InFlight Traveller Preview Edition, 2020-2021

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THE PREMIER TRUSTED TRAVEL MAGAZINE

TRAVELLER

ARE WE TRAVELLING YET?

A look at the way we’ll travel in the age of Covid-19

2020 VO LU M E 7 I S SU E 25

PhP190

STAYCATION ISSUE

Out of this world Lagen island, Palawan still casts its spell

HOT RIGHT NOW

The new SEDA Residences offers privacy and luxury for travellers

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Pie and Bernice Calayan on skin care post lockdown

HOTEL FEATURES

• Richmonde Hotel Ortigas • Hue Hotel, Puerto Princesa • Nacpan Beach Glamping in El Nido


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COVID-19 NEWS

CORONAVIRUS: Thousands of stranded tourists brought home on AirSWIFT mercy flights

Clockwise from top, last mercy flight in Puerto Princesa, Palawan; AirSWIFT mercy flight crew; queuing at AirSWIFT ticketing office for mercy

irSWIFT launched mercy flights in March this year, at the start of the Coronavirus quarantine, flying more than 3,000 stranded tourists from Palawan to Clark Airport in Pampanga. Initial flights were arranged for El Nido to Clark, one of the Philippines’ major international gateways. Due to increased demand, this was later extended to cover flights from Puerto Princesa and Coron in Palawan to Clark, where passengers can then make necessary international connections.

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The mercy flights were operated during the period March 15-22 with the help of the provincial government units and local tourism offices, allowing AirSWIFT to operate the flights despite domestic air travel restrictions. Additional flights — called sweeper flights — to Caticlan, Bohol and Cebu were operated until June to accommodate more stranded individuals. Flights outside AirSWIFT’s usual routes were also set up, including to San Vicente in Palawan, Siargao, Dumaguete, Bacolod and Iloilo. The flights helped stranded tourists to finally go back home to

flight booking

their families. AirSWIFT’s El Nido ticketing office, online booking site, and Puerto Princesa travel agents allowed passengers to book seats on the mercy flights, giving them much needed relief. AirSWIFT has assured its passengers that safety checks of the highest standards will be strictly carried out throughout the journey, including regular testing of all flight and ground crew, temperature scanning of all AirSWIFT crew and passengers, use of hospital grade disinfectant spray to disinfect all AirSWIFT aircraft before and after each flight, and a deep clean every 24 hours, and the wearing of PPEs for all airline ground staff and cabin crew. AirSWIFT is also providing each passenger a free health kit containing hand sanitizer with 70% alcohol, surgical masks, and face shield. And soon as CAAP gives its approval, each passenger seat will have a three-sided clear protective “pod” to minimise the possibility of droplet transmission from nearby passengers. Unlike other aircraft that recycles cabin air, AirSWIFT aircraft’s pressurisation and air-conditioning system provides a steady supply of fresh air while venting out stale air and any airborne viruses. For more information and Covid-19 updates, visit www.air-swift.com.


InFlight Traveller’s website, www.archipelago.com.ph, is under construction and will migrate to a new site,

Pie and

www.archipelagomagazine.com. Check the latest news

Bernice Calayan

on our Facebook page, @archipelagomagazine. @archipelagomagazine

@archipelago.ph

EDITORIAL Executive Editor: Iren Dornier Editor-in-Chief: Giselle Dalton Contributing Editor: Lory Alba Art Director: Jocas A. See CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGR APHERS ReyRey Ochavez, David Dalton, Ron Mendoza, and Lala Magbuhat ADVERTISING SALES AND MARKETING Sales and Marketing Director: Bing Rodriguez Senior Account Manager: Kim Tutanes Sales Assistant: Daryl Joy Mendoza Sales Consultant: Mary Jane Aler PUBLISHING Publisher: Dornier Media Publishing Director: Nikos Gitsis Publishing Manager: André Palma BOARD OF ADVISERS Chairman: Iren Dornier Publishing Director: Nikos Gitsis Editorial Director: Giselle Dalton Legal Counsel: Atty. Loreto Dapon, Jr. INQUIRIES Call tel +63 2 8791 8187, mobile +63 977 826 8322 For editorial inquiries, email: editors@dorniermedia.com For advertising inquiries, email: advertising@dorniermedia.com or call +63 977 826 8322 PHILIPPINE COPYRIGHT © 2020 DORNIER MEDIA D O R N I E R M E D I A I N T E R N AT I O N A L

306, La ‘O Center, 1000, Arnaiz Avenue, Makati City, 1227 Philippines

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TALK 06

ARE WE TRAVELLING YET? A look at the way we’ll travel post Covid-19 quarantine

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ME AND MY PHILIPPINES Pie and Bernice Calayan on skincare and genetics-led wellness treatment

INDULGE 12

WHY SEDA IS THE TALK OF THE TOWN Seda Residences Makati offers sophisticated serviced apartments with all the comforts of home (plus a few more) and some of the best views of the city from its chic rooftop bar

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THE RICHMONDE HOTEL: RIGHT AT THE HEART OF ORTIGAS BUSINESS DISTRICT For corporate visitors the location is perfect, but for family staycations and treats there are shops, bars and restaurants on your doorstep

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GLAMPING ON ONE OF THE BEST BEACHES IN ASIA Nacpan, a short road trip to the north of El Nido town in Palawan, is laid back, unspoiled and the perfect place to get back to nature under canvas

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DOES ULTHERAPY REALLY WORK? This non-invasive, face lifting treatment, offered by the pioneering Manny and Pie Calayan Clinic, uses micro-focused ultrasound to rebuild your collagen levels, with visible results in two to six months

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HUE HOTEL: A SUPERSTYLED HOTEL WITH AN ISLAND VIBE If you’re to pick one boutique hotel in Puerto Princesa to call home, pick this one, says Giselle Dalton

ON THE COVER Location: Small Lagoon, El Nido Photo by Reyrey Ochavez

P I E A N D B E R N I C E C A L AYA N P H O T O BY R O N M E N D O Z A


VOLUM E 7 | ISSU E 25 | 2020

CONTENTS 22

Dreamy cottages on stilts at Lagen Island Resort, El Nido

C O V E R S T ORY

Out of this world

Lagen Island, Palawan still casts its spell PHOTO COURTESY OF EL NIDO RESORTS

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ME AND MY PHILIPPINES

Pie and Bernice Calayan, dermatologist and medical aesthetician P H O T O BY R O N M E N D O Z A

