Foodies of New England Summer 2016 V16

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Summer Road Trippin’ Exciting Excursions to Foodie Destinations!

Wild Cheff

Coastal Clam Flatbread

Mushroom Foraging

Mastering an Ancient Skill

Wright’s Dairy Farm

Summer 2016 DISPLAY UNTIL OCTOBER 17, 2016

Four Generations of Dairy Farming

Catch the Mango Madness

SKYY Infusions Tropical Mango offers sweet, ripe, tropical fruit aromas and distinctive mango taste for a long smooth finish and an ideal summertime cocktail.

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Blackberry Mango Cocotini Muddle fresh (4) blackberries and 1 lime wedge 1.5 oz. SKYY Infusions Tropical Mango .5 oz. SKYY Infusions Coconut Preparation: Add ice, shake and strain into martini glass, top with blackberry soda or just plain soda water...garnish with a lime wheel and fresh blackberries.

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SKYY InfusionsŽ Tropical Mango. Vodka infused with Tropical Mango and Other Natural Flavors. 35% alc./vol. (70 proof). Š2016 Campari America, San Francisco, CA. Please enjoy responsibly.

LAKESIDE PHOTO STUDIO

The Publick House has been creating picturesque New England weddings for over 240 years as a full-service destination wedding venue!

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Summer 2016 Contributors Publisher: Mercury Media & Entertainment, LLC Managing Editor: Domenic Mercurio Contributing Editors: Julie Grady Thomas Jodie Lynn Boduch Director of Social Media: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Writers and Contributors: Ellen Allard, Adam Gerhart, Lina Bifano Elaine Pusateri Cowan, Jodie Lynn Boduch, Ryan Maloney, David Kmetz, Peggy Bridges, Brad Schwarzenbach, Jeff Cutler, Sarah Connell, Denny Corriveau, Kelly Lynn Kassa, Julie Grady Thomas, Renee Bolivar, Christine Whipple, Matt Jones, Briana Palma, Tom Verde Professional Photography: Scott Erb & Donna Dufault Erb Photography Art Director: Rick Bridges Richard Bridges Design Website: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Account Manager: Domenic Mercurio Foodies of New England Magazine Box 380 Sturbridge MA 01566 domenic@mercurymediallc.com scott@erbphoto.com jodie@muchadomarketing.com rick@richardbridgesdesign.com All content Š2016, Mercury Media Entertainment All Rights Reserved Printed in USA Foodies of New England assumes no financial responsibility for errors in advertisements. No portion of Foodies of New England, advertising or editorial, may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written permission of the publisher.

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Charcuterie and Cheese Board from White Horse Tavern

Summer 2016

5

Contents Features

14

Foodie Road Trippin’

Exciting Excursions to Summertime Foodie Destinations!

36

14

Tyler Place Family Resort Offering a Taste of Vermont

40

Cava Tapas & Wine Bar An Environment of Teaching and Learning

48

Mushroom Foraging Mastering an Ancient Skill

56

The Bancroft

An Upscale Steakhouse with a Touch of “Swank”

56

68

Wrights Farm

Four Generations of Dairy Farming

80

The Public House Stepping Back in Time

86

Best in New England Clam Shacks Fresh, Classic New England Seafood

114

Bite Into Maine Food Truck

68

Redefining the Lobster Roll

Cover: Classic New England “Lobstah” Roll from Mac’s Fish House in Provincetown, MA

6

Foodies of New England

86

Departments

44

History of...

52

74

Thyme

52

Gluten Free

Vegan Mac-N-Chees

64

Gardens by Renee Summertime Gardening

74

Wild Cheff

Coastal Clam Flatbread

98

Healthy at Home Wild About Saffron

106

Sweet Sensations

Wild Strawberries and a Fresh Fruit Tart

110

Brew Review

The Mustache Collaborative

118

Whiskey-Under Loch & Key

98

Summertime and the Drinkin’ is Easy!

122

Wines of Distinction Chardonnay Showdown

126

Liberating Libations Traveling Cocktails

118 Summer 2016

7

Deliciously Italian with an International Appeal Aperol is the perfect aperitivo. Its low alcohol content makes it perfect anytime. Bright orange in color, its unique bittersweet taste is derived from an infusions of selected herbs and roots in perfect proportions.

Try some today and taste the difference.

Aperol Spritz Perfect Serve Aperol’s signature cocktail, the Aperol Spritz, is easy to prepare.

Build in a rocks or balloon glass over ice:

3 Prosecco + 2 Aperol + 1 Soda • 3 parts Prosecco or dry sparkling wine like Cava or California sparklers • 2 parts Aperol • 1 part soda/sparkling water • Garnish with an orange slice

Aperol Grapefruit Spritzer Muddle 2 Grapefruit slices, 1 dash of orange bitters 1.5 oz. Aperol Add ice and shake, strain over ice in a rocks glass.

Splash of soda water, top with prosecco, garnish with a grapefruit twist or slice.

Aperol.com Aperol Liqueur. 11% alc./vol. (22 Proof). Imported by Campari America, San Francisco, CA. ©2016. Please enjoy responsibly. ®

Letter

from the

Editor

Sensations of a New England Summer From foraging to tapas, clam shacks to gelato joints, and dairy farms to historic waterfront inns, this issue is packed with the most interesting and celebrated foodie experiences you’d want to have this summer.

What better place to begin than in The Vacation State at Bob’s Clam Hut, where Jeff Cutler explores the true meaning of the word “fresh.” Traveling south a bit with Briana Palma to the Granite State, we venture to the nation’s oldest seaport – Portsmouth - and The Black Trumpet, an intimate bistro serving globally-inspired dishes in rustic, romantic digs. Close by, check out Cava, an eclectic and chic wine bar offering Mediterraneaninspired tapas, a tasting menu, and a chef’s table.

Fill up the tank and pack your appetite… we’re Road Trippin’, foodies!

Could you think of a better

Over to the Green Mountain State… if you’re in the mood for something casual, check out the Top of the Hill Grill, a quick-serve window dishing out BBQ to enjoy in a rustic enclosed porch or at outdoor picnic tables. Then, further up, just 6.9 miles from the Canadian border, there’s Tyler Place Family Resort, an all-inclusive lakeside resort that offers families homey suites, guesthouses, and cottages with kitchenettes, porches, and fireplaces, with activities ranging from waterskiing, kayaking, and canoeing to tennis, volleyball, climbing, and miniature golf. And the food, needless to say, gets our approval.

Further down to the Bay State, Brad Schwarzenbach visits New City Microcreamery

way to spend a New

in Hudson - a metropolis of fine confections, smooth creams, and delectable treats. Up

England summer than

dramatic space with farm-fresh offerings and a huge bar pouring craft cocktails. After,

embarking on a series of

ing fascination. Just west of Worcester is The Publick House in Sturbridge, where Jodie

exciting excursions to the palate-pleasing destinations we’ve laid out for your enjoyment? We didn’t think so.

in Burlington (MA), Peggy Bridges stops into The Bancroft, a swanky steakhouse in a venture into Central Mass with Julie Grady and check out Matt DeNittis and his foragBoduch uncovers a rustic, quaint, and historic New England restaurant and inn, in one of Massachusetts’ most enjoyable towns.

Down on the Cape in beautiful Provincetown, Julie Grady gets insight into a true Cape icon - Mac’s Fish House, where foodies come from far and wide for Cape favorites.

Just south in the Ocean State, Christine Whipple takes us through Wright’s Dairy Farm & Bakery, which offers fresh milk, specialty cakes, and a wide range of pastries. Then, Chef Tom Verde investigates George’s of Galilee, a sprawling, circa-1948 institution where the classic Rhode Island seafood comes with Block Island Sound views. Over to Newport to the White Horse Tavern, a fresh, contemporary culinary experience in America’s oldest restaurant, serving up fish, clams, and lobsters from Narragansett Bay along with just-picked produce from local farms. Come see how this historic gem embraces Rhode Island’s vibrant food scene to bring you the very best artisan cheeses, honeys, prime cuts of beef, and fish right off the boat – all in a Colonial tavern that’s been serving America for over 350 years. continued on page 12

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Foodies of New England

Copper beet salad, harissa red and golden beets, goat cheese mouse, and arugula from The Copper Beech Inn

Summer 2016

11

Lastly, David Kmetz takes us over to the Copper Beech Inn, a fine Ivoryton, Connecticut luxury bed and breakfast Located in an area designated one of the 40 “Last Great Places” by The Nature Conservancy, Copper Beech Inn offers snug, distinctive dining rooms and summer outdoor dining, complemented by the finest wines from the over 2,500-bottle award-winning wine cellar (Wine Spectator’s “ Award of Excellence” for 2010). While enjoying this romantic getaway, you’ll appreciate easy access to the coastal town of Mystic.

Hold it! We’re not done, yet… Don’t forget to check out our regular departments, including Home Grown with Renee Bolivar, Wild Cheff with Denny Corriveau, The History of Thyme by Jodie Boduch, Gluten Free Diva with Ellen Allard, Brew Review with Matt Jones, Healthy at Home by Elaine Pusateri-Cowan, Whiskey… Under Loch & Key by Ryan Maloney, Liberating Libations by Adam Gerhart, and Wines of Distinction by yours truly.

Thank you, foodies, for reading and growing with us… enjoy a ‘tasteful’ summer!

Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Editor/Publisher

12

Foodies of New England

Enjoy our Historic Drover’s Roast Join us as we prepare a 1700’s American trailside feast recalling the days of John Pynchon, the colonies’ first cattle drover.

• Huge Outdoor Feast • Fire Pit Roasted Prime Rib • Chowder and Fritters right from the Cauldron • Horsedrawn Wagon Rides • Crafts People • Live Entertainment & Militia June 19 – Father’s Day September 11

Tickets must be purchased in advance!

Fresh!

Yummy Fun!

From our Farm to your Plate Whether you’re a foodie, or someone who appreciates delicious food straight from the garden, this is the dining event for you!

Relax and unwind with...

• Hors d’oeuvres • Cool Refreshing Drinks • Informal Garden Tour • Chef Demonstration • Enjoy our Magnificent Backyard View!

August 25 - Hamlet Grove Pastured Chicken September 15 - Salem Cross Farm Raised Beef Tickets are limited and are available online at

www.salemcrossinn.com

Check our website closer to dinner dates for menu details Tickets are non-refundable & non-transferable

260 West Main Street • West Brookfield, MA 01585 508.867.2345 • www.salemcrossinn.com

Hickory smoked ribs, homemade baked beans, cole slaw and corn bread

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Foodies of New England

Top of the Line Bar-B-Que in Brattleboro, Vermont Written by Sarah Connell Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

V

ermont Barbeque? Don’t turn your nose up at it.

Top of the Hill Grill in Brattleboro, Vermont is most definitely a BBQ joint, just with its own spin.

Happy Food:

A customer once told Pit Master Jon Julian he makes happy food.

Well, according to Julian, they do put a lot of love into it.

Noted for its low and slow cuisine, Top of the Hill specializes in pork, chicken and beef all smoked at low temperatures, a process that slowly breaks down connective tissues to make what were once tough cuts of meat irresistibly tender.

Summer 2016

15

Tempeh with grilled vegetables Rice and Beans

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Foodies of New England

Half Grilled Chicken

Mac-N-Cheese

“I want every bite, every time, to be perfect,” Julian said in an

manager, and Mike Gilbert, his second in command.

interview featured on Top of the Hill’s website. He serves up every-

He refers to them as “work horses,” praising their knife skills and

thing from sandwiches to wraps and fajitas, embracing all things

strong work ethic. Julian also appreciates the enthusiastic energy

barbeque in his wake.

of his young staff, many of who return from college to work there

Drawing a lot of influence from his travels, the resulting Cajun, Mexican, and Caribbean flavors are what make his dishes stand out. “My experience has shown me that nobody has a lock on ‘the best’ of anything,” he declared. “I cook food utilizing quality ingredients coupled with time honored techniques.”

Julian’s most notable dish is Burnt Ends, a traditional delicacy in barbeque terms. He uses beef brisket cut from the deckle-end, or the fatty cut (don’t worry, fat is good in barbeque; it’s necessary).

The brisket is rubbed with a house-made dry rub that includes cocoa, coffee and cinnamon, then smoked for hours with shag bark hickory, resulting in a tantalizing explosion of taste and texture.

You can expect to find vegetarian offerings on the menu as well.

Julian wants all his guests to partake in the barbeque experience, but his unique vision of barbeque evades fake hamburgers and instead showcases the versatility of root vegetables. Plus, his global influence continues in the tempting tempeh wraps.

year in and year out.

Good Food in a Vermont-Inspired Environment Top of the Hill Grill is worthy of a road trip—and has been for over 20 years—because it strives to create a unique dining experience on two fronts.

First, this establishment offers from-scratch fare that’s affordable. Second, the location and environment reflect all that the pleasant outdoors of Vermont have to offer, including an excellent view.

“We’d like to think Top of the Hill Grill is a throwback to an earlier, less chaotic time. This is no-frills, paper plate dining at its best!” exclaimed Julian.

Conveniently situated on a major highway, Top of the Hill Grill is roadside barbeque with a twist, and dining is oriented away from the road to avoid the sounds and sights of traffic.

This down-home establishment takes great pride in its terraced

In the Pit

gardens, countryside views and shady trees. Patrons make use of

Julian cooks for his customers, constantly assessing what they’ll

an indoor deckhouse on rainy days and the patio when the sun

enjoy and paying mind to every little detail. Although the recipes

is shining. A hammock also beckons to customers after many a

are all his, he insists he cannot take credit for inventing the dishes

satisfying meal.

themselves.

Just think, barbeque with a view and it’s all in Vermont.

Sometimes they come from the staff, like Kelsey’s Katfish Wrap.

Sometimes they come from customers, like Spencer who ate at Top of the Hill 150 times in one season. He came up with his own wrap and now it’s on the menu.

According to Julian, it’s truly a team effort. He credits “the broth-

Top of the Hill Grill 632 Putney Road Brattleboro, VT 05301 802.258.9178 www.topofthehillgrill.com

ers Gilbert” for much of his success—Tony Gilbert, his kitchen

Summer 2016

17

Black Trumpet Bistro: Portsmouth’s Farm-to-Table Pioneer Written by Briana Palma Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

E

van Mallet is in exactly the same place that he was 18 years ago: 29 Ceres Street in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.

Today, everyone knows him as a man who has helped put the city’s restaurant scene on the map. He’s an award-winning chef and the owner of Black Trumpet Bistro and Wine Bar, which today occupies that same space on Ceres Street. But in 1998, he was just another patron eating dinner there with his wife.

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Foodies of New England

Duck pastrami, house made mustard and pickled spring vegetable

Summer 2016

19

The two had traveled up from their home in Boston and sat down at a table inside the restaurant, then known as Lindbergh’s Crossing. As they took in views of the Piscataqua River, the pair became “romanced and seduced” by the city of Portsmouth. The food ended up having a similar effect. “[It was] super simple, classic French—nothing crazy but just executed to perfection and still the kind of food that I consider the most comforting and reassuring,” Evan, 47, recalls.

That dining experience became the impetus for him to change his career from budding food writer to full-time chef and propelled him and wife Denise to move to Portsmouth. A few months later, Evan had landed a job as a cook at Lindbergh’s Crossing. After other local positions and a two-year stint in Mexico, he returned to 29 Ceres Street as head chef in 2003. Four years later, he and Denise bought the restaurant and opened Black Trumpet.

Today, the location continues to be an upscale dining destination, but unlike its predecessor, the Black Trumpet is famed for its farm-to-table approach.

“If we can make people happy with our food while doing the right thing, then we truly have accomplished something great.”

“I had already been working on [sourcing local ingredients] as a chef at Lindberg, but I really wanted to make a statement about it when we opened Black Trumpet—inasmuch as I’d ever tried to

Veal saltimbocca burger with Plymouth sage derby cheese, pancetta, Mango mostarda with cone potatoes, balsamic onion ketchup poached fingerling potatoes

make a statement about anything,” Evan says. “That was a novel concept back then, believe it or not, and so that really became our trademark.”

