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EDITOR’S LETTER

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PHOTOS RACHEL HENDERSON, ISTOCK

ruth universally a owers make you feel better. (If that sounds a bit Jane Austen, you might be right.) When I am glum, I know that a vase of something, however modest or short-lived, placed on the kitchen bench where I chop food and wash dishes and ruminate on all the doleful details, is a reliable way to flip the mood curve. If only it were so easy to flip that other curve we’ve had to live with...

This dismal year demands innovative coping strategies, and one Jackie French has dreamt up (page 58) is to bring back the buttonhole flower. Before you sniff at how 19th century that is, or think it’s only 18-year-olds going to their school formal who wear corsages these days (well, it used to be, but I don’t think many kids are going to a school formal this year), forget all that, and especially the corsage bit, because that’s not what Jackie means.

She’s talking about a single bloom picked from your own garden and popped into a chest pocket or, as she says, with so man of us in trackpants and T-shirts, attached with a pin.

The point is to have a little bit of something nice to notice every time you glance down, and as it travels around with y I guess it’s a bit like having a dopamine drip attached. A hit a happy drug every now and then to punctuate the gloom.

We’ve gone full floral this issue, with growing guides for diverse mix of flowering plants, and two profiles of passion flower growers. Brenda of Picton works on the basis of us thrillers, spillers and fillers when making a flower arrangem while Pam of Tamborine Mountain gives away bunches of flowers to strangers passing by when she’s out the front picking a posy. Then there’s Michael McCoy’s fabulous story on how to create your first perennial patch, complete with a design diagram and plant lists. Tuck in!

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OCTOBER 2020

CONTENTS

58

For all your top jobs in the garden this month, turn to page 66

ON TH

42 E

E COV R

COVER STORIES

COMPETITIONS + READER OFFERS

14 Dahlias 20 Boronia

64 Subscribe now to receive a free Gardening Australia 2021 diary or calendar, valued at $19.95 each

24 Desert rose 26 Brugmansia 30 Passionate flower growers 42 Your first perennial patch 48 Bee-friendly garden 53 Three ways to test your soil 58 Buttonhole flowers 66 Spring jobs to do now 77 Potted ginger Pompon dahlias are one of the myriad forms of this popular flower. Plant yours now â&#x20AC;&#x201C; see page 14 for details.

Photo: Gap Photos/Juliette Wade

80 Capsicum

76

85 Win one of five Fruit Salad Trees, with lemons and oranges growing on the same tree, worth $69.95 86 Solve the crossword and unscramble the word for a chance to win one of 10 Saba Organics packs, each valued at $56

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 9

OCTOBER 20

14

26 48 30

53

FEATURES

14 Summer dalliance Big, bold or blousy, dahlias add vibrant colour to garden beds and vases well into autumn 20 Prepare to pamper Native boronias are one of those groups of plants that are worth the extra fuss 24 Star performer The desert rose is an easy-care succulent with a striking trunk and masses of rose-like flowers 26 Floral fanfare Grow a brugmansia, or angel’s trumpet, for its spectacular, pendulous blooms 30 Meet the flower growers Two inspirational home gardeners share their passion for flowers 10 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

42 Create your first perennial patch Expert guidance for designing and planting perennials, with a practical example to get you started 48 Make your garden bee friendly Ten tips for creating a welcoming and safe space for bees to thrive 53 Know your soil How to understand the nature of your soil with a few simple tests 60 The gardener’s bucket list Leura in the Blue Mountains, New South Wales

80

REGULARS

12 Marketplace New plants to buy 58 At home with Jackie Wearing buttonhole flowers is a cheap and cheerful way to brighten dark days 66 Action planner What to do in your garden in October 75 In the patch • Plant okra • Pick mulberry • Grow ginger in a pot • Step-by-step for planting zucchini • Helping hand: how to prevent dry lemons and manage spined citrus bug • Grow capsicum 82 Mailbox Your letters, photos, questions 86 Crossword 88 TV & radio guide Your ABC 89 The directory 98 The big picture

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For detailed information visit renaissancetours.com.au, call 1300 727 095 or contact your travel agent.

CREDITS: Old Wesley Dale © Scott Wilson; MIllthorpe garden photo courtesy of Regional Lifestyle Magazine photographer Angus Waddell

Garden tours around Australia

EDITOR Jenny Baldwin HORTICULTURAL EDITOR Phil Dudman ART DIRECTOR Rachel Henderson CHIEF SUBEDITOR Liani Solari SUBEDITOR Gina Hetherington EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Carole Gridley HORTICULTURAL CONSULTANT Marianne Cannon ABC TV HOST Costa Georgiadis PRESENTERS Josh Byrne, Tino Carnevale, Jerry Coleby-Williams, Jane Edmanson, Millie Ross, Clarence Slockee, Sophie Thomson CONTRIBUTORS Steve Ball, AB Bishop, Karyn Couper-Smith, Brenda Cunningham, Sally Feldman, Jackie French, Pam Glucina, Judy Horton, Michael McCoy, Martyn Robinson, Luke Simon, Jennifer Stackhouse, Fiona Walsh ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Anabel Tweedale, atweedale@nextmedia.com.au Phone (02) 9901 6371 DIRECTORIES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Alora Edwards, aedwards@nextmedia.com.au Phone (02) 9901 6101 ACCOUNT MANAGER Annya Azzopardi, aazzopardi@nextmedia.com.au Phone (02) 9901 6320 PRODUCTION MANAGER Peter Ryman PRODUCTION AND DIGITAL SERVICES MANAGER Jonathan Bishop EXECUTIVE PRODUCER ABC TV Gill Lomas HEAD PUBLISHING AND LICENSING ABC COMMERCIAL Lisa Hunter BRAND MANAGER ABC MAGAZINES Jenni Powell SUBSCRIPTION SALES AND ENQUIRIES 1300 361 146, gardeningaustralia.com.au EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES yoursay@gardeningaustralia.com.au Phone (02) 9901 6325 NEXTMEDIA PTY LTD Locked Bag 5555, St Leonards NSW 1590 Phone (02) 9901 6100 GM CONSUMER PUBLISHING Carole Jones MANAGING DIRECTOR Arek Widawski ISSN: 1325-1465 ABC Gardening Australia magazine is published by nextmedia Pty Ltd (ACN 128 805 970) under licence from the publisher, the Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC), and is subject to copyright in its entirety. ‘ABC’ and the ‘Wave’ and ‘Gardening Australia’ trademarks are used under licence from the ABC. The contents may not be reproduced in any form, either in whole or part, without written permission from the publisher. All rights reserved in material accepted for publication unless specified otherwise. All letters and other material forwarded to the magazine will be assumed intended for publication unless clearly labelled not for publication. nextmedia and the publisher do not accept responsibility for damage to, or loss of, submitted material. Opinions expressed in ABC Gardening Australia magazine are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of nextmedia or the publisher.

No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. No liability is accepted by nextmedia, the publisher, nor the authors for any information contained herein.

All endeavours are made to ensure accuracy and veracity of all content and advice herein, but neither ABC Gardening Australia magazine nor its publisher or contributors is responsible for damage or harm, of whatever description, resulting from persons undertaking any advice or using any product mentioned or advertised in ABC Gardening Australia magazine or its website.

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New release Zanzibar Zenzii (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) is a compact form of the popular indoor plant Zanzibar Gem. Like the original, it has dark, glossy leaves, but shorter, thicker and more robust stems, creating a lush look that’s perfect for a desk or side table.

It copes very well with low light, and needs only occasional watering because of its large, water-storing rhizome. This plant virtually thrives on neglect. amazone.com.au

MARKETPLACE

Clematis is a show stopper in the garden with its large, spectacular flowers.

New on the scene, Clematis ‘Barbara Harrington’ has dense foliage and deep fuchsia-pink blooms as big as your hand. It is quick to establish on a pergola or trellis, and is covered in flowers from midsummer to autumn. Growing to 3m high and 1m wide, this deciduous climber is gentle enough to clamber up a tree or a climbing rose. Like all clematis, it thrives with good drainage in a cooler climate, and the roots need to be kept cool and moist. Grow it in full sun or semi-shade. tesselaar.net.au

ON T

H

If you prefer blue hues in the garden, Clematis ‘Belle of Taranaki’ makes an excellent choice with its enormous bluish-purple, double blooms. This fast-growing climber repeat-flowers, with the first flush appearing in late spring and early summer, then another in late summer or early autumn. It grows in full sun or semi-shade, reaching 2.4m high and 1m wide, and requires that you give it only a light prune in winter, cutting it back to two strong buds. Provided with good drainage and a cool root run, this clematis gives months of colour. tesselaar.net.au

HELF ES

PLANTS

This month’s pick of the bunch for garden lovers nationwide A striking new addition to the Aloha Mandevilla range, ‘Bright White’ is a tropical climber that can also be trained to form a small shrub.

Long-lasting tubular white blooms with a glowing yellow throat appear in the warmer months, contrasting beautifully with the plant’s glossy, dark green leaves. Grow it in the ground or a pot, in full sun or semi-shade. ramm.com.au

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 13

PLANT THEM NOW

dalliance

PLANTS

Dahlias are big, blousy and back in fashion, whether they’re growing in the garden or looking fabulous indoors in a vase. Best of all, these bold blooms linger into autumn, writes JENNIFER STACKHOUSE

PHOTO GAP PHOTOS/DAVE ZUBRASKI

D

ahlias are the classic ugly duckling of the plant world. From elongated, rather odd-looking tubers, they rise to produce tall stems of lush leaves and flamboyant flowers within a few months of planting.

Easy to grow, these bushy perennials add spectacular colour to the garden, with most flowering throughout summer and autumn.

The flowers come in a huge range of gorgeous colours, from bright and vibrant to soft and pretty, and many different forms, so there really is something for everyone.

Introduced to European horticulture from Mexico in the late 18th century, dahlias then spread to Australia’s colonial gardens.

Those early dahlias had single flowers, but after centuries of breeding and selection, modern dahlias – mainly hybrids between Dahlia coccinea and D. pinnata – are known for their large, full flowers in bold colours, including yellow, orange, red, burgundy, pink and white, and some are multicoloured.

There are 29 classes for hybrid dahlias, including single and many differently shaped doubles with flat, spiky, tubular or quill-shaped petals. Of the myriad dahlia classes, about 10 are regularly sold and seen in gardens. Popular styles of dahlia flowers include Single, Cactus, Pompon, Collarette and Waterlily.

Although known as big flowers, not all dahlias are big. The Pompon group has small, perfect balls of flowers on stout stems. Also eye-catching are the Collarette dahlias. These medium-sized flowers are basically single, but have a central ring of extra petals, often in a contrasting colour to the rest of the flower, and a bright golden boss of stamens.

Popular in gardens right now are coloured foliage forms with single to MAIN Tall, bright pink dahlias add sizzle to a summer border of daisies, hosta, petunia, sisyrinchium and eryngium.

at a glance

common name dahlia

botanic name Dahlia hybrid cultivars

30cm–1.2m 30–80cm full sun, semi-shade spring summer to autumn

suitable

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 15

PLANTS

getting started

Just like tomatoes, dahlias are planted in spring or early summer after all threat of frost has passed. According to gardening lore, the magic planting date is after Melbourne Cup Day for southern Australia, but tubers can be planted from mid-October until early December.

Tubers can be found at garden centres or online, but also look for them at garden clubs, plant stalls and fetes.

Plant the tubers in a sunny, sheltered spot. Full morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal for dahlias. As they like lots of nutrients, enrich the soil before planting by digging in well-rotted cow manure or compost. Add lime to acidic soils to raise the soil pH. Before planting, take a careful look at the tuber. At one end is a point known as the ‘neck’ or ‘nose’. This is where shoots appear from ‘eyes’, which are the growth points that form at the base of last season’s stem. Lay the tuber horizontally with the shoots (‘eyes’) upwards, and bury it 10cm deep. Most dahlias are tall plants (some varieties are more than 1m high) with brittle stems, so staking is recommended. Use a tomato stake, putting it in position then planting the tuber beside it with the neck close to the stake.

If you blanch at the idea of having a garden full of stakes, there are more graceful options. Dahlias can be trained on a trellis or supported with perennial frames. Or you could even grow them for cut flowers in the vegetable patch, 16 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

where a row of stakes doesn’t look out of place. Space them 30cm apart.

In the garden, dahlias mix well with roses and herbaceous perennials, but allow plenty of space for the plants to grow upwards and outwards.

care & maintenance

Apply a complete fertiliser when your dahlias are shooting and growing. As the stems form, tie them carefully to the stakes or other support. The plants must be well watered through summer (they’ll wilt rather dramatically if they dry out), and should be regularly deadheaded to remove spent blooms and keep new ones coming. Also, tip-prune the plants to keep them compact.

The first frost brings these cold-sensitive plants to a halt. They’ll be flowering merrily one day, then turn to brown mush the next.

As the weather gets cold in late autumn, or after frost, cut down old growth. In most gardens, it’s safe to leave the tubers in the ground, but they should be lifted and divided in early spring. Left undivided, plants regrow each year, but the clump becomes large and the flowers get smaller.

Excess tubers can be given to friends or planted elsewhere.

pests & disease

Dahlias are surprisingly tough and resilient.

Pests include all the common pests of summer, but particularly grasshoppers, snails, slugs and earwigs, which hide in the flowers. Grasshoppers are difficult to manage, but can be caught early in the day before they warm up – and they make great food for poultry.

Manage snails and slugs with iron-based baits (to reduce the risk to pets or wildlife) and conduct a regular snail hunt to discover small snails hiding in the foliage or around the flowers. Snails and slugs are active in the evening, especially after rain.

PHOTOS ISTOCK, GAP PHOTOS/THOMAS ALAMY, GAP PHOTOS/PERNILLA BERGDAHL

semi-double flowers in red, yellow or orange, such as ‘Bishop of Llandaff’.

This variety from the 1920s, which has helped to bring dahlias back into garden fashion, has an appealing combination of red flowers and dark burgundy-red leaves.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Single dahlias have simple, daisy-like flowers; the elaborate blooms of Dahlia ‘Bumble Rumble’ have a ruffled collar of shorter petals surrounding the centre, which is characteristic of the Collarette form; so-called Waterlily dahlias have broad, shallow, double flowers that resemble those of their elegant aquatic namesake; D. x pinnata ‘Kurrebo’, which was named after an exhibition garden in Sweden, has pretty bicolour petals; D. coccinea (scarlet dahlia) is one of the parent species of many cultivars seen in gardens; Cactus dahlias typically have less formal, spiky-looking blooms; ‘White Aster’ has long been a popular Pompon dahlia for its intricate, perfectly round flowers consisting of many tightly quilled petals.

PLANTS

Pre-show blooms neatly staked, and protected on hot days by umbrellas.

You can catch earwigs in homemade traps. These are usually made with scrunched newspaper stuffed into an upturned pot on a stake near the plants.

Empty the trap and kill any earwigs before replenishing the trap with more newspaper.

During autumn, dahlia foliage may be attacked by powdery mildew. It is most obvious on varieties with dark foliage.

Remove affected leaves, and apply an organic fungicide to control the disease.

If the plants are nearing the end of their best growth, simply cut them back hard.

showing your dahlias

18 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

SMALL PACKAGES

If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the time or space for tall dahlias, look for dwarf and miniature varieties. The most popular among gardeners is the Hi Dolly series (left). These vibrant dahlias have double flowers on compact bushes no more than 45â&#x20AC;&#x201C;60cm high, and are available in a range of colours. Buy them in punnets, or in flower as small potted plants.