What’s your beauty routine? Pie Calayan (PC): I use our own brand illuminating products (www.mannyandpiecalayanclinic. com) to brighten my skin and our own brand serums to hydrate and minimize lines. In the morning I put on tinted sunblock and hydrating serums. I use these instead of moisturizers because moisturizers tend to make my skin very oily. Bernice Calayan (BC): I use hyaluronic acid, twice a day. I’m a big fan. I used to suffer from really bad hydration. I had fine lines all over my face. When I started to use hyaluronic acid, the lines disappeared. PC: Bernice was first to use hyaluronic acid. I saw the difference in her skin. I told her I should use it too. What about retinol, a recognised anti-aging product? PC: I don’t have anything against it, but the Philippines is too hot and sometimes you can’t avoid being exposed to the sun especially in the car when you’re driving. When you’re using retinol, you tend to get rebound pigmentation when accidentally exposed to the sun. What about Ultherapy®, one of the latest magic treatments? PC: It’s the only FDA treatment 8

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approved to lift the skin, the brows, eyes, cheeks, chin and neck because it targets the tissues deep within the skin. That’s why the tightening is more pronounced than other non-invasive machine treatments. BC: Ultherapy® is done directly on the skin so it’s effective compared to taking supplements and other treatments. It is scientifically proven to stimulate collagen production from 21-68%.

Why do some skin treatments fail? PC: We follow holistic medicine. When clients come in with psoriasis, allergies, or acne that don’t improve with creams and ointments, we look at their system, not just the skin because sometimes 90% of people have problems with the gut. BC: We reduce the inflammation in the gut first and see how this affects the skin.

What are the most important things for skin health? PC: Sleep. Sleep early, before 10pm. Hydrate, use sunblock, manage your stress. Stress often shows on your face. Exercise regularly. BC: And go to Manny and Pie Calayan Clinic for your regular treatments. It’s all about skin maintenance. Prevention is better than cure.

What supplements would you recommend for skin health? PC: I only take supplements advised by Fit Genes (www. fitgenes.com), which uses results of DNA tests for a personalised approach to health. What works for me may not work for others. BC: In general we observed that Filipinos are low in vitamin D3. Any anti-inflammatory oil supplement is also useful to those with acne. We prescribed this in some patients and in a few weeks their acne is gone. And take probiotics, about 30 billion CFUs or live friendly bacteria everyday. Try and drink Kombucha fermented tea. PC: I’m not an advocate of taking pills. I favor acupuncture to help with stress, any illness, surgery, and the nervous system. I do it every week.

What about smoking and alcohol? PC: No smoking. A glass of wine occasionally is ok. What is your stand on collagen drinks? PC: I recommend plant collagen instead of animal collagen. BC: You have to take into account if your gut can absorb all the nutrients because if it can’t, then it’s no use.


M E A N D M Y T U B B ATA H A

Acuaverde in Batangas (www. acuaverderesort.com). We’re able to enjoy the beach and swim, only from 5pm onwards. Favorite meal? PC: Mushroom sisig. We also try to be vegan and prepare plantbased meals. Favorite restaurants? For Filipino food, Manam (www.momentgroup.ph). And Cyma Greek restaurant (www. cymarestaurants.com). What’s on your travel wish list? PC: Batanes, Benguet; El Nido. BC: Skydiving.

ABOUT PIE CALAYAN AND BERNICE CALAYAN ROSARIO HIZON GUANZON CABRERA-CALAYAN is a Pampanga-born dermatologist, known as “Doctora Pie.” Together with husband Manny Calayan, she started the Manny and Pie Calayan Clinic, a dermatological clinic, some 25 years ago. She holds a degree in medicine from the University of the East — Ramon Magsaysay Memorial Medical Center, and specializes in aesthetics skin care and laser.

What are you working on right now? PC: We are using more holistic treatments and natural products to help patients in our clinic. And I’m collaborating with physicists on using laser to successfully remove stretchmarks. What do you do to unwind and manage stress? PC: We take holidays with the

family. And yoga. Bernice and I go to yoga classes, Bliss Yoga, six to seven times a week. It’s our mother-daughter bonding. What’s your favorite resort? PC: Our family love Club Paradise Palawan (www. clubparadisepalawan.com) in Coron, Palawan. There’s also Henann Resort Alona Beach, Bohol (www.henann.com) and

From left, Bernice Calayan, and Dr. Pie Calayan

CHRISTIANA MARIA BERNICE CABRERA-CALAYAN, known as Berns, recently joined the Manny and Pie Calayan Clinic. She is certified in Advanced Naturopathy and is a licensed medical aesthetician. She finished her studies in 2018 at the Aesthetics International Academy in Singapore and the Australian Institute of Holistic Medicine.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Lyskin face saviours

Swap your expensive topshelf brands for this proudly Philippine-made skin care line containing nature’s magic snail mucin extract n 2019, Lyselle Abalos’ keen interest in skin care and entrepreneurial spirit led her to get in touch with a chemist to help her create her own skin care line. “I was inspired by an online entrepreneur who started out by buying and selling skin care brands online and later on branched out by selling her own brands,” said Abalos whose brand Lyskin was launched in October 2019. Lyskin, named after Abalos, and short for “love your skin”, is a collection of skin care products, from facial wash, serums to whitening creams, all affordably priced. It’s part of a new-wave of affordable beauty buys in the Philippine market, led by the allpopular Korean brands. Its best selling the Ultimate Glow Set and Premium Rejuvenating Set, all available online, boasts of nature’s active ingredient, the snail mucin extract. Snail mucin extract is known to help promote collagen production, is highly moisturizing, and antiinflammatory. Some five years ago, snail mucin entered the beauty scene, with snail facial spas opening in Tokyo and Thailand. The snails placed on your face secrete slimy beneficial mucus which some may not find so appealing, but are skin’s powerful saviours. Thankfully, these days, the snail magic cream comes in skin care products like Lyskin. Lyskin’s Ultimate Glow Set, priced at P1200, helps achieve a

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luminous skin without peeling. It brightens and whitens skin, repairs and moisturizes, and is antiaging, and anti-acne. The active ingredient in the product is snail mucin. The Premium Rejuvenating set, priced at P1900, is Lyskin’s ultimate anti-aging formula, targeted at clearing melasma, dark spots, and diminishing fine lines and wrinkles. The collection, all infused with snail mucin extract, includes the facial foam wash, rejuvenating toner, whitening serum, collagen serum, whitening sunblock. Since this is a peeling product, results are achieved faster.

