JAN - FEB 2019
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?
MAGAZINE
oMAn BEHIND THE VEIL FIJI AIRWAYS
FESTIVALS OF THE WORLD
BANYAN TREE VABBINFARU
PUBLISHER'S LETTER
W
elcome to another exciting issue of
EXPLORER magazine, the environmentally-friendly
digital travel magazine for true world wanderers.
As with every issue of EXPLORER, we’ve scoured the world in search of new and intriguing travel experiences for travellers of all ages. We start
off with a luxurious Maldivian resort – Banyan
Tree Vabbinfaru – that has a sustainable ethos at its heart, one that’s turning heads and inspiring
guests in the process. In Georgia’s thriving capital,
Tbilisi, one of the most coveted destinations for the year ahead, we sip on wine from some of the first
cultivated winelands in the world, explore ancient fortresses and tap into the city’s contemporary
persona; and in Oman we climb mountains and
make for the beach as we visit two of the Sultanate’s most breathtaking retreats. There’s also time to
grab the kids and head for one of the Pacific’s most family-friendly hideaways, the InterContinental
Fiji Golf Resort & Spa, a unique resort that has a little something for every member of the family.
Of course, we also have all the new openings, the most colourful events, and the most inspiring
photography to help you map out your travels in
the months to come. Wherever you’re headed and
with whomever you’re travelling, we hope Explorer continues to inform and inspire your adventures. Safe Travels
David Leung Publisher
WORLD IN PICS
From mountain peaks to floating market places, these are the travel images captivating our imaginations this season. Photo Captions
1 The US’ Route 66 was recently named the most Instagram-worthy road trip
2 Sun lovers make the most
in the world. Credit: Hertz
of a warm evening on Rio’s Ipanema Beach.
3 Simon Brumby has been
Credit: Student Universe
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named as Swarovski Optik’s Digiscoper of the Year 2018 for his video “Coast, Dune, Forest and Field”. Credit: Swarovski Optik
4 Switzerland remains
famous for its captivating train journeys. Credit: Inghams
5
Towering icebergs and the world's
largest concentration of humpback whales continue to draw travellers to Canada’s St John’s coastline. Credit: Destination St John’s
6
The floating markets
of Bangkok continue to thrill Asia-bound travellers. Credit: Amazing Thailand
7
A climber pauses to
marvel at the peaks of Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park. Credit: Explore
8
Dawn arrives in Olympia, in the
US state of Washington. Credit: Olympia & Beyond
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What’s Happening Envision Festival Rancho La Merced, Costa Rica
February 28 – March 3, 2019 The perfect excuse for a Caribbean escape and a chance to commune with nature, Costa Rica’s Envision Festival takes place where the rainforest meets the ocean. This year’s line-up at the bohemian-meetshipster festival includes Trevor Hall, The Floozies, Killer Diller, Bushman, Bunny Wabbit, and the Lazy Syrup Orchestra, who are complemented by a series of stage performances, yoga sessions and community
Auckland Lantern Festival
initiatives. www.envisionfestival.com
Auckland, New Zealand
February 14-17, 2019
Celebrating its 20th anniversary, the muchloved Auckland Lantern Festival, New Zealand's largest cultural festival, takes place over four days, with over 800 handmade lanterns shining their light in and around the trees and pathways of the Auckland Domain to celebrate the Chinese New Year. From traditional red lanterns to elaborate scenes, the array of colours and intricate paper designs will be a sight to behold. www.aucklandnz.com
Carnival of Binche Binche, Belgium
March 3-5, 2019
A three-day celebration preceding Ash Wednesday, the Unesco-recognised Carnival of Binche is a folkloric event that originated in the 14th century. On Shrove Tuesday, up to a thousand Gilles, dressed in joker costumes, alon with peasants, pierrots and harlequins, paint the streets with colour and start a march to the rhythm of drums and viola along the Grand Place in the early hours. Spare a hand to catch oranges thrown by parade characters for good luck. Pre-carnival activities include drum rehearsals, orchestral performances, and gala balls.