Former Black Trumpet bartender R.J. Joyce agrees. “Evan has always been that farm-to-table pioneer for our area. It’s hard to appreciate because it’s got such a national foothold now, but it’s organic there. He’s always been the guy.”

In addition to giving diners a taste of the Seacoast through locallysourced fish, meats, and produce, the Black Trumpet menu showcases the many cultures and cuisines that influence Evan’s cooking.

Joyce, who is co-owner of Louie’s restaurant in Portsmouth, comments, “[Evan] has this kind of encyclopedic knowledge of food [and of] styles that aren’t commonly juxtaposed. … There’s a little bit of a true genius thing there.”

According to Evan, his food is “Mexiterranean,” an amalgamation of the flavors and techniques of Mexico and the Mediterranean, with hints of North Africa and Turkey as well.

“My brain, when it tries to draw on those two influences of Latin America and the Mediterranean, finds bridges like this one,” he says, explaining that in late March he united local black sea

20

Foodies of New England

Citrus glazed artic char with Louisiana shrimp, ryeberries and nettle pea pistou

bass, poblano peppers, and spinach in a single dish.

He started with a rouille, a French-style bread-pepper paste, made with the poblanos and spinach.

“I poached [the fish] and chilled them and then we sliced them,” he elaborates. “They’re like this incredible roulade—which is a French term—using a French ingredient, rouille, that’s made with Mexican flavors and the chorizo from Spain.”

Such innovative dishes have earned national attention for Evan and the Black Trumpet, including three James Beard nominations. And although he appreciates the accolades, his focus remains squarely on providing the people of Portsmouth with a meaningful dining experience and supporting local farmers and food producers along the way.

“If we really want to gloat or sit back and rest on our laurels and raise a glass to our restaurant and its survival, it would be on the grounds that we haven’t had

Executive Chef and owner Evan Mallet

a compromising ethos and that, to me, matters more than anything else,” he insists.

“I’ve always said since we opened the restaurant that if we can make people happy with our food while doing the right thing, then we truly have accomplished something great.”

Black Trumpet Bistro 29 Ceres Street Portsmouth, NH 03801 603.431.0887 www.blacktrumpetbistro.com

Pan fried spring risotto cake with braised broccoli rabe pickled shiitakes and pea shoots

Fried almonds, Castelvetrano olives and garlic

Summer 2016

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Duck scotch egg; wrapped in duck sausage, breaded and deep fried, house made sriracha and honey bourbon sauce

22

Foodies of New England

The Reinvention of an

American Classic Newport’s White Horse Tavern Written by Tom Verde Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

T

he American business lunch, so the story goes, was not a product of Wall Street or Madison Avenue, but of a street corner in Newport, Rhode Island.

As early as 1708, local councilors regularly met at the intersection of Marlborough and Farewell streets, beneath the gambrel roof of William Mayes’ White Horse Tavern to conduct business and discuss politics while charging their meals to the City Treasury.

Summer 2016

23

“The historic tavern has also served as a watering hole for pirates, patriots, Redcoats and Hessian mercenaries.”

Henceforth, running into politicians at the White Horse was no big deal.

“We still have the beef Wellington, which has been on the menu for 30-plus years,” said Silvia, aware that eliminating several menu

George Washington drank here (probably), as did Ben Franklin

items would practically require an Act of Congress, “but with

(definitely), in what is by many accounts America’s oldest operat-

something like escargot, which used to be served in traditional

ing tavern (established in 1673). The structure itself is even older,

dishes with puff pastry, we’ll add Rhode Island mushrooms and

built as a private home in 1652.

serve it over grilled bread.”

The historic tavern has also served as a watering hole for pi-

He’s also proud of his charcuterie, a selection of cured meats—

rates, patriots, Redcoats and Hessian mercenaries, not to men-

some made in-house—served with modern terrines, pâtés,

tion generations of blue-blooded Newport society swells.

cheeses and pickled-in-house veggies.

Despite centuries of tradition, Executive Chef Rich Silvia recognized that some changes had to be made when he took over the kitchen in 2009, starting with the venerable tavern’s well-worn, fieldstone threshold.

“The first thing I said was, ‘No more jackets,’” recalled Silvia, referring to the closetful of well-worn blazers reserved for those hapless male diners who (shudder!) showed up in shirtsleeves.

Still, Silvia isn’t blindly determined to transform America’s oldest tavern into New England’s hippest bistro.

A native of Newport, he respects the White Horse’s role in Rhode Island history—the Legislature convened here for nearly a century before the nearby Colony House was built in 1741—as well as its history of using locally produced food.

“We are probably the original farm-to-table restaurant because

“Then I got the waiters out of the tuxedos, which were intimi-

they used to get their lamb and beef and produce right there, from

dating, and took fresh approaches to the door. Years ago, if you

the fields behind us,” he chuckled, tossing his head in the direc-

didn’t have a reservation it was, ‘Sorry, we can’t seat you.’ Now

tion of the emerald meadow that still sits across the street in front

it’s ‘Welcome. What can we do for you?’”

of the Quaker Meeting House, the state’s oldest house of worship,

Next Silvia set his sights on the menu, which consisted of safe,

dating back to 1699.

unadventurous entrees that may have gratified the old guard but

Equally close to the sea and what was once a bustling commer-

caused modern, millennial diners to nod off halfway through the soup.

cial seaport (now choked with luxury yachts and America’s Cup-

24

Foodies of New England

class sailboats), the White Horse also tapped into a ready supply of

Fashioned, made up of a bourbon, vanilla and cinnamon reduction,

exotic spices that were offloaded from merchant ships by sailors,

with dark walnut bitters, muddled griotte cherries, and orange peel.

whose beverage of choice is still a prominent feature on the cocktail menu.

That’s essentially what today’s White Horse Tavern is all about; it’s the modern reinvention of a 350 year-old, oak-beamed clas-

“We are huge advocates of Thomas Tew Rum, which is distilled

sic, where a new generation of diners can enjoy a casual lunch or

right here in Newport,” said food and beverage manager Alex Bran-

dinner without worrying about formalities or bumping into pirates.

dariz.

But, as for bumping into politicians, the management can’t offer any

The rum, which is named after a notorious 17th century Newport

guarantees.

pirate, is favored amongst White Horse “bar chefs” for the tavern’s

Open Monday through Thursday from 11:30am to 9:00pm,

signature cocktail, the Dark and Stormy, a tongue-tingling blend of

Friday through Saturday from 11:30am through 10:00pm, and

dark rum and ginger beer.

Sunday from 11:00am through 9:00pm.

Made even closer to home, said Brandariz, is the White Horse’s in-house sweet vermouth, made with fortified wine, molasses, anisette, cinnamon, vanilla, bourbon, and macerated French griotte sour cherries. After the cherries have had a while to work their magic, they’re used in another White Horse signature cocktail, The Modern

White Horse Tavern 26 Marlborough Street Newport, RI 02840 401.849.3600 www.whitehorsenewport.com

Executive Chef Ron Silvia

Charcuterie and Cheese Board

Individual Beef Wellington; Foie Gras Pate, Puff Pastry, Potato Puree, Glazed Petit Carrots, Perigueux Sauce

Summer 2016

25

Almond amaretto with queens pastry, cinnamon funk, caramel sauce

26

Foodies of New England

New City

MICROCREAMERY A Small Town Ice Cream Shop with Big Ideas Written by Bradley Schwarzenbach Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

W

hen I meet New City Microcreamery co-owner Jason Kleinerman in front of his ice cream shop in downtown Hudson, Massachusetts, the town center is bustling. It’s 5:30 and a nearby rotary is never empty. Across the street is the acclaimed Rail Trail Flatbread with groups already forming a line outside the door.

A group of runners boisterously zig-zags down the sidewalk past us. It is anything but dead.

Summer 2016

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New City chocolate brownie with chocolate ice cream cream preparation is going to be complex, a trade secret, a mystery locked in a vault next to the original recipe for Coca-Cola. Not for the prying eyes of a food journalist on assignment.

But then they sit me down on a stool, right in the middle of their shop, where a makeshift ice cream theater has been set up so patrons can enjoy their dessert while they see the process come to life. For an ice cream as rich, creamy, and flavorful as New City provides, it’s remarkable how simple the creation process is. After creating their flavor base, New City’s ice cream makers simple mix in -- slowly -- a few batches of liquid nitrogen, poured in by hand no less. It’s basic but magical. Clouds escape the bowl as the large mixer beats the cream and flavor into the beyond-ice-cold liquid. The clouds obscure your view then dissipate to reveal the fruits of their labor. After mixing, the ice cream is further frozen until it is just the right However, Kleinerman is very quick to

“We looked elsewhere but, ultimately, we

point out that, only five years ago, that was

were blessed to have early success in this

And how does the liquid nitrogen-based

not the case. “Just a few years ago, Hud-

town so we decided to stay in Hudson,”

ice cream stack up to more traditional mix-

son was extremely down. You had hun-

Kleinerman says. After years of market re-

es? It is, in a word, smooth. It’s not quite

dred-year-old buildings empty downtown.”

search and enough chemistry experiments

a mousse but you wouldn’t be faulted for

He and his partners saw the right signs for

to open their own lab, New City Micro-

comparing the velvety consistency with that

growth. In 2012, the aforementioned Rail

creamery opened in 2015. In short, they of-

dessert. Yet, New City’s blend is still as cold

Trail Flatbread opened on Main St. in Hud-

fer ice cream. But this is an oversimplifica-

and creamy as you’d expect a traditional

son and was a virtual overnight success that

tion of their frozen output.

ice cream to be. Everything you’d hope for

temperature and consistency.

has had a big hand in changing the face of

“Best we could tell in all our research, no

with big chunks of flavor that taste like their

Hudson. Then Kleinerman and his partners

one else is making ice cream this way in

namesake. The chocolate chips taste like

started to suffer the pleasant challenges of

such large quantities,” Kleinerman says.

real chocolate, not waxy fragments. Real

instant growth and began looking for their next project.

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Foodies of New England

And what is that way? Given Kleinerman’s buildup, I’m guessing their method for ice

peanut flavor comes through in their peanut butter.

In fact, the staff won’t let me leave until I’ve sampled that day’s 25-flavor menu. It changes regularly and includes vegan options that have just as much creamy flavor as their dairy-filled counterparts. With so much variety and, indeed, adventurous options available (horchata?), it may not be helpful to call them all out. But if you do go and it’s on the menu -- the peanut butter brownie crumble scooped into their in-store crafted waffle cones is a dessert worth every single calorie.

New City Microcreamery has brought culinary innovation and is a key part in the restoration of a small town in Metrowest Massachusetts. The design is open and welcoming.

Executive chef Thomas Kepner

Even those not looking for a cone have options. Craft coffee drinks are always available and, if you’re in the mood for something with more kick, head to the back of the shop and look for the < > symbol and turn on the light.

New City Microcreamery 28 Main Street Hudson, MA 01749 978.333.7144 www.newcitycreamery.com

Grasshopper- Gluton free chocolate cookie and hot fudge

Peanutbutter cookie chocolate ice cream sandwich

Summer 2016

29

Beechy Keen Written by David G. Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

S

et near the elite Gold Coast in the quiet lower Connecticut River Valley, The Copper Beech Inn has been serving up fine relaxing comfort and culinary excellence for many decades. This area of Connecticut is largely unknown except to locals - far enough from New York City and the tri-state theater (NY, NJ, and West CT), it remains a local anchor for a retreat and fine fare away from city troubles, with all the services and convenience any stressed urbanite or weary road warrior could want.

Now under the new ownership of Frank Perrotti, there are exciting plans for expansion and event ideas for the 2016 summer season.

30

Foodies of New England

Seared scallops with roasted red pepper coulis, marinated spring vegetables and fresh lobster

Summer 2016

31

The history of the inn dates to 1889, when Archibald Comstock

they were coy about reserving the right to not reveal individual pur-

built his grand house and outbuildings on 53 acres in the Ivoryton

veyors—a common plea among those coastal places who have

section of Essex. Archibald was the son of Samuel Comstock,

great covert connections among their regional fishing contacts!

founder of the S.M. Comstock Co., a chief importer of ivory and

Some of the other popular opening dishes offered are:

manufacturer of piano keys. When Archibald inherited the busi-

House smoked salmon with avocado, jumbo lump crab and

ness and company, known as Comstock, Cheney and Co., they

caviar vinaigrette, lobster vol au vent with wild mushrooms, tarra-

were manufacturing piano keys, billiard balls, dominoes, and

gon, cognac-orange cream and duck confit with quince-sundried

combs. After myriad other owners, expansion’s and rehabs, it be-

fruit chutney. For entrees, there are pan seared scallops over lob-

came an inn in 1972 and this writer enjoyed a stay in the early 90s.

ster corn risotto, goat cheese & beet ravioli with toasted basili-

The inn has elegantly appointed rooms in three spaces on the

cum sherry cream, braised short ribs with pomme puree, Brus-

property—the Main House, turn-of-the-century Carriage House,

sels sprouts, CBI smoked steak sauce and crispy onion straws,

and the recently completed Comstock House. The restaurant

branzino “Puttanesca-style”- roasted garlic-broccoli rabe, roasted

offers both a French-inspired contemporary dinner menu and a

tomato-olive tapenade and an herb sauce.

casual pub menu. A well-

Oysters are served with

stocked wine list, regional

different sauces, varying

brews,

seasonal

through the seasons. For

and

handcrafted

cocktails

meat lovers, an Iberian

comprise the adult bev-

Antipasto features Ser-

erage offerings. The inn

rano

also hosts live entertain-

cheese and artichokes

ment Friday and Saturday

and Painted Hills strip

nights in the Tap Room

steak with a spiky aru-

and offers a raw bar on

gula and fried shoestring

these nights.

potato salad—a happy

Carlos Cassar, head

ham,

Manchego

twist on the French clas-

chef at Copper Beech

sic steak frites/salad.

Inn, spent 10 years as

The demographics of

executive chef at Boom

the inn’s guests are pri-

restaurant in nearby Ston-

marily traveling couples,

ington, followed by a stint

day-trippers, locals and

at Fresh Salt—the highly

leaf-peepers. They have

acclaimed spa-based restaurant at Saybrook Point Inn [covered

been voted Diners’ Choice Winner by Open Table TWICE now

in a previous issue of Foodies]. He has also competed in the Iron

for Most Romantic destination. Among their recent awards and

Chef Elm City competition in New Haven. Among the techniques

accolades include “The Best Country Inn” for 2012* USA Today/

Chef Carlos uses are those gleaned from workshops he attended

Zagat “America’s Top 100 Hotel Restaurants”, AAA Four-Diamond

at the famed El Bulli restaurant outside Barcelona, considered in

Restaurant, Wine Spectator 2012 “Best of Award of Excellence”,

its day to be the finest eating establishment on the planet. “There

Pip’s 2012 and “Most Romantic Restaurant”*

is a lot of preserving and pickling we do, which helps expand

If the extensive amenities of the inn are not satisfying enough

the seasonal offerings,” says Chef Carlos. The seafood-centered

and one wants to explore the area, fear not! A diverse assortment

menu is high on quality and freshness with emphasis placed on

of nearby excursions include the Essex Steam Train, Goodspeed

small plates.

Opera House, Ivoryton Playhouse, Connecticut River Museum,

Chef Carlos is an active supporter in the Connecticut Farm to

the recently restored Gillette Castle, Hammonasset State Park

Chef Program and takes full advantage of local organic products

Beach plus ample antique and shopping centers in Old Lyme and

when available. “It used to be harder and more difficult. We are in

Essex. Truly a worthy road-trip destination.

our fourth year of participating, and the supply chain keeps get-

* Connecticut Magazine

ting better year by year,” he says. “It’s hard to keep up with the volume we serve using local ingredients, but it is improving. Very encouraging!”

A few of our local sources include Starlight Gardens, Durham; Maple Leaf Lane, Ledyard; and Dough on Main and Fabled Foods, both in Deep River. When pressed for actual seafood sources,

32

Foodies of New England

The Copper Beech Inn 46 Main Street Ivoryton, CT 06442 860.767.0330 www.copperbeechinn.com

Viennese apple strudel atop creme anglaise

Copper beet salad, harissa red and golden beets, goat cheese mouse, arugula

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The seafood-centered menu is high on quality and freshness with emphasis placed on small plates.â&#x20AC;?

