound in a cabin in New England. The combination of oak and maple burning in roaring fireplace and the maple sugared fruit with a hint of smoke in the whisky is a match made in heaven. With all that being said, my choice for such a whisky is Glendronach 15yr Revival. Bottled at 46%ABV. The nose is tremendous. It is one of the few whiskies I truly enjoy smelling more than drinking, but would never consider doing one without the other:

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aromas of chocolate covered cherries, spiced oranges and warm maple syrup. The rich and creamy palate is filled with chocolate, dried fruits, brown sugar. The long extensive finish is laced with vanilla and salted caramel—an exquisite whisky that I could spend a great deal of time exploring and dissecting while waiting for those snow bunnies to arrive. ENJOY! Third is Uncle Charlie! Charles Tower is a Brand Ambassador for an independent bottler of single malt Scotch whisky. Charlie also does whisky tastings and seminars and can be reached at oldmanwhisky@gmail.com. Only one whisky? Out of several thousand expressions currently available? Well, here goes… It would have to meet the “Sensuality Test”—thus have a major appeal to each of the five senses. SIGHT: great, rich color and long, smooth legs as it eases down the side of the glass. SMELL: memories of the aroma of rich chocolate and cherry desserts from mother’s kitchen decades ago. TOUCH: lingering soft, smooth, warm enveloping of the tongue and palate. SOUND: “Aaaaaaaaah, soooooo nice!” TASTE: Sweet, but not overly so; the richness of stone fruits and raisins; hints of cinnamon and clove; so much more. More than one whisky might measure up to this test, but the one which does it for me is Aberlour A’bunadh. Next is my good friend Brad Jarvis, The Whisky Professor! Brad is a renowned whisky expert and can be found at www. thewhiskyprofessor.com. If I were snowbound I would want to be comforted by a bottle of Douglas Laing of Drumlanrig Single Barrel 15 year old independently bottled Clynelish. Not because it is from a hidden gem of a distillery, although this is a wonderful fact on its own, but rather because it is a cracking good dram. It is from Highlands, where they know a thing or two about being snowed in. It has a deep vanilla creamy mouth feel with hints of summer fruit and spicy Carmel. This finish is warming hints of toffee and café au lait keep me warm while sitting in my favorite leather recliner by a roaring fire. It is also slightly over proof and this would warm me during the multiple trips I would have to make to keep the side walk clear of snow.

Chances are power would be down so I would have plenty of time to contemplate its intricacies by the warm glow of the hearth; from its wonderfully balanced woody spice and fruit notes, to its delicate sweet toffee richness and creamy mouth feel. Last, but not least is Jeff Karlovitch. Jeff is the founder of the Whisky Guild and runs a whisky cruise out of Boston. For more information visit www.whiskyguild.com. I’m standing outside the front door shivering as I’m trying to shake some of the snow off my hat and boots before entering. The chill that was in the air has worked its way deep into my bones and I really could use some warming up, not just on my skin but deep inside my core. Once inside, after removing my warmest hat, coat, gloves, and boots, I eagerly pour myself a nice hot cup of…tea? What am I thinking? A fine Single Malt will do better and NOT EVERY WINTER MALT HAS TO COME FROM ISLAY! Sure, smoky and peaty whiskies are in high demand and many distilleries are making smoky versions of their regular malt—but not every winter malt worth its salt is from Islay.

The malt I would reach for if I were snowbound would be Deanston 12, from the Highlands just north of Glasgow Scotland. I’m a big fan of all this distillery’s bottlings (Virgin Oak, 12yr, 30yr and some distillery exclusives), but in this case the twelve year old would really be a perfect fit. Even though the strength is 46.3%, it feels like much more on the palate. There is some sweetness, with a honeysuckle finish— so much so that it reminds me of Christmas Cake! Plus I like that they are the only distillery to use 100% Scottish Barley that is available in the United States. I take one sip and I feel it go down my throat and into my stomach, warming me all the way. Then I take another sip and it’s downright hot in the cabin. By the tenth or so sip, I really don’t care how much snow is outside. Dig me out in the Spring! Well there you have it, five superb choices for whiskies to bunker with in this snowbound dilemma! However, in classic James T. Kirk style in the “The Kobayashi Maru Scenario” (yes, I’m geeking out) I’m re-writing the programming! I’m kicking all of them out of the cabin and now I have five whiskies to drink and keep me company until the thaw! CHEERS!

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Wines of Distinction

The Moai Looked on as the Carménère Was Crafted, and they were pleased…

Written by Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Known in restaurant circles as The Wine Guy, Domenic is focused on food and wine education. Domenic’s enthusiasm and passion for food and wine, propelled him into a local TV wine education series, The Wine Guy, in which he took viewers on a tour of California and Italy’s wine regions and historic destinations. In addition to being the editor and publisher of Foodies of New England magazine, Dom is the host of Foodies of New England, a dynamic and educational TV show. The show features New England’s best, award-winning chefs, and their signature recipes.