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What’s Happening Arctic Man Classic Alaska, USA
April 9 – 14, 2019 Drawing 13,000 spectators to Fairbanks, Alaska in 2016 alone, Arctic Man is an exciting event in which teams of two, a snowmobiler and a skier, cooperate to finish a unique relay race on the peaks near Summit Lake. This competition, one of the world’s toughest downhill ski races, tests skiers and their partners’ skills to the max as they speed along the mountain flanks and across a 5,800feet snow-covered summit. www.arcticman.com
Byron Bay Bluesfest New South Wales, Australia
April 18 – 22, 2019
Drawing over 100,000 music lovers to the New South Wales coastal town, Byron Bay Bluesfest is a five-day multi-cultural extravaganza presenting 200 performances across six stages and provides a spectacular camping site for music-loving travellers. This year’s line-up includes Jack Johnson, Iggy Pop, Hozier and David Gray. Grab a beer at one of the five bars before drowning yourself in a week of sensational live music. www.bluesfest.com.au
Splashy Fen Festival South Africa
April 18 - 22, 2019 Established in 1990, Splashy Fen is South Africa’s longest-running music festival, which every Easter attracts thousands of people to a farm near Underberg, KwaZulu-Natal for a unique outdoor music experience. Also present are arts and crafts stalls, food and drink outlets, crèche and children’s entertainment programme, as well as various camping and accommodation options. www.splashyfen.co.za
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NEWS Magic’s in the Air A spell is being cast and wands are being waved over a suite at Melbourne’s The Windsor, transforming it into a fantastical dwelling for witches and wizards. The Wizard’s Suite will be unveiled in February, teleporting guests from the ordinary nonmagic realm into a spellbinding universe. Created with the team behind The Store of Requirement, The Wizard’s Suite will be filled with officially licensed merchandise from a certain magical world, including wands, officially licensed artwork and magical items. Guests will also have the chance to add on officially licensed Harry Potter merchandise to their stay. It will be the only one of its kind in Melbourne and is the sole chance for magical fans to live, sleep, and have a close encounter with these wondrous objects! www.thehotelwindsor.com.au
New Expedition Vessel for BC This year Canadian ecotourism pioneer Maple Leaf Adventures will launch British Columbia's first ship designed specifically for luxury expeditions along Canada's spectacular west coast – the 138-foot catamaran Cascadia.
Accommodating
up
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guests, Cascadia is designed to offer a more intimate and authentic experience, one aligned with the scale of the coastal inlets and communities her guests will visit. The former South Seas boutique sailing vessel, built in 2007, has been reconditioned into a sturdy ship capable of navigating British Columbia's challenging coastline. Her light, spacious cabins, all with en-suite facilities, are outfitted with generous windows, while the open-air lounge is perfect for dining al fresco, and the fully-accessible bridge boasts 180-degree views. While aboard, guests will experience some of the wildest and ecologically rich parts of British Columbia's rugged coastline; magical places that only such a small ship can access, and encounter the region’s diverse wildlife, from bears to whales. www.mapleleafadventures.com
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NEWS New Maldivian Hideaway Raffles has opened a 38-villa resort in the rare Maldivian oasis of Gaafu Alifu Atoll. A hidden gem with unparalleled views of the Indian Ocean, Raffles Maldives Meradhoo is the perfect overwater escape offering two distinct experiences for those seeking a private get-away or simply to enjoy the natural pristine water surroundings. Home to Beach Villas, Beach Residences and a Raffles Royal Residence, which opens in the second half of 2019, the luxurious property features a private pool, generous living spaces and lavish marble bathroom with a sunken bathtub and outdoor shower. A secluded collection of Over-water Villas and Residences lies adjacent to one of the vibrant house reefs which can be reached by a traditional Maldivian Dhoni boat. The resort boasts two magnificent reefs, which provide a thriving habitat for the marine life including baby sharks, turtles and a myriad of tropical fish. For those that want to learn more about the underwater realm, the hotel's resident marine biologist and team of marine butlers are on hand to personalise guest experiences that bring unique and beautiful insights of the underwater world. At night, the moon and stars reflect on the mirror-like ocean, creating an extraordinary spectacle. Guests can relish a range of rich gastronomic delights served at the Thari all-day diner, Yuzu, Peruvian and Japanese fusion restaurant and The Firepit where guest can enjoy various flamegrilled chef speciality dishes under the stars. A selection of tapas and freshly-prepared sashimi, original cocktail concoctions, inspired by the national drinks of South America and Japan, can be experienced at the over-water Yapa Sunset Bar or guests can explore a list of the world's most prestigious Champagnes and wines at the popular Long Bar. Set over the water, the award-winning Raffles Spa offers luxury facials by Biologique Recherche, a transformative body treatment using the purest extracts and essential oils by Aromatherapy Associates or the chance to indulge in manicures and pedicures from Margaret Dabbs London. Alternatively, recharge with an invigorating work-out at the over water fitness centre, a soothing seaside yoga session or choose from a selection of water sport activities to balance the physical and mental well-being. www.rafflesmaldives.com/meradhoo