Head Chef Carlos Cassar Smoked salmon, avocados, jumbo lump crab, caviar vinaigrette

Summer 2016

33

A little taste of Italy, here in New England!

Our authentic Neo-Neapolitan cuisine is made using only the freshest ingredients. Our pizza is baked in a brick oven and the high temperature produces a thin crust that is cooked to perfection.

135 Westboro Road â&#x20AC;˘ North Grafton, MA 01536 508.839.4900 â&#x20AC;˘ www.anziosbrickovenpizza.com

34

Foodies of New England

5 Great Massachusetts & Rhode Island Expos to Choose From Show times 11 am - 3:30 pm November 6, 2016 Twin River Casino Events Center, Lincoln, RI November 13, 2016 Sturbridge Host Hotel, Sturbridge, MA

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January 8, 2017 Twin River Casino Events Center, Lincoln, RI January 29, 2017 DoubleTree Hotel, Leominster, MA April 9, 2017 Twin River Casino Events Center, Lincoln, RI

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Ask about multi show discounts.

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508-770-0092

Tyler Place Family Resort

Offers a Taste of Vermont Written by Kelley Lynn Kassa Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

F

oodies come in all ages and sizes, and the Tyler Place Family Resort in Highgate Springs, Vermont, has a lot to offer for the foodie family.

On any â&#x20AC;&#x153;averageâ&#x20AC;? week, the resort, which operates from late to May to early September, offers both high-end and family-friendly chef-created meals. And, for many, one of the great aspects of dining at Tyler Place is that the young guests (kids) have their own areas for meals. The adult dining room is truly left to the adults.

36

Foodies of New England

But the resort also offers a special week dedicated to showcasing local food, produce, and area vendors.

The Taste of Vermont week, which takes place after Labor Day, is designed to attract guests of all kinds – not just those looking for relaxing, family fun. “Last year was our inaugural year for ‘A Taste of Vermont’,” said Pixley Tyler Hill, co-owner of the Tyler Place Family Resort. “We had guests of all ranges – from families with pre-schoolers and toddlers, to guests ranging from their 20s to their 70s. The week offered a multi-generational experience. For some guests, it was their first visit to Tyler Place.”

Summer 2016

37

Throughout its history as a public resort, Tyler Place has worked with a number of local food partners, including the Allenholm Farm, Cabot Creamery, Champlain Valley Apiaries, North Country Smokehouse, Vermont Butter and Cheese, Maplebrook Farms, Blythedale Farm, King Arthur Flour, Misty Knoll Farms, Cold Hollow Cider Mill, Jasper Hill Cheese, and more. During the week dedicated to all things Vermont food, resort guests were able to participate in a wine tasting at North Winery followed by an art walk and gourmet picnic at Cold Hollow Sculpture Park; a “mocktails” class; a private, guest-only beer tasting at 14th Star Brewery in St. Albans; a tour of Carman Brook Farm; a working dairy farm; a visit to Choiniere’s Organic Farm; and a Vermont spirits tour, stopping at Boyden Valley Winery and Smuggler’s Notch Distillery.

38

Foodies of New England

Two of the foodie highlights at Tyler Place’s Taste of Vermont are led by the resort’s gardener and head groundskeeper, Claudia Blatzheim-Conrady. Claudia’s regular, season-round programming includes classes on how to grow organic shiitake mushrooms and how to make your own shiitake stir fry..

The second big event led by Claudia was a demonstration (with hands-on participation) on how to make fresh cider – both nonalcoholic and hard cider. Guests were provided with cutting boards and knives with which to chop up apples while Claudia talked about the varieties of apples and science behind cider making. The most adventurous guests were able to work the cider press themselves. Throughout the demonstration, Claudia provided samples of her homemade

Claudia Blatzheim-Conrady

cider to the thirsty participants.

The Taste of Vermont week at Tyler Place is not just about activities. Tyler Place’s culinary and bar staff makes a point of offering dishes and drinks that incorporate the products and flavors of the Green Mountain state. So yes, of course that includes featuring maple syrup. Bar Program Director Hector Hill spent time developing a tasty and sophisticated special cocktail menu for the week. Two of Hill’s hits were the Maple Mojito, featuring Dunc’s Mill Vermont maple rum, garden mint, lime, and soda water, and the Bourbon New Fashioned, made with Smuggler’s Notch Vermont bourbon, Sapling maple liqueur, muddled blackberries, garden thyme, lemon, sugar, and bitters.

These were well-balanced cocktails and a nice way to wind down a day’s worth of foodie activities.

Whether you visit Tyler Place for their Taste of Vermont week or during an “average” week, you’ll find plenty of foodie options. From the wood-fired pizza oven on the grounds to the ample, house-made buffet offerings, Tyler Place truly lives up to the “family resort” in its name.

Summer 2016

39

Cava Tapas & Wine Bar an Environment of Teaching and Learning Written by Sarah Connell Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

C

uisine du marché, or seasonal eating, dictates the menu at Marché aux Fleurs, the California restaurant where Cava’s Executive Chef Gregg Sessler spent a formative portion of his career.

“That was where I received my real education in food,” he said, placing serious emphasis on education.

The philosophy Sessler learned under was simple: offer the highest quality products possible, all made of ingredients sourced from artisan purveyors, and support local familyrun operations.

It’s clear these ideas still resonate with him at Cava, the Portsmouth, New Hampshire restaurant Sessler co-owns with old friend John Akar.

There, he supports his team through education and his customers through experience.

Sessler and Akar’s friendship dates back to their high school days when the ambitious 16 year-olds worked their first restaurant jobs together. Now, Sessler prides himself on building an environment of teaching and learning for his chefs while Akar dials in on impeccable service and curates a stellar wine program aimed at educating consumers.

40

Foodies of New England

Patatas Bravas; fried potatoes, garlic aioli and fried herbs

When Cava opened in November 2008, people questioned Sessler and Akar’s ability to succeed in a downsizing economy.

But, these two locals instantly drew clientele in by launching the area’s first tapas restaurant.

“We knew that we’d be setting our own niche,” Akar said.

This became even more apparent as he developed a true wine bar, in the sense that every bottle on Cava’s wine list would be available by the glass. “We are one of very few places in the state that also holds [sic] a retail license,” he explained. “You can taste half a glass and buy the bottle unopened.”

Cava now holds regular tastings that allow customers to taste through more than thirty wines. Meanwhile, in the kitchen, Sessler prides himself on balancing creativity and consistency in his menu.

“Good food cannot be made of inferior ingredients masked with high flavor.”

“My menu has many items that have remained for over seven years [sic]. Patatas bravas, chickpea fries, Medjool dates, the churros—they’ve become staples of the restaurant,” he said. “People who come for

be made of inferior ingredients masked

these core dishes expect consistency and

with high flavor. It is true thrift to use the

quality every time.”

best ingredients available and to waste

However, the other half of his menu is

nothing.”

constantly changing. “It’s not about being

To further his philosophy and his mission

complex,” he admitted. “It’s about letting the

to educate, Sessler has instituted the dinner

ingredients shine through for what they are

series Pop Up and Coming!, which provides

while giving people an experience they can’t

his young chefs with a venue to prepare

have at home.”

what they’re passionate about.

Sessler has no desire to overcomplicate

“They deserve to be in the spotlight.

things and he’s quick to point out he never

I get the credit for so much of what they put

stops striving to improve. Perhaps the per-

into their work; I wanted them to have their

fect frame through which to view his phi-

night,” he explained.

losophy is the James Beard quote featured

The idea came about when Sessler set

on Cava’s website: “There is absolutely no

out to train young chefs to fit Cava’s sys-

substitute for the best. Good food cannot

tem and subsequently found staff growing continued on page 42

Summer 2016

41

increasingly excited about cooking outside of work.

“They want to be chefs and someday run their own kitchens. If I can help them in that pursuit by showing them what that entails—planning, development, picking out the plates to serve the food on—then I will have achieved my goal for these dinners,” he proudly shared.

Oddly enough, certain qualities of this Spanish tapas and wine bar can be traced back to the Sessler’s time at the Frenchinspired Marché aux Fleurs. Like Marché, Cava’s menu changes alongside the seasons (even within seasons), and like Marché there’s a focus on using quality ingredients.

But, what sets Cava apart is Sessler’s mission to create the highest quality experience possible for his patrons and also his staff.

He proves that supporting the next generation of chefs and restaurateurs can be both

Co-owners John Akar and Executive Chef Gregg Sessler

admirable and delectable.

Cava is located at 10 Commercial Alley, Portsmouth, NH, 03801; Tel. 603.319.1575; Call to inquire about reservations or visit www.cavatapasandwinebar.com; Open Monday through Thursday from 5:00pm to 9:00pm, Friday from 5:00pm to 10:00pm, Saturday from 2:00pm to 10:00pm and Sunday from 5:00pm to 9:00pm.

42

Foodies of New England

Medjool Dates; stuffed with manchego and serrano ham

Pop Up and Coming! with Chef Erika Singson In March, FNE was lucky enough to sit down and eat up Chef Erika Singson’s creations at Pop Up and Coming!

Singson’s intense precision and pride radiated more brightly with each course, earning her Sessler’s profound congratulations (and FNE’s sincerely satiated palate). Take a look at her ambitious menu, which broke down an entire goat from Epping’s Riverslea Farm.

Goat Pâté en Croute A charcuterie masterpiece served with whipped chèvre and figs Wine Selection 2013 Papa Figos, a Portuguese Douro Valley blend of Tinto Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barocca and Touriga Nacional.

Ragout of Goat A deep bowl of house made pappardelle topped with a rich goat demi-glace and two stunning heirloom carrots, cooked whole Wine Selection 2013 Bluegray Priorat, a Spanish blend of Grenache, Terrignon and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Almond Macarons With Valrhona mousse, citrus fruit and raspberries Wine Selection 2013 Boundary Breaks Riesling, a single-clone Riesling from New York’s Finger Lakes Duck Breast; hazlenut & duck skin, chevre and rhubarb red wine

Kristin’s Famous Churros; “hot chocolate”

Summer 2016

43

“History of...”

Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Jodie Lynn Boduch, owner of Much Ado Marketing, serves as Social Media Director and Staff Writer for the Foodies team.

She’s an adventurous explorer of the culinary landscape and enjoys writing about food. Educated in both business and history, she has big plans to put the latter to good use for this column.

44

Foodies of New England

Thyme Thymus vulgaris—wow!

That’s a name that gets your attention.

As do the scent and flavor of thyme itself.

This woody, shrublike herb with tiny, aromatic leaves is easy to grow in not-toowet soil and boasts quite the culinary range. Popular as a fresh or dried seasoning in soups, stews, poultry, meat, and stuffing, a little goes a long way with this potent herb.

Thyme is a standard component in the dried blend Herbes de Provence, as well as a delightful counterpoint in (thyme) honey.

About that name...

It derives from the Latin thymum and Greek thymon. From there, several theories exist as to the nuance of the etymology: “to rise in a cloud” or “having a strong odor” or possibly even “burn as a sacrifice” from the Greek thyein. Courage, from the Greek thymus, is another potential linguistic root.

Thyme: Courageous and Pure Given its Mediterranean origins, thyme is steeped in European culture and history.

Courage and strength of mind are associated with thyme. Romans included thyme in pre-battle bathing rituals, and Virgil wrote that it helps combat fatigue. Medieval European women often affixed a sprig of thyme to their knight’s shining armor as a way of saying “Good Luck With the Courage Thing.”

It’s an intimidating herb, really. In addition to propping up valor, thyme was believed to ward off nightmares. Medicinally it has served the same purpose against germs, going toe to toe with coughs, indigestion, skin conditions, and intestinal parasites.

Thyme’s antiseptic properties date back to ancient Egyptian culture, when the herb was used as a mummification component. The idea of purity carried over to later funerary rituals as well; Europeans often burned thyme as incense at funerals or placed it inside the coffin. The herb was also used in altar fires that purified sacrifices and made them A-OK in the eyes of the gods. continued on page 46

Summer 2016

45

Calling All Fairies Thyme is like catnip for fairies.

Folklore deems it a suitable home for little fairy houses, thanks to the plant’s growing pattern and (presumably) lax safety codes among fairy building inspectors.

Shakespeare references thyme as a fairy hideaway in A Midsummer Night’s Dream, and some gardeners set aside thyme just for fairies—they are, after all, the nighttime overseers of the garden, responsible for polishing leaves and blooms. Fragrant thyme flowers are also attractive to bees, the carrier pigeons of the fairy world.

Fairies and bees aren’t the only ones attracted to thyme. Future husbands are, too, according to a tradition surrounding St. Luke’s Day. Include some thyme in an ointment, invoke St. Luke the Matchmaker, and you’re bound to have a vision of your someday beloved in the Land of Nod.

One Last Thyme It’s expected that any article on thyme would have a pun, so who am I to disappoint? “Thyme” marks the end of my era as the writer of the History of...features. Thank you to all who’ve enjoyed this column, and may you have plenty of cocktail banter for some time to come.

46

Foodies of New England

A Story of Mushroom Foraging with Matthew DeNittis

Written by Julie Grady Thomas Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

E

very human is made of bone, sinew, blood, and stories.

Stories have always passed through us. We tell them, listen to them, learn from them, live them. If these stories are guides given to us from one generation to the next, then the art of foraging is the skill that comes alongside.

In this tale of foraging, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s another narrative about a man made of stories: Sutton, Massachusettsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own expert mushroom forager, Matthew DeNittis.

48

Foodies of New England

From Asti and Back DeNittis began picking oyster mushrooms with his grandfather in Worcester, between Belmont Hill and the Green Hill Golf course. He was about 10, and only months before he’d left his home in Asti, Italy.

He came over on the Castel Felice in 1956, narrowly avoiding a watery fate on the SS Andrea Doria, an immigrant ship that sank just off Nantucket after colliding with the MS Stockholm—one of the worst maritime disasters in US history.

“We had nothing in Italy,” says DeNittis. Foraging for his family was, at that time, a necessity. “We always foraged. That’s what you had to do in order to live.” Chicory, onions, garlic, arugula—all now staples at major restaurants—were once negligible growths in Italy.

Occasionally he goes back for visits and for foraging. “In Europe, it’s a family pastime, but in the US, it’s not really the same,” he explains.

It may be trendier here, but once you find a worthy patch, tradition dictates only one rule: Family or not, keep it to yourself. “Don’t divulge its location until your deathbed,” advises DeNittis.

When in Doubt, Never Eat a Mushroom Mushrooms have deep medicinal and culinary roots in China, Japan, and Europe, not to mention among Native American Indian cultures and the Aztecs.

Twenty or so years ago, mushrooms got another deep root in Worcester when a member of the Health Department spent a night in the ER after eating sulphur shelf mushrooms at a culinary event.

“Everyone else at the dinner was fine,” recounts DeNittis, who is qualified and licensed by the state of Massachusetts to gather mushrooms for consumption. “We took him to [the mycology lab at] Clark University to prove that the mushrooms were fine, too. He was just one in a million who had that allergic reaction.”

A small percentage of people are allergic to mushrooms. In rare cases, even cremini (commonly known as button mushrooms) can cause anaphylactic shock.

“A lot of the old timers, they would do certain things to tell if the mushroom was okay: when cooking they’d stick in a silver dollar or some garlic, and if either of those turned black that would be a bad sign. Or, they’d just feed it to the cat or dog and see [what happens],” DeNittis, who has more than 59 years of experience, says with a chuckle. continued on page 50

Summer 2016

49

the ground.

Back in 1999, when DeNittis started selling mushrooms, he received a cease and desist letter from the FDA. “And rightly so,” he adds.

In order to keep things legal, he met up with Dr. David Hibbett, a top mycologist and professor at Clark University.

Dr. Hibbett certified him after some training and referred him to The Boston Mycological Club for monthly meetings, classes, and foraging walkabouts.

“That’s where you start,” says DeNittis.

“That’s where you learn. It’s the easiest way and it’s what they do.”