A GUIDE TO LYSKIN SKIN PRODUCTS

Retails online at P160. Citronella Lotion. This moisturising lotion, made from all-natural

Snail Extract Whitening

ingredients, is for kids as

Lotion. A whitening lotion

well as adults.

infused with snail extract

Retails online at P180.

serum with sun protection factor (SPF) 60.

Whitening Sunblock.

Retails online at P300.

This sunblock protects, moisturizes and whitens.

Regular Rejuvenating Set. A more affordable version of the premium one, but just as effective. Retails online at P380.

Shop Lyskin on Facebook @lyskinpt, Instagram, Akulaku App, and Adobomall

Feminine Wash. An anti-

App, and starting July 2020 on www.

bacterial and whitening

lysskincare.com, tel 09175695948.

feminine hygience wash.

Retails online at P200.


INDULGE

STAYCATION PLAN NOW / GO LATER

I S S U E

Seda Residences Makati’s infinity pool

P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F S E D A R E S I D E N C E S M A K AT I

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INDULGE

HOTEL

Stylish home from home in Makati City

SEDA RESIDENCES MAKATI offers sophisticated serviced apartments with all the comforts of home (plus a few more) and some of the best views of the city from its chic rooftop bar

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t’s a great travel cliché that what you really need when you’re overseas is a “home away from home.” It’s not going too far to say this is exactly what you’ll get at Seda Residences Makati. All the five-star “big ticket items” are there — a restaurant with remarkable views, an infinity swimming pool. But in Seda’s rooms you’ll also find all the extras that will make your stay hassle-free. The studio rooms have kitchenettes with a microwave oven, a hob, a rice cooker and a fridge, so if you feel like some “home away from home” cooking, it’s not a problem. Other rooms also have a washer and a dryer. All rooms have a desk and complimentary WiFi and broadband, which means if there’s work to do — or if you are staying here for long periods on business — you can keep in touch with the office and keep up-to-date with emails. The beauty of Seda’s rooms (there are five types ranging from 31sqm studios to 143-sqm two-bedoom suites) is that they are more serviced apartments than standard hotel rooms. They combine all the amenities of a top-of-the-range hotel and a comfortable private apartment. The options of having separate 12

Studio Premiere’s bedroom

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bedrooms means it’s an ideal place to stay with the family. Some rooms have dining areas and comfortable lounges where you can relax and watch television (all rooms have LED HDTV with cable channels). Seda Residences Makati (there are two other Seda properties in Metro Manila at Quezon City and Bonifacio Global City) is in the heart of the business district, at the northern end of Ayala Avenue near the junction with Amorsolo Street. From our room on the 28th floor, we have stunning city view, looking straight down Ayala Avenue towards EDSA and, in the other direction, towards another main artery, Buendia. The Greenbelt area, with its shops and restaurants, is a 10-minute walk. Even closer, you can head to the lobby level and outside to the Ayala North Exchange complex where there are plenty of restaurants, many of which will deliver to your Seda room if you feel like a

night at “home.” As of press time, restaurants with delivery and take-out options have reopened in Metro Manila, and shopping malls are open with social distrancing in force. Seda Residences Makati, the Seda Group’s first serviced apartment property, opened in 2019, making it one of the newest hotels in the area. It is part of the Ayala North Exchange complex, which has a mall and two towers. The hotel occupies the top half of Tower 1, from the 19th to the 35th floor. And it’s on the 35th floor that things get extra special. It’s here you’ll find the Misto restaurant, a chic all-day dining outlet. At the moment, only orders for in-room dining are accepted — individually-packed and to be picked up from Misto. Step through the restaurant and out on to the deck and you’ll find the Straight Up roof bar, which has comfortable sofas where you


and we are perfect for short stays. We provide full amenities like utensils, pots, etc, which other regular hotels would not. So we consider ourselves an all-suite hotel in that sense. Every singe room, from the smallest to the biggest, has a kitchen,” Mr. Cerqueda explained. Aside from corporate clients, the hotel is also suited for weekend staycation guests.

can take in views of the city that stretch south towards Ninoy Aquino International Airport and beyond the waters of Laguna de Bay. It’s worth getting up early to take in the views at sunrise. At lobby level, which is actually the tower’s 19th floor, is the infinity pool, gym, children’s playroom, and games room. LONG STAYS AND WEEKENDERS. As the first serviced residences of the Seda brand, Seda Residences Makati targets long-staying clients from the corporate sector. Serviced apartments are designed for long stays of 30 days and above and there are four function rooms on the 35th floor. “We use the term residences because all the rooms here are suites,” said General Manager Marc Cerqueda. “This means all the rooms have kitchens and some have washer and dryer. “We are perfect for long stays P H O T O S C O U R T E S Y O F S E D A R E S I D E N C E S M A K AT I

Typical living area in a one-bedroom apartment, and Seda Residences’ lobby

HOME FROM HOME. The Seda Residences is a stylish selfcatering cum hotel option. On some days you might just want to get your own groceries and whip up a meal just like you would at home. On busy or lazy days, there’s food deliveries and takeout service. Housekeeping is great with laundry, but if you need that shirt in an hour, then it’s good to know you can pop it in the quick wash and dry. The two-bedroom premier suite where we stayed was all of 103 sqm and felt like something you could happily make into your own home on a long stay. It’s terribly quiet, no hotel corridor sounds, making it feel very private. The bed, one of the reasons I’d book a SEDA brand anytime, is

ESSENTIALS

SEDA HOTELS is owned and managed by AyalaLand Hotels and Resorts Corporation, the hospitality brand of Ayala Land, Inc., the Philippines’ leading developer of sustainable estates, offering a diverse mix of quality residential and commercial developments that support local economic growth. Seda Residences is located at Ayala Avenue Corner Amorsolo and Salcedo Streets, Legazpi Village, Makati City. Visit www.