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NEWS
Picture Perfect Route 66 has been named as the most Instagramworthy road trip in the world. The study, commissioned by Hertz in the UK, polled 2,000 adults to identify the latest trends in road trip holidays and found the top three routes were made up of US-based trips. These include the Grand Canyon and the Pacific Coast Highway, with 56 percent of respondents naming the US as the road trip capital of the world. The research also identified key ingredients for a successful road trip, which include wide-open roads, driving past famous attractions and spotting wildlife along the way. Discovering views and taking in the scenery is the main purpose for adults over 38 years of age (over 38s) to go on a road trip, while millennials want to enjoy a new experience. Of millennials, more than two thirds admitted the places they see on Instagram affect their choice of location, compared to only 13 percent of over 38s. In fact, 30 percent of millennials said they are unlikely to visit somewhere if they’ve never seen photos of it on Instagram. www.hertz.com
The Pearl of Phu Quoc
AccorHotels has opened the Premier Residences Emerald Bay on Vietnam’s Phu Quoc island. The resort features 745 stylish rooms, suites and two-bedroom penthouses with a private pool that offers expansive views of Emerald Bay. Phu Quoc island boasts idyllic beaches, romantic sunsets, evergreen forests, and serene surrounds, making it an ideal holiday destination for travellers looking to escape bustling city life. The new family-friendly resort boasts three restaurants and two bars, including Mercato, an all-day dining restaurant serving Vietnamese and international cuisine, while leisure facilities include a fitness centre, yoga studio and outdoor pool that overlooks Khem Beach. For a complete rejuvenation of the body and soul, the resort's Emerald Spa offers a range of signature facial and massage treatments where guests can indulge in a day of personal pampering. www.accor.com
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NEWS
Busy as Bees This summer, after months of preparation, Tasmanian Luxury Lodge Saffire Freycinet has launched its newest and most immersive guest experience: The Saffire Beekeeping Experience. For almost ten years, Saffire Freycinet's range of unique and immersive experiences in Tasmania's natural environment have received world-wide acclaim. Guests can now trade the oyster farm waders for a full-body apiarist suit and venture into a nearby private aviary, overlooking the Hazards of Freycinet. With the safety and guidance of Saffire Horticulturalist Rob 'The Bee Man' Barker, guests approach the hives to witness thousands of Tasmanian bees at work, and extract warm, fresh honeycomb to experience the breathtaking natural phenomenon of honey-making. The experience creates yet another link between Saffire guests and local producers of premium Tasmanian food and beverage. The Freycinet Peninsula is rich in biodiversity, and Rob's bees forage happily on the area's flowering native flora such as the abundant and medicinal leptospermum scoparium (manuka), fragrant kunzea ambigua, and bursaria spinose (prickly box). The flavour of the resulting honey, which is used at the Lodge, is ever-changing with the strong seasonal variation, unlike mono-floral varieties found elsewhere. This results in a honey with a completely distinctive, unrepeatable flavour profile, and also has the highly sought-after medicinal qualities of manuka honey. www.saffire-freycinet.com.au
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AIRLINES
Fiji remains one of the South Pacific’s most sought after destinations and the South Seas experience begins well before you arrive, thanks to Fiji Airways’ bold new look. By Nick Walton.
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AIRLINES
The Seat While the business class product on Fiji Airways isn’t cutting edge, it’s perfectly adequate for a daytime, nine-hour flight to Hong Kong. Each of the 24 seats, set in a 2-2-2 configuration, features a large 15.4-inch personal entertainment monitor in the seatback in front, two small compartments beneath, room for headphones in between, and additional space for bottles of Fiji Water beneath the armrest. Dressed in white leather, each seat has a pitch of 60-inches and lies at an eight-degree incline, which makes it ideal for daytime trips but a little dated for a red eye.
Dining Breakfast service started soon after take-off, and consisted of fresh fruit and double berry yogurt, followed by a granola parfait, fresh croissants, and a choice of a cheese and parsley omelet with chicken sausage and roasted potato; chocolate chip pancakes with whipped cream and caramelised pineapple; and an ‘eggless’ masala dosa crepe with pumpkin, tomato and chickpea curry. The pancakes were brilliant if not a little
Background
decadent, especially when matched with a round of signature Paradise rum cocktails.