While any expertise requires study, foraging is more than picking up a book. It takes competent guidance and hands-on experience. The sulphur shelf, for example, is per“These don’t work. The only way to know is

Foraging Dos & Don’ts

fectly edible, but only if it grows on certain

to know your species.”

Irresponsible foraging depletes resources.

trees.

While some mushrooms are fatal when

Picking the wrong produce can cause bodi-

Foraging is an ancient skill mastered only

eaten, even common mushrooms carry mild

ly harm and in some cases death. You can

by those of us willing to listen. And like sto-

toxins. Cremini and portobello (the same

even break the law.

ries, it’s passed down from one person to

mushroom at different stages of growth)

As tempting as picking your own may be,

the next. Until you can recognize the entire

have naturally occurring carcinogens that

each state, or country for that matter, has

context of where/how/what/when a mush-

reduce when cooked.

different laws when it comes to foraging.

room grows, don’t go on solo forays into

“Always cook [mushrooms],” says DeNit-

In Italy, foragers are required to use bas-

the forest. Get the field experience you need

tis. “Their outer structure inhibits digestion;

kets, not plastic bags. This is because plas-

directly from a knowledgeable person, who

cell walls carry a compound that inactivates

tic bags, although incredibly light and air-

has gotten it directly from a knowledgeable

digestive enzymes. When you eat them raw,

tight, restrict the natural spreading of spores

person, who also has gotten it directly from

you’ll lose all the nutritional benefits they offer.”

that would have otherwise dropped to

a knowledgeable person…

50

Foodies of New England

Matthew DeNittis picks chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius); porcini (Boletus edulis); sulphur shelf (Laetiporus sulphureus) or chicken-of-the-woods; morels

Why Are Wild Mushrooms Better?

(Morchella esculenta); maitake (Grifola frondosa) or hen-of-the-woods; oyster

The taste, the texture, the nutrition. Depending on what species grows where, mushrooms can take on different flavors like umami, or even cinnamon and pine.

Wild oyster mushrooms host an incredibly intense flavor and huge nutritional value. The difference is substrates. In this case, a substrate essentially is any substance on which a mushroom can grow. In the wild, a myriad of nutrients, soils, minerals, and decay is available, but when cultivated, the growing medium most often used is straw.

(Pleurotus ostreatus); and matsutake (Tricholoma matsutake or Tricholoma magnivelare, depending on whether or not you recognize that the Asian mushroom is genetically corresponds with the North American mushroom) also known as pine mushroom; You can find the fruits of his foraging at Romaine’s, Willy’s Steakhouse, Volturno, Sweet, Armsby Abbey, Birch Tree Bakery, Rovezzi, Twisted Fork, Shabu, Living Earth, and Sonoma.

For more information on mushroom foraging and how to get involved, please contact The Boston Mycological Club at http://www.bostonmycologicalclub. org/ or bostonmycologicalclub@gmail.com.

Magical Mushrooms Mushrooms have incredible nutritional qualities. Maitake have antiviral, immune-enhancing properties and have shown to help with high blood pressure and blood sugar levels. A baffled DeNittis admitted that he doesn’t understand why pharmaceutical companies haven’t looked into the natural properties of mushrooms.

And he’s not the only one who thinks so. Paul Stamets, one of the top mycologists in the world, has found that oyster mushrooms aren’t only high in protein, iron, zinc, potassium, thiamin, vitamin B6, magnesium, manganese, selenium, have loads of antioxidants, antibacterial qualities and can lower cholesterol, they can also help clean hazardous waste spills (e.g., diesel fuel, heavy metals).

Summer 2016

51

Gluten Free

Foraging In Your Own Kitchen Written by Ellen Allard Gluten Free Diva www.glutenfreediva.com Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ellen Allard, the Gluten Free Diva, is an over-the-moon enthusiastically hip and motivational Certified Holistic Health Coach who helps

home from college. They would work together to create the most gourmet meal they could from whatever was in the pantry. I decided to take a page out of this man’s notebook and see if I could concoct a gluten-free, vegan meal fit for a

king or a queen, whichever is the case.

I went to work, starting with the bag of russet potatoes sitting in a wire basket on my kitchen counter. For once, I had potatoes that hadn’t hung around long enough to develop eyes. You know what I mean—those weird, scary white bumpy protrusions that develop on past-their-prime potatoes.

I found a bag of bright orange carrots in my refrigerator and one lonely onion keep-

clients banish the bloat and

ing the bag of potatoes company. Of course, I always have lemons in my refrigerator,

embrace gluten free lifestyle changes

nutritional yeast in my pantry, and raw cashews in my freezer. The rest of the ingre-

that enable them to fall madly in

dients are also standards in my kitchen. So I was all set to make my Vegan Mac n’

love with the food that unequivocally loves them back. A graduate of the Institute for Integrative

Cheese recipe.

But I decided that the meal wouldn’t be complete without some sort of bread-type item. Brown Rice Wraps to the rescue! I almost always have a package of these in my freezer and this was no exception. I could’ve just thrown one of the round wraps

Nutrition, Ellen is a recipe developer,

into the microwave to heat and soften it, but I tend to lean towards a bit more flavor

food writer, food photographer and

sophistication than that.

videographer (www.glutenfreediva. com/blog/.) She passionately promotes optimal health through informed food choices and whole plant-based foods. She loves all things food and health and is happy to talk to you about the same!

52

I

once met a man who did a pantry challenge with his sons whenever they came

Foodies of New England

Voilà! I foraged in my pantry, my refrigerator, and my freezer. And the end result was that I ate like royalty. I challenge you to do the same. What can you make from the ingredients you already have at your fingertips? Ready, set, go!

Summer 2016

53

Ellen’s Gluten-Free & Vegan Mac n’ Cheese

Ingredients: Serves 4 2 c. roughly chopped russet potatoes 1 c. roughly chopped carrots 1/4 c. roughly chopped white onion 3/4 - 1 c. water from boiling the potatoes, carrots, and onion 1/4 c. raw cashews 2 tsp. gluten-free tamari (can use soy sauce, Bragg’s Liquid Aminos, or Coconut Aminos) 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1/2 c. nutritional yeast (I like the Kal brand) 1/2 tsp. Himalayan pink salt ground black pepper to taste 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. onion powder 1 tsp. smoked paprika pinch of cayenne pepper 1 c. frozen peas 1 lb. gluten free corkscrew or elbow pasta (or other small shape of your choice) Directions: Cook the potatoes, carrots, and onions in a steamer basket until tender (see note). The water should only come to the bottom of the steamer basket. While they’re cooking, put the rest of the ingredients in your blender (cashews through cayenne pepper). When the vegetables are tender (but not too mushy), add them to the blender with 3/4 cup of the water that the vegetables were cooked in.

Blend until smooth, adding more water as necessary.

Microwave the peas until cooked, making sure not to overcook them. Set aside.

Cook the pasta per the directions on the package. Drain and rinse. Return the pasta to the cooking pot. Add sauce and peas, gently combining everything. Reheat as necessary.

Add more salt and pepper to taste. Leftover sauce lasts several weeks in the refrigerator.

NOTE: My new favorite appliance is the Instant Pot. I use this to pressure cook the potatoes, carrots, and onions for 6 minutes with a quick release. For more information, Google Instant Pot or look up my blog at www.glutenfreediva.com.

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Foodies of New England

Brown Rice Garlic Rosemary Crisps Ingredients: Serves 2 1 package gluten free brown rice wraps 1 - 2 tsp. olive oil 1/4 tsp. Himalayan pink salt 1/8 tsp. ground black pepper 1/2 tsp. dried rosemary, chopped 1/2 tsp. garlic powder Directions: Preheat oven to 350°.

Rinse one brown rice wrap under running water.

Place in microwave and heat on high for 5 seconds until soft and then place on baking pan.

Combine the olive oil, salt, pepper, rosemary and garlic powder. Spread it on the brown rice wrap with a pastry brush, covering the entire surface of one side of the wrap.

Bake for 15 minutes or until crisp. Break into small pieces.

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There are steakhouses, and then there are fine dining establishments that provide a superior experience while featuring outstanding steaks.

Butcher cut salt & pepper Tomahawk rib steak for two

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Foodies of New England

The

Bancroft: An Upscale Steakhouse with a Touch of Swank Written by Peggy Bridges Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

T

he Bancroft is one of the latter, with the physical surroundings being as much a part of the dining experience as the outstanding fare. The Bancroft combines a contemporary urban feel with a touch

of 1920s swank. Guests can enjoy hand-crafted cocktails at the magnificent bar or enjoy a remarkable meal prepared by Executive Chef Mario Capone as they sit in one of the open dining areas.

The space was planned to wow. Exceptional pieces of dĂŠcor have come together to create a dynamic space and an ambiance reminiscent of a bygone era. Thoughtful touches such can be found everywhere you look, making The Bancroft a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. Center stage is the large, beautifully

appointed

bar

surrounded

by

comfortable

upholstered bar chairs. continued on page 58

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57

Absinthe decanter as used in the 1920’s

Hand cut prime steak tartare; pickled shallots and violet mustard

It’s hard to miss the display of absinthe decanters in the brightly-lit opening in the center top of the bar. Representative of the establishment’s 1920s theme, absinthe is a liquor that was forbidden at the turn of the last century, and still bears a certain mystique.

Located at the corner of Middlesex Turnpike and 3rd Avenue in Burlington, Massachusetts, the entire establishment is housed within a two-story structure having ceiling-to-floor glass walls that comprise the front corner of the building. Guests seated in the main dining area enjoy an open-air feel with ceilings rising to the second floor and two-story views as they glance outside. In the rear central area of the restaurant is a mezzanine with a catwalk looking down over the lower dining areas on the outside, and an impressive wine collection behind another glass wall in the center. Wines are carefully chosen for quality and pairings with Chef Mario’s food and rotated with season and vintage changes.

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Foodies of New England

A great deal of forethought has been put into the quality and sources of the foods that Chef Mario prepares. He uses the freshest ingredients from local farms, including Webber Restaurant Group’s own Gibbet Hill Farm General Manager, Richard Brackett, explains that Chef Mario’s is “... a scratch kitchen, with little or nothing that comes in the door making it directly to the plate.” Deliveries arrive seven days-a-week, and everything is made in-house and produced from the kitchen – right down to the dinner rolls. Chef Mario Capone has had experience in such highly regarded Boston area restaurants as Locke-Ober, Scampo, and Towne, as well as Daniel in New York City and Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas. The presentation is pure artistry, evidenced in such dishes as the Szechuan Crusted Ahi Tuna and, most notably, in the 42 ounce Butcher Cut Tomahawk Rib Steak for two. Adding the finishing touch to Chef Mario’s creations is the gracious, stylishly attired staff who complete the dining experience, much like the ribbon on a package.

The Bancroft has also become a popular spot for business meetings by local companies in the busy Burlington area, so much so that their private meeting rooms are often booked solid through the work week. There are three private meeting rooms on the first floor, and another on the mezzanine level. The approach to the mezzanine meeting room includes a trip up a unique steel stairway that is inset continued on page 60

The Tomahawk rib steak sliced for serving

Szechuan crusted ahi tuna; gingered yu choy and carrot pureé

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with small rounds of bottle glass, designed in the same style as turnof-the-century industrial buildings and subway stations to maximize ambient light with no waste of electricity. Proceeding along the suspended catwalk, guests arriving at the back of the mezzanine enter a large private meeting room boasting a unique conference table, the top of which was made from a single piece of an enormous walnut tree from the Pacific northwest. The piece was so large that it had to be cut to the desired length just to get it into the building.

So if you’re looking for an exceptional steak and a unique dining experience, try The Bancroft. Be sure to arrive early and allow yourself time to enjoy a hand-crafted cocktail prepared by one of The Bancroft’s skilled mixologists. Perhaps a Proletariat would be tempting? Sip it while you sit in a comfy bar chair and take in the surroundings, including the passersby outside. And when you’re seated for dinner by the exceptionally pleasant staff, you’ll need a few extra moments to peruse the menu before deciding which of Chef’s creations you’d like to try. No matter what you choose, you won’t be disappointed.

The Bancroft 15 3rd Avenue Burlington, MA 01803 781.221.2100 www.the-bancroft.com

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Foodies of New England

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Bancroft combines a contemporary urban feel with a touch of 1920s swank.â&#x20AC;?

Jumbo lump crab cake; remoulade, avocado and crisp plantain

Proletariat; Hammer & Sickle vodka, passion fruit, ginger beer and fernet-vallet

Prime Steak Au Poivre; red wine and bone marrow

Executive chef Mario Capone

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Gardens by Renee

Written by Renee Bolivar Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Renee is an agri-entrepeneur who has turned her passion for growing fruits, veggies and herbs into a successful and “growing” business.

She believes in self reliance and lives by the motto, “Grow Your Own!” Gardens by Renee is committed to growing food, gardens, and people’s knowledge of where our food comes from, one seed at a time. Through her business, Renee teaches foodies how to grow their own food, helping them to design, build, install and manage backyard gardens that focus on a backyard experience for the entire family to enjoy.

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Foodies of New England

Summertime Gardening Vacations and All With a little planning and some helpful tips from yours truly, you can be eating fried clams and lobster all summah long and still be reaping the benefits of growing your own food.

Way too often, I hear people say one reason they don’t put in edible gardens is because they fear their summer schedules just won’t allow for it. They think growing can only be done during the prime months of summer or that there’s no way to keep a garden alive and healthy when traveling. Well, I’m here to tell you that that’s crazy talk. You absolutely can have a garden and grow your own fresh and clean fruits, veggies, herbs and edible flowers, even if you are away for extended periods of time.

Crop selection, planting for spring or fall, planting in containers, and bartering with a neighbor or hiring a landscape professional specializing in edibles are a few ways around this dilemma. continued on page 66

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One thing I recommend is to plan and plant for a spring and fall garden. Instead of planting our summertime favorites like zucchini, corn, cukes, and toms, I recommend planting lots of lettuces, peas, and leafy greens like kale, chard, collards, and spinach in the early spring, as soon as the ground is workable. Then, plant cool weather crops like broccoli, leeks, Brussels sprouts, carrots, beets and other root veggies mid-summer for a delectable fall harvest. Here in New England, we can extend our growing season by using garden fabrics and making hoop houses. I’ve picked spinach and carrots in December!

If you’re doing some traveling, you’re bound to run into some roadside stands filled with locally-grown goodness. And farmers markets are popping up just about everywhere! Finding freshly-picked tomatoes and corn, cucumbers, and green beans will not be a challenge. Plus, as growing your own food becomes more and more popular, you’re likely to have at least one neighbor who’s joined the slow food movement.

Gardeners like to share. I’ve had summers where I’ve grown so much zucchini squash that I gave it away to the neighbors by the bagful. You can only make so much relish, if you know what I mean.

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Foodies of New England

If you just can’t go without fresh tomatoes off the vine and the thought of not having a garden in the summer isn’t an option, with a little planning, there are ways to plant around vacations or weekends away. When I leave for a long weekend, I move all of my potted plants into the irrigation zone. I water my garden deep and long right before I leave. If you don’t have irrigation, you can set up a soaker hose or drip line on a timer that connects right to a spigot. You can also place your growing containers in a dish or five-gallon pail with a couple inches of water in the bottom. The plants can wick up the water as needed. I find neighbors are always willing to stop by and water especially if I tell them to help themselves to the bounty (it’s a win-win situation). The plants get watered and harvested and your neighbor gets fresh tomatoes. You can also hire a neighborhood kid or a landscape professional to water and check on your garden.

Enjoy the summer and all that it brings. Don’t give up the idea of growing your own food just modify your plan to do it.

When you get back from a busy summer of surf and sand, come home to your garden, dig in, and keep growing.

For more information on Gardens by Renee, visit www.gardensbyrenee.com.

You can follow Renee on Twitter @gardensbyrenee, Pinterest www.pinterest.com/gardensbyrenee/growyourown, and Facebook www.facebook.com/gardensbyrenee.

Summer 2016

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Wright’s Farm Four Generations of Dairy Farming Written by Christine Whipple Photography by Scott Erb, Donna Dufault

O

n a Saturday morning I waited to buy muffins the size of a fist at Wright’s Dairy Farm Bake Shop in North Smithfield, Rhode Island.