Transfer them into a garden bed or a larger pot for a splash of colour from summer to autumn.

PHOTOS PHIL DUDMAN, POHLMANS

Dahlias are wonderful as cut flowers for the house, but if you have a particularly good crop of blooms, you might be tempted to enter them in a local flower show or even a dahlia competition.

Growing dahlias for competition can take them to an entirely new level. In the lead-up to a show, growers shade blooms on the plant with umbrellas or 50 per cent white shadecloth to prevent them burning. Most buds are removed to encourage fewer but larger flowers, and when the flowers are selected for showing, growers need to pay as much attention to the back of the flower as the front, as both must be perfect.

Show blooms should be symmetrical, free of blemishes, and a good example of their type. Dahlia flowers start showing their age at the back at the base of the bloom, where the petals begin to brown, before the face of the flowe fades. As the flowers are often very heavy, they benefi from being supported on the show bench. Use a wad of cottonwool or a small piece of the dahlia stem (or even a piece of rhubarb stem) to support the flower so it sits upright. GA

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PLANTS

prepare to PAMPER

Native boronias need a sure hand to keep them happy.

AB BISHOP shares some expert tips to help you get the most from these flowering beauties

S

ome plants are tricky to grow, but worth the trouble. You might have heard of boronias – a group of small native shrubs that produce dainty flowers with a fabulous fragrance.

You might have also heard that they’re, shall we say, temperamental? It’s true, but as often happens, the really special things in life sometimes require a bit of extra work.

Boronias are typically small to medium shrubs. Their needs seem simple enough: moist, well-drained soil, cool roots, dappled light and wind protection. Each of these elements plays a role in their success, as they have shallow, fibrous roots that must never be allowed to dry out.

20 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

Most boronias are covered with small, four-petalled flowers from midwinter to spring and even into summer, offering serious cottage garden appeal. Flowers are usually star-like with open petals, but the most fragrant species generally have bell-shaped blooms. Their dominant colour is pink in various shades, with plum, blue, yellow, green and white also featuring.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT Boronia megastigma ‘Jack Maguire’s Red’ has very fragrant flowers and foliage; forest boronia (B. muelleri) is one of the tallest varieties; fragrant native rose (B. serrulata); B. megastigma ‘Lutea’ produces masses of yellow blooms; B. ‘Super Dooper’ has perfumed, pink, star-shaped flowers.

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

at a glance

common name boronia botanic name Boronia spp. plant type shrub 0.5–3m 0.5–3m semi-shade spring, summer, autumn winter, spring, summer

suitable

PHOTOS KARL GERCENS, DESMOND LANE, ISTOCK, GAP PHOTOS/VISIONS, AUSTRALIANPLANTSONLINE.COM.AU

NATIVE FLOWERING SHRUB

TIPS for SUCCESS Boronias are not that long-lived.

You can expect to enjoy most forms for about five years, although plenty have been known to live much longer.

Here’s what they need to be happy.

CLIMATE

Boronias don’t do well in the tropics or in very hot or humid areas.

SOIL

They grow best in a light, moist and well-drained soil. If you have heavy clay, create mounded beds at least 20cm high using bought garden soil.

POSITION

Some species, such as winged boronia (B. alata), tolerate full sun, but in the wild their roots are shaded by rocks or other plants. Err on the safe side and position your boronias in dappled shade and to the east of taller shrubs. They tolerate morning sun but definitely not afternoon sun. Choose a spot protected

from strong winds or they’ll dry out quickly, and they won’t forgive you!

CONTAINERS

Boronias grow well in containers, but keep their roots cool by using a pebble mulch and surrounding the container with other plants for insulation.

COOL ROOTS

Keep boronia roots cool by growing them among other plants, and use an organic mulch, pebbles or small rocks.

In the wild, many species grow near logs and boulders or in rock crevices, where the soil remains moist and cool.

PLANTING

These plants don’t like you to disturb their roots. Soak your plant (in its pot) in liquid seaweed prior to planting.

If the root ball looks crowded, tease the roots using a gentle jet spray on your hose. Before planting, put a spoonful of native fertiliser into the planting hole and cover it with soil.

WATER

Most boronias need supplementary watering in the heat of summer.

MAINTENANCE

Tip-prune at planting, and lightly prune after each main flowering flush.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Boronias are not overly bothered by pests and diseases. Scale and the associated sooty mould are the most common concerns. If a plant is being defoliated, look for slugs and snails.

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fragrant foliage & flowers

The Boronia genus comprises about 150 species. Being members of the Rutaceae (citrus) family, many have aromatic foliage, including the ornamental lemon-scented boronia (B. citriodora), and aniseed boronias (B. crenulata and B. galbraithiae). Not all species have pleasantly scented leaves, though, and some can be quite pungent.

Brown boronia (B. megastigma) has beautiful red-brown and yellow, or only yellow, spring flowers with a gorgeous scent. Most species don’t have such highly fragrant flowers, but perfumed exceptions include the red boronia (B. heterophylla), winter boronia (B. purdieana), pale pink boronia (B. floribunda), yellow boronia (B. tetrandra), native rose (B. serrulata) and the green-flowered Bremer boronia (B. clavata). Position these sweet-smelling boronias along paths, on verandahs and near windows to enjoy their perfume.

Species without fragrant flowers still have plenty to offer. Taller varieties, such as ‘Purple Jared’, ‘Carousel’ and forest boronia (B. muelleri), are fabulous in a dense mixed bed where other plants shade their roots.

For some people, it’s neither here nor there if their boronias are fragrant or not.

It’s common for humans to experience smell quite differently because of unique olfactory receptor genes. So, some of us will never understand what the fuss about scented boronias is all about! GA

DID YOU KNOW?

Brown boronia (B. megastigma), the most widely grown of all the boronias, is a star in the perfume industry for its unique and complex scent profile. The extract of this unassuming little shrub from the south-western corner of Western Australia is one of the world’s most expensive perfume bases.

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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Hybrid boronia ‘Carousel’ has fragrant, pink, bell-shaped flowers; mauve, star-shaped blooms adorn Barker’s boronia (Boronia barkeriana), which has reddish stems; B. ‘Lipstick’ produces aromatic leaves and pink, bell-shaped flowers; the gorgeous blooms on B. ‘Purple Jared’ make great cut flowers; blue boronia (B. coerulescens) has pretty, star-shaped flowers and narrow foliage.

LEFT Clusters of pink, star-shaped flowers blanket soft boronia (Boronia mollis) from midwinter to mid-spring, creating a spectacular effect.

Growing to about 1.5m high and wide, this species has hairy foliage, especially when the leaves are young, and is fairly tolerant of dry conditions once established.

top BORONIAS

PHOTOS GAP PHOTOS/NOVA PHOTO GRAPHIK, ISTOCK, GOLDFIELDS REVEGETATION, RUSSELL DAHMS

Here’s a great selection of boronias. You’ll find various species at native nurseries, and some indigenous nurseries stock local forms.

Barker’s boronia (Boronia barkeriana) Reddish branches; narrow, mid-green leaves; pink to mauve flowers. 0.5–1m 1m Blue boronia (B. coerulescens) Narrow foliage; wiry, grey-green stems; blue-toned flowers.

0.2–0.6m 0.2–0.6m Brown boronia (B. megastigma) and cultivars Aromatic foliage; highly fragrant, bell-shaped flowers. Can treat as an annual. Enjoy a flowering pot plant inside or on a balcony for a month. Look for ‘Jack Maguire’s Red’, yellow-flowering ‘Lutea’, and ‘Harlequin’ with unique striped flowers.

0.5–1m 0.5–1m B. ‘Carousel’ Fragrant, pink, bell-shaped flowers.

1.5–2m 1–1.5m Forest boronia (B. muelleri) Very tall variety with white to pale pink blooms. 1.5–5m 2–3m B. ‘Lipstick’ Narrow, aromatic leaves; purple-pink, bell-shaped flowers. 1–2.5m 0.5–0.75m B. ‘Plum Bells’ Dark plum-coloured, bell-shaped flowers. 1m 1m B. ‘Purple Jared’ Scented, purple, bell-shaped flowers. 1–1.5m 0.5–1m Red boronia (B. heterophylla) Pink, red or white flowers, some perfumed. Tolerates frost better than B. megastigma. Look for ‘Moonglow’ and ‘Pixie’.

1–1.2m 0.6–1m B. ‘Super Dooper’ Perfumed pink flowers.

1–1.3m 1m

FORMER The desert rose needs little encouragement to put on a brilliant show, says KARYN COUPER-SMITH

I

f the desert rose has imposter syndrome, it’s in name only. Though not really a rose, Adenium obesum is an equally striking plant that flowers for most of the year and comes in a range of colours, from purple, red and pink, to white, yellow and all shades in between. Rising from a bulging trunk, its branches support masses of long-lasting, single- or multipetalled flowers amid waxy green leaves.

These unusual-looking plants are great for adding a spark of colour in pots or in

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the ground. For a dramatic display, plant a couple of desert roses in contrasting colours together in a large container.

growing tips

The desert rose is a large succulent shrub to small tree. It generally grows 1.5–2m high, but in its native environment in the semi-arid regions of Sub-Saharan Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, there are some wonderful old specimens that are 3m tall.

The genus is named after the Yemeni city

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of Aden, a former British colony on the southern coast of the Arabian Peninsula.

As these plants love the heat, they also thrive in northern Australia. You can grow them in the country’s southern areas, too, provided you place them in a warm spot that’s protected from frost. They are mostly dormant in winter, and lose their leaves in cooler areas, then burst into bloom in spring, their peak flowering time.

Desert roses don’t need much care, so it’s easy to grow show-stopping specimens. They like to get as much sun as possible and must have good drainage.

Keep them moist in the summer months, then reduce watering in winter. Feed them

PLANTS

EASY-CARE COLOUR

at a glance common name desert rose botanic name Adenium obesum

1.5–3m

1–1.5m

full sun year-round spring to autumn

suitable

with a flower and fruit fertiliser according to the product’s directions, to help them produce a super show of blooms.

Pests are not common, but mealy bug and spider mite are sometimes a problem, and can be treated with an oil-based spray.

Like its relatives frangipani and oleander, the desert rose has poisonous sap, so wear gloves and take care when handling it.

PHOTOS ISTOCK

propagation

If you have desert rose envy of a friend’s specimen, the good news is these plants are easy to propagate. Let the base of cuttings heal for a week before planting in a sandy loam mix. If you sow their seed, they

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN Appealing to gardeners in hot, dry climates, the desert rose combines extraordinary beauty with drought resistance; a lovely specimen with bicolour petals; yellow desert roses come in various shades; the bulbous trunk of the plant is a striking feature.

grow readily but are often not true to type, so you never quite know what you’ll get.

Recently, there has been a lot of interest in desert roses, with collectors and breeders around the world producing fabulous new cultivars. They are easy to cross pollinate, so if you like to dabble in a bit of backyard plant experimentation, you might just come up with the next hybrid that every collector must have! GA

where toBUY

Look for desert roses at your local nursery or markets, or try the following suppliers: Adenium Desert Roses, Queensland, 0438 602 667, adeniumplants.com.au Rare Imports, Western Australia, 0422 956 649, rareimports.com.au

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f

FANFARE A brugmansia, or angelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trumpet, in full bloom is a sight to behold, and there are exciting new cultivars to try, says MARIANNE CANNON

PLANTS

IN FLOWER NOW

W

at a glance common names angel’s trumpet, brugmansia botanic names Brugmansia x candida, B. x cubensis

1.5–5m

1.5–4m

full sun, semi-shade year-round

PHOTO ALAMY

spring, summer, autumn (late spring to summer in cold areas)

ith its large, pendulous blooms that seem to blanket the plant over the warmer months, angel’s trumpet is a spectacular feature plant for gardens big and small. Also known as brugmansia after its genus name, this flowering shrub or tree reminds me of an extravagant multi-tier birthday cake. Those flowers are like curls of frosting, and I mustn’t be the only one to think so, judging by cultivar names such as ‘Vanilla Sugar’ and ‘Sugared Almond’.

I’ve always had a brugmansia in my garden, and I love the sweet scent of the flowers, strongest in the evening, when the perfume wafts through my bedroom window. Bees also love the flowers, and if you wander near the plant’s canopy, you can hear their loud, joyful buzz.

Flowers flush from spring through to autumn. If you’re in the tropics, you’ll have them for most of the year. Flushes often bare a huge number of blooms, particularly after a downpour. There are varieties with single, double or triple flowers, and some blooms have wickedly curled outer lips that look like iced confections or witches’ hats. Colours range from white, apricot and shades of pink to yellow and orange.

A brugmansia is a show stopper, so position it prominently where it can be admired, either as a small specimen tree or in a mixed planting. It’s the perfect fit for a tropical-style garden, planted among frangipani, heliconia, ornamental ginger, zebra plant (Calathea zebrina) and elephant ears (Alocasia x amazonica). It’s also at home in a cottage garden, underplanted with hellebores or heucheras, and alongside Chinese lantern (Abutilon spp.), camellias and port-wine magnolia (Magnolia figo).

growing & pruning suitable

Brugmansias grow best in warm, frost-free climates. The foliage and flowers can wilt in hot or exposed positions, so find a spot G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

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in semi-shade, or somewhere that receives only morning or late-afternoon sun, where there’s protection from strong winds.

Plant your brugmansia in rich soil enhanced with compost and aged animal manures, then watch it take off! In the first year, provide plenty of water, and feed the tree regularly in the warmer months, which keeps the flowers coming and makes the colour more intense. I feed mine every three months with a combination of compost and aged manure boosted with organic fertiliser pellets. Mature specimens are less needy but still benefit from regular feeding and a good soaking during hot, dry spells.

You can also grow a brugmansia in a large pot. Keep it well watered, and apply liquid fertiliser once a fortnight. Container growing is a great option in cold areas, as you can move the pot under cover or protect the plant with horticultural fleece when frosts threaten. Containerised plants need to be re-potted annually, or you could simply start new plants each year from cuttings.

Brugmansias are fast-growing and can look leggy and straggly over time, so you need to prune them regularly. The best time to prune is after a flush of flowers. Aim to remove about one-third of the growth each time. They flower mostly on new wood, particularly above where branches divide to form a Y, so prune above these formations where possible. If you like, you can remove lower growth to shape the plant like a standard, which will show off the pendulous trumpet flowers even more dramatically.

managing pests

The large leaves are a favourite hide-out of snails, so pick off these pests as you see them, and place wildlife-friendly snail traps and baits around the base of the trunk.

Aphids, thrips and mites can be a problem in warm, dry conditions – control them with sprays based on soap, horticultural oil or neem oil. Keep an eye out for beneficial insects, such as ladybirds or lacewings, which may already be controlling pests. GA 28 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

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Top picks

Brugmansias come in many colours and forms, with new cultivars arriving all the time. Look for these standouts:

Old favourites

‘Clementine’ Golden-yellow double blooms.

‘Maya’ Apricot-peach single blooms; variegated leaves; rare.

‘Old Apricot’ Peach-coloured single blooms.

‘Tutu’ syn. ‘Knightii’ White or cream double blooms.

‘Wow!’ Pink double or triple flowers with long tips; forms a natural canopy.

New cultivars

‘Lincoln’s Fire’ Deep pink to red blooms with long tips.