As Air Pacific, Fiji’s national carrier delivered generations of travellers to its idyllic isles, Fiji Airways after an extensive
A few hours outside Hong Kong we enjoyed a lunch of garlic
revamp, now continues that tradition, albeit with a more
prawns with tamarind chutney; as well as a choice of braised
contemporary offering between Hong Kong and Nadi.
beef and mushroom stew; stir-fried chicken with egg noodles;
The Lounge After a quick check-in process at a dedicated business class counter, we made our way to the newly-opened Premier Lounge,
and grilled vegetable lasagna with a rich tomato basil sauce. The prawns were cooked perfectly, and the stir-fried chicken was succulent and perfectly seasoned.
a serene space with both café and lounge seating, a TV suite, a
What We Loved
games suite, its own spa, a stylish cocktail bar, and an extensive
Throughout the flight, the service was world-class, with the
hot and cold buffet. As flights to Hong Kong leave quite early in
ever-smiling crew making every request look a breeze. You
the morning, this is a great spot for breakfast.
forget what really great service is these days and it was a very
Boarding
welcome reminder.
Despite a quick boarding process onto the airline’s Airbus A330,
What We Didn’t
we departed 30 minutes late. However, this gave the crew time
The window shades were lowered very early in the flight and
to serve hot towels, signature cocktails, simple but fun amenity
were kept down throughout, which I thought odd for a flight that
kits, and menus. After take-off, we switched gear, with glasses of
starts at 9am and arrives at 3pm. The entertainment selection
Prince Laurent Champagne before breakfast was served.
could do with a spring clean. www.fijiairways.com
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Hotel Review
Behind the luxury accommodation, azure waters and dancing palm trees, one Maldivian resort – Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru – is working hard to ensure guests will enjoy this unique destination for generations to come. By Nick Walton
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Hotel Review
I
t’s rather easy to forget all the hard work that goes
recently has been the bleaching and subsequent coral mortality
into building and maintaining a resort in a setting
experienced in 2016,” says Newman. “We implemented a coral
like the Maldives. Guests are mesmerised by powder
bleaching management plan in 2016, and have a well-established
white sandy beaches and turquoise lagoons, but the
reef restoration programme, including coral nurseries and
more delicate the destination, the more sensitive
transplanting to assist natural recovery of the reefs.”
resorts like Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru, a pint-sized retreat a quick speed boat from the international airport, need to do so as not to
Guests can get in on the action with reef nursery activities and
negatively impact their paradisal surrounds.
weekly reef clean-ups as part of Banyan Tree’s innovative Citizen Science initiative, which gives guests of all ages and experience
Banyan Tree, as a brand, has always strived to put more into the
the chance to learn about the island’s marine environment
environments in which it operates than it takes out, and in the
and key specifications and collect data - using photographic
Maldives, where the sibling brands Banyan Tree and Angsana
underwater check sheets - that support the brand’s conservation
operate three resorts, much of that attention is focused on the
efforts.
waters that wreath the archipelago’s tiny atolls. Banyan Tree’s environmental focus in the Maldives is on coral bleaching, reef
Eyes are not only on the seas but also in the skies. “We’re also
restoration, and the monitoring of shark populations as part of
concerned about long term island erosion,” says Newman. In
the country’s National Plan of Action for the Management of
response, the team was the first to use drones to 3D map the
Sharks following its ban on shark fisheries.
island from the sky, so the team can better understand change in sand volume and island persistence. The island has been
“Banyan Tree built the first resort-based marine lab in the
mapped every month with GPS since 2004 and by drone since
Maldives, back in 2004, first on Vabbinfaru and later on
2016.
Velavaru in 2007,” says Steve Newman PhD, group director of Conservation for Banyan Tree. “These both support our
One of the group’s newest initiatives, founded in 2018, is the
conservation efforts with interdisciplinary multicultural teams
Plastic Free Banyan Tree pledge. While many hospitality brands
but also focus on conservation, restoration, education and
are trying to limit – if not completely cut out – single use plastics,
research.” He says the brand and its marine lab teams have
doing so in the Maldives, where resorts are far from suppliers
developed a research programme that informs conservation,
and subject to high logistics cost, is truly ambitious.
restoration and education programmes, while also measuring the success of those efforts. “In turn, findings from our research
“We have pledged to reduce and ultimately eliminate all single-
are shared with government to assist in local management of
use plastic in Banyan Tree properties around the world,” says
coral reefs and shark populations.”
Newman. “This is particularly pertinent to the properties in the Maldives, with plastic accounting for almost 90 percent of
Travellers fly from around the world to snorkel and dive on the
marine debris.” The group is in the process of benchmarking
reef systems of the Maldives but the effects of El Nino and climate
its plastic use and phasing out single use plastics at all three
change have meant that in some parts of the nation 90 percent
properties so the next time you dive into the Indian Ocean you’ll
of the coral formations have been affected. “The biggest concern
only see what Mother Nature intended.