A little girl beside me asked her grandfather, “Can we see the cows being milked?” Her younger brother asked, “Gramps, can

we buy the chocolate milk that grows in their belly?” He chuckled.

Wright’s Dairy Farm has been a family business since 1914. In 1936, pasteurization became a legal necessity. While many farms closed, not willing or able to make the necessary equipment investment, a dairy and milk processing plant was set up at Wright’s and a home delivery route of milk and cream in glass bottles began.

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Foodies of New England

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According to 4th generation dairy farmer/manager Ellen (Wright) Puccetti, her grandfather, Ernest, had over 700 customers at the height of his delivery route (late 1950s). If customers were home, he would walk by their milk box, through the front door, into the kitchen and place the milk in the refrigerator. He often sat down for a cup of coffee and conversation before making his next delivery.

In the 1970s, Ernest sold the business to his son, Edward Wright. Edward and his wife, Claire, opened a retail farm store and discontinued the home delivery route.

They recognized

trends that were changing the milk delivery business. People started drinking gallons of milk rather than quarts, and many preferred skim to whole milk. Knowing that selling milk was not enough, Claire started making crème pies. “The first bakery was in our mother’s kitchen,” Ellen says with a smile. “She made chocolate cream pies and cream puffs with the extra milk and cream from our herd of cows. As [the bakery] grew into a small converted garage, we added blueberry muffins and chocolate chip cookies to the line.” In 1976, the official bakery opened.

Wright’s hired 3 people; today they employ 50.

Wright’s Farm not only cares for 125 Holsteins milked twice a day, but it also pasteurizes and bottles dairy milk on-site. Milk flows from the cows through a pipeline to the dairy plant, located at the back of the retail store; it goes from cow to bottle within 24 hours. Fresh dairy milk has a natural sweet, full flavor and lasts about two weeks–longer than milk purchased at a grocery store.

Refrigeration is important since each 5° rise in milk temperature shortens milk’s shelf life by 50%.

Wright’s sells approximately 5,000 gallons of milk each week.

A cow gives approximately 8 gallons of milk per day, enough for over 100 people to have a glass of milk every day. That’s 62,500 glasses just from one Rhode Island farm.

For more information on Wright’s Dairy Farm, 200 Woonsocket Hill Road, please visit http://wrightsdairyfarm.com.

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Foodies of New England

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Ellen Wright Puccetti and brother Clayton Wright

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Foodies of New England

â&#x20AC;&#x153;A cow gives approximately 8 gallons of milk per day, enough for over 100 people to have a glass of milk every day. â&#x20AC;?

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Written by Chef Denny Corriveau Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Road Trippin’

FOOD

I

t’s well known that I will go to any length to find great food or create a new food experience, at least for those who know me.

Some of my most memorable day trips have been to unique locations that help me feel an enhanced connection to my food.

This connection has existed for many years, but it started with the picnic basket.

I never had to worry about Yogi attempting to steal mine, and it’s a good thing because I’ve created some interesting food memories that involved traveling to a destination, taking in what nature has to offer, and relaxing with some great food.

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Foodies of New England

Summer 2016

75

My gears began turning. How could I capitalize on this special wine, indigenous to the area, and combine it with another adventure to create a compelling food exploit?

After a bit of chitchat with the locals, I discovered there was a fishermen’s coop nearby, so my wife and I set out in the truck.

Alongside the ocean, we found a metal building sat by itself.

I got out and walked around looking for signs of life when, lo and behold, a man surfaced making his way toward the dock. As I spoke with him, a lobster boat pulled up, its crew passing fresh catch to the gentlemen.

Kindly, I asked if he’d be open to selling the WildCheff some fruit of the sea. “How many do you need?” Sweeter words were never heard.

I walked back to the truck to surprise my wife with six of the freshest lobsters you could ever find.

After discussing how I could piece this meal together, my wife asked, “Can we have steak too?”

As the old saying goes, I love it when I plan comes together.

When all was said and done back at the rental, which overlooked the ocean, Some adventures included grabbing a

famed foodie spot to see what the buzz is

bucket, knee high boots, a pitchfork, and

all about. Others may choose to make it

heading to the shoreline in search of fresh

more of an adventure, driving the roads of

clams for fritters, chowder, clams casino or

New England hoping to find a hole-in-the-

a yummy grilled flatbread.

wall for an unexpected foodie experience.

Others were in the fields, where I

You’d be surprised at what you might find

searched for sustainable food. I remember

if you are willing to do a little bit of exploring.

packing a small cooler with artisan cheeses

A few years back, I was vacationing in

and bread, dry-cured wild boar saucisson,

Maine with my wife. We were in the perfect

fruit and a handy cutting board. I would take

spot, just within striking distance of Bar Har-

a moment to enjoy the scenic views, beauti-

bor, yet still in the center of Maine’s blueber-

ful streams and waterfalls all while reveling in

ry country—seafood and blueberries, two of

the contents of that cooler.

my absolute favorites.

I’ve sought out distinct locations that offer one-of-a-kind food countless times. Some

We had never been to this area, so some day trips were in order.

excursions required my involvement and

On the way to our rental the day before,

participation, while others have been sim-

we passed a sign for a fruit winery, which

pler, just hitting the road to see what I could

was where we began our quest. We discov-

find. And I’m not the only one; it’s good to

ered it nestled in the woods, like something

see more people rediscovering their love of

out of Hansel and Gretel. It made some of

food and road trippin’.

the best fruit wines I’ve ever tasted, and

Some may jump in a car to seek out a

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Foodies of New England

yes, they had a Maine blueberry wine.

I created a meal that consisted of lobster chowder, steamed lobster, local grass-fed steaks, Maine potato salad, local corn, and the Maine blueberry wine that started it all.

We sat on the deck enjoying our road trippin’ meal and said to one another, “Does life get any better than this?”

See recipe on page 78 About the author: Denny Corriveau is Award-Winning Master Game Chef and the Founder of the Free Range Culinary Institute, the only national wild game cooking school in the country.

As a trendsetter in the field of wild game culinary arts, and Wild Game Evangelist - Denny has evolved over the past 25+ years as a nationally noted authority regarding his “best practice” methodology regarding the culinary side of wild game. You can learn more about Denny @ www.wildcheff.com

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WildCheff’s Coastal Clam Flatbread Ingredients: 2-3 Dozen littleneck clams (raw, shucked) 1-2 Slices of prosciutto, rough chopped WildCheff Lemon Olive Oil (available at WildCheff.com) 2 Cloves of garlic, minced Some Lemon juice, freshly squeezed 1 tsp. Lemon zest 1 tsp. WildCheff Sagemary Sea Salt 1 tsp. Mexican oregano 1 Tbsp. Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped 2 Tbsp. Parmigiano Reggiano, grated 1 Package of Naan bread (2 pack) **Gluten-free pizza dough could be substituted DIRECTIONS 1. Shuck the clams, rinsing the shells thoroughly before opening. Reserve the clam meat and juice in a bowl. Use kitchen shears or a sharp kitchen knife to coarsely chop the meat to roughly the size of a nickel.

2. Over medium heat, warm a sauté pan. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of the Lemon Olive Oil to the pan, along with the chopped garlic. Sauté for approximately 30 seconds, remove from heat, and stir in the lemon zest.

4. Brush the top of the two Naan breads with the flavor infused oil.

5. Generously top the flatbreads with the juicy chopped clam meat.

6. Sprinkle some Sagemary salt, Mexican oregano, and flat leaf parsley. Top with the prosciutto and Parmesan cheese.

7. Place the flatbreads onto an outdoor grill that’s at medium heat. Close the lid and cook for approximately 5 to 7 minutes, until the cheese has slightly melted and the edges begin to softly brown. **Do not overcook, as clams will become dry and chewy.

8. Remove from the grill and garnish with a small amount of freshly squeezed lemon juice and a drizzle of the Lemon Olive Oil. 9. Slice and serve with alongside white wine, such as Muscadet, Pinot Grigio, or Sauvignon Blanc.

78

Foodies of New England

Stepping Back in Time at the

Braised Veal Short Ribs with braising liquor, asparagus, and Yukon gold mash

80

Foodies of New England

Publick House

Q

Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Quick—think “quintessential historic New England restaurant.”

What imagery does it evoke?

Comfort food, both savory and sweet. Creaky, wide-planked wooden floors. Period furnishings, exposed beams, and wood-burning fireplaces. Oh, and the satisfyingly stuffed patrons who come back again and again.

You’ve just envisioned the Publick House Historic Inn of Sturbridge, Massachusetts.

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Those visuals are accompanied by glori-

The dish that’s the hands-down crowd

pan-roasted, crab-stuffed trout. This reflects

ously distinct scents, starting with those

favorite is the turkey dinner. “We do a com-

the astute philosophy of Executive Chef Ken

wood-burning fireplaces. “That smell alone

plete dinner with all the trimmings: tur-

O’Keefe, whose aim is to “take culinary tra-

is inviting; it takes you a step back into [sic]

key, mashed potatoes, butternut squash,

ditions and move them forward through sea-

time in America,” says Michael Harrington,

sausage-cornbread stuffing, and cranberry

sonal foods and cross-generational dishes.”

the general manager at the Publick House

sauce,” said Harrington. “We have Thanks-

One such cross-generational dish is also

for 11 years. “The scent of sweet rolls in the

giving every day.”

bakery, plus fireplaces, plus comfort food— it’s like walking into a home.”

And of course, there’s the sensory centerpiece of it all: the food.

his favorite: the pan-roasted leg of lamb with

Those classics are a given at the Publick

bourbon demi glaze, pan-dripped potatoes,

House, and Harrington is confident they’ll

and sautéed green beans. “We use a cut of

stay on the menu. A few years back, the

leg of lamb that’s approachable and afford-

Yankee Pot Roast was taken off the menu—

able for the younger generation that also

Harrington says popular plates are meat-

briefly. There was so much backlash it was

brings back great memories for the older

loaf (with locally sourced meat), baked

added right back on, securing its place as a

generation of their family dinners and holi-

scrod, and pot pies, including the lobster pie

signature dish.

days,” he says.

that has been on the menu since at least the 1940s, back when it was just $4.

The menu also features modern fare,

It’s fitting that O’Keefe is cognizant of

such as the braised veal short rib and the

bridging generational gaps through his

Warm spinach smoked salmon salad with lemon basil vinaigrette, fried capers and red onions

82

Foodies of New England

Sweet rolls

Executive Chef Ken O’Keefe

dishes. It was, after all, his grandparents who inspired him to become a chef. “They challenged me to always try new things. My grandmother would always say, ‘How do know if you don’t like it until you try it?’” “This, and watching Julia Child as a kid, sent me off into the culinary world.”

And while the Publick House is only one part of the culinary world, it’s a sizeable one.

The “little inn with big hospitality” serves over 100,000 guests per year, hosts 175 weddings per year, can seat up to 600 across all its rooms, and this past Easter, it served 1300 hungry patrons.

“The raspberry-filled sugar cookies, sticky buns, and brownies are just some desserts that will beckon for your attention.”

Yet no matter where you are on the property, be it the Tap Room (once home to the original kitchen) or Ebenezer’s Tavern or one of the 11 private rooms, the look, feel, and warmth is consistent throughout—as is the service. Turnover is low, and a number of long-term staff members have made a career there.

Remember we mentioned those satisfyingly stuffed patrons? Well, all that good food might just

Pan Roasted Atlantic Cod with strawberry rhubarb chutney and stewed barley and buttered green beans

leave you too full for dessert. Passing it up is only the first of two tests. You still have to pass the Bake Shoppe on your way out.

The raspberry-filled sugar cookies, sticky buns, and brownies are just some desserts that will beckon for your attention. From child to adult, Harrington says the Bake Shoppe pleases everyone and that patrons really know their sweets.

A slight tweak in the smiley face icing sugar cookie recipe prompted some parents to call saying, “It’s not the same as when I was a kid…” And like the pot roast, the original recipe made a welcome return.

As do the customers, day after day, year after year, and generation after generation.

The Publick House 277 Main Street Sturbridge, MA 01566 508.347.3313 www.publickhouse.com Three-Berry Tart

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83

Enjoy the

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84

Foodies of New England

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Clams Two Way; Bob’s and Lillian’s style clams, fries, cole slaw and roll

86

Foodies of New England

BEST in CLAM SHACKS

Bob’s Clam Hut Where the Focus is the Fish Written by Jeff Cutler Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Sustainable seafood. That’s the prevailing current restaurant model.

But at Bob’s Clam Hut in Kittery, Maine, this mindset was normal long before it became fashionable.

Robert Kraft (not that Robert Kraft) started the restaurant in 1956 by transforming the land behind his parent’s home on Route 1 into a seafood stand. Tired of the slew of “shacks” dotting the region, Kraft decided his restaurant would be a “hut.” At this hut, Kraft and his dedicated employees served seafood to travelers going up and down Route 1.

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87

Fish Dinner

Flash forward to 1986 when current

Fried Clams; Glutton free battered clams

type of seafood.

Landgarten says each has its own charac-

owner Michael Landgarten purchased the

Landgarten says it’s the breadth of tra-

teristics and when prepared properly can be

restaurant. As Kraft would have wanted,

ditional Maine seafood dishes that put the

as delicious as the more familiar items on

the real stars at Bob’s are still the seafood

Clam Hut ahead of the competition.

the menu.

dishes. The signature dish is the fried clams,

Popular dishes include New England

The restaurant contributes to the local

prepared with clams selected for consistent

Clam Chowder, Haddock & Chips, Jumbo

economy by shopping primarily in Maine

size and quality.

Lobster Roll (served hot with butter or cold

and surrounding states. Landgarten says

Diners can choose to have fried clams

with mayo), and Fried Oysters. Landgarten

the staff and all suppliers are “fanatical

prepared one of two ways. The traditional

adds another: “…my cherished recipe for

about quality seafood and strengthening the

preparation (Bob’s Style) is simple, light, and

hearty and rustic Lobster Stew with gener-

New England fishing community.”

delicious. The clams are dredged in flour

ous pieces of fresh, sweet lobster, chunks of

with no seasoning and fried in clean vege-

veggies and a touch of cream.”

“We have a commitment to using locally sourced seafood and meat,” he says. “Our

table oil. According to Landgarten, this pro-

A self-proclaimed fish-sandwich expert,

purveyors include Carl’s Meat Market for

vides more clams per order than you might

Landgarten has learned a lot since buying

Bob’s popular 80/20 beef burgers and Tay-

get at other restaurants.

the Clam Hut, particularly about the seafood

lor Lobsters (both from Kittery, Maine). Fresh

The second option is Lillian’s Style. Lillian

economy and supply and demand. He says

batches of Bob’s famous clams arrive daily

Mangos, an employee who came on board

clams cost a mere $36 per gallon in 1986

from Ipswich, Massachusetts and Atlantic

right after Landgarten purchased the restau-

and now that price hovers around $160 for

haddock and scallops are caught by day-

rant, had a different take as to how clams

the same amount.

boats off the gulf of Maine.”

should be prepared. (She’d owned her own

He also notes that some species of fish

While there is no typical Bob’s diner,

restaurant for 22 years.) Lillian’s Style clams

and shellfish are moving north to colder wa-

Landgarten says there are customers who

are prepared with an extra step of dipping

ters and aren’t always available. Landgarten

come back regularly each time they drive up

each and every clam in an egg wash before

ensures the restaurant and suppliers both

Route 1 in Maine. Bob’s Clam Hut is open

breading. The step adds a hint of sourdough

maintain their commitment to the environ-

year-round except for Christmas, Thanks-

flavor and an added crispiness.

ment and sustainable practices.

giving and during major snow events, and

The dueling dishes remain on the menu,

Since the availability of different fish spe-

the restaurant employs almost 100 people

and Landgarten says there’s great de-

cies has also affected the menu from time

at the height of the summer season. See

mand for them both. Perhaps it’s because

to time. Landgarten says it’s important to

more

the clams selected for all Bob’s dishes

make use of fish that might have previously

or by driving over the bridge into Maine

are so fresh. From lobster to haddock to

been overlooked. He says the restaurant is

and north on Route 1 for about a mile…

cusk to clams, the restaurant focuses on

encouraging guests to try less heavily fished

Bob’s is on the left, just past the Kittery

making tasty offerings with every possible

species such as hake, redfish, and cusk.

