Every destination has as a cycle. Places, like people, go through changes; they evolve and grow, and as they do, they attract different kinds of visitors. Until not much more than 10 years ago, most people who visited Southeast Asia for non-business related travel did so with a backpack; luxury travel was virtually unheard of. But in the last decade, secluded beach resorts, high-end boutique hotels and stylish urban retreats have sprung up across the region, but the latest fascination is taking to the water on luxury river cruises — unsurprising in a region where waterways are a lot more common than roads. Last month saw the debut of the Aqua Mekong, the newest luxury river cruiser fitted out with all the trappings of a five-star hotel, designed to take guests to parts of Cambodia’s Tonle Sap lake and river system. Writer Nick Walton was on the inaugural voyage of the Aqua Mekong for a taste of river life with an indulgent twist. Read his story on page 92.