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A DAY IN
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A DAY IN
The Caucasus’
Capital of Cool
If thoughts of crumbling Soviet architecture, dilapidated infrastructure, armies of moody babushkas and a stoic culinary scene come to mind when someone mentions Tbilisi, then think again. The capital of Georgia is the capital of cool for the Caucasus and offers one of the region’s most fascinating and multi-faceted travel experiences, discovers Nick Walton
9am Reaching Georgia from Asia has become increasingly easy thanks to great connectivity through Kazakhstan with Air Astana. The award-winning airline connects the destinations of the CIS with the likes of Hong Kong, Bangkok, Beijing and Kuala Lumpur. www.airastana.com
10am Kick off at one of the city’s coolest boutique houses of slumber, Stamba Hotel, a member of Design Hotels. Housed in one of the city’s most important 20th century landmarks, a former printing house, this uber-chic 41 room (soon to be increased to 150) hideaway is packed with nods to Georgia’s often tumultuous past, including Soviet-era propaganda printed within its hallowed halls. Look out for breathtaking free-standing brass bathtubs in suites; leave time for a dip in the spectacular glass-bottom rooftop pool; and have a flutter at the tables of the Art Deco-inspired Aviator Casino.
11am Time to give your bargaining skills a flex at the Dry Bridge Flea Market. Located near picturesque Dedaena Park, this fascinating bazaar has an eclectic mix of daily household items, intermingled with true gems from the country’s past,
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A DAY IN
from Soviet campaign medals and revolutionary pin-
to-table dining experience that’s best enjoyed on the
ups to timeless estate jewellery. Increasingly the city’s
restaurant’s outdoor terrace, which looks onto the
young creatives are using the flea market to sell home-
hotel’s garden and amphitheater.
made arts and crafts, ensuring an afternoon spent in wonder.
1pm
3pm Head to Tbilisi’s old quarter and Abanotubani, a district best known for its ancient sulphur bathhouses – you’ll
Return to the Stamba for some of the city’s freshest
smell them before you discover their brick domes,
Georgian cuisine, at Café Stamba. A popular spot for
which lead underground to the baths proper, each
both brunch and lunch, Café Stamba’s culinary team
of which are lined with mesmerising mosaics. While
work with the Georgian Farmers’ Association to ensure
you can opt for a private room, complete with soak
all ingredients are sustainable and locally-sourced.
tub, the rule is complete nudity, so cast your modesty
The result is an unashamedly contemporary farm-
aside and select an exfoliating scrub or soapy massage
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A DAY IN palate-pleasing dishes like Kachapuri cheese pastries, Shkmeruli, chicken cooked in a milk and garlic sauce; veal with forest berries and green adjika, and Khinkhali dumplings, made to order.
10pm For a unique nightcap, head for the Old Cellar Wine Bar, housed in a 17th century wine cellar that now showcases one of the city’s best selections of Georgian wine. Georgia is the ancestral home of wine, and both traditional and more contemporary wines – many of which come from the popular Kakheti wine region and are fermented in traditional clay vessels called qvevri – are served either in the sumptuous private rooms upstairs, or at the tasting bar in the cellar beneath. using water that’s been at the heart of Georgian healing traditions for centuries. Afterwards, cool down with a traditional Lagidze, mineral water spiked with sweet syrups and dispensed from street side soda fountains.
5pm Tap into the growing local arts scene at the Zurab Tsereteli Museum of Modern Art, locally known as MoMA Tbilisi. While the majority of the museum is dedicated to local
9.30am Greet the morning from another great look out, Narikala Fortress, which overlooks the Old City and Kura River. Established in the 4th century as a Persian citadel, the ancient structure is an icon of the city that’s evolved and expanded below and is accessed via a dramatic gondola that soars across the river from the Rike Park.
artist Zurab Tsereteli, the third floor showcases other Georgian talents as well as modern artists from across the Caucasus.
7.30pm For the best views of the city, take the funicular up Mount Mtatsminda, one of several peaks that ring the city centre. During the warmer months, this is a popular spot with locals, who visit the amusement park at its top, stroll the fairy light-lit lanes, and dine at some of the city’s top eateries, including Funicular, which offers staggering city views. Be sure to opt for the traditional Georgian menu for
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OMAN
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OMAN
Behind
theVeil
A visit to the Anantara resorts of Oman is a chance to step back in time to the Arabia of old, discovers Nick Walton.
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OMAN
guests do laps of the resort's infinity pool, while waiters prepare a private dining experience at the spot where the late Princess of Wales once found respite during a 1986 visit to the Sultanate. The light isn’t the only thing that drains away rapidly. The temperature plummets with the sun’s departure and guests are quick to wrap themselves in shawls so as not to miss a moment of dreamy twilight.