Trading Post.

88

Foodies of New England

at

http://www.bobsclamhut.com/

Bob’s Style Fried Clams Ingredients:

A blend of white flour and corn flour Canola or peanut oil 8 oz select “specials” frying clams “Select” means they are a consistent size. This is critical because clams of different sizes demand different cooking times and you’ll be frying these in one batch.

“Specials” indicates the size of the select is a desirable one – about the size of a nickel. Not too small (no flavor) or too large (belly overwhelms the experience, but some hard core folks love big bellies).

Owner Michael Landgarten

Whoopie Pie

DIRECTIONS 1. Heat oil to 350 degrees.

2.

Drop clams directly into the flour and gently coat. Carefully move a finger inside each neck ring to ensure it is fully coated.

3.

Place clams in pasta basket and gently shake off excess flour. Place clams in fryer basket and drop directly into the oil. Cook for 2 – 3 minutes.

4. Do not shake baskets while cooking and try not to pull clams out of the oil until done.

5.

Look for two colors – a darker and lighter brown appearing on the clam neck. When oil sizzle starts to cease, the clams are done. Pull immediately and gently pour onto paper towel to absorb excess oil.

6.

Mix a tartar sauce using Hellman’s mayo, sweet or dill relish, capers or a favorite hot sauce. Squeeze a little lemon on the clams and indulge!

Note: For Lillian’s Style, a crunchier, puffier coating, dip clams in milk before dredging in flour.

Lobster Roll

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Mussels & Clams Portofino; SautĂŠed with an aromatic blend of fresh herbs, tomato, shallots & kale

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Foodies of New England

BEST in CLAM SHACKS

George’s of Galilee Where Tradition Meets Trend Written by Tom Verde Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

It’s rather like that old rock n’ roll debate: are you a Beatles or a Stones fan?

For Rhode Island natives weaned on clam chowder (clear broth only, please) and clam cakes (some out-of-staters call them fritters), you either swear by Narragansett’s classic shore dining hall Aunt Carrie’s or the seaside restaurant George’s in the nearby, bustling fishing port of Galilee.

Both establishments are so deeply embedded in the state’s culinary psyche their logos ought to be emblazoned on the Ocean State’s official seal, astride its anchor.

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“You may be surprised to find monkfish braised in garlic, butter and sherry, served with tomato bacon jam.”

While each eatery was founded circa 1920, Carrie’s traditional clam shack menu has

remained

largely

unchanged,

took over in 1969, but kept the menu pretty

Leon cooks,” said Durfee of the broiled blue-

much the same.

fish that appears seasonally on the menu. “I

yet

Durfee attributes George’s last decade

don’t know how he does it, and he won’t

George’s has shucked most of its deep-

of change to chef Yulia Sampson, a 30

tell me because it’s a closely guarded Na-

fried items in favor of sustainable boat-to-

year-old Russian immigrant who started

tive American method. But, I’ve had other

plate entrees.

out at the restaurant as a take-out-window

restaurant owners come in and try it and tell

girl when she was 17. Today, she and her

me they can’t believe how good it is.”

Owner Kevin Durfee says the decision has paid off.

“When I took over the place in 1995, our menu was about 80% fried food…[n]ow

husband Leon, a local Narragansett Indian,

Another Native American/native Rhode Is-

have steered George’s in a new, yet tradi-

land ingredient featured at George’s is qua-

tional direction.

hogs. Among the largest and meatiest of the

only four out of 30 menu items are fried, and

“We’ve responded to people who want

eastern seaboard’s bivalves, they were so

we’re busy serving lunch and dinner practi-

to eat healthier and want more sustainable

treasured by the Narragansetts their shells

cally year-round,” he said.

fish,” explained Sampson. So you won’t see

were used for wampum.

Those four surviving deep-fried items in-

ahi tuna—an overfished species—on the

Sampson’s own influence has been the

clude the clam cakes, fried clams (strips and

menu. But, you may be surprised to find

restaurant’s reliance on the freshest local

bellies), and fish and chips that formed the

monkfish braised in garlic, butter and sherry,

ingredients it can procure, which can be as

backbone of George’s original menu back in

served with tomato bacon jam.

easy as a walk across the street considering

the 1930s.

Other surprises include the often over-

George’s location overlooking Block Island

The restaurant began as a beachside

looked green crab (used in the crab and

Sound, gunwale to gunwale with the state’s

food trailer, serving coffee to fishermen in

corn bisque) and skate wing, an ingredient

largest fishing fleet.

the mornings and cooking up their catch for

that Sampson describes as “flakey and de-

hungry tourists in the afternoons. Durfee’s

licious,” which, in recent years, began ap-

paternal grandfather Norman bought the

pearing on five-star menus in New York.

“I literally get fish right off the boats,” she said.

She also looks to the extremely local—as

business in 1948. By then, the eponymous

Thanks to Leon’s influence, George’s also

owner George, whose last name and iden-

offers traditional staples of local Narragansett

Oysters for its boutique Gansett Points

tity are long forgotten, had added a few

cooking, some of which could generally be con-

and Winter Pearls, two breeds of oyster so

tables and a tiny counter. Durfee’s father

sidered less popular—unless cooked right.

fresh and sweet Durfee said, “They taste

Richard expanded the premises when he

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Foodies of New England

“The only bluefish I’ll eat is the bluefish

in within walking distance—Bluff Hill Cove

like a wave.”

In short, it’s not your father’s George’s (nor Durfee’s, let alone his grandfather’s), but this old school/new school seafood establishment remains a Rhode Island classic.

George’s of Galilee is located at 50 Sand Hill Cove Road, Port of Galilee, RI, 02882; Tel. 401.783.2306; www.georgesofgalilee. com; Open daily for lunch and dinner from 11:30am.

Executive Chef Yulia Sampson

Monkfish braised in garlic, butter and sherry, served with tomato bacon jam

Baked Skate with caperberries and garlic mashed potatoes and broccoli

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Fresh local oysters

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Foodies of New England

BEST in CLAM SHACKS

Mac’s

The Quintessential Clam Shack(s) Written by Julie Grady Thomas Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ask anyone with zero ties to New England what makes a clam shack and you’ll probably hear, “I don’t know. Clams?”

Fair play.

But it’s more than just the menu. It’s the nonchalant plating, the weathered shingles on the building, the plastic baskets, the picnic tables, the sound of fishing rods reeling, the ocean views drenched in dusty summer light, the powdery dusting of beach still stuck to your feet, and the sweet briny scent of the sea as it cuts through the night. Not a patron is rushing. There’s laughter everywhere. The crack of a shell, the crunch of fried clams, the call of your number, “Twenty-two!” rings in the air.

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There’s Mac’s on the Pier, the seasonal clam shack where you order at the window for classic New England flavors like steamers, lobster rolls, onion rings, and ice cream, all with a side of an easy summer sunset by the water.

Mac’s Shack, the ironically named seasonal eat-in restaurant and bar, is where updates of old-fashioned favorites and new classics reign, from his grandmother’s cracker-crusted bluefish to grilled oysters to pan-seared halibut served over lobster mashed potatoes with a light saffron lobster broth.

Open year-round, Mac’s Fish House Provincetown is the new, modern, casual restaurant with a sophisticated menu and a big city feel serving up everything from sushi to lobster to pasta alle vongole.

Family, Flavor and Fishermen First At any Mac’s, there’s not much interference with the catch—little to no manipulation. His food philosophy: Let the location and its produce speak for themselves.

“I know what fresh means,” Mac declares with conviction. “Fresh cod on the Cape isn’t the same as it is even in Boston. Think about this way, it’s like eating something fresh out of your garden that you’ve grown yourself versus fresh produce at the grocery store. It’ll just blow you away.”

All this is what makes a classic clam shack. And if you’re still looking, head straight to Mac’s.

Meet Mac Mac Hay is your average guy: grew up in Wellesley, spent summers on the Cape learning to fish and garden with his grandparents, loves the beach, knows how to surf, can throw together some delicious fare.

It just so happens, during his sophomore year in college, he chased his entrepreneurial intuition and opened up Mac’s on the Pier. Twenty-two years later, he owns and operates three eateries and five fish markets down the Cape.

“I’ve always had this entrepreneurial spirit,” Mac admits. “I had a lemonade stand as a kid, then a window-washing business. There was always something on the side.”

But this wasn’t a side business. Under the tutelage of his grandfather, he learned everything that went into sourcing fresh seafood, from catching to cooking. And after years learning the ropes in Cape Cod’s seafood houses, he was in the right place at the right time at

They started buying fresh seafood directly from Cape fishing families. “It wasn’t in style, it was just the way we knew,” he confesses.

Things came to halt when the FDA implemented regulations for the fishing industry that were akin to those of big cattle and big poultry; mom-and-pop shops could no longer buy directly from fisherman.

In order to survive, Mac said you had to be able to afford the newly required expensive equipment that comes with large-scale production.

“We were literally on the pier watching the catch, and we couldn’t touch it,” he says, frustration buzzing through his otherwise relaxed demeanor. “We had to go up to Chatham to get the fish, then back down to our place. I mean, we could see them from our window!”

So, they vertically integrated, i.e. went wholesale.

“It made us stronger. My brother runs the wholesale side and that allows us to have direct contact with the fishermen. Rather than rely on other wholesalers, now we’re processing the products at our own place. We know exactly where everything comes from.”

Whether it’s the Pier, the Shack, or the Fish House you’re guar-

the ripe old age of 20. He was ready.

anteed the freshest of fresh catch. But be warned, if you’re after a

Mac’s on the Pier, Mac’s Shack, and Mac’s Fish House

classic Cape Cod clam shack, there’s no going back once you eat

What do you feel like? Fried clams and ice cream by the sea? Or

at Mac’s.

would you rather sit down with some cocktails at the bar and some sushi? How about Oysters Rockefeller with the uptown ambiance to match?

For Mac, the Cape is where positivity comes to live and breathe and flourish, which is exactly what he seeks to share with patrons.

In any of his three very different, very exquisite eateries, he makes it easy to get fantastic food. The hardest part is choosing.

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Foodies of New England

Mac’s Shack is located at 91 Commercial Street, Wellfleet, MA 02667; Tel. 508.349.6333; CLOSED until mid- to late April.

Mac’s on the Pier is located at 265 Commercial Street, Wellfleet, MA 02667; Tel. 508.349.9611; CLOSED until mid-May. Mac’s Fish House Provincetown is located at 85 Shank Painter Road, Provincetown, MA 02657; Tel. 508.487.6227.

Mac’s Foolproof Rules for Clam Shack Classics at Home Can’t get out to the Cape? Here are Mac’s tips for recreating the flavor at home.

1.

Know

where

(or

from

whom)

you’re buying your seafood. “Establish a relationship with your fishmonger. They’ll direct you to what’s really fresh, what’s good, not some Chinese bay scallop that’s full of waterabsorption products. Learn to trust and rely on them.”

2. Undercook to perfection. “There are way more health benefits this way, and it tastes better. When you undercook slightly, the food retains more nutrients; Provincetown Seafood Stew; fish of the day, calamari, mussels, shrimp, clams, cannelloni beans, smokey tomato broth

it’s the same principle for eating raw vegetables. Raw is better! But, some seafood you’ll want to cook through, just stick to the medium rare side.”

Lobster Salad Roll; 4 oz hand picked lobster meat, celery, lemon aioli Pan Seared Scallops, rosemary parsnips two ways, prosciutto gremolata

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Healthy at Home

Recipes by Elaine Pusateri Cowan Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

www.theuxlocale.com Elaine strives to create beauty everyday. Whether sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designing interiors, preparing appetizers or entrees and even refinishing furniture or making art, she always looks to satiate her appetite for all things artistic.

As an artist and administrator of the arts, foodie, interior designer and gardener, Elaine believes in the quality of sustainable life, not just living well. Her strong sense of duty to integrate such sustainability into every aspect of domestic life begins with perhaps the most basic of all elements: diet. She believes that anyone with a stocked pantry and local produce can whip up quick, fresh and delicious meals every night.

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Foodies of New England

Wild About Saffron Nantucket, June 27, 1994 – My husband and I debarked the ferry from Hyannis wearing matching khaki shorts and Nantucket teeshirts (total dorks). It was day one of our honeymoon.

We were kids—not really, but close enough—and for the first time we were playing the role of adults together. It was a fantastic week: first class accommodations at the Jared Coffin House, eating scrumptious meals every night.

There’s always that one unforgettable meal, enjoyed al fresco by the flicker of candlelight, that, if I squeeze my eyes shut, I can still taste. For me, that dish will always be the cioppino we had at a restaurant called (drum roll) Cioppino.

Fast-forward to today...

For the first time, I’m writing this column as the proud owner and chef de cuisine of my very own restaurant, The UXLocale. And, as I’ve said before, my passion and love for epicure is driven by the unforgettable moments surrounding that first bite.

So, what does all this have to do with saffron and cioppino?

Well, there would be no recipe if there were no honeymoon, and there certainly would be no restaurant if it weren’t for my husband.

When I was twenty-four, I had never tasted saffron. Definitely not a fixture in my spice cabinet, it eluded me until my honeymoon. But once I tasted it in the cioppino, I became obsessed—think Steve Martin’s revelation in the 1979 movie The Jerk, when his character Navin jumps out of bed upon hearing the music on the radio, “If this is out there, think of how much more is out there!”

Saffron’s flavor profile is spicy, pungent and bitter. Still, add a few threads to the sweet, clammy broth of cioppino and you have a kaleidoscope of flavor that, between the acidity of the tomatoes and the brightness of the fennel, somehow really works.

The best part? It’s super easy to make; all you do is chop, chop, chop. (Can you guess how it got its name?) Cioppino is actually an Italian-American dish. With origins in San Francisco, this stew is made from leftover bits of fish and other seafood.

Feel free to change the fish or clams according to your preferences. Many recipes call for firm fish, but I rather enjoy the way a fresh piece of cod flakes away. And, remember to sop up every bit with a crusty chunk of Italian bread.

Make a batch of this for someone you love, dine al fresco, light a candle, and enjoy a summer breeze.

If you want to visit us at The UXLocale, we’re located at 510 Hartford Avenue West, Uxbridge, MA 01569; for more information, visit www.theuxlocale.com.

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Cioppino with Saffron Cooking time: approximately 1 hour Ingredients: 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 large fennel bulb, diced 1 Spanish onion, chopped 3 large shallots, chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons of kosher salt 4 large garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes, plus more to taste 1 (6 oz.) can tomato paste 3 large heirloom tomatoes, diced 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 3 cups fish stock 2 cups clam juice 1 bay leaf 3 threads of saffron 1 lb. cherrystone clams (smaller quahogs) 1 lb. mussels, scrubbed 1 lb. uncooked large shrimp, cleaned 1 1/2 cod, cut into 2-inch chunks Directions: 1.

Over medium heat, heat the oil in a Dutch oven, then add the fennel, onion, shallots and salt.

SautĂŠ until the onions are translucent (approximately 10 minutes).

2. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sautĂŠ

(approximately 2 minutes).

3. Stir in the tomato paste (approximately 1 minute).

4.

Add the tomatoes, wine, fish stock, clam juice, saffron and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer for approximately 30 minutes.

5. Add the clams and mussels. Cover and cook until

the clams and mussels begin to open (approximately

5 minutes).

6.

Add the shrimp and fish. Simmer gently until the fish and shrimp are cooked through and the clams are completely open. Stir gently for about 5 more minutes. Then, discard any clams or mussels that do no open.

7. Season and serve with crusty Italian bread.

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FUN FACT Did you know?

That according to a recent survey by Esquire Magazine, 93% of Americans pick up and read magazines an average of 43 minutes a day.

Still think you can get that much exposure from a billboard or the web?

Try advertising with us and savor the rewards!