‘Senorita Rosada’ Pink double blooms on a small bush 1.5m tall.

‘The Dancer’ Pink double or triple flowers on a smaller tree.

‘Twilight Time’ Huge pink double blooms; very quick-growing.

‘Winter Flame’ Deep orange blooms; prefers semi-shade.

POISON ALERT!

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Brugmansia ‘Clementine’ flowers have an orange and marzipan perfume; the long-lasting blooms of ‘Senorita Rosada’; the petals of ‘The Dancer’ resemble a twirling skirt; fiery orange ‘Winter Flame’; ‘Wow!’ has double or triple blooms; pretty, peach-coloured ‘Maya’.

All parts of the brugmansia are toxic. Do not ingest it in any form.

Always cover your skin and wear gloves and eye protection when handling the plant or gardening close by. If you have pets or children who are inquisitive, or pets that chew on things, keep the plant completely out of reach, or choose something else.

PHOTOS BRISBANE BRUGMANSIA ANGEL’S TRUMPETS, CASS ROSCAREL, ISTOCK

TAKING CUTTINGS

Brugmansias are easy to strike from cuttings during the warmer months.

Select a piece of firm, established stem (not green) and prepare a cutting 20–25cm long. Cut the base of the stem just below a leaf node, then remove all the leaves. Dip the base in rooting hormone powder, and plant into a pot filled with premium potting mix. Place it in a warm, shaded spot, and keep the mix moist. Alternatively, put the cutting in a jar of water, then pot it up when roots form in a month or so. When leaves start to grow, gradually introduce the potted cutting to direct sun over a couple of weeks.

RINGING IN YOUR EARS?

“He keeps saying “you don’t have to shout,” and I say, “I’ve been shouting for forty years. It’s hard to change overnight!”

Frances Clarke of Bathurst.

Brugmansias are available from specialist nurseries and other suppliers, including:

Brisbane Brugmansia Angel’s Trumpets brisbanebrugmansia angelstrumpets.com.au Brugs Galore facebook.com/BrugsGalore

ENT DOCTOR DEVELOPED

Tinnitus specialists are now recommending a new medically based program which can offer genuine relief for tinnitus – Sound Therapy!

If you have: Ringing in the ears Work related noise exposure Dizziness or vertigo Difficulty hearing clearly Blocked ear/s Sleeping problems Sound Therapy may be the answer!

RIGHT If you choose to propagate brugmansia cuttings in jars of water, replace the water every 1–2 days. Before using tap water that is chlorinated, remember to allow it to stand overnight.

where toBUY

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Garden Express gardenexpress.com.au Sacred Garden Frangipanis sacredgardenfrangipanis.com

CALL 1300 55 77 96 To learn exactly how our program works and get a FREE DVD info pack visit our website www.mysoundtherapy.com/GA

OVER THE FENCE

meet the flower grower

BRENDA CUNNINGHAM Combining full-time parenting with tending a flourishing garden is all in a day’s work for this flower lover, writes SALLY FELDMAN

I

t’s amazing how much some people can fit into their day – just ask Brenda Cunningham, aka @ggthegardengirl.

Raising three young children is a full-time job, but Brenda also manages to tend her ever-evolving 0.2ha property, fossick for discarded objects to upscale into pretty and practical garden accessories, film a popular weekly YouTube gardening video, and keep thousands of her followers on Instagram and TikTok happy. Last year, she even took out top honours for best environmentally sustainable garden in a local competition.

Eleven years ago, Brenda and her husband, James, left their tiny Sydney apartment to move to the regional town of Picton, New South Wales, to realise their dream of buying their first home. “I was so excited about the amount of land that came with the property,” says Brenda. “And having so many mature fruit trees there was an added bonus.”

creating a dream garden

LEFT, AND ABOVE A wheelbarrow-load of gorgeous colourful flowers from Brenda’s garden; Brenda in her happy place, holding a beautiful spray of freshly picked wattle.

Brenda started a vegie patch soon after they moved in, but it wasn’t until after her third child was born that she really set about transforming the land into the flourishing cottage garden it is today. She’s put a lot of work into improving the soil. “I make my own compost and have a worm farm. I grow comfrey to make fertiliser and I buy mushroom compost,” she says.

These days, when you arrive at the property, you’re greeted by the sight of well-established trees, including a grevillea, a magnolia and camellias. Within the garden, Brenda has created a series of spaces, including raised potager beds planted with fruit, vegetables and flowers. “I love integrating flowering and edible plants,” she says. “I feel they complement one another.”

Down the slope by the lemon tree is Brenda’s prized dahlia patch, which will be crammed with showy flowers come Christmas. Also close to Brenda’s heart are two apple trees that her father planted to commemorate the birth of her first child. “I can see them from the side window in my kitchen,” she says. “When they’re covered in blooms in spring, I enjoy standing under them, listening to the hum of the bees.”

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Every available space in Brenda’s garden is put to good use, whether she’s growing flowers or food, or displaying fun ornaments; pink cosmos decorates a rusty old letterbox that’s used to store small gardening tools for tending the raised vegie beds; an old metal bin lid provides a water source for the wildlife and beneficial insects that visit the garden, with stones added to make it easier for them to drink; the smallest sunflower species grown by Brenda is dwarfed by a ‘Giant Russian’, which is the largest variety she grows; raised beds are overflowing with a colourful collection of flowering plants, including sweet peas scrambling up a climbing frame.

OVER THE FENCE

A more recent addition is Brenda’s experimental patch at the rear of the property near the chook run. “I call it the Fan Garden, because as you enter the space, you pass through an archway made from upcycled fan covers,” she explains.

“In summer, I grew a mix of tomatoes and cut flowers in the five rows of no-dig garden beds here. A standout is the cotton plant – I wanted to see if I could grow it, and I’m still waiting to see if I’ll get to harvest cotton for dried flower arrangements.”

PHOTOS BRENDA CUNNINGHAM

family connections

Brenda spent her childhood in Dublin, Ireland, but her parents had previously lived in Australia, so there was a connection with her adopted home. “I remember Mum’s strawflowers hanging in our kitchen to dry,” she says. “I was fascinated by their crisp texture, and this may have been when my curiosity for flowering plants with unusual textures started. And when I smell stock, sweet peas or lemon balm, it takes me back to that garden.

It’s one of the reasons I love growing flowers – for their scent.”

For Brenda, who had a bit of a thing for buying expensive cut flowers, becoming a stay-at-home mum was a turning point in her gardening journey. “I decided it would be more economical to buy a few packets of seeds and grow my own,” she says. “That’s when my seed-purchasing addiction started!”

She began with familiar varieties, such as pansies and petunias, then tried growing Australian native flowers from seed, too.

“I’d convinced myself they were difficult to grow, which isn’t true,” she says. “There are plenty of natives we can grow at home, such as strawflowers and blue Rottnest Island daisies.”

She also admits that, early on, she got so enthusiastic about sowing and propagation that she ended up growing far more than she could manage. “Sometimes I still have to remind myself of that when I’m sowing seeds for spring – it’s very easy to get carried away with the excitement of the season!”

Nowadays, Brenda’s children pick posies for the house and grow flowers in mini container gardens. “I hope that by creating these special memories, it may inspire them to garden and be more aware of the environment around us.” Brenda’s love of growing flowers evolved through the need to create a balanced ecosystem in her organic edible garden, and concern for the environment. She incorporates dried-flower options, edible flowers, and blooms to attract wildlife and beneficial insects.

Just as important is what will look good in a vase, and Brenda says she aims to grow a variety of flowers: ‘spillers’ (those that hang over the edge), ‘thrillers’ (what she calls the show stoppers) and ‘fillers’ (to bulk out the floral arrangement).

She’s happy to let some vegies, such as lettuce, radish and broccoli, bolt and bloom to attract bees and other pollinators.

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OVER THE FENCE

sound advice

Brenda’s advice to anyone wanting to grow more flowers is to consider the type of soil you’re working with, the climate, and the time you have available to care for your garden. She also advises not being afraid to experiment, but to be realistic about it – not all flowers you love will flourish in your situation, but there are similar alternatives that will. She recommends investing in perennial plants for blooms that come back year after year, and suggests buying tubestock plants or plugs as a cheaper alternative to more mature specimens. “I buy a lot of my Australian native plants that way. They establish just as fast as the same plant purchased in a larger pot,” she says.

In the end, though, it all comes down to embracing gardening – whether vegies or a bed of glorious cut flowers – as a process of trial and error, says Brenda. “As gardeners, we never stop learning, which makes us vulnerable to failure. But that’s often how we achieve our biggest goals.” GA

5 FROM TOP Brenda made this lovely mini bouquet in a jar using snapdragon, alyssum, lavender and larkspur flowers from her garden, with some dusty miller (Senecio cineraria) added for its silver foliage; fluffy plumes of fountain grass mingle with tall pink cosmos and bright orange and yellow marigolds near a rustic garden arch that Brenda constructed using old branches that were lying around.

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favourite FLOWER COMBOS

Strawflower and bottlebrush (right) Cosmos and dahlia Wattle flowers and daisies Leptospermum and grevillea Bunny tail grass and poppy seed heads

PHOTOS BRENDA CUNNINGHAM

See more of Brenda’s garden @ggthegardengirl on Instagram

In fact, she once grew globe artichokes just for their flowers.

“I think I got more pleasure from them than if I’d harvested them for the kitchen!” She also uses edible flowers fresh for quick herbal teas, or to decorate cupcakes as a treat for her children.

While each season brings its own pleasures and calls for different gardening tasks, spring is Brenda’s favourite, as it’s all about sowing seeds and planning her summer garden.

Her daily routine starts with making herself a mug of coffee, letting the chooks out for the day, and checking on her plants.

Between her family commitments, she tries to keep up with the maintenance – weeding, watering and mulching.

“A good day in the garden would be when I occasionally get to spend a few uninterrupted hours out there, ticking off jobs from my to-do list,” she says. “It’s productive days like those, when my body is exhausted, that I feel the most satisfied.”

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OVER THE FENCE

meet the flower grower PAM GLUCINA

Life has blossomed for this passionate gardener since she moved up in the world, writes SALLY FELDMAN

E

from the ground up ABOVE, AND RIGHT Pam picks showy blooms from the Camellia japonica ‘Tamzin Coull’ growing near the vibrant coleus taken from a neighbour’s cutting; a cheery mix of cosmos self-seeds under the crepe myrtle trees.

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The daughter of an orchardist, Pam was raised in the country, surrounded by an abundance of fruit, vegetables and flowers.

“My grandmother lived next door and grew the most amazing dahlias, and my mum grew loads of roses and daffodils.”

PHOTOS PAM GLUCINA

very morning, Pam Glucina wanders around her garden to check if all is well. “The bandicoots like to dig up my newly planted seedlings every now and again as they forage in the soil,” she says. “I always have seedlings on the go, so nurturing and watering them is next on my list.

A gardening lifestyle is another world that allows you to zone out and get down and dirty. There’s nothing like it.”

Moving from Brisbane to the cooler climes of the Gold Coast hinterland with her husband seven years ago opened up a world of gardening possibilities. “I’d always wanted a cute cottage with an English-style cottage garden and an abundance of flowers,” says Pam. “Growing flowers in Brisbane was tough, so when our children left home, we decided to move out of the city.”

Pam’s aim was to embrace a more sustainable lifestyle “in the fresh mountain air”, and she’s certainly living that dream, 560m above sea level on Tamborine Mountain. “I fell in love with this storybook cottage and knew I could create the garden I’d always wanted,” she says. That garden has now gained a following on Instagram (@flowerpatch_cottage), where images of Pam’s freshly picked blooms are a drawcard for fellow flower lovers.

Pam’s characterful 1940s home sits towards the back of a gently sloping 1220m2 block, the driveway to the house revealing hedges of camellias underplanted with swathes of agapanthus.

Each season offers Pam something special. “In summer, beds are jam-packed with dahlias,” she says. “In autumn, deciduous trees change colour and the streets are carpeted with leaves.

In winter, magnolias and camellias bloom, early bulbs appear, and winter vegetables are planted. In spring, the garden is alive with poppies, foxgloves, ranunculus, anemones, sweet peas…”

But it was Pam’s father who sparked her passion for growing things. She started by planting beds full of marigolds. “They were easy to grow and flowered for a long time,” she says.

“Now I use them to companion-plant with tomatoes.”

Pam prefers flowers that she can cut – the longer the stems, the better. “My favourites are sweet peas, roses, dahlias… and every other flower in my garden! I plant the flowers that I love.”

Much of Pam’s garden is self-seeded. She likes to let flowers bloom where they grow to create a random, meadow-like effect.

“Calendulas pop up around my vegetable beds – I give them the freedom to grow and they bloom profusely.”

Among the standout features on the property, Pam points out a huge liquidambar tree that provides dappled shelter for 38 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT This basketful of dahlias destined for a vase includes the hot-pink Delbard Dahlia ‘Champs Elysees’, along with a ‘Sugartown Sunrise’ bloom and a decorative red variety given to Pam by a friend, which all combine beautifully with the purple butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii); Pam’s charming 1940s cottage, framed by a magnificent pink ‘Cafe au Lait’ dahlia; bountiful in spring, ranunculus are great for snipping, and Pam saves the corms to plant the following season; a delightful blue vintage jug is perfect for displaying this gorgeous mix of David Austin roses (left to right, ‘Sharifa Asma’, ‘Radio Times’ and ‘Jude the Obscure’), which is complemented by some of the feathery asparagus fern foliage that pops up in the garden.

succulents and elkhorn ferns, as well as several garden ‘rooms’, and garden beds where old camellia trees are underplanted with spring bulbs, salvias and forget-me-nots. Wisteria and roses are draped over archways, and chandeliers strung in trees. “The way that I’ve designed the garden makes you want to see what’s around the corner,” she explains.

This seven-year (and counting) labour of love has offered Pam plenty of new gardening opportunities, particularly adapting to the mountain climate, which is at least five degrees cooler and has a slightly higher average rainfall than the Gold Coast and Brisbane.

“I love that we can grow deciduous trees like oaks and cedars,” she says. “And I didn’t know much about magnolias and camellias until I came to live here, so I’ve planted quite a few now.”

PHOTOS PAM GLUCINA

OVER THE FENCE

Last year’s drought also brought Pam useful insights. Like many others in the area, she relies entirely on tank water, and found it hard to keep the garden watered. Even her agaves suffered, and her ever-reliable dahlias had trouble emerging from dormancy. So, she’s giving the agaves silica and potash occasionally to strengthen them, and will lift the dahlia tubers every year to ensure continued viability. She’s also rethinking how to ensure a constant display of flowers. “I’ll need to plant some drought-hardy natives,” she says. “I did plan to plant fewer annuals, but you know what, I just couldn’t!”

Pam knows that great results start from the ground up, so she lavishes her soil with love, knowing it will return the favour with beautiful flowers. While her property sits on fertile,

See more of Pam’s garden @flowerpatch_ cottage on Instagram

LEFT, AND ABOVE White-flowering native hardenbergia, a fast-growing evergreen climber, has been trained over a garden archway in the round rose bed and looks magical on a misty mountain morning; three Aynsley vases that Pam found in the local op shop are the perfect vessels for displaying beautiful soft pink blooms picked from one of the very old, unnamed camellia trees in the garden.

a creative process

Like all gardeners, Pam has learnt a lot by trial and error, discovering what works and what doesn’t in her garden, and how to bring out the best in each plant, as she goes. “I’ve learnt that dahlias don’t like hot sun in the afternoon, and they love a bit of blood and bone every now and again,” she says. “And the more blooms you pick, the more they grow – like sweet peas.