N
ight comes quickly in the mountains
If Oman isn’t already high on your bucket list of
of Oman, as if a great blanket
destinations, then it really should be. Peaceful, modern
has been thrown over the world.
and sophisticated, Oman has maintained the balance
The canyons of Arabia’s highest
between modernity and antiquity that has escaped so
mountain range descend into deep
many other Gulf destinations. Beyond Muscat, the modern
purples as the sun sinks, and then, once that celestial orb
capital, little has changed since the Green Mountain range
passes beyond the highest peak, a darkness swallows up
was ruled over by tribal dynasties, its surrounding valleys
the landscape, punctuated only by a canopy of stars and a
the verdant fruit bowl of the southern Arabic Peninsula.
halo of yellow light cast from distant Muscat. The drive from Muscat to Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar takes I’m watching this dramatic transition from a glass
just over two hours, much of it spent winding and climbing
viewing platform at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort, a
through breathtaking red and brown canyons with
luxurious retreat perched high atop Oman’s fabled Green
wickedly shaped tips that resemble trickle that’s suddenly
Mountain. The platform juts out above a dizzyingly-
cooled. Clouds stumble across the summits, while below,
deep rift in the 6,500ft high Saiq Plateau, the ancient
the barren cliff faces tell the geological story of the region
rock walls of the canyon plummeting down to villages of
in bold stripes and streaks of colour. The whole range was
whitewashed stucco homes and date plantations. Nearby,
under the sea before being heaved and folded into shape
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OMAN
by the powers of the earth, and the minerality of the rock
and 33 villas, it’s easy to forget the world beyond even
has made the valleys below surprisingly fertile, giving birth
exists. My One Bedroom Cliff Pool Villa is perched steps
to the date plantations and fruit orchards that ring the
from the canyon edge and features a spacious living room,
nearby city of Nizwa, which has drawn travellers since the
a cavernous bathroom, and a temperature-controlled
fifth century.
swimming pool. Standing on my patio on my first frosty morning, there’s no evidence of another soul on the
In keeping with the region’s rich heritage, the Anantara is
mountain and apart from the odd amiable goat, I’m left
less the lavish, glitzy resorts many associate with the Middle
alone to my thoughts.
East and more a muted, refined retreat, its architecture taking its cues from the ancient fortress designs that once
However, there’s much more to do on Oman’s Green
pockmarked these vital mountain ranges, a water feature
Mountain than contemplating one’s own navel. The newest
running through the property’s manicured gardens a
addition to the roster of activities is the Jabal Activity
reference to the complex irrigation systems that sustained
Wall, where intrepid travellers can scale a raw slab of
the terrace orchards of Al Jabal’s many villages.
the mountainside using ropes, harnesses or via ferrata steep cables, all under the guise of a team of instructors.
Once checked into one of the Anantara’s 82 guest rooms
There’s also archery, mountain biking, and authentic
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OMAN
Omani cooking classes to try, but to get a sense of the
juniper beams now exposed to the brilliant sunshine.
mountain as it once was I opt to join one of the resort’s cultural excursions.
It’s these same vital ingredients – rose and pomegranate – grown in the valley, that are now
I venture out with Maher al Riyami, the resort’s
employed in treatments at the Anantara Spa, where
Mountain Guru, to visit the now deserted village of
the rich traditions of Oman are maintained in modern
Birkat Al-Mouz, where he was born. The village, with its
wellness rituals. The Revitalising Pomegranate Journey,
white blocklike homes and cascading terraces, is a short
which uses fresh fruit from nearby orchards, blended
walk from the resort, down narrow mountain paths
with salt, is an indulgent exfoliation that’s followed with
along which farmers would hike on their way to their
an Arabian massage and a milk and Oriental spice foot
pomegranate orchards. The natural spring that flowed
cleansing, making for the perfect farewell from one
through Birkat Al-Mouz’s traditional al falaj irrigation
resort to the next.
system eventually ran dry, forcing the villagers to resettle further up the mountain, but many still return
After descending the Hajar Mountains once again,
to tend to their crops of garlic, walnuts and roses, which
there’s time to explore Nizwa’s towering fort. From the
come into bloom between March and May. Atop his
top, the valley is a wedge of green date palms bordered
childhood home, where he grew up with nine brothers
by the pink stone of the towering mountains and the
and sisters, Mahar shares plump dates and points out
cries from a nearby cricket pitch echo off the ancient
the ruins of a 700-year old rose water distillery, its
stone.