Foodies of New England

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Foodies of New England

at Tantasqua The Cornerstone CafĂŠ is the student run restaurant at Tantasqua Regional High School located at 319 Brookfield Road, Fiskdale, MA Open: Wednesday, Thursday and Friday when school is in session, 10:30 am - 12:30 pm Our menu selections change weekly and can be found on the school website at www.tantasqua.org Choose Cornerstone CafĂŠ from the left side menu We can also be reached by calling 508-347-9301 ext. 0915 or ext. 5161

Join us for lunch and let us treat your taste buds!

Sweet Sensations

Written by Lina Bifano Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

An avid cook and mother of two, Lina Bifano values the importance of home-cooked meals for her family. She understands that time constraints and children’s schedules can often dictate how a family eats—so she develops strategies that allow her family to still enjoy delicious, healthy meals, even at a moment’s notice. Her travels throughout Italy and France have been the inspiration for all of her recipes and Lina has incorporated those ideas into modern, familyfriendly fare. The desserts she creates— with sophisticated flavors that can be easily achieved by anyone—give even the novice home cook the opportunity to wow family and friends alike.

Wild Strawberries and a Fresh Fruit Tart

I

f you’ve never tried a wild strawberry, then go find some as soon as possible.

Seriously, close this magazine right now and go find some wild strawberries.

Just make sure to come back and read it cover-to-cover later.

You’ll know they’re wild because they won’t look like your run-of-the-mill super-

market strawberries. Some of them may look deformed or stunted, and they’re usually sold in much smaller quantities than their commercially grown cousins. Plus, they’re a bit more expensive, but trust me; they’re well worth it.

All strawberries used to be wild. They grew every summer and had a very short shelf life; when they were gone you wouldn’t see them again until the next year.

As growers realized the year-round demand, they began to cross wild strawberries with other varieties. This yielded a much larger, more uniform, hardier fruit. Yet what growers gained in marketability, consumers paid for in taste.

Nowadays, it’s common to find strawberries anytime, even in the dead of winter. And they look like strawberries; they’re shaped like strawberries; they last at least a week in your fridge, but they don’t always taste like strawberries. It’s hard to tell if they’re fresh or not. You just don’t know what kind of fruit you’ll get until you go home and try one.

The clamshell packaging most growers use for their strawberries makes it almost impossible to really tell if your fruit is fresh and tasty, and opening it to rummage around is frowned upon.

I found that the best way to pick good strawberries is by using your sense of smell.

Pick up the package and really smell them; if you can’t smell anything, don’t buy them.

Good strawberries smell like good strawberries.

A great dessert that uses strawberries and pairs well with anything from burgers to clambakes is a good fruit tart. Unfortunately, not everyone has had positive experiences with this delicious dessert, and for good reason.

Different bakers make their crust and cream differently, and depending on where it’s purchased, a store-bought fruit tart can range from a cake-like crust with plain custard cream to a rock-hard cookie crust with flavorful cream. Either way you might find the fruit covered in such a thick layer of gelatin you can actually taste it. But, this all happens for one obvious reason: pastries need a shelf life. continued on page 108

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Any dessert with cream touching crust can only stay fresh for

Crust

about two days and must be refrigerated. Add cut fruit to the equa-

(makes 3)

tion and you can reduce the shelf life by half.

Ingredients:

I have some tricks to make a fruit tart last longer without com-

3 Sticks unsalted butter, softened

promising the recipe or the integrity of the dessert, just give yourself

1 Cup ground pecans

a few extra minutes of prep time right before you have to serve it.

1 1/2 Cups confectioners sugar, sifted

First, create a barrier between the tart and cream by evenly

1/2 tsp. salt

spreading a thin layer of dark chocolate over the crust and let it

1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

harden. Don’t add the cream until it’s time to walk out the door, and

2 Large eggs, beaten

always cut the fruit fresh.

3 to 4 Cups all purpose flour, sifted

Although there’s a bit of prep work, my recipe triples the dough so you can freeze it and defrost as needed.

Experiment with different flavors in your cream or different fruits, and as a finishing touch, either sprinkle powdered sugar atop the fruit or use an apricot jam glaze over the top to give it a shiny finish.

After you’ve made it once or twice, you’ll never go back to storebought again!

A Fruit Tart in 3 Parts Pastry Cream (adapted from a recipe by Chef Chad Pagano) Ingredients: 2 Cups milk 2/3 Cup sugar 2 Egg yolks 1 Whole egg 3 Tbsp. Cornstarch 1/4 Stick (or 2 Tbsp.) butter 1 Tbsp. Grand Marnier™ (or any other tasty liqueur) Directions: 1. In a large pot over low heat, dissolve the first 1/3 cup of sugar into the milk and bring to a boil—be careful not to scorch. Remove from heat.

2. In a separate medium bowl, mix the eggs with the cornstarch and the remaining 1/3 cup of sugar.

Beat constantly until smooth.

3. In a steady, thin stream, slowly pour the milk mixture into the egg mixture. **Use a hand mixer to beat while you pour, and be sure to pour slowly or the eggs will cook.

4.

Pour it all back into the pot and, using a hand mixer, continue to mix over low heat. The mixture should boil and become thick and turn lemon yellow in color.

Once this happens, remove from heat.

5. Stir in the butter and liqueur. You can also use vanilla

108

extract or another flavoring of your choice.

Foodies of New England

Directions: 1. In a mixing bowl, beat the butter and sugar until smooth.

2. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and add all remaining ingredients except for the flour.

3. Slowly add the flour (you might not need all 4 cups) until the mixture comes together like a cookie dough.

It should be soft but not at all crumbly. **Top tip: Sift the flour over a large paper plate first, then bend the sides of the plate and use that to pour it into the mixture; it gives you more control so you can pinpoint the moment you reach the perfect consistency.

4. Divide the dough into thirds (each crust takes 1/3 of the dough). Place the portion you’ll work with in a plastic zipper bag and refrigerate for 3 hours. Freeze the other two portions.

Baking & Assembly Ingredients: 50g dark chocolate (100g for a thicker layer) 2 Tbsp. Apricot jam 2 Tbsp. Warm water 1. Preheat oven to 350ÂşF. 2. On a floured surface, roll out the chilled dough into a circle approximately 1/4-inch thick.

3. Lay the dough over the tart pan (there is no need for greasing). Push the dough into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Trim the excess. Using a fork, poke holes across the bottom and sides.

4. Bake for approximately 20 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. (Traditionally, you could also do this by laying a piece of parchment over the crust and filling with dried beans or pie beadsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;either way works.)

5. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for a few minutes.

6. While the tart crust is cooling, melt some good quality dark chocolate (I like Leonidas 70% Dark Cocoa bars). Spread a thin layer over the entire crust. Let the crust and chocolate cool and harden before removing from the tart pan.

7. When ready, remove the tart from the pan, fill with cream, and cover with sliced fresh fruit.

8. In a small bowl, mix 2 tablespoons of apricot jam with 2 tablespoons of warm water. Gently brush over the top of the tart for a shiny finish.

You can also choose to sprinkle powdered sugar on the tart for a more rustic look. Enjoy!

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Brew Review

Mustache Collaborative

The

Written by Matt Jones Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

C

old Harbor Brewing is a newly opened (September 2015) brewery and taproom in Westborough, Massachusetts on Route 135. The name of the brewery derives from the Cold Harbor Brook that winds its way through Northborough, eventually joining the Assabet River. At one time the entire area was dominated by small farms and local mills. They offer several seasonal brews and are already starting to establish some tap room favorites. For the IPA cultists, there’s

always more than one offering, but I think they really shine when they experiment with other ales, porters, and stouts. Local distribution of half- and full-sized growlers has kicked off at a few liquor stores, notably Julio’s Liquors.

I’ve visited the brewery twice. The second time I went back to try their new stout, created to celebrate the 250th Anniversary of the Town of Northborough’s founding as

Matthew Jones is a curmudgeon

a distinct district of Marlborough. John Parks at Armeno’s Coffee Roasters of North-

and a crusader for a world of

borough collaborated with Cold Harbor, giving them access to his phenomenal cold

quality and originality. He has spent

brewed 250th Anniversary Blend coffee to balance out their first stout, the “Mustache”.

the last 25 years restoring books, documents maps and globes.

When he is not teaching Japanese

The coffee is added after the initial fermentation process and you can smell and taste it. This is a classic, rich, toasty dark beer, offset by bright floral hops. At the first sip, the hops dominate, but as your taste buds adjust, the duality of this brew becomes apparent. The addition of the coffee mellows and softens the palate, rounding out the

martial arts or climbing mountains,

bitter hops, lending richness and some sweetness to the beer. After a few sips and a

chances are he will be testing out

bit of time to warm up (odd I know), the creaminess we come to expect from an oat-

the merits of best brewed or

meal stout stands out. I find the chocolate notes often attributed to this style of beer

distilled libations.

apparent in the nose but lacking on the finish, but this is not a deal breaker. At 5.8 ABV you should sip this strong beer slowly, and savor it. To get a proper pour you’ll need to make a trip to the tap room, but aside from a short-lived head, the growlers offer a great way to take this regional treat home to share. I am curious as to the percentage of oats to barley and hope for a dash of rye down the road. Rumors of a future offering of this style of stout may include blackberry. Another great reason for a return trip! I won’t give away the number of patrons with mustaches and beards I saw sipping this concoction at the tap room, but it was more than one.

Visit them on the web at: www.coldharborbrewing.com or follow them on Facebook and Twitter.

Also visit Northborough’s website dedicated to the ongoing events celebrating their 250th Anniversary at: www.northborough250.org And, Armeno’s at: www.armeno.com/store

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Coming in the next issue of Foodies of New England!

A True Bistro

Hard Ciders

Culinary Kids

For the freshest, most local, and most organic dining experience you can have, there’s only one place:

The Twisted Fork.

509 Stafford Street • Cherry Valley, MA 01611 • 508-892-5437 www.unclejaystwistedfork.com Reservations are recommended

Spotlight on local chefs

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Foodies of New England

Advertise with Foodies of New England 508-479-1171

finds Grillos Pickles Grillo’s Pickles began simply with a pickle cart, just a small wooden stand in downtown Boston, where Travis Grillo and his friends would sell two spears for one dollar.

Travis would make the pickles by night using his family’s 100-year old recipe - one he’d memorized from making pickles every summer as a kid. Then, in the morning, Travis would bike to the Boston Common and set up the cart with his buddies. They’d hang out all day, urging people to try the simple Grillo family pickle. It was a small business, but Travis worked hard for it. He made more pickles, biked more miles, and slept less hours than he ever had before.

Before he knew it, Whole Foods Markets and the Boston Red Sox asked to feature the pickles. Others promptly followed. Today, Grillo’s Pickles are available in grocery stores across the country. Even so, not much has changed.

At its core, the company will always be Travis and his buddies spreading the word about these awesome pickles, just like years ago in the Boston Common. The pickle itself hasn’t changed, either. It’s still garden-fresh, all-natural, and refreshingly delicious. We think it’s the best pickle in the world.

Check out our website!

GrillosPickles.com Like us on Facebook!

^ Do you have a New England based food product or cook book you’d like to see on the pages of Foodies Magazine? Learn more here: www.foodiesofnewengland.com.

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Redefining the

LOBSTER ROLL Written by Kelley Lynn Kassa Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

F

ew New Englanders would think to “riff” on our food classics: chowder must be white and made with cream (unless you are in/from Rhode Island); pancake syrup cannot be substituted for real maple syrup; and lobster rolls come on top-loading, grilled hot dog buns, filled with lobster mixed with a small amount of mayonnaise (or drizzled with hot butter, if you are from Connecticut). So it took two mid-western transplants to take the lobster roll far beyond mayo and butter.

Just a few years ago Sarah and Karl Sutton were living in Minneapolis, facing a job-related move to New York City. But the idea just didn’t appeal to them. “We did have East Coast fantasies,” says Sarah Sutton. “But we wanted to do something different—not just work the same type of jobs in a different location.

“We discovered Maine and fell in love with it,” continues Sarah.

“Even though we didn’t know a soul there, we decided to move to greater Portland.” Lucky for us they did.

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Today, Sarah and Karl are the owners, chefs, and creative drive behind Bite Into Maine, a small food truck located seasonally in the Fort Williams Park in Cape Elizabeth, near the Portland Head Light. The Suttons were one of just a handful of businesses that bid on an opportunity to run a food cart at the park—the first in modern history. The good news is they won the bid; the bad news was they had just two scant months to design their “hot-dog stand”-sized food truck, create an image and look that was locationappropriate, and determine their menu.

“The first day we ate more lobster rolls than we sold,” says Karl. “After some trials and errors, we’ve pared down the menu— mostly just eliminating hot dogs. Today we offer a variety of lobster rolls, a vegetarian

ditional Maine lobster roll and topped with a

sandwich, sides, desserts, and soft drinks.”

light dusting of celery salt.

Traditionalists will be more than happy

And then there are those other rolls—the

with what Bite Into Maine offers visitors to

ones few native New Englanders would

the Portland Head Light. Their Maine-style

think to create but that are beloved by the

lobster roll is fresh (never frozen) lobster

thousands upon thousands of visitors to

meat tossed lightly with mayonnaise and

Fort Williams Park. The Sutton’s first “new”

chives. Those who love Southern New Eng-

style lobster roll was the wasabi lobster roll.

land’s approach to lobster rolls can have the

“We felt it was a natural,” says Sarah. “Was-

Connecticut-style, which comes with hot

abi pairs well with seafood. So why not with

butter. Those who want to try something

lobster?”

new but not too adventurous can opt for the

The wasabi lobster roll is, perhaps, not

picnic-style coleslaw on the bottom of a tra-

what you’d expect. It’s not a “punch you in

“There are three great icons of Maine – lighthouses, the ocean, and lobster rolls.”

continued on page 116

Summer 2016

115

the face” mix of lobster meat and wasabi. Rather, the Suttons take a light hand with the wasabi. Just as the traditional Maine lobster roll is lightly coated with mayonnaise, the wasabi roll just offers the right level of wasabi flavor, with minimal heat. The same can be said for the curry lobster roll and the chipotle lobster roll, the Sutton’s next two new interpretations.

Bite Into Maine is not just the place that visitors stop at while they are touring the oldest light house in Maine. The food truck, open April through October (depending on weather), has many regulars from the greater Portland area. In fact, they now offer a Frequent Buyers Card. Whether you are a visitor or a regular, from here or from away, the lobster rolls at Bite Into Maine must be part of your Maine experience.

“There are three great icons of Maine – lighthouses, the ocean, and lobster rolls,” says Karl. “We’re extremely lucky to be able to offer our guests all three at the same time.

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Foodies of New England

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Magazine

Whiskey

Under Loch & Key

Written by Ryan Maloney Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ryan Maloney has over twenty five years experience in the spirits industry. He is the founder of The Loch & K(e)y Society and the creator of www.lochandkey.com a forum based whisk(e)y website.

Ryan was just inducted into the Keeper of the Quaich Society in Scotland, one of whisky’s highest honors. He can also be heard on WCRN AM830 on his radio show “It’s The Liquor Talking”. However, Ryan is most recognized as the owner of Julio’s Liquors in Westborough MA, where amongst other accolades he has been three times awarded “Retailer of the Year”.

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Foodies of New England

It’s Summertime and the Drinkin’ Is Easy In the past, during the hot summer months, many whisk(e)y drinkers would switch to white spirits such as gin and vodka. But today, brown spirit drinkers are sticking with it year-round.

This doesn’t mean that you can’t mix it up as the thermometer rises.

When the heat bears down, I drink less straight-up whisk(e)y and instead indulge in whisk(e)y with ice or whisk(e)y-based cocktails. I also tend to branch out with international whisk(e)y, especially if they’re light yet still full of flavor. Many fit the bill, but here are three of my favorites.

Canadian Whisky with Forty Creek Barrel Select As the days heat up and I want to cool down, I turn to whiskey from our friendly neighbors up north.

There are quite a few good Canadian whiskies available now in the US, but I’m partial to the first real Canadian whisky I had—that was actually made by a Canadian—Forty Creek Barrel Select made by John Hall.

Hall was a wine maker by trade, so when he wanted to make whisky and didn’t have sherry barrels in which to age it, he made sherry. Then he made great whisky to put in those barrels.