luxurious, comfortable and has silky-smooth high-thread count bedlinen. The apartment has an ensuite master bedroom, a second bedroom with two twin beds and its own bathroom, and no shortage of HDTVs, plus a living room, dining room, and kitchenette. The price is not bad either for what you get. A Studio de luxe should cost you from about P5,000 and a two-beDr.oom premier, about P9,000. Serviced apartments range from the 31 sqm studio deluxe to the three-bedroom 143sqm studio premier. VERDICT: It’s a chic home away from home, with the services of a luxury hotel at your finger tips and at your own pace. Its price also makes it a competitive option in the heart of bustling Makati City. NOTE: With the gradual easing of travel and movement restrictions, Seda’s city hotels are allowed to accept select bookings upon presentation of PCR proof of Covid-19 test. Leisure bookings are still not allowed at this time. Restaurants, bars, the pool, gym, and spa remain closed. For more information, please visit www. sedahotels.com.

residencesmakati.sedahotels. com. Seda has 11 properties in the Philippines: Seda Residences Makati; Seda BGC, Taguig; Seda Vertis North, Quezon City; Seda Capitol Central, Bacolod; Seda Centrio, Cagayan de Oro; Seda Ayala Center and Seda Central Bloc, Cebu; Seda Abreeza, Davao; Seda Atria, Iloilo; Seda Nuvali, Laguna; Seda Lio, Palawan. www.sedahotels.com

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HOTEL

The Richmonde Hotel: Right at the heart of Ortigas business district For corporate visitors the location is perfect, but for family staycations and treats there are shops, bars and restaurants on your doorstep

From top, the hotel facade, heated indoor pool, and Richmonde Cafe

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f you need to spend time in the Ortigas business district, either on a corporate trip or a family staycation, it’s all about location. The Richmonde Hotel, on San Miguel Avenue, ticks that box. It’s just off EDSA to the north of Shaw Boulevard and easy walking distance from most of Ortigas’s major landmarks. They include the San Miguel corporate headquarters, the enormous shopping mecca of Megamall, the Stock Exchange, the Asian Development Bank and the shops and restaurants of the new Podium mall, which is a 10-minute walk along ADB Avenue. So, whatever your reasons for visiting, business or pleasure (or both), you’ll find everything in your doorstep. There are small cafes and shops on the same block as the hotel and at the hotel itself there is a health club, business center and top options for wining and dining. You’ll feel at home as soon as you step into the grand lobby, with its marble floors, pale wood furnishings and Muranostyle chandeliers. The staff go that extra yard to be helpful and can arrange everything from

taxis to city tours and restaurant reservations. The Richmonde offers rooms with living areas and kitchenettes that are ideal for corporate clients. The Business Center on the fourth floor offers an extensive range of services covering professional secretarial assistance, couriers and messengers, internet access (although all rooms have WiFi), and telephone services such as message handling. Meeting room reservations and private office rentals are also available. The rooms are spacious, classic and comfortable, often with superb views of the city. You’ll find wooden tables with chairs and plush beds with soft duvets and duck-feather pillows. If you choose a one-bedroom or twobedroom suite— ideal for a longer business stay or a weekend break with the family — there will be living and dining areas and a fully equipped kitchenette. All rooms


INDULGE

The aptly named Lobby Café (7am-7pm) — you’ll see it on your left as you arrive — is an ideal place for an informal drink and snack. Whatever you do, don’t miss the café’s fresh ensaymada. This popular Filipino snack is made with a soft and buttery sweet dough that is baked to become a pillowy bun, which is coated with buttercream frosting and topped with lots of grated cheese. Once you’ve tasted one you won’t be able to resist — and the ensaymada at the Richmonde are known for being among the best in the country.

have WiFi access, LCD TV with cable channels and coffee and teamaking facilities. Rooms start with the standard superior, which has either one queen bed or two single beds. Deluxe rooms are larger, but once again come with either one queen bed or two singles. The hotel’s junior suites have a city room and city views, while the onebedroom suites offer a separate bedroom, a living area complete with an entertainment system, a fully functioning kitchenette, and a dining room. The two-bedroom suites are large enough for a family and have all the comforts of home, with a living area, dining area and kitchen. The first bedroom comes with a queen bed and the second a single bed. On the top floor is the hotel’s crowning glory — the Richmonde Suite. It has breathtaking views of the metropolis, a 10-seater dining table and a mini-conference room, PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE RICHMONDE HOTEL

making it the perfect place for corporate stays and small meetings. The opulent master bedroom has a king-sized bed, walk-in closet, and a deluxe bathroom with bathtub. There is a deluxe twin room adjoining the Richmonde Suite, making it ideal for extra guests. There are three excellent dining options at the Richmonde. The Exchange Bar (4pmmidnight) is a great place to start (or end) the evening. It has live music and a popular happy hour that runs to three hours, from 6pm-9pm. The main restaurant is the Richmonde Café (6am-11pm), which serves an extensive buffet breakfast and weekday buffet lunch. The a la carte menu is international. Try the excellent fresh salmon or a classic Filipino dish such as sinigang (hot and sour tamarind soup). Asian choices include Indonesian satay, and there’s a good choice of pasta.

The hotel’s deluxe twin room

MAKE A WEEKEND OF IT AT THE RICHMONDE. Weekend breaks include therapy weekends from P3,800 per room with free breakfast and use of the health club facilities. For families looking for an affordable staycation it’s ideal, with plenty to do in the hotel itself and the restaurants and shops of Ortigas on your doorstep. The Richmonde has a health club with a heated indoor pool (6am-9pm) and a gym (6am-9pm) which is one of the best in the area. It features top-of-the-line strength training and cardiovascular equipment. The professional and qualified gym instructors can offer advice and design personal exercise programs. And when you’ve had a good workout and pampered yourself, the shops, restaurants and bars of Ortigas are only a few steps away.

ESSENTIALS

RICHMONDE HOTEL ORTIGAS now accepts select guest bookings. For inquiries and reservations, please call +632 8638 7777 or email rhoreservations@richmondehotel.com.ph, or visit www.richmondehotelortigas.com.ph. The hotel also accepts orders for take-out and deliveries. Call, text, or viber +63 917 859 7914. Richmonde is located at 21 San Miguel Avenue, Ortigas Center, Pasig City, 1600, Metro Manila, Philippines.