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OMAN
From the interior I journey south to Salalah, the capital
to Salalah since 3,000BC is frankincense. Also known
of Oman’s Dhofar region and a popular destination with
as olibanum, the essential oil of this prized tree resin
Middle Eastern travellers during the Khareef monsoon
fuelled Salalah’s ancient economy and remains an
season, when the winds and rains of the Persian Gulf
important commodity that’s thought to reduce pain
turn the plains into a lush Eden dotted with tropical fruit
and inflammation, boost the body’s immune system
farms.
and potentially even fight cancer.
I leave cruise ship tour groups jostling for their luggage
To learn more, I head out with Anantara Guru Hussain
at the new airport behind and head to Anantara’s
Balhaf, passing the Sultan of Oman’s sprawling palace
breathtaking Al-Baleed Resort, a chic hideaway nestled
as we journey west along a postcard perfect coastline
between the splendour of a private beach and the
that’s deserted save for the odd somnolent camel.
serenity of a freshwater lagoon. Palms line the paths
As we skirt the vivid blue waters of the Arabian Sea,
that lead from the main resort building to my one-
Hussain tells me how Salalah has changed over the
bedroom Garden View Pool Villa, which has adopted
years. “When I was a young man in the 1970s, you
the tall stucco walls of traditional Salalah architecture
would not even see a car here in Salalah, only camels.
to create a sublimely private oasis.
Many things have changed, but then again, many things haven’t, and that is what’s beautiful about the south.”
You may come to Salalah to work on your tan or to hike on Jabal Samhan Mountain, but what’s drawn visitors
Dhofar has long been a fishing and trading hub, and
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OMAN
on a rocky cliffside beside the sea the remains of Khor Rorī, once an important city and defensive fortification, dominate the landscape. Established at the end of the first century BC and said to have been the coastal palace of the Queen of Sheba, Khor Rorī was used to control the trade of frankincense, but today the Unesco-listed ruins are little more than weathered stone where picnicking families enjoy stunning coastal views. Climbing once again into the foothills, Hussain leads me into a steep wadi at the centre of which wizened frankincense trees grow. Frankincense has had many uses over the centuries, from the ketoret ceremonies of the Temple of Jerusalem to a spiritual incense that’s regularly mentioned in the Bible, including as one of the gifts given to the infant Jesus. Guests at the Anantara can visit Wadi Dawkah, a Unesco-listed site that’s home to over 5,000 frankincense trees, and have a local farmer show them how the precious honey-hued tree sap is collected. To learn more, we continue on to Salalah’s Haffah Souq, the oldest in the city, which specialises in hawjari, the finest frankincense in the world. Here, the pebbles of resin are sorted for quality and colour by women in jet black burkas in a scene that’s as timeless as the distant mountains, and the air is alive with the intoxicating aroma of burning sap. Despite its ancient heritage, frankincense is increasingly finding its way into modern products, from cosmetics to honey and ice cream, many of which are exported from Salalah. I decide to return to the resort and try something a little more traditional, with the 90-minute Frankincense Ritual at the Anantara Spa, which combines a sap-infused welcome drink with a fourhanded synchronised massage accompanied with warm, aromatic frankincense oil that’s said to promote circulation but instead sends me off to dreams of mountain fortresses, mythical queens and camel trains setting out for distant lands.
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OMAN
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Travel Essentials
Noise
No More
Whether you’re flying long-haul on a red eye or simply trying to shut out the sounds of a city that doesn’t want to sleep, the new noise-masking Sleepbuds from sound gurus Bose promise to keep the world beyond at bay. These tiny, truly wireless earbuds combine an ultra-comfortable design with soothing, meditative sounds to block, cover, and replace the most common noises that interfere with sleep. The smallest product the company has ever made, and the first to use sleep masking technology – which in some instances is even more effective than noise-cancelling – the Sleepbuds come pre-loaded with 10 ‘sleeptracks’ that mirror the frequencies of snoring, neighbours, dogs, traffic, and more – hiding them beneath a layer of relaxing audio for up to 16 hours. Ambient sound is also kept out thanks to new patented ear tips that offer a snug, soft, barely-felt fit, and when the Sleepbuds are not in use, they charge in a chic brushed aluminum case, secured by magnets. www.bose.com
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Travel Essentials
Full Metal
luggage Ensure you – and your belongings – get to where you’re headed this holiday season with the new 19 Degree Gunmetal from Tumi. Striking and made to handle the ordeals of today’s busy airports, this carry-on is ideal for weekend escapes and business trips, and features two mesh zip pockets, tie-down straps on both compartments, TSA integrated locks, a three-stage telescoping handle system, and a rugged metallic exterior that carries its scars with pride. The case even comes with a series of vintage-inspired stickers to allow you to add a touch of personalisation to your case.