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aster Island is located about 2,300 miles off the coast of Chile. The ancient Moai statues that dot the coastline are believed by many to have been created between 1400 and 1600 AD in the images of various paramount chiefs. To the proud winemakers of the Curicó Valley in Chile, home of Don Mateo wines, it is clear that the Moai are looking onto their efforts from afar, with great approval. In the Curicó Valley of Chile, the soil is conducive to good winemaking. Overall, Chile is fortunate to have climate conditions that are ideal for good grape growing harvests: Hot summers, strong sun, coastal-cooling breezes and moderate rainfall all contribute to the quality and level of intensity for which these wines are known. Don Mateo winery creates varietals typical of Chile, but which are also known in other parts of the world: Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. Although the varietals are similar, the styles of their wines are quite unique, and they vary from the more modern, plush, less-structured variations originating from modern wine-making regions of the world. Indeed, Don Mateo wines are meant to be paired with food, as they offer subtle, but bracing acidity and a pleasant essence of black fruits that refrain from overwhelming the cuisine they accompany. The distinctive attributes of Don Mateo wines are credited, in part, to the winemaker’s superlative methods and techniques, but are also largely the result of the uniqueness of Chilean soil.

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A magnificent example of this is the Don Mateo Carménère. And, speaking of terroir and geography, it is important to note that some grapes travel well, and others don’t. Basically, the idea behind that statement is that most grape varietals are like nomads; skipping from place-to-place, region-to-region, country-to-country, each having its origin in another land. When grape vines have origins in one country and are then re-planted in another, the ultimate taste will invariably differ from that of the homeland because of the changes in terroir, or soil. The real question is: Will the change in taste be entirely the result of different terroir, or will it be associated with inferior winemaking or climatic conditions not conducive to that particular varietal? Such is the question we ask of Don Mateo’s Carménère; a grape of French origin, specifically the Bordeaux. While the Don Mateo Carménère is of Chilean roots, its heritage is, of course, French. So, “Which is better?” you may ask, “the Carménère born in Chile, or that originating from the great Bordeaux?” Well, just to make things even more challenging (who said wine was easy to understand?), we must introduce yet another variable to the equation: The subjectivity of taste, or the individuality of each person’s palate. True, whether one person likes a wine and another person doesn’t can be irrelevant in the face of cold, hard viticulture. The existence of good soil, optimal climatic conditions, and best practices in harvesting and winemaking are necessary in order to produce a good wine. When all of those elements are present in the production of the same grape varietal in two difference countries (Carménère, for example), we chalk up any differences in taste to terroir, not inferior winemaking. So, how does Don Mateo’s Chilean Carménère size up to the French original? Well, according to Bill St. John from the Chicago Tribune, Chilean Carménère may have certain elements of berry fruit flavors, earth or minerals, spicy wood, even the cleansing astringency of tannin, but it also possesses a taste of “mystery,” as reflected in its long migration to Chile. Like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, Carménère was a foundational building block of red Bordeaux wines. But, after being struck down in the late 1800s by the plant louse phylloxera, winemakers replanting Europe’s vineyards favored other, easier-to-grow grapes over Carménère, such as Merlot. But, St. John indicates, Carménère had found its way to Chile in the baggage of emigrating French winemakers, themselves fleeing phylloxera in search of greener vineyards. “In Chile, Carménère vines were planted sporadically among other, less

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noble vines than those back in Bordeaux,” St. John mentions. As a result, Carménère became known as a mere every day table wine.

“They look to the land, the sea and the sky - this is critical to the making of our wine” Soon thereafter, Carménère came to be known as “Merlot,” since it had been inter-planted among Merlot vines. To add insult to injury, Carménère’s reputation was hindered as Chile’s winemaking began to expand into international markets in the early 1990s, when labels that said “Merlot” were easier to sell than those bearing the varietal “Carménère.” Carménère was finally vindicated in the late 1990s, when visiting French winemakers determined that what was thought to be “Merlot” throughout much of Chile, in truth, was really Carménère. Then, according to St. John, Casa Lapostolle (a French-owned winery located in the Colchagua Valley of Chile) released a wine made of 100% old-vine Carménère, and it was strongly admired by the wine community. This gave Carménère the much-needed credibility it had been thirsting for.

St. John concludes that the mystery behind the migration of Carménère is solved, as Chile has embraced the grape as its own. For proof, we point to the Don Mateo Carménère as a great example of a 100%, single-vineyard Carménère. Winemakers at Don Mateo pursue the Carménère’s development with vigor and passion until the very label is placed on the bottle. Although the flavor of Don Mateo’s Carménère might be different than that of the Carménère from Bordeaux, it is important to note that this wine shares a rustic quality with its French ancestor. The roots of Don Mateo and Bordeaux Carménère reach deep into the soil to search for water. In this journey deep into the clay and rock, Carménère roots extract minerals and a strong earthiness, which translate through the vines to the tight, dense berries. It is hypothesized that, if Carménère grows on a soil other than this, the tannins and other important elements in the grape will be unripe. Only if the soil stresses the vine will the tannins ripen slowly and be sweet and mature. And, when Carménère finds its place, and a winemaker handles it gently in the winery, it is terrifically tasty.