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INDULGE

HOTEL

Hue Hotel: A super-styled hotel with an island vibe

If you’re to pick one boutique hotel in Puerto Princesa to call home, pick this one, says Giselle Dalton

F

IRST IMPRESSIONS. As our van pulled up in front of Hue Hotel, the first thing I saw was the word “Hue” in 3D white rising from the grass in front of the hotel driveway. The hotel itself looked like a cubist painting in neutral colors. The reception felt quite open, with views of the greenery outside, plenty of seating, the breeze flowing in freely, and lots of light streaming in.

Hue’s deluxe room

ROOMS. The corridor to our appointed two-person suite room was very pleasant, my eyes drawn to the beautiful tiles, a refreshing change from the usual carpeted, air-conditioned hotel corridors. Hue has only 122 rooms, and ours is beautifully designed to create a modern, island vibe. The general neutral palette is broken by vibrant colours provided by the round area rug, cushions, headboard, and sofa. The suite room has a huge bed that can comfortably fit four, and a sliding door that opens out to a 16

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mature garden. In the mornings, I would usually open the door to hear the birds sing while I sip my first cup of coffee, looking at the huge trees and tropical plants. It’s hard to believe we’re in the middle of Puerto Princesa City, the capital Palawan. No sound of traffic, just birds, and some hooting sound. FOOD AND BEVERAGE. If you’re to order only a few things from the hotel’s Laud Restaurant, order Chef Nonoy’s beef tapa with garlic rice and the baby back ribs, pork ribs marinated in homemade adobo hot chilli sauce, and chicken binakol. For dessert, don’t miss turon halo-halo made with banana, macapuno, ube, mongo and ube ice cream, and the equally delicious carioca and mangoes, sticky rice

served with sweet mangoes. Another personal favorite is the halo-halo (local dessert made of crushed ice, milk, ube, sweetened beans, coconut strips and other fruit slices). IN-ROOM SPA. The hotel’s Amihan spa is excellent, offering in-room service. We had dinner at about 7pm and scheduled an in-room spa service at about 9pm, timed to put us in a restful mode just before sleep. The masseuses arrived on time. I asked for a combination Shiatsu and reflexology massage. The therapists brought towels and essential oils with them. Stretched out in bed after a day’s hectic activity, I surrendered to the kneading, long strokes, and application of pressure


The hotel’s lobby area near the reception, swimming pool, and Laud Restaurant

along my spine, hands, and feet. Before I knew it, I was almost fast asleep. If you fancy a manicure and pedicure with your massage, just let the hotel know. SERVICE. The staff are warm, friendly, and efficient. I desperately needed to have my laundry sorted for a business meeting the following day, and housekeeping delivered. The front desk was very helpful, offering to arrange our online check-in for our flight back to Manila and transport service within the city. WiFi here is great, with strong signal in our room.

toiletries, go to the pharmacy, or do some shopping. VERDICT. Highly recommended. I’d definitely be back.

ESSENTIALS HUE HOTEL is at Km. 3 Puerto Princesa North Rd, Bgy. San Manuel, Puerto Princesa City, Not to miss: Laud

5300 Palawan, Philippines, www.

Restaurant’s chicken

puertoprincesa.thehuehotel.

binakol

com, tel +63 2 8896 9999. As of press time, the hotel accepts select bookings allowed by the government. Laud Restaurant is open for takeout and delivery.

LOCATION. Hue is only a few minutes walk to Puerto Princesa’s Robinson Mall, which is a plus if you do need to pick up groceries, PHOTOS COURTESY OF HUE HOTEL

Call 0966 256 1625 for orders. Check out Laud’s menu on @ HuePuertoPrincesa on Facebook.

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RESORT

Glamping on one of the best beaches in Asia

Nacpan, a short road trip to the north of El Nido town in Palawan, is laid back, unspoiled and the perfect place to get back to nature under canvas P H O T O S BY L A L A M A G B U H AT

W

e realise when we arrive at Nacpan Beach that our timing could have been better. We left Manila on the earliest flight — an effort to beat the worst of the capital’s notorious traffic — and arrived at Lio Airport near El Nido at the kind of time I’d turn over and go back to sleep for an hour if I was at home. Our transport is waiting and less than an hour later we have arrived at the resort, where people are still milling around the breakfast buffet or pouring their first coffee of the day. The problem is, it’s so early our room — okay, our tent — isn’t ready. Check out is not until midday and it’s still got to be cleaned. What to do? My wife finds the solution. In a small garden, behind the restaurant, is a shady nipa hut where they are offering massage and spa services. The prices are temptingly provincial, a few hundred pesos, so we pile in and sign up for a two-hour massage each. As they massage, we snooze. When it’s over, I feel fit enough to 18

All tents are just a few steps from the beach

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run a marathon. But I don’t. Our tent is ready, so we move in. We are staying at Nacpan Beach Glamping, about 20km north of Lio Airport (starting point for our trip to el Nido and the beautiful islands of the Bacuit Archipelago) on a paved road. For most of the way at least. When we turn off the highway, there’s a few kilometers of unsealed, pockmarked dirt road. The silver lining is that Nacpan Beach itself remains relatively unspoiled. Backpackers on hired motorbikes venture out for the day from El Nido. There are a few small resorts and a few laidback restaurants. Apart from that there’s just the beach itself: a 4km crescent that from Nacpan Beach Glamping stretches north, almost disappearing into a fine, nebulous mist thrown by the waves. The beach is the main attraction, almost the only attraction. There don’t seem to be any water sports and there are no shops or bars. Boracay must have been like this in a previous life. Visitors eat

breakfast and swim, they eat lunch and take a siesta, they wake up and swim again. Before sunset the activity on the beach seems to ramp up a little, but it’s still nowhere near busy. Local children play, joined by a few curious but harmless dogs, and a handful of hawkers wander up and down offering pearls for sale. Tourists grab a drink and settle down for the sunset. Nacpan Beach faces due west, so the views as the sky changes from veiny blue to deep apricot and coral pink are enough to make you delirious. Nacpan Beach Glamping offers complimentary sunset sailing at 5pm every day for guests. Private sailing trips and romantic dinners on the beach can also be arranged. It’s hardly surprising that Nacpan Beach is gaining something of a cult following. It was chosen by the UK’s The Telegraph as one of the dreamiest beaches on earth. “This is the most spectacular beach in Palawan, a remote and pristine archipelago