In fact, the more you nurture, fertilise, mulch and water them, the more they give back to you.”

Pam also reckons there’s a lot to be said for following your intuition. “Don’t be afraid to design your space your own way,” she suggests. “If you want to grow more flowers, grow them!

Create diversity in small spaces by packing in flowers and then more flowers. You’ll encourage healthy soil, bees and butterflies.

Some plants will surprise you, others will challenge you. It’s the best kind of on-the-job learning!” And she’s putting her money 40 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

where her mouth is – her next project is to help a friend create a wild cottage garden. “I can’t wait for the creativity to begin.”

Pam’s passion doesn’t end with the lovely floral arrangements that fill her home and her Instagram posts. She dries calendula and lavender flowers for her handmade soaps and balms, and shares blooms with friends and family. “Sometimes I give a bunch of flowers to a stranger walking past my house if I’m out in the garden picking them,” she says. “There’s nothing like giving away flowers you’ve grown yourself. That feeling is priceless.” GA

5

favourite FLOWER COMBOS

Heritage roses with anything dainty and white (right) Sweet peas, foxgloves and ranunculus Lavender and deep pink liliums Poppies, cosmos and salvias Orlaya and babiana

PHOTOS PAM GLUCINA

free-draining volcanic soil, Pam has never forgotten her father’s advice to “put guts” into the soil. She makes her own compost and loves when it’s time to add it to the earth, building up the organic layers and feeding all the worms. “It’s a form of magic that transforms the soil into a loamy black texture that’s lovely and crumbly,” she says.

2021 Calendars & Diaries

$19.95 INCLUDES

MONTHLY PLANTING GUIDES, PLANNERS, WHAT TO PLANT & GARDENING TIPS!

SEPT 21 2020

Available from newsagents, bookstores & abcmagazines.com.au

DESIGN

create your first

L

There’s lots of talk about perennials these days, and the talk is getting more and more sophisticated. But where do you start if you’ve never used these plants before? MICHAEL McCOY takes it from the top

et’s start with a definition.

Perennials are plants that last three or more years. That makes trees and shrubs perennials. But what all gardeners are referring to when they casually use the term ‘perennials’ are herbaceous perennials – plants that last three or more years, but don’t have the capability to produce wood. In the majority

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of cases, this results in a cyclical growth pattern that includes dying away, or at least entering dormancy, annually. Many old cottage garden plants are herbaceous perennials, as are many plants we’d consider wildflowers, or meadow flowers.

The appeal of herbaceous perennials (which we’ll just call perennials from now on) is they last many years, they

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pass through a predictable cycle each year (and, by doing so, highlight seasonal change), they flower at a consistent time each year (and at a consistent height, so you can play with endless floral combinations), and they’re very mobile, allowing you to move them about when they’re dormant and sometimes even when they’re in flower.

PHOTOS MICHAEL McCOY, VIRGINIA CUMMINS

PERENNIAL PATCH

DESIGN

PLANNING THE BED

To establish the planning that might go into a planting of perennials, let’s set up an imaginary bed (below) of 6m x 1.5m.

Because much of the fun and beauty of working with these plants is derived from combining them in proximity, you want to be able to have plants in front of and behind others, as well as beside them.

So, a depth of 1.5m is really a minimum for this kind of planting. (Note, though, that the length could vary. You might

become more concerned about sustainable garden practices. Good enough is good enough, and we’ll stick to plants that will perform in less-than-perfect soil conditions.

Perennial plants are best purchased as named forms or clones from retail or mail-order nurseries. Now that they’re all grown in pots, rather than bare-rooted as they once were, they can be purchased and planted at any time of year. They’re likely to take two or three years to really bulk up,

have two beds dissected by a path, for example, that add up to about 6m.)

The bed needs to be in full sun for satisfactory flowering, receiving at least six hours of direct sunshine per day. The soil should be well drained, and cultivated (dug over) to about a spade’s depth. There was a time when gardeners thought perennials should have perfect soil preparation, with lots of compost added, and consistent feeding, but this thinking is fading as we

6M

GL PB

PB

SM

1.5 M

AFM

GR

GL

PB

CKF GL

GL SM

GR

PERENNIAL PLANTING SCHEME (FRONT VIEW)

PB x 5 GR x 6 Penstemon ‘Blackbird’ Geranium ‘Rozanne’

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GL x 4 Gaura lindheimeri

SM x 7 Sedum ‘Matrona’

AFM x 4 Aster x frikartii ‘Monch’

CKF x 1 Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’

but if they’re planted now, with their full growing season ahead of them, you’ll get a good floral show out of them this summer.

Perennials can also be raised from seed, which is a cheap method, but the results are unpredictable. Another good way to procure plants is from divisions of friends’ plants. That’s one of the great things with perennials. If you have enough this year, through simple expansion you’ll have two or three times what you need next year, and you can start giving away divisions.

SWAP IT

Here are some alternatives to the planting scheme to give you equivalent heights and forms:

VERTICALS Any upright-growing Salvia species up to about 1m wide Agastache ‘Blue Boa’ or A. ‘Blue Fortune’

HORIZONTALS Achillea ‘Antique Parchment’ or any other Achillea species and their cultivars Rudbeckia ‘Goldsturm’

FEATURE GRASSES Stipa gigantea Miscanthus sinensis ‘Kleine Fontaine’ or M. nepalensis (both smaller forms)

GARDEN DESIGN MICHAEL McCOY ILLUSTRATION PHIL DUDMAN PHOTOS ALAMY, ISTOCK, VIRGINIA CUMMINS, MICHAEL McCOY, PLANTERSPATCH.COM.AU, MATT REED

CHOOSING THE PLANTS

When starting out, it’s useful to consider that most garden perennials are in the height range of 1–1.5m. This is a good match to the scale of our bed, but even when planting over a vast area, it’s a useful height to establish as the ‘general’ height of the contents. One thing you quickly learn when placing plants for combined colour impact is that unless the flowers occur in proximity, there’s no visual linking of them, so it’s worth having the bulk of your plants in an approximately equal height range, with a few taller plants added for accents.

Within this size category there’s also a range of different forms, and perennial plantings, like floral arrangements, are always most satisfying when they explore a broad range of forms. At the extreme ends of the spectrum are those perennials that present their flowers in a powerful vertical or strongly horizontal format.

In terms of verticals, think, for instance, of delphiniums. They provide emphatic upright lines to the planting, like floral exclamation marks. I don’t suggest using them in our imaginary bed, as they’re too tall and demand too much staking, but being widely known, they’re a useful example.

Given our height range, I suggest a really useful vertical is Penstemon ‘Blackbird’. It is exceptionally long-flowering, and tolerant of a wide range of Australian climates.

(For alternatives, see ‘Swap it’, right.)

For horizontals, I’d start with a sedum, which are also long-flowering. Far more importantly, though, they are good before, during and after flowering, providing

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Presenting in a strongly vertical format, Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’ has long-flowering spikes and licorice-scented foliage; Achillea ‘Antique Parchment’ forms horizontal bands of pink blooms that fade to peach and then sandy hues as they age; feathery Miscanthus nepalensis can be used to break up solidity of form and colour in the bed.

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O C T O B E R 2 02 0 45

DESIGN

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SOME LIKE IT HOT!

If you prefer colours a little spicier, try these substitutes (clockwise from above left): Euphorbia ‘Craigieburn’ Achillea ‘Terracotta’ Penstemon ‘Garnet’ Rudbeckia ‘Goldsturm’

PHOTOS PGA, ISTOCK, ALAMY

interesting seed heads. The most cleanly horizontal cultivar is the old Sedum spectabile, but its flowering colour isn’t nearly as good as the more modern forms, such as S. ‘Autumn Joy’ or S. ‘Matrona’.

To be truthful, the flower heads on both of these look more like broccoli than the flat-topped S. spectabile, but they present themselves as a ‘plateau’ of colour.

Let’s go for S. ‘Matrona’, because it provides the pre-flowering benefit of rich ruby-purple stems that echo the colour of the penstemon flowers. Where possible, it’s worth echoing one or two key plants throughout the planting, as the repetition magnifies the floral impact. So, we’ll use two clumps of this sedum. In a huge planting, you might use 20 or 30!

Our space probably requires one more plant of horizontal presentation, so let’s add Aster x frikartii ‘Monch’. It’s another long flowerer, bearing pale mauve daisies.

Then we need something a little smaller to play along the front of the bed. Geranium ‘Rozanne’ is a multi-award-winning perennial, again of exceptionally long floral contribution. And it will fit nicely into what is shaping up to be a cool colour scheme of purples and mauves.

These plants will form the bulk of the planting, creating a highly desirable undulating plateau of colour, which will be even more interesting when ‘punctured’ with something a good deal taller, such as the grass Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’.

This flowers in early spring with fine, purple, gnat-like flowers that splay out in vase form. Then, as it ripens, each flower stem becomes bolt upright, carrying golden seed heads. It’s the perfect contrast to our heavily floral scheme, and its animated, wind-catching foliage will provide an offset to all that colour.

The colour presentation is pretty chunky so far, so it may benefit from the addition of something finer and fuzzier, such as the gypsophila added to ’80s and ’90s floral arrangements. One of the sterile forms of Gaura lindheimeri would be perfect for this, just popping through the colour solidity here and there. GA

care & maintenance

After planting, spread some mulch on your perennial bed to retain moisture and minimise weed growth. This planting should be very drought tolerant indeed, but full tolerance is achieved only when the plants are full bli h d Occasional watering in the first year will assist this. Beyond t interaction the plants require is to be cut right to the groun The exception would be the penstemon, which should be as if you’re hard-pruning a shrub, cutting back to a mou 30–40cm tall. Be sure to compost all the refuse! Whi is briefly bare in late winter, having been cut back, t filling it with bulbs for a spring display. Tulips, hyacin and alliums, which are in leaf for a relatively short tim are the perfect choice if your climate is conducive.

™

Slasher

®

ORGANIC* WEEDKILLER

GLYPHOSATE REE

FAS ACT T ION

1hr

EFFECTIVE ORGANIC

* Approved for use in organic gardens. † Visible results may take longer than 1 hour on some tough weeds or in shaded conditions

Available from hardware stores, nurseries, supermarkets and online at www.ecoorganicgarden.com.au

†

I0

ways to MAKE GARDEN

BEE f riendly

We need bees more than ever, and there are lots of things that gardeners can do to make them feel welcome, writes SOPHIE THOMSON

BEES

MAIN, AND ABOVE RIGHT Bees adore borage; a mix of flower shapes and forms is beneficial for bees, and they love the flat landing pads of flowers such as yellow Achillea ‘Moonshine’.

PHOTOS LUKE SIMON, VIRGINIA CUMMINS

I

may be totally biased, but I don’t think there’s any point having a garden if it’s not designed to support butterflies, birds, bees and other garden guardians.

Wildlife-friendly gardens have become all the rage, and while the basic principles for supporting different creatures can be the same, such as providing food, water, shelter and habitat, the specifics for each of them are quite different.

So, what’s all the buzz about bees?

Bees are vital, and their importance can’t be overstated, yet they are under threat worldwide, and their plight can feel very ominous and overwhelming. On average, about one of every three bites of food we eat requires insect pollination, yet 40 per cent of insect pollinators, especially bees and butterflies, are facing extinction.

With such a huge problem on a global scale, what can you do in your backyard that will make a difference? By following these 10 easy guidelines, every backyard can become a bee-friendly garden that

supports these little pollinators. Whether your garden is a balcony, a tiny courtyard, a suburban backyard or a larger property, the principles of providing food, water, shelter and habitat still apply.

1

POSITION

When choosing a site to plant for bees, select a sunny spot, as bees generally prefer flowers in the sun.

2

NATURAL ATTRACTION

Plant bee-attracting plants, and plan your garden so it has something in flower for them all year round. Long-flowering herbs such as French lavender, borage and rosemary are a great place to start.

When choosing flower colours, be aware that bees can’t see red, and they prefer blue, purple, yellow and white blooms.

It’s also fascinating to note that bees, but not humans, can see colours in the ultraviolet spectrum, and many flowers have ultraviolet nectar guides.

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O C T O B E R 2 02 0 49

3

FAVOURITE PLANTS

Observe the plants in your garden that bees are drawn to, and plant more of those.

Bees like group or block plantings with more than one of the same plant growing together. If there isn’t much flowering at your place, check out other gardens in the neighbourhood. Planting a good selection of their favourite plants will keep the bees happy while giving you colour and interest in your garden all year round.

4

NO SPRAYS

Stop using ‘-cides’ in your garden.

This suffix means ‘to kill’, as in homicide, genocide, fungicide... I’m sure you get the drift. Bees are very sensitive to herbicides and insecticides, so avoid using them. Even organic treatments such as pyrethrum, garlic, chilli and soap sprays are toxic to bees if sprayed carelessly.

5

DRINKING WATER

Put shallow bowls of water out in the garden for bees, as you would for birds or pets. Honeybees need water to drink but they cannot swim, so add twigs, bark, corks or stones emerging from the water (below) in bowls or birdbaths to provide a safe landing platform.

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6

VEGETABLE FLOWERS

Let some of your vegies come up to flower once they are finished. Bees love the flowers of brassicas (pictured), such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale and mustard, so keep a few vegies in your garden at the end of the season just for bee forage.

BEES

7

ROOMS TO RENT

Build a native bee hotel. A handful of native bee species form colonies and live in hives, but the majority, including resin bees, masked bees and leafcutter bees, enjoy living in bee hotels or B&Bs (above). You can find full instructions for making one in the February 2020 issue of the magazine (back issues are available from mymagazines.com.au).

8

NATIVE BEES

PHOTOS LUKE SIMON, ISTOCK

Plant flowering natives that bloom from early spring to late autumn, as native bees rely completely on pollen and nectar for food, and for feeding their offspring.

Good choices include Christmas bush (Bursaria spinosa), flax-lily (Dianella spp.), tea-tree (Leptospermum spp.), fan-flower (Scaevola aemula) and wattle (Acacia spp.).

9

DIVERSITY

In much the same way that we should eat a balanced diet rather than only one kind of food, bees do best with a diverse range of flowering plants from which to gather a varied diet of nectar and pollen. Providing a diversity of flower shapes and forms is also beneficial.

10

BEEHIVES

Do a beekeeping course and get a beehive. If you arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t confident enough to have your own hive, contact the beekeeping society in your state about hosting one for a local beekeeper. While the hive belongs to the beekeeper, they share some of the honey with you, and you can see what is involved in checking and managing a hive.

This is a great first step for those who are unsure whether to commit to doing a beekeeping course or getting a hive. GA

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O C T O B E R 2 02 0 51

For every kind o of gardener

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PRACTICAL

KNOW

your

SOIL

soil series R

See more on Friday, Oct 2 at 7.30pm on ABC TV

Good gardening starts with good soil, so it pays to know how to examine, test and understand the stuff beneath your feet

words TINO CARNEVALE photography FIONA WALSH

P

ick up a handful of your soil and give it a sniff. What does it smell like? Good earth smells fresh. If it smells sour or rancid, you probably have a drainage issue. And what colour is the soil? Soils rich in organic material are usually a dark, deep colour, such as black, brown or tan. Soils that look pale or washed out tend to be low in nutrients.