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FIJI
PARADISE FOUND Families looking for the ultimate South Seas vacation need only make a beeline for the InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa, a unique retreat that truly has something for every traveller, discovers Nick Walton.
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FIJI
F
inding a resort that keeps both kids and their parents happy often proves the biggest challenge to families looking to escape together. However, the Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa is not like any other
resort. Located on one of Fiji’s most coveted beaches, a strip of coast on the western side of Viti Levu that’s been heralded as one of the Pacific’s best, the resort caters to travellers of all sizes to perfection. Spread across 12 hectares of tropical, landscaped gardens, few resorts maintain the balance that the InterCon does. There are spaces for the kids and spaces for mums and dads looking for a little quite time. There are three pools – including one just for adults – and kids clubs, on-site water sports and dive clubs, and activities to keep the whole family entertained. There are also sublime guest rooms that are both luxurious and practical, spacious yet refined. You can pick up the family-friendly vibe each night at the Kama Lounge, an elegant bar that flows out onto a broad courtyard where evening fire and drum performances are timed for Fiji’s dramatic sunsets. Parents sip tropical cocktails while their kids follow the traditional warriors as they chant and light torches in an exhilarating display that gives a fantastic sense of place. As at every resort, the accommodation acts as a base of operations and at the Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa guest rooms and suites are spaces of quiet respite. Boasting some of the largest accommodations in the islands, the InterCon features 266 guest rooms, including 216 elegantlyappointed resort rooms, and 50 luxurious suites, located at the iconic Club InterContinental, a resort within the resort that also features its own swimming pool and restaurant, perched high above the main complex. All rooms feature high ceilings, flat screen televisions, day beds and signature Cleopatra baths. Many room categories offer direct access to the beach, the pool or lagoon, making them especially well suited to families, while the Club InterContinental Two Bedroom Suites offer a little extra elbow room. No people revere children quite like the Fijians. Young and old, they have infinite patience for little guests and there’s always a game of touch rugby, a weaving class or a hunt for seashells on offer for kids looking to break up the day. In fact, much of the resort is allocated to activities for guests of all ages. There is stand-up paddle boarding, deep sea fishing expeditions and
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FIJI
complimentary scuba introduction sessions, glass bottle boat rides, wake-boarding, waterskiing, kayaking, surf lessons and snorkelling safaris, as well as traditional games, village visits, pottery shows and much more. A new Hydro Sports centre offers activities with a little more punch, including parasailing and fly boarding, while the little ones might enjoy adding to the resort’s coral garden, an activity that teaches them the importance of vital coral ecosystems in the Pacific. An hour of nonmotorised water-sport activities is included each day and some families make the most of the tropical weather and warm seas to try their hands at new activities while others take pony rides along the idyllic beachfront.
and is situated between the family and adults’ pools, and, for those special occasions, Navo offers the finesse of lagoon-
Of course, sometimes mum and dad need some quiet
side fine dining, complemented by an extensive range of new
time and that’s when the Planet Trekker’s childcare
and old world wines.
facility, which caters for tots aged 4-12, comes in handy. This dedicated kid’s centre offers a range of curated
A visit to the InterCon wouldn’t be complete without a round
events and activities, as well as an interactive children’s
at the acclaimed Natadola Bay Championship Golf Course,
educational Planet Trekker app and child-friendly menus.
home to the Fiji Open, the Nomura Cup and the Natadola Bay Fiji Classic. With fairways wreathing the lagoon and
Talking of dining, the Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort &
criss-crossed by the small-gauge rail tracks of the sugar cane
Spa offers a plethora of dining options that will suit even
locomotives, the course is the best in the islands and offers a
the fussiest eaters. While the Kama Lounge, with its live
challenging run for players of all skill levels.
music, nightly fire lighting ceremonies, drum spectaculars, fire dancing, and South Seas vibe, is undoubtedly the
If a spot of pampering is more your thing, make for the Spa
heart of the resort, the nearby Sanasana restaurant
Intercontinental, one of the best in Fiji and the perfect enclave
is perfect for families. Its expansive buffet spread with
for wellness lovers. The spa offers a host of treatments that
nightly themes means there’s delectable bites for every
combine Asian, Eastern and Western holistic philosophies
palate, including traditional Fijian and Indian dishes
best enjoyed in a private cabana or in the spa’s unique Orchid
and popular seafood spreads on Sunday evenings. For
Room, a sublime celebration suite that includes a dedicated
something more casual, the Toba Bar & Grill serves a
treatment area, relaxation lounge, steam shower and plunge
wide range of wood-fired pizzas, burgers and beverages
pool. www.fiji.intercontinental.com
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