INDULGE

of limestone cliffs and whitesand islets in the north of the Philippines,” it said. Nacpan Beach Glamping is the best place to stay. It’s a few steps from the beach, but sitting in its own tropical garden and close to the Nacpan Sunmai Restaurant, where glamping guests get a buffet breakfast and there’s a good a la carte menu all day. The resort has nine huge glamping tents nestled in a peaceful tropical garden of hundreds of palm trees and shrubs. Forget cramped nights under soggy canvas on school trips. The fact that you’re staying in a tent doesn’t mean you need to sacrifice style or size. These are more like traditional Mongolian yurts, but much bigger (bigger than a standard double room in most hotels), and fitted with high-end interiors including air-conditioning and queen size beds. You have a choice of either beachfront view or mountain view, but either way you’re only a short

walk from the shore. There are nine tents available for occupancy, with nine more scheduled to open in October. The tents are sturdy too, made from 360gsm (that’s grams per square meter and is the metric measurement of the weight of a fabric) canvas and heavy-duty cotton canvas. They are fitted with zipped mesh windows and PVC windows, allowing you the choice of enjoying the cool sea breeze or zipping up to let the aircon do its work. You’ll feel like a Bedouin king (or queen). The interiors are simple but beautifully chic and comfortable, with a neutral color scheme and plenty of space to relax. There are two comfortable designer seats, two pouffes, a small table, Japanese paper pendant light, bedside lamps, fridge freezer, one big electric fan and three smaller fans. Airconditioning is available only at night. There’s a small safe for your valuables. The toilet and shower are shared,

Stylish tent interior, the pool, and Nacpan Beach, one of Palawan’s finest beaches

with eight toilet and shower blocks in various parts of the site. They are accessed by a network of walkways, which are well-lit at night, so don’t worry if you’ve forgotten your torch. Each toilet and shower are shared by two to three tents and there’s a convenient wash area outside every tent where you can wash the sand off your feet and have a quick freshen up. On our first full day we wake early and walk on the beach in the buttery dawn light, joined only by the occasional jogger and a small, shy dog. We swim, drink coffee and, as we are walking back to our tent to change, are told that turtle hatchlings are about to be released. If we want to watch we should meet outside in 15 minutes. The resort has a turtle hatchery and this is the result. A few hundred green turtles, each small enough to fit easily in the palm of your hand, scuttling towards the water’s edge, guided by magnetic forces and instinct. Classified as endangered, these turtles are threatened by overharvesting of their eggs, hunting of adults, being caught in fishing gear and loss of nesting beach sites. So far, staff at the Nacpan hatchery have released more than 10,000 hatchlings. The percentage of those that will make it to adulthood is low, but those that do might well return to Nacpan to lay their own eggs.

ESSENTIALS

NACPAN BEACH GLAMPING is at Nacpan Beach, El Nido, www.nacpanbeachglamping. com, tel +63 956 234 0162. An overnight stay in a beachfront glamping tent for two costs from about P11,000 a night. (Rates may change so please check the resort’s website.)

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Dr. Pie Calayan, top, is the best person to consult with if you want to go for Ultherapy

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Beauty and the wand: Does Ultherapy really work?

This non-invasive, face lifting treatment, offered by the pioneering Manny and Pie Calayan Clinic, uses micro-focused ultrasound to rebuild your collagen levels, with visible results in two to six months

I

f I said I knew of a sure-fire way to improve your skin and bring back its firmness, minimise lines without any surgery, and all you’ve got to do is 20

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lie down while skilled clinicians run a device called the transducer — a wand much like that used to scan pregnant women — on your face and neck, would you do it?

The treatment takes a couple of hours with the first hour dedicated to prepping your face, cleansing, and the application of topical anaesthesia. I had to wait for about an hour for the anaesthesia to kick in before my Ultherapy Premier “face-ironing” procedure began. I was told I might experience little pricks like ant bites and if I felt any discomfort, I should press a device, a Percocet, in my hand. It triggers a pulsating sensation, distracting the holder from the source of discomfort. It’s most effective if placed on the crook of your shoulder. I was pretty laidback about the procedure, approaching it more like


a facial spa treatment. Apparently, I’d see the results, gradually, anywhere from two to six months because our collagen levels take time to build up. And the magic is that the results from a Manny and Pie Calayan clinic Ultherapy Premier should last up to two years. The Ultherapy Premier procedure is something you need to leave to the pros; people who understand the facial anatomy and are trained to wield the magic wand. As soon as all the prepping was done, Dr. Pie and Bernice Calayan entered the treatment room, chatting amiably. Dr. Pie is one of the pioneers in the beauty industry. She holds a degree in Medicine and specializes in Dermatology so I couldn’t be in better hands. Bernice, Dr. Pie’s daughter is a licensed medical aesthetician. Dr. Pie started work on my left face, down to my neck, all the time engaging me in small talk. All throughout the treatment I felt surprisingly relaxed, finding the procedure rather soothing, with a few pin pricks here and there. Any discomfort was easily tolerable. I felt more like I was having face reflexology. Others may experience differently. Once the left side of my face was done, Bernice took over, running the Ulthera device on the right side of my face, my jaw and neck. While the procedure took place, both clinicians were guided by ultrasound imaging on a computer screen, showing them the area of my skin that needed the most attention. So, what is Ultherapy? Ultherapy uses micro-focused ultrasound to inflict thermal injury up to 4.5 millimeters deep in the skin of the face, neck, and décolleté to stimulate collagen production. P H O T O S BY R O N M E N D O Z A

The future of dermatology: DNA testing and a holistic approach to beauty

Doctor Manny Calayan is known for introducing liposuction in the Philippines

After the treatment, I didn’t feel any pain at all. My face felt tender. I was advised not to wash my face for 24 hours. The next few days, I felt some mild bruising on my face, but this did not last long. After a month, my brutally honest cousins told me my face had slimmed down. After two months, people commented that my face look noticeably firmer and smoother. Bernice said some clients in their 20s and 30s undergo Ultherapy to reshape their chin and contour their faces. About a million Ultherapy procedures have already been done worldwide and it’s the only FDA-approved non-invasive procedure to lift the skin. For now, it remains the Holy Grail of non-invasive cosmetic procedures, with no down time. I left the clinic feeling great. My face was a little flushed, looking like I just had a facial on my lunch break. - - G I S E L L E D A LT O N

ESSENTIALS

The cost of one whole face and neck Ultherapy Premier session is P120,000. The Manny and Pie Calayan Clinic has branches at TriNoma Mall, Quezon City, Festival Mall, Alabang, and Medical Plaza, Makati. For more information, visit www. mannyandpiecalayanclinic. com or find them on Facebook @mannyandpiecalayanclinic.