Gardeners spend a lot of time in proximity to the ground, and basic clues to soil health, such as colour and smell, are noted in passing. But there are ways to test your soil more systematically, and to use the results to inform your plant choices and how you manage and water your garden.

The following tests can tell you about the texture of your soil, how well it drains, and what the layers deeper down consist of.

We recommend that you test in various areas of the garden to get the full picture.

In coming issues, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll show you how to address things such as heavy clay or poor drainage. For now, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s do the science.

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O C T O B E R 2 02 0 53

1

2

3

test one

STEP-BY-STEP

BALL & RIBBON TEST

Soil texture is determined by the ratio of sand, silt and clay – the mineral components – in your soil. Sand particles are the largest of the three, clay the smallest, and silt ranges between the two. Ideally, you want an even blend of the three types in your soil, which results in what we call loam.

1. TAKE a soil sample after making sure you’ve scraped away any mulch or top dressing – this test is for the soil’s mineral composition, not its organic content.

Remove any roots, twigs or small rocks.

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2. WET down your sample with a little water until it’s moist and sticky. Feel it with your hands. Silt feels like wet baby powder, clay is like plasticine, and sand feels like, well, sand.

3. ROLL a small handful of the soil into a ball. If it’s easy to create a mud ball, your soil is made up of a good proportion of clay. If you have difficulty forming a sphere and it crumbles apart, your soil has a high percentage of sand.

4. SQUASH the ball and form it into a ribbon or sausage. If it falls apart, you’re dealing with a sandy loam.

4 5. BEND the ribbon. If it cracks and breaks apart, that’s perfect soil texture.

If it bends and splits but doesn’t break, it’s clay loam. If it bends and holds together, invest in gypsum and compost – or take up pottery! (See next month’s issue of the magazine for ways to manage clay soil.)

PRACTICAL

READING THE RESULTS

This very simple test reveals a lot.

Sandier soils have great drainage but poor water- and nutrientholding capacity, so unless you plan to constantly add water and fertiliser, you’ll want to invest in additives, such as organic materials, that contribute body to the soil. Clay soils are the opposite – they’re packed with nutrients but tend to become waterlogged and compacted – so you may want to add gypsum (remember not to work the ground when it’s wet).

Silt-dominant soils can crust over and become hydrophobic, and are so light that they can be eroded by wind and rain. Mulch is essential to protect silty soils – although ‘nature’s blanket’ is good to add to all three types of soil.

test two

STEP-BY-STEP

HORIZON TEST

Doing this test gives you a clear picture of the subterranean layers that make up your soil’s profile. Soil profiles vary, but the layers, from top to bottom, are generally topsoil (where all the good stuff lives and breathes), subsoil and a clay base. To study the layers, you just dig a hole, so grab your spade!

1

2 2. STUDY the layers (horizons) of the soil. Some soil horizons are ‘duplex’, which means there’s a clear distinction between the layers. With ‘gradational’ soils, the layers are more blended.

These tend to occur with sandier soils, where disturbance of the layers is not so much of an issue.

3. DO the ball and ribbon test (opposite page) on the different layers if you want to understand where water is likely to run through freely or be retained.

3

1. DIG a large hole, aiming for at least one crisp, shaved wall section that is clearly visible. As you dig through the layers, pile up the soil in distinct rows to the side of the hole, so when you’re finished you can replace the layers in the same order they came out.

READING THE RESULTS

5

By figuring out what your soil layers consist of, you can see how water and nutrients travel through them, and therefore how plant roots will, too. Nice clear topsoil will drain well and permit good root development, while a clay base is likely to retain moisture, which is what you want if you have dry summers. If you have a heavy topsoil with a heavier subsoil and base, it’s worth digging in compost to bulk it up and improve drainage and aeration. We’ll cover this more later in the series.

PRACTICAL

test three STEP-BY-STEP

DRAINAGE TEST

We’re always talking about good and bad drainage Some soils retain moisture well (even too well) and drain slowly, while others are open and free-draining. This simple test allows you to observe how quickly water drains in your soil. All you need is a spade and a bucket of water. It’s best to do the test when the soil is having an average day, not after an epic downpour or drought. It should be moist but not sodden before you begin, to ensure the drainage rate is more constant than if the soil starts out saturated or dry. If the soil is very dry, soak the ground a couple of days before you dig the hole.

1. DIG a hole that’s 30cm wide and deep.

2. POUR water in to fill the hole, then leave it overnight to drain and wet the surrounding soil particles. The next day, pour in another bucket of water.

3. CHECK the water in the hole every couple of minutes to see how it’s draining. GA

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1 2 READING THE RESULTS

3

If, on the second pour, the water drains rapidly, you have a sandy or very open, free-draining soil that loses moisture quickly. If the water drains steadily over half an hour or so, the soil is moderately well drained and will hold some moisture for plant roots to use.

If the water just sits there, the soil is heavy and probably prone to waterlogging, and will need some work to provide good growing conditions. Consider using raised beds or mounding the soil to provide plants with adequate drainage and air around the roots.

buttonhole A cheap and cheerful way to brighten dark days is to resume wearing flowers, writes JACKIE FRENCH

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PHOTOS GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCK

BRING BACK THE

AT HOME WITH JACKIE

B

ack in the 1890s, blokes wore flowers in their buttonholes – or, rather, one flower in one buttonhole at chest height on their coat or jacket. Australia also had a drought and a depression, but anyone who could grow a rosebush, or who ran past one on their way to the factory, had beauty every time they looked down at their chest, and a whiff of loveliness as well. (Women have always had the sense to wear flowers, from a flower tucked behind the ear, to a small garland around the ankle.)

Back in the 1930s depression, there weren’t just roses or carnations in blokes’ buttonholes, but also tiny vases for flowers on the dashboards of cars. Women wore flowers in their buttonholes, too, or pinned to their shoulder. By World War II, the flowers were even fancier. Sugar and butter might be rationed, but flowers could be free. (Or worth a small fortune, in the case of the rarer orchids.)

The world needs buttonhole flowers now, too. Who cares if they’re out of fashion? We’ll make them fashion again.

If we have to socially isolate, then our buttonholes will be a treat just for us, and one that anyone can have. All you need is a buttonhole and a flower.

If you don’t have a buttonhole in these days of tracksuits and stretch fabrics that don’t need buttoning, use a small safety pin. Slip the pin through the flow wherever it feels firmest. You could a wrap the flower stem in florist’s wire and pin that. Or you could even glue ti magnets to your clothes, then glue a matching piece of metal to every flow you’d like to place there, removing the magnets when the flowers wilt, and g

them again the next day. A small safety pin is easier, but you may not want to make multiple small holes in some fabrics.

Now attach. You know you’ve hit the sweet spot when you look down, slightly to one side, and you can just see – and smell – the buttonhole. Note: Don’t add a decorative sprig of baby’s breath or a contrasting leaf to your buttonhole flower.

Adding extras creates a formal ‘wedding type’ buttonhole, a boutonniere or even a corsage. We’re going for the ‘everyday’ kind, one without fuss and bother.

small lovely things

Which flower? The classic ones are ‘buttonhole’ roses especially bred for the purpose, and easy to grow – for example, ‘Bloomfield Abundance’ (the clue is in the name, ‘Abundance’). But many modern miniature rosebushes produce fabulous small blooms, and grow happily in a pot on a sunny windowsill, or in your garden.

Bright orange-red ‘Dwarf Fairy’, yellow ‘Ellie’, bright red ‘Firecracker’, almost white ‘Green Ice’, multicoloured ‘Little Sunset’… I could fill page after page with names. The secret to finding the right miniature is to browse catalogues, look at

rose nurseries online, or visit a garden centre.

You’ve found the right rose when you stop and smile at it.

These days, potted miniature roses can even be posted to you.

Any other miniature flower will make a gorgeous buttonhole, too. (Bigger blooms fall off, or you may leave a conspicuous trail of petals behind you.) Some excellent choices include dianthus – gloriously clove-scented – and even their larger relatives, carnations, beloved of that most discriminating flower wearer, Noël Coward.

Try a sprig of daphne or boronia, a frilly double daffodil, a multi-headed fragrant jonquil, two or three lavender flowers, or a cluster of primulas or pansies. Sprigs are easier if the stems are wrapped in aluminium foil to make a convenient (tiny) package to pin.

If you’re a man who might be a bit embarrassed leading the ‘bring back blokes wearing flowers’ campaign, try a sprig of scented lemon verbena leaves, or even some gumleaves or gumnuts.

I sprinkle the gumnuts I bring indoors with my favourite essential oil (rose geranium just now), but there’s no reason why they can’t be doused in aftershave.

If by chance you become so delighted with having flowers and their fragrance only a half-glance away, go ahead and add that baby’s breath and contrasting leaves and make yourself a boutonniere.

This is a time when we all need small lovely things right next to us. And everyone who has a sunny windowsill wide enough for a few pot plants can have a buttonhole to brighten each day. GA A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 59

TRAVEL

the

gardenerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; s bucket list LEURA in New South Wales, Australia

Cool-climate delights beckon in the charming ‘garden village’ of the Blue Mountains, says JUDY HORTON

PHOTOS ALAMY, COURTESY OF NATIONAL TRUST OF AUSTRALIA (NSW)

I

t takes less than two hours to be transported from Sydney’s humid coastal plain to the clear alpine air of Leura in the Upper Blue Mountains. This charming township with European-style gardens filled with desirable cool-climate plants has long been a destination of choice for garden lovers. Leura’s varied landscapes range from small, flower-filled cottage plots to the epitome of ‘hill station’ style, Everglades House & Gardens, which is owned by the National Trust (NSW).

Leura is a delight in every season.

Summer provides a cool escape, autumn shows off the brilliant colours of falling leaves, and winter encourages brisk walks to admire the bare tracery of deciduous trees. Then there’s the highlight season of spring, when the enduringly popular Leura Gardens Festival displays the town’s gardens at their glorious peak. The festival has run since 1965 and will be missed by everyone this year, but the organisers are planning a celebratory reopening over two weekends in October 2021.

The Gundungurra and Dharug people occupied the Leura area for millennia. Then, after European explorers first crossed the mountains in 1813, permanent settlers began to arrive – mostly rail workers and coalminers for much of the 19th century. It wasn’t until the opening of Leura railway station in 1891 that the township really expanded.

The railway’s proximity ensured the town remained accessible to a broad spectrum of society, and to this day, tiny timber holiday houses sit side by side with substantial stone mansions.

Everglades was set to become one of the grandest of the Leura estates. In 1933, Belgian-born Henri Van de Velde, of Feltex flooring fame, purchased the difficult, sloping 5.2ha site and engaged local landscaper Paul Sorensen to help unlock its potential. Sorensen had emigrated from his native Denmark in 1915 and, no doubt drawn by Leura’s suitability for growing his favoured cool-climate plants, had chosen this town to set up his home, nursery and landscaping business.

LEFT TO RIGHT FROM MAIN Drifts of spring-blooming azaleas in the grounds of heritage-listed Everglades House & Gardens in Leura; the estate’s two-storey Art Deco house; set into a brick wall, the former entrance to The London Chartered Bank of Australia building in Sydney was repurposed as the backdrop to Everglades’ outdoor theatre.

TRAVEL

Sorensen, aided by Depression-era teams of workmen, designed and built the terraces, paths and walls that continue to enchant visitors, guiding them from Everglades’ entrance gardens through to the outdoor theatre, across the courtyard of the well-preserved Art Deco house, past spectacular mountain vistas, down to the Grotto Pool, and eventually to the lookout over a dramatic bushland gully.

Almost a century later, Sorensen’s spirit still hovers over Everglades, and inspires the style of many other Leura gardens.

Leura township, which proudly retains its village atmosphere, has become a weekend tourist mecca. Cherry-blossom-lined Leura Mall, with its enticing selection of wallet-lightening shops and waist-expanding cafes, is a browser’s heaven. Away from 62

O C T O B E R 2 02 0

its centre, the township blends gradually into eucalypt forests intersected by waterfalls and sandstone-lined precipices, then down into valleys carpeted with temperate rainforest.

NEED TO KNOW

Leura is an easy daytrip from Sydney by car or train, or on a coach tour. If you want to stay longer, there are numerous local accommodation options. Leura Gardens Festival (leuragardensfestival.com.au) will run next year over two long weekends, October 2–4 and 8–10, 2021. At the time of going to print, Everglades House & Gardens (nationaltrust.org.au/places/evergladeshouse-gardens) was open Thursday to Monday with a COVID-safe timed ticketing system; booking is essential. GA

G ARDENING AUSTR ALIA

WHILE YOU ARE THERE The Blue Mountains Botanic Garden Mount Tomah

About one hour’s drive from Leura, these 28ha of manicured cool-climate gardens are within the World Heritage-listed Greater Blue Mountains Area. Open 9am to 5pm daily, except Christmas Day. Free entry. bluemountainsbotanic garden.com.au

Echo Point and Three Sisters

Accessible from Leura by road or the 3.2km bushwalk from Leura Cascades, Echo Point overlooks the majestic Jamison Valley and the Three Sisters, one of Australia’s most recognised rock formations.

Parking is metered and can be tight on weekends. Visitor Information Centre and facilities. Echo Point Road, Katoomba. visitnsw.com/ destinations/blue-mountains

Aboriginal Blue Mountains Walkabout

Learn the ancient wisdom of pre-European Blue Mountains life on this Aboriginal owned and guided walk. Starts and finishes at Faulconbridge railway station, about a 30-minute drive from Leura. Booking is essential. bluemountainswalkabout.com For more information, visit bluemts.com.au/ info/towns/leura

PHOTOS ALAMY, COURTESY OF NATIONAL TRUST OF AUSTRALIA (NSW), ISTOCK

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE A lookout at Everglades House & Gardens frames the spectacular view of the Blue Mountains’ sandstone formations; ranging from easy to hard, there are seven main designated bushwalks in the Leura area, with five of those taking in waterfalls; in the centre of town, Leura Mall’s cherry trees are bursting with blossoms in spring.

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Ready S

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Luckily feeding your plants s a healthy diet is as easyy as digging in some nu utrient-rich ActivGrow into your soil.

All that t remains is to choos se which crops you’d like to grow, plant yo our seeds or cuttings and move on to the third and final step.

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a month in the

OCT

O

ER

GARDEN More than 50 jobs to do in your action planner words JUDY HORTON

YOUR PLANNER

TOP JOB

PLANT POTTED ROSES

Select potted roses now while they’re in bloom, to allow you to choose the flower colour and perfume and know exactly what you’re getting. Prepare a well-drained, sunny planting spot and dig in organic compost or aged manure. Water the rose well before easing it out of the pot (left). Treat it with care – at this time of year, plenty of new roots are emerging and could be easily damaged. Settle the rose into the planting hole, replace the soil, water well, and mulch over the root area with a leafy mulch or chopped lucerne hay. Don’t fertilise for at least one month after planting.

It ’s time to...

create a

lizard-friendly garden

PHOTOS ALAMY, ISTOCK, KIM WOODS RABBIDGE

Skinks (inset) and other lizards are some of your best garden friends, so create a welcoming environment for them. Spread around some leaf litter and plant clumping natives, such as lomandra, libertia and kangaroo grass, to give them places to hide. Add hollow logs, empty pots or pieces of pipe for rain shelters. Put a flat rock in a protected spot where they can sunbake. Importantly, avoid using chemicals in the garden.