the wine is so deep in color that our expert food-photographers were unable to pass light completely through the wine during the photo shoot. On the palate, though, a deep, sultry, dark wine is very welcome, and the Don Mateo’s subtle notes of oak complete the fruity and herbaceous aromas typical of Carménère. This wine is gentle in the mouth, medium-bodied and has a balanced finish. The folks at Don Mateo believe strongly that the Moai also inspire them to think of their wines as standing the test of time and are consistent from bottle to bottle. One winemaker laments, “They look to the land, the sea and the sky – this is critical to the making of our wine. They remind us of our founders and their commitment to excellence, and they inspire us to produce our wines with passion and craftsmanship.” - Publisher. “Don Mateo Carménère is

Foodies-approved at 89 Points”

The Don Mateo is a great example of this; a young wine, it is ruby-red with blue hues and an intensely-dark body. In fact,

Angel Share Tasting Room ~ ~

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Something to Drink

Have your Cake and Drink it, Too Tiramisu Martini

Written by Richard Beams Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Rich Beams has been a bartender for 20 years at places such as Tweeds Pub, Jillians, Holiday InnWorcester, Nuovo, and is currently The Grill on the Hill at Green Hill Golf Course. He is also an instructor at DrinkMaster Bartending School in Worcester, Framingham, and Boston. With his passion and knowledge for wine, Rich has written many articles sharing his thoughts and suggestions. He is currently a member of The Taste of the Nation comittee.

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Winter in New England can be challenging. At the very least, it forces guys like me to seek refuge in the warmth of an expertly-made cocktail or cordial—not a bad situation to be forced into, really. After being stricken with a 2-week long flu, and having finally regained my sense of taste, I felt the need to shake an equally taxing bout of cabin fever. I decided to visit my friend Tildi, a bartender at Nuovo Restaurant on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester. Nuovo is a foodie’s jewel, featuring a rustic Mediterranean-themed menu that focuses on high-quality ingredients that are freshly prepared with a passion you can taste in every dish. Chef/owner Aleks Gjonca’s philosophy is that people don’t come to his restaurant because they can’t cook, they come for an experience—and Nuovo definitely delivers. From front to back, up to down, Nuovo’s design is beautiful. Its subtle elegance and lighting are so pleasing to behold that I was already forgetting about the outside world. While sitting at the bar, I enjoyed some of Aleks’ amazing fried calamari, then one of Tildi’s special bourbon concoctions. Alex appeared from out of the kitchen to apprise me of a new libation they had developed, excitedly urging me to give it a try. The Tiramisu Martini turned out to be an experience in decadence, from appearance to taste. I am not usually a dessert drink kind-of-guy, but this one truly got to me. A blend of Vanilla Vodka, Kahlua, Baily’s Irish Cream, Amaretto, and the kicker that balanced it all out—a shot of freshly-brewed espresso—were all assembled in a mixing can over ice, and shaken until completely chilled. The serving vessel was prepared by drizzling chocolate syrup in a most interesting, circular pattern around its interior. The drink is then strained into the glass, topped with real whipped cream, dusted with powdered cinnamon, and garnished with a plump, ripe cherry.

Tiramisu happens to be my favorite dessert. It’s a traditional Italian delight and its title means to “toss me up in the air,” undoubtedly the feeling one gets after the first bite. This delicious Italian creation is traditionally crafted with lady fingers dipped in espresso and layered with a whipped mixture of egg yolks and mascarpone cheese, then flavored with Amaretto liqueur and cocoa. The only thing better than experiencing Tiramisu after dinner would be drinking it in the form of a luscious libation, and this cocktail managed to capture all the right flavors. It was creamy and nutty, with sweet vanilla flavor, and the shot of espresso gave it a kick that tied the whole drink together by adding just a smidge of coffee bean flavor, thereby keeping it from becoming too sweet or rich. Also, don’t be deceived by its decadent appearance or flavorful palate; this is one potent potable, meant to be sipped and savored while forgetting about the cold, cruel winter. So if you’re looking for great food, a soothing cocktail, and an elegant atmosphere, find your way to Nuovo. By the way, if you’re a bourbon drinker like me, ask Tildi to whip-up his special Bourbon cocktail, a killer blend of bourbon, B&B Liqueur, and a splash of sour mix, shaken and strained into a chilled Manhattan glass. It will immediately propel you from a feeling of winter chill to summer thrill!

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Foodies of New England believes very strongly in the importance of giving back to the various foodies communities in our New England region. This belief is part of the mission of one of our Foodies Live events, the Worcester’s Best Chef competition, which showcases Central Massachusetts’ very best chefs while donating funds to Worcester Technical High School’s culinary arts college scholarship program. We’ve extended this important practice to the Foodies of New England TV and Foodies of New England Magazine advertising programs, whereby Foodies of New England will donate 5% of an advertiser’s investment to the charity of their choice, and publicize their generosity through our Foodies of New England social media networks.

At Foodies of New England, we not only care about food, we care about what our advertisers care about!

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