AFTER 25 YEARS in the cosmetic surgery and dermatological industry, the Manny and Pie Calayan clinic is tweaking its approach to skin care and beauty treatments. At the heart of the change is the integration of dermatology and holistic medicine, giving way to the introduction of DNA testing and the use of one’s genetic profile in drawing up a personalised skin care and health program. The holistic approach treats the underlying causes of an individual’s skin or beauty problem by looking at environmental and nutritional factors, gut microbiome, and exposure to stresses. Bernice Calayan, certified in Advanced Naturopathy and a licensed medical aesthetician, said that “creams fail oftentimes in cases like acne, so we treat the gut first, reduce the inflammation, and see how this affects the skin.” DNA testing at the clinic is done through Fitgenes (www.fitgenes.com) to aid beauty and healthy aging. Dr. Pie Calayan, who founded the clinic with husband Dr. Manny Calayan, said holistic medicine is now very much part of their practice with the introduction of Fitgenes’ DNA testing, Ondamed which uses pulsed electromagnetic field therapeutic devices to help with pain relief and wound healing, and acupuncture. Several new technologies are also being introduced. NEW TECHNOLOGIES. Dr. Manny Calayan, a pioneering cosmetic surgeon, said lunch time procedures with no downtime is what clients prefer. Among the clinic’s offerings are Ultherapy Premier, and VaserLiposuction using ultrasound waves to break down fat deposits, changing the body’s contour with no down time. Manny Calayan introduced Vaser Liposuction in the Philippines about 10 years ago and is one of only three doctors specializing in this field in the country. Another service introduced this year is nonsurgical hair treatment or mesohair restoration, which promotes hair growth without surgery, the first in the country. “We are also introducing the latest breast implants that are of high quality silicon gel, are more resilient, more natural looking, and safe. In the area of weight reduction, the clinic is introducing Mesofat injection, using laser to reduce weight non-surgically. Our rhinoplasty looks natural. It’s a permanent solution that melds into the nasal bone, becoming part of the patient’s body,” he said. All treatments are done by Doctors Manny and Pie, and Bernice Calayan, allowing them to give the best quality care.

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Lagen's lush forest and cottages by the water

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On his first visit in 20 years, David Dalton finds El Nido’s Lagen Island resort in Palawan still casts its spell P H O T O S BY D AV I D D A LT O N A N D E L NI D O R E S O R T S

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El Nido town, the

IT DOESN’T TAKE LONG FOR PALAWAN to cast its spell. On our first evening, after an early flight from Manila, we are

asleep by nine. The next day, we wake before dawn, not to the tyrannical beeping of email alerts and WhatsApp notifications, but to the quavering trill of birdsong and the susurration of waves. On the verandah, in the pearly half-light, we sit and watch an olive-backed sunbird feed on the nectar of a potted bougainvillea. We are at Lagen Island in Bacuit Bay, about an hour by boat from the little airport at El Nido which is served by daily AirSWIFT flights from Manila and the only airline that flies directly to El Nido, Palawan. I was last here 20 years ago and it has changed little. This is a good thing. El Nido, and the busy little coastal town of the same name, is backpackerInstagram nirvana. If the selfie industry had an annual conference, it would take place on the beaches and lagoons of El Nido. This is “Wow!” This is “dreamy.” This is “STILL ON MY LIST!!!” Lagen Island resort, its pretty white cottages set on stilts in a lagoon of celeste blue, is a world of its own. From all those years ago I remembered a place that was professionally tropical, where guests can relax without the unctuous attention that so many resorts think is a sign of class. Everything works as it should, but in a no-fuss Filipino way that adds to the charm. Guests are pretty much left to their own devices, safe in the knowledge that if watching the sunrise becomes too taxing, there are plenty of activities, and staff to help you organize them. It’s the peace I remembered most. At dawn Lagen is so preternaturally still, bathed in honeyed light, that we could be preserved in agar. 24

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jump off point to Bacuit Bay's whitefringed islands


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Ultimate luxury: Lagen's cottages facing the water

What noise there is comes from the gentle putput of the occasional boat engine and the belligerent cawing of an arboreal black bird that we never manage to identify. The wildlife alone is worth the trip. Shoals of grouper gather in the shade of our cottage while a reef egret watches keenly, stalking the shore on its osseous, knotty legs. On the way to breakfast on our second day I find myself staring down a large macaque. He (or she) regards me with indifference and after a few minutes saunters off into the mangroves. I look for him every morning at the same time, but he never returns. Lagen Island is one of three resorts — the others are Miniloc and Pangulasian — owned and operated by Metro Manila-based El Nido Resorts around the Bacuit archipelago, a small chain of about 45 islands and islets in northwest Palawan. A fourth resort, Apulit, is off the east coast of mainland Palawan, but

also reached through AirSWIFT flights to El Nido. Make no mistake, these are high-end destinations. Paradise does not always come cheap, but what you pay for, you get. At the airport we are welcomed with cold drinks and native snacks like bibingka, a deliciously sticky coconut rice cake. Our baggage is spirited onto a boat and we head south, past El Nido town — the area’s main tourist base — and the distant outlines of islands with names that seem to come from another world: Pinagbuyutan, Entalula and Inambuyod. There are more drinks when we arrive, and lunch is already being served in the restaurant, which overlooks a large swimming pool. Lagen packages include three buffet meals a day. For a resort on an island in the middle of nowhere, hours from the closest shops, the kitchen staff do a sterling job. The chef grills fish the length of baseball bats and carves up the firm, coppery flesh. There are soups, 2 0 2 0 | VOLU M E 7 I S S U E 2 5 | I N F L IG H T T R AV E L L E R |