Watch out

FLICK WEED (Cardamine hirsuta)

This annoying little weed pops up in all sorts of places and in any dampish, sturbed soil. One of the world’s most espread weeds, this tiny plant from the cabbage family gets its common name from its habit of explosively shooting out ripe seeds. Consistent and committed handweeding is the best form of control, ideally removing the plants before they develop their white, four-petalled flowers.

Pot up coleus seedlings (above) and cuttings to provide leafy colour for shady spots in the summer garden Prune wisteria and other spring bloomers immediately after they have finished flowering Use hedge clippers or a power trimmer to cut back shabby and overgrown clumps of grassy lomandra, dianella and pennisetum Plant dahlia tubers in a sunny spot where the plants can be easily watered in the summer heat (see page 14 for more on growing dahlias) Cut back native hibiscus (Alyogyne huegelii) by two-thirds after its main spring flowering, and feed with blood and bone Remove small fruit forming on ornamental spring blossom trees so they don’t become hosts for fruit fly Move potted dendrobium and cymbidium orchids into a bright, warm position out of direct sunlight Sprinkle fertiliser and spread mulch onto moist soil immediately after spring rains Pick off and bin rotten and mildewed blooms on plants such as sweet pea, stock, azalea and dianthus Plant summer-flowering perennial salvias, which will add colour to your garden for months

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 67

Do it now

Remove new suckers from the root systems of elms and grafted robinias Thin crowded clumps of elkhorn fern, attaching smaller pieces to backing board Plant pots and beds with colourful annuals for your Christmas garden display Pinch back and tidy hanging basket plants such as fuchsia, cape primrose and calibrachoa Divide and replant bearded iris (below) after the flowers fade, ensuring the top of the rhizome (inset) is exposed to the sun

TOP JOB

plant sunflowers with kids

Growing sunflowers in pots or in the ground is a great way to get the kids outside and into the garden.

Begin your sunflower adventure by choosing the variety to grow. Visit a garden centre, or buy seed online, making sure you select from Australian suppliers to avoid any quarantine issues. Your choice will be governed by the available growing space and what you want the plants to do.

‘Giant Russian’ is best if the kids want to hold their own ‘Grow the Dig out rooted pieces of canna lily and use them to fill difficult, poorly drained spots in the garden Pour boiling water over weeds that are popping up between pavers Propagate frangipanis from large cuttings while they are still bare of leaves, drying the pieces for a few weeks before potting into a sandy mix Increase the amount of food that you put into your worm farm gradually as temperatures rise, helping the worms to process it by cutting it into small pieces Use hedge shears to lightly trim thryptomene, wax flower (Philotheca spp. and Chamelaucium spp.) and native mint bush (Prostanthera spp.)

68 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

Tallest Sunflower’ competition. As this variety reaches up to 4m tall, it needs a wind-protected position and may require staking – but just imagine the fun of growing a sunflower that’s so much taller than you are!

If space is tight, choose a dwarf cultivar, such as ‘Teddy Bear’, that will be happy in a pot.

Kids love its name as much as its fluffy yellow flowers.

There are dozens of other sunflower varieties that are

GROW A NEW

passionfruit vine

A passionfruit vine is generally good for 3–5 years, so plan to have a new one coming on to eventually replace your existing one. As spring is the time to get started, think about buying a new grafted plant or growing one from seed now. Choose a sunny spot well away from the established vine, ideally next to a supporting fence or wall. Mix lots of organic matter into the soil before planting, and feed the plant twice a year with a fruit-promoting fertiliser. Be patient – it can take at least a couple of years for the first crop of fruit to form.

YOUR PLANNER tall, medium or small, single or double, and have flowers in shades of lemon, gold, butter or yellow, as well as bicolour or near-white.

Sunflowers, as the name suggests, need a sunny spot, plus regular watering and liquid fertiliser to support their rapid growth. They have manageable seeds that are easy for little fingers to handle. Before sowing, dig over the bed and mix in some compost. Push the seeds into the soil to a depth of about 2.5cm, and water daily until seedlings appear. A layer of straw or sugarcane mulch keeps the roots cool and moist as the weather gets warmer, but teach the kids to poke their fingers through the mulch to check when watering is required.

PHOTOS LUKE SIMON, ISTOCK

DOUBLE UP ON CORN SEEDS

Double your chances of successful sweetcorn germination by sowing two seeds into each planting hole (right). If two seedlings emerge, pull out the weaker one in the early stages. Be sure to sow corn in small blocks of 2–3 rows rather than single rows. This creates a cloud of pollen over the group when pollen is released from the male flowers at the top of the plants, increasing the chance of pollen landing on the silks of the developing cobs below.

Some sunflower varieties develop edible seeds as the flowers age, but you have to be ready to beat the birds to them. Cockatoos can come from miles away to enjoy the seeds! Either sacrifice the seeds to attract the birds, or wrap the developing seed heads in the type of wildlife-friendly mesh bags used to protect ripening fruit.

And remember, you could always start another garden project with the kids and build a scarecrow that keeps watch over your sunflowers.

Sunflower seeds are available from these suppliers: copsley-ornamentals.com.au diggers.com.au edenseeds.com.au mrfothergills.com.au yates.com.au

Top tip

sow & plant…

IN OCTOBER

artichoke (globe) asian greens basil beans (french, climbing) beetroot broccoli cabbage capsicum, chilli carrot celery chives choko coriander eggplant ginger kale kohlrabi leek lettuce melon okra onion potato pumpkin radish rocket rosella silverbeet spring onion squash, zucchini sweet potato sweetcorn tomato turnip

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KEY

tropical subtropical arid/semi-arid warm temperate cold temperate

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

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O C T O B E R 2 02 0 69

Edible garden

Hill up soil around early potatoes (above) and plant more tubers for later cropping Thin crowded clusters of young fruit, allowing more room for the remaining fruit to develop Grow tomatoes in containers if they’ve experienced disease in garden beds Control citrus stink bugs by picking them off with tongs and dropping them into soapy water, covering your eyes and skin to avoid their caustic squirts Bag clusters of ripening loquats to protect them from fruit fly attack Harvest the last of the leeks to make room for planting summer vegies Get melons off to an early start, especially if the soil is still cool, by sowing seeds into small pots for transplanting the seedlings later Plant cold-sensitive fruit trees, such as tamarillo, pawpaw and mango, to give them maximum growth time before next winter Check leaves on olive trees for discolouration caused by sap-sucking olive lacebug, and spray infestations with insecticidal soap Collect fallen pine needles (left) and use them to mulch around acid-loving strawberries and blueberries

70 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

Spring is the time to get your potted succulents into shape. Here’s how: Inspect plants for mealy bug infestation or rotted root systems, and discard any affected plants.

Use secateurs or a sharp pair of pointed scissors to cut out dead or damaged sections of the plants.

Carefully remove any weeds that have sprung up in and around the plants during the cooler months.

Re-pot plants that have been

Watch out

growing in the same mix for several years. Use a specialised succulent mix, or make your own blend with one-third clean sand and two-thirds regular potting mix.

Feed plants with a slow-release fertiliser, and apply a solution of liquid seaweed.

Mulch the surface of the mix with a layer of gravel, choosing a colour and particle size that suits the plant, the pot and your decor.

THRIPS ON GLADIOLI AND DAYLILIES

Thrips are sap-sucking pests that emerge in spring and feed on plants such as gladioli and daylilies, causing distortion and discolouration of leaves (left) and petals. If you suspect thrips activity, look inside the buds or at the base of the leaves for these tiny, dark insects. Thrips hate water, so spray the plants a couple of times a day with a gentle jet from the hose. If the problem continues, you may have to use an insecticidal soap, applying it right into the base of the clump.

Top tip

ROTATE TOMATOES TOMATOES CAN BE AFFECTED BY A NUMBER OF SOILBORNE FUNGAL DISEASES, SO IT’S GOOD PRACTICE TO PLANT THEM IN A DIFFERENT GARDEN BED EACH YEAR. AVOID RETURNING TO THE SAME PLANTING SPOT FOR AT LEAST THREE SEASONS.

PHOTOS PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATSKY, ISTOCK, LUKE SIMON, GAP PHOTOS/LYNN KEDDIE

tidy up potted succulents

YOUR PLANNER

ADD SOME

seasonal glamour

Create a little pizzazz in your spring garden by planting the spectacular pride of Madeira (Echium candicans, above). In spring, this dry-tolerant, short-lived shrub is covered with deep purple-blue flower spikes that stand above mounds of soft grey, slightly hairy leaves.

The hairy coat helps to protect the leaves, and makes this plant a particularly good choice for seaside gardens.

A pride of Madeira in full bloom is so attractive to bees that it’s often called the bee plant. Originally from the Mediterranean, this beauty likes a sunny spot with excellent drainage. Left alone, it can grow up to 2.5m high, but pruning lightly every year after the flowers fade keeps it a little more manageable. Pride of Madeira can tolerate light frosts to about –2°C. Gardeners in cooler climates can also grow the towering E. wildpretii and E. pininana, which reach 3–4m tall and usually flower in the second year before dying. Some echiums are weedy, so check for weed potential in your area by consulting your local council or visiting weeds.org.au

STEP-BY-STEP

TAKE HEEL CUTTINGS OF FUCHSIA

pics

Pick mangosteens (above) when the fruit has coloured to a reddish pink Tie shiny objects or hang bells in mango trees to keep flying foxes away from the developing fruit Monitor plants and soil moisture so plants don’t suffer during dry periods Plant cassava and yams to allow time for them to become established before the Wet Divide and re-pot vanda, dendrobium and epidendrum (crucifix) orchids Cut off sturdy pandanus branches that have developed stilt roots, and pot up to create new specimens Fill a water-holding container with enriched, boggy soil, and plant water chestnut corms Replace tired vegetables in the patch with tropical varieties such as ceylon spinach, vietnamese mint and kangkong (water spinach) Carefully remove excess banana and plantain suckers for planting in other parts of the garden Plant a ylang-ylang (Cananga odorata) in a larger garden, in a spot where its flowers (below) can share their amazing perfume

72 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

1 CHOOSE cutting material towards the tip of the branch that is firm enough to snap when bent. It should also be healthy and free of pests or disease.

Select a side shoot, hold it firmly at the base, then carefully pull it down so it comes away with a ‘heel’ or strip of bark from the main stem. The heel contains lots of exposed cambium cells that have the potential to form roots.

2 TRIM OFF any rough edges at the tip of the heel. Cut the top off the cutting, if necessary, to shorten its length to about 10cm. Remove most of the lower leaves, keeping a few at the top. This will reduce unwanted moisture loss from the cutting.

3 DIP the heel into honey to protect the cut surface from harmful bacteria.

4 FILL a small pot with some moist propagation mix. Use a pencil or stick to make a hole in the centre, then insert the cutting and gently water it in.

Move the pot into shade, and cover it with a cut-off plastic bottle to create a mini greenhouse. The cover helps to prevent the cutting drying out. Check on the mix every couple of days to see if it needs more water.

It should take about 1–2 months for roots to form, and for new growth to start appearing at the top, after which you can remove the plastic covering.

Give the rooted cutting some liquid fertiliser to encourage growth, and re-pot it into a larger container when it outgrows the current one.

As the cutting grows, gradually move it to a brighter, semi-shaded position to harden it off in preparation for planting.

1

2

3

4

PHOTOS ISTOCK, FIONA WALSH, ROBERT FRITH/ACORN PHOTO

e

You can propagate fuchsias from cuttings any time from spring to early autumn. TINO CARNEVALE demonstrates how to take heel cuttings and pot them up.

YOUR PLANNER

Celebrating

22 YeArs YEARS

Waters a LARGE area up to 15 metre diameter.

Average flow rate of 10 LPM. Removable filter for dam or river water use.

Able to run multiple sprinklers from the same tap.

Love your lawn

PRESSURE P.S.I

5

10

15

20

25

30

40

APPROX DIAMETER IN METRES

6.2

12

13.8

14.5

14.8

15

16

USAGE L.P.M

4.1

6

7.3

9.1

10

10.7

13

Spring into lawn maintenance this month to get it into shape for summer. Dig out broad-leafed weeds by hand, or sprinkle high-nitrogen fertiliser, such as sulfate of ammonia, into the centre to burn them out. Sow grass seed into bare patches, or transplant runners taken from thicker parts of the lawn. Aerate established lawn by spiking all over with a garden fork, or rent a mechanical aerator from an equipment hire shop. Level uneven areas by filling hollows with sand, soil or compost in layers no deeper than 10mm at a time. Feed the lawn with a slow-release lawn fertiliser.

START GROWING BASIL

Sow the seed of your favourite basil variety directly into the ground or large containers, or if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still a bit cold where you are, get them started in small pots on a sunny windowsill.

Moisten the soil or potting mix, then scatter a few of the tiny seeds on top. Keep them moist, thin crowded seedlings, and feed them regularly with liquid fertiliser. Pinch back the tips to encourage bushy growth. Harvest and enjoy!

Waters a SMALL area up to 8 metre diameter.

Average flow rate of 4 LPM. Purpose shaped base for roof cooling.

Removable filter for dam or river water use.

Able to run multiple sprinklers from the same tap.

SIZE OF DISC USED

1.25MM DISC

1.5MM DISC

1.75MM DISC

2.0MM DISC

WITHOUT DISC

WATERING DIAMETER

1.5M TO 3.0M

2.5M TO 4.0M

3.5M TO 5.0M

4.5M TO 6.0M

EFFECTIVE UP TO 8M

APPROX. LITRES/MIN

2.5

3.0

3.5

4.5

6.5

Available from AGnVET, AIRR, Bunnings, CRT, Dahlsens, Elders, Home Hardware, Landmark, Mitre 10, Plants Plus, Pursehouse Rural, Thrifty Link, Total Eden, True Value and Tuckers. Or ask your local Hardware or Rural Retail Store.

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aussiegardener.com.au/veg What is one good thing about Covid?

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JOIN THE CONVERSATION You two are inspiring. I have been having another go at gardening veggies after previously given up, and recommended your site to all my gardening friends.

Love your videos and love the presentation style – very “Aussie”.

Even my husband complimented and that is saying something.

I’m loving your classes. I’m making a gardening journal to take notes for the future.

Love the videos and watch them a few times over.

PHOTOS ISTOCK, JESSIE PRINCE

IN THE

PATCH

Horticultural editor and devoted food grower PHIL DUDMAN shows you what to plant, pick and tend in the edible garden this month

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 75

PLANT it NOW

PICK it NOW

no longer stand the heat. You are more likely to find okra seed than seedlings at your garden centre, so if you can’t pick up a punnet, grab a packet of seed.

Okra seeds have a hard coat, so soak them in water overnight before planting.

MULBERRY

Mulberries are ripe when they are plump, have fully coloured, and fall easily into your hand when you pick them. A good way to harvest large quantities is to place a tarp or old bedsheet on the ground beneath a branch, then give the branch a good shake to release the ripe fruit.

To agitate a higher branch, throw a rope over it and pull the rope sharply. A light pruning straight after harvest can often stimulate a second crop to form on the resulting new growth.

76 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

Sow seeds directly in the ground 2cm deep and 45cm apart. Drop two seeds into each hole, and if they both germinate, remove the weaker one. Alternatively, start seed in multicell punnets filled with a premium seed-raising mix. This is a good option if it’s still cool where you are, because you can place the punnets inside on a warm, sunny windowsill. Keep the mix moist, and the seeds should germinate in about 12 days.

Okra likes full sun and a well-drained soil that has been enriched with compost.