Barrel Select is made of six to10 year-old single grain rye, corn and barley whiskies, each made separately then blended together and finished in the aforementioned sherry barrels. continued on page 120

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119

This 80 proof, golden-colored whisky has a nose of caramelized wood mixed with mocha and vanilla, plus hints of orange marmalade. Once you taste it, the flavors are creamy—almost rich—with sweet spices and dark fruits or berries. The finish is dry with long flavors of spice and a bit of cassis at the very end. In the summer, one of my favorite ways to enjoy it is in a cocktail called The Old Pal.

The Old Pal Ingredients: 1 oz. Forty Creek Barrel Select 1 oz. Dolin dry vermouth 1 oz. Campari Orange peel for garnish Directions: 1. Add all ingredients to a mixing glass with ice.

Stir for 30 seconds.

2. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with an

orange twist.

Side note: I know I said it was a single grain whiskey then named two grains; the malted barley is used to start the fermentation process, which would be difficult if there were only corn. In fact, many distilleries need additional enzymes to break the corn down to get it to ferment. Using a small amount of malted barley is a more natural way to achieve this, and thus it is still considered a single grain whiskey.

The distilled spirit is first aged for three and a half years in bourbon barrels, then again in oloroso sherry casks for six months.

This two-barrel process gives Double Barrel its name.

It’s bright gold in color with aromas of kettle corn and toasted nuts. On the palate, a combination of dates, light citrus and sweet grain give way to a sustained finish of nuts and ginger. A cocktail I love to enjoy this whiskey in is the St. Kevin Sling (borrowed from Ezra Star of Drink in Boston—www.drinkfortpoint.com).

St. Kevin Sling Ingredients: 1 1/2 oz. Glendalough Double Barrel 1/2 oz. Fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz. Pierre Ferrand dry curaçao 1/4 oz .Grenadine 4 Dashes Orange Bitters Soda water Long lemon swirl for garnish

Glendalough Double Barrel: Renegade Irish Whiskey

Directions: 1. Add whiskey, juice, curaçao, grenadine and bitters to

a shaker with ice. Shake.

forefather’s). Four years old, from a corn and malted barley mash-

2. Strain into a highball glass filled with ice. Top up with

soda water.

bill, Glendalough Double Barrel is an 84 proof, non-chill filtered,

3. Wrap lemon swirl around the inside of the glass.

This Irish whiskey is definitely not my father’s (or in this case, my

single grain whiskey.

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Foodies of New England

To Japan & Back with Nikka Coffey Grain Don’t be misled: this 90 proof, Japanese, single grain whisky isn’t made from coffee, but corn (with a little help from barley, like the Glendalough).

“Coffey” refers to Aeneas Coffey’s continuous distillation still, invented in the early to mid-1800s and used here by Nikka.

This type of still produces whisky faster and more economically than pot stills, and most grain whiskies are made in this fashion.

While some believe continuous still whiskies are an inexpensive way to make whiskies used for blends, other (smarter) whisk(e)y drinkers recognize the flavors and qualities of single grains that can only be achieved through this method.

Trust me, nothing cheap goes into producing this whisky. Nikka takes the finest quality ingredients and utmost care to create what I like to refer to as my Japanese Bourbon. While there are some similarities to typical bourbon flavor profiles, I’m really giving a nod to the versatility of this whisky in deference to its American cousin.

Its aroma centers on vanilla with biscuit and hints of pear or melon. On the palate it’s sweet and reveals even more melon alongside the ever-present vanilla. The swallow finishes warm with more vanilla, but those hints of pear/melon read more like apple here.

On a hot day, I like this whisky very simple: two ounces over ice, in a highball, topped up with two ounces of cold club soda. However recently, Kelly McCarthy, the brand development manager for Nikka’s importer Anchor Distilling, got me hooked on a cocktail called Coffey Buck, and it’s prefect for summer.

Coffey Buck Ingredients: 2 oz. Nikka Coffey Grain 1/2 oz. Lemon juice Ginger beer Lemon wheel as garnish Directions: 1. In a glass, over ice, add lemon juice to the whisky. Top up with ginger beer.

2. Garnish with lemon wheel.

So, start drinking whisk(e)y this summer, or continue drinking it. These are a few choices to get you going, but experiment and find your own. Mix things up by adding whisk(e)y to a favorite cocktail; I know substituting the rum in a mojito with a light single malt makes a great drink.

Try something different and, remember, there’s never a bad day for good whisk(e)y!

Summer 2016

121

Wines of Distinction

Chardonnay Showdown!

California’s Oaky Umph v. Chablis’ Crisp Finesse

Written by Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

W

ho doesn’t enjoy summer? And who doesn’t love to sip a cool glass of crisp, refreshing, and flavorful white wine out on the deck or as an accompaniment to a nice, light, tasty dinner in the middle of summer? The truth is that a bright, intensely fragrant and fruit-

driven white wine can be your best friend on a hot, muggy New England day.

But, which wine to choose? That’s the age-old question, and its answer depends on answers to many other questions, such as: Do I like oaky wine with sweet vanilla notes, or do I like crisp, quenching, brightly-

Known in restaurant circles as The Wine Guy, Domenic is focused on food and wine education.

Domenic’s enthusiasm and passion for food and wine, propelled him into a local TV wine education series, The Wine Guy, in which he took viewers on a tour of California and

fruited wines?

Am I serving a dish that matches the wine’s flavor profiles of oak and vanilla, or would it be easier to choose a Chardonnay that seems to just ‘go with everything’?

Do I prefer traditional wines that taste more like the fruit borne from the earth, versus a wine whose flavor has been augmented using oak barrels and other methods?

Consider also each wine’s production methods and origins. An American Chardonnay such as Kendall-Jackson (“KJ”), for example, is fermented in French and American 60-gallon oak barrels, which, according to KJ, results in a creamy texture and provides subtle toasty oak and spicy flavors to the finished wine.

In addition, KJ implements a malolactic fermentation process that reduces the level

Italy’s wine regions and historic

of citric acid, thus giving the appearance of a softer, less crisp wine. And, since KJ is

destinations.

produced en masse using grapes from many different properties in California, wine-

In addition to being the editor and

makers must blend large batches and lots of Chardonnay after fermentation in an effort

publisher of Foodies of New England magazine, Dom is the host of Foodies of New England, a dynamic and educational TV show. The show

to attain product semblance and consistency, bottle to bottle.

Crafted in a different fashion, Chablis is commonly described as being built for New England summers (and the New England lifestyle), since Chablis’ climatic conditions are not unlike those of New England.

Chablis wines are created using the Chardonnay grape varietal found only in the

features New England’s best,

Chablis region of Burgundy, France. In this regard, Chablis is a very proprietary wine

award-winning chefs, and their

and observes the highest of government restrictions concerning origin and production

signature recipes.

methods. The result of this serious level of winemaking is a stable, consistent quality offering intensely stony, mineral, and crisp nectar qualities that European Chardonnay drinkers seek out on a regular basis – mostly because of need to pair the wine with traditional European foods.

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Foodies of New England

Chardonnay, KJ is crafted just a bit differently than traditional Chardonnay hailing from the motherland of Chablis. Ladies and gentlemen of the foodie jury, I submit to you that there is no clearer example of taste and identity variance based on terroir than in the historical case of California v. Chablis.

In this landmark dispute, I refer to the explosive popularity of Chardonnay perpetrated by the capable hands of winemakers like KJ, who commenced planting and production of Chardonnay throughout the various microclimates of California, masking Chardonnay’s steely, clean, mineral, stony, citrusy, and vibrantly bright personality with overwhelming elements of butter, viscosity, oak, vanilla, and toast.

The accusation: California is guilty of identity theft, having stolen Chardonnay’s unmistakably French persona from its home of Chablis and having absconded with its true In essence, Chablis is the mother of all

All of this discussion concerning regions

heritage and beauty. It is incumbent upon

Chardonnay-producing wine regions across

and climates means one thing - terroir is

you, o foodie jury, to hear these accusations

the world; it is steeped in heritage and tra-

vital. The origin of any wine speaks vol-

and taste the popular American evidence

dition and is well-known as the source of

umes as to its heritage, taste characteris-

(we submit Exhibit “A”: Kendall-Jackson

some of France’s best wines. As mentioned

tics, authenticity, and longevity in the hearts

Vintner’s Reserve).

before, the climate resembles that of New

and minds (and on the palates) of serious

Before you complete your deliberation,

England, so with hot summers and cold,

wine drinkers the world over. As a wine of

the prosecution would like to also submit

harsh winters, Chablis vintners need to re-

extreme popularity and widespread accep-

Exhibit “B” for contrast and clarification:

sort to using warming mechanisms like

tance, Chardonnay (the grape used to make

Domaine Des Malandes Cuvée Amandine.

smudge pots – also called orchard heaters –

Chablis) has been altered and reconfigured

Please note, foodies, the summation of

to prevent damage from spring frost, which

hundreds of ways since its birth, especially

differences outlined below between Ken-

can and does take place in the Chablis re-

when a winemaker decides to replant it in a

dall Jackson (CA) and Chablis Cuvée

gion, even into the month of May.

very different region. A perfectly well-made

Amandine (FR): continued on page 124

Summer 2016

123

Texture: Kendall-Jackson (CA) – buttery Chablis Cuvée Amandine (FR) – crisp, acidic Taste: Kendall-Jackson (CA) – vanilla Chablis Cuvée Amandine (FR) – citrus green apple & yellow pear Aroma: Kendall-Jackson (CA) – oak & spice Chablis Cuvée Amandine (FR) – minerals & shells Finish: Kendall-Jackson (CA) – toast & wood Chablis Cuvée Amandine (FR) – clean, crisp white peach, & bright acidity So, after sifting through the evidence composed of the characteristics of both new-world California Chardonnay (KendallJackson) and old-world, traditional Chardonnay (Chablis Cuvée Amandine), what is your verdict?

Our verdict here at Foodies of New England is clear: Beyond a shadow of a doubt, and with a preponderance of the evidence, we submit that Chablis Cuvée Amandine, with all its tradition, heritage, and originality, is the superior Chardonnay. Further, we maintain that Cuvée Amandine is a much more friendly and accommodating food (and foodie) companion, as it does not challenge the culinary integrity of a chef’s dish, unlike the sometimes-overpowering personality of oaked Chardonnays, the likes of California’s Kendall-Jackson.

Yes, we maintain that

crisp, clean, and citrusy trumps viscous, creamy, and oaky.

Domaine Des Malandes Chablis Cuvée Amandine is available in fine wine shops throughout New England – simply ask.

FNE gives Domaine Des Malandes Chablis Cuvée Amandine 92 points: Traditional, masterfully-crafted Chardonnay for sipping or dining.

-FNE.

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Foodies of New England

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Summer 2016

125

Liberating Libations

Traveling Cocktails

A

“Traveling cocktail” is a craft cocktail that can be transported to your favorite camping spot, concert, fishing hole, vacation destination or even a friend’s party. Too many times do we sacrifice quality when we step outside our comfort box of our home or favorite local watering hole. I

don’t want to say without these cocktails you won’t enjoy yourself, but in my opinion it creates the opportunity for you and your company to enhance your experience.

It’s best to stick to more standard cocktails with just booze—juices, fruit, carbonated Written by Adam Gerhart Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

beverages, and dairy products can spoil, go flat, or clog the tap line. Some ingredients that are batched or stored in kegs, barrels, and coolers will change based on their environment, so attention to detail is a must when you use multiple ingredients. Things can taste one way when you shake them but settle differently when you put them on

Adam Gerhart has been bartend-

tap or let them age. The longer something sits, the more it will affect the flavor. A lot

ing since he was 17. Growing up

of cocktail experts have been aging cocktails like the Manhattan and the Negroni in

in upstate New York along the Hudson River, he worked his way up from washing dishes in the res-

small white oak barrels. This allows the flavor of the cocktail to change by absorbing the flavors of the wood, bringing the flavor of the drink to new levels. While the cocktail is aging the wood actually flexes or breathes with the change of temperature and humidity. This allows the spirits to be absorbed and then released to gain complexity and

taurant industry and worked in all

character based on the type of wood. Different barrels add different notes. TO make

positions a restaurant has to

this idea travel-friendly, try a mason jar. Use Jack Daniels oak wood smoking chips as

offer. Adam feels that learning-by-

a substitute by letting them soak in your spirit or cocktail for about 3-4 weeks, agitat-

doing is the best training method,

ing every 5 days or so, in a cool dark place. This takes a little more prep time but the

and considers it a very big reason for his success.

results are worth the wait and fun to experiment with. So we will start with a standard Manhattan. This will keep the longest because like the Negroni, it’s all alcohol. You can use individual mason jars, a pitcher, a thermos, or even an empty pasta sauce jar. Add

Making a guest’s experience

for one drink, 2 oz. of Bourbon, 1 oz. of Sweet Vermouth, and a dash of bitters. Seal

memorable and giving them a quality

the jar and when you’re ready to drink it, simply add ice and a cherry and shake (or sip).

drink is where Adam’s passion lies.

Adam believes that, if he and the people around him are having fun, it’s not work. He also feels

Presto, a Manhattan fireside in the middle of the woods. Another bonus of making it in advance is that you can pour precisely, so your drinks will come out properly. Next let’s try something a little more complex. I call it Patriot Punch, a twist on a Rum Runner.

These can be made in individual mason jars or in a pitcher. Line up your mason jars and in each, pour ¾ oz. Captain Morgan spiced rum, ½ oz. Malibu coconut rum, ¾ oz. any

passionate about turning someone’s

silver or gold rum. Then add 1 oz. of orange juice, 1 oz. of pineapple juice, ½ oz. sour

day around by putting exactly what

mix, and a dash of grenadine. Now because these have juice in them, they will need to

they want in front of them, and

be stored in a cooler for a day trip, but if the travel is minimal, they should be fine. Seal

creating that special drink that makes them say, “Wow.”

up the jar, safely pack them away upright, and when you get to your destination, add ice and shake. You can bring fruit and add it when you open it, though I find that the rind can sometimes add a bitter flavor if it sits too long in the mix. You can also bring a small bottle of dark rum such as Myers to do a floater after the ice has been added.

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Foodies of New England

Vodka or tequila infusions are also a travel cocktail option. Jalapenos, Wood Chips, Cinnamon, some of these will still give your spirit a twist even if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only for just the drive (though if you have time, 3 days in a mason jar will do nicely). Just give it a few shakes from here to there. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an example: Add two slices of jalapeno and two slices of cucumbers to 2 oz. of silver tequila, and it will be ready for consumption upon arrival. Just add ice, fresh lime and lemon juice, and shake.

The possibilities are endless. You decide how much work you want to prep for, or how much stuff you are willing to pack with you. Just remember that sometimes keeping it simple is the best way to relax while on the go, and certain ingredients will change the cocktail the longer it sits in it. Plus the preparation really pays off when all you want to do is relax and have a drink.

As always, please enjoy responsibly. Cheers.

Recipes on page 128

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127

All Ready To Go Aged Manhattan 2 Servings

Strawberry Basil Cucumber Lemon Vodka

In a Mason jar: Fill half the jar with Jack Daniels Whiskey Barrel

About 3 Servings

Smoking chips (Can be found at most major hardware stores)

Cut up 6 Strawberries, A Handful of Basil, Half of a Lemon

Pour 5 oz. of bourbon (I recommend Bulleit Rye)

sliced and 4 Cucumber slices

2 oz. Sweet vermouth

Put all in a Mason Jar and add 8 oz. of vodka

8 dashes of bitters (Angostura or Orange Bitters) (my favorite:

Give it a good couple shakes and let sit for one day.

Blood Orange Bitters)

Strain all ingredients out using coffee filter or cheese cloth and seal

Seal tight with Mason jar lid and let sit for 3 to 4 weeks giving it a

up mason jar. Now your cocktail is ready to travel, just bring some

gentle shake every 5 days.

garnishes of the fresh ingredients and drink over ice or with soda

After 3 to 4 weeks, strain out all wood chips using a coffee filter or

water. This drink has a shelf life of about a week because of the

cheese cloth. Then your cocktail will be ready for consumption.

When you bring it on your trip, just bring cherries and pour neat or over ice. This cocktail has long shelf life, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait too long.

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Foodies of New England

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