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The Clubhouse Restaurant facing the pool and sea. Opposite, Lagen's calm, blue waters

stews, curries and noodles. It’s been way too long since I last visited the Philippines, but every local dish I see instantaneously brings back a memory: the tomotey tang of kaldereta and the garlicky bite of mami, a soup whose curative properties are legend in Filipino households. We quickly learn that an early breakfast has benefits. The warm ensaymada are delicious, but are first to go. On our last day I guiltily take two for the boat trip back to Lio Airport. And so within a day of our arrival we are on natural, biological, Earth time. We wake with the birds, photograph the sunrise, swim in the pool, drink coffee overlooking the lagoon, then head to the restaurant for breakfast. After breakfast we swim some more, or sit on our balcony reading. At this point I feel smug enough to announce that I have done everything I want to do for the day. When I check the time, it is not yet ten o’clock.

Days are long, but in the most satisfying, salubrious, way. Too long at Lagen and you could die of an overdose of good health. For the first time in years I find myself sleeping through the night and waking to the thought that first light is breaking and for a few hours I will probably have the pool to myself. Lagen encourages a certain amount of languorousness, but there are plenty of activities, including kayaking, scuba diving and island-hopping tours. We deliberately schedule a private early islandhopping tour and arrive at Small Lagoon at seven o’clock when it is still deserted. From our outrigger we kayak through a concealed hole in the limestone scarp and into a natural auditorium of dazzlingly blue water. Later, at Snake Island, we swim from a powdery sandbar and drink fresh coconut bought from local villagers, before heading to Lagen’s sister resort, Miniloc, for lunch. Here, at the end of a pier, we


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F E AT U R E

Kayaking at Lagen Island, and top, Snake island

snorkel among immense jackfish. They show little fear, buzzing us curiously from below as we scull around in A WA L K O N T H E W IL D S ID E their midst. Many of the activities at Lagen are understandably water-based, but don’t miss the opportunity to follow the marked path from Lagen through the dense forest behind the resort and to a second beach, south of the resort itself. The walk is less than 2 km, but is steep in places and in the heat can be challenging. Take water and wear sensible shoes (tip: don’t try it in sandals or flip-flops). The resort arranges daily walks with a guide. It’s easy to forget, lying by the pool, or swimming in Lagen’s lagoon, that the island’s interior is jungle. The walk will take you past immense acacia and silk cotton trees, up a steep hill and then down through a gulley and out at the beach, where you can have a picnic and swim. If you don’t fancy the walk back, staff will fetch you by boat. If you’re lucky you’ll catch a glimpse of some of the area’s endemic wildlife. Macaques scuttle in the treetops and there are hornbill, peacock-pheasant and smaller species such as babblers and sunbirds. If you’re interested n birdlife staff can arrange birdwatching tours. There are also mangrove tours by kayak. Lagen has a gym, a spa, a library, billiards, volleyball S U S TA IN A B L E T O U R I S M E F F O R T S and table tennis. Should you need it there’s a clinic. El Nido Resort Group's Pangulasian Island Resort recently won Conde Nast Traveler Middle East’s Gold List Award for 2020, an award recognizing 2 0 2 0 | VOLU M E 7 I S S U E 2 5 | I N F L IG H T T R AV E L L E R |

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Lagen's Forest Suite, and bottom, Water Cottage

environmentally friendly hotels around the world. Conde Nast recognized its green initiatives, from water and energy conservation to coastal cleanups, wildlife protection and EcoReefs to help replenish coral. El Nido Resorts’ sustainable tourism efforts include the setting up of its own sewage treatment plant, its own recovery facility handling all waste materials from the resorts and recycling and composting where possible. Compost from the facility are used to fertilize the resorts’ organic farm, which now has eight plastic greenhouses producing lettuce and arugula. Corn, tomatoes, green beans (sitaw), squash, cucumber, and eggplant are also grown next to the greenhouses. Papayas and pineapples bear fruit for the resorts and there’s no shortage of supply of herbs, from basil, tarragon, to mint. The farm also keeps pigs. They are fed leftover produce that are not sent to the resorts. The pigs drink from a trickling spout instead of a large trough to conserve water. Nothing is wasted. Solar panels are installed in the Entalula and Dibuluan Beach Clubs, as well as in Pangulasian Island Resort’s club carts and staff house. Resort staff installed and maintain mooring buoys in 21 sites around Bacuit Bay. These are especially important in avoiding damage to corals. An especially heartwarming program is El Nido’s turtle hatchery and protection program. Specific conservation actions include ensuring beachfront lighting does not cause disorientation of hatchlings, and conducting active sea turtle patrols by staff help to protect nests, hatchlings, and adult turtles from poaching and other key threats. This year El Nido Resorts and the Lio Tourism Estate became the first in the world to be awarded the Sea Turtle Friendly Tourism Certification by the Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network (WFEN). At Lagen, there is no single plastic in use. 30

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Discover Our Dining Destinations Forno Osteria Sands Restaurant Indigo Restaurant

Station 1, Balabag, Boracay Island 5608 Malay, Aklan www.discoveryshoresboracay.com


Situated at Station 2, Boracay Island, Philippines, the Hue Hotels and Resorts offer hip and vibrant stays that bring color to leisure. A perfect spot to chill out, this 126-room lifestyle resort boasts distinctive architecture complimented by wide, open spaces. A spectrum of unique choices await, including a tropical poolside bar, a unique mix of retail and dining establishments to make your stay more exciting! Come and experience a new shade of comfort and leisure right in the heart of Boracay.

BORACAY Station 2, Main Road, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan, Philippines 5608 (+63 36) 286 29 00 boracayreservations@thehuehotel.com www.boracay.thehuehotel.com

MANILA OFFICE Y2 Residence Hotel 4687 Santiago Street Cor. Valdez and Singian Streets, Makati City (+63 2) 8869 99 99 reservations@thehuehotel.com www.thehuehotel.com




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