Originating in arid areas, the plant isn’t particularly demanding of water or nutrients, but it won’t say no to a regular drink and the occasional feed.

The pods get a bad rap for being a bit slimy when cooked. To avoid this, pick them when young and small, dry them thoroughly after washing (so they don’t steam and become slimy), and cook them in small batches using high heat.

PHOTOS ISTOCK, PHIL DUDMAN

Okra is a versatile vegetable that can be sauteed, stewed, deep-fried, grilled, roasted or pickled. In the garden, the plant thrives in warm to hot conditions, providing a reliable harvest of okra pods at the peak of summer when some other vegies in the patch can

OKRA

IN THE PATCH

GINGER

CROPS IN POTS

If you love cooking with ginger, you really should grow some. It is easy to grow in pots and makes an attractive, tropical-looking container display up to 1m tall. Growing ginger in pots also offers gardeners in cool marginal areas greater potential for success, because the pots can be moved to capture the best possible conditions.

Ginger likes heat and humidity. Think Sunshine Coast and Wide Bay–Burnett, in subtropical Queensland, where ginger is grown commercially. If you live on the coast north of Coffs Harbour, it’s easy growing. Further south, in spring and autumn, keep your pot in the warmest spot you’ve got, such as a glasshouse or in front of a sunny, north-facing wall.

In tropical and subtropical areas, ginger will grow in full sun, too, but move your container into a spot with semi-shade or dappled light during the hottest periods.

To get started, pick up a nice plump, healthy ginger root (rhizome) from an organic grocer. You can plant the whole thing or cut it into smaller pieces 5–10cm long. Just make sure each section has an ‘eye’ or bud (the little knobbly bits), as this is where shoots will form.

Go for a pot at least 30cm wide with a similar depth, and fill it with a 5:1 blend of premium potting mix and coir peat, for extra moisture retention. Plant the rhizome 2cm deep. If planting smaller pieces, space them about 20cm apart.

A 30cm pot can comfortably support one large rhizome or three small ones.

Ginger normally breaks its winter dormancy and starts to shoot in October or November. In cooler areas, you can increase heat and humidity to encourage early shooting by covering the top of

the container with some clear plastic.

Freshly planted ginger rhizomes are prone to rot if they become too wet, so allow the mix to dry out a bit between waterings. Gradually increase watering after the rhizomes shoot, which is usually a month or so after planting.

Fertilise once a month with pelletised poultry manure to encourage growth.

By late autumn or winter, your rhizomes will have multiplied significantly, giving you lovely fresh, succulent ginger to harvest.

You can pull up the whole plant or just cut out a chunk for the kitchen as needed.

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O C T O B E R 2 02 0 77

1 2

3

STEP-BY-STEP

PLANT ZUCCHINI

1 REMOVE any weeds in the garden bed and loosen the soil with a garden fork.

2 ADD some organic pelletised fertiliser (pictured) and compost to the soil.

3 SUPPORT the top of the punnet with your fingers, tip it upside down, and give it a gentle squeeze to release the seedlings.

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G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

PHOTOS FIONA WALSH, ALAMY

When the soil warms up, it’s time to get seedlings of zucchini and other cucurbits into the ground. TINO CARNEVALE is in ‘The Patch’ at the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens in Hobart, showing how this is done.

IN THE PATCH

helping HAND Tips for tackling this month’s problems

WHY ARE MY LEMONS DRY?

In dry conditions during summer, when the fruit are forming on lemon trees, the flesh can become dry.

A lack of nutrients can also cause this. When you haven’t seen good rain for a while, particularly in the warmer months, give your lemon tree a deep soaking once a fortnight or so, if restrictions allow and you can spare the water. Also, be sure to apply an organic fertiliser every 2–3 months from August to April.

If the flesh is brown as well, you may have a boron deficiency. To fix this, dissolve 1 tablespoon of borax in hot water, add it to a 9L watering can filled with cool water, mix well, and spread it under the canopy.

PEST ALERT

4 4 SEPARATE the seedlings by gently pulling them apart at the base, being careful to keep the individual root systems intact.

5 PLANT the seedlings in the ground, making sure the base of each stem is at the same level in the soil as it was in the punnet.

Gently firm and water in.

During hot conditions, set up a little shadecloth tent to cover the seedlings for a few days, to help them settle in.

5

Brown, dry flesh in lemons can also be caused by the spined citrus bug, which pierces the rind and sucks out the juice. Adult bugs are green and 15mm long, with a conspicuous spine on eac shoulder. The nymphs are green with black spots, and have yellow, orange and white markings when very young and small. If you see them at any stage of their development, pick them off and drop them into a bucket with a little soapy water at the bottom.

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 79

Summer

FIESTA

W

hen you think of ‘must have’ crops to grow for summer eating, capsicum is right up there with the best. Brightly coloured and bursting with flavour, it is used in so many seasonal dishes that depend on its sweet, crunchy, colourful flesh – from salads, salsa and ratatouille to tasty barbecue kebabs.

Growing your own capsicum allows you to explore interesting varieties that are not normally available at your grocer – some that are suited to eating fresh, others that are perfect for frying, and those that just beg to be grilled, peeled and drizzled with

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extra virgin olive oil and a little garlic.

When the plant is at its productive peak, you often have more fruit than you need, so you can really go to town with them in your cooking... and who wouldn’t?

Freshly picked, home-grown capsicum is so much sweeter, crunchier and more succulent than any you could hope to buy.

getting started

Capsicum likes warm conditions and grows in all parts of the country. In the tropics, it crops almost year-round, and you may get two or more years out of a plant. In cold areas, you’re limited to growing capsicum

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

in the warmer months, but the protection of a greenhouse will extend your season.

Capsicum is miserable in a cold winter, and may reshoot in spring if protected, but in most areas it’s generally best to plant fresh seedlings each spring, after the last frost.

The plants grow well in a sunny spot that is protected from wind. As capsicum is related to tomato, eggplant, potato and chilli, it experiences many of the same pests and diseases, so it’s best not to plant it in a spot where any of those have been growing in the past three or so years.

Most soil types are fine for capsicum, if the soil is well drained and has plenty

PHOTOS ISTOCK, JESSIE PRINCE

Nothing beats a sweet, juicy, home-grown capsicum, and you can have success with this fruit in all zones, says PHIL DUDMAN

IN THE PATCH

Try pots CAPSICUM CAN ALSO BE GROWN IN

POTS, WITH ONE PLANT PER POT (40–50CM WIDE) FILLED WITH PREMIUM POTTING MIX.

Phil’s

of organic matter. Add some compost or well-rotted manure when preparing your soil, and sprinkle around some blood and bone and sulfate of potash. If your soil is heavy, create mounds to further improve the drainage. With a sandy soil, add extra compost to retain moisture and reduce problems with root-knot nematode.

Seedlings are readily available in spring, and they provide the easiest and quickest way to get started. The selection available is often limited to popular choices such as Californian Wonder, so if you want to explore some of the other interesting heirloom varieties, sowing seed is the way to go. The seed takes 10–20 days to germinate in warm conditions.

Space the seedlings about 50cm apart when planting, as this will allow enough room for air to move freely around the plants, reducing potential fungal problems.

After watering them in, mulch the surface with some compost or straw.

care & harvesting

Water consistently and deeply, particularly when fruit are forming. The plants need regular feeding, too, but don’t overdo it or they’ll become soft and sappy. A sprinkling of pelletised chicken manure once a month is ideal, and give them another application of sulfate of potash about three months after planting. If you have a capsicum bush that’s in its second year, give it a spring trim, a dressing of compost, some fertiliser and a deep drink, to stimulate lots of new growth and fruit production.

Californian Wonder Best known. Large bell-like ruit with thick walls. Very eet. Eat raw or cooked.

Great for grilling and bottling.

Banana High-yielding. Fruit 15cm long. Pale yellow skin turns orange.

Good for salads, frying and pickling.

Padron Spanish favourite. Small fruit. Some are hot, some not – try your luck! Fried and salted for tapas.

TOP PICKS

Corno Rosso Italian heirloom.

Fruit 25cm long with thick walls and bright red skin. Mild heat. Good for stuffing, grilling and frying.

Sweet Chocolate Deep brown, medium to large, tapered fruit. Very sweet, thick flesh. Great for salads and stuffing.

Purple Beauty Medium fruit. Thick, crunchy flesh. Ripens from green to black to deep purple. Ideal for salads.

OPPOSITE Capsicum fruit are heavy and can topple a plant, so stake them for support.

RIGHT Different capsicum varieties are available in the colours of the rainbow, and they change as they ripen.

Although capsicum bushes are generally self-supporting, they can sometimes topple over under the weight of all that fruit, so put in at least one small stake to keep them propped up. In hot weather, the plants will benefit from a shadecloth tent using a 30 per cent shadecloth, to reduce heat stress for the plants and avoid sun scald, which ruins the fruit.

Green fruit can be picked any time as needed, but for the sweetest flavours, wait until the fruit have reached full size and are fully coloured. Always cut the fruit off the plant at the stem, as pulling them off damages the plant. GA

at a glance common name capsicum botanic name Capsicum annuum plant type fruiting bush

70cm

full sun spring to early summer (autumn to winter in the tropics) 3–4 months

PROBLEM-SOLVING CHECKLIST Blossom-end rot Water plants deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods

Whitefly Spray with natural pyrethrum or horticultural oil, making contact with the pest

Broad mite Remove affected growth and establish a weekly spray program, alternating horticultural oil and soap sprays

50cm

Frut fly Install fruit fly lures or cover developing fruit with pestexclusion bags suitable

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 81

MAILBOX

My backyard is a tiny courtyard that’s shaded by trees and buildings for most of the day. I’d like to grow flowers for colour and cutting, but are there any that can cope with the shade? I have a couple of raised beds set into stone, and could fit a pot or two on the ground.

Kay Bryant, Stanmore, NSW

MARIANNE CANNON SAYS

Flowering plants that don’t mind shade for most of the day include peace lilies (Spathiphyllum spp., above right), which grow happily outdoors in a temperate

climate with no frost. They are not true lilies, but members of the Araceae family, which includes the calla lily and anthuriums.

In their natural habitat in the tropics, peace lilies grow on the rainforest floor where there is low light, but they also tolerate a wide temperature range. The typical flower is a modified leaf (spathe), usually white,

which protects a central spike that carries the actual, tiny flowers. They flower from spring to early summer.

Other contenders are hellebores (Helleborus x hybridus, far left), which flower from winter to spring, and come n white, yellow, pink, dark red and even green. These easy-care plants like to be eft undisturbed for many years, preferring partial shade and moist soil. Many new ultivars produce nodding, buttercup-like owers that rise up to 45cm above the ark green, leathery foliage.

For larger, strappy-leafed plants with howy, trumpet-like flowers, clivias (Clivia pp.) give an impressive display from late nter to early summer. Once seen only in der gardens, and with pale peach-orange owers, they now come in all shades of ange, yellow, cream and white. Clivias reach 50cm–1m high, slowly growing into larger clumps that are easily divided. They’d look terrific in a large pot or half wine barrel.

Peace lilies, hellebores and clivias all make great cut flowers. There are also many perennials that flower in the shade and can be grown from seed, including foxgloves, forget-me-nots and violets.

While cleaning up the woodpile, an idea came to me to use this segment of a gum tree – which was removed when it became dangerous – as an insect high-rise. The bark has been left on top, too, to possibly house a family of huntsman spiders, with an area underneath for skinks.

As the months turn warmer, there are plans to add a pool.

Walter Davis, Bungendore, NSW

82 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

PHOTOS ISTOCK (HELLEBORE AND PEACE LILY)

LOG CABIN

COMING UP ROSES IN THE SUBTROPICS

We moved to Terranora, on the north coast of New South Wales, five years ago. The view of the ocean and the lush, green Tweed Valley drew us in, so we left the Gold Coast for a quieter life and a larger garden. I had always wanted a rose garden but, when I mentioned it, the locals said that it wasn’t the climate for roses and I would have all sorts of problems. My husband wouldn’t be deterred, however, and set about filling the garden with magenta roses – the colour I had in my wedding bouquet. Being novices with rose growing, we pruned them a bit late this year and they came into flower when the hot sun had already set in. Their first flush was small and unimpressive, but the autumn flush… wow!

And, as if on cue, they were bringing us happiness when the COVID lockdown happened. What a blessing to have a garden!

Julie Easthope, Terranora, NSW

write and win!

Q

When I was cutting firewood, I found these imprints under the bark in some wood from a messmate stringybark gum tree. I’d like to know what made them... because I’m now petrified that a 20-legged mutant spider is going to jump on me!

Lisa Brooker, Warragul, Vic

MARTYN ROBINSON SAYS

These are the feeding tunnels of bark beetles of the family Curculionidae and the subfamily Scolytinae, which means they’re a very specialised group of weevils! The common name comes from the fact that many species feed in the phloem layer under the bark, creating these intricate patterns (right), which are revealed when the tree dies and the bark falls off or is removed.

Some of the bark beetle species carry fungal spores to infect the sapwood, then they feed on the fungus, while other species feed on the wood itself. In most cases, the trees are already sick, dead or dying when the beetles attack them, but some species attack live, healthy trees.

Overseas, Dutch elm disease is caused by some species in this group of beetles.

Got something to say? Share your thoughts, ask a question, slip us a tip and show us your best shots.

The pick of the crop each month wins a six-month subscription to ABC Gardening Australia magazine (current subscriptions will be extended).

yoursay@gardeningaustralia.com.au (letters) experts@gardeningaustralia.com.au (questions) Your Say, Gardening Australia, nextmedia, Locked Bag 5555, St Leonards NSW 1590 FACEBOOK facebook.com/ABCGardeningAustraliamagazine INSTAGRAM @gardeningaustraliamag #gardeningaustraliamag

Walter Davis from Bungendore, NSW, has won a six-month subscription to ABC Gardening Australia magazine for creating a cabin for insects and other critters (opposite page). We also love the idea of a pool, Walter!

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 83

COMMUNITY SPIRIT

Since I retired, gardening has kept me active. One of the benefits is the happiness I feel when I harvest my vegetables. My latest crop was lebanese cucumber.

I grew three vines in a wicking bed, and they were so bountiful that I had the pleasure of distributing some to my neighbours and local community. At one stage, I had about 30 to give away, so I placed them on a chair in my driveway just before parents picked up their children from school. Needless to say, they were very well received. One person even requested five so they could make cucumber pickles. I agreed, and what a treat it was to receive a jar a couple of weeks later! I will keep on gardening for as long as I can.

Graham McMillan, Rochedale South, Qld

Your Insta posts

Clockwise from top left Making the most of a beautiful sunny day, rhyllpearson photographed flowers in the garden, including these vibrant yellow and orange violas. Meanwhile, jl.reads is getting ready to harvest home-grown passionfuit for the first time, while fishthatsright is pleased with a delicious haul of garden produce.

And goldgullyfarm says big eggs like this one usually have a double yolk inside, and that two chicks born from another large egg ended up being quite cheeky and have managed to form their own flock!

What’s the secret to growing turmeric?

I buy it, use most of it, and plant bits, but never achieve results like the huge clump of turmeric I saw on Gardening Australia earlier this year. Do I dig up the entire clump to harvest it?

Dorothy Roeth, Killarney, Qld grow your own turmeric, and you only need a small space to grow all that you require. Plant 5cm-long pieces in October, just as conditions start to warm up.

That’s when turmeric is ready to shoot and get growing.

It loves soil that is enriched with compost, so add plenty before planting. Spring is generally dry where you are in south-east Queensland, so water your turmeric regularly to sustain early growth. Once summer rains come, it probably won’t need any additional watering unless you get a dry spell. Turmeric responds well to feeding every 6–8 weeks with an organic fertiliser.

Keep that up, and by May you should have fairly large clumps of rhizomes. You can just use a serrated knife to chop out little pieces from the ground as you need them. I generally start doing this from around February.

84 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

PHOTO ISTOCK (TURMERIC)

PHIL DUDMAN SAYS It certainly is a joy to

MAILBOX

THIS BEAUTIFUL SUCCULENT WAS GIVEN TO ME BY A FRIEND. I HOPE YOU CAN IDENTIFY IT FOR ME.

Sue Peacock, Wauchope, NSW

COMPETITION OPEN TO AUSTRALIAN RESIDENTS ONLY. STARTS 14/9/20 AT 00:01 (AEST) AND CLOSES 11/10/20 AT 23:59 (AEDT). FIVE WINNERS WILL EACH RECEIVE A FRUIT SALAD TREE WORTH $69.95. TOTAL PRIZE POOL VALUE IS $349.75. ENTRIES JUDGED ON 13/10/20 AT 2PM AT NEXTMEDIA, LEVEL 8, 205 PACIFIC HWY, ST LEONARDS NSW 2065. THE JUDGES’ DECISION IS FINAL AND NO CORRESPONDENCE WILL BE ENTERED INTO. PRIZE SENT TO THE ADDRESS PROVIDED ON THE ENTRY. FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS AT GARDENINGAUSTRALIA.COM.AU. PRIVACY POLICY AVAILABLE AT NEXTMEDIA.COM.AU. PROMOTER IS NEXTMEDIA PTY LTD; ABN 84 128 805 970; 205 PACIFIC HIGHWAY, ST LEONARDS NSW 2065.

MARIANNE CANNON SAYS

This succulent is called donkey ears or palm beachbells (Kalanchoe gastonis-bonnieri), and it comes from Madagascar. It quickly reaches 45cm tall. The waxy, grey leaves, which grow up to 50cm long, are a lovely feature with their dark brown blotches. In autumn, flower spikes appear, with peach-coloured buds that open to display the typical kalanchoe flower of red and yellow. Flowering usually lasts for two months, then the plant dies back. However, as with many kalanchoes, it’s easy to grow new plants from the many plantlets that develop along the leaf margins. As a result, this plant can be a bit weedy (some kalanchoes are declared weeds), so keep an eye on it, and always dispose of unwanted plants responsibly.

FRUIT SALAD TREES

Fruit Salad Trees bear up to six types of fruit from the same family on the one tree, each retaining its own appearance, ripening time and flavour.

Stone Fruit Tree grows plums, peaches, nectarines, apricot and peachcot. Warm to cold climates.

3m high x 2m wide.

Citrus Fruit Tree grows oranges (winter and summer), lemon, mandarins, grapefruit, lime, tangelo, lemonade and pomelo. Dwarf variety. All climates except below –6°C. 2m high x 2m wide.

Apple Fruit Tree gro red-, green- and yellowapples. Varieties for all c cold climates. 3m high x Growing multi-grafte Salad Trees instead of s single varieties saves sp avoids the waste of exce Ideal for gardens, court or balconies, Fruit Salad can be planted all year i ground or in pots. The t are delivered Australiayear-round.

For more information visit fruitsaladtrees.com

We have five Fruit Salad Trees with two fruits (lemon and orange) on eac valued at $69.95 per tree, to give away. To enter, tell us in 25 words or le if you were a fruit, which other fruit would you pair with and why? Write name, address, daytime contact number and entry on the back of an envelo send it to Fruit Salad Trees Competition, Gardening Australia, nextmedia, Bag 5555, St Leonards NSW 1590, or email comp@gardeningaustralia.co with ‘Fruit Salad Trees’ in the subject line by October 11.

CLEVER CHOOK FEEDERS After seeing the chicken feeder made from a bucket on Gardening Australia, I made my own (above), and it has been a success. There’s less wastage and less food consumed by wild doves, and it keeps the chickens active.

I also made a bulk pellet feeder (inset) based on an old-style hopper feeder, but using PVC pipe and fittings to minimise wastage. It is dove-proof and has also slowed down the Indian mynas.

Stephen R, Macleod, Vic

IT EES

d at

5

CROSSWORD

take a break!

Put the kettle on – it’s time to relax! Solve our puzzle to be in the running to win a Saba Organics pack 1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

23 across A 10

11

12

13 14

15 16

17

WIN

19

25 27

29

across

31

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39 across C

39

1. Paste made from seasoned 22-down (4,7) 7. A single leaf of Allium schoenoprasum (5) 10. Area devoted to fruit trees (7) 11. Regional flora and fauna (5) 12. Long seed vessel (3) 13. Frozen water (3) 14. Leontodon taraxacoides or hairy … (7) 15. Genus of wild petunia (7) 17. Exudes sap or juice (6) 18. The essential constituent of vinegar, … acid (6) 19. They can ruin a picnic (4) 20. Capital of Samoa (4) 23. Tropical plant, source of a blue dye (6) (Picture A) 25. Babylonian and Assyrian goddess of love and war (6) 86 O C T O B E R 2 02 0

26

28 30

33

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37 across B

SEE OPPOSITE

24

35

21

29. Conifer producing durable wood (7) 31. Everlasting (3-4) 34. The objective case of ‘she’ (3) 35. Plant used in flavouring beer (3) 36. The edible fruit of the tree Malus pumila (5) 37. Plant also known as honesty (7) (Picture B) 38. A variety of wheat (5) 39. Lychnis coronaria or … (4,7) (Picture C)

down

1. A thin soup of meat or fish stock (5) 2. Plant with starchy seeds that are milled into flour in the US (9) 3. Seized, grasped (7) 4. Nakedness (6)

G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

5. Brown earthy mineral used as a pigment (5) 6. Having a cowl (6) 7. The wild mustard Sinapis arvensis (8) 8. Bionic ear or cochlear … (7) 9. Edible root closely related to taro (4) 16. Finger-shaped, cream-filled pastry (6) 17. Large three-sided nut (6) 21. Fragrant mixture of dried petals etc (9) 22. Aubergine (8) 24. Ten times as much (7) 26. Breastbone (7) 27. Dried berries used as a condiment (6) 28. Pungent bulb (6) 30. Outbuildings (5) 32. The dry seed of a cereal plant (5) 33. Genus of sumac (4)

CROSSWORD COMPILED BY STEVE BALL PHOTOS ISTOCK

129 SOLUTION NEXT MONTH

20

an organic pack 22

23

18

I

1 of 10

ORGANIC PACKS each valued at

$

56

Saba Organics is a certified organic range of products the skin, body, hair and home. Containing plant-based ingredients and essential oils, these Australian-made products support sustainable and ethical growing methods, and are non-toxic and greywater safe.

Each prize pack includes a 50ml spray bottle of Lavender Hand Sanitiser, a 50ml spray bottle of Wild Mint Mouth Freshener, a 500ml spray bottle of Sweet Orange Multi-purpose Cleaner, and a 500ml pump bottle of Lemon Tea Tree & Kunzea Hand Wash. To see the full range of products, including the 50ml Rose & Kakadu Plum Hand Sanitiser (inset), visit sabaorganics.com

how to enter

We have 10 Saba Organics packs, worth $56 each, to give away. Each pack includes Lavender Hand Sanitiser, Wild Mint Mouth Freshener, Sweet Orange Multi-purpose Cleaner, and Lemon Tea Tree & Kunzea Hand Wash. To enter, unscramble the highlighted letters in the crossword (opposite) and email your answer to comp@gardeningaustralia.com.au by October 4. Put ‘Saba Organics Pack’ in the subject line and include your name, street address, email and daytime phone number.

WINNERS

Eurolux Cookware frying pan (July 2020) W Armstrong, Winnejup, WA; W Nigl, St Clair, NSW; S Pallis, Oakden, SA.

solution C A S C A D E

S K U L L C A P

L I M A T E X L R M O K E T R E R X A B A C A N O N I T L M D A C E R D R U D O S E A R G I S H R O X A M P I O N E S I I M P E R N E O S G

September 2020 crossword B R O H A R V E S T E U D T N M U G W O N D A U A L A M P R U P O N H N C O L E S R F P U P E Y E H U M R P O O A S P A R A G L E U U R O S E L

E D I R T T E Y B G A G I B A A N K U S I L A

September’s unscrambled word: beekeeping G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

O C T O B E R 2 02 0 87

128

CROSSWORD COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS: OPEN TO AUSTRALIAN RESIDENTS ONLY. COMPETITION OPENS 14/9/2020 AT 00:01 (AEST) AND CLOSES 4/10/2020 AT 23:59 (AEDT). TEN LUCKY WINNERS WILL EACH RECEIVE A SABA ORGANICS PACK, WORTH $56 EACH. TOTAL PRIZE POOL VALUE IS $560. WINNERS DRAWN ON 6/10/2020 AT 14:00 (AEDT) AT 205 PACIFIC HIGHWAY, ST LEONARDS NSW 2065. WINNERS NOTIFIED BY TELEPHONE AND IN WRITING. PERMIT NUMBERS NSW LTPM/19/05228, ACT TP 19/04879. FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS AVAILABLE AT GARDENINGAUSTRALIA.COM.AU. PRIVACY POLICY AVAILABLE AT NEXTMEDIA.COM.AU. PROMOTER IS NEXTMEDIA PTY LTD; ABN 84 128 805 970; 205 PACIFIC HIGHWAY, ST LEONARDS NSW 2065.

nature’s gifts

GARDENING ON YOUR

radio

For more details about coverage in your area, phone 139 994 or visit reception.abc.net.au

NSW

ACT

Saturday 9am

Saturday 8.30am

Saturday 9am

SA

ABC Radio Sydney

September 18

Gardening Australia is on ABC TV every Friday at 7.30pm and is repeated on Sunday at 1.30pm and on iview.

Josh Byrne makes the most of a garden’s vertical space, Costa Georgiadis tours a bromeliad garden, Millie Ross meets some fungus farmers, Tino Carnevale plants a wildlife corridor, Jane Edmanson prepares to battle Queensland fruit fly, and we meet Blue Mountains artist and gardener Tricia Oktober.

September 25

ABC Radio Central Coast ABC Central West

ABC Radio Adelaide; ABC North & West; ABC Eyre Peninsula; ABC South East SA

Saturday 8.30am

ABC Illawarra Saturday 8.30am

ABC Mid North Coast; ABC Coffs Coast

Saturday 9.30am, Thursday 9.30am

ABC Newcastle Saturday 8.30am

ABC New England North West Saturday 8.30am, Thursday 9.30am

ABC North Coast Saturday 8.30am

Oc tober 2

ABC Riverina

ABC South East

ABC Western Plains

Thursday 9.35am fortnightly, Saturday 8.30am

NT

Saturday 9am

ABC Alice Springs; 106.1 ABC Tennant Creek

Tino Carnevale shows how to understand soil, Josh Byrne gives tips on staggering your harvest, Jane Edmanson creates some garden memories, Costa Georgiadis explores spring wildflowers, and guest presenter Hannah Moloney explains the food forest.

Oc tober 9

ABC Sunshine Coast

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QLD

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G A R D E N I N G AU S T R A L I A

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Statewide; ABC Radio Adelaide; ABC North & West; ABC Eyre Peninsula; ABC South East; ABC Riverland; ABC Broken Hill

ABC Radio Hobart; ABC Northern Tasmania

Saturday 9am, Tino Carnevale and Joel Rheinberger

VIC

Saturday 9.30am

ABC Central Victoria Thursday 9.30am

ABC Gippsland ABC Mildura-Swan Hill Tuesday 9.40am

ABC Ballarat

Wednesday 10.20am fortnightly

Saturday 6am

Friday 10am

Saturday 9am

Monday 10am

Monday 5.50pm

Gardening Australia is now broadcast with Audio Description, which describes important elements for people with a vision impairment. It can be turned on or off as needed. Visit help.abc.net.au

ABC Broken Hill

ABC Radio Melbourne; ABC Victoria

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Saturday 7am

TAS

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Saturday 8.30am

Millie Ross transforms lawn into a productive patch, Costa Georgiadis discovers seed that’s out of this world, Tino Carnevale reads weeds, and guest presenter Craig Miller-Randle sets you up for success with indoor plants.

ABC Riverland

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Wednesday 10am, Saturday 9am

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WA

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Download the ABC listen app and listen to live radio streams of gardening programs across Australia.

THIS INFORMATION IS CORRECT AT THE TIME OF PRINTING BUT IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. PHOTO VIRGINIA CUMMINS

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NEXT MONTH

On sale October

12

November issue Practical ways to welcome

SMALL BIRDS plus D

PHOTO ISTOCK (RED-BROWED FINCH)

DAISIES

&

JAPANESE WINDFLOWER

the big picture

As changing light transforms the entire garden into a sundial, noticing the micro shifts is a gauge of pleasure, writes MICHAEL McCOY appropriate this, deliberately, for our pleasure, for the pleasure of simply noticing?

Shadows exaggerate pattern. Side-lit avenues of trees cast great diagonal stripes across the surrounding land, and pergolas create matrices and temporary tessellation that grab our attention long after we’ve stopped ‘seeing’ the structure that’s creating them.

Plants gather or capture light in infinite ways.

Leaves and flowers vary dramatically in their transparency, which has a curious link to their longevity. The leaves of deciduous trees, with a life span of no more than six months, are generally way more see-through than those of evergreens, which might last three years. A poppy flower, which may last only a few hours, carries a breathless, seize-the-day message in its crushed crepe paper transparency that a muscular daffodil can only dream of. In the garden, transparency is an exquisite indicator of ephemerality.

The greatest group of all light-harvesting plants – the grasses – simply sing in locations that best catch low light. A Stipa gigantea to your west, shattering the rays of the setting sun, provides 10 times the value of a Stipa gigantea to your south.

The shifting light alone means there’s change everywhere you look, at all times. By the time you’ve finished reading this, the light source will have moved, not returning to that exact position for six months. It’s what gardens are so good at – celebrating moments, upvaluing the now. GA Michael blogs at thegardenist.com.au PHOTOS ISTOCK

A

s I write, the early-morning light is cutting horizontal laser beams through the garden. Leaves glow like stained glass, and dewdrops send diamond sparkles. Long shadows stretch across the surrounding paddocks in comical exaggeration of the trees that create them.

With angles this acute, the view is changing, minute by minute, second by second, and it’s all the more mesmerising with the shifts being so micro and barely detectable.

Our outlook, directly north over our neighbours’ paddocks, is side-lit from the right in the morning, then even more dramatically side-lit from the left as the sun sets. It’s curious to think that with the same outlook in the Northern Hemisphere, we would be facing south, so the garden would be side-lit from the left in the morning, and the right in the evening.

But direction is only one of the many changes to the light that illuminates, and therefore dictates, our whole experience of our gardens. There are the micro changes according to the quality of the air – all the clarity shifts that relate to humidity, mist, fog, cloud, smoke and even smog. It’s an ever-passing, and ever-engaging, show.

I love that every garden shadow becomes a sundial. Shadows twist and turn and pivot according to the angle of the source, animating every branch or overhead structure in a minute-by-minute dance with the radiance of a distant celestial body. Why would we not